How to make a toilet from a barrel in the country with your own hands. Do-it-yourself country toilet Do-it-yourself toilet from a metal barrel

The design of a country toilet - choose wisely

The most important criterion for choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence is the level of groundwater on the site. With a deep standing groundwater (deeper than 2.5-3.5 m), especially if the water is even in heavy rains does not rise above two meters from the ground, any of the above types of toilet is possible. With a high standing of groundwater, this is exactly what we usually have in areas of the middle lane - the water is close to the surface, a classic toilet with a cesspool is unacceptable.

When standing groundwater above 2.5 m, the preferred option is powder closet or backlash closet, as well as a bio- or chemical toilet. Since these structures have a sealed cesspool, the waste does not enter the groundwater and is safe in an epidemiological sense. Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

toilet typeDescription
Classic "rustic" pit latrine (1)This is a cesspool one and a half meters deep, at the top of which there is a corresponding “house”. Everything that falls into the pit accumulates there, gradually decomposing. This toilet is not suitable for big family, because it will fill up too quickly, and the sewage will not have time to ferment. The situation is resolved in two ways: either they transfer the toilet to another place by burying a filled pit, or they clean the cesspool - manually or with the help of a sewage machine.
Powder closet (2)Suitable for areas with high groundwater levels. There is no cesspool here. Its role is played by a sealed container installed under the "seedushka". After every trip to the toilet new portion sewage should be covered with peat, ash or sawdust. When the container is full, its contents are taken out into the compost pit, sprinkled with peat.
Backlash closet (3)This type of toilet is suitable for being in the house. This is a structure equipped with a sealed cesspool (next to the outer wall). It is cleaned with a sewer machine. Thus, the pit itself is located outside the house, and all waste enters it through a pipe. The pit should slope away from the house.
dry closetThis is the same as those that stand on city streets, a booth with a container that contains active microorganisms that process waste. They buy such a toilet - there are any sizes on sale, dry closets suitable for home and for the street.
ChemicalIn fact, the same dry closet, but with a different waste processing technology. Chemical preparations are used - the contents of the toilet (unlike a dry closet) become unsuitable for use as fertilizer in beds and flower beds.
Peat toilet (4)This is the same powder closet, only of a more modern design. Suitable for home use. This is just a toilet, in the tank of which instead of water is dry peat, and the role of sewer pipes is performed by a waste container. Ventilation is provided in the design - it is taken out into the open air.

Construction of a toilet in the country: by law and harmony by neighbors

There are clear standards for the placement of a country street toilet. This is especially important for those structures that involve the contact of sewage with soil and groundwater. According to sanitary requirements, to any source of water (well, well, river, lake, stream, etc.) must be more than 25 m.

The door to the toilet should not be located on the side of the neighbors.

On a note

When building a toilet, it is better to take into account the directions of the winds that are most frequent in your participation: unpleasant odors should not disturb the neighbors.

When your summer cottage is located slightly downhill, the toilet should be below the source clean water- so that the waste does not get into the water.

Concerning country house and buildings of neighbors

  • The toilet must be at least 12 m away from residential buildings, cellars, basements.
  • From the structure of the bath, sauna, shower - at least 8 m.
  • From enclosures for keeping animals, poultry houses, etc. - at least 4 m.
  • From trees and shrubs - at least a meter; at the same distance - from the fence enclosing your summer cottage.

Do-it-yourself toilet - do-it-yourself powder closet

Building a classic "rustic" toilet is not at all difficult and even a novice builder can do it. Therefore, we will dwell on the device for more modern design- powder closet.

Advantages of powder closet:

  • This design does not provide for a cesspool, and this simplifies its construction. No need to dig a ditch.
  • Powder closet can be erected next to residential buildings.
  • Groundwater is not polluted.

The beginning of any construction is a drawing, since all parts must have accurately calculated dimensions. They should be such that the toilet is easy to use. So, minimum width buildings should be at least 1.5 m, depth - at least a meter, height - 2.2 m. Dimensions can be large, but it is not advisable to make them smaller. Now you have to decide on building material. Most often country toilets are made of wood. But you can build a brick toilet, sheathe the walls with a metal profile or slate.

Foundation: laying the foundation of the toilet

The toilet is a light building that does not require a solid solid foundation. Often poured under the country toilet strip foundation- the base is poured only along the perimeter of the walls. When creating a strip foundation for any building, a trench is dug, it is taken out above the zero mark and poured with a cement solution. The role of waterproofing is performed by roofing material. The foundation is filled with crushed stone, rubble stone, gravel, broken bricks. Coarse-grained sand and gravel are poured into the trench in layers, each layer should be compacted and poured with water. At ground level, the foundation is poured with cement mortar. The plinth is made of brick and insulated with a layer of roofing material. FROM outer side the foundation needs to be paved.

But it is much easier to make the most the simplest foundation: either bury supports (pillars - concrete, from timber or logs), or make a foundation from concrete blocks or bricks laid out around the perimeter of the structure.

Operating procedure

  1. The first stage is the marking of the site for future construction. Accurately mark the corners of the future building.
  2. As a foundation, we dig in supports. We need four asbestos-cement pipes, their diameter is about 150 mm. Outside, they should be coated with bituminous mastic.
  3. Some types of soils do not have desired characteristics for construction: strength, low compressibility, etc. Peat soils usually they shrink under load, clay ones swell, and forest-like ones in spring and autumn can settle under the weight of the building. Before starting construction, if you are building a brick toilet, such soils require a series of drainage measures or replacement of soil unsuitable for development. To check, it is enough to dig a hole in the place where the building will stand, with a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 m, and see the composition of the soil. Most the best option for construction - if your soil is based on fine-grained compacted sand.
  4. In the corners of the future building, 4 deep wells (about 70 cm) should be dug. At this depth, pipes are buried in the ground. Although, in general, the depth to which pipes must be buried will depend on the structure of the soil. On some soils, it may be necessary to deepen the pipes by 90-100 cm.
  5. Next, the pipes are poured a third of the height concrete mortar. Concrete is compacted by removing air bubbles. Support poles are inserted inside the pipes, most often wooden ones, which are fixed with concrete mortar.
  6. The poles are fixed so that they protrude to a height of 2.3 m from the ground. The location of the pillars should be even relative to the corners.

The easiest version of the foundation of the toilet

For light wooden buildings are easy to install concrete blocks or bricks. A frame will be placed on them. Such a "foundation" is done like this: upper layer soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and tightly rammed. A layer of sand is covered at the bottom of the trench, and concrete blocks or bricks are placed on top.

Building a toilet frame

The frame of the country toilet is made of wooden beams section 50 x 50 mm or 80 * 80 mm. Sometimes take more thick timber(100 * 100 mm) and even thicker, but this is not advisable. Still need metal corners. The frame is 4 bearing supports installed vertically. We also need a strapping of the roof of our building.

Roof trim: horizontal bars protrude from the body to a distance of about 40 cm. A visor is obtained in front, and a protrusion for draining rainwater is obtained in the back.

We sit well

The correct height of the toilet seat is the key to ease of use of the toilet. A seat that is too high will be uncomfortable for children and short people, too low will cause inconvenience to tall family members. It should be taken into account at what level the floor in the toilet will be located -40 cm upwards is deposited from this height. And keep in mind that there will also be a sheathing on top of the strapping (about 20 mm wide).

Consideration

  • Screed at the level of the toilet seat, which will appear later. The bars of this strapping are installed in a spacer to the vertical supports of the frame. The height of the toilet seat to the floor of the toilet should be 40-45 cm.
  • For the strength of the frame, diagonal braces are also made on the back and side walls. The frame for fastening the door is 2 vertical supports about 1.9-2 m high and a horizontal bar at this height.

On a note

Often, slate or corrugated sheets are used to build a country toilet. It is easier to work with them, but in such a toilet it will be uncomfortable. Wooden walls allow air to pass through it, providing natural ventilation.

Toilet frame upholstery

The walls of the country toilet are sheathed wooden planks, the thickness of which should be from 20 to 25 mm. They are tightly fitted and nailed to the frame supports. It is better to place the boards vertically, with the top of the back wall and side wall sheathing boards neatly cut off taking into account the slope of the roof (since in this design the roof will slope towards the back wall). In the back wall of the powder closet, a door is usually made through which a container with waste is taken out. The hinged door has a height of 40 to 45 cm (it is made to the height of the toilet seat).

We cut the roof of the toilet with our own hands

The roof of such a structure is usually covered with either sheets of corrugated board, or slate, or metal tiles. wooden roof cover with roofing material or other waterproofing material.

The roof of the toilet is made so that it has a hole for ventilation pipe. The pipe must be sealed.

Making a toilet door

They make a door out of wood and hang it on two or three hinges, depending on how heavy the door is. Also, the door is equipped with a latch, hook or latch outside and inside. A small window is usually made above the door so that light enters it. Zealous owners usually glass the window.

If you make the size of the toilet house large enough, you can even hang a washbasin in it.

Toilet seat: the most important thing

What to make a seat and a toilet seat in a powder toilet? It can be boards, lining, moisture resistant plywood. It is best to dwell on the wooden sheathing of the toilet seat frame, the boards must be painted, a hole cut out and an appropriate container with a capacity of 20-40 liters should be installed under the toilet seat. It is better to make the lid of the toilet seat reclining, fixing it on hinges. In addition, you should find a place in the toilet for a container of peat (you can hang it on the wall) and a bucket for used toilet paper.

Toilet with barrel

From wind and rain

The roof is built after the walls are completely sheathed. Fix it along the line of the upper slope, checking the compliance of the angles of the slope on adjacent surfaces. He must

Since the building is still loosely fixed at the stage of roof construction, then when working at height, just a ladder is not enough, additional insurance is needed. For example, using a reinforced ladder.

be 30 degrees. Having installed the roof, sew up the back wall. Zealous owners also hem overhangs.

The roof in this design is covered with a board. The thickness of the board is at least 20 mm. You can fasten the roof sheathing boards to the rafters with ordinary nails - there will be no special bearing load on a small roof area.

The roof is covered with roofing material - use ondulin, metal tiles or roofing material.

It is undesirable to cover the toilet roof with slate - such a coating greatly increases wind load for construction.

Final check

An important stage of work is the final check. The degree of tightening of all screws, the verticality of the walls and the horizontality of the floor are checked.

  • If there are violations, you can correct the structure by adding gravel under the foundation, installing spacers, etc.
  • The base of the toilet should be carefully fixed; for this purpose, another fastener is placed at the bottom of the foundation. The support columns on the sides are concreted, finally securing the structure.
  • Be sure to check your work for the absence of through breakdowns inside, on the back of the roof and walls. Such sharp tips of nails and screws can cause serious injury to people.

And finally, the interior decoration of our building. It begins, of course, with cutting a hole. First of all, a niche is cut out in the floor of the toilet along the perimeter of the buried barrel (manual, circular saw, jigsaw, etc.). top niches are hemmed with a board of 25 mm. The niche should be exactly in the center, away from rear wall toilet by 200-250 mm, and its dimensions must be at least 450 x 450 mm.

Summer residents decorate the "house" at their discretion. The main thing is not to overload it with decorative details, because the structure is rather fragile. The easiest option is to sheathe the perimeter of the front side with a decorative trim.

Reliable protection

Impregnation on wood is applied after completion of the main construction work. The choice of impregnation today is very large.

  • The tree should be impregnated with an antiseptic, this will save wooden details from mold, fungi, organic formations. After all, the toilet is an unheated room.
  • All wooden parts must be protected from decay. In conditions of high humidity, rotting can destroy the structure in just two to three years.
  • The refractory coating is very important. A cigarette thrown carelessly in the toilet can cause a fire in this wooden structure.
  • And one more function of impregnation and coloring of the toilet is decorative.

Hanging the toilet door

The door can be made independently or you can use the existing one for the second time. In any case, she also needs to apply protective impregnations. The door is installed on the hinges, which are pre-lubricated with any solid lubricant (grease, for example), which will protect metal parts from rust.

Toilet lighting

Before final finishing interior decoration our house, you should take care of the lighting. When conducting electrical work It should be noted that the toilet is a building with high humidity. Based on this, we comply with the following rules:

If there are children in the family

Let's say we use LED lights voltage 12 or 36 volts. At the beginning of the power supply line, a voltage converter is installed, and the switch will be built into the design of the luminaire. If there are children in the family, then such a safe lamp can be installed at a low height.

  • From the power line support to the toilet should not be more than five meters.
  • The power cable is brought out by means of a mast with a height of at least 250 cm; while the mast must be securely fastened to the rear wall of the toilet.
  • A ground connection is required.
  • Inside the building, cabling is carried out open way, its cross section must be at least 0.75 sq. mm.
  • The luminaire power should not exceed 40 watts. It is safest to use energy-saving lamps. The design of the luminaire itself should be designed for use in rooms with high humidity.
  • The light switch must not be located inside the toilet. Install it on a special shield at the beginning of the power supply line. This can be a switchboard, or a switch can be installed inside a permanent structure.

We mount the seat

First of all, we need to make a so-called podium. You will need bars 30 * 60 mm in size, as well as self-tapping screws at least 70 mm long, which will connect these bars into the podium structure.

Niche opposite cesspool should remain free - this will allow you to clean the barrel in a timely manner, and such a toilet will last much longer.

The created structure is sheathed with sheet material, which must be durable (plywood, chipboard, OSB boards). The front wall is closed with a rectangle of the desired size. Fix it with self-tapping screws.

The upper part of the podium - mark the lane sheet material, which will go around vertical racks wall frame. A rectangular part is cut out, and then the grooves are marked, the location and size of which correspond to the racks.

On the upper part we install a toilet seat, which is closed with a lid.

For aesthetics to inner space podium was hidden from view, install a simple fixture inside - plastic box without bottom and lid.

The interior of the country toilet

If for the construction of the toilet were used quality materials, inside the toilet can not be painted. It is enough just to pickle the boards with a protective coating.

The floor and podium are painted with weatherproof dyes.

building door and external walls it is better to protect with staining. Surfaces are pre-cleaned old paint, if any, and polished.

Do-it-yourself backlash closet

How to organize a sewer

You can make a pressure or gravity sewer. It depends on the characteristics of each individual suburban area. With pressure sewerage, waste is fed using special fecal pumps, with gravity sewage, it goes away by gravity.

When installing a gravity sewer, it is very important to keep the slopes correctly. The slope must be the same throughout, and then the length of the sewer pipe can be any.

On a note

Very often they make the slope as large as possible, believing that in this way the waste will flow out faster. This is mistake. If the slope is too steep, the liquid drains faster, solid waste is trapped, and the pipes become clogged. Also, the inflow of air to the surfaces of underfilled pipes leads to corrosion and a decrease in their service life.

A pressure sewer is installed if it is impossible to maintain a sufficient slope angle. This may be when, for example, the way

Drainage slope

For novice builders, the difficulty lies in the fact that the unit of measurement of the slope, adopted in the construction literature, is unusual for them - this decimals like 0.03 or 0.008. This fraction is the ratio of the drop height to the length of the pipe. For example, 3 cm by 1 m, or 0.8 cm but 1 m. The length of the sewer pipe in meters, when multiplied by the slope, will give overall height slope throughout.

Polypropylene pipes (they do not deform at high and low temperatures and easy to install) are assembled, starting from the bottom, inserting each subsequent one into the socket of the previous one. In places of turns and at the bottom of risers, special revision pipes are required. joint polypropylene pipe with cast iron produced using a rubber cuff.

When installing a pressure sewer, the pipes are connected by welding. The diameter of such pipes depends on the requirements of the pump and ranges from 20 to 40 mm.

The outer part of the sewer is placed in a trench. The depth of the trench should be below the freezing level of the soil. Pipes for external sewage are used cast iron, ceramic or asbestos, but they can also be plastic if laid in places where there is no increased load. The pipes must slope towards the drain.

When installing the toilet, remember that its outlet should not be lower than the neck of the pipe. In this case, it is raised using bricks and cement. A toilet bowl outlet is put on the cuff with a seal, the cuff itself is inserted into the pipe.

On a note

If necessary, it is better to put 2 knees at 45 ° than one at 90 °. So the flow of plums will not slow down.

The toilet is located below ground level.

Here you need a fecal pump. It is not a problem to purchase one, summer residents are offered a wide range of models that differ in power, distance, method of pumping waste (vertically or horizontally), etc.

The final chord: what to do with the "good" from the toilet

Dachnaya sewer system divided into two types

Hermetically equipped cesspoolSuch a pit is reliably isolated, and it does not pose an environmental hazard. Pit sewers require regular cleaning as the tank fills up. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for its placement: a sewage truck should freely drive up to such a pit.

A cesspool is undesirable if groundwater occurs at a distance closer than 3.5 m from the surface.

It should be located no closer than 30 m from the nearest well. And, preferably, no closer than 15 m from the country house.

The walls of the cesspool should not let water through. To do this, it is concreted or poured with cement mortar.

If the depth of the pit depends on the level of groundwater, then the width is not limited.

Septic tank - wastewater treatment systemSuch a system collects all the waste of summer residents in a special tank, which is called a sump. It provides mechanical cleaning. Modern devices equipped with a biofilter. Purified water is discharged to a place remote from the summer cottage. A septic tank is used to bring waste products to a state that is safe for the environment.

There are two types of septic tanks: storage and cleaning.

The storage septic tank requires periodic cleaning. It is equipped with fill level sensors.

A storage septic tank is purchased based on the volume required for the family. The volume is calculated from the daily water consumption at their summer cottage. One person consumes from 50 to 250 liters per day.

It is better to purchase a storage septic tank "with a margin". The material of manufacture and the thickness of the walls should also be taken into account, since the septic tank is buried in the ground.

The cleaning septic tank consists of several chambers where the waste is completely cleaned.

Shower and toilet in the country: for beginner builders

Even if in your life you have not built anything more complicated than a stool, you can build a toilet and a shower in your summer cottage.

STEP 1. CASIN

The walls of the cesspool are best sealed by providing a hatch for pumping out waste.

  1. First we clean construction site from roots, trees, bushes and debris. For a family of 3-4 people, we dig a hole one meter wide, 120 cm long, 200 cm deep.
  2. The earth should not crumble into a pit and clutter up the construction site. fertile layer on a garden wheelbarrow we take to the garden, clay - away from our site.
  3. We strengthen the walls of the resulting pit. We take flat sheets slate with a size of 1 * 2 m and cut them with a grinder according to the size of the walls. We lower the sheets down and fix them in the pit with the help of corners from the reinforcement. To this end, we punch holes in the slate and hammer the corners into the wall of the pit.
  4. The gaps between the walls of the pit and the slate should be sealed with reinforcement rods. We put the rods in the slots, then we lay the sheets of roofing material for waterproofing, then we fill in the cement mortar.
  5. We place a sheet of iron at the bottom of the pit: this way the earth will be sealed from sewage.
  6. For now, we cover the finished pit with polyethylene from dampness and precipitation, while we ourselves begin to build a columnar foundation.

STEP 2. FILLING THE FOUNDATION

A shower and a toilet for a summer residence can be economically combined in one building. The parameters of such a building are: a width of one and a half meters, a length of 3 meters, a height of 2 m 20 cm. Thus, the premises will be 1.5 by 1.5 m in area. However, for a family of three, there is enough building area for a shower and toilet 1.2 * 1.2 m.

On a note

It is very important to spread the slate sheets with wooden bars before pouring the solution.

  1. The building will be wooden, which means that the foundation will be quite columnar, light, 80 cm deep.
  2. We cut 16 wooden stakes and mark the place of the future foundation. Along the perimeter of a rectangle with parameters of 150 by 300 cm, we install 14 stakes every 75 cm. We also put pegs in the far corners of the pit: there will be a hatch through which the cesspool will be cleaned in the future.
  3. We check the location and verticality of the pegs. There should be equal spacing between stakes, all angles should be 90°.
  4. For drilling holes, it is best to use a garden drill with a 13 cm auger. We make 16 holes. We supply each pit with a wooden formwork, the height-length-width of which is 20 x 20 * 20 cm. Using the building level, we equalize the formwork horizontally.
  5. We insert three reinforcing bars into each pit, which are fastened together with a wire - so the foundation will be reliable. We place a rolled roofing material at the bottom of the pit so that the concrete is isolated from the soil.
  6. We fill the recesses with cement mortar. Small crushed stone is often added to cement, based on the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone 1:3:5. The solution is equal to the formwork.
  7. In the center of each hole we place a metal hairpin with a diameter of about 10 mm. We deepen the hairpin by 12 cm so that 8 cm remain above the cement level.
  8. While the cement hardens, we prepare a wooden beam for the construction of the frame.

STEP 3. CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAME

We need a beam, the side of which will be equal to 10 cm. When the cement has hardened, it's time to remove the formwork and make the bottom trim of the foundation.

  1. Using a chainsaw, along the length of the sides of the future building, we saw off the bars and connect them to each other half a tree. That is, 5 cm from the thickness of the beam is cut from each side, and so the beams are interconnected according to the principle of a puzzle.
  2. We drill holes into which the studs protruding from our columnar foundation will enter.
  3. We lay the overlap, securing it with a washer with a nut with a spanner wrench.
  4. Do not forget to lay a roofing material under the timber for waterproofing.
  5. The lower trim is ready: the bars lie on poles, tied with studs and nuts. After that, the wooden strapping bars cover protective composition from external influences.
  6. Above the pit (there will be a floor and a “podium” seat), two metal channels are laid for strength.
  7. Part of the cesspool outside the perimeter of the walls is covered with a board and protected with a moisture-proof material. In the future, the hose of the as-senator machine can be inserted by removing several boards.
  8. We begin to install vertical poles. Their height is equal to the height of the future building - 220 cm. The first pillars are installed in the corners of the building, checking the correctness of their installation with a building level.
  9. We connect the vertical pillars of the frame to the bottom trim using metal plates and corners for fasteners. For reliability, we install spacers at the base of the pillars, securing them with long screws.
  10. We install the next two pillars where the doors will be. Their height is 200 cm, the width between them is 80 cm. Above the door, at a height of two meters, we strengthen the spacer horizontally. And the remaining 20 cm between the doorway and the ceiling will subsequently be glazed. These pillars are also fixed with struts fixed long self-tapping screws. When the poles are installed, you need to do top harness: the beam is also connected in half a tree.
  11. The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent wood decay.

Not a single suburban area can do without this structure. You can completely build it yourself, and our tips and recommendations will help you.

Some owners suburban areas they refuse to build a toilet in accordance with all the rules and the issue of waste disposal is always on the agenda, so it’s better to spend time building a toilet once and close this issue for many years. And an interesting design of the toilet can fit very organically into the landscape of the site and even decorate it. Or you can place the toilet in the far corner of the site and make it almost invisible - it's up to you. The main thing is that when building a toilet, construction and sanitary and epidemiological standards are observed.

The most time-consuming step in building a toilet is to dig a hole, but for a real owner this is not a problem, in the end, you can find an assistant or use paid services. Further work is not difficult, the main thing is to follow some rules.

Location selection

As a rule, the toilet is installed in the far corner of the site due to the presence of minor odors. If you are visiting a cottage all year round, then the toilet can be located closer to the house or directly in the house, displaying sewer pipe in drain hole. Usually the latter option is used if the house has running water.

Basic rules and regulations when choosing a place for a drain pit (toilet):

- the pit should be located at a distance of not less than 30 m from water sources;

- the depth of the pit should not reach the level of groundwater;

- when installing a septic tank, it must be located at a distance no closer than 15m from the house;

- when using an insulated container, it is fashionable to place a drain pit anywhere, since waste will not flow into the ground, an insulated container is also used if groundwater is too close;

- if it is planned to pump out the drain pit with a sewage machine, then it is necessary to take into account the possibility of the entrance of such a machine and the distance from the entrance to the pit should not be too large.

As a rule, the size of a cesspool in a summer cottage is 1x1 m or a diameter of 1 m with a depth of 1.5 ... 2 m.

Choosing a toilet design

As a material for a toilet booth, you can recommend wooden bars, boards, corrugated board. Then the toilet will be light and no foundation will be required. If you choose brick or logs as the material for the toilet, then you need a foundation. When building a toilet, a brick building does not make sense, since such a room will not be warmer than a light building, and a building made of corrugated board or boards can be easily insulated with foam, glass wool, mineral wool or other types of insulation. upholstered toilet thermal insulation materials, it will become not only warmer in the cold season, but also cooler on hot summer days.

You can decide on the dimensions of the toilet yourself, usually the toilet has dimensions LxWxH 1.5x1x2.3 m, however, these dimensions may vary at your discretion.

You can also purchase ready-made toilet booths in the store, they can be plastic, wooden and metal. They are easy to transport and assemble.

Necessary materials

Depending on the chosen model of the toilet booth, necessary materials.

– Wooden blocks and boards

– Fasteners (nails, screws, bolts, nuts, screws)

– Metal corners for the frame

– Handles, hook or latch

– Roofing material (corrugated board, slate, roofing material, etc.)

- Insulation material, if necessary (polystyrene, glass wool, etc.) and material for inner lining walls (plywood, thin boards, chipboard, etc.).

- A toilet seat with a lid (you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself from the boards).

For cesspool necessary:

- crushed stone;

- cement;

- chain-link mesh with metal staples;

Instead of a chain-link mesh plastered with concrete, you can use brick or concrete rings with holes, old tires large diameter or metal barrels.

The most environmentally friendly is a container - a septic tank. On sale are plastic containers of different volumes, you just need to choose the right size, depending on the length of stay and the number of summer residents.

Required Tools

hand drill;

- shovels (shovel and bayonet);

- a hammer;

- screwdriver;

- Sander;

- electric jigsaw;

- marking tools (tape measure, level, square).

The device of a concrete cesspool or a pit lined with bricks

1. Mark the place of the future pit on the site, the shape of the pit can be either round or rectangular.

2. Dig a hole, observing safety measures (the area where the work will be carried out must be fenced off and outsiders, especially children, should not be allowed to enter it, the soil selected from the hole must be removed to a safe distance).

3. After the hole is dug, drainage must be arranged at the bottom. Stones, large gravel, broken bricks can be used as drainage.

4. After that, the walls of the pit need to be covered with a mesh - chain-link (cell size 5x5 cm). Fix the mesh with steel brackets or pins, driving them into the ground. To strengthen the walls, you can additionally reinforce with a metal grate with 10x10 cm cells. After that, the pit must be concreted by throwing several layers of concrete mortar onto the walls. The total thickness of the concrete should be 5 ... 8 cm, then the pit should be left to dry completely.

Alternatively, you can line the drain pit with brick

And you can use ready-made concrete rings

5. The finished pit is covered with the finished one reinforced concrete slab, which will be the foundation for the toilet. If there is no finished plate, you can make it yourself. To do this, boards are laid on the pit, the size of which should be 50 cm larger on each side than the size of the pit. The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and recessed to the ground level. Two holes must be left on the surface: for the toilet seat and the cesspool. Install formwork around the holes. A dense layer is laid on the surface of the boards. polyethylene film, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid and along the perimeter is enclosed in the formwork. Then the prepared surface must be poured with concrete and left to dry completely. To increase strength and durability, it is necessary to carry out “ironizing” - to process a wet surface after the mortar has set with dry cement.

6. Install a cover or hatch on the cesspool.

7. Install a toilet booth on the finished site.

The device of a cesspool under a septic tank

If you use a plastic septic tank, then the pit is dug so that the inlet pipe is in the toilet, and the neck of the second chamber remains outside the toilet room for pumping out fecal matter. The containers come in different volumes and shapes, depending on this, the shape and depth of the pit will be appropriate. It must be remembered that the size of the pit should be 20 ... 30 cm larger than the selected container, the soil around the plastic septic tank must be well tamped.

Cesspool device with car tires

- For the construction of the walls of the pit, you can use car tires. The advantage of this option is minimal labor costs, and the disadvantage is a small volume and a shorter service life, compared with a concrete pit. You need to start by digging a hole, the diameter of which should be 15 ... 20 cm larger than the diameter of the tires. Lay a drainage layer 20 cm thick at the bottom. Lay tires in the middle of the pit to the level of the ground surface. As it is laid, crushed stone and sand are filled and compacted between the walls of the pit and the tires.

After laying the tires, a strip foundation needs to be built around the pit. To do this, you need to dig a trench 50 cm deep around the perimeter of the toilet, the bottom of the trench must be tamped and covered with a layer of sand and gravel (5 ... 7 cm each), carefully tamping. Then lay the waterproofing of dense polyethylene.

After that, you need to arrange foundation one of the suggested methods:

1. Weld and install a rebar grate and install it in wooden formwork so that the formwork is 10 ... 15 cm above ground level. Pour concrete mortar into the formwork. After hardening, remove the formwork.

2. Share brick foundation, then plaster it with cement, leveling the walls and top.

It is necessary to lay roofing material on the foundation and install a ready-made toilet or one built independently.

The device of a cesspool from a metal (plastic) barrel

This is the least time-consuming option, but it has a significant drawback: under the influence of aggressive environment both outside the barrel and inside, the metal quickly collapses and such a pit can only be used as a temporary one.

For the device of such a hole, it is necessary to dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel. Barrels with a cut bottom are placed one on top of the other, the space between the barrels and the pit is covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand and carefully compacted.

As a drain hole instead metal barrel plastic can be used, which can be purchased at a store or use a suitable one by drilling drainage holes in the walls. Such a barrel will not collapse from corrosion and will last a long time. If the farm has a plastic barrel

Building a toilet house

The toilet room may varied design. Usually its dimensions are: width 1 m, length 1.5 m, height 2.5 m. You can build an inconspicuous structure, hiding it away from the eyes, or you can give it an interesting design that will decorate your site.

Below is a diagram of a toilet made of boards and logs, which looks like a fairy-tale house.

On the foundation, waterproofed with roofing material, fix the frame, which is made of powerful wooden bars.

Then the frame of the house is knocked down and then the walls are upholstered and the roof is upholstered with the selected material. The walls can be upholstered with logs or boards, and the roof with slate, metal tiles, shingles or any other roofing material.

Such a house can be installed on a drain pit, or it can be used as a room for a dry closet.

On the video you can see an example of the construction of a dignity. node in the suburban area

dry closet

An alternative to the capital construction of a toilet is a dry closet, which is a toilet bowl that does not require a separate capital building and a drain pit.


The dry closet consists of two chambers, where the upper one is a toilet bowl, and the lower one is used for the biological treatment of waste products. It contains active substances that decompose waste, turning it into a homogeneous, odorless mass. Usually, the action of the bioactive liquid is enough for 10 days, after which the chamber must be cleaned by removing the contents into the sewer or soil, depending on which active substances are used.

Active substances

are of three types:

– composting
– chemical
- microorganic.

The choice of the type of active substances depends on the type of dry closet.

– for composting as active substance peat is used. It has a very high absorbency (1 kg of peat can absorb 10 liters of liquid). The resulting compost is odorless and can be used as fertilizer for garden beds. Such a dry closet can be equipped with tubes to remove unpleasant odors.

- in the toilet, which uses chemicals as active substances, an indicator is installed indicating the need to clean the container. This waste is discharged into the sewer. This type can be equipped with substances that have non-freezing properties.

- in the biological toilet, microorganisms are used as active substances, which, as a result of their vital activity, turn waste into compost. The resulting compost is odorless, environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless to the soil and animals.

Bioactive substances for toilets

Biologically active substances for drain pits are similar to those used in dry closets. They include peat, chemical or bacterial concentrates in their composition, which gradually process waste products and rid the toilet of unpleasant odors. Available as tablets, powders or liquids.

Before use, you need to read the instructions for use, which indicates the dosage and method of application. Such active substances are produced, one package of which is enough for a whole year of use for a cesspool volume of up to 4 tons.

I carefully read the entire topic (30 pages of topics out of 50), but I did not find an answer to my question.

TTX of the site.
GWL is high (0.8-1m).
I didn’t measure the absorption level, according to experience it turns out that if you pour 160 liters of water into a 200l barrel without a bottom (fill it up to the top), it takes a little less than a day.
Soil: 30-50 cm soil, then loam with sand and gravel. They say that somewhere from 3-3.5m sand begins, but I have not seen this, because there is no such depth anywhere.

History reference
When we bought a plot with a house, we found out that the previous owners were just walking on the ground under the house (they just made a hole in plank floors outbuilding and put the seat on top).
We see it was such a "pre-sale".
In the very first summer, this misunderstanding was filled up and the Tajiks dug a hole for a standard toilet like MiZH in a distant barn.
She lived for a year and a half.
Firstly, this pit stank mercilessly and, secondly, it practically filled up with earth in a year.
As a result, when they reached their hands, they went around the neighbors and looked at how someone did it and did it according to the "most comfortable analogy."

Current situation
They took a metal barrel for 200 liters from which they knocked out the bottom, removed all the soil to alumina, dug a hole under it (the barrel sticks out of the clay about 20 cm, i.e., a depth of 1 m), crushed stone was poured on the bottom, cm 10, and rubble was also sprinkled on the sides about 10cm.
A seat was placed on top.
There is water in the barrel all summer, that is, the toilet, in fact, is always water - into the groundwater.
With rain, the level fluctuates up to + 20cm.
The minimum turns out to be somewhere 10-15 cm from the bottom, the maximum is 30-45 (i.e. there has never even been half a barrel yet).
Many people in the garden have done the same.

QUESTIONS
1. The current situation, in general, is 90% satisfactory, because it finally stopped smelling for a half-hour.
But it seems to be written here that it is categorically impossible to do so.
I would like to know why.
I will immediately explain the standard harmful effects in our case:
a) pollution of wells - no one has wells in the garden at all.
b) pollution of water-bearing soybean wells - the depths of the wells in the garden range from 37 to 56 meters and (if I don’t confuse) the water is not drinking everywhere (not for bacteria - there are a lot of extra minerals)
c) chemistry and so on - nothing "unnatural" is thrown into the barrel. We don't even throw toilet paper.

2. Now this design has been in operation for about six months.
Everything is cool.
Nothing even floats on the surface, that is, if you don’t use the toilet for a couple of days, then there is an even mirror of water in it (I haven’t checked what it is about quality)
The problem is that by the end of the summer, some "stinky" bacteria started up in the barrel.
It doesn't stink as badly as a cesspool, but it's unpleasant.
Drink sickeningly sweet. I call it "rotten caramels".
I talked with the neighbors - they say that this is always the case, because, depending on what starts up, they can emit different gases: when sweetish, when sour, when ...
Everyone fights with them in different ways: someone regularly pours some dry mixtures with bacteria that do not stink, someone just ash (I didn’t understand why).
Actually a question: what method to be overcome with unnecessary smells?
That is, let them live there and eat everything that is supposed to, but somehow agree with them so that they do not stink

I would be grateful for a detailed explanation on this topic or links where to read.

The first building that is being built at their summer cottage is a toilet. The toilet in the country differs from the city bathroom in the absence of a sewerage system. Therefore, the construction of a toilet in the country is not only the construction of a cabin, but also the organization of a place for the collection and disposal of waste. There are several possible options for arranging a toilet in the country about them and how to build a toilet in the country with your own hands will be described in detail in this material.

Outdoor toilet for a summer residence

Most cottages are used only in warm time year, so the most popular is summer or outdoor toilet for giving. This design is simple and well-tested by time. You can build a summer toilet in the country with your own hands from available materials, which is certainly a great advantage.



Fig.1.



Fig.2.



Fig.3.

An outdoor toilet for a summer residence consists of a toilet cubicle and a pit for collecting waste under it. The toilet cubicle in the country can be made of any materials. The pit for the toilet in the country can be made of any size. The depth of the toilet pit depends on the number of users.



Fig.4.



Fig.5.


Fig.6.

However, a cesspool for a toilet in a country house will only work well if the groundwater level is low. If the groundwater level is high, then the cesspool will constantly be heated, and it will overflow all the time. In this case, this type of toilet will have to be abandoned, or a waterproofed container will have to be used instead of the pit. However, then it is necessary to call a sewer at least once a year.


Fig.7.



Fig.8.



Fig.9.

Do-it-yourself wooden toilet for a summer residence

The construction of a toilet in a street-type cottage can be divided into three stages, preparing a waste collection pit, laying the foundation and making a toilet cabin. During construction, it is important to remember that the toilet will serve for a very long time only if the installation of the toilet in the country is done correctly.



Fig.10.



Fig.11.

Cesspool for a toilet in the country

A toilet pit in the country is made with reinforced walls. If you do not strengthen the pit under the toilet in the country, then in a short period of time it will quickly collapse. To strengthen the walls of the pit, it is convenient to use a toilet tank from a two hundred liter barrel.



Fig.12.

If there is danger high level groundwater, it is necessary to use a plastic sealed tank. The barrel is dug into the ground in the place of the cesspool. As the toilet is used, it will have to be cleaned. To facilitate this matter and at the same time not to think about where to put the contents, during the operation of the toilet it is necessary to add special compound. This composition can be purchased at any country store. It includes bacteria that will process all the waste, after which they can be used as fertilizer.



Fig.13.

If there is no groundwater, then it is good to use a metal barrel. Holes are made in it so that the liquid phase of the waste goes into the ground. The barrel is filled not with soil, but with gravel. Thus, a drainage for the liquid fraction is obtained. A cesspool for a toilet in the country, built according to this principle, can work for more than 10 years and does not require cleaning.



Fig.14.



Fig.15.



Fig.16.

How to make a foundation for a toilet in the country

By and large, such a structure as a wooden toilet does not require a special foundation. However, in order for the building to serve for a long time, the foundation for the toilet in the country is still needed. In addition, if the booth is raised above the ground by at least 10 cm, then the ventilation of the toilet in the country will be ensured in this way.



Fig.17.


Fig.18.

The easiest option for a foundation for an outdoor toilet is to dig holes in the corners of the toilet with a depth of 20 - 30 cm, fill them with sand, and put blocks or blocks on the sand. curbstone. It will be just as easy to install pile foundation, for this you can purchase four screw piles 1 m long.



Fig.19.



Fig.20.



Fig.21.

Drawings of a wooden toilet for a summer residence

The toilet cabin for a summer residence may have a different appearance, but by design it is always of the same type. It is made from wooden beams frame technology. First, a frame is assembled from bars, and then sheathed with clapboard or any other material.



Fig.22.



Fig.23.



Fig.24.

A timber 60x80, 80x80 or 100x100 mm is well suited for the frame. You can use a beam of a smaller section, but then you need to put several diagonal jumpers for the stability of the structure.


Fig.25.



Fig.26.

A frame toilet for a summer residence begins to be built from the assembly of the base from 4 bars 1.5 m long. Next, vertical racks are installed. Be sure to install racks for the door. The distance between the posts should be equal to the width of the door with the frame. As rafters, you can use a board 40x120 mm. A board 20-25 mm thick is laid on top of the rafters, a profiled sheet is laid on top of it.



Fig.27.



Fig.28.

How to make a hood in the toilet in the country

For a summer toilet, it is important to provide a window above the door, this will be the ventilation of the toilet and the source of lighting. Do not glaze this window otherwise the toilet will be hot and smelly.


Fig.29.



Fig.30.

How to sheathe a toilet for a summer residence outside

Outside, to protect against rain, the frame of the toilet cubicle can be sheathed with any material, for example, profiled sheeting or siding. However, the most popular material is lining or block house. For the roof of the toilet, any roofing material, for example, profiled sheet.


Fig.31.


Fig.33.



Fig.34.

Toilet seat in the country

Can be used as a seat various designs starting with the platform and ending with a hole in the floor. In my opinion, it is most convenient to use a special toilet seat in the country.



Fig.35.



Fig.36.



Fig.37.

Odorless cottage toilet

There are several options for organizing a toilet for an odorless cottage: a dry closet, a peat toilet, a cesspool and a septic tank. All these options differ in cost, complexity of maintenance and labor intensity of construction.

Chemical dry closet in the country

A dry closet is a type of toilet that does not require a sewerage system. Waste products accumulate in a special tank.



Fig.38.

Chemical dry closets are equipped with a tank for waste accumulation and flushing, water and deodorizing liquid are poured into the flushing tank, and a disinfectant-splitting liquid is added to the waste tank. The use of such a toilet is almost the same as the city one.


Fig.39.

The advantage of chemical dry closets is autonomy, and, therefore, it is possible to install them anywhere, including in the house, and not build a special structure.



Fig.40.



Fig.41.

The disadvantage is the need for constant waste disposal. It should be noted that not all chemical liquids allow waste to be discharged into the soil, which means that you will have to have a special place for waste disposal.

Finnish toilet for a summer residence

A peat toilet for a summer residence differs from chemical ones in a simpler design. In their work they do not use chemicals. Structurally peat toilets They are a small tank with a mechanism for draining liquid. To split the waste after each use, it is necessary to pour a little peat into the toilet.



Fig.42. Fig.48. The septic is autonomous system sewer for home. Due to the complexity of installation and the need for year-round use, they are usually used in country houses. Sewage getting into the septic tank is subject to decomposition. A septic tank does not require regular cleaning.

Given the complexity of installation and the cost of equipment, septic tanks are usually used in country houses. year-round living.



Fig.49.

We considered all possible options for toilets for summer cottages. Despite the abundance of options, the septic tank and the traditional outdoor toilet for summer cottages are most widely used. The septic tank is good for its autonomy and the ability to organize a full-fledged sewerage system. Typically, a septic tank is used in country houses and year-round cottages. If the dacha is visited only in the summer, then the easiest way to organize a toilet is the village version. For rustic toilet it is necessary to install a cesspool, the role of which is usually played by a barrel, and build a booth on top. Usually the cabin is built of wood. If you decorate the toilet house well, then in addition to fulfilling its intended purpose, it will also be a wonderful decoration of the site.

🔨 A country toilet is easy to do with your own hands, if you make some efforts and efforts. We have selected drawings with dimensions for popular country toilets that will last you for decades! Also in the article you will find a step-by-step photo-instruction for the construction of a country toilet.

The most time-consuming step in the process of building a latrine will be digging a pit, but this work can also be done. The aesthetic side of the building is a secondary issue, the most important thing is to properly arrange a cesspool and create a reliable foundation for an above-ground structure.

It should be noted that some owners of suburban areas do not build a toilet according to the rules and manage with an ordinary bucket substituted under the toilet seat. But, one way or another, waste products need to be put somewhere, so you still can’t do without a capital pit. Therefore, it is better to do all the work correctly once and long years do not return to this issue. It is especially important to make a capital building if the residents spend a significant part of the year in the country.

When if if you don’t want to spoil the design of the territory of the site by installing it, then you can hide it in the far corner behind the house, or you can come up with a design for it that will help to organically fit the building into the landscape.

Choosing a place for a closet and its design

Usually the toilet is installed closer to the far boundary of the site, and this is understandable, since at least a slight smell will be present in or near this room. But sometimes they use another option, arranging a cesspool near the house, and a free corner of the house is allocated for the toilet, leading a wide sewer pipe into the pit. This design is mainly used in cases where water is supplied to the house, and there are plans to install an insulated container for collecting waste.

In any case, you should adhere to the standards established by the sanitary and epidemiological services. They must be observed in order to protect yourself, your neighbors and the environment from undesirable consequences such as infectious diseases or soil contamination.

  • If a cesspool is arranged, it must be located at a distance of at least 30 m from water sources, and its depth should not reach groundwater.
  • If a septic tank is installed, then it is located no closer than 15 m from the house.
  • If you plan to use an insulated container, which will be cleaned as it fills cesspool machine, then it can be installed anywhere, since the waste will not flow into the ground.

An insulated container is also a way out in cases where groundwater does not run too deep and a cesspool dug in the ground is not possible.

Usually the pits of the simplest country toilet have an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout one square meter. If the pit comes off round, then its diameter should be approximately 1 m. Its depth is 1.5-2 m, depending on the depth of groundwater.

After the place for the pit is determined, you can proceed to the choice of toilet design.

  • The first thing to consider is the weight of the structure - it will largely be determined by the material that is planned to be used for construction. The house itself should not be too heavy, because over time, the soil under its weight may begin to sag and, in the end, the building will deform and be damaged.

For construction, wooden bars and boards, or thin metal - galvanized profiles and corrugated board, are well suited.

If it is decided to build a toilet booth from logs or bricks, then you will have to think about a well-fortified foundation. But there is absolutely no need to build such heavy buildings, since they still will not become warmer than light buildings. It's better if it's necessary thermally insulate the room with heaters that are light in weight, for example, foam. Such a building will be both light and warm, not blown through during the cold season, and it will not be excessively hot in it in summer.

  • Having decided on the material, you can proceed to the size of the booth.

Typically, a standard toilet has a width of 1 m, a height of 2.3 m, and a room length of 1.3 ÷ 1.5 m. However, these dimensions are by no means a dogma and may well vary. In any case, the room should be comfortable for any family member to be in it, both standing and sitting.

What will be required to build a toilet

Having decided on the design and placement of the toilet, they acquire the necessary materials for its construction. Wooden or metal "house" can be bought already in ready-made. If you decide to build it yourself, then you will need the following materials:

  • Boards and wooden blocks.
  • Fasteners - nails and screws.
  • Metal corners to reinforce the structure of the wooden frame.
  • Door handle, hook or latch to close the door.
  • Roof covering material - slate or corrugated board.
  • Plastic or wooden toilet seat with a lid.
  • At necessary - foamst for the insulation of the booth, and the material for the inner lining of the insulated walls, chipboard, thin board or plywood.

For the device of the cesspool you will need:

  • Cement, crushed stone, sand.
  • Reinforcement to strengthen the foundation of the house.
  • A metal chain-link mesh for covering the pit and metal brackets or pins for attaching this mesh to the ground.

Another option, instead of a grid and plastering it with concrete, may be a brick, which is lined with the walls of the pit.

In addition, for the device of the pit, they often use those that have holes in the walls. Many summer residents prefer the old rubber tires large sizes.

Another, the most environmentally friendly option, can be ready-made capacity- septic. They are produced in different sizes, so you can choose the right one, depending on the number of family members and the length of the period of residence in the country.


Naturally, when building a country toilet, you can’t do without tools, so you need to have:

  • A hand drill that can help when digging a pit.
  • Sovkovskaya and bayonet shovel, with long and short handle.
  • If the soil in the area is rocky, you may need a rock drill.
  • Hammer and screwdriver.
  • Grinder - "Bulgarian" with discs for stone and metal.
  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Marking tool - ruler, tape measure, square, building level, pencil or marker.

Prices for popular septic tanks

Cesspool device


Toilet classification
by type of waste disposal

Of course, they always start with marking and digging a hole. It will have a square or round shape, depending on the chosen design.

1. If a two-chamber plastic septic tank will be installed, then the pit is dug in such a way that the inlet pipe is located directly in the toilet cubicle, since a toilet seat will be mounted on it. The neck of the second chamber should remain outside the room - it is needed for regular pumping of accumulated fecal matter.


There are tanks different shapes, and the dimensions and shape of the pit will depend on this. The size of the pit must be made 20-30 cm larger than the existing capacity, since the soil must be well compacted around it.

2. If the walls of the pit will be finished with concrete or brick, it can be made round or square.


  • After digging a hole of the required depth, at its bottom it is necessary to arrange drainage from large rubble, stones, fragments of bricks
  • Then, its walls are covered with a metal chain-link mesh with cells measuring 50 × 50 mm. The mesh is fixed by driving into the ground with steel wire shackles or pins.
  • To make the walls stronger, you can additionally reinforce the walls metal grating with large cells 100 × 100 mm.
  • Further, by the method of throwing, a concrete solution is applied to the walls, which is left until it dries completely. The total thickness of the concrete layer should be about 50 ÷ 80 mm.
  • After setting the first layer, the walls are plastered to a smooth state with the same concrete mortar. The plastered hole is left to dry.
  • The pit is covered with either a finished reinforced concrete slab, or made locally. It will serve as a foundation for the toilet and a platform around it.
  • Boards are laid on the pit, which should go beyond its limits by 700 ÷ 800 mm and be sunk into the ground to the same level with the ground. Boards must be treated with antiseptic agents. This wooden substrate under the foundation it is quite possible to replace concrete columns.

  • Two holes are left on the surface for installing a toilet seat and for a cesspool, which should later be covered with a lid. Formwork is installed around future holes.
  • A dense polyethylene film is spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future foundation.
  • Reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which is enclosed in formwork around the entire perimeter of the future foundation.

  • The height of the hole formwork must be the same as that of the entire foundation formwork. Formwork boards will serve as beacons when leveling the surface.
  • The concrete solution is mixed, poured onto the site, leveled and left to dry. For the durability and strength of the outer concrete layer, it is possible, after the initial setting, to carry out "iron" wet surface dry cement.

  • On the finished site after its full maturation, it will be possible to install a booth for the toilet. A hatch must be arranged on the hole intended for pumping out accumulated waste. You can buy it at the store or make your own. The hatch cover should be easy to open and close.

3. Another option would be a round pit with car tires laid in it. But it should be noted that this type of cesspool is not suitable for permanent use. Such a toilet can only be used in country conditions, when residents come only occasionally, for example, on weekends, otherwise the collected waste will often have to be pumped out.


  • For a cesspool of this type, a round pit is dug 150 ÷ ​​200 mm larger than the diameter of the existing tires.
  • A drainage layer with a thickness of 15–20 cm is laid at the bottom of the pit.
  • Then, tires are laid exactly in the middle of the pit. on the to the other to the ground.
  • Around the tires, as they are laid, drainage from crushed stone and sand is filled up and compacted. This process is carried out to the very top.
  • When the tires are completely laid, a shallow strip foundation can be arranged around the pit. To do this, a trench about 500 mm deep is dug around the perimeter of the future toilet, into which concrete will be poured.
  • trench bottom compacted and covered with a layer of sand of 50 ÷ 70 mm, which is also compacted and closed with a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.
  • The waterproofing is made of dense polyethylene.
  • Then you can proceed in two ways:

– weld and install the reinforcing grid, mount the formwork 100 ÷ 150 mm high above ground level and then pour concrete mortar;

- lay out the foundation of brick, and then plaster it with cement.

  • After the mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed from the cement foundation, and the brick is leveled from above.
  • A roofing material is laid on its surface, which will separate the concrete surface from the wooden one.
  • A finished toilet structure is either installed on the foundation, or it is built independently.

For the convenience of the construction process, a wooden base-frame made of powerful bars is first fixed to the foundation, and other structural elements will be mounted on it, depending on the chosen building model.

4. It is impossible not to mention one more way to equip a cesspool - using metal barrels with a cut bottom. They are installed one on top of the other and in the same way as in the previous case. Around the resulting pipe, a gravel mixture or a mixture of sand and crushed stone is tamped.


Cesspool of metal barrels - obviously will not last long

Prices for country toilets

country toilet

It would seem that the method is simple in execution, but it has much more disadvantages than advantages. Metal barrels under aggressive influence both from the inside and outside, from the side of the ground, corrode very quickly, and such a toilet will last for a very short time.

Popular country toilet projects












Construction of a country toilet house

When both the pit and the site for installing the toilet room are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the house according to a pre-compiled scheme.

Toilet houses can have a wide variety of forms, for example, even in the form of a fabulous hut. The uninitiated will not immediately determine what kind of room it fits so perfectly into landscape design site. It is quite possible to do such a structure with your own hands, knowing the scheme of its assembly.

The photo shows an option partially made of logs, which give this building a decorative effect, mask the purpose of the building itself.


The original teremok - you will not immediately understand that this is a toilet

The diagram shows the basis for building a log cabin, only boards are used instead of logs. You can clearly see how the walls are assembled and the roof slopes rise. Allocated interior space and selected location toilet seat.

Approximate scheme "teremka"

The next step will be the roof lathing, roofing and wall cladding with the material chosen for this - it can be either wood or metal.

Such a house can either be installed on a cesspool, or used as a room for a dry closet.

Video: making a house - "teremka" for a country toilet

Another version of the structure of the toilet, which is called the "hut". In this case, the house is built in the form of a triangle, and its side walls are also a roof. The form is quite simple, so it will not be difficult to build a building.


Toilet - "hut"

This design is not only easy to build, but also convenient to use - it is stable at the base and quite spacious inside.

Installation of a toilet - "hut"

The presented figure shows the entire internal structure of the house, the installation location of the toilet seat and the method of lathing the roof walls. Sheathing of the front part of the building and the rear wall has begun. The “hut” house can be placed on an equipped cesspool, as in this case, or it can also be used as a room for a dry closet.


This form of the house can be called traditional, since most often it can be found on the plots. But even such a simple design can be decorated according to your preference.

For example, it was decided to make a toilet in this backyard territory under a Japanese house. This is evidenced by the hieroglyphs written on a tablet hanging on chains, a Japanese lantern at the entrance, and even additionally arranged roof. In addition, the interior design of the room is also designed in the general style.

A similar attitude to the design of the site suggests that even from such a structure as, you can make small work art, if you put in a little effort.

An approximate scheme for the construction of such a toilet is shown in the figure. It clearly shows the arrangement of a cesspool, the installation of a toilet structure and a hatch for cleaning on top of it. The design is quite simple in the device, and it is not difficult to build it. But in order for it to be reliable, it is necessary to achieve the rigidity of the ligaments of all parts among themselves.

The interior space of the toilet, arranged above the cesspool, in the process of building walls, may look like this. That is, the base bars are installed on the foundation, on which the frame of the future structure is fixed.

After final finishing toilet from the inside, the room can have such a neat and cozy look.

If desired and opportunities can come up with another design for a country toilet, but do everything interior decoration need from warm materials. Not recommended for decoration ceramic tiles, since this is a very cold type of material, and besides this, in winter time the tile becomes also very slippery.

Video: several options for a country toilet device

dry closet

If there is no way to build a country toilet, or there is simply no desire to contact construction work you can use the dry closet. This option will save you from digging a hole and, possibly, from installing a house.


Dry closet is a great solution for dacha conditions

- this is an autonomous toilet that does not require a separate room or connection to branch communications

The dry closet consists of two compartments-chambers, the upper of which plays the role of a toilet, and the other serves for the biological processing of waste. In the second, lower chamber, there are active substances that decompose feces and turn them into a homogeneous, odorless mass. The action of the bioactive liquid for the decomposition of waste is enough for ten days, then the chamber is cleaned by pouring the contents into central sewerage or into the soil. The method of disposal will depend on which active substances will be used in the dry closet. These substances are t three types: composting, chemical and microorganic. Each of them is suitable for a certain type of dry closet.

  • For a composting dry closet, peat is used as an active substance. It has a high absorbency - for example, one kilogram of peat absorbs ten liters of liquid. The odorless compost obtained from active processes is perfect for fertilizing garden beds.

Usually, complete with such a dry closet, there are tons of ventilation pipes that remove unpleasant odors during processing.

  • The dry closet, whose work is based on the use of chemicals, has an indicator that will indicate that the container needs to be cleaned. Waste processed in this way is discharged into the sewer in order to protect the environment. For such models, special substances with non-freezing properties are produced.
  • The third type of this useful device is a dry closet, in which microorganisms are involved in the processing of waste, turning them into compost. The resulting material is environmentally friendly and harmless to soil and animals, so it will not be ore to dispose of it.

Advantages and disadvantages of a dry closet

  • high levels of environmental safety;
  • ease of use;
  • lack of unpleasant odors;
  • affordable price;
  • durable material.

  • odor leakage is possible, installation in a ventilated area is required;
  • if the receiver tank is very dirty, you will have to wash it yourself.
  • use in rooms with low temperature peat dry closet does not seem possible. From the cold, all processing processes stop, the contents of the lower reservoir freezes, as well as the peat itself. The problem is solved by transferring the dry closet to a warm room.

If desired, the dry closet can be installed in the ordinary room, built with their own hands, which is located in the yard, and on winter period- bring it into the house, taking a convenient corner for these needs.

Prices for a popular range of dry closets

Dry closets

Biological products for toilets

Help for owners summer cottages having pit latrines on their premises have been developed special means similar to those used in dry closets.

Before using the product, it is necessary to study the instructions, as the composition is poured or poured in parts. How to use such substances correctly can be found in the information on the package, since each agent is dosed differently. Such a substance is used, as a rule, very sparingly. For example, one package or a can of some funds is enough for a year for a cesspool with a volume of 3.5 ÷ 4 tons.

So, there are many ways to solve the problem of a country toilet - there is always the opportunity to choose one or another option.