Warming of the house from rounded logs from the inside. Log house insulation. Wall caulking process. Creation of a ventilated facade. Insulation work from the inside. Extruded expanded polystyrene

Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate the level of humidity. On every corner we hear that a wooden wall with a thickness of only 240 mm has the same thermal conductivity as Brick wall 1 m thick. Impressive, right? But there are situations when they built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first serious cold weather, they realized that it was cool in the house and drafts were walking. Then we seriously think about the insulation of the building, even to the detriment of beauty. But there may be more banal situations: they bought an old wooden house, which is already rather “worn out” and requires serious measures for warming. So the serious question arises, how to perform insulation log house what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.

Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory

What are the most common problems owners face? log houses who complain that it is cold in winter? Firstly, these are drafts in the rooms. Secondly, it blows on the legs. Thirdly, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. Fourth, the walls are too cold. And many related nuances, from which it is concluded that the house must be urgently insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's see what happens in the room when it is heated.

Imagine that we have a log house that we heat with some kind of heat source. What we have involved in heat transfer: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Recall the school physics course. Heating up from the heat source, the air rushes up - to the ceiling. Resting against the surface of the ceiling, it spreads over it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get the ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Further, the air flow reaches the walls and descends along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools much faster, and its speed increases. Now the air has already reached the floor, having fairly accelerated, and rushes along it at such a speed that an illusion of such a strong cold draft is created, as if there is no floor at all, and you are standing right on the snow.

If you place a heat source near the inner walls, as is usually done by heating with a fireplace or a portable radiator, then the heat transfer rate increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that we ourselves are to blame for the fact that it is cold in the house.

No wonder there are norms that heating radiators should be located under the windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are quite inert. If a heat source is located near outer wall, then the air will rise up, then again fall on the walls, but now not at such a speed and will not cool so quickly. After all internal walls quite warm, so passing them, the air will not be cooled too much. And descending along the outer walls, it will rest against the heat source again, where it will heat up and rise up. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures retain heat better, since it is accumulated rather than wasted.

What you need to check to eliminate unnecessary heat loss:

Ceiling. The very first outpost to check for leaks, as up to 70% of heat can escape through it. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor to retain heat inside the room.
Walls. The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Not right installed windows and doors are the scourge of log houses. Through them, the lion's share of heat can go away, without even having time to heat the room. Immediately from the radiator and into the gap under / above the window. Plus, do not forget to check whether the walls are carefully caulked, maybe cracks have already formed somewhere.
Floor. The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in a standard way. Also for the winter it is worth reducing the ventilation of the underground, blocking most of the air.

I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house better, it is possible to equip the house with “warm floors”, in addition to existing system heating. Then warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool more slowly.

By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with a cold harsh winter, but low humidity, walls 200 - 240 mm thick are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even if the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a log house project so that it does not hurt excruciatingly later.

What materials can be used to insulate a log house

The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking walls, and insulating windows and door frames and floor insulation. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures will be needed.

Taking into account the fact that log houses are built in order to create a dwelling from natural environmentally friendly materials, it would be foolish to use polystyrene for insulation. Then all meaning is lost.

For attic insulation log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose cotton), seaweed, straw. In extreme cases, you can insulate mineral wool.

Caulker walls produced only with natural materials: moss, tow, hemp, jute, flax-based tape heaters and jute. The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.

For wooden floor insulation on logs you can use natural backfill materials, and you can mineral wool in rolls. And here concrete floor will require a denser material, fit polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork and basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg/m3.

If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was chosen incorrectly, maybe the house is already very old, or maybe the heating was calculated incorrectly, and you decided that without such a procedure as warming the walls of a log house , you can not do, then you should know some of the nuances.

The material that can be used to insulate log walls should have the following properties:

To be vapor-permeable on a par with wood or to a greater extent if it is laid outside the building.
Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
Be fireproof and resistant to the appearance of pathogenic fungi.
It is easy to pass air.
Have a sufficiently loose structure to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.

Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside, you can use:

Ecowool.

Mineral wool (although it is not natural, it is easy to install and publicly available).
Sawdust or sawdust-granules (filling material).
Expanded clay (filling material).

Wood is an unusual building material. It not only “breathes”, but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone will assure you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly greater than that of reinforced concrete, know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, then the air is distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree "breathes" with its ends.

It is precisely because the wooden walls are “living” that the following materials cannot be used:

Styrofoam.
Extruded polystyrene foam.
Polyurethane foam.
Mounting foam for sealing gaps.
Sealants.

Using vapor barrier materials will cause the wood to rot, or if you protect it from the inside with a vapor barrier, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But the choice is still yours.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other measures for insulation have not brought the desired result.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or from the inside, then here is a definite answer for you - outside. This is due to the properties of the tree to breathe, accumulate moisture and give it away. In the case of an external location of the insulation, air and moisture will freely exit the tree and ventilate.

You can start warming only a year and a half after the completion of the construction, when the log house sits down.

Log wall caulk

Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to carefully caulk it. We examine all the walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we pass through the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place from which it blows in winter.

One of the most effective ways to look for cracks in logs is in winter when the house is heated, you need to go around and inspect all the walls. If you notice frost, it is sometimes also called a “bunny”, which means that heat is leaking from the room in this place.

Caulking should be done dry warm weather using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We put the material in the gap between the crowns and push it with a special tool - a caulk.

Ventilated facade device

Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows the wooden wall to "breathe" and release moisture.

First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and flame retardant to protect the tree from fire and mold. On top of the walls we fill the crate, which will hold the insulation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 50 mm. We fill vertically with a step equal to the width of the insulation boards minus 2 - 3 cm.

As a heater, we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg / m3, 50 mm thick.

Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we encounter some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation close without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we put insulation into the gaps (openings) between the wall and the battens of the crate. To do this, you can use "Basaltin" in rolls or interventional insulation- jute, linen.

We insert the plates mineral wool between the crate, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.

On top of the insulation we mount a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane. It must have a vapor permeability equal to at least 1400 g/m2 per day or higher.

Important! Properly selected wind protection for a ventilated log wall facade is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not allow moisture and wind to pass through from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to “breathe”.

On top of the windshield we stuff a crate of 50 mm bars. We mount siding on the crate. It could be vinyl siding imitating a tree, or you can use a block house, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.

The entire thickness of the crate (50 mm) is formed ventilation gap between membrane and façade. Air vents must be provided at the bottom and at the top so that air can circulate freely.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

The option of insulating the house inside must be considered before performing a ventilated facade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you won’t have to spoil appearance walls.

The following procedures can be attributed to the insulation of a log house from the inside: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against installing insulation inside the walls, since in this case the tree will dampen and rot.

Ceiling and roof insulation

The first thing, as soon as they found that it was cold in the house, we insulated the ceiling and roof.

If the house is one-story with an attic, then on attic floor we lay a waterproofing film, pour insulation on top with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. It is not necessary to cover the heater. From above, you can lay boards for ease of movement around the attic, but you do not need to equip the floor.

If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the ceiling between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to lay 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any) in the ceiling. If the attic floor is wooden, then we fill up the insulation between the lags. If the floor is concrete, then use basalt wool in slabs or, in extreme cases, foam. To insulate the roof slope, we lay a waterproofing film directly under the roof, then lay the insulation (mineral wool) with a layer of 150 - 200 mm. We lay a vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation so that the material is not saturated with moisture from the room. We mount the crate and trim for the attic.

The above procedures should be enough to make the house warmer.

Insulation of the walls of a log house

Let's go to the walls. Since it is impossible to mount insulation inside log walls, what we can do is to caulk well from the inside, insulate all window and door openings.

To insulate openings, we use rolled interventional insulation or, in extreme cases, mineral wool, but in no case do we blow out the cracks with mounting foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.

To finish the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them wooden clapboard. In this case, the insulation between the wall and the finish cannot be mounted. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps from the side of the heated room between the flat lining and the curved surface of the log walls.

Insulation of the floor of a log house

To floor in wooden house was warm, it must be equipped, observing the entire technology of laying the floor on the ground. Be sure to perform backfilling, waterproofing and insulation. If the floor is wooden, we lay insulation between the lags with a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Top rough and finish floor.

If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of "lean" concrete and the main layer we lay polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm.

Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, equip the house with a “warm floor” system. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay in it. Then you don’t have to sew up beautiful log walls, because such houses are being built because of their primitive beauty. What's the use of covering the walls with siding?

Insulation of a log house is a whole range of measures. If everything is done correctly, start from the ceiling and roof, then caulk the walls well, insulate the windows and doors, the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the house from the outside. If this does not help, there is another way to keep warm in a log house, which is not described here - to build a glazed veranda on the coldest side of the house, thereby expanding the area and forming an air barrier.

Wood has been used in construction since ancient times. This material is valued for its affordability and thermal conductivity. A house made of timber requires proper care then it will always be comfortable. Many have noticed that two or three years after construction, the house becomes noticeably colder. This is due to the fact that all the walls of the building are in constant motion.

The position of the bars changes slightly and cracks appear along the seams, even correctly installed windows begin to let in drafts over time. Construction flaws can also manifest themselves. In fact, fixing all these reasons is not difficult even with your own hands. If you do not want to spoil the appearance of the house, we will tell you how to insulate a log house from the inside.

Why inside wooden house cold:

Walls. Small gaps in the seams of a wooden house - the most common cause lack of heat in the rooms.
Windows and doors. Eternal sources of drafts and heat losses in any home.
Ceiling. From the course of physics it is known that warm air rises. If the upper part of the house from the timber is not sufficiently insulated, the heat simply escapes.
Floor of the first floor. In any house, it has a large area. Cold from the ground can greatly cool the air in the house.

Consider in order what you can do with your own hands with each of these reasons.

First, the walls of the house need to be caulked. For this, a special tool is used - a caulk. If it is not available, a hard spatula or a wide screwdriver is used. Tow, hemp, felt or jute rope are used as insulation. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly follow the sequence of actions.

You need to start caulking with bottom seam around the perimeter of the house, only then move on to the next.

The insulation must be driven into the cracks of the timber as densely and deeply as possible. You need to understand that after finishing work, the ceiling height will increase by several centimeters. Therefore, if you caulk each part of the house separately, one of the walls may collapse - the timber will simply pop out of the groove. Another way is to apply acrylic or silicone sealant at the junction of the beam.

If you are not satisfied with the result achieved, experts advise to additionally insulate the walls with thermal insulation. To do this, a guide beam is vertically attached to the wall, its height must be equal to the thickness of the insulating material. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Insulation is laid tightly between the guides, without gaps. For this purpose, any sheet material. After that, it remains only to make decorative wall cladding.

Windows and doors - how to get rid of the cold

The two main causes of cold from front doors and windows are drafts and insufficient insulation. Very often, cold from openings is confused with drafts. To determine the cause of a heat leak, you just need to make sure that the doors and windows are actually blowing or not. To do this, you need to hold a burning lighter at a short distance along the perimeter of the frame and sashes.

If the draft comes from the sashes, you need to seal all joints. To do this, it will be enough to stick a silicone seal with your own hands. You can also use foam rubber, but it has a short service life. You can also glue the windows with construction tape for the winter.

If it seeps through the perimeter of the frame, it is necessary to remove the trim and window sill to get to the opening between the wall and the frame. Then the opening is glued with waterproofing and insulated. As thermal insulation, you can use any rolled insulation or mounting foam. From above, the insulation must be pasted over with aluminum or reinforced tape, after which the platbands are put in place.

If it feels cold from the door, but there is no draft, you need to check the thermal insulation of the door. To do this, experts advise simply knocking on the canvas. The hollow structure from the inside will have to be changed. A window with single glazing can freeze in the cold season. In this case, you will have to install new windows.

Insulation of the roof and ceiling of a wooden house

Many do not consider heat loss through the roof and ceiling significant. In fact, there are often gaps through which the log house simply heats the street. Also, the surface of the roof can heat up from poor thermal insulation of the ceiling. By getting rid of these losses, you can save up to 60% of heating costs.

Before you start warming upper part wooden house, the entire seam of the upper beam of the wall and the roof structure should be sealed.

If the attic in the house is non-residential, it is very simple to insulate the ceiling with your own hands. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation of about forty centimeters is laid there. You need to understand that the insulation for the ceiling should be light. Typically, sawdust, polystyrene, mineral wool and other lightweight materials are used for this purpose.

If the ceiling is a roof vault, insulation is a little more difficult. To begin with, the entire surface of the roof from the inside must be covered with a layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not get on the insulation. Roof insulation is done in two ways:

Sheet insulation is laid tightly to each other. In this case, special attention should be paid to the absence of gaps between the sheets, because between them the heat will still go out.
Sheet insulation is laid from top to bottom with an overlap. This is done for additional protection from moisture, it will simply flow down the sheets of thermal insulation.

After that, it remains to ennoble the surface with decorative trim. For this purpose, lining is perfect.

Solving the cold floor problem

Home heating will not work efficiently if the house has cold floors. They cool the room and do not allow the air to warm up.

The wooden floor is insulated very simply, for this it is necessary to remove the floor upholstery. In order not to confuse the order in which the boards lay, it is better to mark them in advance. This will save a lot of time during assembly. Then the entire surface between the lags is covered with waterproofing so that the insulation does not pick up moisture from the soil.

The heat-insulating material is laid on it in such a way that there are no slightest cracks over the entire surface of the floor. Insulation is used by anyone who is not afraid of moisture. On top, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, because when cleaning the premises, water can get there and accumulate inside. After that, the floor boards will need to be laid in the reverse order.

The cement floor is insulated in two ways. If the height of the premises allows, logs made of wooden beams are laid on the floor. Between them, a heater is laid, which is closed with waterproofing from above. Then the floor is upholstered with a board.

If the ceiling height does not allow raising the floor level, you need to remove the cement screed and remove the floor backfill by about half a meter. After that, the pit is waterproofed and the insulation is filled up. Usually expanded clay is used for this. A layer of foam or other dense material is laid on top of it. A new screed is made on top.

After buying a new house, I could not even think that soon it would require cardinal measures related to wall insulation. All I've heard about log houses is that they are great at retaining heat and regulating humidity levels. However, having lived in it until the first cold weather, I realized that the issue of insulation is brought to the fore for me. Since everything repair work I always spend it with my own hands, then I decided to carry out the insulation of a log house on my own.

We warm the log house with our own hands

Reasons why insulation is needed

We independently insulate a log house

Most often, the presence of constant drafts and rapid cooling of the house after turning off the heating is the fault of the wrong location of the radiators and the “shabby” structure. The point is that the tree is natural material prone to various negative influences. There comes a time when a log house begins to lose its properties and it should be insulated from the outside.

To insulate a log house, you can use attic processing, caulking of walls, as well as thermal insulation of floors. However, I decided to start on the outside of the house, as there were no plans to renovate the interior in the near future. When preparing the materials for the log walls, I created a list of the necessary properties that they should have:

Vapor permeability is the key to successful thermal insulation, therefore, for use outside the house and also for finishing log surfaces, the material simply must have this property.
Moisture resistance - due to the possible accumulation of moisture, the wood begins to rot, so the material must repel it
Fire safety is essential for any finishing material, especially if it is to be used in conjunction with wood, which is naturally affected by fire.
The loose structure that the insulation can have allows it to fit snugly enough to the log surface and not form unfavorable gaps

Based on this list of properties, several types of thermal insulation can be distinguished, which we will discuss later.

Materials for thermal insulation

We warm the wooden house

The modern construction market is crowded various types heaters and each of them can be used to achieve the same goal, but on different surfaces. Judging by the above list of properties, I have identified several materials that can be used to insulate a log house:

Slag and expanded clay - being bulk materials, they allow you to fill in possible gaps and cracks that are so characteristic of wooden structures. At the same time, they are affordable, and all the work can be done by hand.
Ecowool – the advantage is that when mounted on the surface, ecological wool merges with wooden wall, thus forming a durable and dense coating having good properties thermal insulation. The material is made by processing waste paper, after which cellulose fibers are extracted.
Sawdust is a fairly common option for warming log houses. Despite the use high technology for the manufacture of a material with excellent qualities, the insulation is quite inexpensive
Styrofoam - also called polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. One of the cheapest options for insulation, very light and easy to install. However, its use for log houses is not justified due to high performance vapor permeability. This causes the wood to rot.
Mineral wool - a good option for a wooden house. With proper thermal insulation, the walls will be reliably protected from decay and manifestations of the fungus. In addition, rodents are indifferent to mineral wool and do not make their homes in it. Mineral wool is characterized by indicators of good resistance to burning.

Thanks to such a variety, I was able to choose the best insulation for my home, which suited me, both in terms of installation technology and price.

Important! All finishing work for a log house, both outside and inside, should take place no earlier than one year after the completion of construction.

So the house I bought was already quite old, I didn’t have to wait for some time, and I immediately set about warming it with my own hands.

The process of self-insulation

As it turned out, one choice of thermal insulation and surface mounting was not enough. As one of my familiar masters said: before holding everyone finishing works it is necessary to qualitatively caulk a log house. However, not all gaps can be sufficiently visible and therefore there is good way detection of defective places:

This method consists in identifying imperceptible cracks from which it can blow out in winter. To do this, a candle is taken and held as close to the surface of the walls as possible. If the candle flame noticeably leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place.
It is recommended to carry out this event in calm weather.
By the way, if it’s winter outside and you want to identify cracks right now, then you just need to carefully review the surface of the log walls. If in some places there are even small manifestations of frost, then a heat leak has been detected in this place

All do-it-yourself caulking processes should be carried out only in dry and warm weather. The process of warming my house from the outside took place with the help of mineral wool. And I want to note that thermal insulation occurs with the help of arranging a ventilated facade for a log building. So, let's look at how to insulate a log house.

The whole do-it-yourself insulation technology from the outside consists in the following sequence:

The first step is the processing of the walls. For this, an antiseptic and a fire retardant are used. For owners wooden houses or cladding, these terms will not be new, since these materials protect wood from fire and mold manifestations
Next, the crate is made. Bars with a cross section of 5 cm should be stuffed vertically on the walls. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation used. I used mineral wool boards with a density of 35-50kg/m3
The insulation is inserted between the crate structure and pushed tightly into the opening. The process starts from the bottom up. Very often, problems can arise at this stage, since it is very difficult to lay the material closely on an uneven log wall. To do this, "basaltin" in rolls is placed in the gaps between the frame bars and the surface of the walls.
When the plates are installed, it is necessary to install the wind protection waterproofing membrane. This stage should be taken very seriously, as it can negate all your efforts. I used a membrane with a vapor permeability of 1400g / 1 day
On top of the wind protection, the battens of the crate are re-packed, on which the siding panels are subsequently installed. Of course, I decided to use a wooden blockhouse and thus restore the appearance of my log house as much as possible. However, you can use metal or vinyl siding, wide color palette which allows you to create incredible facades

If you have not yet decided with what and how to insulate a log house, then I hope my article helped you decide on the place of work. Conducting insulation from the outside allows not only to create a favorable microclimate in the room, but also to save the precious living space that we need so much. In addition, it is very beneficial to carry out insulation from the outside during the finishing of log walls using a ventilated facade.

Today, many of us dream of living in our own beautiful house. That's just to pastime in it was as comfortable as possible, it needs to be well equipped. The comfort of living in any house depends on the quality of thermal insulation. This is especially true for buildings made of wooden beams. However, in order for the insulation from the outside, made with your own hands, to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to take into account the features of the tree. If this is not done, then the thermal insulation and walls will not last long. In addition, in the process of work, it is necessary to adhere to certain instructions and observe safety precautions.

General information about insulation

To achieve good thermal insulation of a wooden house, it is necessary to take into account two features of wood as a building material. Firstly, the tree has a high vapor permeability, and secondly, it is prone to the development of fungi and mold. talking plain language, the tree absorbs moisture very well, which enhances heat loss. Thus, when arranging the insulation of a log house from the outside with your own hands, you should choose materials that will protect the wood well from moisture so that it does not rot. Another important nuance is the ventilation gap, which should be between the insulation layer and the wall. And to prevent the development of fungus and mold, the tree is impregnated with special antiseptics.

Types of insulation

Insulation of a log house from the outside, the technology of which requires compliance with certain instructions, is a rather laborious process. When insulating inside, the insulation material is laid in the room, after which it is sheathed with any finishing material. With external insulation, everything happens the other way around.

Insulation inside the house is used in cases where it is necessary to preserve the natural appearance of the building, for example, if the house was built from a log house.

However, this technology has several disadvantages:

reduction of free space inside the rooms;
constant dampness in the room;
a strong temperature difference inside the house and outside leads to the fact that the tree deteriorates very quickly.

Therefore, in most cases, the insulation of a log house is used from the outside under the siding.

External insulation device

To minimize heat loss through the walls and eliminate the possibility of fungus, when insulating the facade of the house, it is very important that the wall not only prevents heat from escaping, but also breathes.

For this, insulation is carried out according to the principle of "layer cake", which consists of the following components:

bearing wall;
frame;
insulation layer;
membrane film that protects the wall from the wind;
crate for finishing materials;
siding.

With such insulation of the house, the walls breathe, condensate is removed from them thanks to the wooden frame, which is not only responsible for fixing the finishing materials, but also creates an air cushion. In addition, condensate cannot disappear on its own, so a vapor barrier layer must be provided between the insulation and the wall, which will protect the insulation from moisture and prevent its damage.

Varieties of insulation materials

To date, the insulation of a log house from the outside, from the inside is carried out according to a similar principle, it can be done using the following materials:

mineral wool;
polystyrene;
extruded polystyrene foam;
ecowool.

Each of the materials has certain advantages and disadvantages, so when buying it, you should take into account all the features of each type of insulation. You can buy everything you need to warm your home in specialized stores.

External insulation of a wooden house: what material is better to choose?

Before you start arranging thermal insulation at home, you need to purchase suitable material. It is very common to insulate a log house from the outside with ecowool. It consists of a collection of fibers that are produced by melting rocks. The excellent thermal insulation qualities of ecowool are due to the fact that there is air between the fibers, which contributes to better heat retention.

In addition, the heater also has the following advantages:

ease of installation;
low cost;
high resistance to ignition;
good vapor permeability;
excellent sound and heat insulation characteristics.

If you decide to make external thermal insulation using this material, then you should take into account the fact that the insulation of a log house from the outside with mineral wool under the siding should provide for the arrangement of wind protection, since this insulation absorbs moisture very well, which significantly reduces performance characteristics ecowool.

Other types of insulation that can be used to create thermal insulation for a house from a wooden beam are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both materials belong to the category of polymers, consisting of numerous cells glued together, between which there are pores. It is thanks to the voids that excellent thermal insulation is achieved. It is worth noting that both materials are very similar and are made using reliable technology, however, expanded polystyrene has a higher strength.

Nevertheless, most professionals recommend using mineral wool outside insulation of a log house, since polystyrene foam and its analogues have very poor vapor permeability. Consequently, condensate accumulates between the insulation and the wall, which creates ideal conditions for the development of fungus, mold and harmful microorganisms.

External thermal insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool, due to its availability and fairly good characteristics, is most often used for external insulation of houses made of wooden beams or log cabins. However, it is very important to understand how much material is required for this. For this, one should calculate total area that needs to be insulated.

In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can adhere to the following algorithm:

The ceiling height is measured in each of the rooms.
The total perimeter of all rooms is measured.
The resulting measurements are multiplied for each private room, after which the area of \u200b\u200bthe openings is subtracted from the resulting figure, and then the area of \u200b\u200bgables is added, which can be calculated using the mathematical formula for determining the area of \u200b\u200ba triangle.
Decide which manufacturer's material you will be using. Divide the total area of the mineral wool by the area of each slab. In this case, it is very important to provide for a small margin, which will be necessary to eliminate the error when cutting the mineral. The resulting figure will indicate the amount of mineral wool that each slab consists of for insulating a log house from the outside.

In this case, the amount of material also depends on how thick the insulation layer will be. For regions with a warm climate, insulation can be laid with a layer thickness of 50 millimeters, and for areas with very cold winters - 150 mm. If, for some reason, mineral wool cannot be laid in one layer, then two layers can be made in this case.

What tools will be required?

To make the thermal insulation of a wooden house, in addition to the insulation material, you will need a certain set of tools. For the construction of the frame you need electric jigsaw or grinder to cut wooden beam. At the same time, it is important to understand that work will go much faster with a grinder, however, this tool will damage the anti-corrosion coating, which will negatively affect the durability of the material, and the insulation of the walls of a log house from the outside will not last so long. If the frame is made of a metal profile, then in this case you will need metal scissors.

In addition, it is necessary to tighten the screws with something. A screwdriver with a set of nozzles will perfectly cope with this task. It is best to choose a tool with a self-powered power source, because this way you will not be tied to an outlet and will be able to work in any part of the house. Since the insulation of a log house from the outside is a very laborious and long process, it will be useful to get an additional battery. This way you can operate the tool and charge the battery at the same time.

When creating a wooden frame, it is necessary to customize its individual elements. This is done with a rubber or wooden mallet. It will also be necessary sharp knife for cutting mineral wool.

As mentioned earlier, the insulation of a log house from the outside should include a windproof layer. It is created using a special film, which is attached to a wooden frame with metal brackets. This will require a construction stapler.

In order for the wall to be perfectly flat after completion of all work, the arrangement of thermal insulation must be carried out using a level, tape measure and plumb line. Without these tools it is simply impossible to do everything qualitatively.

Laying insulation on a wooden frame

Most often, when equipping the thermal insulation of a house, the insulation is laid on wooden frame. In this case, the insulation of a log house from the outside is performed in a certain sequence.

The wall is being prepared. All protruding elements are removed from it, after which the tree is treated with special antiseptic agents. Particular attention must be paid to hard-to-reach places, since it is in them that the fungus and microorganisms most often develop.
A wooden frame is created. For him, it is better to use bars measuring 30x30 millimeters. Horizontal and vertical elements fastened together with galvanized self-tapping screws, which are highly resistant to corrosion. It is worth noting that the distance between the bars should be 5 mm less than the size of each plate of insulation material. This is very important, because after laying the mineral wool there should be no cracks or gaps. Otherwise, the thermal insulation will be of poor quality, heat loss will occur. Plate-shaped dowels are used to fix the material.
The second layer of insulation is being laid. All work is carried out in the same way as described earlier.
When the thermal insulation layer is completely completed, you can start laying Each subsequent strip of film should be laid with an overlap of 10 centimeters on the previous strip. The membrane is attached to the frame with construction stapler and metal staples. In order for the protection to be of high quality and reliable, the joints of the membrane in without fail should be glued with special construction tape.
On top of the windscreen, slats are attached to the wooden frame, on which the siding elements will be attached.
At the final stage, facing works are carried out.

On this, the insulation of a log house from the outside can be considered fully completed.

Installing insulation on brackets

Insulation can be laid not only on a wooden frame, but also on brackets. The process of performing work in this case must take place in a certain sequence.

The outer side of the walls is treated with an antiseptic.
Metal brackets are attached to the facade of the building, at a distance that will be between the individual elements of the crate.
Mineral wool is being laid. To do this, the insulation is simply placed on the brackets and secured with dish-shaped dowels.
A windproof film is laid and fixed on top of the mineral wool.
A metal crate is created on which vinyl panels are installed.

If you strictly adhere to the instructions described above, you will get high-quality and durable thermal insulation.

Conclusion

Regardless of how the log house was insulated from the outside - with clay, sawdust, shavings or mineral wool, when working with any material it is very important to follow the rules for working with it, as well as follow the installation technology. However the best option mineral wool is used as a heater, since it has excellent performance characteristics and a low price.

Regardless of the chosen insulation, the arrangement of thermal insulation is recommended to be carried out in warm time years for the wood to dry out properly. In addition, before laying the insulation material, the walls should be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect them from damage and prevent the formation of fungus, mold, rot and the appearance of various microorganisms and rodents. Only in this way you can create thermal insulation for centuries, which will not have to be changed after just a few years.

One of the advantages of log houses is their high heat-saving characteristics.

However, over time, due to the shrinkage of the walls of the log house, gaps appear between the logs, the insulation between the crowns of the log house loses its properties and the building becomes cooler.

AT climate zone with severe winters, there is a need for insulation of houses built from logs with a diameter of 180 mm or less.

In this article we will tell you how to insulate a log house from the outside and from the inside, what building materials are suitable for this.

Features of warming log houses

Features of warming houses made of rounded logs are due to the properties of wood.

Wooden log cabins shrink by 6 - 8% during the first half of the year, so insulation work should not be started earlier than a year after construction is completed.
Since new wooden houses hold heat well, there is no need to rush

Wooden walls breathe. Depending on the season and weather conditions, the moisture content of the wood changes, so the logs must be ventilated. If the surface of the walls is closed with a vapor-tight material, excess moisture will have nowhere to go and the logs will begin to rot.

Log buildings have an attractive appearance, so many homeowners do not want to degrade it by insulating facades.
Internal insulation is less effective, but subject to certain rules, it brings success

Log house insulation

The main requirement for insulation of wooden structures is that they must be vapor-permeable.

This requirement is met by fibrous materials, the most common of which is mineral wool.

Mineral wool is made from fiberglass, slag and rocks.

The fibers are held together with organic binders and impregnated with water-repellent compounds.

Glass wool is inconvenient to install because it has prickly fibers
Slag wool is acidic and releases aggressive substances with increasing humidity.
Stone wool is devoid of disadvantages, with the exception of those common to all fibrous materials

Mineral wool has the following characteristics:

Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.038 - 0.053 W / mxK
Sound absorption coefficient - 0.95
Density - 75 - 200 kg / cu.
Compressive strength - 0.04 - 0.06 MPa
Vapor permeability - 0.49-0.60 Mg/(m×h×Pa)
Maximum working temperature- more than 800 degrees

The following grades of mineral wool are used in construction (the number in the designation corresponds to the density of the material):

P-75 - for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces without load on the insulation ( interfloor ceilings between lags)
P-125 - for thermal insulation of inclined and vertical surfaces without load on the insulation (roof and walls)
PZh-175 and PZh-200 - for thermal insulation of any surfaces with a load on the insulation (floors with cement screed and flat roofs)

Stone wool P-125 is optimal for warming houses.

Insulation of log houses

To perform high-quality thermal insulation of the house, it is necessary to insulate all surfaces in contact with the external environment.

These include:

Window and door openings
Roof
Walls

Work should begin with caulking the seams between the log crowns.

How to insulate a log house with your own hands

The walls are caulked from the street and from the inside. For this, jute and synthetic are used. tape heaters or moss. Next, the openings, floors and roofs are insulated. Often this is enough. If not, proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

How to insulate a log house from the outside?

Warming with outer side facade is done as follows:

Lathing bars are nailed to the walls horizontally with a step a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.
Their width should be slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation layer.
Plates are inserted between the bars. Laying is carried out in at least two layers with dressing of joints
Insulation for a wooden house is covered with a windproof membrane from the outside.
This film material protects mineral wool from moisture, but allows vapors to pass from the insulation layer to the outside. For the membrane to work correctly, it must be hung with the rough side out.
A vertical crate is nailed to the bars for attaching finishing materials. Thus, between the thermal insulation layer and outer skin a ventilation gap is created to ventilate the walls and insulation
Finishing materials are attached to the crate.
It can be lining, imitation of timber or block house

Internal insulation of a log house

Since wood is a good heat insulator, when insulating from the inside, the dew point (the freezing point of water at which condensation forms) rarely shifts outside the walls.

Nevertheless, measures to remove moisture from the log house will not be superfluous.

To do this, experts recommend leaving a ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation of at least 2 cm. If air circulation is provided in the ventilation gap, then the insulation of the log house from the inside is possible using vapor-tight materials - polystyrene and others.

Warming is performed as follows:

To provide a gap to the walls, a vertical wooden crate is nailed.
A membrane is attached over it.
With a step slightly less than the width of the insulation, a counter-crate is mounted
Slabs of mineral wool or polystyrene are inserted between its bars in several layers.
Hang a vapor barrier film
Sheathe the walls finishing materials- clapboard, drywall, chipboard, etc.

Much easier technology wall insulation with penofol.

This roll material made of foamed polyester, covered with foil on one side. Penofol is absolutely not afraid of moisture, which means it does not require vapor - waterproofing.

Penofol strips are attached to the slats, providing a ventilation gap, with foil towards the room. The material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints are sealed with construction tape. There should be a gap of 2 cm between the insulation and finishing materials.

The modern building materials market allows you to choose insulation for the outer walls of a wooden house for every taste.

In addition to the materials described for internal insulation OSB, sprayed thermal insulation, etc. are used.

But the best insulation stone wool remains for wooden houses.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Many of us in the construction of a house of wood I believe that this problem, like an external insulation log, is durable, cheap and, most importantly, will not be an additional inconvenience or even harm to the tenants themselves.

It is necessary that not all insulating materials be suitable for certain requirements for environment, durability, thermal protection and moisture consumption.

Why is it necessary to isolate a frame?

A wooden wooden house house is very special in aesthetics and retains heat quite well.

However, with a temporary reduction, a cutout is formed between the logs of the boundary seam, which is dangerous not only because it will let the cold through, but also retains dangerous moisture, which affects the life of the tree.

In addition, many of us live in rather difficult climatic conditions, so heating the frame from the outside is simply necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate in the house.

Proper insulation of a house made of wood in the future will save not a small coolant.

What is important to know about home isolation?

After the frame is created, the shrinkage process starts from 10 to 24 months.

The fact is that during this period the forests were in contact with humidity, hot summers, on the contrary, they dry up, which contributes to a change in their height, the appearance of cracks in the diaries outside and the gaps between them.

In this regard, work on external insulation can begin in less than a year or a year and a half.

It is also important to understand that the moisture content of wood varies depending on external factors (season, time) and that the chalet has used ventilation for a long time.

In no case should it be insulated with impervious materials, because moisture cannot get through and the frame will start to rot.

Thermal insulation for a wooden house

As we have already understood, the main requirement of an insulating material is breathability.

As an external insulation of logs, they are mainly used:

Mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Extruded expanded polystyrene;
foamed heater;
Polyurethane foam.

In any case, whatever material you choose, remember that there must be an air layer on the outside of the thermal insulation against the inverted material.

This will avoid excessive humidification and improve part of the future ventilation.

Additional information and video tips:

In any case, the process of heating a house requires the purchase the following tools and details:

Anchor bolts;
Waterproofing film;
antifungal solution;
Self-tapping screws;
plumb bob;
Level;
Construction coupling.

Mineral wool heaters

This type of insulation is used to heat the frame from the outside most often.

It is non-toxic and non-flammable, but has many disadvantages.

When we are made of fiberglass and slag wool, then such materials (containing fine iron particles) can be oxidized and corroded even when high humidity and thus, choosing them as a heater, good protection against water ingress.

Perform insulation on outside houses with mineral wool with good water repellency and on both sides.

Otherwise, the least moisture on the block of such insulation may cause failure and take away the heat retention properties.

Builders have a lot of respect for stone builders, being almost 95% basalt, which means it is virtually unaffected by moisture and fire.

House insulated with blocks of stone wool better protected from temperature changes, severe frosts or heat.

In addition, stones have the best performance sound absorption than their opponents.

Styrofoam

An equally popular material for frame insulation is expanded polystyrene. This is usually done in leaves per meter, and the thickness is often different - from 20 to 30 mm.

The use of foam in the frame heating process is very convenient due to its lightness and cutting comfort.

This is also attracted by the fact that it is completely safe for human health, but only up to 75 degrees Celsius.

After that, the foam extracts phenol vapor, which is very harmful to humans.

The main disadvantage of such a heater is good burnout, but for a wooden house this can be very dangerous.

Extruded expanded polystyrene

It might be the best out there insulating materials described above.

It is similar to polystyrene, it is made of polystyrene, but the technology of its production is completely different.

Extruded polystyrene (EPS) is extruded.

The granules are first dissolved and a homogeneous viscous mass is obtained, which, upon receipt of certain chemical additives, becomes a material with strong intermolecular bonds.

Therefore, EP has the following advantages:

Fully adapted Russian climate due to resistance to frost and not susceptible to decay;
Resistant to the strongest temperature changes;
Durability of the material (life expectancy up to 50 years when open);
Easy installation;
Democratic price, although more expensive than plastic foam;
Without additional waterproofing, this is possible;
Ecological composition;
Absolute protection against moisture (this material does not absorb water, even if it is simply added to the bath).

Foam insulated insulation

This is a relatively new type of insulation in a design that is itself a layer of polyethylene foam on aluminum base(one side and both sides).

Thermal insulation material insulated with foam retains heat one and a half times better than polystyrene and mineral wool.

It weighs a little, and its installation does not create any additional problems.

The only, but serious, shade of such a heater is absolute vapor tightness and gas tightness, which makes it suitable for heating the frame from the outside.

After using such a heater, you can make a "greenhouse" out of the house, where the microclimate and ventilation will be disturbed.

Polyurethane foam

This insulation is applied to the surface in the form of foam using certain cylinders, and after drying, a strong layer is formed that follows the shape of the wall.

Its advantage is in speed, after all, it does not need to be directed and monitored by the process of fixing blocks, as with all other types.

However, the use of polyurethane foam requires special equipment, which significantly increases the cost of such insulation.

The price is only negative, otherwise it does not have the same.

Think polyurethane foam:

It lies easily and lies firmly on any surface;
Fills in all cracks and cracks in magazines or magazines;
Protects against corrosion (for example, the iron frame of a house);
Quick and easy installation;
Mold resistant, rotten, not suitable for insects or rodents;
Long service life.

conclusion

The information in this article will help you correct solution and choose best material as external insulation for your home.

Most importantly, remember that up to 40% of the heat in the room depends on it, as well as the comfort and comfort of life.

Heated corners

Freezing corners - an inconvenience that may be encountered by Khrushchev tenants as slab or stone buildings and country houses, even if they are made of wood, albeit stone.

Fortunately, this serious problem can be solved on your own.

Let's talk about how to deal with cold corners.

Thermal insulation in practice and in theory

Because of cold bridges, corners are the most vulnerable part of almost every home. These parts of the structural design increased the thermal conductivity.

Each vertical or horizontal angle represents a geometric cold bridge. If the building supplier is allowed - tightly sealed joints, gaps in concrete, insufficient mortar between bricks, lack of necessary insulation - problems cannot be avoided.

Where there is a cold, the wall surface temperature in winter can drop below the dew point and maintain room temperature indoors.

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In such spaces, due to the temperature difference, it forms in the form of condensate, which leads to the formation of a mold, and when it freezes, it turns into ice crystals.

The most logical solution in this case is to install insulation from inside the wall.

But each such insulation essentially identically insulates the wall from heat and cold.

Using a heater can make things worse as it will move the dew point to the inside of the wall. For example, if you warm the foundation in winter.

As a result cold air it will freeze from the road because the heat from the apartment cannot penetrate the insulation.

Humidification and freezing continue, the heater becomes unusable and ceases to perform its functions.

In addition, the ice crystals will continue to break down the material of the wall, further increasing the cold bridges.

How to warm up the corners of the house?

The ideal way to solve the problem is to insulate the entire facade from the outside and tightly seal the gasket. Have a house to be renovated in a very realistic but apartment building you will have to contact the management company for help.

But don't give up.

And in a separate apartment you can get a good result. First you must remove the wallpaper. If there are no visible cracks, the walls are recorded with a hammer, where there are voids, the sound will be deaf. Then remove the plaster over the open cavities and dry the corner thoroughly.

If there is mold, which must be treated with special antifungal agents.

Sometimes the mold damage is so great that it is necessary to use acid, fire, a fan, or sanding the surface.

All cracks and voids are filled with foam or foam. This will prevent moisture from entering the room, even if there are cracks in the outer wall. And finally, clean off the remaining foam and intervene in the corner.

Work is best done in the warm season to completely get rid of moisture and mold in the room.

If very large cavities are found, they do not need to be filled with mineral wool or paste, as these materials tend to accumulate moisture.

It is better to use all the same prefabricated foams. It is resistant to moisture, does not rot and mold, has high adhesive properties, does not lose quality when frozen.

Modern thermal insulation

Manufacturers today offer various materials which greatly facilitate the repair process and bring it to a qualitatively new level.

For example, special thermal insulation materials are lightweight mixtures that use microscopic polystyrene granules or lightweight natural aggregates instead of sand.

This type of stucco is often simpler than usual, and is well used and replaceable.

Due to the presence of air pores, the hot mixture has a high vapor permeability, regulates condensation and ensures a healthy indoor climate.

Thermal layers of 50 mm for the effect of thermal insulation are equivalent to laying one and a half to two bricks or two centimeter layers of polystyrene foam, but this is not enough.

Recently, new materials have been released on the market, produced by various manufacturers under different brands, but combining them with the common name " liquid thermal insulation».

For such problem areas, it is indispensable as freezing in the corner.

The color-like insulating suspension is made up of hollow microspheres that effectively reflect heat radiation.

The microspheres are suspended in a binder composition of synthetic rubber or acrylic polymers, antifungal and anti-corrosion additives, and color pigments.

Such a composition gives the current thermal insulation properties water resistance, flexibility, lightness and power, but this is certainly a publicity stunt.

But do not go for the current isolation, trust basalt.

The thermal conductivity of liquid heat insulators is much lower than for conventional heaters. A few layers of this color can replace 5-10 cm of polyurethane foam or 10 cm thick basalt, as the manufacturers claim, but this is often stupid.

It is used on almost all surfaces - concrete, brick, wood - because it has excellent adhesion, is non-toxic, does not contain harmful compounds and can be painted in any color (it's just a color).

In the domestic area, liquid thermal insulation is applied by any suitable method and then, after drying, covered with any final material.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a wooden house: step by step instructions

This is not only a well-known architectural method, but also a method of additional heating.

You can use interesting design solutions. For example, in the corner of the ceiling, install drywall with lighting from ordinary light bulbs.

Work lamps heat the air inside the structure, pushing dew into the wall.

You can use the services of companies that offer thermal imaging when buying a house or an expensive apartment.

Experts will help detect all heat leakage and determine if builders' faults can be repaired.

It can protect owners from a range of home maintenance problems and save significant resources.

According to the technology of building wooden houses, the corners at the corners were fixed with special cutting "locks" with additional built-in natural insulation.

This safely protects the structure from freezing.

Village cottages in a modern building are very popular. Their natural environmental compatibility, low cost and excellent performance have attracted many developers.

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside?

External insulation of the wooden frame

Thermal insulation of wooden houses is usually carried out a year or 2 years after the completion of construction, when a complete collapse of the frame occurs. First, sealing work is carried out: all blown prints must be fixed in the walls, ceiling, floor coverings, through which cold air enters, and heat evaporates from the outside.

Morning, towed fibers, hemp and other heaters of natural and synthetic origin are used as sealing materials.

All gaps are tightly closed and blocked, treated joints and interference zones are covered with a special protective solution or combined foam.

In addition, a ventilated façade design can be implemented from the outside to insulate the wooden house.

The main advantage of this design is that the wood continues to cause excessive moisture and "breathes". Initially, the surface of the wood is protected from mold and fire, thereby inhibiting fire retardants and antiseptics.

In addition, the lining panel is designed with rock wool insulation and superfusion membrane.

It is necessary to insulate the carriage with mineral wool so as not to soften or mold the cork, otherwise the thermal insulation and sealing of the frame will be unreliable.

And finally, to safely insulate the house from the outside, the side is attached to the box.

Internal insulation of the wooden frame

Heating a private wooden house from the inside usually starts at the windows, because it is with a significant loss of heat.

The optimal solution is to install wooden frames with double glazed windows or plastic profile. Internal registration of journals is carried out using vilaterm technology. Joints and beams between beams are clogged with acrylic rubber seals and sealants (vilaterm), which significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the seams. The walls inside the rooms are covered with lining, block, decorative tiles or stones.

Thus, your home will be effectively protected from moisture and cold.

In connection with the insulation of the floor in a wooden house, most often you can do with ordinary carpet.

If there is obvious permeability in the corners and in contact with the walls, they can be treated with special sealants or a lock can be made. Ceiling heating in a wooden house is made with a mineral wool coating of 14-15 cm with additional ceilings at the corners and joints. Wet and swollen places are sealed with a patch or rubber-based tapes.

Recently, new ways of heating joints in wooden houses have appeared.

Thus, an effective method for sealing cracks and cracks with acrylic rubber is contemplated. This tool allows you to significantly reduce the cost of space heating and simply connect - a syringe or a spatula for construction directly to interplanetary seams and cracks.

Where to order log insulation from logs?

If you want to order the insulation of a wooden house in Kazan, and reliability, durability and tightness of connections are important to you, then it is best to trust this process to experienced specialists.

VKRASKE.COM will always help you isolate the structure with minimal cost, beautiful and timely. Your house will be warm!