Marmoleum. Today it is a new step in interior design. This material is intended for laying on the floor. The technology is only developing, but there is no doubt that it will soon replace conventional linoleum and laminate. Features and advantages of this material can be considered:
- Marmoleum is very cheap because of the materials from which it is made. So faking a product is simply not profitable. You can also note its environmental friendliness, which is the most important quality for a "home" material.
- This type of coating is absolutely non-toxic, and even has an antibacterial effect. Few materials can boast of this.
At the price of marmoleum, it will cost you 1/3 cheaper than laminate - the cheapest of floor coverings. - Due to the properties of the material, you do not need to carry out additional thermal insulation of the floor. It also does not fade, swell or bend when wet. The paint does not even stick to it, and it easily carries a heavy load.
- Marmoleum will serve you for about 20 years. It does not burn and does not electrify. Can be painted in any color and give different textures. Today you can find on sale more than 100 colors and about 2000 shades to order.
- Well, one of the important qualities is ease of installation.
Weak sides
- Like any thing, marmoleum also has its drawbacks:
- The roll type of marmoleum can be twisted only once and the base to the top. When you lay it - be careful, because it has rather fragile edges.
After a certain period of time, the material tends to spread and harden. This is "on hand" for the floor, because it will not be necessary to bother too much with the seams. But look for manufacturers with a reputation and a guarantee, because if the material has been stored in a warehouse for a long time or carelessly transported, then the quality is greatly reduced. - Again, a plus for flooring can turn into a minus during transportation. Good elasticity is maintained along the entire length of the marmoleum, therefore it is unnecessary to bother with leveling the floor, the surface will turn out to be even. The material is able to cover irregularities even a third of its own thickness. These qualities also do not allow it to be used on walls and ceilings - due to its high weight and elasticity, it will simply sag.
- Another disadvantage of this coating is uneven edges after cutting. Therefore, the material is cut only in those places where it will then hide, for example, under the baseboard. You can make a pattern only from standard tiles.
Specifications
As mentioned above, marmoleum is very durable and can withstand up to 160 kg / sq. cm. The material has a thickness of 2-4 mm and weighs from 2.6 to 3.4 kg / kV. m.
There are three classes:
- 41-43 - this type is the most expensive and is used in the appropriate premises. The decorative coating reaches a thickness of 3 mm and is designed for 100 thousand advances daily for as long as 5 years. It can even be used in places such as airports.
- 31-33 - more stable under static pressure. Not as well suited for alternating loads as the previous one. The thickness of the top layer is up to 2.5 mm.
- 21-23 - This view is for general use. It can be used in most types of rooms in your home. It has a slightly smaller thickness and is cheaper.
From these data, we conclude that brand 21-23 is enough for the house, because it is the cheapest, but it does not sacrifice quality to other brands, it simply withstands lower loads. Also, its small thickness becomes a plus at home, due to long static loads (cabinet legs), which will not leave their mark so noticeably.
On sale you can find this material:
- In the form of rolls 2 meters wide. Keep in mind that rolled marmoleum is rolled up only once. Working with him in an apartment is very inconvenient and requires a team of specialists and equipment.
- Square tiles 50x50 and 30x30 cm. Laid on the glue.
- Rectangular tiles 90x30 cm. Installation is similar.
Laying process
If you are going to use tools for laminate, then be careful, because marmoleum is a fragile material at the edges. It is not so easy to cut or trim the edges, so have a rubber mallet and a hook clamp handy.
The qualities of the material allow it to be laid on top of the old coating. But if it has serious irregularities, or “walks”, then it is better to remove it from putting marmoleum on bare concrete. At the same time, it is not necessary to pre-isolate the floor with any materials - the marmoleum itself is quite enough.
It is also better to put tiles on the old coating using glue. Since the panels will not fit well when fitted.
The basis
When installing the coating on concrete, take care of its even surface. It is not necessary to perfectly align, but grind large protrusions with a machine, and seal the cavities with mortar or putty. Of course, you can lay a plastic pillow for laminate under the marmoleum, but it will cost more. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner.
Size adjustment
To get started, spread tiles or sheets of marmoleum on the floor of your room. At the same time, add a gap of 10-15 mm from the wall in all places. This is an important point, and it is needed to avoid arching the future coating from temperature and humidity changes. From above, these gaps will be closed with a plinth. We cut the entire last row of tiles (sheets) with an electric jigsaw.
Laying
Stages of work when laying on a concrete screed.
In a rectangular room, start from the short side. Putting a rail wrapped in a film close to it to avoid sticking. Now smear the place under the tile with a snake. Use special glue or building silicone. Attach a marmoleum tile and move it tightly to the bar.
We wait for the glue to dry according to the instructions in the manufacturer's instructions.
seams
Don't panic if the edge of the tile cracks. This is easy to fix later. In this case, a compound for linoleum is used. After installing all the elements, evaluate the required amount of funds.
You can also experiment with a decorative moment in styling. To do this, use matches with cut off heads. Insert two at the ends, between the marmolium tiles. Seal all seams after work.
Attention! Do not subject the material to mechanical stress before laying, do not drop or bend it. All this will end in cracks.
In one of the previous materials, we have already considered the features of such a finishing material as marmoleum and clarified all its advantages and disadvantages. Today we would like to acquaint the reader with the procedure for laying the presented flooring and reveal the nuances of the work.
Preparation for work
As mentioned earlier, marmoleum is identical in its visual characteristics to ordinary linoleum, but unlike it, it is produced not only in the form of rolls, but is also made in the form of tiles (like PVC) or panels with a lock joint (similar to laminate). In view of this, laying marmoleum with your own hands is somewhat different depending on the material used.
Foundation preparation process
Depends on the base material. So, if you plan to lay marmoleum on wooden surfaces, then you should first make sure of the mechanical strength of the base (damaged floorboards, cracks, drops are not allowed). And after that, make the final leveling of the floor by sheathing it with OSB panels or plywood sheets.
When it is planned to lay marmoleum on a concrete floor, you should make sure that there are no potholes, cracks, chips and, if necessary, level the base with a cement-sand mortar or self-leveling mixture.
In addition to the procedure for preparing the base at the initial stage, it is advisable to mark and cut the material. Why panels or tiles need to be laid out at the place of intended installation and mark control points.
When performing these operations, it is necessary to take into account certain features:
Marmoleum belongs to the group of natural finishing materials, which is why it has the ability to change linear dimensions with temperature changes. That is, when laying it, it is necessary to provide for compensation gaps between the material and the wall (10 - 15 mm), which will subsequently be covered with a finishing plinth.
Mechanical processing of marmoleum (cutting) is associated with certain difficulties, which is why in the process of work it is desirable to minimize the number of cuts as much as possible and place them in visually hidden places.
Marmoleum laying technology
Depending on the type of material used (rolls, tiles or panels), the method of laying the material also varies.
Rolled marmoleum is laid by analogy with linoleum, however, unlike the synthetic counterpart, marmoleum is not allowed to be rolled into a roll more than 1 time, and this can only be done with the face up. This circumstance is connected with the fragility of the finish, in particular its end zones. That is, the material is simply rolled out in the room and it is trimmed around the perimeter, after which the matured marmoleum is pressed to the floor with the help of skirting boards and decorative thresholds.
Marmoleum in the form of tiles (50x50cm, 30x30cm) can be laid using two methods: with and without pattern selection. Moreover, in the first case, the installation of the finishing material should begin from the middle of the room, gradually moving to its edges. Whereas in the second option (for standard-shaped rooms), it is best to start laying from the wall, with the smallest dimensions.
The very algorithm of the work involves the following actions:
- At the place of laying the first row (near the wall), a base rail is set - a beacon (10 - 15 mm thick);
- A specialized adhesive composition is applied (in the form of a snake) to the wrong side of the finishing material;
- The tile is matched with the beacon rail and simultaneously pressed against the base base;
- All tiles of the first row are laid in the same way, after which the whole process is repeated again (until the work is completed);
- After the adhesive has dried, the inter-joint voids can be filled with a special grout of the appropriate color shade.
Panel marmoleum is laid by analogy with a standard laminate. However, unlike this material, the joining of marmoleum panels is more difficult, due to its flexibility and fragility. Therefore, adjacent elements should be connected at a strictly defined angle, due to which the most high-quality engagement of the floorboards is ensured.
To ensure a given angle of inclination, it is best to use wooden templates with an oblique cut (the angle of inclination of which will allow the marmoleum panels to be positioned at the most optimal angle during installation).
Such equipment is placed under the free edge of the trim and fixed in the groove of the previous row. Well, in order for the adjacent panel to close, the bar is simply removed and the marmoleum takes the desired position.
In order for the installation of a natural floor finish to not cause any particular difficulties, it is advisable to follow some recommendations in the process of performing work:
- Tapping marmoleum (for high-quality joining) must be performed through special spacers and using rubber hammers.
- For cutting marmoleum, it is best to use a hacksaw or a jigsaw with an appropriate file (fine tooth, reverse direction).
- Marmoleum should be purchased only in specialized shopping centers that guarantee the originality of the product.
- In order to ensure a good fit of the material from the base bases, it is necessary to remove all dust and construction debris in advance with a vacuum cleaner.
Not so long ago, a new material for flooring appeared - marmoleum. What is it? Essentially, this natural linoleum but much better quality. Their main difference lies in the fact that this material consists of natural and environmentally friendly components. It is made from resin needles, jute, cork, using linseed oil and natural dyes. This is undoubtedly a huge plus of this product. But before making a decision: apply marmoleum in the process of building and repairing with your own hands or not, you need to weigh the pros and cons.
2. Benefits of marmoleum coating.
The high strength of this material. Able to withstand a load equal to 160 kg per 1m 2. This means that even very heavy furniture does not push it to the point of dents.
The solvent and various other chemical solutions do no harm to the marmoleum.
Spilled liquids of various origins leave no traces and are easily removed from the surface. marmoleum.
This material is stained to its full depth, which ensures the preservation of the appearance even with its gradual erasure.
Coating marmoleum It has antibacterial properties due to the presence of linseed oil in its composition.
Does not cause allergies.
It does not burn and is almost impossible to burn through, except at ultra-high temperatures.
Marmoleum refers to fairly good sound insulators.
Ecological purity of marmoleum.
Consists of natural ingredients.
3. Disadvantages of marmoleum coating
One of the main disadvantages of marmoleum is its fragility, especially at the edges.
Fairly heavy material. Again, this applies more to the roll type.
By the way, if you use such a marmoleum, then you need to contact the specialists, because it will be problematic to lay it with your own hands. Since this requires special equipment.
When cutting, uneven and ugly edges are obtained. But if, to cut off only those places that will then be covered with skirting boards, then there is no tragedy in this.
May deform over time due to spreading. Therefore, when buying, be sure to check the integrity of the packaging and the expiration date of the product!
First time off cover marmoleum an unpleasant odor is emitted. However, it disappears after a while.
Such a floor will not be a cheap pleasure.
Now let's talk about how to produce laying marmoleum with your own hands. There is nothing complicated in this process. Naturally, we only mean marmoleum tiled (there are sizes of 30 × 30 or 50 × 50 cm) or panel type (90 × 30 cm in size). By the way, the technology itself is very similar to laying a cork floor, which we talked about how to lay.
Stages marmoleum laying:
1. To begin with, as always in the process of laying flooring with your own hands, you need to prepare its base. If the old floor is even, without depressions and potholes, then natural linoleum can be laid immediately without prior preparation. The main thing is that the surface is clean. If there are any irregularities and the floor is wooden, then it is usually leveled by covering it with plywood, OSB or something similar. If the floor is concrete, then you can pour a self-leveling screed. The most important thing is to ensure that the surface is even, in order to avoid damage to the material in the future.
2. Since the coating marmoleum has a tendency to deform due to temperature changes, namely, it becomes longer when it rises, and when lowered, it takes its shape again, you need to leave the so-called temperature gap around the entire perimeter of the room. As a rule, special spacers should be included in the kit for this. This gap will then be closed with a plinth.
Fig.1 Spacers when laying marmoleum
3. Marmoleum laying starts from the center if some pattern is provided. If not, we stack from any corner in order.
4. Joining plates natural linoleum takes place in a special castle. Since this is done at a certain angle, it will be convenient to use beveled bars for the stop, which are removed immediately after joining the plates.
Fig. 2 Bar covered with marmoleum
Fig.3 Bar
5. If you need to knock on the plates marmoleum, do it through some kind of spacer, and not directly through the material. As a percussion tool, use a rubber mallet or mallet.
Fig. 4 We knock the plate through the spacer
6. Trimming marmoleum is done with an electric jigsaw or a saw with a fine tooth.
Fig. 5 We cut the plate
5. To recap
In general, as you can see, there is nothing complicated in the process marmoleum laying with your own hands. The main thing is to level the floor and work carefully with the material. If you have any questions, write in the comments. good luck to you do-it-yourself construction and repair!
Good afternoon Gal!
Marmoleum is a product made from cork and jute. Natural resin from vegetable oils is used as a binder for these materials. The use of natural materials allows, as a result, to obtain an environmentally friendly product that does not have a harmful effect on humans and animals. The manufacturing technology of marmoleum is quite old; analogues of this material were used in the decoration of houses as far back as the 17th century. Since then, significant changes have been made to the technology, but its essence and composition of the material (its basis) have remained the same. Unlike linoleum, marmoleum has greater rigidity and is not pressed through in places where furniture and other heavy objects are installed. This allows softer materials to be used as a substrate for marmoleum. Marmoleum has the following requirements for the base - it must be dry, clean and even.
The technology of laying marmoleum is similar to laying linoleum, but there are some features. Home - marmoleum does not tolerate moisture. Therefore, this material is not used for finishing the bathroom.
Due to moisture intolerance, a clean concrete base for marmoleum is not used, as condensation may form on the concrete. To protect the material from condensation, polyethylene is placed between concrete and marmoleum.
If marmoleum is laid on an old wooden floor that has many defects, for example, delamination of boards, protruding nails, potholes from furniture during prolonged use, then plywood is used as a leveling substrate.
If the plank floor is in relatively good condition, then its preparation is limited to careful puttying of cracks and various irregularities.
In addition, jute, linen and mixed substrates made from natural fibers are used.
In addition to leveling, they warm the base well. The marmoleum coating with such a substrate has a feeling of a “warm” floor. In linen, experts note good ventilation qualities, high strength, resistance to the appearance of mold fungi. Jute fibers specially treated with the appropriate composition prevent combustion.
Good heat and sound insulation is provided by a cork substrate. Cork is a natural material and therefore environmentally friendly, odorless and does not cause allergic reactions in the body. Mold does not appear under it, fungus does not start. It is impregnated with a fire-resistant composition and therefore guarantees fire safety. But cork is relatively expensive, but at the same time more durable than other types of substrates. When choosing a cork, it is recommended to give preference to harder varieties. Many people think that it is still better to use it under a laminate.
Often, a porous polymer (isolon, penofizol), resembling foam rubber, is used as a substrate. Its main advantages: low cost and ease of installation. The disadvantages, due to which many experts do not advise its use, include its crushing under load, low strength and very low thermal insulation properties.
What is marmoleum? This is a new material for flooring, the production of which is rapidly developing. In the future, marmoleum is likely to replace all types of flooring, except for hardwood parquet made of fine wood, which will remain as a luxury item.
Such an explosive spread of marmoleum is due to its truly outstanding advantages:
- Marmoleum is absolutely environmentally friendly, it is made only from natural ingredients, and they are so cheap that a fake is not economically justified.
- Marmoleum is non-toxic, does not cause allergies, and in addition it also has bactericidal properties.
- Marmoleum is cheap: Marmoleum flooring costs 15-30% less than the cheapest of today's materials - laminate.
- A marmoleum floor does not require additional insulation and thermal insulation: the material itself has insulating properties.
- Marmoleum is resistant and hygienic: it does not fade, does not swell when wet and does not warp, withstands a huge local load, even spilled paint does not stick to it. The warranty period for marmoleum is 20 years, but judging by the structure and manufacturing technology, in the future it will be increased to 100 years.
- Marmoleum does not accumulate static electricity and is not combustible: a cigarette butt thrown on it dies out without leaving a trace, and it is possible to burn through marmoleum only with autogenous.
- Marmoleum is decorative: it can be painted in a variety of colors, textured to look like wood, stone, etc. Marmoleum is currently produced in 100 basic colors and more than 2000 shades.
- And, finally, marmoleum is extremely easy to work with: laying marmoleum with your own hands can literally be done by a preschooler.
Video: marmoleum, its safety and basic styling points
A bit of history
How did such a wonderful material come into being? This took several centuries.
Even in ancient times, fabrics were impregnated with oil to increase their durability. By the 17th century in Europe, jute appeared in everyday life - a very coarse and durable burlap made from fibers of plants of the genus Corchorus linden families: Indian flax, Calcutta hemp, tossa jute. At the same time, oiled jute fabric, coated with various hardening compounds, began to be used for flooring. The prehistory of marmoleum ended in 1863 with the British patent No. 209/1860 for linoleum, issued to Frederick Walton. In 1864, mass production of linoleum began.
Walton managed to develop a very cheap and fairly durable top coat based on linseed oil, pine resin (resin), wood flour, natural dyes and chalk. After the Second World War, natural linoleum replaced PVC-based linoleum, but the global oil crisis and the expansion of environmental awareness revived the demand for natural linoleum, which contributed to the improvement of its manufacturing technology.
By the beginning of the 1990s, even cheaper and better substitutes for linseed oil and resin were found, obtained from highly productive tropical crops. At the same time, a third, intermediate layer of pressed cork chips was introduced into the linoleum structure. The finishing touch was the use in the production of linoleum technology of hot dry pressing, developed for the production of MDF.
The coatings obtained in this way went on sale under the general name marmoleum. In fact, marmoleum is natural linoleum, brought to the limit of its perfection.
Marmoleum is especially good for children's rooms.
Disadvantages of marmoleum
Complete perfection does not exist, so marmoleum has its drawbacks.
- Firstly, marmoleum is fragile, especially at the edges, and certain rules must be observed when working with it; see below. You can roll the marmoleum into a roll once with the base out.
- Secondly, marmoleum spreads and hardens a little over time. This is good for the floor: you do not need to carefully close the seams, they will converge themselves. But when buying marmoleum, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions for this particular brand and check the shelf life. If boxes of tiles or rolls were carelessly handled during transportation, some of the material may be cracked, so you need to look for a seller with a guarantee.
- Thirdly, marmoleum is heavy and at the same time retains residual plasticity along the layers for a long time. For the floor, this is again good: no need for careful leveling of the base; marmoleum will cover irregularities of a quarter or even a third of its thickness, and its surface will remain flat. But it is impossible to use marmoleum for wall decoration, and even more so for the ceiling: the coating will “float” under its own weight. Marmoleum is exclusively floor covering.
- Fourthly, marmoleum is poorly cut and it is impossible to achieve a smooth, even cut, like on a laminate or MDF. Therefore, marmoleum is cut only along the walls to size, where the cut is covered with a plinth. That is, the decorative possibilities of marmoleum during its independent laying are limited by laying out a pattern from standard tiles.
Characteristics, classification, sizes
The technical characteristics of marmoleum have actually already been described. It remains to be added that it can withstand a load of 160 kg / sq. without permanent deformation. cm (!), its specific gravity is 2.6 - 3.4 kg / sq. m, and the total thickness is 2-4 mm, depending on the class.
Marmoleum is produced in the following classes:
- 41-43 - the upper decorative layer with a thickness of more than 3 mm. Withstands up to 100 thousand attacks per day for 5 years. Designed for public spaces with a large flow of visitors; for example, major international airports.
- 31-33 - industrial. The thickness of the decorative layer is up to 2.5 mm. It holds alternating loads worse than 41-43, but it is more resistant to a static load.
- 21-23 - general purpose. It differs from the industrial one only in a thinner coating (up to 2 mm) and in price - it is cheaper.
Conclusion: do not buy the thickest and most expensive marmoleum for your home. From the legs of concentrated loads: cabinets, aquarium stands, holes may form in it over time. Buy the cheapest one for yourself.
Marmoleum sizes are as follows:
- Rolls 2 m wide. Rolled marmoleum is not suitable for self-laying - to handle it, you need a loader, a crane and a team of experienced riggers. Once the roll is rolled out, it is no longer possible to roll it back. Due to the heaviness and fragility of the material, it is extremely inconvenient to work with long strips in an apartment.
- Tiles 50x50 cm and 30x30 cm. Laid with adhesive like PVC or ceramic tiles.
- Panels 90x30 cm. Laid like tiles.
Marmoleum laying
Tool
When laying marmolium, laminate tools must be used carefully: the edges of the tiles or panels are fragile. It is better to stock up on a wooden or rubber hammer (mallet) and a rule (clamp-hook) with a wide, at least 150 mm, hook. The rest of the tools are normal.
For previous coverage
Marmoleum can be laid directly on the previous floor covering with any mounting adhesive. But, if the old floor is playing or it has been trampled to the cavities, then the previous coating must be removed and the marmoleum should be laid on bare concrete. There is no need to worry about heat / sound insulation - marmoleum itself is an excellent insulator.
Marmoleum tiles on the previous coating are laid on the glue end-to-end. It is undesirable to use panels - on an old rough floor, they can get stuck when fitting.
Foundation preparation
The concrete base or cement-sand screed under the marmolium, if there are noticeable protrusions on it, must be leveled. Be sure to remove sharp protrusions with a height of more than 1.5-2 mm. This can be done with a drill or a grinder in a bowl-shaped circle on a stone. If the cup accidentally crashes into concrete - it's okay, the cavity can be repaired with cement mortar or starting putty. After leveling, the dust must be swept away, the residues collected with a vacuum cleaner, then sprinkled with water and swept again.
Option "for the lazy", but more expensive: cover the base with a plastic pillow under the laminate. In any case, no pre-treatment of the base with a bituminous primer, etc. not required.
Marmoleum for offices, on which the company's symbols are applied, is gaining particular popularity.
Material cutting
- We measure how many solid tiles or panels will lie across the width of the room; then - how many rows will lie in length. At the same time, we take into account a gap of 15-30 mm around the perimeter; it will close with a plinth. The gap is needed so that, due to temperature and plastic deformations of the coating, it does not swell over time.
- We cut along the length of the remainder of the whole with an electric jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, the number of tiles / panels equal to the number of transverse rows.
Example: room in terms of 4x6 m; covered with panels. The remainder of the whole 400 - (90x4 \u003d 360) \u003d 40 cm. 600/30 \u003d 20 rows come out along the length. Cut into 20 pieces of 36 cm long (36x30 cm).
When laying with a comb, with an offset of the transverse seams, the cutting ends there. If you want to lay out the remainder of the whole evenly around the perimeter, each piece must be cut in half again along the length. In the example - you get 40 pieces of 18x30 cm.
Laying process
How to lay marmoleum on concrete? Very simple:
- Close to the far short wall, we lay a 15-30 mm rail wrapped in a thin plastic film. The film will not allow the rail to stick from accidental glue drips. We lay the same rail along the left long wall; if you are left-handed, then along the right.
- We start laying from the far left corner (from the right - for left-handers). In place of the future tile, we apply assembly glue, building silicone or mastic for linoleum with a snake. We lay the tile, push it tightly into the corner. If necessary, use the rule and a mallet.
- We lay out the transverse rows row by row until the entire area is filled. We are waiting for the glue to set, as indicated in the instructions for it. That's all.
Explanation: if you put it with a comb, then start the rows alternately from a solid panel, then from a cut one. When laying out the remainder of the whole around the perimeter, each row begins and ends with trimming.
