There is a lot of humidity in the basement. What to do if there is dampness in the basement? Incorrect blind area around the building

How to urgently dry a storage room and what to do to keep it always dry in the future

“My cellar wept. There are constant drops of water on the ceiling, the wooden hatch is wet through, the carrots and cabbage have long since rotted, the potatoes are still holding on,” a FORUMHOUSE participant writes. Syava_1.

A "weeping" cellar is always a big problem. How to dry it urgently and what to do to no longer face increased dampness? We tell what the participants of our portal do.

For high-quality storage of vegetables, the temperature in the cellar should not be higher than +5 degrees, the air should be clean and fresh, but without drafts.

BogAD Member FORUMHOUSE

The Russian scientist A. T. Bolotov wrote more than two centuries ago that there should be no damp and musty air in the room where vegetables are stored - the vegetables will rot. And at the same time, he notes that there should be no draft, because it will dry out our vegetables.

But you can’t overdry the cellar either, there is even data from observations by FORUMHOUSE participants of their cellars, which indicate that excess moisture is not as dangerous for storing vegetables as excessive dryness.

The humidity level for optimal storage of stocks should be 70-80%.

Having measured the temperature and relative humidity in the cellar with a thermometer and hygrometer, we bring them into line with the desired indicators (recommendations BogAD):

• If it is cold in the cellar (the temperature in winter is below +2 0 C), we insulate the basement or work.
• If it is too warm in the cellar (the temperature is above +5 0 C), we lower it by isolating the cellar area from heat sources. Provide adequate ventilation and isolate the area from heat sources.
• A slight excess of relative humidity is corrected by ventilation.
• With a significant excess of relative humidity (abundant condensate on the walls and ceiling), we make waterproofing, and then we are already engaged in ventilation.
• If the air is musty - the ventilation system does not correspond to the area or is absent, we eliminate this omission.
• If drafts are walking around the cellar, the ventilation system also needs to be upgraded, it may be enough just to add a damper to the inlet.

Based on the diagnosis that was made to the cellar, a work plan is drawn up. But there are situations when a stored crop needs emergency help, and there are several ways to provide it.

The picture on the left shows the cellar dehumidification scheme, which FORUMHOUSE participant DoctorBo I saw it in some book from Soviet times.

DoctorBo Member of FORUMHOUSE

The light bulb warms the air, it rises through the open basement hatch.

On the right picture - an improved, modernized scheme, in which the light bulb is located not under the hatch, but under the chimney. This scheme is better, especially when we are not dealing with a cellar, which is located under the building - then the air does not go into the house, but outside it.

Variants of this method, successfully tested by the participants of our portal:

1. A light bulb from the refrigerator is inserted directly into the pipe, 5-7 cm.
2. If the light bulb does not fit in the pipe.

Glebomater Member of FORUMHOUSE

Put a lampshade on the bottom of the pipe, there is a light bulb in it. The light bulb is on, heats the air in the lampshade, the draft starts to work.

Instead of a light bulb, you can use a candle (to avoid fire hazards, put the candle in a tin). It is better that the candle is as close to the floor as possible, and to improve traction, the exhaust pipe is lengthened by building a tin link on it.

A burning candle or light bulb accelerates air circulation, intensively ventilates the cellar. The musty atmosphere of the cellar is replaced by fresh air, and the cellar is usually completely dry within a few days.

If we use dry alcohol tablets instead of a candle or a light bulb, then we will get an additional advantage: alcohol combustion products have antiseptic properties.

Member of FORUMHOUSE topos proposes to involve the science of chemistry in the service of draining the cellar.

topos Member FORUMHOUSE

1 kg of dry calcium chloride takes 1.5 kg of water. Buy 50-100 kg. Downloading. A day later, you clean it, dry it (calcine it) and load it again. Merry work.

You can also use a good household dehumidifier (such as they drain pools), a heat gun. Or put an ordinary oil cellar in the center of the cellar - in this case, drying will be carried out due to thermal radiation. But this process is long and expensive (it may take several weeks of continuous operation of the device). Most importantly, without proper ventilation of the cellar, the desired effect with the help of a heater can hardly be achieved.

topos

To drive air with an electric heater is a stupid thing when the ground is wet, the air is moist and there is no ventilation. You will create a regular bath. You need exhaust ventilation with air intake near the basement floor.

For storage of supplies in the cellar, weak ventilation will be sufficient. Strong ventilation is more likely to hurt.

Jeeper FORUMHOUSE moderator-consultant

By strong ventilation, you disturb the climate in the cellar - for example, you can cool it down a lot in winter, and heat it up a lot in summer. This contributes to the formation of condensation and mold.

Nevertheless, competent, well-thought-out cellar ventilation is the key to successful storage of vegetables until the next season.

Tocon FORUMHOUSE Member

The ventilation began to work, the cellar stopped crying (before that, one might say, it roared without ceasing).

Ventilation in cellars and cellars is arranged as follows:

An exhaust pipe is installed on the north side of the basement, which drops 10-15 cm relative to the ceiling.

A supply pipe is installed on the south side, which should drop to a level of 10-20 cm above the floor.

Usually pipes are installed diagonally, in opposite corners of the cellar. To avoid the formation of condensate in the cellar in the summer, the exhaust openings are closed for the warm season, and they also make sure that the lid is tightly closed and insulated from heat as much as possible (for this, you can put a piece of foam on it). In autumn, when the temperature outside is lower than in the cellar, the cellar lid is opened and left open until the temperature in it is about +2 - +3 degrees. The warm, moist air of the cellar will be replaced by dry and cold air from the street, so during such ventilation, the damp cellar usually dries out quickly.

For the winter, with the exception of especially frosty days, only the inflow is closed.

Efh Member FORUMHOUSE

I can advise you to leave one hood open for the winter and insulate the pipe itself well (so that it doesn’t drag on with a jacket). No stitching, and nothing will freeze.

Some participants of our portal do not have ventilation in the cellar, but condensate does not form in it, since the causes of dampness were different - bad and cold walls and floors. Sometimes these shortcomings are easy to eliminate, and sometimes a global alteration of the cellar is required.

Private construction always implies the presence of an attic and a basement.

And if there are usually no problems with the upper rooms in the house, arranged in the attic, then dampness in the basement is a frequent phenomenon.

Many people face such a problem as dampness in the basement, which arises from saving money.

A house with a basement is especially convenient, because in this case you get additional space where you can store a huge amount of useful things in the household. In addition, in the basement you can equip a workshop and do what you love. It often happens that construction is carried out according to an “economical” project, with a violation of technology. Such an ill-conceived approach leads to the occurrence of a destructive factor in the basement - moisture..

As a result, the design is gradually undermined, and at the same time mold fungus occurs. Not only the appearance deteriorates, but also a threat to the health of people living in the house. Of course, homeowners try to eliminate basement dampness. But to do it right, you need to start by identifying the cause. Often, water penetrates by capillary action, through the ceiling, walls, and sometimes in a direct way if there are cracks. If ventilation is insufficient, water will condense from the air. Having identified what the problem lies, you can start the fight.

Where to begin?

First of all, starting the main work, it is required to pump out water from the basement, if it is available there. The room must be thoroughly ventilated. If possible, it is very good to dry it with a fan, a special heat gun, sometimes a regular hair dryer will help. Since capillary cracks are the source of moisture in the basement, they should be immediately disposed of. For this purpose, a careful inspection is carried out, cracks of any size are detected. Sometimes it is necessary to partially or even completely dismantle the heat-insulating coating of the ceiling, walls, remove the floor covering.

With external waterproofing, it is required to inspect the structure from the outside. Often the cause of dampness in the basement is an improperly equipped drainage system. It includes slopes on the windows, roof, over the porch, as well as a system of downpipes with directional action. Such pipes are designed to drain water into an underground funnel or into ground gutters. It also requires a drainage system around the house. If some of these components are missing, and even more so if they are not completely, then such a deficiency is eliminated at the very beginning of the action.

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The underground part of the outer walls: protection

To provide protection to the outer walls, it is required to remove the old blind area. Next, you need to dig a hole, its width should be about half a meter beyond the outer walls of the basement. So that you can go down to it to carry out work. The outer wall of the house must be thoroughly dried. Sometimes this is done naturally, or a forced method can be applied. The wall is coated with antifungal compounds, which are offered in a large assortment in hardware stores.

The next step is to coat the walls with bituminous mastic. Sometimes they use clay, concrete based on liquid glass. An optional stage includes an underground blind area, which is made of sheet roofing material. For this purpose, the sheet is fixed on the wall, its level should exceed the ground by 0.5 m. After the pit is filled up, a blind area is equipped. In this case, you can apply various types of soft roofing. It should be emphasized that if it is difficult for you to excavate, then only the last item can be used for a while.

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Internal basement waterproofing

Getting rid of dampness in the cellar begins with drying the room. Next, you need to eliminate crumbling coatings, clear the cracks. Cement mortar is used for sealing. After these steps, everything should be smeared with a waterproofing solution, for example, the simplest tool is bituminous mastic. In the presence of pressure leaks, careful sealing is required, in which case alabaster is suitable. To enhance the effect, the walls are plastered completely one m from the floor surface. Although many experts believe that this step is not required. You can build new walls using moisture-resistant material. If the basement is large, then new brickwork is recommended.

The distance between the old wall and the new one is at least 3 cm. Particular attention is paid to drilling holes between the walls, since the air located there must go through the ventilation holes. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate between the walls. Sometimes dampness occurs due to the old floor, even if there is a concrete screed. To correct the situation, the decorative floor covering is removed and the cracks found in the concrete are sealed.

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Proper foundation waterproofing

To ensure proper waterproofing, you will need to build brickwork. In addition, in the basement is mandatory internal ventilation. It is important that it must be supply and exhaust. The simplest scheme is two pipes, one of which goes out under the ceiling, starting almost from the floor. The second pipe is placed under the ceiling, it also leads outside. All external parts of pipes must be protected from rain and melt water. Dampness in the cellar contributes to the development of mold, and it must be dealt with. The main enemies of mold can be considered dryness and oxygen.

Dry air is ensured by the arrangement of good ventilation. Sometimes, for various reasons, this is not possible, and then you should ventilate the basement as often as possible. Do not forget that even if the fungus has disappeared, if conditions worsen and dampness increases, it can return. Wall treatment begins after drying and treatment with various antifungal agents.

The gardening season seems to be over, and worries and troubles do not become less. And, perhaps, the most important thing is to preserve everything that was grown and harvested. We devoted the previous issue to homemade vegetables and fruits. We hope that our recommendations will be useful to many of you. However, I want to keep the grown and harvested crop not only in canned, but also fresh. This is what will be discussed this time. For useful recommendations, we again turned to a practitioner - the leading researcher of the processing and storage department of the Republican Unitary Enterprise "Institute of Fruit Growing", Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Maria Maksimenko.

Photo by Maxim Evening

First of all, it is necessary to test the places where vegetables and fruits are stored - cellars, cellars, and so on. Their biggest problem is dampness. Because of it, mold appears, potatoes, carrots, beets and other root crops rot, cabbage and pumpkins, apples and pears deteriorate. By the way, even seaming can suffer due to dampness. As a result, the work of the entire season will be nullified. But before you start fighting dampness, you need to decide what caused it, the expert advises.

We go down to the cellar

The cellar is a special building. And with the usual standards, for example, as a house, you can’t approach it. If humidity of 65% is optimal for you and me, then for most vegetables and fruits a humidity of 70% is already critical - they begin to wither, dry, lose nutrients and, of course, are poorly stored. Each fruit has its own requirements. But if the entire horticultural crop is harvested in one place (which, of course, is not entirely correct), then the optimal level of air humidity should be in the range of 85-90%.

Humidity is not temperature, it cannot be measured by sensations. It is better to use instruments - a psychrometer or a hygrometer.

To determine the cause of dampness, a small test can be performed. If the floor in the storage is earthen, this will not be difficult at all. Dig holes (about the size of a bucket) in the cellar next to the walls and monitor them regularly. If the bottom begins to get wet in them, then, most likely, groundwater is high. It may happen that water does not appear at the bottom of all test recesses, but only in some: it means that an underground stream flows under the cellar.

When moisture seeps in from the outside (facing the street) wall of the pit, it is most likely surface water, rain, or melt water. Well, if the water evenly moistened the entire inner surface of the hole, then most likely it is condensate.

If puddles regularly stand in the cellar (and this is the most difficult case), then this is possible in two cases: the construction technology is violated or the place is simply unsuccessfully chosen. But there is only one way out - the construction of a new storage facility.

Take care of ventilation

The key to good storage is good ventilation. And it should not be one pipe, but two - with inflow and exhaust, with a diameter of at least 125 mm. The bottom of the supply pipe is placed at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. Through it comes air from the street. The second pipe ends almost under the ceiling - 10 cm below its level. This is an extractor. Ventilation pipes on the street should be covered with umbrellas so that foliage and precipitation do not fall into them. The exhaust pipe should be higher and it is better to install a deflector on it to activate the draft - a special aerodynamic device. Also, the pipe can be painted black: due to heating from the sun, traction will be better.

It is desirable that the supply and exhaust pipes be spaced apart in different corners of the cellar: then the air flows will wash the entire room.

Ventilation pipes must be insulated so that they do not freeze in winter, and condensate collectors and valves should be installed on them. The valves will allow you to reduce the flow of air in winter so that the cellar does not cool too much in cold weather.

Good ventilation will regulate humidity, eliminate excess moisture, prevent mold and help dry storage faster.

BY THE WAY

For good draft, make the ventilation ducts straight. If a side diversion is necessary, then the angle of inclination must be at least 60 degrees, and the length of the inclined section must not exceed 100 cm.

With stove and candle

Sometimes dampness appears in dry storage. Again - check the ventilation: if its channels are clogged. If they cleaned it, and nothing has changed, then the exhaust pipe is not working well. This often happens when the air in the cellar is colder than outside. Heavy and cold, it will not rise up the pipe itself. A paradoxical, at first glance, situation arises: when it was cold and damp outside, it was dry in the cellar. It got warmer, and drops of moisture hung on the ceiling and walls - a musty smell appeared. To dry the cellar, it is necessary to accelerate the movement of air.

Usually in such cases, stoves, kerosene gases are installed in the storage and the walls are heated. But this is a complex and laborious task. Someone puts a stove, and someone turns on a blowtorch. However, all this is fraught with undesirable consequences: the cellar may not be dried, and the house may be lost due to a fire. Yes, and you should not deal with such heating alone: ​​it is necessary that someone insure you after all. First, the temperature is high. Secondly, smoke accumulates inside and maybe even carbon monoxide.

It is better, having filled an old leaky bucket or any other metal container with glowing coals, lower them into the vegetable store, securing it so that it hangs above the floor. Once every 20-30 minutes, the cellar lid must be opened to let in an additional portion of oxygen. You can put a fan on the supply pipe. When the coals burn out, remove the bucket and close the lid tightly. Do not look inside for three days: smoke and gases will not only dry the room, but at the same time kill the mold, disinfect the cellar.

Often, coke or coal is used instead of charcoal. They burn longer and give a higher temperature, but they also require more oxygen.

Sometimes enough draft for drying can be created in another, simpler way - with a candle. This "old-fashioned method" is suitable if there is no electricity and there is nowhere to turn on the fan. Extend the ventilation pipe down, almost to the floor. Place a burning candle in a tin can under it. To create an initial draft, light the paper directly in the pipe, and later the flame of a candle will suffice. The air in the pipe will warm up and a normal draft will arise, which will pull the damp air from the floor. In two or three days, it is quite possible to dry the cellar. Instead of candles, dry alcohol tablets are also used.

To get rid of rain and melt water penetrating the cellar, a blind area and drainage are made around the structure. Proper waterproofing will save the walls from getting wet.

With groundwater, everything is much more complicated. If the floor is earthen, then you can create an additional gravel cushion that will break the capillarity of the soil. Gravel or sand is poured until the humidity decreases and the groundwater level drops.

Nice solution and clay. It is known to be a natural moisture regulator. But today in the cellars, unfortunately, adobe floors and clay plaster on the walls are rarely made.

If you decide to make a clay castle, remove 6-7 cm of earthen floor, lay a layer of clay, level its surface and cover with a plastic film folded in half. You can use roofing felt, but it breaks and breaks more often, although it seems to be more durable.

Pour another layer of clay on top (concrete can also be poured) and tamp everything well. When the clay dries, the humidity in the cellar will decrease and the air will become noticeably drier.

You can not cover the film with anything - leave it like that. And so that it does not tear when you walk on it, knock down wooden shields and lay them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime under them. They will collect moisture, and mold fungi will not be allowed to roam.

If water droplets accumulate on the ceiling (this is condensation), then the ceilings are poorly insulated. You can fix this by additionally insulating the top of the cellar. And to quickly remove drops, walk along the ceiling with a rubber plate. Sticking, it will "push" the drops, which can be immediately collected in a bucket.

Folk and scientific methods

Ceramic bricks will quickly dry the air in the storage. It is enough to heat them up and lay them out in the corners and along the walls. When hot, they will actively absorb moisture in the room. And when it cools down, heat it up again.

Whitewashing with lime also gives good results - it actively “collects” moisture from the air. Therefore, before draining the basement, it makes sense to whitewash everything. Only it is necessary to apply on the walls not a thin, but a thick layer of lime. And it would be nice to add a little diluted copper sulphate to a bucket of thick whitewash. He is an excellent disinfectant. But its concentration should not be higher than 5%. Divide the resulting liquid into two parts.

After the first painting, wait a couple of days until everything dries. Whiten again. As a result, the walls and ceiling are porous and uneven. But condensation rarely hangs on them: lime retains moisture well inside.

It absorbs moisture and calcium chloride well: 1 kg of dry matter absorbs 1.5 liters of water. It is laid out, collected in a day, heated or calcined and used again. You just need to work carefully: chlorine and calcium vapors are also toxic!

You can do it even easier: pour dry sawdust in the cellar. When they get wet, throw them out and put in new ones. Of course, this method will not dry the basement, but it will reduce the humidity in it. There will definitely not be a drop of condensate on the ceiling.

Or you can completely arrange empty cardboard boxes - they absorb moisture very well. After 10-15 hours, remove the wet and sour ones, and put new ones in their place.

Salt and ash are also good adsorbents. True, they will perform their function only until they absorb the maximum amount of moisture.

Acid them!

High humidity leads to the fact that mold and fungi appear on the walls, ceiling shelves - different types, colors and aromas. Did you know that they are acid intolerant? Therefore, they can be washed off with citric, boric or acetic acid. You can treat the walls with diesel fuel, and whitewash the top with lime.

The best way is to treat with freshly slaked lime. The vapors generated when it is extinguished will destroy insects, mold and fungi. However, such vapors are also deadly to humans, so take all precautions! Put on rubber gloves and a bandage over your face. Take quicklime lump lime at the rate of 2-3 kg per 10 cubic meters. m of the volume of the cellar, put it in a tank or barrel, fill it with water, do not interfere (!) And leave the cellar immediately. Close doors and ventilation pipes tightly. For tightness, caulk them with clay. Keep the cellar closed for two days, then open and ventilate thoroughly. If a lot of pests have divorced, repeat the treatment after 5-6 days.

Sulfur is also used for disinfection: per 1 cu. m of the volume of the cellar, it is burned 40-50 g. But you must be especially careful with it: fumigate only rooms that are not adjacent to residential buildings!

It is very good to disinfect storages also with sulfuric bombs - it is effective and safe. The checker perfectly copes with ticks, other harmful insects, pathogens, fungi, rot on wooden structures. The smell of gas will scare off rodents for a long time.

Uninvited guests

Mice and rats are not only unwanted, but also dangerous guests in the vault. Take a close look at the walls, seal the cracks with special care with cement, tin or brick, and close all ventilation ducts with metal mesh so that no rodents can penetrate there. Since they cannot stand the smell of naphthalene, mix it in equal parts with sawdust and sprinkle it near their loopholes, passages, minks. They also do not like the aroma of black root, wild mint. Dried plants spread near their nests will put the rodents to flight.

Mice can't stand the smell of burnt rubber. Therefore, you can fumigate the cellar with rubber smoke. Place an old bucket of glowing coals on a pallet of sand and place pieces of old car tires or overshoes on them.

Of course, poisons can be used to control rodents. But we must be careful that they do not get pets, the same cats. Most often, "Zookumarin" is used (50 g per 1 kg of bait) - 0.5 g per 1 sq. m. Some people mix malt or sugar into a container with quicklime, and put dishes with water next to them. Eaten lime causes thirst, and after drinking water, the rat dies.

You can lay out poisoned baits and "tastier" (bread with potatoes, poured with sunflower oil, cottage cheese, minced meat or fish, etc.). But since rodents can move the bait to another place by dragging it over vegetables, it is better to use mousetraps or rat traps (traps) during storage. However, before installation (as well as after each “catch”), do not forget to rinse them well with boiling water to remove excess odors.

The cause of dampness can be determined by the location of the moisture.

* If droplets form on the ceiling and walls - poor ventilation.

* Drips on walls only -- no vertical waterproofing of basement walls.

* Puddles on the floor - groundwater flooding.

ADVICE

Sphagnum peat will help protect fruits from rot and bacteria, purify the air, and stabilize air humidity. Pour it in at the rate of 10-15 kg per ton of fruits, and the losses will decrease by 2-3 times.

Peat is also used as a sorbent to remove unpleasant odors and an antiseptic. Potatoes, onions, turnips are perfectly preserved in peat dust. But it must be borne in mind that when laying it should be well dried. And mice do not like to settle in peat.

WIND ON THE US

It is easy to make a psychrometer yourself. To do this, you need two alcohol thermometers. Fix them next to each other on a common stand. Wrap the ball of one thermometer with damp gauze, but let the other remain dry. A wet bulb thermometer will indicate a lower temperature. From the data difference (see table), it will be possible to find out the relative humidity.

Dampness in the basement is an unpleasant phenomenon. What to do if it appears? Before you begin to deal with the problem, you need to find out the cause of the appearance of moisture in the house. Understanding the cause will help you choose effective methods and for a long time, and maybe forever get rid of such a nuisance as wet surfaces in the room.

Why is dampness dangerous?

Why is it necessary to remove excess moisture from the premises? The appearance of moisture in the basement can lead to unpleasant phenomena that are difficult to get rid of.. Condensation on surfaces causes the following effects:

• the appearance of mold and fungus;
• violation of the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises;
• violation of the operating conditions of building structures, which leads to destruction in the foundation and other load-bearing elements;
• the appearance in the premises of various microorganisms that are dangerous to humans and lead to serious diseases;
• wetting of walls and ceilings, violation of interior decoration.

Causes of the problem

There are several reasons why condensation may occur on the ceiling, floor and walls of the basement:

1. Basement ventilation problems. This can be caused by errors at the design or construction stage. Sometimes it happens that the ventilation ducts provided for by the norms are cut by incorrectly laid floor slabs or clogged with construction debris. The lack of normal ventilation leads to the fact that during cold weather, condensation forms in the basement, which is warm compared to the outside air, and the windows sweat.
2. Change in groundwater level. This problem is especially relevant in the spring, when the snow begins to melt actively, and the soil is oversaturated with moisture. The issue must be taken into account at the design stage and provide for a drainage system and reliable waterproofing of the basement. An increase in water in the soil leads to the fact that puddles appear on the floor. Their depth depends on the extent of the problem.
3. Why does such a phenomenon occur? The answer to the question will be - a violation of the foundation construction technology. If during construction attention is not paid to the vertical waterproofing of the basement walls, then during operation, moisture droplets will appear on them from the inside.

All these reasons why dampness appears in the basement are associated with the neglect of technology at the construction stage of the building.

Ways to fight

To understand what to do with dampness, it is necessary to correctly determine the reason why surfaces get wet. Further actions aimed at getting rid of excess moisture depend on its source. The cause can be determined by the location of the moisture.

• if droplets form on the ceiling and walls - the reason is insufficient ventilation;
• the formation of liquid drops only on the walls - the lack of vertical waterproofing of the basement walls;
• in the presence of puddles on the floor - the reason is flooding with groundwater.

Further steps are taken depending on the source of the problem.

Insufficient ventilation

If condensation has formed due to insufficient air exchange in the room, it can be removed by organizing additional ventilation. The same situation is relevant for the occurrence of dampness in the attic. This room also heats up, but at the same time it is in direct contact with the external environment.

The contact of warm air with cold surfaces is the main and only reason why condensation forms. With sufficient air exchange in the basement or in the attic of the house, the air heated from the interior is cooled. Condensation does not form.

Ventilation in the basement of a private house or in the attic can be done in two ways:

• natural;
• forced.

Natural includes air and ventilation ducts. According to the norms, the total area of ​​​​the vents must be at least one four hundredth of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Forced means the use of special equipment, the installation of which will require serious financial costs. The method is relevant only for large rooms.

To remove condensation on the ceiling and walls in the basement or in the attic, you must perform the following measures:

1. Thermal insulation of engineering networks. In the basement there are water and sewer pipes, the temperature of the liquid in which is higher than in the room. This causes condensation to form on their surface. To get rid of heat losses, it is necessary to make reliable thermal insulation protection for pipes that sweat precisely because of heat leakage into a cold space. Thermal insulation measures can be performed using special materials. Manufacturers of mineral wool, polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam produce special products that are convenient to put on pipes. Efficient materials allow you to remove heat leaks and get rid of the reason why the pipes sweat.
2. To eliminate dampness in the attic or in the basement of the house and the appearance of drops of moisture on the ceiling or walls, ventilation ducts or pipes are installed. After the construction of the house is completed, it is not possible to place ventilation ducts in the walls, so they are attached to vertical structures. To get rid of dampness on the ceiling and other surfaces, two pipes are provided in the room - supply and exhaust. They need to be done in different corners of the room, located at different heights from the floor.

After the reason why condensation appears in the attic or basement has been eliminated, the room is dehumidified.

Insufficient waterproofing

If the walls of the basement of the house (without a ceiling) are sweating, the reason is capillary moisture. You can get rid of it in one of the following ways:

1. Pasting waterproofing materials. They are presented on the construction market mainly by roofing material, linochrome and hydroisol. They are made on the basis of a canvas impregnated with bitumen. The gluing process is a rather labor-intensive undertaking. It is better to entrust such work to professionals.
2. You can protect the walls of the basement from moisture at home using bituminous mastic. In addition to it, polymer compositions and synthetic resins are used. The advantage of the method is the ability to do the work with your own hands. Minus - insufficient degree of protection. It is usually used together with pasting materials.
3. penetrating compounds. To get rid of capillary moisture, you can use compounds that penetrate concrete and increase its moisture resistance. The action is achieved by narrowing the pores in the structure. This method can be called highly effective, since not only the premises are protected, but also part of the supporting structure. The composition is able to penetrate to a greater thickness and prevent water damage to the foundation for many years.
4. Screens. This method is suitable for high pressure groundwater. Clay castle, geotextile or betonite become screens.

Work with any material is performed in the following sequence:

• removal of finishes from the walls, their cleaning;
• surface treatment with an antiseptic;
• primer;
• waterproofing walls and floors;
• finishing;
• a blind area around the perimeter of the building, if it is missing or damaged.
• draining the basement space.

Groundwater level rise

Wet walls due to high water levels in the soil is the most serious problem for a house presented. If the condensate does not require external measures, then in this case it is necessary to dig out the foundations. It is recommended to make waterproofing in the following order:

• excavation of the foundation;
• drainage device around the perimeter of the building;
• if necessary, strengthening the foundation;
• performance of external waterproofing (the same materials are used as in the previous case);
• performance of internal waterproofing;
• backfilling;
• blind area around the perimeter of the building;
• dehumidification of the room.

The method will require impressive financial and labor costs, but it will protect the foundations and basement from groundwater. The material is selected depending on the pressure of the water. Several methods can be used together, for example, penetrating compounds along with pasting waterproofing.

How to dry the cellar in the garage is a question that worries many owners of garage boxes. The work is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. First of all, it is important to understand the cause of the damp atmosphere, and only then proceed to eliminate it.

Mold has appeared in the garage, start looking for the cause, and only then proceed to dry the cellar.

Reasons for increasing air humidity

It is necessary to think about preventing increased moisture in the basement even during the construction of the garage, but if trouble occurs, you should pay attention to:

• the health of the cellar ventilation system. Check the air draft, perhaps the ventilation pipe is clogged or iced up in winter from condensate. In this case, you can consider yourself lucky. It will be much more difficult to fix another cause of moisture in the garage;
• perhaps the builders did not waterproof the basement or it is damaged. In this case, you will need to spend money on the purchase of a penetrating waterproofing composition or cover it with a layer of internal or external protection of the basement from water.

Only by eliminating the cause, you can begin to dry the cellar in the garage.

Damp removal work in the garage

The whole process is divided into several main stages, we will analyze each of them in more detail.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you will need to disassemble and remove all wooden parts from the cellar. To do this, you will need to disassemble the racks or shelves, lift the boxes and barrels for pickles. If the basement is equipped with a wooden floor, you will need to carefully disassemble it. If the wood is suitable for subsequent use, the boards are dried outside and treated with an antiseptic or whitened with lime.

If the humidity is low, you can try to dry the garage by opening the cellar hatch and boxing doors on a sunny, hot summer day. You may need to repeat this operation several times. If the dampness is negligible and the ventilation is working properly, such work can solve the problem of a damp wall.

To check the operation of ventilation, it is enough to light a paper or a lighter and bring it to the pipe. If the air does not pass well, the flame will burn evenly, with a good exhaust, the fire deviates and trembles, and may even go out completely. Cleaning ventilation pipes is easy. Lower the rope into the pipe, tie a brush or a rag to it in the basement and pull the brush up. Thus, the pipe will be cleaned, there will be no mold in the basement of the garage.

Cope with a small damp spot on the wall, in addition to natural ventilation, a brought container with charcoal, sawdust or lime will help. These materials absorb moisture, but after processing, do not leave a container with them in the cellar.

If the dampness in the basement is not removed using natural ventilation, you can proceed to radical methods. Before this, the walls and floor must be cleaned of dirt and plaque. To remove the fungus, in the garage, all surfaces are treated with a special impregnation or a concentrated solution of manganese.

If the floors in the garage are earth or clay, you will need to remove and remove the top layer, treat with manganese and cover with an even layer of sand or clay.

How to dry the basement in the garage, if simple methods did not work out? There are several ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar.

Methods for forced drying of the cellar.

There are several ways to get rid of dampness in the cellar, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

It's important to know! All work to dry the air in the basement should be carried out in the summer, during hot and dry weather.

How to dry the basement in the garage with a candle?

This is the oldest, proven way to deal with moist air. To do this, it is enough to install a large paraffin candle in a jar or other non-combustible container and install it near the ventilation pipe at a short distance from the floor. This allows you to increase the circulation of air masses and replace damp, musty air in the cellar.

During processing, the cellar lid must be open. With the help of a candle, damp air is replaced by dry atmospheric air and the wall gradually dries out. But the candle can go out with gusts of wind, so it is recommended to replace it with dry alcohol and a burner.

Continue processing until the wall is completely dry. Dry alcohol, when burned, releases chemical elements that work as antiseptics and help get rid of fungus in the basement. But you should stock up on a sufficient amount of the substance, it may take 15-20 tablets to process a small basement.

If candles and dry alcohol do not help, you do not get rid of moisture, try the following method.

Processing with a roaster

How to get rid of mold in the basement, perhaps a homemade brazier from an old bucket or a small barrel will help. Having made 2-3 holes in the upper and lower parts of the bucket, we install it on the ground. The brazier should stand at a distance of 60-70 mm from the floor. Several bricks can be used for the stand. You need to install a bucket under the hatch. Having securely hooked the hook with the cable to the shackle, we take it out to the garage.

Having loaded the first bookmark from coal and firewood, we ignite the mixture. It is impossible to be in the basement during processing, a large amount of carbon monoxide is released. Therefore, the subsequent bookmarks of fuel are carried out at the top, then the brazier goes down to the basement.

Due to the gap between the bucket and the floor, a natural draft is formed, it remains to monitor the combustion and lay firewood in time. Processing lasts for 12-15 hours. At the same time, hot smoke immediately begins to displace moisture from the room, will gradually dry the walls and remove harmful microflora and fungus. Firewood is best used from hardwood, acacia, birch will keep burning for a long time, remove an unpleasant odor.

But there are situations when more effective methods are required. How to dry the cellar in the garage after flooding, in this case, the treatment of the room will help with the help of electric heating devices of various power.

How to get rid of dampness with electricity?

Such treatment is carried out for quick relief in case of flooding or a significant level of air humidity. It prevents the defeat of the basement by fungal spores. In this case, you can use oil radiators, heat guns, converter heaters or infrared heaters. The work is carried out according to a similar scheme, but a person can go down to the cellar to transfer heaters.

The most important thing is to quickly remove moisture so that the treated surfaces become dry, like the air in the room. Be sure, after the first heating of the cellar, open the basement door to quickly remove stale air. The best option is a powerful heat gun. Such a device not only dries the air, but also ensures its circulation during processing.

But it should be understood that the use of powerful electric heaters will require additional costs to pay the energy bills.

How to remove dampness faster when processing with open fire, for this it is enough to connect several fans that will remove moist heated air and provide forced ventilation of the cellar. But if we process a small room, for the purpose of prevention before laying vegetables for the winter, it will be enough to use dry fuel with additional fumigation of the basement with a sulfur checker.

Such treatment will not only dry the cellar, in this case we get rid of harmful microorganisms and fungi.
How to get rid of fungus and damp air in the basement of the garage - in conclusion, here are some tips.
To maintain a dry microclimate in the basement, you can install small fans in the ventilation pipes. In this case, the air will constantly change, and dampness will not be able to develop mycelium.

What to do if the fungus has already appeared on the wall. A simple, uncomplicated operation will help to remove it. It is necessary to clean the wall of dirt and mycelium, dry the surfaces and treat them with industrial impregnations or a solution of potassium permanganate.

The fight against fungi and mold helps a simple sulfur checker. This treatment is carried out before laying vegetables. It is not recommended to repeat fumigation with sulfur or to warm up the air. In addition to waterproofing, the basement must have a sufficient layer of thermal insulation to prevent cold, damp air from entering the room.

Such simple and inexpensive methods will allow you to maintain a constant microclimate in the basement of the garage and provide optimal conditions for storing vegetables.