It is hard to imagine without an indispensable attribute - a hot bathhouse, raising vitality with the aromas of birch broom and eucalyptus steam. Bath procedures cure many diseases, relieve stress and provide an opportunity to spiritually communicate with loved ones. So, whatever one may say, one cannot do without it, dear. The topic of our study is a do-it-yourself bath. , a photo, important nuances and the invaluable experience of practitioners - all this is in this material.
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What is the basis for choosing the optimal place for the construction of a bath
Perhaps for someone it will be news that the bath can not be placed anywhere. There are many official and practical principles to follow. Moreover, the wrong choice of location can lead to sad consequences. Let's look at all the rules.
The location of the bath at their summer cottage
In the layout of the location of the bath complex on garden plot there are three main requirements:
| Distance from the boundary of the plot | The distance from the bath complex to - at least three meters. The building should not obscure the territory of the neighboring site. Such a gap will protect the buildings from a possible fire, because the bath is a fire hazardous object. Another important aspect- drainage. A three-meter zone, even if your bath has the most primitive drainage system, will not allow dirty water penetrate into the adjacent area. For reliability, you can lay along the fence filled with gravel. And a couple more significant points: the distance to the neighbors' residential building should be at least eight meters (six - if the bath is brick). When deciding where to build an object, keep in mind that smoke from sauna stove should not reach the windows of a neighbor's house. |
| Distance to the reservoir | On the one hand, the location of the building on the banks of a river or lake is very advantageous. And it is easier to get water, and pleasure is guaranteed after a steam room with a running start to dive into the cool waves. On the other hand, one should strictly follow the rules that keep the reservoir from negative. To do this, the building should be located no closer than 15 meters from the shore. This distance, moreover, will protect the structures from being washed away in the flood. coastline should be strengthened with your own hands with wooden or concrete frames. |
| Gap to residential building | Russian is located on the leeward side of the house at a distance of at least twelve meters. So smoke will not enter the rooms. It is desirable that there are no other flammable structures near the building. Experts recommend keeping a four-meter distance to or barn. |
There are situations when, with the purchase of a summer cottage, a bathhouse gets, as they say, by inheritance. In this case, of course, it is not always possible to move it to a new location in accordance with the above rules. But, with the help of competent reconstruction, fire safety standards can be achieved.
How to attach a bath to the house without damaging the main structure
Not always the size of the site allows you to meet all of the above requirements. There is only one way out - to attach a bath complex directly to the house. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of such a solution:
- land area savings;
- in winter, it is more convenient to use a home bath, since there is no need to go outside;
- you can save a lot on, since one wall will be internal;
- you can use common and .
Advice! When purchasing material, make a small margin. It will come in handy in case of damage to the part.
Step by step construction of a small bath:
- For baths will do columnar, or type of foundation. The base does not require reinforcement. Small wooden bath does not exert a serious load;
- Considering high humidity in bath room, it is necessary to protect the foundation of quality . It is best to use mastic and two layers of roofing material;
- Before laying, the crown should be processed special composition or regular used engine oil. It is important to set the crown in level and prevent distortion;
- We make logs from 50x150 per edge. How to make floors, we will discuss in detail below;
- No need to rack your brains on how to lay a beam if you have profiled material at your disposal. The walls from it are assembled simply, like a children's designer. For additional fastening, dowels made of wood or iron are used. How to build with dowels in the following video story:
- doors and log bath you can simply cut it out after laying and shrinking the walls;
- before the final shrinkage of the walls, a draft roof is installed. A year later, you can make a regular one on the rafters.
Advice! The most environmentally friendly steam room is obtained in a bath of bars. Drawings, dimensions of structures with different layouts can be found in free access in the Internet.
A short video on how to build a bath from a bar:
Related article:
This technology is used to speed up the construction of not too heavy buildings, other architectural structures. In the article you will find step-by-step instructions for the construction of the structure and helpful tips specialists.
Frame bath - cheap and cheerful
You may be surprised, but for a frame bath you will not need any drawings or any expensive projects. Everything is quite simple - we proceed from the sizes standard sheet and we assemble a bathhouse, like a designer, quickly and inexpensively. The foundation will require the simplest, columnar or on piles. Lightweight construction frame technology does not shrink and is assembled in a matter of days.
Pros and cons of such construction:
| Advantages | Flaws |
| Lightweight finished structure | The need for exterior and interior decoration |
| Excellent, in no way inferior to brick and wooden models | Comparative fragility of the design |
| Construction speed exceeds all other construction technologies | |
| Low cost of materials and labor make this design the cheapest | High fire hazard |
| Ease of assembly allows you to independently build such structures |
How to make a quality structure based on? It is necessary to provide a reliable vapor barrier. Humid bath climate and exposure precipitation adversely affect wall material.
Bathhouse insulation is another aspect. It doesn't matter if you are building a 3x4 mini bath or a 6x6 full size bath. Good insulation depends comfortable temperature in all rooms.
For the frame, you can use metal or wood. The first option has practically no drawbacks. It does not dry out, does not deform. Baths with metal frame easy to repair. The only disadvantages of metal structures are the need for detailed diagram and qualified. If the choice is made in favor of wooden frame, make sure that the board and timber are made of larch or linden.
For inner lining use natural lining.
The internal arrangement of frame baths is no different from other options. The only thing worth remembering is that high-quality wiring insulation and protection of the near-furnace space from accidental fire are necessary.
In general, reviews of frame structures are positive. On the network you can find detailed photo reports of home craftsmen about construction. You can find schemes for the construction of baths with dimensions of 2x4, 3x5, 4x6 and more.
Photo and video story on how to build a frame bathhouse:
We build a bath with our own hands: an overview of the stages of construction
The construction of a bathhouse in the country with your own hands begins with a project. Can be used finished project or order individual design in one of the firms specializing in such developments. It is not difficult to prepare a construction scheme on your own, simple country bath has a simple layout.
- Where to start building? Of course, from the construction of the foundation. This is the first stage, which must be approached very responsibly. To build solid construction, you will need to install a foundation that matches the characteristics of the soil. In the old days, wooden baths were placed on large stone boulders.
Guided by the experience of ancestors, bathhouses small size should be installed on an elevation - on a pile or column foundation. Compact panel buildings made of OSB do not need a reinforced base. Another thing is if construction is planned. In this case, you can not do without tape. It, unlike, will cost more and take more time to manufacture. How to properly install a strip reinforced foundation for a bath - in the following video material:
- The next step - . In an ordinary Russian bath, it is preferable to make floors from boards. They are less durable than concrete floors, but you can walk barefoot on such floors, they quickly dry out from moisture and do not heat up to extreme temperatures in the steam room. But the logs should be made of asbestos-cement pipes, this little trick prompted by professional builders. concrete logs do not rot, they are strong and durable.
- The walls in the bath complex can be made of logs, beams, shields. They are , . You can assemble walls from sandwich panels. It all depends on your decision and financial capabilities. It is clear that building a brick sauna from scratch will be more expensive than, for example, a frame structure.
- Roof rafters for the bath complex are easier to assemble on the ground, and then lift and install on the walls.
- The last stage is the installation of equipment for the bath. From the inside, the walls are usually sheathed with birch or linden lining, outside the frame structure can be sheathed or an imitation of a log cabin made of slabs can be made.
This is what it looks like short description main stages of construction. It's time to show each of them in more detail. We offer step-by-step display construction of a bath complex and video instructions on how to build a bath.
Do-it-yourself columnar foundation for a bath: step-by-step instructions and video
Basically, frame bath can be built without, for example, on a substrate of car tires. But keep in mind that after a year or two, the structure may warp. And the lower trim will rot from the effects of flood waters.
The best option is a columnar foundation. It will perfectly withstand the lightweight structure. On it you can build not only a bath, but also home and others.
Advantages and disadvantages of a columnar foundation:
| pros | Minuses |
| It can be built with your own hands, without the involvement of special workers. Foundation installation frame structure does not require special skills. | Not suitable for brick and block buildings |
| Suitable for almost any soil (including heaving) | |
| Compensates for height differences on the site, does not require alignment | |
| Installed in one or two days | Does not provide for the arrangement of the basement or basement |
| Doesn't need | |
| Has a long service life | |
| Does not require capital investment |
According to the depth of installation, the bases differ in:
- buried, installed below the soil freezing mark;
- shallow - from 40 to 70 centimeters deep;
- in drain hole
lined with brick or concrete. The pit is located in close proximity to the structure of the bath and is periodically cleaned using a special machine; The drain system for the bath is laid at the stage of foundation formation
It is necessary to dig a trench for sewer pipes in advance and bring them to the drain from the steam room and washing room. Pipe laying should be carried out with a slope of five degrees. To prevent the drain from freezing, you can insulate it with your own hands using heat-insulating materials.
A step-by-step guide to arranging a sewer well in the following video and photo material:
Another significant point is the arrangement of floors in the steam room and sink. The easiest option is leaking floors. Water simply seeps through the gaps between the boards. Under them there is a sealed receiving plane with a drain hole.
Advice! In non-leaking floors, the drain must have a water seal, otherwise unpleasant odors will spoil the pleasure of bathing procedures.
You can make completely concrete floors, close them.
But it should be noted that it is easy to slip on the tile, and in the steam room the ceramics heat up quickly, so you can’t enter it barefoot.
It remains to solve the issue of water supply. In a separate building, it is better to conduct water supply underground, in a protected housing. If your area has severe winters, it is worth considering heating the water supply to prevent emergencies. How to install such a system, photo reports will tell you, which are not difficult to find on the net.
Article
Advice! For light construction you can use not concrete pipes, but plastic, or wooden poles treated with resin to protect against decay.
Detailed video material on how to build a foundation for a 4x4 bath with your own hands
Bath with a shower in the country: how to bring and drain water
Sophisticated drainage system important point in the design of the bath complex. Proper draining in the bath will not only protect the base of the building from mold and rot, but also save you from problems with neighbors in the area.
Where can you take the sewer:
What could be more pleasant, after a long day of work in the garden, to visit a steam room with a fragrant fresh broom? Immediately relieve fatigue and back pain will subside! But not everyone knows how to build a bathhouse on a garden plot with their own hands, economically and in compliance with the rules. We will teach our readers to assemble an inexpensive, but quality bath with all technologies.
Bath on the garden plot should be not only practical, but also beautiful.
For the garden plot choose a small bath of inexpensive material. You can assemble a structure from a bar or frame, so you do not have to carry out a massive foundation. The main thing is that the bath on the garden plot meets a number of requirements:
- includes a steam room for 2-3 people, a dressing room, a small place to relax and a dressing room;
- a wood-burning stove, since not every site has electricity, and firewood is always available;
- the firebox can go into the dressing room, so the room will warm up without extra costs;
- the steam room and water should warm up quickly;
- can be used not only in summer, but also in cool times in spring or autumn;
- located at a remote distance from the house and not closer than 1 m to neighboring plots and plantings;
- minimum costs on materials and finishes, according to the principle “we sculpt from improvised materials”;
- all work can be done by hand.
To comply with all the rules, you need to make a plan. You can use the standard one, which can be taken on any commercial site. But it's better to cook individual project, especially since it will not be necessary to approve it in the architectural companies of the city. It is good to choose projects with a small veranda. In winter, the veranda can be used as a tool, and in summer it will serve as a recreation area. Placed on the veranda comfortable benches, table.
The project of a small cottage for a garden plot. If the bath will be used as an additional room, for example, a guest room, then projects with an attic are chosen. In early spring you can accommodate yourself in the attic, you do not have to heat the garden house.
How to economically select materials?
You can buy everything new for construction, but it will be more economical to use improvised materials: old window frames, doors, everything will go. You can make a good water heater from an old boiler, cook a stove from KAMAZ disks. Wood can be taken in the forest, old dead wood. But initially it is necessary to take permission from the local forestry, the issue price is from 50 rubles / m3. Agree cheap.
Another plus is that the dead wood will not shrink as much as wood. chamber drying. Felling is carried out on straight trees with less rot damage. The lower part is sawn off, as the tree starts to rot from the root. The length of the log is taken from 2.5 m, with a section of 18–25 cm. The bark and knots are removed from the logs, and skinned. Carry it out of the woods larger diameter, like living wood will be difficult.
Bath house assembled in the country with their own hands from dead wood. For work you will need the following tools:
- chainsaw, for example, Makita;
- electric planer, the speed of working with a log depends on its quality;
- grinder with nozzles for metal and stone, for the foundation and furnace;
- axe;
- improvised tool (screwdriver, screwdriver, pliers, etc.).
If you decide to buy a new one construction material choose the most inexpensive, for example, simple edged timber natural humidity, round timber or foam blocks. Linden lining is used as a finish, the price of which starts from 120 rubles.
For the roof, they purchase inexpensive roofing material, slate or ondulin. Issue price from 70 rubles.
Mineral wool, ecowool are purchased as a heater. but you can collect and dry moss from the forest. So you save at least 15,000 rubles.
After the purchase of materials, you can begin construction.
The main stages of the construction of a bath on a garden plot
All construction takes place in several stages:
- Foundation installation.
- Wall assembly.
- Roof, floor and ceiling.
- Insulation and vapor barrier.
- Finishing external and internal.
- Accomplishment.
Let's consider each stage in more detail.
Installation of the foundation on the garden plot
To build a foundation, you need to purchase material. It will depend on the choice of foundation. Most inexpensive option fill the columns or perform a tape not recessed.
The foundation for a bath is easier and cheaper to do with your own hands. Work is carried out in next order:
- For the columns and the tape base, markings are made and removed upper layer soil.
- Drilling wells or digging a trench. The depth should not be less than the freezing of the soil. A sand cushion is laid at the bottom of the trench and carefully rammed. Then a layer of gravel is poured. A rebar frame is simply inserted into the wells.
- For the tape, formwork is made to a basement height of at least 20 cm.
- In the formwork, strapping is made of reinforcement and binding wire.
- Concrete is being poured. It is important to fill in one step, since the base must be monolithic.
- On hot days, the foundation is shed with water 2-3 times a day for a week, until fully ripe. After a week, the foundation is opened and allowed to dry completely. Without watering, the base will dry out unevenly and may crack.
- Remove formwork.
- Columns in loose soil can be overlaid with roofing material before pouring. Reinforcement is left on top for further strapping.
At the stage of installation of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of the drainage system and the foundation cushion under the stove. For iron oven there is no need to make a massive base, since the structure is 3-4 times lighter than a brick one.
After drying, the foundation must be waterproofed from above with roofing material in 2 layers.
Assembling the walls of the log house
The walls begin to be assembled from the bottom strapping. It is made of moisture resistant wood, such as aspen or larch. A log or beam is taken with a larger section and laid on the foundation. From below it is necessary to lay thin sticks in two rows, they will ensure uniform shrinkage of the walls.
The log house is assembled on a ready-made and waterproofed foundation. You can assemble the box with a release or in a closed corner. Gusset with the release “into the bowl” it is considered warmer, but it is easier to collect it “in the paw” with your own hands. Between themselves, the timber or logs must be fastened with wooden dowels. They can be made independently or any type of wood.
Moss or flax insulation is laid between each log or beam. When laying logs, pay attention to cracks, they are hidden inside the masonry. Compensating cuts are made in the timber before laying to reduce cracking.
Laying is carried out to the top log according to the plan. Door and window openings can not be cut immediately.
It is important to treat any lumber with an antiseptic composition, for example, Senezh, before laying any lumber. Do not use old machine oil or a mixture of blue vitriol, at high temperatures they will release toxic fumes.
When the box is assembled, proceed to the roof truss system.
Assembling the truss system of the bath
The roof for a bath in a garden plot is chosen of the simplest design, single-pitched or gable.
Simple gable roof perfect for a bath. The shed is laid on the Mauerlat, on the one hand, on the other hand, it can be laid directly on the upper log. The gable is collected on the ground and lifted up separate elements.
Roofing material is used as a roof for a bath in a garden plot. If the log house was assembled from wood of natural moisture, then we do not recommend immediately laying slate or ondulin. The building is left to shrink for 1 year. It is necessary that the bath stand for all seasons with a rough roof, only after that they lay a fine one and proceed to install windows and doors.
Windows and doors
AT small bath there is no need to make many windows and doors. It is enough to install a window in the dressing room, for ventilation and doors to the steam room and to the entrance. Fire safety doors must open from the inside.
Before installing windows and doors to the bathhouse, a pigtail is made from a 40x20 mm timber in the garden. The pigtail is mounted to prevent distortions and jamming of windows and doors in any wooden structure.
Finishing the bath in the garden
After shrinkage, the log house must be caulked. Dried forest moss is used as an economy. Caulking is performed around the entire perimeter of the log house, punching each log from two sides. It is necessary to caulk the bath starting from the bottom, rising along the entire structure. If you first caulk one wall, then the second, then the bath will warp.
Inside the bath is hydro and vapor barrier with foil insulation. The material is laid end-to-end, gluing the seams with metal tape. A crate is made on top, on which lining or lindens are sewn.
Inside, the bath is trimmed with clapboard and a canopy is mounted. The canopy and benches for a bath in the garden can be made with your own hands from boards. From above, the structure is sheathed with the same clapboard. For convenience, hangers and a mirror are hung.
The stove is thermally insulated, the chimney outlet is laid with asbestos. Water can be drawn from a homemade well or a well can be improved next to the bath.
Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the garden plot is assembled quickly. But it will take free time and diligence. If there is neither the first nor the second, then it is better to use the services of professionals who will assemble a small steam room in a matter of days. And what can be a bath manual felling in the garden, look at the video:
A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do a garden or landscaping, and then relax, having a steam bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. You'll have to work hard, but it's worth it.
In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:
- choose the right project;
- get acquainted with the stages of construction;
- purchase building materials;
- build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
- finish the interior and only then bathe.
If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bath in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.
Choosing a place for the construction of a bath
Often summer cottages do not differ in large sizes, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are norms that must be followed. Let's look at preferences first.
- It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of draining the water.
- It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
- The rays of the setting sun penetrating the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window country house. So you can watch the bathhouse being heated and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
- The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.
In order not to arise conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97 must be observed. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only those numbers that you need in order to choose optimal location for a bath.
Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, the distances indicated in the table must be adhered to:
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The material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made |
The distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building |
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The same buildings using wooden elements |
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Wooden and similar buildings |
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As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.
It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - from garden house shower, bath and sauna must be at least 8 m away.
By the way, failure to comply with these rules can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bathhouse to another place.
Bath project
When choosing a bath project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:
- Frame bath.
- Wooden bath (from timber or rounded logs).
- Bath made of brick, stone or blocks.
- Arbolite building.
Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.
Material selection
So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.
- Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame buildings, as they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a design, the foundation also does not have to be spent much.
- The most favorite buildings are wooden. The cost of such a building will be somewhat higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need to be insulated.
- Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bath in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be warmed up for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls turn out to be warm, but it is important to consider that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
- Arbolit is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.
Wall materials
Since our article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.
frame structure
The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:
- Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
- Insulating material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here it should be borne in mind that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
- Material for sheathing the frame outside and inside. Most often for outer skin buildings use OSB boards, edged board, siding or block house, while lining is used from the inside.
wooden bath
For the construction of walls can be used:
- Natural debarked tree.
- Cut beam.
- Profiled bar.
- Glued beam.
- Round log.
Bath made of brick, stone or blocks
The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:
- Brick (ceramic or silicate).
- Stone (quarrystone, limestone, shell rock).
- Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).
Arbolite building
If it is possible to purchase sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks enough High Quality. Also, this building material in the form of finished blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the ability to manufacture monolithic walls by pouring cement-shaving mortar into the formwork.
Materials for the ceiling in the bath
The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, therefore, it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.
For sheathing the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining because it can withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products should not be used in this room, when heated, resin begins to stand out from this wood. It is also impossible to hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of fumes that can harm human health.
Materials for insulation and vapor barrier
It is advisable to perform external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will do such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.
The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is laid inside the structure. AT wooden bath you need to make a crate into which the insulation is inserted. Other types of baths need insulation made using more complex technology.
To get the job done you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.
As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that this is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while waterproofing, used for other purposes, can nullify all the work.
What you especially need to pay attention to is not to get a fake.
Decoration Materials
Since we are talking about a bath in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option there will be the use of wood: lining or similar facing materials.
As for the exterior, it can be any material that is used for sheathing houses. If the bath is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the beautiful facade something else.
Bath construction
Now we will consider how the construction of a bathhouse in the country with our own hands can be done. It is clear that the work will be easier to do with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some instructions can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.
But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work cannot be done alone. As you read this article, you'll see when and how many helpers may be needed - this will help you plan everything.
markup
So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let's start marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale specified in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.
Now, when there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners turned out. To do this, it is necessary to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct them again.
If the foundation is tape, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the marking must be very accurately done.
So we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.
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Foundation type |
Where is it applied and how is markup performed |
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This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be dispensed with. Marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary that the foundation be wider and longer than the bath. |
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Tape
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A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the tape filled with concrete passes along the perimeter of the building and under the walls. |
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Columnar
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This type of foundation is also often found. Mainly used mounting on it wooden buildings. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of manufactured supports. |
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Screw
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It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military has long begun to use it. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and ease of installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to excavation so the area stays clean. In addition, it can be used to build a bath even on a site with a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed. |
Weigh all the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.
Foundation pouring
Production of shallow strip foundation acceptable under the following conditions:
- The soil in the area is dry and loose.
- The groundwater level is quite low.
- In winter, frosts are not very strong.
- The buildings are not heavy.
Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.
Let's start with a simpler and most commonly used shallow foundation for a bath.
- We have external markings, now we need to make internal ones, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude 5–10 cm from each side of the building. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
- It is important to take into account the installation location of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
- For convenience, in the corners you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.
- It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as a backfill.
- As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to dig to a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50–60 cm.
- The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontal level.
- Now it's time for the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand into the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and compact well. To do this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrotamper, but it can also be done manually, using a heavy bar with handles nailed to it.
- The next layer is poured with crushed stone of the middle fraction and also carefully rammed.
- Now it's the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from improvised materials or wood harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after pouring the foundation. Finished shields must be installed along the trench and well fixed, otherwise the poured concrete may move them.
- In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside plastic wrap to be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
- Now you need to make a frame of metal or plastic fittings, fastened with knitting wire.
- The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
- If any communications pass through the foundation, then holes must be left for them, which will help the sleeves, as is done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
- Plan your time in such a way as to pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that M400 cement will need 1 bucket, sand - 3, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
- The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or bayoneted. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a basis is made for wooden house, then in non-cured concrete it is necessary to fix the foundation bolts.
- Not earlier than a week later, you can remove the formwork.
It should be remembered that concrete has not yet gained full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.
Video: building a foundation for a bath
Wall masonry
When building a bath from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar, and lay a roofing material folded in half on it. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane, and only after that a twine is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a number of building materials.
When laying the next row masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is being built on a cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.
Having installed the jumpers above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the manufacture of the roof.
The construction of the frame of the bath
The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and observe the sequence of their installation.
For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.
On the foundation, a frame of the lower trim is made from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If bars 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and dimensions of the bath.
- At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it right next to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
- FROM opposite side the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
- The logs must be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
- The wall frame is assembled from a 50 × 100 mm beam, and then installed in its place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.
To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, you need to use vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as a heat-insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing the natural air exchange.
It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.
Floor
If in the frame bath it remains only to insulate the floor and lay floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it. They fit on it wooden shields, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and calmly go home.
It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only acceptable wooden floor with insulation. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.
Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and provide a drain in the bath
roof construction
Above any bath should be reliable roof, but the options for its creation may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely enter the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, formed on roofing material condensate will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.
The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since it is necessary to take into account technical specifications buildings.
- So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
- If the cottage is located in the steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
- With small bath sizes and insignificant snow load the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.
Video: how to make a bath roof
Interior and exterior decoration
Although for interior decoration wood is most often used, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to finish this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.
As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.
Finishing wood and brick bath clapboard is performed almost the same way. First, a crate is attached to the wall, and a lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the crate.
Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it. To finish the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:
- Imitation of a bar.
- Siding.
- Clapboard.
- Block house.
- Facade tiles.
- Dye.
You have to choose suitable material and decorate the façade.
Ventilation in the bath
Sometimes there is an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is completely absent. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room at the top it is very hot, and the legs are cold.
In fact, while taking bath procedures, the air in the room should be updated 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to quickly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.
Such a device allows you to keep warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the top vent (A) opens.
In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat in vain, you can make it so that it is possible to close ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.
Furniture
Canopy and all furniture for country bath can be made by yourself. If there is no desire to make something else, then the network has many offers for the sale of everything you need to give.
With a strong desire to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but does not get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.
Scheme
Photo: original baths
- This is a difficult, but quite feasible undertaking. First of all, the owner must choose the right material for the construction of the bath.
Choosing a place to build a bath
Start with a choice suitable place for the location of the building. The following recommendations will help you with this:
Before starting any construction activities, prepare a bath project.
Determine optimal size structures. One vacationer should have at least 5 m2 of total area the buildings. For example, if you are building a bathhouse for 4 people, its area must be at least 20 m2.
The standard bath consists of a steam room, a washing department, a dressing room and a rest room. Set the dimensions and features of the spatial placement of the listed premises that are convenient for you.
Prepare the following drawings:
You can make all these drawings yourself or find them in an open source. In general, the projects of log baths remain almost the same. If you have the desire and sufficient budget, order the preparation of drawings by a professional.
Materials for building a bath
To build a bath from a bar you will need a whole set various materials and accessories, namely:
- beam. Traditionally, a material with a section of 150x150 mm is used;
- floor boards. The best option is a four-meter edged board 15x5 cm;
- ceiling boards. Usually used lining with a width of 10 cm and a thickness of 2 cm;
- materials for interior decoration. Lining is perfect;
- vapor barrier material. The best option is modern vapor barrier films;
- waterproofing material. If possible, use penofol. Polyethylene film is also suitable;
- ceiling heater. Mineral wool materials are well suited;
- sheet asbestos. It helps you isolate wooden elements buildings from high temperature. Insulation sheets must be fixed to the walls near the sauna stove. Also, wooden elements installed in close proximity to the chimney need insulation;
- bulk materials for arrangement. The set is standard: cement, sand and gravel;
- material for finishing the roof. Focus on your preferences. The main thing is that the roof of the bath looks good surrounded by the roofs of other buildings on the site;
- insulation for interventional space. Use jute. Tow and moss are also suitable.
It is best to start building a bath in the spring, because. after the completion of the main activities, the wood will need to be left for a six-month "wintering". During this time, the material will dry and give the required shrinkage.
Buy cement immediately before construction begins.
Bath construction guide
The work is carried out in stages - from preparation construction site before equipping the bath with various accessories.
First stage - Site preparation
Clear construction site from all sorts of debris, shrubs, large roots, and in general everything that can interfere with the construction of the foundation.
The second stage - Pouring the foundation
Attach the batten boards to the rafters. Lay hydro, heat and vapor barrier materials, the insulation of the bath is one of the most important elements of its construction, the quality of the built bath will directly depend on this. Install your chosen roof finish.
Prices for various types of timber
Fourth stage - Interior fittings
Start by arranging the necessary communications.
You should take care of the installation even at the stage of creating the foundation. To do this, create a pit outside the bathhouse either drainage well, connected to the bath by a pipe laid with a slope.
After completing the arrangement of the sewer, make the floor. It can be concrete or wood. Concrete floors are usually tiled. This coating is more durable.
The wooden floor is traditionally made leaky. The technology is extremely simple: logs are installed, floor boards are nailed to them with some clearance. You can also create a small hatch for drains and close it with a perforated grate. Gender in this case should be done with some bias. As a result, moisture from the floor will enter the hatch, and from there it will be discharged through a pipe into a drainage well or pit.
In order for the wood to last as long as possible, carefully ventilate the bath after each visit.
Insulate the ceiling and walls of the building using suitable moisture, heat and vapor barrier materials. Install doors and windows. Connect plumbing and electricity to the bath. Install the necessary electrical appliances.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Fifth stage - Furnace and shelves
Choose the design of the shelves at your discretion. They are built in the same order: first, a support frame is mounted from a strong beam, after which boards are nailed to the supports.
The oven is also up to you. You can lay out a traditional one, install a convenient metal unit or a modern electric heater.
Heavy furnaces require the mandatory arrangement of an individual foundation. At this point, everything is also defined in separately taking into account the characteristics of a particular furnace.
Prices for various types of stones for furnaces
Stones for stoves
Step Six - Optional Accessories
In conclusion, you will only have to supplement your country bath with various kinds of accessories, namely:
- brooms;
- wooden mug for adding water;
- buckets;
- various kinds of wooden gratings, etc.
The internal arrangement of the additional premises of the bath is at your discretion.
Successful work!
Prices for bath and sauna accessories
Bath and sauna accessories
Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country
Hello! I'll tell you how I built a bath in the country. Built one. Sometimes only (when installing heavy or long parts) he asked someone to help (when installing a log house and rafters).
Well, I'll start in order. To begin with, we determine on the site where the bath will be. We mark the place of the future foundation and start digging.
Digging under the foundation.
Since our site is located on quicksand, the foundation was made more powerful. At the collection point of black scrap metal, I bought pieces of rebar. He welded a frame out of them and laid them on bricks so that the metal did not touch the ground.
Next, we make the formwork so that the foundation protrudes above the surface. For formwork, I used chipboard from old cabinets. I set it up with smooth edges and set it to the level around the entire perimeter. This is necessary so that later the brick does not display the level. We lay a sewer pipe for draining water.
Next, pour concrete. You can bring ready-made concrete with a mixer (this is if there are ways to drive the mixer). In my case, there was no possibility of a mixer entrance. I ordered 1 Kamaz OPGS (Enriched Sand and gravel). They dumped it on the site (by the way, my plot is small, only 4 acres). And the hardest part began. From one end of the site to the bath on a construction wheelbarrow I carry 3 buckets of OPGS + 1 bucket of cement. I add water on the spot and mix it in the same wheelbarrow with a shovel, ready mix filled and leveled. Since I did all this alone, it took me 2 days. At that time, I thought it was pointless to buy a concrete mixer, but then it turned out to be better if I bought it, because then I filled in the paths and other little things. In short, if there is such an idea, buy a stirrer, it costs 7-8 thousand. For one and for the stove we fill in the foundation.
We are waiting for the poured foundation to grab and get stronger and begin to lay out the red brick base. Between the foundation and the brick, I put a layer of waterproofing on it 2 rows of bricks. When laying bricks, he left 50 mm sewer pipes for ventilation and one polypropylene pipe for cold water supply.
We bring a log house and lay out all the logs in order so that later we don’t have to look for the right ones.
Already on the finished brick base, I put 2 layers waterproofing material"TechnoNIKOL" and began to collect the log house. I sanded each log with a grinder with a sanding nozzle. Jute was used to seal the joints. Waiting, he nailed it with a stapler and, when installing the log, threw it in order to crush the jute. The frame is assembled. I immediately treated the exterior with an impregnation against bugs and weathering.
The frame is assembled.
Rafters and lathing.
Gables.
Dressing room.
Entrance door.
Ceiling board 40mm. I glued it with foil and sheathed it with aspen clapboard, insulated it with ecowool on top.
Shelf frame.
The stove is fenced off.
The floors in the dressing room were varnished for yachts.
Well, here's what happened in the end.
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