Glass blocks on what to lay. How to install glass blocks. Cement mortar for laying glass blocks

Laying glass blocks is possible in three ways: traditional, using modular systems and using the BlocLock system.

The first is universal, suitable for indoor and outdoor use, allowing the construction of structures of any size and shape, however, the use of cement mortar, adhesive for ceramic tiles and glass requires skill.

The other two methods are based on the use of special modular systems for installing blocks or rails to which they are glued. These technologies make it possible to stack elements from glass blocks without experience and knowledge in construction.

Indoors, glass blocks are laid at the finishing stage, after floor screeding and wall plastering, but before finishing coatings.

When used outside, glass blocks are laid when the supporting structure is completed, and if a separate element is created, then after the foundation has hardened (after 28 days).

With the first method of laying, an accurate calculation of the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the glass block structure will be required so that an integer number of products can fit in each row and 10 mm is left for seams between them.

With other methods, the accuracy of the masonry is ensured by the structural elements on which the blocks are installed.

The surface prepared for installation must always be absolutely flat and horizontal.

Every third or fourth horizontal and vertical rows are reinforced with steel rods with a diameter of 4-8 mm (stainless steel or with an anti-corrosion coating).

The fittings must be in the thickness of the solution and not in contact with the glass.

The wall of glass blocks must be completely independent of the supporting structures adjacent to it.

In the first installation method, the connection of the transparent section with the main bearing wall is made only through sliding gaskets, the anchors are fixed freely. The adjunction of a glass block partition to the ceiling and floor must be performed using elastic gaskets. Modular systems are fixed rigidly.

Seams between glass blocks do not exceed 10 mm.

When laying on the mortar, special mounting crosses made of plastic are used, which help to correctly set each element. Without crosses, if the mortar dries unevenly, the wall may warp.

Materials and tools (per 1 m2 of construction)

Materials (seam - 10 mm):

Glass blocks 190×190×80 mm - 25 pcs.
Glass blocks 190×90×80 - 50 pcs.
Glass blocks 240×240×80 mm - 16 pcs.
Glue (for glass blocks or ceramic tiles) - 25 kg.
Mounting crosses - 36 pcs.
Stainless steel fittings with a diameter of 6-8 mm - 6-8 m.
Joint compensators (cork, felt, bitumen or PVC tape) - 1-4 m, depending on the presence of adjoining structures.

Tools:

Trowel (for applying mortar).
Level and plumb (to check the horizontal and vertical position of the structures being built and adjacent to it).
Wooden slats (for setting the boundaries of the partition on the base).
Rubber mallet (for leveling blocks).
Knife, grout, sponge (for cutting off the protruding parts of the crosses, decorating the seams, cleaning the surface).

The surface of the base is cleaned of dust and grease and two wooden slats are laid on it to fix the direction of laying the blocks.

Laying glass blocks on mortar: a master class

An elastic compensating material is placed on the base between the rails. On the support (to which the glass blocks are attached), holes are made for reinforcement. A layer of mortar or glue about 30 mm thick is applied over the entire length of the base.

Installation of blocks starts from the wall (or other adjacent element), moving horizontally. On the first block in the bottom row, the mortar is applied to the side facing the wall and laid, leaving a seam 10 mm thick.

When installing the second block, the mixture is applied to the side facing the previous one. A mounting cross is inserted between the blocks in the upper part. Laying continues to the end of the row, the second row is mounted in the same way.

If the solution gets on the front side, it is immediately removed (when chipping off the dried cement, you can scratch the block).

The third row of masonry is reinforced with reinforcement. Two rods are placed directly on the mounting crosses, inserted into the holes in the adjoining wall, fixed with mortar (if there is no wall, the reinforcement will end flush with the extreme blocks).

After each third row, the verticality of the masonry is checked with a plumb line and the installation is stopped for 1 hour when working with glue and for 1 day - with a cement-sand mortar. This is necessary for the composition to seize (it dries slowly on glass).

After the laying is completed and the mortar has dried, the outer plates of the mounting crosses are removed, the protective film is removed from the glass blocks.

Then a grout mixture is applied to the seams, after it has set, the surface is leveled and the blocks are cleaned.

Cement and glue stains are removed with hydrochloric or acetic acid (alkalis, solvents, hydrofluoric acid cannot be used).

To give waterproof qualities to the seams, they are treated with a water repellent.

How to install glass block partitions: using modular systems

This assembly method is for indoor use only. The module is a lattice made of wood, plastic or MDF with cells calculated according to the size of the glass block.

Usually the module contains no more than 10 cells vertically and 2-4 horizontally. For a longer wall, several modules are purchased.

The maximum allowable dimensions of a structure based on a modular system are 4 × 4 m, with a larger size, metal profiles are mounted between its parts.

The system is fixed with screws to the floor, walls and ceiling. Then the cells are filled with glass blocks, fixing them with rubber tabs (which make it easy to remove and replace the blocks) or sealant (it is used if it is necessary to improve the soundproofing qualities of the structure).

The frame frame takes on all the loads, protecting the glass block from them, allows you to increase the speed of erection, make the structure even and vertical.

Partitions from glass blocks on the BlocLock system

This installation method is also intended for interior work. It is based on the use of plastic guides, equal in width to the thickness of the side wall of the block. The guides have different sizes: long ones correspond to the length of the structure, short ones - to the side of the block.

The system uses special glass blocks - with a profile that fits the profile of the guides and is designed for a butt joint 2-5 mm wide.

Starting installation, the first, long guide is glued to a horizontal base.

Then glass blocks are glued onto it, joining them together in a row through short guides and fixing them with glue.

Having laid out the row completely, the next long guide is glued on top of it and similarly assembled further. This method allows you to create a smooth, strictly vertical, neat wall.

Reinforcement is not provided, and the height of the structure should not exceed 2 m.

The kit, including glue for connecting the elements of the system, is purchased at the store, choosing the number of blocks and guides necessary for the intended design.

Special cases when installing glass blocks

From glass blocks, you can lay out a curvilinear structure. When laying from whole blocks, the minimum radius of curvature is 5 m, with a smaller radius, it is better to use halves of glass blocks.

On the inside, the width of the seam is left 10 mm, on the outside it will be larger. A template is fixed on the base (for example, from foam or thick cardboard), fixing the direction along which the wall is laid out. The reinforcement is bent, also using a template.

It is permissible to use rods with a minimum diameter (this will not affect the strength of the masonry, since curved structures are more stable than straight ones).

Sometimes it is necessary to make a door in a glass block wall. Its box is attached to a U-shaped metal frame with a U-shaped profile, firmly fixed to the supporting structures.

Glass blocks are laid out around the frame, using a shock-absorbing pad with a thickness of at least 10 mm at the junction. Similarly, a window is built into such a wall.

In the construction of glass blocks, you can use a door frame with a width that is a multiple of 20 cm - 60, 80, 100, 120 cm.

It is impossible to hang a door that is too heavy (for example, a metal one), it is necessary to exclude sharp blows when slamming shut by installing a braking device for the door leaf.

However, given the complexity of installing and operating a door surrounded by glass, if possible, it is better to make it in an ordinary wall.

Cement or frame?

We wrote about how to decorate your house with modern glass blocks in the article "". This time we will talk about the features of mounting blocks. How to lay out a wall or partition from them? Which of the installation methods is optimal in a particular case? What are the important nuances to keep in mind when planning this work? Let's start with the planning and preparation phase. Before starting work, you need to be sure that the choice in favor of glass blocks was the right one.

What should you know when planning to use glass blocks in your home?

1. It is undesirable to build a wall with doors from glass blocks. An opening in the glass block wall may be present, but the doors should not be fixed. It is also impossible to mount window systems in a glass block wall.

2. Of course, a wall made of glass blocks cannot be load-bearing.

3. Glass blocks have excellent sound insulation. Do not be afraid that the glass block wall separating the two rooms will only perform a decorative function.

4. Glass blocks are also a heat-saving material. They can glaze large window openings - and the room will be warm (just like with modern plastic double-glazed windows).

5. Glass blocks - a unique material that is both building and finishing. This is the special convenience of their use. He erected a wall and you can no longer think about anything: neither about putty, nor about painting, nor about cladding. This will save you money, effort and energy.

6. It is undesirable to create surfaces of more than 15 square meters from glass blocks. m.

What do you need to know before starting work?

1. The surfaces to which the glass block wall or partition will adjoin must be prepared (at the junction). Namely, clean from the old finish, wash, let dry, primed.

2. Glass blocks are sold, as a rule, covered with a protective film. It is not recommended to remove the film until the installation is completed in order to avoid damage to the surface of the blocks, the appearance of scratches, stains from glue and cement, etc.

If the blocks were sold without a film, you can protect them yourself - for example, pasting the front surfaces of the blocks with masking tape.

Ways of laying glass blocks

There are two main methods of mounting glass blocks: cement and frame. The frame method creates very flimsy, not very reliable structures. Therefore, this method should be adopted only for the construction of small partitions in residential premises.

If there is a need for a large partition, for glazing window openings and for creating glass walls in wet rooms, the choice should be made in favor of the "cement" method.

Installation of glass blocks on cement

For work, use cement or tile adhesive. The cement must be of high quality, homogeneous, without large grains of sand (they can scratch the glass if they get on the glass block). Tile adhesive is preferred.

In addition to cement or glue, you will need special spacer crosses and metal rods (section 4-6 mm).

Spacer crosses help to leave a fixed distance between the blocks, so that the surface of the glass blocks is smooth. In addition, crosses make the wall stiffer. Metal rods are needed for reinforcement, that is, strengthening the glass block wall.

After laying a row of glass blocks, a new layer of glue is applied and a metal rod is laid horizontally, after which a second row of blocks is laid. The rods are also laid vertically if the construction area is large enough. Some experts recommend reinforcing not all rows, but only every third.

Spacer crosses are installed at the joints between glass blocks. The "hats" of the crosses remain outside. After the cement has completely dried, these protruding plates must be chipped off. The crosses themselves remain inside the wall, making it stronger.

The building level should always be nearby. With it, you should constantly monitor the evenness of the horizontal and vertical rows.

It is not recommended to lay more than three horizontal rows of glass blocks at a time. They laid out a site three blocks high - they paused. If the installation of glass blocks is carried out with tile adhesive, work can be stopped for a couple of hours, and then continued. If glass blocks are laid on cement, you will have to wait a day. Why is a pause necessary? If you go above three rows, at some point the structure may “float” or even fall apart. Be sure to take breaks!

If the glass block structure is adjacent to other surfaces, then the “seam” between them should be no more than one centimeter.

By the way, about the "seams" or joints. If glass blocks were placed on cement, after it has completely dried, the seams can be rubbed with tiled grout of the desired color. But it's even easier to buy colored cement/glue and put glass blocks on it. At the same time, the joints must immediately be made neat, removing excess cement, and then after drying, no additional treatments will be required.

After laying all the glass blocks, the structure should dry well. This should take 10-15 days. And only after this time, you can start grouting the interblock joints.

Frame method of installing glass blocks

This method of mounting glass blocks is suitable for creating small lightweight structures - for example, semi-partitions for zoning rooms. Soundproofing qualities will be significantly lower than with the cement laying method. Strength indicators are also not comparable.

The advantage of this method is aesthetics (the blocks seem to be framed), the cleanliness of the work and the possibility of replacing single blocks.

The frame is made of wood (sanded boards). Perform it to order - for example, in carpentry workshops. The frame is a construction with equal cells and resembles or a lattice. Cells correspond to the sizes of glass blocks.

Blocks are inserted into cells and strengthened. To do this, use rubber gaskets, seals or silicone sealants. Sealants are more often used - this strengthens the structure, since the blocks are literally glued into the cells. However, there is a downside here: if the block is installed with a rubber gasket, it can be easily removed if necessary, in order, for example, to replace a cracked block. If it is glued with a sealant, it will be more difficult to remove it so as not to damage the entire structure.

Before filling with glass blocks, the frame-lattice must be fixed by attaching it with dowels or anchors to the main surfaces - the floor, the load-bearing wall, the ceiling.

If you want to give the frame a certain color, you need to paint it in advance, before filling it with glass blocks.

The work is quite easy, but it must be done carefully, being careful, remembering that glass is a fragile material.

Similarly, the installation of glass blocks in the wall. In the wall, you need to create a cell for the glass block and insert it, securing it with a rubber seal or sealant.

Manufacturers of glass blocks also produce ready-made modules for fixing blocks. A frame is assembled from modules. Moreover, it is assembled simultaneously with the installation of blocks. The modules themselves are made not only from wood, but also from PVC.

Such modular systems for mounting glass blocks should be asked in the same stores that sell this material. Working with ready-made modules is quite simple - it is similar to assembling a constructor. It must be remembered that the design also turns out to be very fragile: it is impossible to glaze the window with this method, but it is possible to fence off the sofa from the bed.

Creating a curved glass block wall

Rounded walls can be built from cement. At the same time, the reinforcing rods have to be bent to the shape of the future wall, which is not so easy. To facilitate the process, thinner metal rods are used than when building straight walls.

Spacer crosses are inserted between blocks only inside the rounding. Outside, the seams remain the same, and their size depends on the radius of curvature. There is a discrepancy in the size of the seams inside and outside the rounding. This cannot be avoided if solid glass blocks are mounted.

Reduce the size of the joints in the rounded wall allows use of "half" glass blocks. And the smaller the radius of curvature, the more desirable the use of narrow blocks.

Some foreign manufacturers of glass blocks offer special systems for the construction of rounded walls. But this is still the same frame mounting method, which is not suitable for creating a strong, strong, waterproof wall. But you can create a light rounded partition. Ask for such systems in stores selling glass blocks.

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The purchase of decorative glass blocks is over, now you need to properly lay the glass blocks. But the question arises: “How to lay glass blocks?”. In this article we will tell you how to install glass blocks and what is the cost of such installation.

Features of laying glass blocks

Before proceeding with the direct installation of glass blocks, it is necessary to consider some features of working with them:

glass blocks

1) Walls and partitions made of glass blocks cannot be installed as load-bearing supports, because glass structures perform only the following functions: decorative, heat and noise insulating and protect against dust.

2) The thickness of the glass block must be at least 7 cm, but not more than 10 cm.

3) The weight of the glass block varies from 2.4 to 4.3 kg.

Preparation for the installation of glass blocks

Before laying glass blocks, it is important not to forget to prepare everything necessary tools:
Building level for creating even rows of glass blocks,
measuring tape,
Pencil and line for marking,
Bulgarian for cutting unnecessary reinforcing rods,
Foam rubber or rubber trowel for grouting,
Bucket for making glue for glass blocks,
Construction trowel for laying out a solution of glue,
Sponges for cleaning already erected glass blocks,
Electric drill for drilling slots for rods in wooden bases,
Mixer for mixing the adhesive solution,
Perforator for drilling in brick and concrete surfaces,
Stepladder, if the glass block structure is high,
Spatula for removing excess solution from the glue,
Spatula for removing old material,
silicone sealant gun
Spatula for embroidering seams between glass blocks,
Hammer to create a smooth surface of the blocks,
Dry cloth for cleaning and finishing glass blocks.

Gallery of photos of tools for laying glass blocks

5. Using a level, a number of glass blocks are leveled.

6. A fixing profile made of metal or wood is attached to the wall structure and between the glass block rows and the blocks are laid.

7. The glass block has been erected. Apply grout for cracks (seams) between block tiles.

Applying grout to a glass block structure

8. Remove excess grout with a sponge, cleaning the surfaces of glass blocks.

This is the general course of glass block installation, but there are three types of glass block installation in total. Read more about this in the article on our website "Glass blocks with your own hands."

Laying glass blocks VIDEO can also be viewed here: http://www.w-interior.ru/article.php?id=ykladka_stekloblokov

Laying glass blocks - the price of work

The cost of laying glass blocks is - from 2500 rubles. up to 17 thousand rubles per sq. m.

The cost of installation varies depending on the number of blocks, their size, color scheme, manufacturing countries, and, of course, the complexity of the installation itself.

You can also buy crosses for glass blocks at a different price. It depends on their specific sizes and producing countries:

2, 3 or 5 mm - 22 rubles. (Italy)

Installation of spacer crosses

8 mm - 25 rubles. (Italy)

5 mm - 9 rubles. (Czech)

10 mm - 20 rubles. (Czech)

From 2 to 5 mm - about 16 rubles. (Russia)

10 mm - 14 rubles. (Russia)

Chinese-made crosses can be purchased from 12 rubles. etc.

Glass blocks are used not only for finishing industrial-type buildings, they are used in modern interiors, they perform various decorative inserts or completely walls. The material is made of glass mass, it turns out to be transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. Inside the blocks are hollow, the thickness of the glass reaches 7 millimeters. With the help of glass blocks of a modern look, you can create an original interior, they are used to create columns, partitions, make wall and ceiling inserts.

Characteristics of glass blocks

Glass blocks can have different colors and textures, they are transparent or multi-colored, matte and decorative type, that is, with patterns. The material can have a different shape, rectangular square, triangular, also glass blocks are end, corner or in the form of columns.

Thanks to the glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-flammable, and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this the material is considered energy-saving, and it also performs thermal insulation functions. Glass block is in good contact with water, so it can be used for finishing swimming pools and wet rooms.

Also, the glass block has a high rate of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and is not picky about cleaning. If damage occurs to one block, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire surface, it is enough to replace the element or a separate section.

Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures; a special material is also made that can withstand a significant load.

The surface of this material does not require further finishing, such as plastering, painting or wallpapering. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed with plain water or various glass cleaners.

Ways of laying glass blocks

Consider how to lay glass blocks. The material can be laid in three ways. The first method is laborious, and resembles brickwork. First, the site of the proposed structure is cleaned of contamination, after which the adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect glass blocks to each other, you can use special compounds or adhesive mixtures that are suitable for ceramics.

Then two rods are laid on the floor surface, which are made of stainless steel, they serve as a reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall where the ends of the rods are inserted. After that, holes are made in the floor, and the rods are fixed vertically. Blocks are laid according to the type of brick laying, the seams must be embroidered, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left to dry for up to ten days, and then the seams are rubbed with a special compound to match the color of the blocks.

In the second method, laying is carried out using a solution, so that the distance between the blocks is the same, special crosses are used. First, the first row is laid using a building-type level and beacons, crosses are placed between the glass blocks, and rods that serve as reinforcing material. Using a spatula, a solution is smeared on the surface of the laid row and the side part, then the block is pressed against the crosses. Excess mortar is removed from all joints, and after drying, grouting is performed. At the final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed with a sponge.

The third method of laying occurs using a special frame, while cement-type solutions are not used. First, a frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the dimensions of the glass block. The finished frame is fixed from all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor and walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and it is fixed using special inserts made of rubber or sealant. By using rubber spacers, the blocks can be easily pulled out and swapped if necessary. The frame can be of any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.

The frame can be made not only from plastic or wood, aluminum or soft polyurethane is also taken for its manufacture. Such walls will not have high sound insulation, they are used only as decorative elements.

What is the texture of glass blocks?

Glass blocks may differ in appearance. Their textured surface can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte on the inside or outside, and light-guiding, namely, embossed on the inside.

In order to increase light transmission, the ends of the blocks can be covered with amalgam. End faces of glass blocks of euro, cover with paint of white color. Thus, after their installation, the solution will remain invisible. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.

Advantages of glass blocks

The material is durable and reliable, resistant to moisture, low temperature, and fire.
The glass block has a high light transmission function, thanks to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
With this material, you can give the interior an original design.
Glass blocks can have different sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine the material and get an unusual surface.
Due to the tightness, the interior is not contaminated, and the outer surface is easy to clean with a sponge.
The material has high rates of thermal and sound insulation, it is able to absorb noise, is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and sub-zero temperatures.
The surface made of glass blocks does not require further finishing.

Adhesive method of laying glass blocks

The block located from the edge is fixed on the guide horizontally.
To connect vertical surfaces, special dividing strips are used.
Before starting laying the second row, the guide is again installed horizontally, it is attached to the wall.
Glue can harden both quickly and for a long period, it depends on its type.
At the end, all joints are grouted with the required color, and then the blocks are washed away from the solution that has fallen on them.

Laying glass blocks on cement mortar

The solution must be spread not only on a horizontal surface, but also on vertical walls.
With the help of the level of the building type, the evenness of the laying is measured.
In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement is performed with rods.
After the solution hardens, the seams are overwritten with the required color, and the surface is washed away from contamination.

Basic rules for laying glass blocks

The solution used when laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product can be scratched.
As soon as the solution dries a little, the dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
If the material is smeared with grout, then it must be removed wet until the stains have dried. To do this, use acetic acid.
When laying matte glass blocks, the protective film is removed after all joints are grouted.
The reinforcing rod should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters.
Laying installation of glass blocks

The rods are placed vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly become unusable, that is, it will corrode due to a thin layer of solution.
At one time, it is possible to lay glass blocks in no more than three rows so that the structure does not move or bend. Glass blocks can be knocked out with a rubber mallet.
If external walls are being laid, then their area should not exceed 15 m2, otherwise the lower row of blocks may burst due to significant weight.
Since built-in surfaces are made of glass blocks, some kind of support must be located along their edges.
In the manufacture of the frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, the tolerance is 2 mm. The void on top is filled with sealant or a rubber gasket is laid.

With the help of glass blocks, you can get an original surface, their installation does not require special knowledge, you can do it yourself. The material is easy to care for, and has a number of advantages, it is distinguished by original decor in the interior.

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Hi all! For the construction of partitions indoors today, glass blocks are increasingly used. Such designs look aesthetically pleasing and stylish, they transmit light and therefore do not visually clutter up the space, performing the function of zoning. Another plus of the material is absolute resistance to moisture and aggressive environments, and the installation of glass blocks is not very difficult work. And here is how to properly stack glass blocks, read below.

Tools and materials

To install glass blocks, you will need:

tape measure, building level, marking pencil, building square;
special crosses for laying glass blocks and plastic wedges for leveling the floor;
a grinder or wire cutters (for trimming crosses, cutting rebar), an electric drill, 6 mm tile or concrete drills and a whisk;
white tile adhesive, fiberglass fittings with a diameter of 6 mm, a container for preparing glue;
medium trowel, beta-contact primer, masking tape, sponge and quick-setting glass adhesive;
glass block and end glass decorative strips.

Preparatory work

First of all, you should decide on the size of the partition. Please note that its width and height will depend on the dimensions of the selected blocks, since the elements cannot be cut to size. The standard glass block format is 19x19x8 cm or 24x24x8 cm, but manufacturers may offer other options. The thickness of the glass block usually varies between 7-10 cm. In addition to solid blocks, a number of manufacturers also offer "halves" - blocks half the width of the standard one.

The market offers a wide range of colorless and colored glass blocks, smooth and with a relief surface, as well as elements with decorative filling. When buying, make sure that the blocks are of the same size, check for cracks, chips and scratches.

Before starting work, lay out the future partition on the floor if you decide to use blocks with different decorative designs. Choose the appropriate option for the location of decorative elements and draw a diagram so that you don’t confuse anything later during installation.

At the preliminary stage, markings should be made on the wall and floor. Be sure to check the verticality of the lines. Stick masking tape on both sides along the markings, if there is a fragile decorative finish (paint, wallpaper) on the wall, then inside the resulting strip, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the glass block, it is better to remove it, but the wall tiles and flooring do not need to be touched. The gap between the strips of masking tape is primed with "beta contact" to ensure the necessary adhesion with the tile adhesive. Laying of glass blocks is carried out after the primer has completely dried.

Instructions for laying glass blocks

Mix the adhesive solution according to the manufacturer's instructions using a drill with a whisk attachment. Part of the crosses for glass blocks, oriented on all 4 sides, cut in such a way that they can be installed close to the wall and on the floor.

The technology of laying glass blocks requires especially careful approach to the installation of the first block adjacent to the wall. It is set using a building square and a level. The glass block must be located strictly vertically, strictly at 90 ° to the wall, otherwise the geometry of the entire partition will be violated.

The first block is installed using trimmed crosses. A reinforcement bar is placed on it to mark the place on the wall where the hole for the reinforcement fasteners will be made. The same mark is made on the floor, under the reinforcing bar, which will be located vertically. Then the second block of the horizontal row is set (using cut crosses) and a second mark is made on the floor for reinforcement.

Then remove the blocks and drill holes as deep as the thickness of the tiles, or about 5 to 6 mm if the holes are drilled directly into the concrete wall. A restrictive sleeve made of electrical tape can be wound on the drill. Dust from drilling sweep away or remove with a vacuum cleaner.

Next, apply a bulk layer of the prepared adhesive on the floor and wall with a spatula, the same adhesive is applied to the two sides of the block, which will be adjacent to the wall and floor. A trimmed cross is installed near the wall, the first block is placed and leveled. If necessary, wedges are placed under the block to level the floor.

A layer of glue is applied to the top and side ends of the installed block. Also, glue with a spatula is applied to the floor in the place where the second block will be installed, and on two ends of the second block. Then a vertical reinforcement bar is inserted into the prepared hole in the floor and the second block is installed, right next to the first. Don't forget to put crosses under it. Next, a horizontal reinforcement bar is inserted into the hole in the wall, which lies on the first two blocks.

Check the location of the second block with a level, remove excess glue near the floor and wall with a spatula, you can also use a damp sponge. Apply glue to the horizontal surface of the second block, fixing the rebar. Further, according to the same principle, the third block of the lower row is placed - after installing the second vertical reinforcing bar.

The next stage is the preliminary installation of the first block of the second row (on crosses) in order to mark the location of the hole for horizontal reinforcement. Remove the block, cover the surface of the bottom block with cardboard and drill a hole in the wall. Carefully remove the cardboard with dust and mount the block, applying glue to its bottom surface and the end adjacent to the wall, as well as to the wall surface itself.

Mount the entire lower row of blocks to the end (preliminarily marking and making holes for vertical reinforcement), as well as the second horizontal row. Use crosses and check the verticality and horizontality of the structure. If necessary, use plastic wedges to level the bottom row.

When the entire structure is laid out, carefully remove excess glue and its traces on the surface of the blocks with a damp sponge. After the adhesive has completely dried, it is necessary to break out the outer petals of the crosses - the rods that set the thickness of the seam remain embedded in the masonry.

Note! It is recommended to lay out no more than 5 - 6 rows of glass blocks at one run in order to avoid increased load on the structure before the adhesive sets. You can continue work on the construction of the partition the next day.

Do-it-yourself glass block laying

Verticality and horizontality are checked after installation of each row.

At the final stage, the open side end and the upper surface of the glass block partition are closed with decorative glass strips of a suitable width. They are attached with fast setting glass adhesive. During the setting of the glue, the strips can be fixed with paper tape.

Then the masonry seams must be carefully filled with grout. After it hardens, the glass block partition is completely ready.

About installation

Instructions for installation (laying) of glass blocks

according to the traditional laying pattern using the example of laying SEVES / VETROARREDO / BASIC blocks (vertical wall construction)

Previously, the installation of glass blocks was carried out using a conventional masonry cement mortar with or without the addition of coloring pigments, the addition of PVA glue for plasticity, or using ceramic tile / porcelain stoneware glue. However, after the advent of adhesive for glass blocks and glass mosaics, we would recommend using it. This dry mortar contains all the necessary components for laying glass blocks (plasticizers, brighteners, etc.) and is freely sold in hardware stores. In extreme cases, use a dry mix for laying ceramic tiles to prepare the adhesive solution.

First of all, it should be taken into account that the construction of glass blocks can only serve as an attached partition, and not as a load-bearing one. That is, it is strictly forbidden to mount any ceilings, fasteners for furniture or heavy interior items on glass blocks!

The fittings to give strength to the glass wall should be made of stainless steel or coated with an anti-corrosion compound. It should also be ensured that when laying it does not come into contact with the glass. Diameter 6-8 mm.

Select the grout and glue according to the color of the glass blocks. Choose moisture-resistant grades of grout.

A glass block structure is not recommended to be erected more than four rows in height per day in order to avoid its curvature due to subsidence on the unset mortar. This rule is best observed even when using plastic mounting crosses and special mounting glue. Glue has a much shorter curing time than cement mortar, but this does not prevent the risk of accidental mechanical impacts on a still insufficiently strong structure during operation.

If it is necessary to erect a structure with an area of more than 15 sq.m. it is necessary to provide for the division of the overall structure into parts horizontally and, if necessary, also vertically. In this case, the length of one section in any case should not exceed 7.5 m, and the height should not exceed 6 meters. Sections must be supported by load-bearing steel studs securely attached to the main walls, floor and ceiling, with expansion joints.

After laying out a part of the glass blocks, do not forget to timely remove excess mortar from the surface of the glass blocks before it hardens and clean the seams for their subsequent grouting.

Material consumption:

Consumption of crosses calculate according to the scheme in the figure (enlarge the picture with a mouse click)

Consumption of glass blocks 19x19x8 cm with a seam of 16 mm - 23 pieces per square meter. With a seam of 10 mm - 25 pcs. per sq. m.

Consumption of glass blocks 19x9x8 cm with a seam of 16 mm - 46 pieces per square meter. With a seam of 10 mm - 50 pcs. per sq. m.

Consumption of mortar or glue- 25 kg. per square meter.

metal consumption. reinforcement 6-8 mm/d- 12 pm meters per sq. meter.

Consumption of joint expansion joints(PVC tape, mounting foam, etc.) - based on the length and height of the masonry walls.

Consumption of grout for joints- based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe masonry.

Beginning of work:

Use a spirit level to check that the support/fixing surface is horizontal and vertical. Clean contact surfaces. Outline the overall dimensions of the wall (thickness, length and height). With the help of two wooden slats, outline the boundaries of the base of the wall. At a distance of approximately 60 - 80 cm, install movable squares to check the verticality of the wall.

Laying:

Take the first glass block and apply the mortar on one side with a trowel. If the glass blocks are covered with a protective film, then it must be removed not with laying, but at the end. Lay the block against the wall, aligning it with the mortar. In this case, the side with the mixture is laid on the expansion joint, while maintaining a distance of about 1 cm from it. Fill the space created with the mixture.

Take the next block and repeat the above steps. In this case, the block is laid with the side with the applied mixture to the previously laid block. Install the first mounting plastic cross between the two blocks. Repeat the operation of laying glass blocks and crosses to the end of the row.

Install the first stainless steel rod in a horizontal position; in this case, the base of the rod is placed in a previously made hole in the wall. After installing the rod, fill the hole with material that eliminates possible displacements. The rod is installed directly on the plastic mounting crosses. At the end of the row, check the verticality and horizontality of the wall. Provide for the installation of reinforcing bars for both horizontal and vertical gaps, avoiding their contact with glass. If the laying is carried out on a cement mortar, then it is not recommended to lay out more than three rows of glass blocks per day in order to avoid uneven surfaces of the structure. The solution should set. Install an expansion joint near the ceiling before laying the last row. Before curing, remove excess mixture between glass blocks, between glass blocks and perimeter structures.

To close wide and high openings with glass blocks, erecting large-area structures, it is better to additionally use side steel U-shaped holders. They will give the glass wall greater strength. When using side holders, do not forget about the need to leave a compensation layer of at least 1 cm.

How to lay glass blocks

With a masonry area of less than 4 sq.m. holders are not needed.

Finishing, polishing, protection:

Before starting plastering work, check that the mortar has dried. Remove the outer plates of the plastic mounting crosses with a tool that does not scratch the glass surface. Remove the protective film from the glass blocks, if present.

Apply the grout with a soft grout, taking care to evenly fill the gaps. Wait for the mixture to set and start thinner grouting with a damp and clean sponge. While the grout is still damp, start cleaning individual panes using a clean and damp sponge or soft cloth. In this case, it is necessary to rinse them often in clean water and try not to scratch the glass.

Use diluted hydrochloric acid (eg hydrochloric acid, anti-lime or similar agents) or acetic acid (eg white wine vinegar) to remove possible streaks or grout stains that have hardened on the glass blocks. At the same time, make sure that the solution does not get on the seams, and take the necessary personal safety measures.

Do not use oily solvents, hydrofluoric acid or solutions with a high alkali content (such as baking soda or the like) for cleaning. After cleaning the wall and completely drying it, seal the perimeter points of contact with the wall with a suitable material to prevent water penetration.

For the same reasons, protect the wall from water penetration by applying a silicone-based waterproofing liquid to the gaps. These fluids are completely transparent and provide another guarantee for the long life of the glass block surface.

Note: when laying glass blocks with a satin surface, the protective film should only be removed at the time of grouting. Possible adhesive residue from the film can be removed with warm water and a small amount of soap suds. If they are difficult to remove, it is possible to apply acetone or acetylene trichloride using a non-abrasive sponge. With regard to the use of silicone-based waterproofing mastics and sealants, carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Connection of glass blocks with a door:

In a shower or other place where it is necessary to install an entrance in a glass structure, U-shaped metal profiles should be used to fasten the door on the sides of the contact with the glass blocks.

A shock-absorbing material with a thickness of at least 1 cm must be embedded in the profiles. When laying glass blocks, it is necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions of the doorway. Profiles are pre-attached to the door frame.

To prevent the rough mechanical impact on the glass wall from slamming the door, be sure to install a braking device for the door leaf.

To prevent damage to the glass surface from impacts with the door handle when the door is opened excessively, be sure to set the lock for the extreme position of the door leaf when opening.

Do not use heavy metal doors for use in case of glass block partition entrance. Glass walls are not intended for constant rough mechanical impact on them.

Laying out curved surfaces:

Non-straight glass block surfaces can be laid out using the Posavelox system from Italian manufacturers. In fact, this is a constructor and you can easily deal with it yourself. We will consider more traditional laying using the same consumables as when laying out straight surfaces.

The main difference between the laying of straight and curved surfaces is that it is necessary to bend the reinforcing bars at the joints of the glass blocks along a given radius. Mounting crosses in this case fix the glass blocks vertically only inside the curve. The outer part fixes only horizontal gaps. With a small radius of curvature, whole glass blocks can be used. When making smoothed right angles or laying out a surface of a small radius, glass blocks are used - halves. This approach avoids ugly wide seams on the outside.

To bend the reinforcement, use any simple template that allows you to give the same given angles. You can use thinner reinforcement than when laying out straight surfaces. This will facilitate the work and will not harm the strength of the structure, since the curved surface itself is more durable and stable.

Frame method of mounting glass blocks:

This method facilitates the construction of glass blocks, makes it easy to disassemble, reconstruct, replace elements. Aesthetically, this design wins in many ways. But there are also disadvantages - this is an impracticality for rooms with high humidity, a more expensive installation.

In accordance with the dimensions of the room and the dimensions of the glass blocks, a frame is made of dry sanded boards. Each glass block has its own cell. The gap should not exceed 2 mm. The frame is glued or screwed onto hardware. Naturally, it is difficult to make such a frame yourself without the necessary carpentry equipment; you will have to order it.

Next, the frame is painted in the color corresponding to the design, dried and screwed to the floor, ceiling and walls on the anchor. Further, a glass block is inserted into each cell (of course, starting from the bottom), fixed with a colorless silicone sealant at the points of contact between the glass block and the frame. After the sealant has dried, the structure is ready for use.

Rubber inserts can also be used instead of sealant. This will make it even easier to replace glass blocks if necessary. On sale you can find ready-made wooden modules (frames) for the installation of glass blocks. Special rubber gaskets are included in the kit.

If you still associate this material with unpresentable glass squares from the recent past, it's time to get to know it better. The scope of modern glass blocks is almost unlimited, the design solutions are practical, beautiful and original, and the installation of glass blocks with your own hands can be done even without special skills in construction.

Features and technical characteristics of glass blocks

Modern glass blocks are a hollow material, which is formed from two glass plates 6-9 mm thick, hermetically connected by pressing. Currently, they are produced on automatic lines, which guarantees the invariance of the qualitative composition of the glass mass and the tightness of the seam. Glass block can be transparent, matte, colored or corrugated. According to their light-optical properties, they are divided into translucent, light-scattering and light-guiding. The thickness of the tiles is 7.5-10 cm, the weight is within 4.3 kg. In addition to standard square and rectangular blocks, they produce triangular, angular, round and half elements. There are also decorative glass blocks. They are presented in a wide range of colors and textures, which allows them to be used in various interior styles.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other material, double-glazed windows have their pros and cons. This, in turn, affects the possibility of their use for certain purposes.
Advantages.
Moisture resistance.
light transmittance.
Soundproofing.
Fire safety.
Frost resistance.
Ease of maintenance.
Does not require additional finishing.

Flaws.

The wall remains intact. It is impossible to drive a nail or screw a screw into it, as well as to carry out an electrical wiring or sewage system inside.
Glass blocks are not processed. They cannot be sawn to fit the required size. All measurements must be calculated in advance.
In a room where the window opening is glazed with glass blocks, it is necessary to carry out additional ventilation systems.

Glass blocks in the interior (hallway)

Options for using glass blocks in the interior

Not so long ago, glass blocks have returned to fashion and have become widely used in interior design. With their help, you can bring to life the most daring and original ideas, it is beneficial to play with light. Glass blocks in the interior of an apartment photo are used to create walls, partitions, windows, furniture and much more.

Glass block wall

During the redevelopment of apartments, it is often necessary to remove or move some walls. This helps to plan the space and create a convenient option for the arrangement of rooms. The glass wall is an original and interesting solution. Visually, it makes the space easier. There is only one downside to this option. By itself, the glass block looks cold and does not contribute to the creation of comfort. Therefore, it is often combined with other materials, such as drywall or using multi-colored elements. This combination allows you to make the interior more interesting.
This type of decor is especially popular in corridors, lobbies and other darkened rooms, where a wall made of glass block will be not only a functional element, but also an additional source of light. Glass blocks will look gorgeous if in the interior of the apartment it is possible to lay out a wall that is rounded as in the photo.

Partitions

Partitions of varying complexity, width and height of glass blocks are often installed in the bathroom. Glass here looks the most harmonious, goes well with tiles, is not afraid of moisture, is not affected by fungus and is easy to clean. Frosted glass blocks allow not only to zone the space and organize the so-called intimate areas, but also to create practical shower cabins of the desired size and shape from glass blocks according to the photo. A small partition can advantageously divide the kitchen into a working and dining area, and the living room into a bedroom and living room.

Window

This way of connecting the outer and inner space through transparent or frosted glass blocks is best suited for baths and pools. As a decorative element, a glass panel is made in the form of a window. If desired, it is decorated with light curtains. Glass blocks in this form are laid not only in the bathroom. Original windows can separate the living room or kitchen from the corridor. When glass blocks are used as windows, openings usually take on the most incredible shapes.

floors

The strength of the material allows the use of glass blocks with a rough texture as a floor covering. Under such transparent areas, usually, a backlight is placed, the effect is impressive.

Do not lay glass blocks on the floor in the bathroom or hallway, where their surface can become dangerously slippery.

Furniture

Modern glass "bricks" are a convenient and practical material for creating furniture designs. In the kitchens, they build islands or bar counters. In the bathroom, you can build a console under the sink, and a narrow wall of glass blocks can smoothly turn into a small functional table. Glass furniture looks spectacular and original, but it will be difficult to rearrange.

Separate decorative elements

Decorating the walls of rooms, glass blocks are often placed pointwise. Recessed into the wall, they do not transmit light, but reflect it very beautifully. One tile is placed on an approximate area of 1 m2. The options for using the material are limited only by the imagination of the designer. Glass tiles make out a kitchen apron, frame door and window openings, mirrors. Lay out of them the risers of stairs, podiums and even false fireplaces. The shower cabin made of glass blocks looks interesting photo, as proof.

Glass blocks in various interior styles.

When developing the design of a room, it is important to take into account that glass blocks must harmoniously fit into the style of the room and create a single composition with it. Particular attention should be paid to the color and texture of the building material, to choose the right shape and method of construction. The most harmoniously transparent or monotonous glass block looks in modern styles, urban, loft or high-tech. The decorativeness of baroque or art deco can be emphasized by multi-colored tiles, as an addition to the main material. Stained-glass windows will fit into the art nouveau interior in the best way, they will also be appropriate in oriental stylizations and modern classic interiors. They practically do not use the material in the interior, made in the style of country, rustic or retro.

Installation of glass blocks

Having mastered the theory, you can safely proceed to practice. Installation of any element of glass blocks can be done in one of two ways:
on the frame;
for glue or mortar.

Regardless of the method chosen, before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to take into account a number of features of working with the material.
The floor on which the glass blocks will be laid must be perfectly flat and clean.
The total wall area should not exceed 15 m2, otherwise the blocks in the lower rows may crack due to their heavy weight.
Any wall made of decorative glass block cannot be used as a load-bearing wall.
The protective film of frosted glass blocks is removed only after filling the seams.

Technique "On the frame"

This installation technique is quite simple. Sometimes it is called dry. The glass block is fixed on special modular systems. This method allows you to quickly lay out perfectly smooth walls without plumb lines and levels. Usually, the frames are made of plastic or wood, aluminum and polyurethane are also found. Each block has its own cell, its size is selected depending on the dimensions of the glass block. The frame is attached to the wall with screws, also fixed on the floor and ceiling. In the cells, the blocks are fixed by means of special rubber gaskets. This installation method does not require special skills, but is used only to create decorative or interior partitions where good sound insulation is not needed.

For glue or mortar.

This technique is more complex, time-consuming and will require certain knowledge. Fix the material on a special glue for glass blocks. Reinforcement is performed at the installation site. Two stainless steel rods are laid on the floor parallel to each other. The width between them should be less than the depth of the glass block. Vertical reinforcement is performed with a step equal to the width of the block. For better sealing, an insulating tape is fixed to the base of the frame. On it, the place of joining of the blocks is marked with the help of spacer crosses. After laying each row, the structure is reinforced, two reinforcing rods are laid in parallel and recessed into the solution.