Do-it-yourself bath from a bar 100x150 6x3. The technology of building a bath from a bar with your own hands. Small-sized log bath - we select building materials

Building a bath from a bar is easier and faster than from a brick, rounded log or chopped log. By quality characteristics it is no worse, and when using glued or profiled material natural humidity even better. This article will become a guide for those who are just going to build a bath from a bar with their own hands. Readers will get acquainted with the main stages of bath assembly, from the foundation to the roof, and will see photos and videos from specialists.

For the construction of a bath, you can use any timber. You need to rely on your wallet and the ability to carry out further finishing or not. It is also important from which timber the main house was built, it is better if the material in the ensemble is used alone. When installing, there are several factors to consider:

1. The type of wood from which the material is made.
2. Beam grade.
3. Type of timber (glued, profiled, edged).
4. The degree of drying of the material (natural humidity or chamber drying).

Easier to build a bath square section, for example, 3x3 or 4x4. At the same time, it is important that standard length timber 4 and 6 m, the rest are considered non-standard and are more expensive. During construction small bath near the house, a box of 3x3 m is considered optimal.

You can assemble a traditional Russian or Turkish bath from a bar, Finnish sauna. The material is not worse than a log and has many advantages. Great option baths for home and summer cottages, the main thing is to choose the right project and assemble a log house.

Log cabins for a bath are sold ready-made “for assembly”, it is easier to purchase and assemble them. And how to do it right we will tell below.

Wood - wood strife

For the construction of a bath, it is recommended to use a bar made of linden or larch. Pine and spruce are cheaper, but due to more resin at high temperatures the walls will start to cry. Of course, you can finish the interior with lime lining, but this is an additional waste.

Lime timber is less resistant to impact environment and moisture, but in the steam room it does not heat up so quickly and is more pleasant in tactile contact with the skin. You can cheat and buy part of the timber from pine or larch, and part from linden. The steam room is assembled from lime material, and the dressing room and washing room are made of larch. However, for such a design, individual project. There is a glued beam, in which 1 or 2 upper lamellas are made of linden, and the inner ones are made of pine., Sample projects easier to assemble from this. Although baths made of larch timber or cedar are also not uncommon. The first option is cheaper.

A, B or C grades, learning to choose for a bath

The grade of the beam is also important. Of course, kiln-dried glued or planed can be purchased without fear. But if we are talking about profiled or edged timber, you should be careful. It depends on how strong and durable the bath under construction will be. Grade A or Extra has no cracks, wormholes, bumps, but its price is higher than the rest. You can build a bath with your own hands from AB or B material. The main thing is to make sure that wormholes and rotten knots do not fall on the timber. Slight color irregularities are acceptable, but should not be confused with blue. Blue is a direct sign of the spread of rot and fungus, and already infected wood will not last long.

Cracks are also unacceptable, this is either a sign of improper drying or incorrect storage. And if the material is of natural moisture, then during shrinkage, the cracks will open and heat loss will increase. And this should not be allowed in the bath.

According to GOST, small companies do not sort timber, due to the lack of certain criteria by which it is worth subdividing varieties. Therefore, it is worth looking at varieties from various manufacturers, it may turn out that grade C for one will be better than B, etc.

How the manufacture of material affects the construction and use of a log bath

Disputes about which timber is suitable for the construction of a bath do not subside on the forums to this day. It is impossible to say definitely that one of the species is better, since all have their pros and cons:

Chamber drying or natural humidity?

In any case, no matter what the manufacturers promise, a bath from a beam for shrinkage will settle down and will be worse than chamber drying. After some time, the walls will darken, and the cracks will expand even more when dried. The main reason for this is improper drying of the material. A beam with a cross section of 100 mm or more in Russia, few people dry it correctly. Therefore, construction companies purchasing material always measure the humidity in the middle of the product with a manual moisture meter. You can buy timber from the winter forest, when the natural humidity is almost identical to chamber drying. Yes, and construction winter period costs less.

Acquisition and settlement of material

You can calculate the amount of timber for a bath according to the project or on the online calculator, which are many on the websites of any construction company. A well-designed project cannot be completed on its own. You can entrust this part to specialists. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the features of the structure, as for the beam it should be selected so that there are few joints on the walls. But when buying, it is better to take a small supply (2-3 beams). When building with your own hands, you can accidentally make a mistake and ruin the part. But you should not worry about damaged lumber, it will go to window or doorways, other small parts.

The main stages of installation of a timber bath

The entire installation of a bath from a bar takes place in several main stages: installation of a foundation for a bath, laying the first crown, laying walls, installing a roof (rough or finishing). Let's take a closer look at each.

Installation of the foundation for a bath from a bar

Since the log bath is a lightweight construction, the foundation is suitable for tape or columnar. In any case, pre-marking is done around the entire perimeter.

You can read more about the installation of the foundation for the bath in this article.

Any of the foundations must be further strengthened with reinforcement. It is later used to fasten the crown.

Installation of the first crown under the timber bath

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to perform waterproofing between it and the foundation. It is best to use a coating based on bituminous mastic. It is easy to apply and dries quickly. After that, the top of the foundation is covered with roofing material in 2 layers. Two rows of small stacks are laid on the strip foundation, only after that they begin to install the first crown.

The first crown is laid with a beam of a larger section and preferably from moisture-resistant wood, for example, larch or aspen. You need to lay the crown exactly on the level. if you skip the curvature, the entire masonry will “crawl” in the future. It is not necessary to bind the lower crown to the foundation, since further pressure on the structure will not allow it to move. But for greater certainty, you can tie in several places with a knitting wire to the reinforcement. But if you want to dismantle the lower part over time will be problematic.

Before styling lower crown need to be treated with deep penetration antiseptics, for example, Senezh. grandfather method engine oil processing is also suitable. Only after laying the first crown correctly, you can proceed to the walls.

Laying timber - the traditional way on the dowels

The easiest way to lay profiled timber. Its lock connection is tightly connected, and the elements fold like children's designer. You can connect the timber to each other with iron or wooden dowels. It is better to use wooden ones, since when the iron dowels dry out, they become visible and the design looks unsightly.

The dowels are fastened by drilling holes in increments of 1-1.5 m. It is necessary to drill the timber so that the drill passes through the first timber, and only halfway through the second timber. Nagels are driven into the lower beam, and the upper one is simply put on them. Nagel of each subsequent row should not be located one above the other.

A jute insulation is laid between the timber. You can use any other, but in practice the jute tape proved to be better than the rest. So link by link the walls are assembled. It is not necessary to fasten the two upper beams with dowels, since after assembling the box they will have to be temporarily dismantled for installation beam floors.

Door and window openings in the bath for shrinkage can not be completely laid out after shrinkage, they are sawn through with a saw.

The final stage in the construction of the bath will be the laying of a final or rough roof. If the bath is assembled for shrinkage, then the rough roof is laid for a year and only then the final one is mounted. To do this, the upper row of timber is covered with boards 50-60 mm wide and closed with roofing material and slate. All Finishing work also begin to perform after complete shrinkage.

For a bath from a bar of chamber drying, a fine roof is mounted, a drain sewer is made Wastewater, drain ventilation system and interior decoration. We will talk about all these stages in more detail in the following articles.

You can do the construction of a bath with your own hands in 1-2 months, but despite the simplicity, a beam of especially natural moisture, 4 or 6 m long, is heavy, so it’s difficult to cope with the work alone, look for an assistant.

So, you have already erected the foundation for your bath, and you have chosen timber as the material for the walls. A great option, quite durable, environmentally friendly and easy to use! If you are new to construction, then timber is the best choice.

However, even this simple and versatile material requires some knowledge and skills that are necessary when building walls. Especially for a building such as a bathhouse, for the arrangement of which certain additional steps are needed.

Before you start building a bath from a material such as a beam, you should correctly calculate the size of the lumber for the walls, learn how to connect the beams and splice them along the length, choose a heater for laying between the crowns and much more. Let's consider these questions sequentially.

Initial information about the construction of a bath log house

Building a bath, especially walls for it, can be quite costly.. The modern construction market has a huge range of materials, both traditional and modern, which are widely used in the construction of buildings for a specific purpose. But wood for a bath is the most popular commodity for a variety of reasons. These are long-standing traditions in construction, and wide distribution, relatively low price, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

beam in this case- a material that is much easier to work with, moreover, does not require additional processing, if you buy it, and do not make it yourself.

In order not to incur additional costs for wall insulation, it is worth taking a bar with a section of 150 x 150 mm. This thickness of wood walls is optimal, and will allow you to use the sauna throughout the year. To make the connection between the bars more dense, and the view finished wall- aesthetic and pleasant, each beam needs to be trimmed properly.

One of the main positive qualities timber is that walls made of this material do not require; they look self-sufficient, you just need to carefully process the bars. If you are planning to decorate outer sides walls, it will be enough to plan the material only from the side oriented towards inner space bath room.

The first step in the construction of a bath from a bar is the installation of a strapping wreath on a prepared foundation. The best option the choice of timber timber for the strapping crown - hardwood ash, oak and larch. Be sure to treat the building material with antiseptic substances.

Laying the first crown of the log house

The quality factor and stability of the entire log cabin of a bath from a bar depends on how well you lay the first crown. And you should prepare for this work thoroughly, having calculated each step in advance.

Before laying the first, initial strapping crown, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the bath foundation. Before doing this, check with a level: it must be exactly horizontal. In case of a difference of more than 1 centimeter, level with a concrete mortar.

After that, evenly place the roofing material in several layers, smeared with each other with mastic. Experts call the following stacking technology optimal: 2 layers of roofing material, laying board, one more layer of roofing material. Connect the bars of the first crown to each other in half a tree, and in order to prevent possible later shifts of the bars, arrange a secret spike.

The next step is the insulation of the crown crown. For this, a layer of flax-jute fiber laid over a beam is optimally suited. The next crown is laid on the insulation layer, and so on, alternating timber and thermal insulation. This will help to avoid blowing through in possible cracks, and will also play an important role in the subsequent hydro and vapor barrier of the bath from the inside.

Choosing the right timber for the first crown

The beam must be selected and prepared in advance so as not to be distracted by trifles and shortcomings during the construction process. To install the first crown, you should choose a high-quality material, since the integrity of the structure during operation depends on it:

• the beam must be perfectly flat;
• there should be no knots and chips on the surface;
• the main condition is the maximum density of the beam rings; for the manufacture of such material is taken middle part tree;
• a beam with traces of blue on the surface of the wood is categorically unacceptable not only for the first crown, but for the entire frame.

The finished timber produced at the factory is usually already processed and completely ready for use, but additional processing will not hurt, especially for the construction of a bath. Thoroughly coat the beam with mastic, which is pre-mixed with mining. Impregnation based on this composition is perfectly absorbed into the wood. The ends of the timber do not need to be processed, they should remain bare and release moisture from themselves during drying and shrinkage of the structure.

It depends on how carefully you process the timber, how long the lower crown will serve faithfully, and therefore all the walls of your bath.

Methods for locking beams in a log house

There are several ways to connect the timber in the walls of the bath, which will avoid the effects of wind and cold temperatures on the room from the outside. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Method one: butt joint. With it, the bars are joined at the ends to each other, while each connecting seam is overlapped from above by the next. In order for the butt joint to be reliable and not lose its qualities over time, follow the ends of the bars: they must be absolutely even. The cut makes an angle of 90 degrees.

However, a butt joint, even a very tight one, does not exclude rather high heat losses through such corners of the bath. Well, since the bath should be warm and cozy, it is worth considering such a method as " warm corner”, which is a connection of bars into a root spike.

For such a connection, a special groove is made in the end part of one of the bars, and a vertical spike is made in the other bar, at the end. In some cases, knitting is done according to the principle of a double or triple slotted spike, that is, several vertical spikes are made on the beam, respectively.

Whatever type of timber connection you choose for the walls of your bath, most importantly - do not forget to bookmark interventional insulation between the bars. This will simultaneously increase the density of the connection of building materials and serve as excellent thermal insulation for the entire log house.

Sometimes during construction it may be necessary to splice the bars along the length. In this case, the "butt" method for splicing is not recommended for use. For such work, there are types of splicing that have been used for a long time:

• oblique cut at the ends, or oblique butt;
• end butt joint with a crest preventing the formation of cracks;
• direct overlay method, in which the cutting is twice the thickness of the beam in length;

• a relatively new and more practical method of slanted and slanted escutcheon, which provides resistance to lateral loads.

Insulation used for laying between crowns

As mentioned above, flax jute is the most optimal material to provide insulation between the crowns. Now it can be bought at any building supermarket. This insulation comes in rolls. different widths, depending on the size of the selected log or beam, which greatly simplifies the choice, in addition, it is very easy to cut into strips according to the selected length. This material is made from natural fibers of jute and flax, the composition is maintained in strict proportions.

During the production process, a canvas is obtained high density and uniform thickness, in which the fibers are fastened together with special needles with notches.

By laying flax-and-jute between the beams as a heater during the construction of walls, you will save yourself from the need for additional caulking, and after the shrinkage of the beam is over, the walls will take the form of a solid monolith. Such a fabric will not spread due to the loads applied by the crowns, it will provide uniform insulation along the length of the seam, it is resistant to moisture, wind and dust, temperature changes and other climatic troubles.

Dowel for timber

The log crowns should be connected to each other around the entire perimeter, as well as in the corners on lock connections using dowels, or wooden round dowels. Such dowels should be made of wood hard rock, that is, larch, oak or ash. The very process of making a dowel is as follows: take an inch board, cut square slats out of it. After sawing them to the required length. Give the slats a rounded shape by squeezing and chipping off the sides.

There is a much simpler and less expensive, "lazy" way to make a nagel. Buy ready-made shovels and rakes from the store, and cut them according to the right size. This can save you a lot of money and especially time.

The installation of dowels in a beam is done at a distance of a meter and a half from each other, and in without fail on each side of the log house at the corners. It is necessary to fasten the beam on those sections of the wall where windows and doors will be located, and fastening should be done 15-20 centimeters before the cutout for the box. This will subsequently prevent the beam from being twisted out of the masonry during the drying of the wood and during the shrinkage of the bath log.

In order to install the dowel, holes are drilled in the beam from above in such a way that the two upper beams are stitched through, and in the third a groove is obtained with a depth of 5 to 7 cm, no more. Strictly maintain the diameter of the dowel: it should be approximately 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the hole. If you do not follow this rule, then during the shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “walk”, which will lead to their significant distortion and affect the boxes for windows and doors. The dowel should easily enter the hole when driving and sink into the upper beam by 5 centimeters.

This method of installing dowels is one of the most common, but far from the only one. Many masters have found their own method, which has become familiar. After all, the most main function dowel - to exclude the displacement of the beam inside the masonry and ensure the log house has the correct shrinkage during drying, during which the wood will freely move along the surface of the dowel.

The technology discussed above will make it easy, without special professional skills, to build walls required height, while taking into account the natural drying of wood, and, accordingly, shrinkage along the height of the log house of the building by about 7-8 percent.

Related videos

Completion of work on the construction of walls from a bar

After the construction of the walls from the timber for your bath is over, without wasting time, you should start installing ceiling beams and roof construction. It is not worth delaying with this, since the open interior of the bath is subject to the harmful effects of precipitation and wood, as well as the decay of used wood.

When the roof is installed, you can safely get down to work on waterproofing the walls from the inside and decorative trim outside. But this is a completely different story, you still have a lot to do in order for the bathhouse to please you, your family and guests. And we will cover each step in the following articles.

Building a bath is what most summer residents and owners think about country houses when landscaping a homestead. As building material many prefer natural wood, in particular, many pay attention to timber. It will be discussed further.

wooden beam has a number of advantages:

• Good value for money;
• Ease of installation. Even an inexperienced builder will be able to independently and without much difficulty build on his site a small bathhouse;
• The beam gives minimal shrinkage, compared with similar building materials;

This article will consider step-by-step instruction building a bath from a bar with your own hands, as well as tips on choosing quality material, foundation and much more.

First stage: design and selection of materials

As with the construction of any other building, for a bath it is necessary to create a drawing, a sketch, a plan - call it what you want. To draw up a plan, it is better to contact special design agencies, they will help you create an individual project just for you, taking into account all the features of your site, and also give some advice and recommendations.

At this stage, it is necessary to study the soil on which it is planned construction works. The choice and technology of foundation construction depends on the result of the analysis. AT ready plan all points must be submitted: the number of rooms, the total area, the thickness of the walls, the appearance, the main building, and facing material, the location of the furnace must also be chosen in advance, since a separate foundation must be provided for it.

*Important! total area baths depends mainly on the expected number of people who will use it. On average, for each person it is necessary to provide additional 4 square meters.

For any bath project, the following premises are characteristic:

• dressing room;
• Veranda (optional)
• washing;
• The steam room or sauna itself;
• Restroom;

If only two or three people will use the bath, then some rooms can be connected to increase free space, as well as expand their functionality. For example, a washing room can be presented in the form of a shower and located in one of the corners of the rest room. Or even a shower can be located outside the building, on the site.

The service life of the bath directly depends on the quality of the material from which it is built.

What you need to know and what you should pay attention to when choosing a bar:

• Procurement period. Ideally, timber should be harvested in winter from December to March.
• tracking period. After purchasing, the material must be cleaned of bark, if you harvest it yourself, leaving it only at the edges, and stored in a dry, inaccessible to direct sun rays, spot within one month. Only after that the tree is subject to processing and installation.
• Appearance and general condition of raw materials. When buying, carefully inspect each bar. It should be free from rot, fungus (small blue spots called blue stain) and wormholes (traces of insect infestation). The bar must have an ideal geometric shape, smooth edges. The absence of even the smallest cracks is an indicator High Quality, because moisture can accumulate in them, and a wet tree will begin to collapse very quickly.
• Variety. There are four main varieties: "Extra", "A", "B" and "C". They differ in quality and price. The "Extra" variety is the most expensive, but the price is fully justified. It is unlikely that you will find any defects on the bars of this grade. Grade "A" is not much worse than its "big brother", cheaper, but almost identical in quality. The other two varieties are mainly used for exterior finish and the construction of minor buildings such as a barn, a chicken coop, and so on.
• The type of tree. For the construction of a bath, it is better not to use coniferous bars, because when heated, this tree can “cry”, increasing the chance of ignition due to the resin, and it can also burn it when in contact with the skin. Experts advise using hardwoods, namely linden, larch, oak. If desired, you can make a steam room from linden, since such a room heats up faster, does not burn the skin and respiratory tract, and the dressing room and other rooms are made of larch. True, linden has some peculiarity - it is less resistant to external influences (temperature, moisture), but cheaper.
• Dimensions. A bar with a length of 4 or 6 meters is considered standard, all other options are considered non-standard and cost more, so it will be easier to build a bath with a square section of 3x3, 4x4 and so on.
• Storage method. In addition to what was said above, there are a number of requirements for the method of storing the material. Usually wooden bars are kept in packs or stacks, observing the intervals: between each other - 50 mm, between rows 100 mm and from the ground at a height of 200 mm.

In addition to the main building material, you will also need:

• Cement brand M400;
• Sawn timber;
• Boards and slats;
• Lining for finishing (external and internal);
• Refractory and red ceramic bricks for kilns;
• roofing material, most often shingles.
• Nails, screws;
• Galvanized corners for fastening;
• Reinforcing bars to create a foundation reinforcement belt;
• insulation blocks;
• cement blocks;
• cable, sockets, lighting and so on.

It is better to take all materials with a small margin, since no one is immune from accidental damage, and also, in any case, they can be used on the farm.

To build a bath, you can use different kinds building material. The most massive is the construction of the most ancient technology - from wood. You can build a bath from logs, or you can from a bar.

How to build the right bath from a bar with your own hands

The beam fits perfectly in rows, looks beautiful, practically does not shrink, keeps heat very well. Timber walls are easier to build than log walls. They can be installed immediately on the finished foundation, unlike logs, which are first adjusted on the ground, and then transferred to the foundation and built walls from them.

This type construction is the most cost-effective. Almost anyone with experience with power tools and a little desire can build a bath from a bar with their own hands.

I do not want to paint the disadvantages or advantages of building from certain materials. Each material has its pros and cons. Let's consider in more detail how to build a bath from a bar.

The technology of building a bath from a bar. Material selection

To build a bath from a bar with your own hands, you will need a profiled bar.

When laying the first few crowns (a finished row of timber along the perimeter is considered a crown), it is best to use larch timber, due to the fact that it rots less in a humid environment.

For subsequent crowns, starting from 2-3, you can take conifers wood (cedar, spruce, pine), because they are warmer and have water-repellent properties due to the presence of resins.

The optimal size of the timber for the outer box is considered to be 150x150 mm, and optimal size internal partitions- 150x100 mm.

As an antiseptic, the old-fashioned way is still considered the best. According to him, each beam is carefully processed with engine oil, and the very first crown (salary) should be processed from all sides, and all subsequent ones are processed from three inner sides.

Bath construction preparation

According to experts, the foundation for a bath is recommended to be done in the following most common ways:

1. Strip foundation - concrete is poured along the perimeter of the building to a freezing depth, or to a depth of 55-70 cm, the soil around is then additionally insulated.
2. Pillar foundation - columns are placed in the corners and along the perimeter, at a distance of approximately 1.5-2 m from each other. Usually it is made of bricks, and a concrete "cushion" is poured under each pillar.

In both cases, the waterproofing between the first crown and the foundation is made of two layers. waterproofing material, for example - roofing material.

The height of the part of the foundation that protrudes above the blind area should not be less than 150 mm, and the width should be 100 mm more than the thickness of the beam.

When pouring the foundation, remember about the "mortgages" of the reinforcement, in order to then fasten it with the first crown (salary).

crown seals

Sometimes "dashing masters" are advised to use mounting foam as a sealant. I want to note, firstly, it will result in a considerable sum of money. Secondly, polyurethane foam quickly turns yellow and is destroyed by external influences ultraviolet rays and internal exposure to moisture.
Foam is used guided by a certain technology, laying slats, but it is long and cumbersome, so it is more reliable to purchase ordinary seals for a log house.

There is a wide range for sale various heaters for wooden buildings. The easiest way to use is jute ( tape insulation). It is rolled out along the entire length of the beam and fastened with small nails or a construction stapler.

Walls

Let's start assembling the constructor from a bar. It is important to remember that when assembling walls from timber, it is unacceptable to make a tight fit. The tree, drying up, will shrink in thickness, and the length will always remain unchanged. The space must be loosely filled with insulation.

The number and length of the beam for each wall is determined based on the plan of the bathhouse, while taking into account the overlaps on the corners and cuts for installing internal walls. We prepare a template along the length from a board or a rail, using an electric saw, according to the template we will prepare a beam for 2-3 crowns. We will markup the template in a way that is convenient and understandable for us.

The fastening of the beam to each other is carried out according to the following scheme:

• stacking new bar and adjust in place;
• we drill holes in increments of 1.25-1.50 m, drilling the newly laid beam and half the underlying one;
• we remove the new timber, and drive a wooden dowel (dowel) into the hole of the lower one, the length of which is equal to two heights of the timber;
• we lay insulation along the length;
• we put the beam in place, check the horizontal position, combine the holes and pins and hammer it into place until it fits snugly.

door blocks we will put on a row of strapping, which is located in washing department above floor level and window block at the level we need. Blocks must be set on plumb lines, then fastened. Over the window boxes and doors you need to leave a gap of about 80 mm for shrinkage, then it must be filled with insulation.

Preparing the structure for the shrinkage period is the last step in the question of how to build a bath from a bar with your own hands. It lasts 6 months or more. At the end of this period, you can begin finishing work inside the building and arranging the bath.

P.S. And for dessert, I suggest watching a video clip: Building a bath from a bar

Those who intend to build a sauna or a bath from a bar on their own, and even from scratch, need to solve many problems in stages. Choose a project and material, study the video and tips for building a log house with my own hands. detailed instructions is also in this article.

Beam for a bath: how to choose

Determining what to build a bath from, it is no coincidence that many owners prefer timber. The following characteristics testify in its favor:

• the ability to retain heat well;
• aesthetics;
• minimum shrinkage;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

As in a log cabin, in a log sauna it smells of wood, resins - like in an old Russian steam room. This has a beneficial effect on the health of those who take bath procedures. At the same time, it is cheaper and faster to build such a structure than its counterpart from logs: a log house can be installed immediately on the foundation, and finishing can be carried out without waiting for a long shrinkage.

Perhaps, the most significant drawbacks of the timber are only two: a tendency to rot and a high fire hazard.

Advice. The beam can be glued and profiled. The first is more expensive, but at the same time it is durable and does not deform. Profiled timber is, in fact, a log that has been given a certain shape. Thanks to the presence of spikes and grooves, it is easier to connect it. But the shrinkage of such log cabins can take quite a long time.

The choice of material is a more than responsible task. It is believed that wood that is cut down between December and March is most suitable for construction. According to all the rules, it is stored on a substrate and dried for about a month under conditions natural ventilation. When buying timber or getting it from your own stocks, pay attention to the following nuances:

1. The presence of cracks is a serious defect. Even small gaps will expand over time, causing the wood to rot.
2. Small holes are a sign that bugs have settled in the timber.
3. Blue spots indicate that the material has begun to rot. Naturally, it is not suitable for construction.

Foundation design and pouring

What should be the bath - depends only on the preferences of its owner. Projects of buildings with a terrace are convenient if after a steam room you like barbecue gatherings on fresh air. In the bath with an attic, you can equip an additional rest room and accommodate guests there. But glazed veranda is a great place for summer kitchen or billiard room.

If you are planning to build a two-story building, make a solid strip foundation. Otherwise, you can get by with a simpler columnar one. The tape is laid to a depth of at least 0.5 m.

Technology:

1. After digging a ditch, pour sand or gravel on its bottom (layer thickness - 15 cm).
2. Make a wooden formwork.
3. Equip a frame of reinforcement inside.
4. Make a concrete pour.

For column foundation:

1. Dig holes up to 40 cm deep along the perimeter, as well as in the corners of the future bath. The distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
2. In each of the ditches, make a 15 cm sand cushion.
3. Install brick posts in the pits. Their height is about 0.5 m.
4. When laying the foundation for greater strength, reinforce the pillars.

Attention! In any case, do not forget about waterproofing. To do this, apply softened bitumen to the surface of the foundation and cover it with a layer of roofing material. When everything has cooled down, repeat the same thing again.

Walling. Connecting a beam in the corners: methods

For the first row (crown) of the bath experienced craftsmen it is recommended to take a bar with a section of 20 x 20. For all other crowns, a material with parameters of 15 x 15 is suitable. The main thing is that the length of all specimens is the same. The construction of the walls consists of the following stages:

• Laying slats on the foundation at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. This is additional insulation for the beam. Reiki should have a thickness of no more than 0.15 cm and be treated with an antiseptic.
• The location of the first row of bars. They should first be treated with a special antiseptic solution or ordinary machine oil. Before connecting, make sure that the surface is strictly horizontal. Use a level for this.
  3. Fastening the beams of the first row and filling the space between the slats with mounting foam.

Advice. For the first crown (row of a log house), take a larch or oak timber. These breeds tolerate moisture well.

• Laying on top of the first crown of an insulating layer, for example, from tow or moss. This is true for all subsequent rows of bars.
• Location and fixation of the second crown. For connection, use wooden dowels or metal pins. Holes must be pre-drilled for them. If you take nails, those that can be “drowned” in wood are better, because on the surface the caps rust and cause the timber to rot.
• Laying the remaining rows. You don't need to fit them closely. It is better not to connect the last two crowns, because you will have to remove them during the installation of the roof.

The bars can be connected to each other longitudinally, as well as at the corners. The first option is used when the specimens are too short in order to lay them out along the entire length of the wall (for example, a 4-meter beam is used for a 6 x 6 bath). In other cases, you can use corner connection. It happens with the remainder, when the protruding parts of the timber remain in the corners, and without it.

The first method is considered more reliable and much more attractive from a design point of view. It has 3 mounting options:

• 1-sided;
• 2-sided;
• 4-sided.

The number indicates the number of grooves that are cut in the timber. An optimal connection is obtained as a result of 4-way coupling, although this work is the most laborious. Fastening without residue, which is done end-to-end, on dowels or on spikes, is considered less reliable for a bath, so it is better not to use it.

How to make windows and doors in the bath. roof construction

When laying the bars, you can make a small gap in the rows - where windows and doors are planned. After the frame is ready and time will pass for shrinkage, cut openings with a chainsaw. But there is another option: to make windows and a door at once, during the construction process. To do this, you will need special grooves and specimens of bars with an end cut. The second method requires more time, and as a result of shrinkage finished windows and doors can warp.

The roof on the bath can be shed - quickly and inexpensively. It is mounted from transverse logs, which are assembled at an angle. In this case, precipitation will not linger on the roof. gable roof – a good option if you need to equip an attic or a rest room under it. Installation of rafters and coverings from battens is more convenient to do on the ground, and then put the finished structure on a log house. You can cover it with a metal tile, roofing material or ondulin.

Advice. Miscellaneous materials for roofing are optimal for various angles of inclination. For example, 5 ° is suitable for roofing material, and 30 ° for ondulin. Consider this feature when choosing a cover.

Do-it-yourself log bath: video

Construction of a bath from a bar: photo