IN bath room the microclimate is unique. Competent arrangement construction involves insulating the bathhouse inside. This process is labor-intensive, but completely doable on your own.
Information on how to properly insulate a bathhouse inside will allow the owner to significantly improve its performance. After completing the work, you will be able to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.
Deciding how to insulate wooden sauna from the inside with your own hands, a number of factors should be taken into account:
- properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
- personal construction skills and capabilities;
- own preferences.
Features of materials for thermal protection
To decide how and how best to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you need to know the conditions under which the materials will be used:
- First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room the air is characterized by high humidity. It is unlikely to be dry in the dressing room. Taking these factors into account, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing. Thermal insulation for a steam room bath should be of high quality.
- In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam, under conditions of strong heating, will begin to release substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic panels and linoleum cannot be used to decorate the steam room. In the first case, the products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
- A significant part of the thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat exchange and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bathhouse on the inside walls must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.
Insulation of different types of walls
The choice of how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside depends on the type of material from which it is built:
- If it's brick, stone or concrete products , thermal protection is required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bathhouse will have wet walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be selected taking into account the parameters load-bearing structures and climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.
- Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath?? On the one hand, thermal protection of the building will not hurt, but on the other hand, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, insulation is required for baths made of timber, with walls no more than 15 centimeters thick. Sauna log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross-section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.
From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or thermal protection is provided with waterproofing and clapboard finishing. Lathing is only suitable if there are rubble on the walls.
Horizontally located strips of vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5-centimeter overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the lower fabrics are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to high temperatures.
Selection of insulation materials
The optimal solution for insulating a bathhouse from the inside is considered to be basalt wool. Hard mats of 10 cm thickness are used. When thermally protecting the ceiling, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.
To insulate the bathhouse inside, you still need to have the following materials at your disposal:
- For sheathing. Most reliable option for bath buildings made of brick or stone - construction of a frame from a profile used for plasterboard (read: ""). Often chosen ceiling profile CD, and from the UD guide profile they make edging along the perimeter of the walls. The fixation step for direct hangers is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made smaller by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation boards. IN wooden baths bars are used as a profile.
- For water vapor barrier. A heat-resistant material with foil is required that is impermeable to moisture and steam. The construction market has large selection such products. For example, you can purchase foamed foil polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of the room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. Thus, a 3-millimeter thick layer of Penotherm provides the same level of thermal protection as a 150-millimeter beam.
- For finishing . Usually the insulation is placed in the bathhouse under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for final finishing from linden or aspen, since products from these wood species are resistant to decay processes, even with high temperatures do not heat up and retain their original appearance for a long time.
Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors
When deciding how to insulate a bathhouse inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree thermal resistance at ceiling and walls. True, a cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.
To thermally insulate the door leading to the steam room, a thick felt frame is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames at the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.
As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms there is no need to be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. For protection plastic windows foam self-adhesive strips are used.
The choice of products, the better to insulate the bathhouse inside, depends on the type of floor covering. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wooden floor, and boards are mounted on top of the leveled backfill. It will be useful to understand how to insulate a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside so that problems do not arise later.
They begin to equip a concrete leaky floor by digging a pit 50 centimeters deep.
The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged from bottom to top in the following sequence:
- sand –5 centimeters;
- polystyrene foam – 20 centimeters;
- concrete mixed in a 1:1 ratio with foam chips- 5 centimeters;
- waterproofing;
- concrete combined with vermiculite in a 1:1 ratio (this is the name of a natural material with low thermal conductivity) – 5 centimeters;
- reinforced screed –5 centimeters.
During the process of pouring the base, it is necessary to arrange a slope. On top concrete screed A boardwalk is installed on the joists.
In the case when you need a continuous flooring, laid on top of the rough base thermal insulation material a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. Mount on top of this layer reinforced screed 5-10 centimeters high.
Then, as a rule, the tiles are laid. Despite the fact that the tiles in the steam room do not heat up to a high temperature, it is advisable to provide wooden coasters for your feet to make your visit to the bathhouse more enjoyable.
Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceilings
Insulating the walls and ceiling of a bathhouse from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, while special attention You should pay attention to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.
Stage one - creating the sheathing. The procedure for how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside suggests that the distance from the sheathing to the base of the wall or ceiling needs to be made slightly greater than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.
When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted using hangers, and the block is nailed down using a backing, which can be a piece of block. Galvanized hangers are also used for wooden sheathing.
The sequence for attaching the profile is as follows:
- A UD guide profile is fixed along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, observing a 60-centimeter step. It is mounted to timber or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - with screws and plastic dowels.
- The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account that the gap between them should allow the laying of heat insulation slabs without trimming. Then the hangers are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
- To install and fix the CD profiles to the hangers, use metal screws 9 millimeters long. The free edges of the hangers need to be folded.
Stage two - installation of insulation. Basalt wool in slabs they are placed between bars (profiles). The insulation of a ventilated façade or loggias is carried out in the same way. The work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, when they get on the human mucosa, they greatly irritate it.
For cutting slabs use a standard sharp knife. The insulation should not be crushed during installation. Regarding how best to insulate a bathhouse, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the smaller its volume, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.
Stage three - vapor and waterproofing device. Strips of material are fixed horizontally from bottom to top, maintaining a 5-centimeter overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be facing inside the room.
The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the sheathing is made. So, before you insulate the steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. If there is a galvanized profile, the strips are secured with double-sided aluminum tape.
To create high-quality vapor barrier The insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints must be taped with the same tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.
Stage four - paneling. To make the room cozy and beautiful after completing the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.
First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:
- circular saw or electric jigsaw;
- drill - screwdriver;
- rasp (required when adjusting and processing the edge of the lining);
- construction square (necessary for marking boards);
- level and plumb line (they are in demand when checking verticals and horizontals);
- metal clamps for fixation wooden lining;
- copper or galvanized screws, which are needed for fastening the clamps to the bars;
- metal screws;
- wooden baseboards for finishing corners.
When carrying out work, you need to consider a number of points:
There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are installed along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.
The end boards in each row of the lining should be fastened with screws through and through, and their caps will be covered by the baseboard. All other boards will be held in place by clamps.
The above procedure allows you to insulate old bathhouse from the inside, as well as a completely new building. Thermal protection of a bath structure is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.
Most types of baths must be insulated from the inside. This will lead to fuel savings and more efficient and faster heating of the steam room.
Insulation from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, warm up the steam room faster and better. Properly done insulation protects the walls of the bathhouse from fungus and rotting, and extends its service life. In this article we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation depending on the material of the bathhouse walls, and consider how to install them correctly.
We insulate the bathhouse
- Bath insulation
- Bathroom floor insulation
- Summing up
Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: materials
TO different rooms baths have different requirements, we will focus on the steam room and wash room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the bath walls.
But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation must be:
- Non-toxic so as not to cause poisoning when exposed to high temperature;
- Not hygroscopic, so as not to absorb moisture;
- Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
- Non-flammable;
- Maintaining its shape even after several years of extreme use;
- Resistant to fungi and mold;
- Sold at a reasonable price.
Bath insulation
Insulation | In what room is it used? | Note |
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, insulation made from reeds and sawdust, moss, tow, etc. | Dressing room, rest room. | Natural materials ignite at high temperatures, so they are not suitable for steam rooms and washrooms. But jute and linen materials are the best interventional insulation chopped bath. There are excellent modern roll insulation made from natural materials, but they are very expensive, so they are practically not used for insulating baths. |
Mineral insulation. | They can insulate any bathhouse. Most often, slab insulation boards (mats) that are easy to install are used. | They do not rot, last up to 30 years, are fire resistant, and inexpensive. Most Russian baths are insulated with these materials. |
Polymer materials | It is not recommended by craftsmen for insulating a steam room. | Polystyrene foam is an excellent heat insulator, but it is flammable, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You cannot use polystyrene foam in the steam room.. Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex is considered a safe material (it is used to insulate the bathhouse of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica). But experts also do not recommend using this material in a steam room. |
Insulation based aluminum foil. | It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a specific room. | The operating principle of such insulation is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to foil. Some types of foil insulation are produced specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others begin to emit when the temperature rises. harmful substances. Foil in the bathhouse is used as a vapor barrier. |
Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling from the inside
The bathhouse is insulated from the inside in the following order: ceiling - walls - floor. The main part of the heat in the sauna escapes through the ceiling, so
The thickness of the ceiling insulation is twice the thickness of the wall insulation and is at least 10 cm.
Regardless of the material of the walls of the bathhouse, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.
When insulating ceilings, foil is mandatory.
Insulation of a frame bath from the inside
For insulation frame bath Rolled mineral insulation is most often used.
The thickness of the insulation depends on the type of operation of the bathhouse: if you plan to heat it only in the summer, a layer of 5 cm is enough; if you plan to heat the bathhouse all year round, the insulation layer should be 10-15 cm (depending on the climate zone).
To insulate the walls of a frame bath from the inside:
- Insulation is placed in the interbeam space of the structure;
- The next layer is vapor barrier (foil);
- Ventilation gap;
- Sheathing.
Foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that there are no even the slightest holes or damage in it, and that all joints are well taped with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold together with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).
Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands: log house
Insulating a chopped and well-caulked bathhouse from the inside would be a tragic mistake. This is not only pointless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of a chopped bathhouse.
Log houses for baths are made for two reasons:
- To get classical Russian steam bath, which takes a long time to heat and maintains the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually “gives it away”. In this case, the inside of the bathhouse cannot be lined; You will also have to come to terms with the high consumption of firewood.
- For the image. No bathhouse looks as cool in appearance as a chopped one. But I often don’t want to waste time and firewood; I want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard cladding are done. The log house works only as an external frame; the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bathhouse.
It happens that a person already gets ready sauna from a log house, and various reasons she may be cold. Such a bathhouse can be insulated, but only from the outside.
The pie looks like this:
- insulation;
- wind protection;
- vertical sheathing to create ventilation gap;
- outer skin.
And you can put foil on the inside and line it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.
In a chopped bathhouse, only the floor and ceiling are insulated!
If the ceiling of a chopped bathhouse is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use insulation, but then the following is poured onto the ceiling in a cold attic:
- ash;
- sand;
- expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules be different sizes);
- clay coating.
Insulation from the inside of a brick bath
Brick is not the best suitable material for the construction of a bathhouse, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick bathhouses begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of brick, such a bathhouse needs insulation in mandatory. Insulation is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bathhouse look cool from the outside, decorative jointing is done.
Usually the insulated wall pie brick bath looks like this:
- brickwork;
- waterproofing,
- insulation;
- vapor barrier;
- sheathing
Waterproofing between brickwork and insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and waterproofed from the foundation, they will not become damp. If there is no confidence in the walls, then it is better to do waterproofing.
Insulation on brick walls The bathhouse is attached to the frame.
Insulation of a bathhouse made of blocks from the inside
For the construction of a bathhouse, durable and moisture-resistant blocks of expanded clay concrete are preferred. The insulation of such a bathhouse is thought out at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the icy mass of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows you to solve this problem by constructing a frame wall from boards with an indentation from the walls of the bathhouse. It is suitable for insulating all baths with stone walls.
To ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, several vents are made in the walls of the bathhouse, at the top and at the bottom outside. The vents are closed while people are steaming in the bathhouse; the rest of the time they are open for drying.
Insulation cake for steam rooms and washrooms using this technology:
- concrete wall with vents;
- insulation on the frame-wall (with indentation from concrete wall);
- frame-wall;
- foil;
- finishing 50th unedged board(aspen, linden or cedar) to get solid wood in the steam room.
With this approach, there is no need to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between steaming sessions.
But many owners of a block bathhouse insulate it from the inside traditionally:
- concrete wall;
- insulation (attached to the frame);
- foil;
- ventilation gap;
- lining.
Such a bathhouse needs insulation from the outside as well.
Bathroom floor insulation
Precious bath heat it also goes through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. To insulate the floor in a bathhouse, it is recommended to use expanded clay as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.
Expanded clay is poured between layers of concrete floor as follows:
- pour the first layer of concrete;
- wait until it hardens completely;
- pour expanded clay (layer thickness - 10 cm);
- install reinforced grating.
- pour a layer of concrete;
- make a cement-sand screed.
Summing up
A good bath is a warm bath. And in order for it to warm up well to the required temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.published
Subscribe to our Yandex Zen channel!
If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.
They build baths according to different technologies from different materials. Inner like necessary element baths, depends on it common device. Brick and foam block baths require mandatory insulation and waterproofing.
The need to insulate log houses from is considered in each individual case.
Which bathhouse needs insulation from the inside? Which ones to use? How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside? Let's figure it out.
Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: Materials for insulation
ATTENTION! Between the vapor barrier material and the lining it is necessary to leave small space. Air gap becomes an additional heat-insulating layer and allows it to function natural ventilation inside the walls and ceiling.
wooden bath
If . A bathhouse built from logs or beams retains heat better than others. The need for insulation depends on the thickness of the wall material.
block baths
The choice of heat-insulating materials is determined not only by good heat retention, but also no overshoot toxic substances with strong heating. Pay attention to combined insulation materials, they can significantly simplify work.
For finishing you need to use soft wood. The lining must be carefully processed and in no case coated with any chemical compounds.
The work of insulating all parts of the bathhouse from the inside: floor, walls, ceiling, etc. is quite complex, but quite doable even without special knowledge of construction.
It’s a shame after building a bathhouse to find that the structure cools down quickly, and the heat is not the same. The reason can only be one thing - improper thermal insulation of the steam room. To ensure that insulating your sauna with your own hands does not become a disappointment, study the advice of experts!
Thermal insulation of a sauna - the principle of a thermos
Seventy percent of the heat in a bath or sauna is so-called radiant heat. That is, heating occurs not due to an increase in air temperature (or rather, not only due to it), but due to heat rays from the stove or heated stones. In the same way, you warm yourself by a fire - even at a distance you feel warmth, and this heat is not from heated air, but from the rays emanating from the fire itself. Once you put a barrier between the fire and you, you will stop feeling these rays.
Task at proper insulation– keep these rays inside the steam room, otherwise it will heat up for a long time and cool down quickly.
Imagine an ordinary thermos with tea. If hot liquid were inside a regular metal can, the heat would escape through the walls. But in a thermos, the rays are reflected from the foil, so the tea does not cool down so quickly. The same “thermos effect” must be created inside the bathhouse using heat-insulating materials. One of the most popular misconceptions is the belief that it is enough to line the walls with insulation and eurolining, and the job is done.
In fact, as we already understand, thermal insulation of a sauna and bathhouse is a much more complex process. However, not so much that everyone who wants to can’t do it. The second misconception, or rather, the desire for naturalness, leads people to insulate with materials that are prone to rotting - we are talking about insulation with moss. Moss at high humidity not only rots, but is also capable of infecting the tree with rot. True, there is an exception - red building moss. But it is also susceptible to a problem that no one thinks about at first - all kinds of bugs and birds can tear your insulation system into small pieces.
How to insulate - all about insulation materials
For insulation of baths and saunas, they are most often used, basalt fiber. What makes these materials good is their durability, fire resistance and moisture resistance. In addition, they are not afraid of rotting. For convenience, manufacturers produce such insulation in the form of rolls, mats or slabs.
Baths are also insulated with organic materials, such as wood concrete - these are blocks made from a mixture of sawdust and cement. Such blocks can be made independently and used even in those climatic zones, Where low temperatures. True, such insulation has a significant drawback - it is flammable. However, if you make the blocks yourself, you can add substances to the solution that make the wood fire-resistant. With the help of wood concrete, you can significantly save on the construction of a bathhouse, but it is still recommended to cover the steam room area with the same mineral wool - as they say, out of harm’s way.
Polymer-based materials - polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam - are well suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms. Again, fire resistance is not listed among their qualities, so it is better not to use them in steam rooms where there is a high chance of fire. In addition to insulation, you should also take care of vapor barrier. For these purposes, inexpensive roofing felt and glassine are most often used, but such savings are harmful to health.
When heated, these materials release toxins that easily enter the human body through the lungs. Aluminum foil or heat-insulating materials with foil coating can solve two problems at once - this is not only vapor barrier, but also reflection of heat back into the room. Manufacturers go further by offering fiberglass mats covered with foil. When working with such, the task is simplified - the whole process is reduced to almost one step.
Insulating a sauna with your own hands - step by step!
We've sorted out the materials, now it's the turn of the insulation process itself. Let’s say right away that this process is not simple and quite expensive, but isn’t it worth it? By all standard schemes Bathroom insulation begins from the floor. And it’s not just about reducing the degree of displacement warm air cold, but also about the comfort of people - walking on a warm, heated floor in a hot steam room bare feet much nicer.
How to insulate a sauna with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Insulating the floor
When installing a solid floor, the insulation is laid on a rough plank floor, and a waterproofing layer is in turn attached on top of it, so that its edges extend onto the walls by at least 10 centimeters. After this, the finished floor is laid.
The design of leaking floors is more complex. To begin with, a pit half a meter deep is dug, which is filled to 5 cm with sand. The sand is compacted, and 20 cm thick foam plastic slabs are laid on it. They need to be filled with a five-centimeter layer of a mixture of cement and foam chips (1:1). Waterproofing is laid on the concrete and again filled with a layer of cement with vermiculite (also 1:1) 5 cm thick. Then the reinforcing mesh is spread and concrete with fine crushed stone is poured. Concrete is taken in such a way as to ensure a slope towards the drainage. Once the screed has hardened properly, the finished floor is laid.
Step 2: Lathing walls and ceilings
The technology for insulating walls and ceilings is almost identical, so the work is not divided into two stages, but is carried out simultaneously. First you need to lath the surfaces. If you have a sawmill at home, you can easily make the bars you need measuring 50*50 mm. They need to be stuffed vertically, keeping a distance slightly less than the width of the insulation. As a result, we get miniature niches in which the insulation is straightened. This way it will take its place more tightly.
Step 3: Insulation
If you chose fiberglass or mineral wool, then due to their elasticity they will not need any fastening - just cut the required pieces and straighten them between the sheathing. The recommended insulation thickness, depending on the climate of the region, is from 50 to 100 mm; the colder the region, the larger the insulation layer. The ceiling is always insulated with a double portion of materials.
All the benefits of a bathhouse may be unattainable if at the stage of its finishing the question internal insulation has not been worked out thoroughly enough. Even with proper construction according to a time-tested design, the walls of a bathhouse without additional thermal insulation will not be able to adequately retain heat. This means a decrease in comfort during bathing procedures and an increase in the cost of kindling. Meanwhile, there are many options how to ensure that unacceptable heat losses are avoided.
What is the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the inside?
What materials should be used for internal insulation of a bathhouse? For the longest time in the practice of building baths they have been using natural materials , which were available throughout the history of the existence of such structures. Our ancestors often insulated the internal surfaces of bathhouse walls with improvised materials: hemp hemp, flax tow, moss, etc. All of the above are still used today, because... natural materials have a very significant advantage over other thermal insulation: they are absolutely environmentally friendly.
However natural insulation materials has some features that significantly reduce their attractiveness. Firstly, the process of finishing a bathhouse with natural thermal insulation is a very, very labor-intensive process. Even with all the simplicity of the technology, caulking a bathhouse with moss or tow will take an excessive amount of time.
Secondly, natural materials are attractive not only to the owner of the bathhouse. Birds and small rodents love to take them away for their own needs, and insects can easily live in the moss layer, which also does not contribute to the durability of the material. Therefore, insulating a bath from natural materials requires regular updating.
More modern synthetic materials completely devoid of these disadvantages. While no less environmentally friendly, they have a much longer service life, and in terms of thermal insulation parameters they even surpass natural alternatives.
In addition, synthetic materials are not at all afraid of exposure to moisture and the high temperatures typical for a bath, they are lightweight and simple technology working with them.
Among the synthetic thermal insulation materials suitable for interior decoration baths, most widespread expanded polystyrene, basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool. When deciding how and what is the best way to insulate a bathhouse inside, you need to understand that, despite the same purpose, each of these materials also has some differences.
- Expanded polystyrene. Its main feature is good combination excellent thermal insulation, low cost and low weight. However, in relation to a bathhouse, this material can only be used to insulate the external walls of the dressing room. In the washing room, due to high temperatures, polystyrene foam can lose its shape, thereby compromising the thermal insulation. It is generally unacceptable to use this material to insulate a steam room, since it is a fire hazard.
- Insulation made from basalt fibers cannot boast of a pleasant price tag, but in relation to a bathhouse they can become ideal solution. Since basalt fiber is made from molten rocks, it has some important features:
- absolute non-flammability;
- resistance to mechanical deformation and moisture;
- excellent level of sound absorption;
- excellent thermal insulation.
Basalt insulation is quite convenient for finishing, as it can be easily cut into pieces. required form. Their service life, which can reach several decades, is also noteworthy.
Other advantages of mineral wool include the following:
- low thermal conductivity (guarantee of reliable thermal insulation);
- hydrophobicity, allowing the use of mineral wool in conditions of high humidity;
- ability to absorb sound.
Meanwhile, mineral wool, due to the characteristics of the raw materials for its production, is no different mechanical strength. Therefore, it is advisable to exercise some caution when working with such material.
Video about how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside.
One of the significant advantages of glass wool over analogues is its relatively low cost. At the same time, it is always possible to select the insulation of the required thickness. Available as glass wool rolls different widths, and industrially cut mats and slabs.
And in this photo is one of the schemes for insulating a bathhouse from the inside.
Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside
Features of insulation interior walls is in the bathhouse high level humidity. Therefore, even if moisture-insensitive thermal insulation is selected, insulation will be required cover securely with a layer of vapor barrier. If this is not done, moisture will begin to condense inside the insulating material, which can lead to a decrease in the ability to retain heat and the possibility of rotting of the wall material.
Aluminum foil can be used as a vapor barrier for baths, which not only protects the insulation from condensation, but also largely reflects heat. To ensure the integrity of the vapor barrier, all seams between the sheets of foil should be taped with metallized tape.
Since the conditions in the bathhouse are various rooms differ significantly, then the insulation technology will vary significantly.
- Insulation of walls in the steam room.
Here the sequence of actions will be as follows:
- dry lathing is hung on the surface of the walls wooden beam or slats;
- the cells formed by the lathing slats are covered with fiberglass cloth;
- fits heat insulating material(basalt is best);
- A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of everything.
The final stage of wall insulation in the steam room will be installation decorative finishing. As such, it is best to use wooden lining.
Another video about insulating a bathhouse from the inside and how to line a steam room inside.
This operation is in many ways similar to improving the thermal insulation of walls. The differences will be that when insulating the ceiling in the washing room and in the dressing room, you can refuse to use aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. Instead, it is quite possible to use cheaper polyethylene or kraft paper.
In addition, it is worth leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative ceiling cladding. This distance will improve the ventilation of the cladding material to speed up its drying. This moment is quite important, since during bath procedures the ceiling lining is exposed to destructive impact moisture at very high temperatures. The presence of a gap will allow the wood not to rot, but to dry out without deteriorating its performance and aesthetic qualities.
Heat loss in a bathhouse can occur not only through the walls or ceiling, but also through the floor, which is especially important in winter time. Therefore, floors must also be carefully insulated. The sequence of actions for floor insulation will be as follows:
- a concrete screed is poured onto the leveled and compacted base of the earthen floor;
- after the screed has hardened, a layer of waterproofing made of dense polyethylene or roofing felt is lined;
- sheets or fabrics of insulation are laid;
- another layer of waterproofing is lined;
- another layer of concrete screed is poured.
Since the floors in the bathhouse are constantly in contact with water, when insulating them, careful installation of the waterproofing should be given the greatest possible attention.
It is very important that water, even with minor damage to the top layer of the concrete screed, cannot penetrate the insulation layer and thereby deprive it of its heat-insulating qualities.
Having solved the problem of how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you can get a guarantee that it will be possible to quickly warm up all the rooms even in severe frosts. The bathing event itself will become much more comfortable, since the temperature will be consistently high.
This is especially important for those who like to take a deep steam bath, since if the thermal insulation of the steam room is insufficient, the procedure will lose its attractiveness. By using modern insulating materials, you can get rid of such problems forever.