Bath is a real panacea for diseases. Bath procedures improve blood circulation, thereby accelerating metabolic processes. But for comfort in the bath, you need an appropriate microclimate. The optimal ratio of temperature and humidity is 60/60. At the same time, higher temperature and humidity levels cause tangible discomfort. And the lack of humidity makes the soaring procedure unpleasant. Therefore, many lovers of the Russian bath are wondering how to raise the humidity in it.
How to make your stay comfortable
The Russian bath requires knowledge and the ability to bathe: in order for the steam in the bath to be “light”, you must be a master of bathing
There can be many reasons for the lack of humidity in the steam room. The most common of these is the wrong selection of the furnace. Modern stoves are designed for baths or saunas. The second option involves dry heat at a high temperature. As professionals say, if you increase the humidity in a hot bath (at a temperature of more than 70 ° C), you can simply cook. If you have a problem with the furnace, then it is more expedient to change it.
Some advise putting a brick screen around the stove to absorb some of the heat. In this case, to achieve the desired level of humidity, you will have to pour a large amount of water on the heater.
The ideal ratio of temperature and humidity in a Russian steam room is obtained when a heat-intensive heater is made of brick.
Another reason is the dry wood of the walls and ceiling. Dry wood quickly absorbs moisture. To prevent this from happening, pour water over the walls and ceiling during the heating of the steam room. While the stove is heating, the wood will absorb some of the water and the rest will evaporate, increasing the humidity.
An unpressurized water tank attached to the stove will significantly increase the humidity. The water in the tank will heat up and evaporate. The amount of steam depends on the area of the open hole in the tank - the larger it is, the stronger the evaporation.
You can put a metal basin with water on the shelves in the steam room, which will evaporate during the soaring process.
Finally, before taking bath procedures, you can install a humidifier or steam generator in the steam room.
This is how professionals advise to increase the humidity in the steam room to the desired level.
Everyone knows that the bath is very good for health. In various types of baths and saunas (Finnish, Russian, Turkish, Roman, sports or other), a certain and individual level of humidity and temperature is maintained. In working steam rooms, high humidity in the bath is a necessity and a norm. However, steam and moisture are destructive to the structure, interior coatings and woodwork if the sauna room is not properly or insufficiently ventilated. When excess moisture is not removed from the room, from corners, places where air moves little, or it is noticeable that fungus and mold will soon appear on the walls - a clear sign of an unacceptable unhealthy microclimate in the bath. And one more nuance: if the bath is not used, its room must be dry, otherwise you will not even notice how the room has become a breeding ground for diseases and fungus.
The norms of the microclimate in the bath
In different types of baths, different ratios of air temperature and humidity levels are maintained, and it is important to know these norms in order to constantly maintain climate indicators. The healing effect, comfort and well-being of people in the bath depends on this. The beneficial effect of the bath is based on the deep heating of the body and the removal of toxins from the body. The presence of steam in the air improves its thermal conductivity and accelerates the heating of the skin and the body as a whole.
Microclimate standards for different types of baths
Russian bath - a steam bath with a humidity level of up to 60-65% and a temperature of 45 to 70 ° C, with a dressing room and a steam room.
Hot Russian bath - the temperature in the steam room can rise to 90 and above ° C, and the humidity can be maintained at a level of up to 35%.
The Turkish bath or hammam is similar to the Roman baths with ceramic decoration, it is distinguished by a mild microclimate, the highest content of steam in the air - humidity up to 90-100% with a temperature of up to 45 ° C. Usually this is a complex of rooms with different temperatures.
Finnish bath - a sauna with high air heating (up to 100 and above ° C) and not very high humidity - about 10%. Virtually no vapor in the air. It consists of a large dressing room for relaxation, a steam room and a shower room.
You can also name Japanese water baths, Roman baths are national baths and are rare in our country. There are also special sports saunas that maintain extreme humidity. They are designed for hardening athletes.
The above indicators must be maintained regularly and each type has its own. It is impossible to acquire, for example, a Finnish bath and not monitor the humidity level so that it reaches 40% - then this is no longer a Finnish bath, but a place unhealthy. Many people wonder how to control the moisture content in the air? Maintaining the temperature is not a problem, here is the humidity ...
For this, a special device has been created - an air dryer with a built-in hygrometer, and only he can help regulate the level of moisture. The hygrometer built into it will regularly measure moisture indicators and give a signal to the dehumidifier so that it either starts to dry the air or stops exposure when it reaches the goal. The humidity level you need is set in the settings as optimal, and then the device independently controls the environment you need. This process will help you keep your bath in good condition. You just need to understand that you can’t put a dehumidifier in the bath itself, because the conditions are not at all intended for technology! The dehumidifier is installed in the dressing room, near the exit from the steam room. You can read in more detail what an air dryer is.
Ventilation in the bath is an obligatory aspect of any bath, because it is the key to a healthy microclimate. Natural ventilation is arranged most often, but mechanical ventilation is necessary for the constant use of saunas or baths. But ventilation will not be able to fully optimize the level of humidity. The use of ventilation and a dehumidifier will be an ideal tandem for a healthy microclimate in your “steam room”.
Any bath or sauna is a gift to our health! But, if traces of exposure to high humidity appear in it, wooden shelves and walls swell and collapse, wiring and metal parts rust, the tile becomes moldy and falls off, and the smell of dampness cannot be eliminated - this is already a serious problem and must be resolutely dealt with. There can be no talk of health in such a bath. If you do not deal with dampness for a certain time, repairs will be required at a substantial cost.
What causes violations of the microclimate in the bath
- Incorrect or inefficient ventilation in the bath can lead to stagnant zones, the accumulation of dampness, which makes it possible for mold and mildew to develop on the walls or on the wooden finish of the bath.
- The unprofessional design of the bath, the lack of waterproofing or insulation of the foundation of the building lead to cooling of the floors, the appearance of condensation and constant dampness.
- Mechanical ventilation did not work, vents were closed, there was no air circulation - dampness and the ensuing "unhealthy" consequences are guaranteed to appear.
- The humidity level is not controlled during use and when the room is empty. It is important not only to monitor the level of moisture, but also to constantly influence the optimal performance. Without this, dampness will be a constant causative agent of problems.
How to remove dampness in the bath
1.
Open all dampers and doors, ventilate all rooms of the bath after use until completely dry. But this can be long and inconvenient if the bath is used in the winter, and is suitable only if it is used from time to time.
2.
Ventilation system. If there is forced ventilation, turn on the exhaust fan and ventilate the room to the desired level of the hygrometer reading. Check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts, remove debris and dust in places where fungus or mold can develop. Treat the channels with antiseptic agents.
Humidity, temperature and ventilation are three interrelated and interdependent characteristics of any bath that determine the comfort and benefits of the soaring procedure. Raising one of them requires changing the others. By varying these values, an optimal microclimate for steamers is achieved.
Normally, the air humidity in a Russian bath is 80-100%, and the temperature is 50-60 degrees Celsius. Such high humidity is perfectly tolerated by the human body.
When does it need to be reduced?
If the stove is incorrectly selected or installed, the temperature regime in the steam room is violated. When the temperature changes more than the specified norm in the Russian bath, the steam becomes “heavy” and intense heat is felt. This happens if the power of the furnace does not correspond to the volume of the steam room. When operating metal stoves with a tank, sometimes there are complaints about an increase in humidity at low temperatures in the steam room (40-45 degrees). Water boils early, when the bath has not yet warmed up.
Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to choose a suitable furnace. An increase in humidity in the bath is possible due to inadequate air exchange.
Ventilation in the log bath was not specially thought out, since the humidity in the street and in the steam room was set approximately the same. The issue was resolved by the building itself. Now there are various modifications to the construction of baths, and ventilation planning should be given special attention. If the bath is already built, sometimes it is necessary to install a forced fan to eliminate this problem.
There is a method to reduce the accumulation of condensate on the ceiling and walls in the bath (and, as a result, increase their service life), as well as to ensure the creation of an adequate steam pocket.
Hot air collects under the ceiling and settles on it. The tree first absorbs moisture, and then stops, and a so-called steam pocket is created. For adequate steam production, the ceiling must be heat-retaining.
To do this, at the construction stage of the bath, the following design should be formed.
When the walls have already been erected, reflective heat-insulating material - penofol - is sewn on them and on the ceiling with a construction stapler. It overlaps in a certain way: one edge overlaps the other to create a continuous layer. Then wide bars are nailed to which eurolining will be attached. As a result, an air gap is created between the inner and outer wall and ceiling cladding.
The blower of the furnace is mounted below the floor level, and the concrete is poured with a slope towards the sewer. Logs are installed in the form of a platform, waterproofing material is laid under them, and floorboards are laid on top. An air gap is also formed under the top layer of the floor.
How does this design work?
Hot steam passes from the room through the eurolining and lingers between it and the penofol layer, creating a steam pocket. When condensation forms due to the temperature difference, it flows down to the floor along the foil. The blower door opens and moist air escapes through the chimney.
So, high humidity in the bath will be comfortable if, at the design stage, you choose the right model and size of the stove and think over ventilation. In order for the bath to last longer and create the right steam pocket, you need to create air gaps in the ceiling, walls and floor.
Well ................., I feel not to stir up revelations, then I take the fire upon myself, listen and correct.
The beginning is completely banal, I flooded it and left to do business, the door in the steam room is closed and only it is heated, and I don’t pour any water on the walls, but I turn on the dropper (0.7 liters) as soon as the gun heats up to the desired temperatures, I pour wormwood into the flavor and I leave again. When the temperature in the steam room reaches 45 C, I open the door to the sink and the rest room. My opinion is that volley heating is more effective than gradual. For some time everything stays that way, the stove is heated, all rooms are heated, a dropper with flavoring gives just a crazy wormwood spirit . (For comparison, when pies are baked in the oven and opened for some reason, a hot wave of baked muffin arises, thick and exciting, about the same I experience when I enter the KO from the street and the wave of warm wormwood just intoxicates.). I understand that everything has warmed up and now you can start preparing the steam room. The door is closed and the surface of the walls and ceiling (aspen lining) is sprayed with hot water, the dropper opens a little more. I cover the top row of vents with a bandage. oven holes (Baby) and leave for a short time, then everything repeats, firewood is laid, walls and ceiling are sprayed, a dropper is added and a humidifier is filled (working name) this is a board with inclined blind grooves, it contains a lot of water and very quickly it gives. For reference, I spray with an ordinary flower sprayer for 2 liters, pump it up and water it. It leaves 3 - 4 volumes,
When I understand that the bath is on the way, I go to enjoy it.
After this moment, I transfer the stove to "hungry" combustion, this is when all the air is blocked and the firewood simply smolders.
The temperature is 45 - 47 degrees, the humidity is such that when you lie down on the canopy, sweat appears very quickly, and in the beginning it’s not even sweat, but condensate, which pleasantly tickles the body as it drains. You can lie in this paradise for an infinitely long time and immediately pull you to sleep. I get wet with sleep like a border guard at the post and get awesome pleasure.
Then a shower with soap, a TV chair, tea - kvass. The second entry is almost the same, but first I spray the walls again, a humidifier. The temperature is 47 - 49, everything happens without the participation of a broom, it still hangs dry in KO. and by feeling.
Finally, there is a desire to take a steam bath, the temperature by that time is 55 - 57 degrees, the humidity is sufficient. A broom is in the pipe, a couple of ladles of water on top and it is ready, and the spirit is awesome, like birch, like Oak, though not long. By the way, in a humid steam room, the smell wormwood is felt weaker than in dry and hot.
The broom is ready, the client is warmed up and the ritual begins, sweat is no longer from the condensation of steam, but real, a ladle or steam on the heater, you scoop up fresh steam as much as possible and look after yourself until the body tells you what to do next, and then shower, exit to breathe the street, drink kvass-tea, sit in an armchair by TV.
In short, I spray the walls before, during that and together with the supply. In general, getting humidity at 45 degrees is easier than at 56 - 60. Therefore, I try to re-moisten the steam room from the very beginning, so that later it would keep the norm.
And now about the humidifier, a board, 40 kA with grooves (I already wrote about it), 250 grams of water fits in and evaporates it very quickly. There is a desire to make a humidifier with an area of 1 sq. m and look at the result.
What am I doing wrong?
It is best to spend time for the body and peace of mind in the winter in the steam room. But which one to choose? How to properly set the temperature there in order to really improve your health?
Comparison of steam rooms (temperature, humidity)
There are many types of different pairs. Almost every nation has contributed something of its own to the art of washing the body using steam. The most common today are the Russian steam bath, Turkish hammam and Finnish sauna. New infrared saunas are gaining great popularity. Below is more information about how many degrees are in the bath, sauna and hammam and what is the maximum temperature in the sauna.
Of course, this is the optimal temperature suitable for almost all categories of people. Bath attendants with experience, as a rule, prefer hotter. The comfortable temperature for them in the Russian bath lies in the range of 90-120 degrees Celsius. Arriving at a public bath, where, as a rule, these seasoned attendants gather, be prepared to meet just such a temperature.
Russian steam bath
The Russian banya is called a steam room for a reason. Its great advantage is the absence of a big difference between the humidity in the bath and outside the window. The optimum temperature in the bath of 60-90 degrees is maintained by a heater or stove, on which water is poured to achieve the desired level of humidity.
The optimum temperature in the Russian bath lies in the range of 60-90 degrees. Bath attendants with experience can feel comfortable at temperatures up to 100-120 degrees Celsius.
The Russian bath is the only steam room with such an interesting tradition as massage with a broom. The temperature and humidity in the Russian bath are considered optimal for removing toxins in the absence of a strong load on the body. For one visit, you can stay in the Russian steam room 2-4 times for 15-20 minutes.
Finnish sauna
The Finnish sauna is not at all the same as the Russian bath. The temperature here is much higher - about 70-110 degrees, and the humidity is much lower - 5-15%.
It is optimal for one session in the Finnish sauna to visit the steam room no more than 2 times for 5-10 minutes. A break of at least half an hour.
It is believed that the temperature in the sauna is normal - 90-100 degrees, but if you feel unwell, then get out of there as soon as possible. It just doesn't suit you that dry air. Try the Russian steam room or hammam.
