How to process trees in early spring. How to treat the garden from diseases and pests in the spring. What fungicides are best for treating trees

Spraying the garden in the spring is an important agrotechnical event, and everyone knows this. Sometimes site owners approach spraying the garden in the spring formally, without thinking too much about the essence of this agronomic procedure. Then the annual spraying of the garden in the spring runs the risk of becoming "senseless and merciless", even dangerous.

Our desire to put a barrier to pests and plant diseases is quite understandable. In the weather in the Middle lane, fruit and berry crops are regularly threatened by at least 70 types of insect pests and about 20 varieties of infectious diseases. Humanity has ways to suppress as many of them as possible, but then the environment and food will become dangerously poisonous for humans as well. Finding balance is the main task of spring events.

Refusal of processing

It must be admitted that the absence of global preventive irrigation is by no means the worst option. Definitely it is more reasonable than any excess.

It is permissible to relax a little if the summer cottage is quite young and has not yet accumulated a large mass of harmful organisms.
It is necessary to plant unpretentious, resistant varieties in the garden (there are problem-free roses, scab-free apple trees, blackcurrants without mites and red-gall aphids, gooseberries without a sphere library, strawberries with almost no gray rot, etc.) and in the best place.
Regular agrotechnical measures are needed (thinning, pruning, digging, deoxidation, fertilization, mulching, traps, etc.).
It is useful to apply spraying with biological preparations and stimulants from spring to autumn: immunomodulators Epin Extra, Zircon, Gumi; biopesticides Strobi and Fitoverm, microbiological agents such as Fitosporin. All of them act on already vegetative plants.

Even the most ardent supporters of organic farming are ready to give up if a significant part of the crop regularly dies in the garden. The way out is to seek a compromise: minimal harm with maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of pests and diseases, not forgetting about the environment.

Everything at once

"Give me something to spray everything and everything in the garden at once in the spring" echoes before the start of the season in garden shops. Even a simple and logical question from a reasonable seller: "Are you from diseases or from pests?" - able to lead the buyer into a stupor. Of course, a nimble seller will hand over some treasured product, to the delight of the buyer. As a rule, there are two results, and both are disappointing:

1. There is almost no effect from spraying.

2. The garden accumulates poisons.

Spring is a flexible concept

"Wide is my native country," and in garden recommendations one has to separate the seasons of the calendar and natural seasons. For agrotechnical measures, two natural indicators are important (dates differ by a month or more in different regions) - air temperature and stages of plant development in the spring garden:

Before the kidneys swelled
"green cone" - the very beginning of the extension of the leaves,
budding,
bloom,
young ovaries.

The concept of "spring spraying" is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the spring and summer periods. However, two stages can be clearly distinguished: processing before the swelling of the kidneys and after this event (when the leaves and buds are advanced).

When, how and how to treat the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest term is the phase of dormant buds

We carry out the first spraying in the spring when low positive temperatures occur in the garden (+4 +6 degrees or slightly higher), but always before the buds swell, for dormant plants. Everywhere there is a different height and speed of melting of the snow cover, and cultures wake up at different times, so it is not always possible to meet one specific day. Black currants and awaken very early, but a bed of strawberries, covered roses and grapes can be under snow for a long time (especially on the northern slope).

Exceptions for plants

What horticultural crops can not be sprayed at all during this period

Honeysuckle practically does not get sick and extremely rarely suffers from pests - if this is your good case, then we bypass it for now.
This may also apply to blackberries (especially late ripening ones).
If modern blackcurrant varieties are planted in your garden that are not damaged by powdery mildew and bud mites, then there is no point in spraying in early spring either. You still can’t get the glass inside the shoots, and the aphids are still in deep sleep (we will defeat it later with a biological product like Fitoverm).
Do not need to be sprayed with fungicides and gooseberry varieties that are hardy to the sphere library.
In many gardens, sea buckthorn does not get sick.
In the case when your pears do not show serious problems from year to year, it is also permissible to put them alone.
If there were previously prosperous years, there will be no need for disease protection for apple varieties that are immune to scab and hardy to moniliosis (fruit rot).
Finally, the vines often do not need any treatment in the northern viticulture zone.
For ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers, a thoughtful individual approach is needed.

This is a very important point - to determine the range of problem-free plants that do not require excessive care: for us - saving time, effort, money, and most importantly - the benefit of the environment. Chemical protection of the garden is carried out not all the time and not "just in case", but at real risk.

Scope

Before the buds swell, berries and fruit trees (strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, cherries, cherry plums, quince, peach, apricots, grapes), a rose garden, and flower beds need to be sprayed. At this time, the impact is more focused on diseases and only partially on pests, many of which are still dormant.

What to spray, optimal processing methods

Hot water

Bringing a bucket of water to a boil, immediately pour it into a watering can and water the bushes of any color of currants and gooseberries (sometimes they also capture raspberries and blackberries) - only over the sleeping bushes. It is believed that this partially destroys wintering forms of pests and diseases. With water with a temperature of strictly +65 degrees, we pour bushes of garden strawberries from a watering can immediately after the snow melts - from a strawberry microscopic mite and a nematode.

"Blue spray" - Bordeaux liquid

This is an ancient, invented a century and a half ago, but still the most useful measure against almost all fungal and bacterial infections on all crops and on the soil surface. It is carried out with such a tool as strong Bordeaux liquid - at a concentration of about 3% (and not 1%, as in green foliage). In the instructions for the drug, sometimes there is a discrepancy in the ratio of lime and copper sulfate in solution. This confusion is due to the fact that quicklime was used in the original recipe, and now slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) is most often taken, and more is required. When a store-bought Bordeaux mixture is purchased, it is better to act clearly according to the instructions. If it deals only with the preparation of a 1% solution, then for a 3% solution we simply reduce the amount of water by a factor of three. With independent purchase of ingredients for 3 liters of water, we take 100 grams of copper sulfate and slaked lime (or about 150-200 quicklime).

The alternative is Burgundy liquid. We cook in the same way as Bordeaux, but instead of lime we use soda (calcined or food); sometimes we also add a spoonful of soap or sugar to better stick to the branches. There is an option where we replace part of the soda with mustard powder and ammonia; let the mixture boil with the passage of a chemical reaction, and then immediately carry out the processing.

Drug 30+

The official manufacturer is only NPF Sober. This is an emulsion of vaseline oil, originally used in the spring to combat the scale insect (the most dangerous fruit pest) in the Krasnodar Territory. It turned out that the remedy is practically harmless to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects wintering on the branches of bushes and trees. From spraying in early spring, not only scale insects die, but also other insects wintering in crowns, even eggs and larvae. We stir a liter of the product in two buckets of water and spray the garden, spending a liter or two per bush and up to five liters per large tree. The substance is dangerous for bees. A similar product, Prophylactin, also contains a similar oil, but plus liquid karbofos (malathion), which is highly poisonous and useless at this time.

More spring spraying options

In early spring, a strong solution of urea (600 grams per bucket) is also used, sometimes with the addition of copper sulfate (50 grams).

Iron sulfate is also used for spraying, especially in the fight against lichen and moss, as well as against various diseases on grapes, roses, and fruit trees. A kilogram of iron sulfate is dissolved in twenty liters of water (for stone fruits such as cherries, the concentration is weaker, 600 grams per two buckets).

Both products are considered very burning, and experienced gardeners recommend using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, spraying them in the spring can delay bud break in the garden for a week.

Not an option

Agronomists do not advise resorting to folk remedies such as salt, diesel fuel, kerosene.

I would especially like to say about Nitrofen. The drug has long been recognized as the most dangerous carcinogen and banned in many countries, including Russia!!! You will not find it on sale (and you don’t need to).

Spraying at the stage of bud break ("green cone") and nomination of buds

At this time, all sorts of harmful organisms begin to wake up - both microscopic and those that are larger. A cool rainy spring ensures the early development of diseases, and sunny weather will please all insects.

Treatment for diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper

It is not too late to use Bordeaux liquid for continuous processing - only at a concentration of 1%. Flowers, grapes, apple-pears, cherries-plums, flowers in spring are also treated with HOM, Abiga-Peak is also used.

Biologicals

It is during this period that adherents of ecological farming carry out the first two treatments with such means as Fitosporin (everything in a row), Alirin (strawberries from gray rot, fruit trees), Fitolavin (apple trees from fruit rot).

This group includes the drug Strobi. It is a naturally occurring fungicide. It is used on apple and pear at the very beginning of its vegetation.

Prognoz (and other drugs with propiconazole)

Goods of identical composition: Forecast, Agrolekar, Chistoflor, Propi Plus. These are modern fungicides that are considered not too toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: strawberries (from gray rot), raspberries, gooseberries, currants.

Pureflower (and other products with difenoconazole)

Pureflower, Rayok, Skor, Diskor, Guardian, Plantenol represent the same contents. They are used on pome and stone fruits and berries, as well as on beautiful shrubs, roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole)

In the spring - this is the prevention of rust and powdery mildew on flowers, currants, gooseberries.

Thiovit Jet

This is sulfur - against powdery mildew on currants, apple trees, roses.

Horus

Designed for grapes, all pome and stone fruit crops. It is considered not too dangerous for bees, birds and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: there are no aphids, no caterpillars, no spider mites in the garden yet. It makes sense to use poison if last year there was a dominance of pests (weevil, raspberry beetle, sea buckthorn fly, codling moths, leafworms, etc.). You can not spray at the time of flowering - you need either before this joyful event, or immediately after, strictly according to the instructions.

Poisons-pyrethroids

This is, Spark Double effect, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion)

These are Karbofos, Fufanon, Iskra M.

Double poisons

This is Alatar, Inta-CM.

Copper preparations are recommended to be used separately. The rest of the fungicides can be mixed with pesticides, after checking whether this causes a violent chemical reaction. Studies show that the addition of a stimulant such as Epin Extra allows you to reduce the dosage of chemicals by one and a half to two times while maintaining effectiveness.

Spring comes, and simultaneously with the awakening of plants, all kinds of insect pests and pathogens wake up. Therefore, the processing of the garden in the spring from diseases and pests is one of the most important spring activities for the care of the orchard - fruit trees and berry bushes.

When to process the garden from diseases and pests in the spring: schedule (terms) of work

At different times, different diseases and pests appear, respectively, for each phase of plant development - its own specific processing.

It is very important not to be late and to be on time.

However! Don't be in too much of a hurry. If there is still snow outside the window, or the weather is unstable: it often rains, sleet, fog, then processing at this time will simply be ineffective.

Thus, when stable warm (+4..+5 degrees during the day and preferably not lower than 0 at night, -1..-2 is possible) and dry weather, you can spend.

By the way! Insect pests begin to wake up and crawl out of their shelters just at a temperature of about +4..+5 degrees.

Obviously, it is very difficult to name specific dates, where easier to navigate the development phases of your plants.

So, as a rule, garden treatments in the spring are carried out in the following stages of plant development:

Before the buds open, when they are still completely closed (sleeping);

Such processing is also called "" or "on a bare tree", in other words, the plant has not yet shown any signs of awakening (vegetation).

Note! Instead of treating dormant buds, some gardeners spray on those that have already, so to speak, begun to wake up, i.e. during their swelling (at the very beginning).

"Green Cone" When the buds have already burst, but the leaves have not yet appeared (turned around).
"By rose buds".

Interesting! Sometimes the treatment is carried out just before flowering, when the buds are ready to “just about” open up, or even during the period of direct flowering (but only against diseases).

"On the ovaries with a pea" (after flowering).

Note! If it seems to you that it is unrealistic to carry out such a number of treatments, then this is not at all the case, even if you are in the country only on weekends (1-2 days a week). Each stage lasts by no means one day. In addition, you can track all the stages on the city trees.

Video: types of spring spraying - 4 phases of treatment

Before bud break or early spring spraying

The first treatment can be carried out even before the buds open, when they (the buds) are still completely closed (are in a dormant state).

The snow has already melted and melted, the temperature is positive - +4..+5 degrees during the day, at night it is above or near 0 (zero).

Moreover, the first spraying, as a rule, is carried out both from diseases and from the wintering stages of insect pests.

Along the green cone

Spraying in the "green cone" phase is considered the most important and most favorable period for treating the garden from diseases and pests.

This phase is characterized by the fact that the buds on the trees have already burst, but the leaves have not yet unfolded, although they are already clearly visible (hence the “green cone”).

Important! If for some reason you did not process at the previous stage, then it is better to hurry up, since the duration of this phase (“green cone”) is relatively short. Moreover, if there is good sunny weather, a stable temperature above +10 degrees, then the kidneys will open quickly enough.

At this stage, usually use more serious drugs such as Horus (anti-disease fungicide), Decis Profi (insecticide), which can be mixed (tank mix).

However, if you skipped the previous treatment, now you can still spray with either one of the special solutions based on or with.

Specificity! For example, Horus works great at low positive temperatures (about +4..+5), while Skor, on the contrary, works better at higher temperatures (above +15). Therefore, before flowering (for example, in the "green cone" phase), it is possible to spray with Horus, and with Skorom - already at the "rose bud" stage and after flowering ("pea-sized ovaries").

At the same stage, for additional protection of trees from pests, trunks can be put on trapping belts, build and hang on trees glue traps, pheromone houses.

Interesting! It is at this phase that the apple flower beetle (weevil) begins its activity.

In the fight against him, you can use physical methods of struggle: simply shake off the bugs. Moreover, this should be done early in the morning, when it is still cold, at which time they are still “sleeping”. Take a long stick and gently slap the wood, shaking off the beetles on a pre-layed film.

Video: second spring spraying of the garden

Bud (flower bud) or "rose bud" stage

The third treatment should be carried out at the stage when the bud has formed and advanced (it is already pink), but has not yet opened.

Spraying at the "rosebud" stage is also carried out against pests and against diseases.

Interesting! At this stage, the apple codling moth begins its activity (laying eggs).

Naturally, at this stage, no one treats with any Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulphate, but continues (or just begins) to use serious preparations such as Horus or Skora, Decis Profi, Kinmiks, Karate Zeon.

By the way! Temperature conditions at the “rose bud” stage, as a rule, improve, the weather is warm and sunny (temperature + 10-15 degrees and above), which means that you can start using biological preparations such as Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide and others.

By ovaries with a pea (after flowering)

Immediately after flowering, when pea-sized ovaries are formed, it is necessary to carry out treatment for diseases(especially against moniliosis in stone fruits, however, as in pome fruits) and against pests(for example, against the codling moth).

Preparations (fungicides and insecticides) are used similar (as in the previous stage), including the active use of biological preparations.

Advice! You can fight the apple codling moth with the help of compote bait (of course, apple). Cooked compote (from fresh apples or dried fruits, the main thing is that the smell is “apple”) you pour into buckets and hang on tree branches. Alternatively, you can simply add some apple cider vinegar to the water.

How to properly spray your garden in spring

When preparing solutions and spraying plants, observe safety precautions. If the packaging says that you need to wear special clothing (robe, overalls, raincoat), goggles and a respirator, rubber gloves, then you need to wear it.
Processing should be carried out only in dry and calm weather.

In sunny weather, it is better to refrain from spraying, because, quickly drying out, the preparations become ineffective or do not work at all. Spraying is best done in cloudy, calm weather, but not in the rain: after the rain, the branches are wet, as if a thin “film” of water is on them. And spraying is droplets of the solution, which in the same way cover the plant with a thin “film” of drops. If processing is carried out, the concentration of the solution will decrease, and the processing efficiency will decrease.

Spraying is preferably carried out early in the morning (after the dew has dried) or late in the evening (after sunset).
Processing is always carried out precisely after spring pruning, in order to further protect the cut points (ideally, if you sprinkle with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid, in other words, if there is copper in the fungicide).

Do not spray during the flowering period (bees and other pollinators can be harmed).

Important! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

All prepared solutions should be passed through a filter mesh so as not to clog the sprayer.

Water at room temperature is suitable for dissolving almost all drugs (for vitriol, it is advisable to use hot water, about + 40-50 degrees).

And if you use a biological product, then it is better to take settled or filtered water, i.e. without chlorine.

controversial situation: at the stage of the "green cone", as well as the "pink bud", it is necessary to carry out treatment for both pests and diseases. In principle, it is possible to prepare a tank mixture that will have insecticidal-fungicidal properties (be sure to check the compatibility of the preparations). But some agronomists believe that do not immediately give a double chemical load on the plant. It is better to take a break for at least 1 day (for example, on Saturday morning, treat with a fungicide, and on Sunday morning with an insecticide). It is also possible to spray with an interval of 1 week, i.e. on one weekend they were treated for pests, the next - for diseases (or vice versa).

Against what diseases and pests is the spring processing of the garden carried out

Diseases

Spring processing of the orchard is carried out against the following fungal diseases of fruit trees and berry bushes:

Apple tree - scab, moniliosis (fruit rot) or monilial burn, rust (formed in summer).

Scab on apples

Pear - scab, phyllosticosis (brown spot), septoria (white spot), moniliosis (fruit rot) or monilial burn, rust (formed in summer).

Pear moniliosis (fruit rot)

Cherry, sweet cherry - clasterosporiasis (perforated spotting), moniliosis (fruit rot).

Cherry coccomycosis

Plum, cherry plum - clasterosporiasis (perforated spot), polystigmosis (red spot of plum or cherry plum), moniliosis (fruit rot).

Plum polystigmosis

Apricot, peach - klyasterosporiosis (perforated spotting), moniliosis (fruit rot).

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries - powdery mildew, septoria (white spotting), anthracnose, bacterial burn (in raspberries).
Strawberries (garden strawberries) - powdery mildew, gray rot.
Grapes - oidium (true powdery mildew), mildew (downy mildew), anthracnose, gray rot.

Thus, almost fruit crops are affected by these or other spots, as well as by various rots or powdery mildew.

Pests

The most the first processing of pome (apple, pear) and stone fruits (cherry, plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach) carried out against the following wintering stages of pests:

scale insects;
worms;
ticks;
sucker and other sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Second and subsequent processing of apple and pear trees (pomaceous crops) already carried out against the following pests:

apple flower beetle or apple flower beetle weevil;

apple fruit sawfly;
green apple aphid;
apple codling moth;

gray bud weevil;
bukarka;
goose;
leafworm and other leaf-eating;
budworms;
suckers;
moth.

Concerning stone fruits (cherries, plums, cherry plums), then already second and subsequent treatments is carried out against pests such as plum aphid, gray bud weevil, goose, cherry weevil, plum black sawfly, mining moths, leaf-eating caterpillars, eastern codling moth, cherry moth, cherry slimy sawfly, yellow plum sawfly, plum codling moth, cherry fly, plum pachypod , plum pollinated aphid.

Pests of berry crops(currants, gooseberries, raspberries) against which spring treatments are carried out are:

bud mite (tick buds on currants);
currant moth;

raspberry fly;
raspberry beetle;
galitsa (shoot and stem);
kidney moth.

The specifics of the processing of adult (old) and young trees

Mature trees and shrubs should preferably be treated in 4 stages, with at least 4 sprays.

While the tree does not bloom, insects stick to it less, so young seedlings and shrubs It will be enough to process only 2 times:

on dormant buds from diseases and wintering pests;
"on a green cone" from insect pests.

Advice! Young pome and stone fruit trees are best processed 3 times. After flowering, when pea-sized ovaries are formed - from diseases (especially against moniliosis).

Features of processing fruit trees and berry bushes

In the spring, you need to process both fruit trees and shrubs. If you treat only trees and forget about shrubs, then some diseases and pests can again spread to trees.

However, it should be borne in mind that, for example, currants begin their vegetation earlier than most of the trees.

In general, as a rule, both trees and shrubs are sprayed at once in the spring, except that the grapes are processed separately, perhaps even strawberries (garden strawberries).

Advice! You can learn about the specifics and differences in the processing of berry bushes (namely currants and raspberries) in the following video:

Video: protection and treatment of currants and raspberries from pests and diseases - how to spray shrubs in spring

How to process a garden in spring: the best preparations

To successfully treat the garden in the spring, you will need fungicides (drugs to fight diseases) and insecticides (drugs to fight insect pests), and these agents can be of both chemical origin and biological (taken out in a separate paragraph).

Note! At each stage, you can use both the same drugs (in order to save money), and new ones (it is better to change the active substance so that there is no addiction - it will be more effective), or alternate (use alternately).

Important! The instructions for each drug always say when (at what time) they need to be processed.

Fungicides

As for preparations suitable for spring garden spraying against diseases, the following can be used fungicides(chemical agents for combating fungal diseases of plants):

Important! You need to choose only one preparation (fungicide).

Bordeaux mixture (3% solution of Bordeaux liquid - before bud break and 1% - in the "rose bud" stage);

Copper vitriol;

Abiga Peak ( contact fungicide based copper oxychloride, against scab, moniliosis, clasterosporiasis - perforated spotting, coccomycosis, leaf curl, powdery mildew and other diseases);

Hom ( contact fungicide based copper oxychloride);
Oksihom ( contact-systemic fungicide action based copper oxychloride and oxadixyl, against scab, moniliosis, various spotting: clasterosporiasis - perforated spotting, coccomycosis - brown spotting, leaf curl, powdery mildew, mildew, anthracnose and other diseases);

Order ( contact systemic fungicide based copper oxychloride and cymoxanil, very effective against mildew on grapes)

By the way! Some believe (partly rightly so) that treating plants with copper-containing preparations is harmful to human health. But copper is by no means the most harmful drug, especially in such doses and at such an early time, when fruiting is still very far away.

It should be understood that it is in early spring that there are practically no other effective substitutes (except for the use of iron sulfate). Biological preparations are completely ineffective (do not work) at low temperatures.

Inkstone;

Advice! About, when, how and why to use iron sulphate, described in detail.

Carbamide (urea);

As a rule, urea is used together with copper or iron sulphate.

Thiovit Jet ( contact fungicide based sulfur, especially effective against powdery mildew and mites);
Forecast ( systemic fungicide based propiconazole, against powdery mildew, rust, anthracnose, purple spot, septoria - white spot, gray rot and other diseases of berry bushes)
Horus ( systemic fungicide based cyprodinil, against scab, moniliosis, fruit rot, coccomycosis, alternariosis, clasterosporiasis - perforated spot, leaf curl, powdery mildew, oidium, mildew, gray rot and other diseases);

Speed ( systemic fungicide based difenoconazole, against scab, moniliosis, fruit rot, powdery mildew, coccomycosis, phyllostictosis - brown spotting, klesterosporiosis - perforated spotting, leaf curl, septoria, anthracnose, black spotting and other diseases);

Rayok ( systemic fungicide based difenoconazole, against scab, powdery mildew, curl and other diseases);

In fact, Speed \u003d Rayok (its analogue).

strobe ( systemic fungicide based kresoxim-methyl, against scab, powdery mildew, anthracnose, curliness, rust, oidium, mildew);
Topaz ( systemic fungicide based penconazole, against powdery mildew on berry crops, for example, on currants);

Fundazol ( systemic fungicide based benomyla, against scab, powdery mildew, oidium, gray rot);
Byleton ( systemic fungicide based triadymephone, against scab, powdery mildew, leaf curl, rust, oidium, gray rot);
And other broad-spectrum contact and systemic fungicides.

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against what diseases), terms, dosages!

Insecticides

As for preparations suitable for spraying the garden in spring against pests, the following insecticides (chemical pest control agents) can be used:

Important! You need to choose only one drug (insecticide).

Aktar;

Calypso;
Confidor;
Spark;

Intavir;
Kleshchevit;
Tanrek;

Fufanon;
Decis Pro;

Kinmiks;
Karate;

30 plus;
Engio.
and other broad-spectrum insecticides;

Advice! Carefully study the instructions: the scope of the drug (against which pests), terms, dosages.

Video: how to spray trees in the spring from insect pests

Biologicals

Biological products are created on the basis of living organisms:

mushroom antagonists;

bacteria;

bacterial viruses;

beneficial insects (entomophages and acariphages).

Among biological products, fungicides, insecticides, and one insectofungicide can be distinguished.

Biological preparations of fungicidal action (against diseases):

Fitolavin;

Planriz;
Trichodermin;
Pentaphage;
Mikosan;
Pharma Iodine (based on iodine).

Biological preparations of insecticidal action (against pests):

Aktofit;

Interesting! Aktofit is created on the basis of toxins of biological origin.

Bitoxibacillin;
Lepidocid;
Fitoverm;
Gaupsin (insectofungicide of complex action).

Note! Yes, biologics have their advantages (they are environmentally friendly), but it's worth recognizing that they are not as effective as chemical agents.

Tank mixes (fungicides + insecticides)

Note! Not all drugs can be mixed. For example, practically nothing can be mixed with Bordeaux mixture (it has an alkaline reaction).

The instructions should be written with which drugs they can be combined.

For treatments (except for the first, when the kidneys are still sleeping), you can prepare the following tank mixtures (fungicide + insecticide):

Chorus (fungicide) + Decis Profi (insecticide);
Bayleton (fungicide) + Karate (insecticide);
Biological tank mix: Gaupsin ( insectofungicide of complex action)+ Lepidocide (insecticide) + Bitoxibacillin (insecticide);
And a lot others.

Thus, now you have all the information for a successful spring garden treatment from diseases and pests. You just need to purchase drugs (fungicides and insecticides) and monitor the development of your plants, as well as the weather.

Video: how to spray a garden in spring - processing fruit trees from diseases and pests

In contact with

The processing of fruit trees in the spring is one of the cornerstones laid for a rich future harvest. Autumn processing, although it destroys some of the pests, is more aimed at preserving fruit trees in the cold winter. Spring allows you to control the number of harmful insects and outbreaks of diseases. In fact, garden care only stops during the winter months. The rest of the time, trees need a difference in procedure. And all this is subject to a certain scheme for processing fruit trees: immediately after the snow melts, it is too early to fight fungal diseases on fruits, and in summer it may be too late to fight caterpillars and other insects.

Preparing plants in the garden

The first processing of fruit trees after winter is carried out in March immediately after the snow has melted from the trees. The air temperature is still low, the insects are sleeping, and there is a chance to manually remove some of the pests. During this treatment, the branches that died in winter are cut off, the old bark is removed and annual shoots are cut off. Under the lagging old bark, the eggs of hawthorn and golden tail hibernate, and nests of ringed silkworms are located in annual shoots. If the trees were insulated for the winter, they are "undressed".

When to start processing trees

Processing in the spring of fruit crops from diseases and pests begins when a positive temperature of 4-6 ° C is reached. From this moment on, the treatments of trees either from insects or from diseases begin one after another.

Processing fruit trees in early spring

After the snow at the trunks has melted to the ground, they are processed from the apple blossom beetle. The fight against harmful insects begins in early to mid-April.

Important! In the spring, you can not delay the processing of fruit trees from this pest.

The apple flower beetle wakes up at + 8 ° С. Until this moment, it is necessary to have time to whitewash the trees and place trapping belts with glue on the trunks. At higher temperatures, fungal diseases are activated, and in this case, trapping belts are no longer enough.

Spraying trees before flowering

The first spring treatment of fruit trees from fungal diseases is carried out even before bud break during the "green cone", that is, swelling of the buds. Sap flow begins immediately at positive temperatures, and the kidneys in the Middle lane begin to swell at the end of April. At this time, spring processing of fruit trees from fruit rot and scab is carried out. For spraying, you can use:

Bordeaux liquid 1%. In 10 liters of water, take 100 g of lime and copper sulfate.
A solution of copper sulphate. 100 g of crystals per 10 liters of water.
Kartocide;
Abigapic.

The last 3 are industrial fungicides. Breeding instructions are included.

Important! The timing of the spring treatment of fruit trees from pests is strictly tied to the development cycle of insects.

Most insecticides act on insects at a certain stage of development. What works on adults is safe for their clutches. A pear during swelling of the kidneys is sprayed from ticks with colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 liters of water) or Neoron.

Spraying the garden during flowering

The main spring treatment of fruit trees from pests falls during the flowering period. In May, all insects have already woken up and are actively breeding. Biologically active agents are used against leafworms:

Fitoverm;
Biotoxibacillin;
Lepidocide.

The preparations are diluted according to the instructions and sprayed with fruit crops.

Cherries and plums are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture twice before flowering ends. The second treatment is done 2 weeks after the first. Spraying will protect these trees from fungal diseases:

scab;
perforated spotting;
coccomiosis;
monilial burn.

Immediately after flowering, these trees are sprayed with insecticides against scale insects: Karbofos or Aktara.

Processing during fruit formation

At the end of May, codling moths are born, laying eggs in the emerging ovaries. The larvae develop in the fruit throughout the entire period of crop maturation. Those “half a worm” that can be seen by biting off a piece of an apple is the larva of the codling moth almost ready for pupation. Codling moths affect not only apples, but also plums, pears and peaches.

Strong industrial insecticides are used against these night butterflies when processing fruit trees in late spring. After 2 weeks, the treatment is repeated.

The first month of summer can be classified as late spring, since astronomical summer begins only on June 21. This month, a new treatment of trees against the codling moth may be required. In the same month, aphids and silkworms attack the trees. Pest control in June is carried out with an eye to the timing of the ripening of the crop. In some cases, only folk remedies will have to be used.

Important! The means of treatment must be changed, as the insects adapt to the poison.

How to process fruit trees in spring

Depending on the month and the presence of leaves, flowers and ovaries, various preparations can be used to treat trees: from chemicals to folk repellents. Chemistry can be safely used in early spring at the stage of awakening of plants and up to the appearance of ovaries. When crops ripen, chemicals should be used carefully, checking their expiration date. If possible, it would be better to switch to biological agents, the main active component of which is bacteria.

Folk remedies can be used at any time, even immediately before harvesting. But these substances do not destroy, but repel insects. From the point of view of population control, folk remedies are of little use.

Chemicals

Of the chemicals in the spring for spraying use:

lime;
copper sulfate;
inkstone;
Bordeaux liquid;
industrial insecticides against pests.

Lime is the easiest to use. Tree trunks are whitewashed with it, and still bare branches are sprayed with lime water.

Similarly, copper and iron sulfates are used. Solutions of these substances are used in the spring among the first, while the buds have not yet blossomed. 100 g of any of the vitriols is diluted in 10 liters of water and fruit trees are sprayed. Iron vitriol is advisable to use on plums, pears and apple trees. These crops are in great need of iron. Spraying with iron sulfate will not only help fight diseases and pests, but also provide fruit trees with iron.

Bordeaux liquid is a mixture of lime and copper sulfate diluted in water. Functions are the same as for individual components.

Insecticides

It is desirable to choose insecticides with a prolonged action. Many modern drugs penetrate into plant tissues and remain there for up to 2 weeks. Therefore, these formulations should not be used shortly before harvest. In the spring, chemical insecticides will be harmless to humans. For pest control use:

Fastak;
Tsimbush;
Arrivo;
Decis;
Sherpa;
Karate;
Cytcore;
Fury;
Kinmiks;
Fastak;
Karbofos;
Calypso;
other drugs.

Instructions for use are indicated on the packages, but the general rule for liquid substances: from aphids 1 ml per 10 liters of water, from ticks 2 ml per 10 liters.

Biological agents

Biological control methods involve the use of natural enemies of garden pests. It can be:

Insects will deal with each other themselves, the main thing is not to destroy all living things in the garden. Birds are lured into the garden in the spring by building nests for them. But birds are also dangerous. They can also eat the harvest.

Important! The composition is used immediately after preparation, after an hour it loses its toxic properties.

The need to use the substance immediately after preparation is a common misfortune of all biological preparations. During preparation, the bacteria come out of their dormant state and are activated. Without receiving the food they need, microorganisms die.

Folk remedies

Folk methods of struggle are more suitable for scaring away harmful insects. These substances do not act on fungi and pathogenic bacteria. Or they act, killing the plant at the same time. Folk remedies include:

soda;
ammonia;
vinegar;
laundry soap solution;
ash;
hydrogen peroxide;
decoctions of herbal repellents.

These funds are best used not in the spring, but at the last stage of the ripening of the crop, when there is little time left before the fruit is harvested. During this period, the drugs are able to scare away insects, but will not harm people. After harvesting, the foliage of trees is treated with chemicals that destroy pathogenic microorganisms.

In order not to get confused in the timing and procedure for processing fruit trees, make a calendar of garden work by months.

Since June, it is better not to use Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate and other preparations containing copper. They can cause burns on fruits and leaves. Especially if you spray the plants in cloudy weather.

When spraying the foliage of trees, make sure that the drug also gets on the back of the leaves.

Conclusion

Processing fruit trees in the spring, carried out at the right time and with appropriate preparations, provides the gardener with a good harvest. The main thing is not to be lazy to process the trees in early spring, when the plants are just waking up.

After planting trees and shrubs in the garden, you need to learn how to properly treat them from pests and diseases. Most often this is done in the fall.

Many gardeners, especially beginners, are interested in information on how to treat trees and shrubs in the fall from pests and diseases. Processing must be done correctly. In addition, it is required to dig the soil.

With the advent of cold weather, especially if the plant grows in a region with a cold climate, crops need to be covered. Often a special material is used for shelter, but peat, sawdust, dry leaves can also come in handy.

It is necessary to process trees and shrubs in the fall from pests and diseases when the plants throw off the foliage and are ready for it. Most often this is the end of September - the beginning of October.

The main task of processing is to rid trees and shrubs of pests. In addition, it will help the plants cope with future frosts.

When choosing a day to start processing trees and shrubs in the fall from pests and diseases, pay attention to weather conditions. The street should be warm and dry. But there should be no frost either. After the plants are processed, it is necessary to get rid of all the branches that were cut earlier. It is required to burn them in order to prevent the spread of diseases to other plants.

There is no need to bury the old foliage underground, as insects quite often lay their larvae on the leaves. Because of this, in the future, new pests will destroy healthy plants. Around trees and shrubs you need to dig up the soil. It is important not to hurt the roots.

When choosing how to treat trees and shrubs in the fall from pests and diseases, do not forget about the use of whitewash. Proper treatment of the plant will help protect the tree from the spread of insects, as well as the development of diseases. With the help of whitewashing, trees and shrubs are completely disinfected, so they can easily endure the stylish frosts that can be in winter.

Before proceeding with whitewashing, be sure to lay a cloth around the tree, and process the surface of the tree itself with a scraper to remove old bark. Whitewashing is applied with a special wide brush to a height of at least one and a half meters.

Spraying as a treatment method

When choosing preparations with which you can treat trees and shrubs in the fall from pests and diseases, you can opt for copper or iron sulphate. Any preparation chosen for the treatment of the plant must be used carefully. The gardener must remember about safety when working.

In order not to harm yourself, you need to use a special suit that will not let moisture through, gloves, a respirator mask.
The sprayer must be easy to use so that the garden can be treated quickly and safely.

Quite often, urea is chosen as a spray solution, but it should be processed closer to frost. Spraying is also carried out if it is necessary to get rid of moss and lichen. It is in them that insects most often lay their eggs. It is best to use iron sulfate for this purpose. It will not only save the plant from pests, but also prepare it for wintering.

When processing plants such as grapes, currants, gooseberries, a solution of copper sulfate is most often used. To make it work better, it is worth adding lime. Treatment with such a liquid should be carried out in the fall. Before treating trees and shrubs from pests and diseases, the dose of the solution can be increased by at least 3%.

How to spray

Quite often, spraying is carried out with products that are sold in the store. This is the easiest option, since all the powders are already ready, you just need to stir them in water. The most commonly used preparations when processing a garden in the fall:

Urea. Spraying can be carried out until mid-October. Quite often, urea is used to rid the plant of the fungus. In addition, it will help burn out the eggs of insects that harm plants. Note! Urea treatment is carried out only until the end of October, if it is done later, the garden will not have time to prepare in the winter cold and will die.
To rid the garden of powdery mildew, diseases associated with rotting plants, it is required to treat them with fungicides. It is very good to use copper sulfate, which can be used at any time of the year.

By adding copper sulfate to lime, you can easily get rid of diseases and insects. After using the product, trees and shrubs will be covered with a blue film, so you should not worry. Gradually, the solution will be washed off, but at the same time the plantings will be very well protected from pests.
Iron vitriol is most often used in the place where apple trees, plums, cherries and peaches grow. In addition to the fact that the composition is useful in diseases and eliminates insects, it gives the plants the required amount of iron.

In order for plants to grow and develop well, insecticides can be added to vitriol, which will have a beneficial effect on insect control.

After processing the garden, you need to remove everything superfluous from the site. All collected garbage must be burned, this is the only way to be sure that insects will not spread again.

How to process fruit trees

After the foliage on the trees begins to turn yellow, you need to dig in, and then add organic and mineral top dressing. Examine each planting. If there are broken or diseased branches, cut them off. Perform a wound healing procedure.

When pruning fruit trees, it is required that all tools are clean. After cutting the branches, treat the cut points with copper sulphate. Then it is required to carry out whitewashing of trees. It is better to do it after the end of the autumn rains. To get rid of rodents, poison traps can be laid out in the garden, but in such a way that they are inaccessible to birds.

The right approach to the processing of each shrub or tree growing on the site will help make them healthy. Next year, each plant will give you rich.

Spring is the time to start active work in the garden. Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases is an important step in preparing the garden for a good harvest.

And the main task is to help the shrubs cope with awakening insect pests and pathogens of various diseases. Of course, we cannot completely get rid of them, but it is quite possible to reduce their number.

♦♦♦ Treat the garden after pruning fruit trees.♦♦♦

One garden treatment is not enough. Specialists and experienced gardeners agree that a series of treatments should be carried out.

When to start gardening?

We are determined not by the dates indicated in magazines, reference books, but by weather conditions, by average daily temperature, by the condition of your trees and shrubs.

♦♦♦ Remember that sooner is better than later.♦♦♦

The first spring treatment of the garden

We carry it out as soon as the average positive temperature is +4°…+5°.

♦♦♦ The first spray is the most important!♦♦♦

We spray fruit trees and shrubs until the buds swell.

Sleeping kidney.

♦♦♦ Be sure to inspect the plants. Plants do not wake up at the same time.♦♦♦

If the kidneys are not swollen, you can use a high concentration of drugs. It won't harm the plants.

But if the kidneys are already swollen, it is impossible to use a high concentration of drugs.

What to spray?

Antifungal compounds:

blue vitriol

1% solution (100 g per 10 l of water) Having previously dissolved 100 g of copper sulfate in 1 l of warm water, add the remaining 9 l to the container. The resulting solution should be filtered to avoid clogging the sprayer.

♦♦♦ Important! When preparing solutions containing copper sulphate, contact of the sulphate with the metal should be avoided.♦♦♦

3% solution of Bordeaux mixture

How to make Bordeaux liquid

From pests

Fufanon-Nova
Iskra M
Universal remedy for pests and diseases: Urea 700 g + 50 g of copper sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water

Second spring treatment "Green Cone"

The tip of the kidney, which had moved into growth, turned a little green. The green cone is characterized by the fact that the buds on the buds of the trees have burst, but the leaves have not yet unfolded. The green cone phase is very short. At a temperature of +10°C, sufficient moisture and enough sun, the plants pass this phase very quickly.

If the leaves have unfolded, the green cone phase has already passed.

What to spray?

Antifungal compounds:

1% solution of Bordeaux mixture
Oksikhom
Ordan
Horus

From pests

Fufanon-Nova
Iskra M
Aliot

tank mixes

Tank mixes can be prepared for gardening. To do this, a drug for diseases and a drug for pests are diluted in one container.

For example: "Horus" and "Aktara" are compatible; Horus and Decis.

Types of tank solutions for eradicating treatment:

Along the green cone for 10 liters of water	If the buds open for 20 liters of water	Along the green cone for 10 liters of water	If the buds open for 20 liters of water
300 g copper sulphate	300 g copper sulphate	500 g iron sulfate	500 g iron sulfate
1 l urea	1 l urea	30-40 g citric acid	30-40 g citric acid
		200-250 ml liquid soap (not green) or dishwashing liquid	liquid soap (not green) or dishwashing liquid 200-250 ml
30-40 ml ammonia	30-40 ml ammonia	A little humate	small amount of humate
A little humate	small amount of humate

♦♦♦ When filling the sprayer, use a filter.♦♦♦

Copper sulphate is pre-dissolved in 1 liter of hot water.

Urea prevents the development and reproduction of fungal diseases and pests.

♦♦♦ Treating the garden with urea in the “green cone” phase delays the flowering of the garden a little. This is relevant at the risk of return frosts.♦♦♦

Soap removes surface tension, which contributes to the uniform distribution of the solution on the plant.

♦♦♦ Laundry soap, any solid soap and liquid green (garden) soap are not compatible with copper sulphate. Copper sulfate precipitates.♦♦♦

Stir the resulting solutions well until completely dissolved and spray the garden.

Iron vitriol oxidizes quickly, so we add a complexing agent, for example: citric acid. After dissolving citric acid in water, add iron sulfate.

Coniferous processing

We process coniferous trees, especially juniper, with a diluted solution.

If the conifers have already begun to grow, we dilute the preparations in 30 liters of water.

Spring processing of conifers will save plants not only from diseases, but will also prevent the development of rust fungus, from which the pear suffers greatly.

You can repeat the treatment after 7-10 days, but be sure to pay attention to the condition of the kidneys. For best results, the use of different solutions is recommended.