Addition of a room to a brick house. Extension to a wooden house: projects, design options and nuances of installation work. For laying such blocks, it is required

No matter how big your a private house, sometimes it is required to attach another room to it. Appointment at new room can be different: inside they equip a bedroom, a pantry, gym, veranda, dining room, even a bath or garage. The best option in this case is an extension to the house from the frame. The structure is placed on the foundation, a kind of frame “skeleton” is made, on which the walls of OSB-plates, insulation and waterproofing are “put on”. The extension to the house is equipped with a floor and separate roof, sometimes windows and always a door.

Before starting the construction of a frame extension to the house, decide on its location. On the north or east side, it is advisable to place a pantry or utility room, on the south or west - a bedroom or living room (then there will be a lot of light in the room, during the day the sun will warm the frame extension, so you will save on heating).

If the extension will have a bedroom or living room, then make it on the south side - so you can save a little on heating

Now sketch out a house plan with a new room on a piece of paper, indicate the exact dimensions of the building and the materials that will be used in the construction.

This plan must be submitted to the technical inventory bureau of your locality. Of course, not all homeowners run to the BTI in order to organize a frame extension. But in vain! If checked, the illegal building will most likely be ordered to be demolished. Do you need such problems?

As practice shows, BTI specialists will not create obstacles and will quickly approve the project (maximum within 10 working days).

Permission from the BTI for an extension to the house will be issued within 10 days. Provided that the application meets all the established requirements, and the construction meets the technical standards

Tools and materials for creating a frame extension to the house

Permission from BTI received. Now you need to prepare tools and materials for construction. You will need:

cement mortar;
wooden planks;
sand;
small pebbles;
OSB boards;
insulation;
waterproofing;
putty;
paint for OSB-plates;
roofing material;
wooden or steel door(at the request of the owner);
window in plastic or wooden frame(if necessary);
linoleum, ceramic plates or laminate flooring;
perforator;
construction mixer;
rollers and brushes;
nails and screws;
mounting foam;
construction stapler;
shovel;
metal pipes diameter 15-20 cm, length 2.7-3 m.

Cement mortar is sold in packages of 25 kilograms each. Terms of use are indicated on the product packaging. Price - 700 to 2 thousand rubles, one of the best manufacturers- "Silka", "Maxsil", "Mapey".

The base of the extension must be strong and stable, so choose quality cement for the foundation, not a cheap mixture

Wooden boards will be needed first to create the foundation formwork. Then they can be covered with a cement-filled floor to insulate and soften it. For such purposes, spruce, pine, oak are best suited. The thickness of the board is at least 5 millimeters. Choose the length depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame extension to the house.

choose OSB thick not less than 7 millimeters with dimensions of 100 × 100 centimeters. The plate itself should be smooth and uniform. This speaks of high quality products.

As a heater, you can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The first option is cheap, but the material quickly becomes unusable. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life (up to 20 years). It is sold in the form of plates, the dimensions of one are 200 × 100 centimeters.

Choose products from 10 millimeters thick from the companies: Penoplex, Extrol, TechnoNikol.

Expanded polystyrene for warming an extension to the house is preferable to mineral wool. It does not absorb liquid, is not afraid of temperature changes

Waterproofing is a must. As such, you can use a polymer roll material. Thickness - at least 5 millimeters.

Price per square meter- about 500 rubles. Among firms, users recommend giving preference to the following: Bolars, Penetron, Polylen, Zubr.

Putty and paint are needed for exterior and interior decoration. You can learn more about the choice of paint.

On the roof you can put a metal tile. It is a durable and weather-resistant material that will last a long time, besides, it looks stylish and is inexpensive.

For a square meter you will pay 200-400 rubles. The thickness of the tile must be at least 5 millimeters.

Important: the easiest way is to create a frame extension to the house using OSB. Such a room will be warm and durable if it is properly insulated. Of course, you can build walls from bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams. But it is much more expensive and energy-intensive.

The drawings below will help determine the type of room:

With the help of such a drawing, you can create a simple extension to the house with pitched roof. Use your own sizes

Such a drawing of an extension to the house will help to simply and quickly build an additional room or, for example, a pantry.

By stages: stages of building construction

The process of erecting a frame extension to wooden house can be divided into several stages:

building a foundation;
floor filling;
erection of a frame for an extension;
wall production;
roof laying;
installation of windows, doors;
exterior finish;
interior decoration.

Work must be carried out consistently, following the instructions and safety precautions. For some "activities" (installing windows, laying the roof), it is advisable to involve an assistant.

Strong foundation: pour the foundation

To create a frame extension to the house, it is necessary to fill in the strip foundation. But if the area has a high level ground water, then it is more correct to make a pile or columnar foundation.

Construction instructions strip foundation as follows:

Mark up and dig a trench 30 centimeters deep and 20 cm wide. The result should be a rectangle or square.
Fill the trench first with sand, then with stones exactly half for strength.
Insert metal pipes at the corners of the trench. They will serve as the basis for the future frame.
Build the formwork for the foundation from the boards and fill the trench cement mortar prepared strictly according to the instructions.
Leave the design for 24 hours until completely dry.
Then fill the floor with cement mortar. It will dry completely in a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The warmer it is outside, the faster the cement hardens.

You will learn how to make a strip foundation from the video.

If you need a column or pile foundation, watch the following videos. They will talk about the rules for the construction of such foundations.

Strong "skeleton": we put the frame

The future building in the corners already has iron pipes. Between them, horizontally from the floor to the end of the pipe, other metal pipes are welded. The distance between parallel parts is at least 70 centimeters. You can “connect” the corner iron parts to each other using wooden boards. They will also serve as a frame.

Important: if the distance between the corner tubes is more than 1 meter, then in the middle you can put another vertical pipe or board to give the frame strength and reliability.

How to make a frame for an extension to the house, see the video.

Construction "sandwich": building walls

Now, in the process of building an extension from a frame to a wooden house, the most difficult and interesting thing begins with your own hands: the construction of walls. One camp is already there - it is part of the house. There are three more to do:

attach the OSB to the frame with nails. Between them there should not be large gaps of more than 3 millimeters.
On the inside of the OSB-plate, fix the waterproofing with construction stapler. The material should cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls - from top to bottom.
Attach the insulation to the waterproofing with mounting foam. The work is not difficult. It is quite possible to deal with it alone. Do not apply too thick a layer of foam and press firmly insulation board to the OSB wall.
Place OSB boards on the insulation. Attach them with screws.
Attach waterproofing to the existing wall of the house, and OSB on top.
If there are gaps between the plates themselves or the floor, fill them with mounting foam.

Builders call this construction a “sandwich”. It is built quickly and simply, but practical in operation, reliable and durable.

If you need to install windows and doors, consider them before you start installing the walls. In OSB-plates, it will be necessary to pre-cut holes of the desired size.

You will learn more about the plates themselves from the video:

Serious protection: without a roof - nothing

The roof for a frame extension to the house can be made shed or. In any case, its creation involves the following steps:

We build a base from wooden boards.
We put a heater on top.
We put waterproofing on the insulation.
From above we fasten the metal tile with an overlap. In this case, moisture from precipitation will not accumulate under the tiles.

The shed roof of the extension to the house, as it were, continues the existing roof. It's pretty easy to build. It is enough to put wooden slats of the desired length on the main roof

To be beautiful: interior and exterior decoration

The construction of the frame extension to the house is not completed until the interior and exterior decoration has been completed.

The best option for OSB boards is painting.

First prepare the surface:

sanding is performed;
antiseptics are applied good quality at "Tixo", "Drevolak");
primer treatment ("Body", "Tex").

Then the board is painted. Use alkyd, oil, water-based, acrylic, latex paints. For external and internal works different products are used. Information on which surfaces a particular dye can be used is indicated on the packaging.

You can find out more about painting OSB.

To interior decoration include floor treatment. On the cement screed put waterproofing, then insulation and wooden boards (this step can be skipped if you put laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles on the insulation).

What's next?

It would seem that the frame extension to the house is ready. But putting it into operation is not yet possible - first you need to carry out electrical wiring, install heating radiators and connect them to a common heating system private house.

You will learn how to wire.

Read about the heating system.

To make it cozy in the extension to the house at any time of the year, run the wiring inside, install heating radiators

Finally

In order for the frame extension to the house to be strong and safe, strictly follow the basic rules when building private houses in general and creating extensions in particular. Do not forget about the basic safety requirements at the construction site. Protect your hands and eyes, work in special clothing and sturdy shoes.

The easiest option for creating an extension from a frame for a house is OSB-plate. It is quite light, but fully copes with its "professional duties".

There is an opinion that using OSB is unsafe for health - products are impregnated with a mixture of phenol for strength. However, when painting and priming, phenol is stopped and not released, so OSB does not harm health.

The need for an extension to the house arises in case of a lack of usable area of the building or to increase the comfort of living. Annex to brick house can serve as a gazebo or terrace, while at the same time assuming a mass convenient solutions. And a small insulated building in the cold season acts as a kind of vestibule that prevents the penetration of cold into the living quarters. Many are beginning to think about how to make an extension to a brick house with their own hands.

The design of a house adjoining building begins with determining its size and location. Usually the veranda adjoins front door at home, thus being to some extent its continuation. However, an extension can also be erected against a blank wall, acting as an independent separate building.

In order not to bother with calculations, you can rely on already known data - for a small family, the area of \u200b\u200bthe object is approximately 12 square meters. m. Everything else depends on the configuration of the house itself and the imagination of its owner.

Before marking land plot prepare - clear of grass, possible debris, it is recommended to remove a small layer of soil over the entire area. The territory is marked for the foundation, which can be tape or columnar, pegs are driven in at the corners of the building under construction, between which a building cord is pulled.

Strip foundation

The trench for the strip foundation is carried out along the width of the bearing walls or 5-10 wider. To avoid seepage of concrete into the ground, formwork is installed inside the trench from unnecessary material, which is “buried” in the ground.

Above the pit, a formwork of even boards is also installed and leveled in horizontal plane level or hydraulic level.

The height of the formwork above the ground depends on your idea and lies in the range of 10-30 cm. If it is decided to lay the first rows of red brick in the form of a plinth, then the height of the boards can be minimized or completely dispensed with the upper formwork.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

A reinforcing belt is laid in the trench, which in ideal previously "knitted" on the surface. Soft knitting wire is used, the reinforcement spacing is 15–25 cm.

After the frame is formed, the prepared structure is poured with concrete. For a reliable and strong base, the solution is prepared in the proportion: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone.

It is poured in layers, each next layer is rammed with a metal or wooden rod (rod).

The foundation is left alone for 1 week in the warm season, and from 3 to 6 weeks in the cold. If the work is carried out in the summer, then the concrete base is poured with water 2-3 times a day to provide for the appearance of cracks.

Pillar foundation for an extension to a brick house

A simple solution for a small building is to use a columnar foundation. It implies the installation of pillars in the ground in qualitylower frame, on which the main structure will be installed. As columns use:

metal pipes;
asbestos pipes;
logs.

Regardless of the material chosen, markings for future bases are performed at the corners of the foundation and between them, if the area allows. The distance between adjacent supports is 1.5 to 2 m.

The technology of erecting a columnar foundation

Pillows of sand 10 cm high are poured into the prepared pits and carefully tamped.
Install corner posts in a strictly vertical position. To do this, you can use the usual building level. The distance between the lower part of the rod and the soil is covered with coarse material - rubble, broken bricks, large stones.
A cord is pulled between the pillars, along which the remaining (intermediate) pillars are fixed in a similar way.
The protruding rods are cut from above in a flat horizontal plane at a distance of 30-50 cm from the surface of the site. The operation is conveniently carried out using a hydraulic level or level. At the same time, on each pillar they make the so-called "zero mark", on the basis of which subsequent calculations and trimming are performed.
Pillars made of pipes are completely poured with concrete.

Construction of extension walls

The home master selects at his discretion wall material. It could be red or white brick, shell rock, expanded clay concrete or aerated concrete blocks. In one case or another, the technology of erection to the house and supporting structures is unchanged.

Lay on the surface of the foundation waterproofing material(roofing material).
Check the evenness of the surface. If necessary, it is leveled with a conventional cement-sand mortar.
Brick construction begins with the erection of the corner parts of the wall in one or two rows. In this case, the marking is done in such a way that the angles between the stretched cord are 90 ° everywhere. Corner blocks must be built perfectly, the evenness of the entire structure depends on them.
A cord is stretched between the corner "columns", along the line of which the intermediate parts of the wall structure are erected.
The extension being built is periodically “connected” with the main brick building. To do this, every 3-4 rows of masonry in the walls of the house, two holes are drilled with a perforator according to the level of the lined row. The diameter of the holes is selected in such a way that 30–50 cm metal rods (reinforcement or wire rod) can be driven into it with force. Thus, the walls of the veranda being built are combined with the wall of a residential building.
When laying the rows, you should periodically check their horizontality so that the upper final row is laid out strictly parallel to the horizon line.

Openings for windows and doors are made using a level, the upper lintel is made using a horizontally laid or steel square profile.

How to make an extension roof with your own hands

Shed roof on conventional rafters is the most simple option installation. In this case, the roofing material can be:

slate;
polypropylene sheets;
double-glazed windows;
steel sheets with sun-repellent coated.

The installation of the supporting frame is performed as follows:

Run first necessary calculations and drawings, which determine the angle of the roof (5-10 °), the location of the rafters.
The timber prepared and cut to size is treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing agents.
The base of the wooden frame is attached to the top row of the extension. The rafter prepared for this purpose is marked out every 60-90 cm and fixed with anchors so that they enter into bearing wall not less than 50 cm. Roof rafters are placed and fixed parallel to each other on the base every meter under the building cord. The wooden frame crate is ready.
The top layer of bituminous slate or other material is attached to a wooden crate according to the instructions issued by the hardware store. For slate use special slate nails with rubber seals to prevent moisture from getting under the roof.

transparent roof

The polycarbonate roof has some features:

Sheet material is attached to profiles purchased in the store: end, corner, P - and H-shaped.
For fastening the canvases, galvanized self-tapping screws 40–50 cm are used, equipped with thermal washers or conventional rubber seals.
Sheets are cut in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the rafters with an overlap of 10-15 mm. The place of such an overlap at the end of the work is hidden under a protective bar.
The outer edges of polycarbonate are equipped with H-profiles.
Sealing of joints and ends is carried out by means of finely porous flexible tapes.

The arrangement of the roof is carried out in such a way that the adjacent parts of the coating fit snugly against the wall of the house or even go under its roof. This is the only way to prevent drafts and moisture from entering the room. If desired, the roof can be made flat, pitched, arched, domed.

Roof insulation

If the extension to the brick house will be actively used in the cold season, it is recommended to insulate the roof. Sheets are used as heat insulating materials. mineral wool, which are attached between the boards of the crate (lags). Modern technologies offer a new tool - sprayed polyurethane insulation, a 5-cm layer of which will reliably protect the room from heat loss through the roof.

Completion of work

At the end of the main work, the structure is inspected for the presence of possible unfilled spaces between the roof and walls, which are additionally sealed with mineral wool, mortar.

20 cm to the specified width around the entire perimeter of the veranda, install a wooden formwork 7–10 cm high with a slight slope from the wall along the outer edge of the prepared site.

To prevent peeling concrete pad from the extension, it is recommended to "link" it with the main structure is a reinforcing single-layer cage. To do this, holes are drilled from the bottom of the building according to the size of the reinforcement in increments of 20-25 cm, where metal rods of a given length are hammered. The finished structure is poured concrete mortar and let it “settle” for 3-5 days.

Building a new residential building is an expensive and somewhat risky undertaking. Another issue is expansion. existing building in order to increase usable area. Add an extra room to country house or a cottage will cost much less than building everything from scratch. But this does not mean that designing and installing a new room is a simple matter, there are a lot of pitfalls on your way. In order to avoid mistakes, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations on how to make an extension to the house with your own hands and at minimal cost.

What kind of extension to make

To answer this question, you will have to do the design, from which any construction begins. Sketch the plan of the old building to scale, locate the extension and plot it on the drawing. thinking over internal layout new part, you will be able to accurately determine its dimensions. Draw a side view to get an idea of how much space you have in terms of height given the slopes of the roof.

An important point. Careful drawing and reconciliation with real size on site will avoid unpleasant errors associated with the size of the part being erected, its height, and especially with the slope of the roof. The minimum angle of the roof slope is 8 °, you can’t do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.

A full-fledged project should provide material for the construction of an extension. Its choice depends on the purpose of the new premises:

A full-fledged room with access to the hallway, equipped with heating and other communications - a bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom or a bathroom. This is a capital building, built of brick, aerated concrete, foam block and their combinations. Timber products are also well suited - timber and logs.
Light extensions - veranda, outdoor terrace, vestibule or porch with a polycarbonate canopy. It is better to build such premises on a frame made of wood or metal structures, sheathed with OSB boards with subsequent finishing. Greenhouse and winter Garden made of glass.
Outbuilding to the house - barn, garage, boiler room. These structures are both capital and light, the choice of material depends on your desire and capabilities. Common options are cinder block, shell rock and wood. A more progressive solution is sandwich panels with insulation on a rolled metal frame.
A separate question - what to make an extension to the balcony apartment building on the first floor. The answer is simple: to brick wall the same partition should adjoin so that the structure does not fall out of the exterior of the building. Near panel house you can use any stone blocks, but then they will have to be finished to match the color of the surrounding walls.

Note. Regarding the building materials used, not requirements are listed, but recommendations. You are free to make an extension at your discretion, for example, build brick building near log house. But such solutions are more difficult to implement, and most importantly, more expensive.

How to make a foundation for an extension

For attached premises, 4 types of bases are used, depending on the weight of the structure and the quality of the soil:

columnar - for lightweight structures on a wooden frame;
pile screw foundation used on subsiding soils for the installation of structures made of wood and metal with a small mass;
tape - for heavy stone buildings;
reinforced concrete monolithic slab it is poured over the entire area of the attached part, erected from bricks or blocks on unstable soils.

Example columnar base concrete

Advice. Modern frame houses are increasingly placed on screw piles. If this is your case, then the choice of foundation is obvious - a pile-screw foundation, it makes no sense to use another type.

solid concrete slab is used quite rarely due to the high cost, and twisting screw piles It is better to entrust professionals in this field. To independently attach a light veranda or summer gazebo, a columnar base is recommended. For brickwork or walls made of gas blocks, it is better to fill in a concrete tape, we will consider these 2 methods further.

Traditional strip foundation

columnar base

The right foundation of this type costs less than tape and is well suited for light buildings. Its device begins with the marking of the site and the designation of the installation points for future uprights frame. The pillars, and hence the soles for them, should be placed in increments of 1.5 m, as shown in the diagram.

The further course of action is as follows:

Dig square holes 50 x 50 cm in size at the indicated points, deepening 70-80 cm. The task is to put a support on a dense, stable soil, so the bottom of the pit must be tamped.
Sprinkle 15 cm of sand or fine gravel and compact again. From M150 concrete, pour a platform at the bottom, and after hardening, cover with roofing material in 2 layers (waterproofing).
Lay out square posts 38 x 38 cm from red ceramic brick to the required height.
Apply a bituminous primer to the walls of the columns or stick a welded waterproofing. Lay the roofing material on top of the support again.
Cover the sinuses around the foundation with earth and lightly tamp.

Reference. foundation pillars under frame extension can be cast from M200 concrete, but then you have to put up formwork and knit reinforcing mesh.

Strip foundation device

Under the base of this type, you need to dig a trench along the contour of the future premises, which is shown in the photo below. The width of the ditch should be made 15 cm more than the thickness of the brick or foam block wall. The depth depends on the location of a stable layer of soil and ranges from 50-100 cm. The walls of the pit must be cleaned, and the bottom must be tamped and poured sand cushion 100 mm thick.

Advice. When digging a trench, be guided by the depth of the foundation of a private house (if it is reinforced concrete or block). The rubble foundations of very old dwellings can be less buried, so you should not be equal to them.

The order of work is as follows:

Compact the poured sand and install a wooden panel formwork with external supports and internal stretch marks (possible from studs with nuts) that do not allow the sides to move under the weight of concrete. The height of the formwork is not lower than the level of the basement of the existing building.
Tie or weld frames of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm to make cells 10 x 15 cm. Install them in the trench on stands 50 mm high.
Prepare the M150 concrete mix in the following proportions: M400 cement - 1 part, dry sand - 3 parts, crushed stone with a fraction of up to 40 mm - 5 volumes.
Perform layer-by-layer pouring of the strip foundation to the height of the base of the house. It is highly desirable to compact concrete with special vibrators (rent).
Remove the formwork after 7 days, and continue work after 3 weeks, when concrete mix will harden.

Advice. So that the concrete does not lose milk during pouring and subsequently does not absorb moisture, before installation reinforcing cages cover the trench with formwork with plastic wrap.

If you want to make the extension warm initially, then after the foundation has solidified, insulate it from the outside with foam plastic, or better with foam plastic. Lay drainage along the bottom of the ditch and fill the sinuses with soil, then cast the blind area with insulation, as shown in the diagram. For an unheated extension, treat the base with bitumen or stick waterproofing (for example, from famous brand TechnoNIKOL). Lay roofing material in 2 layers on top of the plinth and proceed to the formation of the floors. You will learn about all the stages of work by watching the video:

Floor installation

The first stage of building an extension to the house with your own hands is the installation of floors, which are of 2 types:

flooring on wooden logs;
cement strainer.

Note. On the column foundation floors can only be built on logs, and on tape - any to choose from.

The wooden floors of the extension are made using the following technology:

Lay wooden lintels on the brick posts - bars with a minimum section of 10 x 15 cm and fix them with anchors. On the corner supports, join them in half a tree (how to do this is shown in the photo). Fasten the bars between each other with steel corners on self-tapping screws.
Install the lags in the same way.
If insulation is not required, then lay a rough floor of 40 mm thick boards.
To insulate the floors, nail cranial bars to the bottom of the lag, lay boards and insulation with vapor barrier on them. Then lay the rough floors.

An example of connecting beams in half a tree

For a screed device, the space inside the strip foundation is covered with earth, compacted with watering. From above, fill the recess with expanded clay to a height of 20-30 cm and fill in the screed. Let it harden for 2-3 days and proceed to the construction of walls.

Construction of extension walls

Construction order open veranda or porch depends on the project and design of the structure. But in any case, the installation begins with the installation of vertical racks and tying them together with horizontal jumpers. The most commonly used here wooden beam 10 x 15 cm or steel profile pipes section 80 x 60 mm, or 60 x 60 mm.

Reference. Builders frame houses another technology is practiced: the wall sections are entirely assembled on the ground, and then they rise and are attached to the foundation and to each other.

Docking of the beams is best done in half a tree or in a groove with fixation with steel corners on self-tapping screws, as shown in the diagram. From above, the pillars are united by a horizontal beam, where they will subsequently lie roof rafters. The ends of this jumper are securely attached to the wall of your house. A cold extension can be immediately lined with OSB boards (OSB), which will make it possible to tighten the frame. The heated room will need to be insulated with mineral wool 100 mm thick. For more on the construction of frame walls, see the video:

The main walls of the extension are built of bricks or blocks according to all the rules of masonry - with dressing of the seams and checking the vertical. The first row is laid around the entire perimeter, and then you need to form corners, raising them by 4-5 rows. Next, a wall is built to the same height, after which the action is repeated.

Advice. Tie brick or block masonry to the walls of the house by drilling holes through 2-3 rows and inserting reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm into them.

Roof installation

As a rule, the roof of the extension is made on wooden beams, based on the existing wall of the house and a new partition. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Attach with anchors to the wall of the building a horizontal board with a thickness of at least 50 mm to support the rafters. In a stone outbuilding, lay the same boards on top of the walls and secure them.
Install rafters from a board of 15 x 5 cm (minimum section) in increments of 600 mm to match the size of the slab insulation. Screw them to the supports with steel corners and self-tapping screws.
Lay the waterproofing on the beams - a diffusion membrane with an overlap of 10 cm and nail it to the rafters with planks.
Lay roofing - slate, metal or corrugated board. In order for water to drain properly from the roof, slate must be brought under the roof overhang of your home.

Simple truss system of a wooden extension

If necessary, insulate the roof of the extension by inserting mineral wool slabs between the beams by surprise. Put insulation on the bottom vapor barrier film and sew up facing material. More information about the installation of the roof of the extension is described in the video:

Conclusion

All work on the construction of an extension to the house is best done with an assistant, many operations alone are inconvenient to perform. You can cope with a one-story building without any problems, you just need to allocate time. Do not forget to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and paint it well so that the frame of the veranda or porch will last for many years.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

A porch, a veranda, a covered terrace, another living or service room - this is how an extension to a house made of timber may look like. And this choice of material does not depend on what the building itself is built from. The tree will perfectly fit into the design of a private house in any style.

An extension to a house made of timber can repeat the geometry of the main building, and be no smaller in area than it

What needs to be done before starting construction

Home extensions come in a variety of uses.

If this is a capital extension to a private house, then it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local municipal authorities. The only relief is that there are already rights to the land, and the legalization procedure will be simplified.

Non-capital extensions that do not affect the structure of the house and do not change the scheme engineering networks do not need a building permit. These include:

covered terrace;
external staircase;

Also, permission is not needed if it is an auxiliary structure that does not affect the supporting structures and communications of the main building. For example, for an attached summer kitchen permission is needed, but attached gazebo with a garden fireplace - no.

If we are talking about expanding the building, then this already applies to the reconstruction of the house (regardless of the seasonality of residence), and permits must be issued. This must be done for the following reasons:

the extension will take a certain place on the site, and may violate standard distances to the boundaries of the site, water intake points, septic tank, gas tank;

the design of the house is changing, which means that the shares of property rights are changing;

technical documentation in the municipal authorities will not correspond to reality, and this is a fine and blocking of any real estate transaction until the reconstruction is legalized or the illegal extension is eliminated.

But, if a construction organization is engaged in this, then obtaining a permit is the concern of the specialists of the company that will develop the extension project.

Foundation

The main difficulty in building an extension is that it needs its own foundation.

During the construction of the house, the foundation is made as single structure, which redistributes the total load on all the “spot” of the development. And the foundation around the entire perimeter is the same: for the tape - this is the thickness and depth of the foundation, for piles - the length, section size and distance between them.

For a capital extension, you need the same foundation as for the whole house. You can, of course, put another one, but there will be no full guarantee that it will “behave” in the same way as the main one. Even when the new foundation bearing characteristics identical to the old one, a crack may form at the junction of the tape due to uneven settlement - the soil under the house has already settled, and under the extension it will only begin to deform.

If the house is relatively new and there is project documentation on it, then it is not difficult to determine the parameters of the foundation.

The same clear technology, if you need to reconstruct the foundation of the house. For example, when with a plot in the "inheritance" got old house and they remake it “for” themselves, at the same time constructing an extension from a bar to a log house. In this case, the reconstruction of the old foundation and the construction of a new one are carried out using the same technology.

The third option is to examine the old foundation. The tape must be dug up (this will still have to be done where the extension adjoins), determine the materials and the depth of the foundation. And the parameters of the pile - to determine "by eye". That is, in fact, to conduct a small engineering survey.

It is not difficult to tie a pile or screw new foundation to the old one - this is done at the level of the grillage after the supports are installed.

Strip foundations are connected with reinforcement. For this, the wall of the base of the house is dug out along the contour of the trench for the foundation of the extension. Holes are drilled in the base wall according to the diameter of the reinforcement, pins are driven in there and the frame of the new foundation is tied to them.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses from profiled timber construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Features of an extension from a bar. Material selection

A beam, like a log, is not so often used to build an extension to a house. In most cases for wooden annex choose frame technology construction - cheaper, easier, less load on the soil and sediment, which means you can lay a lighter foundation. And the main advantage is that all construction work and finishing can be started and completed in one season.

An extension from a bar can be made in one season only if it is glued or chamber drying. Both materials practically do not shrink, so there will be no changes in the geometry of walls and partitions.

bar natural humidity dries out for a long time, therefore, after the construction of the walls and the erection of the roof, the extension should stand for at least a year. And only after that it is possible to install windows, doors, install communications and carry out finishing.

Another factor affecting the speed of construction and the cost of materials is the purity of processing. Walls made of planed or glued laminated timber practically do not need to be modified, and they can simply be varnished.

There are two options to make an extension from a bar to a wooden house - quickly, but expensive or cheaper, but longer. For comparison, below is the approximate price level for 1 m 3 of a bar of one of the most “running” sizes of 150x150x6000 mm:

edged (construction) - 6000-6300 rubles;

1 grade - 7000-7300 rubles:

profiled natural humidity - 8500-9000 rubles;

profiled chamber drying - 9500-10000 rubles;

planed natural humidity - 9000-9500 rubles;

planed chamber drying - 10500-11500 rubles;

glued - 21000-23000 rubles.

Of course, if they make an extension to a wooden house from a bar, then they choose the type that was used for the main structure.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer extensions to existing houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Features of an extension from a bar of natural humidity. Connection to home

A solid and reliable foundation is only part of the problem, which, in principle, is characteristic of all capital extensions. This is not a porch and summer terrace, for which the tightness and thermal insulation of the joint to the facade of the house is not so important. And for an attached living space, it is important that there are no gaps.

For a brick extension to a brick house, the problem of sealing is easily solved - both materials are equally stable and do not change their dimensions either with time or with changes in humidity. And here they use the usual mounting foam, which is sealed from above with a cement-sand mortar.

The tree behaves differently. Especially if you use a bar of natural moisture - the frozen foam will simply break. Therefore, the joint between the facade of the house and the extension wall must be made in the form of a windproof “sliding” knot.

The principle itself is not new - a similar technique is used when connecting the casing (landing frame) of the window to the walls wooden house. Or in the same way attached to the walls internal partitions from a beam.

There is different ways connection of an extension made of wood to the facade of the house. And the choice of a particular type depends on the materials of the facade.

Timber extension to a wooden house

You can attach the external (and internal) walls of an extension to a wooden house from a bar in the following ways:

On a bar. To flat surface walls or evenly cut ends of the log house are stuffed with a bar, having previously laid a tape interventional insulation along the connection line. At the ends of the extension beam, a groove is cut to the size of the bar. They connect both walls (old and new) with a thorn-groove lock, laying it with another layer of interventional insulation.

On slotted in wooden facade groove. If you need to attach an extension wall to a log house in the middle of the facade, then there is no point in filling a mortgage bar - there will remain between it and the “wavy” wall big gaps. In this case, a groove is cut on the facade along the width of the timber and connected through a tape insulation.

In both cases, next to the junction, the timber must be connected to each other on dowels - so that the wall settles equally in height, and the crowns do not diverge due to the difference in friction force on different areas node.

Video description

Visually about joining the beam with the wall of a wooden house and the use of dowels, see the video:

Video description

And the next video shows the first part of the work on the reconstruction of the same house, which tells about the preparation - laying the foundation. It is interesting here that the annex is larger than the main building

There is a third way - connecting the facade and the extension wall with brackets. For thermal insulation of the joint, a tape insulation is laid in it and closed with a flashing. After the end of the active phase of shrinkage (at least a year), the flashing and staples are removed, the joint is caulked again, the staples are hammered again and again closed with a flashing.

Extension to a brick house

To the facade of brick or building blocks, most often the timber wall of the extension is attached through additional beam with cut groove. In fact, the method is similar to the principle of connecting with a wooden wall "in a groove". In principle, you can use mounting on a bar, but it is more difficult to fix it directly to the facade with anchors, and if you use corners, they will interfere with the “sliding” of the wall from the bar during shrinkage.

The connection in the groove is effective in any case - both in terms of tightness and engagement strength. And the thermal insulation of the connection point of the extension from the timber to the brick house is provided with the same interventional insulation.

Important! Between the wall and the beam with a groove, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing tape. it required condition protection against decay of wood along the line of contact with brick or concrete.

Roof

There are no special features during the construction of the roof of the extension. Usually it is either single-sided or gable roof. The truss system of both types belongs to the simplest and the main difficulty is to ensure the tightness of the junction.

If the roof is adjacent to the facade, then the manufacturer of any roofing materials in the installation instructions describes almost all possible combinations of junctions to other surfaces, regardless of their materials.

If the roof of the extension continues the slope of the roof of the house, then it all depends on the height of the facade. In the simplest case, with the same slope of the two sections, you will have to “build up” the rafter legs from this side. More difficult option- change the slope angle (by type broken roof). But even in this case, the technology for arranging the roof is standard.

If the house and the extension are “covered” with one roof (as happens during the reconstruction of a building), then they arrange a common truss system with one Mauerlat or upper trim circuit.

Conclusion

An extension made of timber in terms of manufacturing complexity does not differ from the construction of a timber house. It also needs a detailed project from the foundation to the roof. And of course, the need to refine existing engineering communications. New consumption points will appear for electric networks, and this is a change in the load and modes of the emergency protection system. Autonomous heating will require new thermal calculations (and possibly equipment replacement). It may also turn out that it will be necessary to “build up” pipelines for water and sewerage.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

An excellent way to increase the area is an extension to a wooden house. Projects of such structures are striking in their diversity and scale. After choosing a suitable project, you need to prepare special materials. Additional annex useful when creating a kitchen area, or a luxurious terrace. Any room can be built independently, but it is necessary to choose the right type of building.

Extension option

Extension to a wooden house: projects of structures from various materials

Some time after construction work, it may be necessary to increase the usable area. A wonderful way out can be the creation of an extension to a wooden house. Projects of various structures can be seen in the photo.

Choosing architectural form designs, do not forget about creating a single ensemble in style. Such a structure requires special documentation and permission. Before construction work, it is necessary to study the technological features and design options.

It is worth considering the following options for extensions:

To simple designs applies or dining area. It is used to protect against bad weather and sunlight. Under a canopy, you can have picnics and receive guests. For its construction does not require a strong foundation. Pillars are installed as supporting supports, to which the frame and intended wall surfaces are attached.

Such structures are often built from logs, timber, foam blocks, and also from bricks. Frame technologies are often used.

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Ask a Question

“The option under a common roof is considered more convenient and profitable. When using superstructures, it is worth calculating the strength of the base.

Related article:

Extension to the house from the frame: features of design and installation

When making an extension to the house from the frame, significant costs will not be required. it a budget option. The construction is made on a frame basis, which consists of bars or planks made of metal. After the installation of the frame structure, the walls are clad on both sides. In this case, OSB or chipboard plates are used. Fitted between the slabs heat-insulating material. It can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

By thermal insulation properties frame structures are not inferior to more solid stone or brick buildings.

Construction works performed in several stages:

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

Ask a Question

“For a frame structure, a foundation is required. You can use a tape construction with waterproofing.

Extension to the house of foam blocks: photos of interesting projects

You can build an extension to the house from foam blocks.

This design is in demand due to the following features:

The material is available at an affordable price.
To mount the structure, it is not necessary to mount a complex and expensive foundation.
The elements hold heat well. This is possible due to the porous structure and not high rate density.
Foam blocks are produced overall dimensions, which affects the speed of construction.

For structures made of foam blocks, a special foundation is required. It can be a tape or monolithic base. Required to apply high-quality waterproofing. Construction work starts from one selected corner. After installing two rows. This is necessary to ensure better adhesion of the elements.

An extension to a wooden house made of timber: installation nuances and style features

A beautiful and solid extension to a wooden house can be made from a bar. Projects and photos of individual can be found on the Internet.

The material has the following features:

The production of timber is carried out according to factory technologies.
The surface is treated with a special composition that protects against fungi and decay processes.
Naturalness and high environmental friendliness are considered important advantages of the material.

The extension must be connected to an existing building. Usually, the same foundation is made for the structure as for the main building.

For the dwelling, a separate foundation should be created and special wall. The void and the gaps between the two walls are blown with mounting foam. This will prevent damage to the wall of the building when the new extension shrinks.

More economical option foundation is piled. The walls are built from profiled timber. After installing the first row, the surface of the tree is treated with antiseptic compounds. Then lags are mounted on it. Voids and cracks are filled with special heat-insulating material.

Each row is fastened with wooden dowels. special attention requires installation corner zones. For this, logs with a ledge and a groove are used for a stronger grip.

Note! Reinforcement is used to unite the two foundations.

Before proceeding with the construction, one should take into account some of the nuances of installing an additional structure to the main structure. The length of the new structure should be in harmony with the length of the main wall. building object. The width of the additional structure can be any.

The extension does not have to be adjacent to the wall where the entrance to the house is located. Access to a spacious veranda or kitchen area can be from the living room. If a bathroom is planned in an additional structure, then the exit can be made from or. A suitable location for the structure is considered to be the front or end part of the house. The choice and amount of material depends on the type of future structure.