Modern people try to use the area of their home as efficiently as possible. Therefore, the proposal to equip additional space under the roof is always met with enthusiasm. It is much easier to plan the construction of an attic at the stage of building a house, but you can make an additional superstructure above the old building.
How to make an attic on an old house
The presence of an attic not only increases the living space, but also gives the building a colorful look.
The attic turns a country house into a fabulous building
An old house can be updated by building a superstructure in accordance with existing standards.
The attic superstructure begins with calculations of the strength of the old house
First you need to decide whether the existing foundation and walls can withstand the load of the attic floor and the new roof. If they have a sufficient margin of safety, then you can start remodeling the house. Otherwise, they should be strengthened.
Old brick walls sometimes seem strong, but with additional stress, cracks may appear in the mortar over time. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately consider their condition, and, if necessary, tie them with a rigid belt. This is done as follows:
- metal poles with a section of 10x10 cm are inserted into the foundation with the lower edge, and connected with the armored belt of the first floor with the upper edge. Installed around the perimeter of the house every 2 meters;
- metal fittings with a cross section of 12 mm are placed in strakes and tie the house along the walls: from the bottom of the window every 2 meters up;
- a metal mesh with a cell size of 2x2 cm is laid on top of the reinforcement, which, after completion of all work, is covered with plaster.
Strengthening the foundation is carried out by tying with a reinforcing belt from all sides.
If the old foundation cannot withstand the attic, then it must be sheathed with reinforcement
Having decided on the strengthening of the building, you can proceed to the choice of the project of the future superstructure. It should look harmonious against the background of other buildings and match the style of the whole house.
The type of mansard roof will determine the calculation of the dimensions of the inner upper room and the necessary materials for construction
There are several types of attics:
- single-level with a gable roof - low ceilings with a small living space;
A single-level attic with a gable roof is the simplest type of superstructure for small buildings
- single-level with a sloping gable roof - increased interior space, but serious costs and time for construction;
A single-level attic with a broken gable roof is usually built on a brick house
- single-level with cantilever extensions - a complex structure that allows you to get even more area, since the attic frame extends beyond the building, and the windows are installed vertically;
A single-level attic with cantilever extensions allows you to get a lot of internal space by increasing the upper structure
- multi-level with mixed roof support - used in the construction of a new house, built only by specialists.
A multi-level attic with a mixed roof support on old houses is usually not installed due to the complexity and large amount of work.
Video: converting half of the old roof into an attic - an easy way
Alteration of the roof under the attic is a relatively cheap way to increase living space. In a private house, a pitched roof is usually placed, so you can make an additional spacious and bright room with your own hands.
Internal wood paneling makes the attic warm and bright
And if the house is large enough in length, then the attic can turn into a real floor: with several rooms and even a balcony.
A large attic allows you to divide the area into different residential areas
Advantages of creating an attic:
- the possibility of arranging one or more new living rooms;
An attic with low ceilings under a gable roof is most conveniently furnished with low sunbeds
- low costs compared to the construction of a full-fledged floor or a side extension to the house;
- renovation of the exterior of the building;
A house with an attic under construction always attracts the eyes of passers-by and is interested in the final result.
- the opportunity to observe a beautiful view from the attic window.
A lot of sunlight comes through the windows in the attic, illuminating the room all day
However, this solution also has certain disadvantages that must also be taken into account:
- the need for insulation and soundproofing of the ceiling and a new roof, the installation of several double-glazed windows;
- the difficulty of conducting additional heating and lighting in the upper part of the old house - you will have to combine it with home wiring or use an autonomous connection;
To heat the attic with access to the balcony, you can use a potbelly stove
- layout of a part of the home space under the stairs leading to the attic;
The stairs leading to the attic must be fenced for safety.
- the need to purchase special furniture for a sloping roof or purchase squat models: low cabinets, sofas and tables.
Low furniture is best suited for attic interiors
The presence of sloping walls makes the room unusual and romantic, but with this decision you will have to take a more responsible approach to design development. You can make furniture for an inclined superstructure yourself or assemble a single complex from existing multi-level models, painting everything in one color.
Furniture that repeats the slope of the attic can be made independently
So, the main disadvantage of converting an attic into an attic is the need to invest, but it's worth it.
Building an attic will cost much less than creating an additional floor, regardless of what materials will be used to build the walls. Indeed, to create them, you will need the main material, insulation and decoration, while for the attic superstructure you only need roof insulation and a new truss system.
The superstructure is made in a symmetrical or asymmetrical shape. Internal walls are designed both inclined and vertical.
Having studied the schemes of single-level attics with different types of roofs, it is easier to make a choice when planning
Alteration of the attic into an attic does not require the dismantling of all existing structures. But you need to make sure that the ceiling is reliable: check its condition, reinforce it with wooden or metal beams, sheathe it with a new board. Then it will be able to withstand the weight of furniture and people.
For frequent climbing to the attic, you will need to make a comfortable staircase, provide for the installation of ventilation, natural and artificial lighting, and perform interior decoration - all this will create a cozy and comfortable room.
The sloping roof superstructure, decorated in light colors, visually enlarges the space, while splashes of color add brightness to the interior.
When building an attic floor, the following conditions must be met:
- rafters are made of glued timber with a thickness of at least 250 mm so that the required amount of insulation can be laid;
- foamed polystyrene is used for insulation due to its low weight and high thermal insulation characteristics;
- a gap is left between the thermal insulation and the roofing material to provide natural ventilation;
- a hydro- and sound-proof layer must be laid.
Alteration of the roof under the attic do it yourself
During the construction of a house, there is usually not enough money, so many refuse to build a second floor. Or another situation may arise when an old one-story house of a small area is purchased along with the site. In both cases, there is an affordable option for increasing the place to live - do-it-yourself restructuring of the attic space into an attic.
Create a project
Before starting work, you need to draw up a plan and develop a project with accurate drawings. The correct calculation will allow you to get a cozy, durable and reliable room. You can perform all the calculations yourself or entrust it to specialists.
You can draw a plan and develop a draft design yourself by studying various options on the Internet
Strengthening the walls and foundation may be necessary in the event of a complete replacement of the rafters. If the roof is partially redone, then reinforcement may be needed only for overlapping. You also need to immediately decide what types of windows will be used in the attic: the reinforcement in the truss system will depend on this.
The location of all windows in the attic roof must be thought out in advance and this data entered into the project plan
truss system
Rafters can be layered or hanging. The former rest on the inner walls of the house or additional supports, and the latter on the outer walls.
In the attic, layered and hanging rafters are used.
Hanging rafters are best suited for the attic.
An attic with hanging rafters looks prettier and wins in the size of the internal area
The attic usually occupies the entire space of the attic, and its walls are combined with the outer ones.
The best option for creating an attic is a layered truss system.
The rafter system consists of different load-bearing bars. To understand the structure of the entire structure and build it correctly, you need to understand the purpose and operation of its individual elements.
The image of the individual elements of the truss system helps to understand the structure of the entire structure
Refurbishment of the premises
With a sufficient height of the attic, the truss system does not need to be redone. It is enough to inspect the old rafters, identify possible flaws and eliminate them.
If the truss system is in good condition, you can proceed to the arrangement of the floor. Insulation is first laid between the lags, after which the surface is sheathed with ordinary boards or sheets of OSB, chipboard.
The floor in the attic is insulated and covered with boards
Before laying the insulation, all necessary communications are mounted between the rafters, places are cut in the roof for installing windows. carried out before warming.
All wires and pipes of communications must be placed in special corrugations
Care must be taken to create natural ventilation of the under-roof space through the vents so that moisture does not accumulate inside the room.
Roof insulation
It is necessary to insulate the roof correctly and efficiently - the microclimate under the roof will depend on this. Typically, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam is used as insulation.
A thick layer of heat insulator is tightly laid and fixed between the rafters so that there are no gaps or gaps anywhere. On the upper part of the roof - between the roof and the insulation - waterproofing is mounted, then heat-insulating material is laid from the side of the room. Then from the inside the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.
For better ventilation, a small distance is left between the roofing material and the insulation: this is how air circulates through the holes in the cornice and ridge. If the roof is covered with corrugated sheets, then the thickness of the gap should be 25 mm, if with flat material, then it should be increased to 50 mm.
When creating attic thermal insulation, it is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of layers
When planning an ascent to the attic, you need to take care of the convenience and safety of movement. Therefore, the ladder is usually mounted inside the house. It is constructed from wood or metal: it can be either a screw or a marching structure.
The staircase to the attic can be of different types and designs, which allows it to fit into any interior.
An opening is cut in the ceiling of the first floor, which is reinforced along the perimeter with metal or wooden strapping.
The design of the stairs to the attic must be durable, reliable, safe and beautiful.
Interior decoration
For wall cladding, in most cases, gypsum boards are used, the seams between them are plastered. Wallpaper is glued on top or decorative plaster is applied. An alternative option is lining or natural wood.
If some rafters protrude through the walls into the attic, then they can be designed as decorative elements and even used as a horizontal bar for hanging a hammock, swing, chandelier and other fixtures.
The design of the visible parts of the rafters in the interior of the attic is an interesting and creative business.
It is not recommended to use heavy finishing materials in the attic, as they increase the load on the walls, ceiling and foundation of the building.
There are many options for interior decoration of the attic, but it is advisable to use only light materials.
To cover the floor, you can use a laminate or linoleum, and it is better to refuse tiles or porcelain stoneware.
Roof of the attic floor
The roof of a residential superstructure should consist of the following layers (in order - from the street to the interior):
Video: why and how to properly lay layers on the roof of the attic
Mansard roof calculations for a house
Determination of the total weight of the roof
To calculate the total weight of roofing materials, it is necessary to multiply the specific gravity of one square meter of coverage by the total area of the attic roof. To obtain the weight of one square meter, it is necessary to add up the specific gravity of all the materials that make up the roofing cake, and multiply it by the safety factor (1.1).
If the thickness of the crate is 25 mm, then its specific gravity is 15 kg / m 2, a 10 cm thick insulation has a specific gravity of 10 kg / m 2, and ondulin roofing material has a weight of 3 kg / m 2. It turns out: (15 + 10 + 3) x1.1 \u003d 30.8 kg / m 2.
According to existing standards, the load on the ceiling in a residential building should not exceed 50 kg / m 2.
Roof area determination
To calculate the surface of a sloping roof, you need to break it into simple shapes (square, rectangle, trapezium, etc.) and determine their area, and then add everything up. To determine the surface of a gable roof, it is necessary to multiply the length by the width, multiply the resulting value by two.
Table: determination of the attic roof area
When calculating the angle of inclination, the climatic zone in which the house is located is taken into account, and that it is convenient to move in the attic in full growth
It is also necessary to calculate the slope of the roof. Usually the angle is 45–60 degrees, but when determining it, one must take into account the climatic zone in which the house is located, the type of attic construction, snow, wind loads, and the architectural design of the house.
The greater the angle of inclination of the roof, the less will be the load on the truss system, but the consumption of materials will increase.
Calculation of the truss system
When choosing a truss system, you can stop at the following options:
- hanging rafters;
- oblique type;
- skating run;
- combined design.
If the length of the roof is more than 4.5 m, then support runs and struts can be used for reinforcement. With a length of more than 7 meters, a ridge beam is installed.
For wooden rafters, a bar with a thickness of at least 70 mm is used. The step of their installation should be 50 cm.
On a large area, it is better to fix a metal truss system: due to the increase in the distance between the rafters, the absence of spacers and struts, the weight of such a structure will be less than that of a wooden one, and the strength will increase significantly.
If the attic area is large, then it is better to install metal rafters
Calculation of the required amount of materials
To carry out the calculation, you need to know the following parameters:
- width, thickness and pitch of the rafters;
- distance from the edge of the roof to the rafters;
- the size of the boards for the crate and the step between them;
- size, type of roofing material and overlap between its sheets;
- type of steam, hydro and thermal insulation material.
The roof is divided into simple shapes and the required amount of each of the materials is determined. For this, simple mathematical formulas are used.
The results obtained are converted into standard values: for wood - in cubic meters, for roofing materials, steam, hydro and thermal insulation - in square meters. And you can go to the store.
Common Mistakes
Most often, with self-calculation, errors are obtained during the determination of the required amount of insulation. If the climatic conditions are severe, then its volume will have to be increased, otherwise it will not be possible to create comfortable living conditions in the attic. The insulation is laid on the floor of the house, the walls of the gable and the slopes of the roof. But everywhere the thickness of the insulation can be different.
Video: calculation of a mansard roof with diagrams and loads
The attic floor allows you to get additional living space and gives the private house a modern attractive appearance. It is not difficult to create an attic with your own hands, you just need to draw up a project correctly, perform calculations and carry out high-quality installation of all materials. And the result will please the owners for a long time.
The attic device allows you to expand the usable space of the house. A structure with a high roof slope will look solid, and its construction will require less effort than the construction of a two-story building. The article will discuss how to make a mansard roof at home with your own hands.
Varieties of roof structures and roofs
How to make a mansard roof at home depends primarily on the intended design of the roof.
There are 2 types of roof for the organization of the attic:
- Standard double slope. The roof structure has 2 inclined slopes. The pediments in this case are triangular.
- broken roof. Both slopes in this design are divided into 2 more. The gables have a pentagonal shape.
How to make a mansard roof
The device of a gable roof is much simpler. But it should be understood that the attic in this design will come out small and with low ceilings. Therefore, to complete the task, a sloping roof with a slope angle of 40 to 45 degrees is preferable. And the smaller the slope, the larger the attic room will turn out. But in this case, additional strengthening of the structure is necessary, adjacent beams between the rafters.
There are 2 types of roof structures:
- Layered structures. In this case, only the outer walls serve as a support for the rafters.
- Hanging structures. In them, additional strength is given due to the capital partitions on which the rafters rest.
The layered version can be implemented if there are no such partitions. But in this case, the load-bearing walls will have a very high load. Therefore, it is allowed to install layered structures only if the distance between the main walls is not more than 8 meters. If this is not the case, then it is preferable to organize hanging truss systems.
How to build a mansard-type roof with a broken slope? For this purpose, combined types of structures are mainly installed. In them, the upper rafters are mounted in a hanging manner, the rest - in a layered manner. This design is the most rational for buildings with a small roof slope.
To organize an attic room with ceilings of 2.5 meters, you need to make a roof with a height of 3.1 meters to a break. The preferred design slope is 60 and 30 degrees. At the top of the rafters, angles from 15 to 45 degrees are possible.
Do-it-yourself Mauerlat installation
Mauerlat in construction is the lower roof support, which is installed on top of the load-bearing outer walls. It allows you to support the roof structure, taking on a certain part of the load. Let's figure out how to make a mansard roof yourself.
To organize a gable structure, it is necessary to fix the Mauerlat on both sides of the building where the rafters are located. In this case, the load from the roof will be distributed over the surface of the walls. If the roof structure is relatively light, then it is possible to install a power plate under the rafter legs. In other cases, it is placed around the entire perimeter of the walls.
It is necessary to prepare a beam of coniferous wood, which will be used for the manufacture of Mauerlat. It is recommended to apply a waterproofing layer on the material. Roofing felt or bitumen are great for the task.
For do-it-yourself installation of a mansard roof to the base, threaded studs are used, designed for a wide washer. In its design, you need to make holes corresponding to the size of the mount. The drilling step should not exceed 2 meters.
Now consider the option of how to make an attic roof with your own hands, if the house is brick. Wooden plugs are used to install the Mauerlat on brick walls. It is advisable to leave pockets in the masonry - special gaps for laying the structure. In this case, the installation procedure will be easier. In the brickwork, you can place a wire rod, to which you can easily screw the Mauerlat to the base. If it is planned to build a house from concrete slabs or aerated concrete, then it is necessary to install an armored belt with metal studs. Moreover, their length should be such that it is enough to install the Mauerlat, followed by tightening with a lock nut.
In wooden structures, it is possible to replace the standard support with a beam or an upper log of a log house. This is another way to properly make a mansard roof.
Installation of runs and struts
Runs - additional horizontal beams designed to strengthen the structure.
Types of runs:
- Side. Such runs are placed along the entire slope of the roof. Their number depends on the surface area, as well as its slope.
- Skate. Used as a support for the top of the rafters. Ridge runs do not have to be used for broken roofs.
Instructions for the construction of a mansard roof with your own hands step by step:
- The first step is laying the Mauerlat.
- Then you need to place a temporary flooring on the roof so that it is convenient to move along it.
- Now the installation of a U-shaped frame of racks, crossbars and girders is underway.
- When the frame is completed, 50x150 mm rafters must be laid on it. Struts will add rigidity to the structure.
Installation of rafter legs
There are 2 types of fastening rafters:
- sliding(it is also called hinged). It provides for the so-called sled in the mount, along which the rafters move along the Mauerlat. It is suitable for the possibility of settling at home.
- Rigid. In this case, staples with bolts or wire with nails are used for connection.
The option of how to properly make an attic with a sliding mount demonstrates greater reliability, since it takes into account the mobility of the roof elements when the soil subsides. A sliding fastener will be useful when building a wooden house, for which shrinkage is possible. It will help the roof "adjust" to the movement of the building.
How to build a roof correctly
Recommendation: to understand the location of the upper rafters, it is worth making a temporary rack of bars. It is fixed on the Mauerlat so that its top is located along the center line of the roof. This design will be a hint when aligning the upper rafters, which will greatly facilitate the task.
It is necessary to make the upper part of the Mauerlat bevelled. It is advisable to pre-make thinner boards. Then it must be attached to the run and circle its contours. And already according to the received form, drink it down. This approach will allow you to do the job more accurately. Now you know how to build a mansard roof with your own hands.
In an effort to effectively use the entire available area of a country house, many owners equip the attic. When doing this, you must be prepared to arrange the roof in a certain way. At its core, the attic is a converted attic and requires certain design solutions and some alterations in thermal insulation and roofing. In general, the construction of a mansard roof of a country house is not much different from the construction of other types of roofs. But due to the operational features of the attic roof and the requirements for it, it is necessary to have knowledge and understanding of the specifics of arranging this type of roof.
Types of mansard roofs
Like any construction work, the construction of the attic roof begins with the design stage and the selection of the most suitable mansard roof for the structure, its type and type. For the attic, single-pitched or ordinary and broken gable roofs are used. In addition, the appearance of the roof is influenced by the materials used and the design features of the roof itself.
Depending on the design features of the building itself, during the construction of the attic, several standard roof solutions are used. Mansard roofs: photo and description
- gable roof for a single-level attic. This option is a conventional gable roof, under which an attic is built. During the design and construction, there are no great difficulties due to the simplicity of calculations and the ease of work on the construction of the truss structure. The main disadvantage of this roof design is the small attic interior with rather low ceilings.
- Sloping gable roof for a single-level attic. Unlike the usual gable roof for the attic, the broken structure uses 4 pitched planes located at different angles. This type of roof structure is somewhat more difficult to design and build, but its undeniable advantage is the full-sized interior space.
- One level mansard roof with remote consoles. The design of this type of roof is more complex than the previous ones. But a spacious room and full-fledged vertical windows compensate for the shortcomings in the complexity of design and construction. The design feature of the attic with such a roof is its displacement and extension beyond one of the sides of the house, and the roof is more like a shed.
- Two-level mansard roof with a mixed type of support. Roofs of this type are the most difficult to design and build. Such roofs are designed in conjunction with the house, as a whole, due to the multi-level placement of rooms.
Various projects of mansard roofs in their design are not much different from ordinary pitched roofs. Of course, there are certain design features, but in general they are the same as gable or single slope, and consist of the following main elements:
. Roof. The outer part of the roof, which performs the function of protection from various atmospheric phenomena.
. crate. Most often, wooden boards to which the roof is attached, as well as insulating materials.
. Skate run. The upper part of the entire truss structure.
. rafters. These are the stiffeners of the entire roof structure, they can be layered and hanging. For the roof of the attic, layered rafters are used.
. Mauerlat. This structural element consists of beams laid along the perimeter of the external walls and connected to the walls using special fasteners. The entire truss structure is attached to the Mauerlat.
.Diagonal ties. To ensure the reliability and strength of the entire truss structure, the rafters are connected to the longitudinal beams and vertical posts using diagonal ties or bevels.
. Internal supports. To give the roof stability, the rafters and / or ridge run are supported by vertical beams.
. insulating layer. Due to the fact that the roof of the attic and the interior are practically one whole, a multi-layer insulating cake is laid between the roof and walls of the room to maintain the temperature and humidity conditions. The insulation consists of hydro and vapor barriers, sound and noise insulation, as well as a thick layer of thermal insulation. In addition, proper insulation of the attic roof is also important for the safety of the roof itself.
Mansard roof construction technology
When designing and erecting a mansard roof, many builders and designers, either out of ignorance or doing their job somehow, make serious mistakes in insulation, ventilation and truss construction. As a result, a mansard roof is obtained, which, literally after a couple of seasons, becomes unusable, fungus, mold appear, and the roof begins to leak or completely collapses. This happens due to a violation of the construction technology of the mansard roof.
Due to the fact that the roof of the attic is maximally attracted to the walls of the interior, and it is rather difficult to obtain excellent heat transfer performance in this case, the entire structure of the attic roof must have excellent thermal insulation, ventilation and a properly erected truss structure using wood treated with fire and biological protection.
To make the attic roof reliable and durable, you need to know the following:
- the thickness of the rafters must be more than 250 mm. For such rafters, you can use glued laminated timber;
- as thermal insulation, use materials that will not lose their properties in case of increased humidity. For example, extruded expanded polystyrene or foamed glass;
- between the roof and the thermal insulation layer we make a full-fledged ventilation with air ducts and extracts, through which air will circulate under the entire surface of the roof;
- on the inside, over the entire surface of the thermal insulation, it is necessary to equip a vapor barrier layer;
- on the outside of the rafters, a layer of waterproofing and, if necessary, a layer of sound insulation are laid under the roof.
Such requirements are due to certain natural and physical phenomena. But first things first:
A large thickness of the rafters is required to be able to lay a layer of thermal insulation between them with a thickness of 20 cm, and this, in turn, entails an increase in the mass of the entire roof structure, which is held by the rafters.
Wood for the entire structure is treated with special means to protect against fire and microorganisms, which is a strict requirement of SNiP. This will protect it from damage by fungi and increase its service life.
If such popular materials as mineral and glass wool are used for thermal insulation, then you can only win in the convenience of installation and lightening the entire structure as a whole. But cotton wool, whatever it is, is cotton wool, which, like a sponge, absorbs water, cakes and loses its insulating qualities. If you choose any material other than polystyrene and foamed glass, you should focus on complete resistance to moisture, low heat transfer coefficient and relatively low weight.
The thickness of thermal insulation of 20 cm is necessary because in our latitudes it is very cold in winter and very hot in summer. A feature of the design of the attic are large heat losses in winter and rapid heating of the room in summer. A large layer of thermal insulation will prevent heat loss and its penetration inside. But this is only one of the reasons, the second is the safety of the roof. The fact is that the heat that leaves their premises in winter heats up the roof, on which lies a layer of snow and partially causes it to thaw, and snow is a natural insulation. Melted snow at sub-zero temperatures turns into ice, which has no thermal insulation properties, it makes the roof heavier and finally destroys the roof itself. And since up to 100 thawing and freezing cycles can take place in one day, the roofing material will fail in just one season. In the summer, the room becomes incredibly hot and stuffy, and an air conditioner, or even two, is required. But these inconveniences can be avoided by equipping a thick layer of proper thermal insulation.
Equally important is the full ventilation of the roof. It will help to cool the roof, both in summer and winter, as well as remove excess moisture from under the roof. All this will ensure comfortable living in the attic room, protect against the appearance of mold, fungi and rot, in addition, keep the roof from destruction in winter.
Regarding steam, hydro and sound insulation, then everything is simple. Vapor barrier passes through itself excess moisture from the side of the premises and prevents its penetration from the outside, waterproofing protects heat-insulating materials and the room from accidental ingress of moisture. And soundproofing reduces the level of noise from rain, hail and wind impacts on the roof surface.
Phased construction of a mansard roof
The implementation of all work on creating a roof for the attic requires builders to have some experience in this area. Unlike conventional pitched roofs, building a mansard roof with your own hands is somewhat more difficult due to the arrangement of windows located at an angle in the roof itself and the broken structure of the slopes. To build a mansard roof with your own hands, you must adhere to the following stages of work:
Design
The first thing to do is to develop a roof project. To do this, you can turn to specialists or, if you are good with a computer, do everything yourself in an architectural program. Also at this stage, all the necessary calculations of loads, the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, and so on, are carried out. To do everything right, you should refer to a document such as SNiP "Loads and Impacts" for the necessary information.
The construction of the truss frame
This stage of work is the most time-consuming, and in order for the mansard roof to be made with high quality by hand, the combined efforts of 3-4 people will be required. We begin the construction of the attic roof with laying and fixing the Mauerlats around the entire perimeter of the house, using a bar with a section of 100x100 mm.
Mansard roof construction photo:
After that, we install a frame for the attic, the racks of which will also serve as supports for the roof structure. To do this, we use a bar with a section not less than the section of the longitudinal beams on which the racks will rest. First of all, we install vertical racks at the beginning and at the end of the building. We fix them to the longitudinal beams using special stamped metal corners and self-tapping screws. To facilitate all work on fasteners, we use a screwdriver. Now we lay a jumper on top of the racks and fix it.
We stretch the cord between the two received arches, and if everything was done correctly, it will be strictly along the horizon, if not, you will have to disassemble one of the arches, cut it a little and reinstall it. Now, along the stretched cord, we install similar arches with a step that is provided for the rafters. We connect the resulting arches with jumpers, which we fix with stamped corners or nail plates.
Having assembled the frame of the future interior, we proceed to install the rafters. We start with those that have the largest angle of inclination and are on the same level with the frame of the attic room. There are no special difficulties here. The beam for the rafters is cut to the desired estimated length, a groove is cut at the base of the beam for installation on the Mauerlat, and the top is cut at a certain angle. After that, each rafter is installed in place and fixed to the main structure.
The next step is a little more difficult, as you will have to install the upper rafters. The difficulty lies in maintaining a certain angle and centering of the entire structure. To facilitate the task, you can first make a template from two long boards that will exactly repeat the future connected rafters. Using this template, we cut the rafters on the ground and then set them in place. The installation algorithm for the rafters is the same as for the arches of the frame of the interior.
At the end of the installation of the rafter structure, we nail the crate. For the crate, both ordinary boards and sheets of plywood or chipboard can be used. This will already depend on the type of roofing materials.
Making an Insulation Pie
Having installed the rafters and the crate, we proceed to create an insulating layer. To do this, first of all, we lay a vapor barrier on the inside of the rafters and fix it to the rafters with brackets. Next, we lay the heat-insulating material and carefully make sure that it lies close to the rafters and does not leave gaps. On top of the thermal insulation, in increments of 50 cm, we fill the crate, which will hold all the thermal insulation.
On the outside of the rafters, we lay a layer of waterproofing, which will protect against accidental penetration of moisture. Finally, we lay the roof over the waterproofing.
Mansard roof construction: video tutorial
The variety of ready-made attic roof projects is very extensive. They can be with or without windows, rounded or strictly straight, with one slope or several. But whatever the roof of the attic, its construction will require the knowledge and skills of a construction master.
The device of the attic in an individual house is a fairly common phenomenon. This method of construction allows you to reduce the cost per square meter and create a rather interesting room in the under-roof space. In order to properly perform the device of the attic floor, it is necessary to study the basic requirements for it and choose the right type of roof and its slope.
What is an attic
According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roof, which is used to accommodate residential and utility rooms. At the same time, the height of the outer walls should be no more than 1.5 m in the general case, otherwise the space will be considered a full-fledged residential floor.
A do-it-yourself attic is beneficial both during construction and during the operation of a private house. In the first case, costs are reduced due to the fact that the height of the vertical enclosing structures is reduced. The roof takes on this function without ceasing to fulfill its original purpose.
An attic is an under-roof space that can be equipped as a separate room for living.
In operation, cost savings can be as follows:
- Decreased space to be heated, consequently, there is a reduction in heating costs, which are an impressive item in the cost of utilities.
- After the construction is completed, the house must be measured by specialists from the BTI, after which a passport of the object is issued. It is on the basis of the area values \u200b\u200bgiven in it that taxes are charged and utility bills are paid (provided that they are connected to centralized systems and there are no metering devices, which is now practically not found). The area of the attic floor is included in the area of the whole house with coefficients of 0.7 or 0.8, depending on the height of the outer wall and the angle of the roof, which allows significant savings throughout the entire life of the facility.
Preparatory stage
It is worth starting construction with the development of a project or diagrams on which the future structure will be drawn. Most often, the roof that is used for the attic floor is gable, but it is also possible to use a hip four-pitched roof. The gable design makes it possible to provide full-fledged windows in the gables.
In the case of using a hip to illuminate the premises, it is possible to install only attic window openings. This option can become more time consuming in terms of installing roof elements and designing interiors. Cost reduction with a hip roof is achieved due to the absence of gables (especially the savings will be noticeable in a brick house, where the cost of materials and the installation of wall fences themselves is quite high).
Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with determining the geometric dimensions and shapes of the roof. Earlier it was already said about the choice of the type of rafter system at home (gable, hip), after which it will be necessary to decide whether the slope will be straight or broken. The broken structure has such disadvantages as increased cost and labor intensity. Its use is justified by the need to increase the height of the room by changing the angle of the roof.
At the design stage, the optimal slope of the roof is determined. Its choice depends on ergonomic considerations and the roofing material used, which imposes limitations.
Before making an attic, it is also necessary to calculate all its load-bearing elements for strength and bending, select the composition of the roof pie, perform thermal engineering calculations and decide on the materials. More on this later.
Main bearing elements
The design includes the following components:
- rafter legs, which transfer the load from the weight of the roofing and the wall to the walls of the house. The section is selected depending on the angle of inclination, span, step and design load. A professional can correctly perform a detailed calculation. For private construction, approximate values \u200b\u200bcan be used, while it is best to provide a small margin.
- Narozhniki- these are rafter legs, which, on one or both sides, are supported by slanted ones. The cross section is calculated in the same way as for rafters.
- Slanted legs- a design that is used in a hip roof. This element serves as a support for the sprigs. The cross section is taken depending on the load and the span, in any case it should be larger than that of the rafter legs.
- Mauerlat- an element that serves as a support for the stops and transfers the load from the roof to the walls, evenly distributing it. It will be correct to choose a section with dimensions of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150, depending on the complexity of the object. Mounting of the Mauerlat is not carried out during the construction of frame and wooden houses, since in this case we play the upper crown of the walls or the strapping in its role.
- Rigel- a beam, which is also a support for the rafters, but already in the upper part. The crossbar is installed in the ridge of the roof or at the break of the slope, in case of a broken structure. The cross section should be taken depending on the conditions, as a recommended value, dimensions of 200 by 200 mm can be given.
- Struts, racks, fights- additional elements for unfastening elements. They are used to reduce the cross section of load-bearing structures. Their cross section is most often chosen constructively. At the same time, it is important to take into account the convenience of making connections.
A do-it-yourself mansard roof should be built starting from the selection of sections of all elements of the roof frame. The material for manufacturing is selected taking into account the following conditions:
- wood must be coniferous (pine, spruce, larch);
- material grade - first or second;
- humidity not more than 15%.
Be sure to treat all boards and bars with antiseptic compounds before starting construction.
Thermal engineering calculations
To keep the heat in the house, you will need to choose the thickness of the insulation. Most often, mineral wool is used for attic rooms (more often in slabs than in mats). It is also possible to use polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Having determined what to make the heat-insulating layer from, select its thickness. It is important to consider the height of the rafters. It must always be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. For mineral wool, it will also be necessary to provide a 50 mm ventilation gap between the upper surface of the heat insulator and the roofing. If the cross section of the rafters is small, then in order to fulfill this requirement, a counter-lattice is installed.
Before you build a mansard roof with your own hands, you can calculate it according to heat engineering manually, guided by the Joint Venture "Thermal Protection of Buildings". But it is better to turn to special programs for help. In order to correctly calculate the thickness in the Teremok program (freely available on the network), you need to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the area of \u200b\u200bconstruction of the house, the program will find the rest itself.
A do-it-yourself mansard roof differs from a conventional pitched roof only in the presence of thermal insulation. More layers are also added to the cake to protect the insulation. The step-by-step instructions below will allow you to correctly install the elements of the mansard roof.
The procedure is as follows:
- fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
- installation of rafters and systems of struts and racks;
- installation of waterproofing and wind protection;
- crate;
- roofing;
- warming;
- bottom trim.
Assembling the roof frame
Installation begins with a Mauerlat. It is laid on the inner grant of the outer wall. Fastening depends on the material of the load-bearing walls, but in general it can be done in several ways:
- on staples;
- on studs;
- on the anchor.
For fragile materials of the walls of the house, such as aerated concrete and foam concrete, a monolithic belt is made along the edge, which will prevent the destruction of the walls. Mauerlat is not provided for wooden and frame houses.
Next, you need to install the crossbars, if any. After the supporting structures are laid, the rafter legs are laid out. The fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat can be rigid and articulated. It is better to do it with the use of cutting and fixing with metal corners on both sides.
This is a fairly old album, so nails are used as fasteners in all the drawings in it. It is better to replace them with studs. The design of the roof of the house in this regulatory document is shown in great detail, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with it before starting work.
Before starting the installation of insulation in the house, it is necessary to ensure its protection from negative environmental influences. To do this, a moisture-windproof membrane is spread over the surface and the crate is fixed. After that, the roofing is mounted, taking into account the recommendations for the selected material. For example, bitumen shingles require a solid crate, which is most often made of moisture-resistant plywood.
Installation of thermal insulation
To perform the insulation of the house, you need to install a heater without gaps and cracks. For mineral wool, it will be easier to install if the distance between the rafters is 580 or 1180 mm clean. This will allow you to lay the material with a slight expansion, which will prevent cracks.
When using expanded polystyrene, the distance between the plates and rafters is filled with sealant or mounting foam.
After laying the insulation, you need to fix the vapor barrier to it from below. After that, the lower crate and ceiling lining are mounted. For the attic, sheathing with two layers of drywall 12.5 mm thick along the frame is best suited, followed by finishing.
Today, more and more people prefer to settle in their own home, where you can create full-fledged comfort and coziness for the whole family. It is even better when this house is created according to your own project and with your own hands. However, in this case, it is necessary to know every nuance from laying the foundation to the erection of the roof. This type of gable roof allows you to create additional residential square meters for arranging a living room, bedroom, office or other room. In this article, we will consider the device of a gable mansard roof, and the step-by-step process of its construction.
general information
Remember. All instructions are for guidance only. For the construction of the roof, we recommend using the services and advice of specialists, because. each case is specific.
Before you start building a house, you need to make the entire project and drawing of the roof with finished dimensions, roof height, number of slopes, etc. In this example, we will consider the construction of a classic gable mansard roof, which is the most popular in our time.
Today you can find different types of gable mansard roofs.
A) and B) classic gable roofs;
C) a broken roof with a variable sloping angle;
D) shed roof with remote consoles;
E) a two-tiered roof with displaced support spikes.
However, you can develop your own project that would best suit your parameters and requests.
Attention! Before starting work, you can calculate the approximate cost of work and the amount of materials for the construction of the roof. To do this, we have specially developed online applications on our website:
Mauerlat installation
Mauerlat bars serve as a reliable support for the future truss structure, which will securely fix the entire frame.
Mauerlat must be used at the point of inclination of the rafters. If the roof is of a gable type, then we install the Mauerlat on two sides, if the roof is four-pitched, then along the perimeter of the entire roof.
It is most correct to use a monolithic pouring of concrete with studs of the required length and 1 cm thick for fixing the Mauerlat. In order for the studs to securely fix the Mauerlat bars, they must protrude 3 cm above the concrete.
Important! Mauerlat bars must be selected based on the load of the entire roof. In our case, we use a section of 10x10 cm, but 15x15 cm and 20x20 cm are also available.
To determine the step between the studs, it is necessary to calculate where the joints of the rafters and the Mauerlat will be located so that there are studs between these joints. If the stud rests against the rafter or its cutout, then this will not only weaken the structure, but can also lead to cracks in the board. For example, if the step between the rafters is 1 meter, then we also use a step of 1 m between the studs, only in the center between the two rafters.
It is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing (roofing felt) on the studs before installing the Mauerlat. On each bar for the studs, we drill through holes opposite each stud. To fix the stud and Mauerlat, we use nuts with washers.
Advice! To the brick walls, the Mauerlat bars can be fixed to the studs that are inserted into the masonry at the stage of building the box.
Do-it-yourself rafter system of a gable mansard roof
Before proceeding with the installation of rafters, we need to make a template for all truss trusses.
To do this, we climb out to the top of the house, where we connect the boards at the right angle and fix them with a crossbar and make marks for future cutouts near the wall and Mauerlat. After that, on the ground, we begin the assembly of roof trusses, followed by their lifting and installation on the roof.
First of all, we begin the installation of extreme rafters 4 meters long (3.5 meters from the stop to the ridge and 0.5 meters will go to the slope), which should be on the same level and strictly symmetrical if the roof is gable as in our example. At the time of installation of the two extreme rafters, they must be strengthened for reliability with two braces as in the photo below and a corner below. We use a plumb line for the horizontal position of the first extreme rafters. Between them we stretch the thread, along which we will install other rafters according to the level.
Next, we proceed to the installation of special racks, which will transfer gravity to the walls through the truss structure. For fixing, metal corners were used, which we fix with wood screws, 6 on each side of the stop.
Construction of a gable mansard roof video with a step-by-step photo report
Now we begin to assemble the truss structure throughout the frame. After installing the rafter leg, we fix it on the other side with the second rack. To increase strength, we install a wooden wedge between the two racks at the bottom, as shown in the photo below. For fixing, it is best to use long wood screws or metal studs with a diameter of 12 mm.
On the extreme rafters, we install 2 crossbars for structural rigidity, fix them with metal plates and wood screws.
We install a boss at the top of the triangle, between it and the crossbar an upper beam will be installed, on which the entire roof truss structure will be installed. The upper beam performs a supporting function for the rigidity of the entire frame.
If the length of the roof exceeds the length of the beam, then to lengthen it, you can use a retainer from two parts of edged boards 40-50 cm long, which are fixed with metal pins.
On the extreme rafters, we install a second support for structural rigidity, which we fix from below with a metal corner, and from above to the rafters with wood screws.
We install two crossbars from each rafter board along the perimeter of the frame, for fixing we use metal studs.
In the upper part, to fix the connection of the rafters, we use an iron corner and metal studs. This stage is very important for the future rigidity and reliability of the building structure. At the junction of the rafters, if they fall on the carrier beam, then it is necessary to carefully cut each rafter board with a hacksaw, make a notch.
The slope of the roof behind the wall should be at least 50-60 cm away so that snow does not blow there and oblique rain does not fall.
Finished roof structure.
Insulation of a gable mansard roof and waterproofing
In order for the attic to have comfortable living conditions, it must be insulated. Today, various materials, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc. can be used for insulation. Waterproofing is also important, which excludes the collection of condensate, as well as the ingress of moisture into the room in case of roof leaks.
To fix the waterproofing, you can use special brackets or nails, which are fixed to the truss structure in increments of 10-15 cm from the outside and then fastened with bars of the counter-lattice.
Important! The presence of a gap between the roof and the counter-lattice is necessary to prevent the formation of condensate and reduce the heat-shielding properties of the roof.
We turn to thermal insulation using URSA special mineral wool 15 cm thick. The width of the roll is 60 cm, in this case, if the rafter spans are narrower than this distance, then it will be necessary to cut sheets of the desired size across. Roof insulation is an important and responsible process.
