Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips. Wooden frame for drywall - built quickly and easily! Fixing drywall to wood frame

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, partitions made of GVL or drywall are used. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.

Types of materials

In addition to the standard GKL, there are such types of material:

moisture resistant;
fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, while fire-resistant is used for other rooms (kitchen, office space).

GKL is great for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room in a natural way.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum-fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

GVL is heavier than GKL;
costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A timber frame is cheaper than a metal one, it is made from wooden planks and bars, softwood is usually used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be on the wall.

Material requirements:

The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
Fire treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective equipment against fire and pests, and checked for knots and irregularities.

Base fixing

Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats must be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Construction tools:

a hammer;
perforator;
nails;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
mounting dowels;
metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

The partition is preliminarily marked on the ceiling with the help of a level, then the wooden frame is fixed;
Fix the strapping bars, starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after it - the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
Having fixed the bars on the ceiling, they make markings on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to mount the frame.
After checking the compliance of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is observed at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will fall on them.
After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting GKL on the base

Begin sheathing from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When sheathed with material on only one side, then the insulation is laid and the electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling cables, but if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

When mounting the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum plasterboard fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.

isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.

Structural insulation

For this, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene is suitable. Rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Working with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, the unevenness should be identified with the help of a beam. For this:

Lay a beam along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
Vertically lean the rack wood beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the whole structure comes out even.

If there are difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, the video will help:

Advantages of using GKL

This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:

low cost and assembly costs;
little weight;
fast installation;
the best sound and heat insulation;
the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
wall alignment;
installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
after installation, there is little debris and dust left.

If everything is done correctly, as a final touch, it remains to complete the decorative wall decoration. And drywall constructions will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

gipsohouse.ru

Is it possible to fix drywall on wooden bars: 7 secrets of good fastening

Sheathing walls with drywall can be done using a frameless connection or using a supporting frame. Today, any design ideas can be realized using such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed from the inside and out, the ceiling is trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of the room is also popular. There are several ways to cover walls with drywall: frameless connection and the use of a supporting frame. Most often, the second method is used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Wooden frame features:

First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden bars, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that humidity adversely affects the frame made of wooden slats.
Carefully inspect the beams before buying: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
The wood from which the slats and timber are made must comply with fire safety standards.
Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more often recommended.

Before sheathing the walls with drywall in a wooden house, impregnate the walls with an antiseptic composition

Wood is an environmentally friendly material that is pleasant to work with.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the pros of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall constructions, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

Availability of material and its low cost.
High construction speed.
Environmental friendliness.
Easy to operate.

You can mount drywall on wooden slats - it's simple and affordable

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for a few days inside the room where the installation will take place, for acclimatization.

Finishing the walls in a wooden house with drywall: preparation for work

In any construction business, special tools are indispensable. To make the job go smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need in working with drywall is listed below.

Instruments:

Drill or screwdriver;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Roulette;
Marker or chemical pencil.

Before you start decorating the walls, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools

Materials:

Wooden slats and bars;
Self-tapping screws, screws;
Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with the cleaning of work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: we make a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
The width of the rails themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of the drywall sheets, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
Fastening the rails is best done directly to the wooden wall and to each other. For these purposes, self-tapping screws are perfect.

You can sheathe a wooden house from the inside using a frame made of wooden beams

The assembly of the frame itself should begin with the fastening of solid bars along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper rails between the vertical bars. Between themselves, parts of the frame can be fastened with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal rails must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin to attach drywall sheets to the resulting slats and beams.

Drywall walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

Before you start attaching drywall sheets to the frame, they need to be cut. When cutting drywall, be careful and careful, use high-quality tools that will ensure your safety.

To cut sheets of drywall you will need:

Long rail or long level;
Pencil or marker;
Sharp knife;
Roulette.

First of all, we measure the desired length and width of the drywall sheet. Next, we cut the first layer of paper with a knife and break the drywall base of the sheet along the cut line. Then we cut through the paper of the sheet on the other side, bending it at an angle of 90®, and grind the uneven ends with sandpaper or a file.

Drywall sheets must be cut before fixing.

When calculating sheet dimensions, you need to take into account that you will arrange them with an offset.

Before installation, you may encounter such a problem as cutouts. They can be on the edge and in the middle of the sheet. If the cutout is located on the edge, with a jigsaw or hacksaw, you need to cut two lines parallel to each other in the opposite direction from the edge and break the drywall sheet. To make a cut in the middle of the sheet, you need to saw through three lines and break.

How to align the walls with drywall in a wooden house: installation of drywall sheets on the frame

After preparing the drywall, you can proceed directly to attaching it to the crate. To do this, we close the sheet to the rails and fix them with self-tapping screws. One edge of the sheet should be as close to the wall as possible. The heads of the screws must be below the level of the sheet.

Important points:

Screws and self-tapping screws should be on wood: they are better fixed in wood.
The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

You can level the walls in a wooden house using a frame on which drywall sheets will be attached.

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or partition made of drywall in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

Putty knife;
Special putty;
Reinforced tape or mesh;
Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.

To process walls or partitions in the house, you will need putty, reinforced tape, an electric drill and a spatula

You need to start work with the preparation of the putty mixture. We advise you to use a special putty for sealing seams. Also choose a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should be with a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

To avoid cracks in the seams, work should be carried out after establishing a constant temperature and humidity in the room.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape of the desired size and glue it onto the treated seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the drywall screws, you need to apply a stack of putty to the right place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can optionally prepare a wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and possibilities.

How to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you follow certain rules and technology when plasterboarding wooden walls, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in a log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)

homeli.ru

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

We will talk only about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate sequence for manufacturing cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the battens and cut them to size. When cutting racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the length of the wall.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting the vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in drywall.

4. Finish (paste over GKL) window and door openings inside. Nail sheets of drywall onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Close the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly even, therefore, in the manufacture of plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The greatest difficulty is the alignment of the bars of the crate vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Installation of the frame with an uneven wall is performed as follows. First, the irregularities of the wall are revealed. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor near the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Perform marking under the racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack bar vertically against the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support beam to the floor so that its outer edge runs along the outer line of the mark. Install the vertical bars on the support, leveling their outer surfaces, inserting, if necessary, gaskets. Evenness is checked by plumb, level and rule. Fix the horizontal beam at the level of the ceiling. It is more convenient to first install two extreme racks (vertical bars) and pull a cord between them. Then they install intermediate racks and check the evenness of the installation along the cord. If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed on the same level), and then all the other bars are set.

To align the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the desired thickness. The spacers can be covered with a little wood glue before hammering into the bars. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and in any of its middle parts there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflecting over a large distance, the step between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, you can simplify the process of mounting the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Bearing bars are inserted into the resulting frame in increments of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies face down on a flat floor, when assembled, it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the stage of leveling each beam is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, having aligned their edges, fix them with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for conventional (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using an electric drill. To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked a partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm so that the drill makes marks on the wall at the exit. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars will have to be performed without a partner, then do so. Find the location of one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which the dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, through holes are drilled in the bar until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After that, the bar can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing a little screw) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the rest of the dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall with dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a pobedit tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Facing the walls of the room with drywall can be started either from the corner, or from the window or doorway. To fasten the sheathing to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special jagged ones) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GCR is attached around the perimeter and to intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The indent from the edges is the same - from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unlined edge at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the head of the nail nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the sheets of drywall for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. Between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the plasterboard sheets, it is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be puttied and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets, when facing, are placed with an offset of adjacent end joints (off-set), and transverse bars are mounted at the joints.

Source: P. Smirnova - Drywall. Step by Step: Encyclopedia of Modern Repair

niola-td.ru

Wooden frame for drywall - how to assemble it yourself? + Video

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability to a supporting structure made of metal profiles.

Gypsum boards (gypsum plasterboards) are a fairly complex material of the composite type. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main among them is high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using GKL, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it favorably from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:

standard;
fire resistant;
moisture resistant.

Types of drywall sheets

GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, Knauf) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for flooring. Due to the fact that GKL does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally safe) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Today, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for various types of repair work. They make both simple designs and chic multi-level structures. Due to this, you can create the most modern bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for mounting drywall sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of GKL is allowed only on a flat wall. But with the help of a frame technique, drywall can be fixed on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless installation method GKL

The frame technology for mounting GKL is a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the structure skeleton and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of drywall sheets on the wall is easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will erect a skeleton for a plasterboard in a matter of hours. And then it will also quickly fasten drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is also a simpler method. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from light and easy-to-install wooden products (battens, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.

It is recommended to build a frame for mounting the GKL on the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo a special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or laths. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:

rodents (the smell of an antiseptic well repels mice and other animals that can damage the structure);
mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
carpenter insects;
biological natural decay.

It is allowed to do the antiseptic protection of wood with your own hands. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to mix the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process with the resulting composition all the elements of the future frame for drywall.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluorine antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during operation. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. Almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium silicofluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, add a little soda (calcined) to it.

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compounds containing the following components:

anthracene oils;
coal;
creosote;
slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before arranging the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to let the wooden products rest in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to the humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The construction we are interested in is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools - hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, levels. Self-tapping screws for drywall, stainless screws and nails, mounting dowels are used as fasteners.

Important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also desirable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. The implementation of the adhesive technology for mounting GKL with their own hands in such high rooms is recognized by professionals as inappropriate.

Installation of plasterboard on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

Analyze the state of the wall surface. Found irregularities are sealed with putty (plaster), areas with a peeling old coating are cleaned.
Mark up the wall. Perform this operation with strict observance of levels and angles (use measuring tools).
The horizontal beam is mounted first. It should be fixed to the floor base with anchors.
Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed beam. They should be about 1 cm from the edge of the crate. The distance between the individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
Check the correct position of the rails with a level.
Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, you should align the frame made. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal beam can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of chipboard products under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fix all its parts. That's the whole technology of assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to proceed with the installation of the GKL on a skeleton made by yourself.

The installation of drywall sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GCR is fixed with wood screws. The mounting step of the hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with a length of no more than 3.5 cm.

Installation of drywall sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with jagged galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the GKL (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the GKL. According to them, you can subsequently easily close the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).

How to sheathe walls with drywall

Partitions made of plasterboard are often used for overdue redevelopment of an apartment or house, introducing something new and unusual into their design or interior. For this, they have all the advantages: their device and installation with their own hands are simple, and even an inexperienced, novice home master can handle this technology. They are cheap to install and after finishing they are indistinguishable from the main walls of the apartment.

Such partitions also have disadvantages. But they can be dealt with. For example, the insufficient mechanical strength of the partition can be significantly increased if gypsum-fiber sheets are used instead of conventional drywall or the structure is strengthened by lining the frame with several layers of drywall. And in wet rooms, when constructing partitions, waterproof drywall is used.

But no matter what partition you decide to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element into the layout must necessarily be agreed with the housing inspection authorities.

Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard wall cladding, are usually made on a wooden or metal frame. The metal frame is more reliable, more technologically advanced, and when using it, it is possible to arrange complex structures that are more difficult to make on a wooden frame. But, in turn, working with a wooden structure is more familiar and it will cost less.

Lumber for the frame partitions use coniferous species. All its elements must be treated with special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.

The material for the frame is chosen, guided by the parameters of the future partition: the higher and longer it is, the larger the section of the frame elements should be. For a partition frame with dimensions of 2.5x (4-5) m, you can take bars with a section of 60 × 80 mm.

The partition frame consists of strapping, racks, as well as horizontal jumpers, usually installed at the joints of drywall sheets. The design can be supplemented with more powerful racks and lintels in doorways, lathing, etc. To improve sound insulation properties, and in country houses - for thermal protection, the frame during the manufacture of partitions is filled with sound and heat insulating materials. In temporary residences, the insulation is additionally protected by moisture and vapor protective films.

Partition frame installation.

This work begins with the installation of the strapping. Strapping bars are attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the floors are wooden, the task is simplified, since ordinary nails are enough to fasten the bars. With a timber thickness of 60 mm, nails 100 mm long are enough. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is fastened with dowel-nails to the wall and floor and with anchors to the ceiling.

Also read on the topic: You should start work with a ceiling beam. Having outlined the boundaries of the partition on the ceiling, the beam is screwed or nailed to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower strapping beam is marked. They do this with a plumb line, a rule with a level, or more modern tools, such as a laser level.

When using traditional tools, at least three marks must be made along the length of the partition - at each of the walls and in the middle. When the marks are made, the lower beam is attached to the floor along them and once again the correctness of its location relative to the upper beam is checked. After that, vertical strapping bars are installed on the walls, connecting the floor and ceiling bars.

Since the main load from the future partition falls on the strapping, it is necessary to fasten it as reliably as possible - with a fastening step of no more than 40 cm. But before you fasten the beam, you need to make sure that the walls themselves are strong. If the walls are made of not very strong materials (cellular concrete, gypsum), dowels of the maximum size are needed and it may be necessary to replace the dowel-nails with specialized dowels that are designed for use with specific building materials. In extreme cases, you can get by with wooden plugs, which are driven into prepared holes and then screws are screwed into them. This method is old, one might say - old-fashioned, but proven.

Another way to fasten the strapping is using direct hangers used in the installation of metal frames. If the walls are sufficiently strong and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and fastest way to fasten the timber.

After the frame of the structure is in place, and checked for verticality, it's time to put the racks. For them, a beam of the same section is used as for tying the frame.

Racks are usually placed in increments of 60 cm. With this step, each drywall sheet (with a standard sheet width of 120 cm) is mounted on three racks.

Racks can be mounted in several ways. The simplest is with the help of sawn wooden bars, which are fastened with screws to the vertical stand itself and to the harness. A more reliable way is to fasten the rack with metal corners, which can be easily made from direct hangers or purchased ready-made.

Horizontal jumpers are also cut out from the same beam. They are fastened by passing a self-tapping screw directly through the vertical posts on one and the other side of the jumper. You can strengthen the connections with metal corners.

If a doorway is provided in the partition, then it is framed with additional racks and a horizontal lintel. They are made from a bar of the same section as the entire frame, or a little larger. The bottom of the door frame is formed either by a strapping frame, or, if there is no need for a threshold, part of it is carefully cut out in the opening, and the edges are additionally fixed with dowel-nails.

It is quite difficult to lay engineering communications in a partition of this type. If, nevertheless, it is necessary to lay, for example, electrical wiring in it, then in the racks you have to drill holes of the desired diameter. At the same time, it is advisable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in pipes - rigid or corrugated, or in tin boxes.

Partition cladding.

When the frame is ready, you can start lining it with drywall. Fasten the sheets with screws with a wide hat. It is first necessary to develop a cladding scheme in which the sheets will have to be cut the least.

It is better to cut sheets in such a way that they do not fit over window and door openings - this can lead to chipping of the edges of the sheets. Where this cannot be avoided, an additional bar is placed at the junction, to which the edges of the sheets are attached.

Do-it-yourself insulation installation

If the partition is supposed to use heat and sound insulation, then its installation is started after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.

There are many insulation materials on the market today.

Both foam and mineral wool materials are well suited.

The chosen spacing when installing the racks corresponds to the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes it easier to work.

Rigid panels are best glued to the inside of the already installed drywall. If at the same time small cavities remain between the plates, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of foam and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.

When sheathing a partition with drywall on the second side, it must be remembered that in order to avoid cracking of the frame racks, when screwing in a large number of screws at the joints, the joints of the sheets must be separated from the joints of the already mounted cladding, shifting them one step to the right or left.

It must also be remembered that a gap of approximately 3-4 mm should remain between the upper edge of the sheet and the ceiling, which will protect the upper edge from chipping. This gap is subsequently closed with a ceiling plinth.

Sheathing of the frame must be performed sequentially from one edge. Screws must be screwed into the racks of the frame perpendicular to the surface of the skin.

Such a partition is the simplest, but despite this it is sufficiently durable and has good soundproofing properties. Its disadvantage is a small thickness, which makes it difficult to lay communications inside the partition.

Extended partitions with your own hands.

The design of partitions on a double wooden frame allows you to solve the problem of laying engineering communications inside the partition and even installing water heating batteries in them. In width, such partitions are much superior to those discussed above.

For the installation of an extended partition, two strappings are installed, separated by a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations during the installation of the frame are performed in exactly the same way as in the first case. First, the distance at which the two frames will be spaced apart from each other is determined, then the strapping bars and vertical racks are mounted.

After one side of the partition is lined, all the necessary communications are laid inside it in pipes or special boxes made of galvanized steel sheet or plastic. It is also possible to install inside the partition and radiators, although this will require additional work. Batteries are installed closer to one of the sides, and ventilation grilles are mounted in front of them in drywall.

It should be remembered that in places where pipes with hot water are laid, foam plastic and foam rubber cannot be used as an insulating material. Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation in these places.

There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition without installing a double frame. In this version, the strapping frame is installed alone, but the vertical posts are attached to the side edges of the strapping bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of racks to the frame is also simplified - neither adapter bars nor corners are needed. To improve sound insulation, rubber or foam pads are placed between the posts and the strapping bars.

In addition to options with single-layer cladding with drywall, there are designs in which sheets are laid in two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, drywall is attached to the bars in such a way that the top sheet overlaps the joint of the bottom layer of sheets.

Having finished the installation of drywall sheets, the seams at the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws are puttied, after which they proceed to finish the partition.

Left - Insulation is laid after the partition is lined with drywall on one side.
On the right - For greater strength of the partition and ease of installation of drywall on the frame, an additional crate is stuffed.

You should also remember that:

In temporary residences (for example, in a summer house), the insulation in the partition should be protected with a vapor barrier film.
Reinforced racks are placed in the places where the doors are installed.

Such a popular finishing material as GKL, in most cases, is attached to a special frame. Usually it is mounted from metal profiles. An alternative option is a crate made of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is far from always possible. Consider all the features of this design and find out when and how you can make a wooden crate for drywall on your own.

Features and disadvantages of wood lathing

The construction of a wooden frame under the gypsum board attracts with its low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the repair a small number of boards remain, which can be used as slats for the supporting structure. In this case, you do not have to spend money on the purchase of a metal profile, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:

Wooden structures are subject to change in geometric dimensions with excessive or insufficient moisture. Drywall attached to such a crate will move with it, resulting in cracks that appear at the joints of the sheets. This is a constant process, as the wood gives off moisture when the room is dry or absorbs it when it is too humid.
Alignment of walls with gypsum boards is often combined with insulation. Under these conditions, ventilation of the wooden parts of the crate is minimal, which leads to their rapid decay.
Bars are not well suited for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the tree can bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas form in the places of such linings.

It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing with a plasterboard ceiling. This design does not have a sufficient margin of safety; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with a high level of humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, a crate made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate indicators.
If it is planned to place electrical wires under the GKL surface, then metal guides must be used: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can I make a frame for gypsum boards out of wood?

It is recommended to use a wooden structure for plasterboard sheets:

In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the crate is ideally combined with the material of the walls due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
In ordinary apartments with perfectly flat walls. In this case, the timber frame will be a reliable basis for fixing the plasterboard.

Advantages

Advantages of a wooden crate:

Simple installation, which can be done by hand.
Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than a metal profile.
If all the necessary conditions are met, a properly installed crate will last a long time and will be a reliable basis for drywall sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, you will need a wooden beam itself with a cross section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If it is planned to carry out insulation and soundproofing, then the beam must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent decay, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be kept indoors for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.

You will also need:

Measuring tool: level, plumb line, tape measure.
Pencil, coated cord.
and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive fixtures.

Lathing installation

Preparatory work consists in removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered with plastic wrap or other material.

The order of the wooden frame device:

First you need to do the markup. The size of the GKL determines the optimal step between the vertical posts - 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the rail on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of a perfectly even overlap, horizontal bars can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the same thickness of all elements of the crate is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in frame irregularities.

Vertical racks are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly according to the level. To the wall, they are mounted on dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the rails and in the wall for fasteners.

In houses with wooden walls, you can mount racks to the base with wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the likelihood that the beam will crack.

The heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep into the sheet by 1 mm.

In the future, as well as deepening the heads of the screws.

After grinding, the surface is primed and ready for further finishing.

Wall cladding with drywall provides for a device or wooden beams. Metal crate is mainly used, it is more durable and practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden bars with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds, for the construction of the frame. In places with high humidity, as well as where an increase in the fire resistance of structures is required, only a metal frame is used.

What beam is needed

For the installation of wooden frames, a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls) is chosen. Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening on the wall and ceiling is performed dowel-nails. In concrete surfaces, holes are first made with a puncher with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners. They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The wooden guide rails are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).

The metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings.

The connection of the elements of a wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are fixed directly to the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled with special compounds or by laying wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

The set of rules for design and construction has the basic requirements that must be followed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

All products and materials must have a hygienic conclusion and fire certificates;
In the space between the frame and the rough base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, fire insulating material;
Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant drywall sheets should be no more than 10%;
Sheets GKLVO (moisture-fire-resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not more than 90%, temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them for surface treatment, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used;
For fastening sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
With longitudinal placement of sheets, the step of their fastening is made no more than 60 cm, with transverse placement - no more than 1.25 m;
To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide bars, ceiling and floor;
Fixing the sheets to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (separately) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
Joints of sheets with their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, with a horizontal one - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
The step of the bearing bars on the ceiling is 50 cm with a transverse arrangement of the GKL, 40 cm with a vertical one;
GKL fastening step on the ceiling - no more than 17 cm.

Step by step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the completion of wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after finishing and laying utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

markup;
Frame assembly;
Installation of sheets;
Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling with a chopping cord, the position of the future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is performed by a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical racks are noted, taking into account the selected step.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical racks. To do this, they make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembly of the frame

Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of \u200b\u200bthe room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is embedded in the frame

Attention! If it is planned to place a heater in the space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take this into account at the stage of calculations by placing the starting beam at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is strengthened by racks located horizontally between them.

Laying communications

If you plan to place sanitary piping and low-voltage wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), you need to do this after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Mounting sheets

Sheets are placed on the frame, fitting close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in a vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping screws are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw entered the material not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced with another one, located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first one.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. Corners are processed using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with a solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

Today, any design ideas can be brought to life with the help of such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed from the inside and out, the ceiling is trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of the room is also popular. There are several ways to cover walls with drywall: frameless connection and the use of a supporting frame. Most often, the second method is used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.