How to fold the simplest brick oven. Small brick ovens: purpose, advantages, construction. Orders - a detailed scheme of laying a brick oven

Due to the constant rise in gas prices, many homeowners are trying to install a stove in addition to the already used gas boiler. This makes it possible to significantly reduce the cost of heating the building during the heating season.

How to fold a brick oven yourself and what should be considered when choosing a mortar for masonry and brick? What will help to correctly calculate the necessary building materials and choose the most suitable stove for a summer house or a residential building?

Choosing a building material for laying the furnace

It is quite possible to build a brick oven yourself, especially if the owner has special building skills and understands the internal structure of the oven equipment. Before proceeding with the masonry, it is necessary to choose the most suitable building material for this task.

The main difficulty of the choice lies in the fact that the brick must be resistant to high temperatures, and also not lose the integrity of its structure even as a result of many heating-cooling cycles.

The choice of material affects the final result of the work and can be a decisive factor influencing the life of the equipment. Therefore, if the owner of the house decides that he is able to lay down a brick oven himself, first of all, attention should be paid to this particular stage of construction. How to choose the right brick?

1. Sort. For the construction of the furnace, only refractory bricks designed exclusively for this purpose are suitable. The ideal solution would be to use fireclay products.
2. Quality. Hitting the surface with a hammer should produce a clean and resonant knock. There should be no dents on the front side. In the context, it should be uniform, any inclusions are excluded.

It will be much easier to fold a brick stove on your own if you learn how to choose a building material. Quality products usually have smooth edges, and the maximum deviation from the size is only a few millimeters. Even if it is necessary to build a brick oven with an oven, the use of such material facilitates the construction process several times.

Which solution to choose?

Correctly laying out a simple brick oven is actually not so difficult. The difficulty lies in the fact that it continued to work after several heating seasons. Some owners, even inviting experienced stove-makers, are faced with the fact that after a while their stove begins to smoke and becomes covered with cracks. The reason may be the wrong solution that was used for its masonry. It is possible to make a brick stove for a house that would last a long time only from the following types of mortar:

• Clay. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. Strongly fastens a surface and is steady against heating. You can prepare it yourself in a quarry or purchase it at one of the hardware stores.
• Ready mix. The optimal solution for construction. The composition, as a rule, already contains all the necessary plasticizers and additives. In terms of strength and performance characteristics, it is not inferior to clay. Novice builders who decide to make a stove for a brick house on their own are advised to use a ready-made mixture.

If you need to lay out the oven yourself, you should remember the importance of good grouting. Ready-made solutions spread better, so the number of empty spaces is reduced to zero. After laying, in the event that it is not planned to plaster the surface, you can do the jointing.

Choosing the type of stove

It is much easier to make a brick oven yourself if you have an idea of ​​what type of oven equipment is suitable for your home. There are several options, the choice of which depends entirely on the characteristics of the building itself and the needs of the residents who live in it.

1. Furnace in a wooden house. For it, it is necessary to prepare a good and reliable foundation. If you plan it in the early stages of construction, you can reduce the cost of dismantling and finishing work. Compact stoves are more suitable for such houses. Of course, you can also put a classic Russian stove, but in most cases this option will not be justified.
2. Vacation home. The presence of animals in the house, the need to heat water and cook food can significantly affect the decision. For a rural house, a brick oven is better, which has a built-in tank for heating water, a hob and an oven.
3. Dacha or cottage. A plot with a building outside the city, which is visited only on weekends, does not require the construction of large furnace structures with a complex design. For a summer residence, a compact-sized brick oven with a hob is better suited. You can think about the advisability of acquiring a steel "potbelly stove".
   A mini brick stove can be folded according to the summer version (in this case, warm air is sent directly to the chimney, and not to the heat exchanger channels).

After the type of future equipment and its approximate dimensions are determined, the number of bricks for the stove can be calculated. As already noted, it has precise dimensions, with a maximum distortion of 1-2 mm. So for 1 m² of masonry, you need 61 pcs. taking into account laying, in half a brick.

Self-construction of stoves allows you to save on the call of the master, but has certain difficulties. It is best not to take on masonry for people who have no idea about the work and intricacies of furnace equipment.

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When you think about building your own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc. cope with heating the house, but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is being actively used again.

The stove is a highlight of design, and an economical heating device. For laying the stove, it is much easier to find an experienced stove-maker. But this long-forgotten craft has just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove-makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”.

Properly laying out an oven requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study many instructions for laying brick ovens.

Types of furnaces

The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:

• Dutch;
• Russian;
• Swede.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian oven

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. Under the bed there is a firebox, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and a blower a little lower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will be required.

Swede

Relate to compact options. In length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusualness of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is flammable. But the risk of fire is reduced by dampers.

Construction rules

A homemade stove must meet fire safety requirements. Therefore, it is necessary to pay special attention to the preparation for construction.

• Decide on the location of the furnace.
• Prepare the correct drawing.
• Buy quality materials for construction.
• Purchase of tools.
• Draw up a cost estimate.

Properly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help to avoid many mistakes. Ready-made plans can be found on the Internet.

When choosing an installation site, you need to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the type of furnace. It’s difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it’s easier to use a reduced brick oven model, a photo of which is on the Internet.

Choice of working tools

When laying the stove, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:

• Jointing - floods the solution into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the oven is left without cladding or plaster.
• Trowel.
• Pickaxe.
• Solution shovel.
• Plumb.
• Furnace line.

materials

The heat transfer and durability of the furnace will depend on the material that was used in the construction. Therefore, this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - grade M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber must be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to brick, it is used:

• Screened sand.
• Clay - normal fat content.

Foundation for the furnace

The basis for a homemade oven is made at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a strong foundation

First, they dig a hole. It should be noted that the width and length of the pit should exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

After the pit is leveled, and half covered with sifted sand, well compacted and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is placed. Further, all free space is poured with a solution of concrete, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontality with the help of a building level.

After 5-6 days, the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is disassembled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

• lay out of brick;
• re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, ramming it.

The recipe for concrete mortar - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. Clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built with solid bricks. The sutures of the first row require dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used in the construction of smoke paths. The chimney is built of red burnt bricks. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “castle” layout.

Photo of brick ovens

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove will help out, which even a "humanist" can fold.

The article considers two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who do not pretend at all to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. A simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating appliances - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove, you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flame.

The design occupies a little more than half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require a foundation. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a powerful foundation - it is enough to put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of the option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they are not beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of furnaces. But it is necessary to observe the order - this will make the design as efficient as possible in the context of its potential.

What is required for work?

This is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build a structure you will need:

• brick:
• * fireclay - 37 pcs.;
• * red - 60 pcs.;
• the door blew;
• firebox door;
• lattice;
• valve;
• cast iron hob.

As a binder - clay solution. In total, about 20-25 liters of the mixture will be needed.

Training

The first step is to determine the location of the furnace. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no restrictions inherent in traditional brick solutions. Having fixed strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can be played by non-combustible material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. The order of the furnace masonry The furnace order is as follows:

1. The first row is laid on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly according to the level. The bricks are smeared with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord that compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
2. After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a blower.
3. Fireclay is used (in the diagram it is distinguished by a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
4. Prior to this, the brick was laid flat. On this row, it is placed on the edge. A smoke channel is formed, inside which the basis for the partition is made. One of the bricks (it can be seen in the illustration) is laid "dry" - subsequently it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with strips of asbestos before installation. But you need to do this so that the door opens well up. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
5. The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
6. Again, the “rib” turn is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
7. The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made, again using the "on edge" format.
8. This closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove is used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
9. The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. This ensures the sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. The cast-iron panel cannot be placed directly on the clay mortar, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to cracks.
10. At this stage, the formation of a chimney pipe starts. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
11. Here a valve is mounted, sealed with strips of asbestos. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated with clay mortar. This is the final row, which completes the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be joined to a lighter metal channel.

After that, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke channel and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not involve serious embellishments. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of yellow plaque and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then the stains will not get rid of.

It is necessary to grease the seams between brick and metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between ceramics and cast iron.

Be sure to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will prevent sand from getting into the room. It is desirable to cover the joint with a L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves both as a decor and as an additional element that prevents the “foundation” backfill from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning furnace

The oven is ready. The entire process took less than one business day. Already now you can try to make a low-power kindling. Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. Wood-fired kindling will create too high a temperature, and the structure will crack. For a full setting of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating design. This oven with your own hands can be laid out in just an hour, even if the hands are generally far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest version of a brick oven

The principle of operation of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, here it settles under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a thrust that carries hot air currents upward. At the same time, firewood burns almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you only need two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that it makes no sense to describe the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Ordering the simplest brick structure If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. Bricks are recommended to be connected with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without a binder - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.

Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Scheme of the device of a simple stove. According to this scheme, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed to load firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney channel.

Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this design will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will obey the specialist in a matter of minutes.

Advantages of the simplest furnace designs

Design advantages:

• very high installation speed - from a day to several minutes;
• does not require a foundation; the stove can be folded anywhere; and if you do not use a binder mixture, the stove comes out collapsible and easily moves;
• as fuel - everything that burns: logs, branches, cones, corn stalks, leaves, chipboard, furniture remnants, etc .;
• fuel consumption is several times less than, for example, in the case of a potbelly stove;
• the simplest option - without the use of clay - allows you to get more heat transfer than from a fire; therefore, such structures are a godsend for those who do not want to constantly maintain a fire on a hike;
• almost complete absence of smoke - fuel burns with a minimum of waste;
• the temperature of the bricks reaches 1000 degrees - good heating and fast cooking are provided.

Conclusion

Figure 10. Another L-shaped option

Even the most advanced version of this review does not require qualifications and a lot of time. The choice of design depends on the goals of the stove. In a stationary case, the first option is suitable. For mobile situations and completely unskilled users, it is better to use even more simplified schemes.

znatoktepla.ru

How to fold a brick oven for a house or cottage

Despite the development of new technologies, an ordinary wood-burning brick stove continues to be one of the most popular sources of heat for private and country houses, as well as garages and other outbuildings. But the construction of even the simplest stove requires tangible financial costs, which is why many homeowners are interested in whether it is possible to build it yourself and how best to do it.

To help them save on construction, this material tells how to properly fold a simple brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a residential building or cottage.

Furnace project selection

It's no secret that there are countless different projects of wood-fired brick ovens, and master stove-makers are constantly coming up with new designs. That is why it will not be easy for a person who decides to master the basics of the furnace business to make a choice among them. Therefore, you should first give clear answers to the following questions:

1. What tasks should a brick oven solve in your house, will it only be a heating one, or will it need to be used to cook food and heat water?
2. How much space are you willing to allocate for the construction of the stove when building a new house?
3. If a cottage or a house has already been built, then you need to think about the location of the heater and the passage of the ceilings with a chimney. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the device of a separate foundation.
4. Decide in advance on the design, you may wish to build a fireplace stove with panoramic glass.

Advice. At first, a beginner should not take on the laying of a serious brick oven in the house, but to begin with, lay down something simple and small in the yard - a barbecue or barbecue, since there are quite a lot of such projects published. Having trained and stuffed your hand, you will understand the nuances of this work and start building a home heater more confidently.

Scheme of a street barbecue with lockers

Of course, it is unlikely that an ignorant person will be able to build a beautiful stove with built-in panoramic glass with their own hands. But after all, to perform these works and consultations, you can always invite a stove-maker. As a rule, these people are benevolent, since the construction of a hearth must always be approached with a soul. As for choosing a project, you are offered 3 simple options:

• conventional hob for 2 burners with a tank for heating water;
• channel heating stove - Dutch;
• heating and cooking stove of classical design.

The technology for building the original rocket stove is presented in our separate guide.

Cooker with water boiler

This stove has dimensions of 890 x 510 mm and is designed for cooking with simultaneous heating of water in a tank placed on the path of flue gases leaving the furnace. The total heat transfer of the stove is 1.2 kW when laying firewood twice a day. This furnace is shown below in sectional drawings:

Such a small-sized do-it-yourself brick oven is quite simple in execution and will take up little space in the kitchen. Subsequently, a heating shield can be attached to it in order to take more heat from the flue gases. The laying diagram below shows the order of the furnace:

To fold the hob yourself, you must first purchase the following materials and oven fittings:

• full-bodied ceramic brick - 185 pcs.;
• cast iron stove for 2 burners measuring 530 x 180;
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, revision door 130 x 140;
• equal-shelf corner 30 x 4 - 3.6 m;
• oven 320 x 270 x 400;
• water tank 150 x 350 x 450.

Also, roofing steel and sheet asbestos with dimensions of 115 x 64 cm are required for lining under the stove, and a sheet of metal 50 x 70 cm is needed for laying on the floor in front of the stove.

Dutch channel stove

This classic duct-type heating stove, shown in the photo, really comes from Holland. Its advantages are simplicity and undemanding to the quality of materials, and the body of the furnace can also be increased arbitrarily in height and thus heat rooms on two floors. In addition, the Dutch can be safely considered a mini-oven, since it takes up very little space in the plan.

Making the simplest Dutch stove for 3 channels, shown below in the drawing, for an experienced craftsman will not be very difficult. A beginner will have to work hard to make high-quality masonry with dimensions in terms of 1010 x 510 mm, extending to a height of more than 2 m plus a chimney. But first, it is proposed to familiarize yourself with the masonry scheme of this brick oven and the orders:

For construction, the following materials will be required:

• full-bodied ceramic brick - 390 pcs.;
• grates 250 x 250 (cast iron or steel grate);
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 140 x 140, revision door 140 x 140;
• metal gate valve 130 x 130;
• asbestos sheet 1000 x 500;
• the same sheet of roofing steel.

Heating and cooking oven

The design of this heat source is already more complex, although outwardly the stove resembles the same Dutch stove. Its dimensions are 650 x 510 mm, and the developed thermal power is about 1.5 kW. By the name of a brick oven - heating and cooking - it is easy to understand that it is designed both for heating rooms in the house and for cooking. The construction scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme of a combined stove

An important point. If you carefully study the diagram, you can understand that the summer mode of operation in this simple design is not provided.

This means that cooking in the summer on the stove will be hot if it is located in the house. You will have to cook in a different way or choose a more suitable heat source design. Homeowners who are not embarrassed by this fact are offered a list of materials and procedures in order to successfully fold a brick oven:

• full-bodied ceramic brick - 211 pcs.;
• cast iron stove for 1 burner measuring 360 x 410;
• grate 250 x 250;
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, inspection door 130 x 140, ventilation door 130 x 75;
• equal-shelf corner 32 x 4 - 300 mm;
• valve 140 x 140;
• knitting wire with a diameter of 1.5 - 5 m.

What kind of brick to lay the oven

The main building material for the construction of the furnace is red ceramic brick grade 150, made from baked clay. Its dimensions are standard - 250 x 120 x 65 mm, although in the past other stones were also produced for the furnace business. But now all the dimensions are unified, so that the fireclay (refractory) brick, from which the furnace firebox is often laid out, is the same size as the usual one.

In construction, a stone 88 mm high is still used, but it is not suitable for laying furnaces, since it has voids. Here, only full-bodied material is required, which does not have voids and cracks. For the latter, each unit must be carefully studied; a good quality brick is required for work. True, there is one exception - the Dutch oven, it can also be laid from less quality stones. But it’s not worth it to reach the point of absurdity, a heat source made of cobblestones will definitely not heat.

The fact is that a heating and cooking stove built with your own hands from low-quality red brick can crack even at the stage of drying the masonry mortar. It should be noted that the clay mortar dries up, and does not harden, like cement. Therefore, beginners are not recommended to experiment with bad or used bricks, otherwise the newly built oven will immediately require repair.

Chamotte stone for the formation of a firebox

A separate recommendation concerns masonry mortar. At first, you should not go to the nearest ravine for clay, because it still needs to be brought to the correct condition. It is better to buy a ready-made mortar for laying furnaces, clay or fireclay.

How to build an oven

In the vast majority of cases, construction begins with the construction of a foundation for a future heat source. An exception may be outdoor mini-ovens, which, due to their low weight, are sometimes placed directly on the concrete screed of the yard. All others, regardless of location, must be built on a solid foundation. Moreover, it is not allowed that the foundation of the furnace is connected to the base of the house or arranged close to it, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm, and preferably 10.

Important. Failure to comply with this requirement may lead to the fact that after a year or two the oven may crack and even deviate from the vertical.

If the house has a good foundation in the form of a cement screed, and the total weight of the furnace does not exceed 750 kg, then no foundation is required; The structures given in the previous section have a weight of over 750 kg, and therefore it is necessary to arrange a reliable foundation for them. The foundations for the furnace are of 2 types: rubble and reinforced concrete.

Regardless of the type of base, you first need to dig a hole whose dimensions exceed the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace by 10 cm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of black earth or other subsiding soil, while the base of the foundation must rest on a denser layer. In the first case, the pit is laid with rubble stone with dressing, using a solution of the following components:

• sand - 6 parts;
• cement - 1 part;
• lime mixed with water - 1 part.

All voids between the stones are also filled with this solution, and the upper part, located at a depth of 80 mm from the floor, is leveled with it. The reinforced concrete base is poured with formwork and reinforcing mesh, having previously poured a pillow of crushed stone 10 cm thick onto the bottom of the pit.

Important. After the mortar or concrete has hardened, a waterproofing barrier made of roofing felt in 2 layers must be laid on top of the foundation.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in accordance with the orders in compliance with the thickness of the seams within 3-5 mm. After laying each row, it is necessary to control the observance of the vertical and horizontal lines using a plumb line and building level. The mortar can be applied to the brick with a trowel or by hand, light tapping of the stone after it is put in place is allowed.

The remains of the solution are removed from both sides of the wall, and the inside is wiped with a wet cloth to create a smoother surface. This is necessary in order to provide the least resistance to flue gases.

When installing fittings and water tanks, it is important to ensure that there are no gaps between the masonry and the metal surface, the interface points must be carefully filled with mortar, otherwise the stove will smoke. Upon completion of construction, it is necessary to withstand 2 days until the mortar is completely dry, after which it is possible to make a trial furnace fire starting with a small amount of firewood. How to fold a small oven at home is described in detail in the video:

How to paint the oven

It is clear that the first time a newly-made master will not be able to lay down a beautiful stove due to lack of experience. But this is fixable, because outside you can make a brick wall cladding using staining. Previously, they were plastered and covered with two layers of whitewash of chalk or lime, but now there are simpler and more convenient means. In addition, lime is easily transferred to clothing when accidentally touched and constantly needs to be updated.

If we talk about how you can paint a brick oven, then there are such options:

• organosilicon heat-resistant enamel grade KO, designed for high temperatures;
• silicate or acrylic paints;
• heat-resistant varnish (for example, PF-238) mixed with dye.

The most preferred option is transparent enamel KO-85, KO-174 and KO-813. It is suitable both for the furnace itself and for painting metal parts, as it can withstand temperatures up to 600 ° C. Silicate and acrylic paints will not last as long, but they are cheaper. Also, the stove can be painted with transparent varnish PF-238 or mixed with gouache of the desired color, as shown in the photo:

In any case, the coating is applied for 2 times, the second layer is applied after the first has dried. The tool used is a brush and a roller. It is desirable to pre-treat the surface with a special primer composition designed specifically for such purposes.

Conclusion

Of course, it is impossible to deeply reveal all the nuances of a complex furnace business within the framework of one article, only the basics are given here. For a novice home master, before getting down to business, it is advisable to study the relevant literature in order to successfully lay down his first oven. It is equally important to carry out the preparatory stage, to choose the right materials, tools and fixtures.

ovent.com

How to fold the oven with your own hands - bricklaying technology, tips + Video

It is not difficult to lay down a brick oven, which is always ready to warm any home, by yourself. You just need to learn some of the subtleties of building brick stoves and correctly use the knowledge gained.

What kind of brick oven can be installed in your home and where is the best place to do it?

By functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Hobs have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in summer cottages and in small private houses where people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove is able to heat a small area, but its main task is not in this, but in cooking.

Heating systems are designed exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, due to which they are usually very compact in size. Cooking and heating - a combination of the first two types of brick ovens, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often, such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Cooking and heating furnace

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke when kindling and burning, and also create comfortable conditions for staying in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in your home where you want to fold the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

• It is impossible to build a heating device near the outer wall of a residential building due to the fact that it will cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
• They put the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - a living room and a kitchen, a bedroom and a dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly below it is more suitable.
• To simplify the masonry, it is desirable to find a correctly drawn up ordering scheme for a particular type of furnace.
• If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance index.

Note that large devices for heating (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a connection (mechanical) with the base of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

We make a foundation and choose a brick for building a furnace

If a relatively small stove is being built in an already operating house with a slab concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing base. On the concrete floor, you will only need to lay roofing material.

When the flooring of a wooden building or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate base for the heating device.

You can do it yourself according to this scheme:

1. We mark on the floor a place for a future brick stove.
2. We remove the marked part of the floor covering and dig a pit in the ground under it (its depth should be about half a meter).
3. At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), we tamp the resulting “pillow”.
4. We put a plank formwork for the foundation along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
5. We fill half of the pit under the furnace foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, wait for it to harden.
6. We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly seized), which is desirable to make it more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

Base for heating device

After that, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation with the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and buy a brick, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, refractory, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks, as well as hand-molded products, are used. All these materials should be selected by markings that indicate their strength. A brick oven in the house should be built from special products of the M150–M200 brands, which have:

• uniform color;
• straight edges with no chips or cracks;
• geometrically correct shape;
• dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with exactly these parameters, since most ordinal schemes are developed for them).

Special oven bricks

It is allowed to use not oven brick, but fireclay. But be prepared for the fact that the fireclay oven will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Outside, fireclay products are lined with ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures built from special oven bricks.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before folding the oven with your own hands, you should deal with the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Usually, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that any smell (unpleasant or pleasant) is coming from fireclay clay, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. Such clay is not suitable for laying the furnace. Any sand is taken, the main thing is that there are no impurities in it.

clay with sand

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined empirically by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

• pour 1 kg of clay with ordinary water and leave for 24 hours until the composition turns sour;
• knead the clay to the state of plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
• divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to its different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
• knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled into “sausages” 30–40 cm long with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around some round workpiece of a larger diameter. After that, they wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). It remains only to analyze the quality of the solutions.

Checking the quality of the masonry mortar

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no deeper than 2 mm, the mortar can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280-300 ° C. If the "sausages" are covered with gaps and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it for the construction of the furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for furnace work at a hardware store. You don’t want to mess around with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the ordering scheme you have chosen for a specific model of the furnace structure, as well as to determine the type of masonry. Common ways to install bricks are masonry with empty seams and undercut. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the mortar is present in it in all the seams made. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the built furnace is a mandatory operation.

Scheme-ordering for furnace design

In order not to make fatal mistakes, it is recommended for beginners in the construction of home heating structures to pre-lay bricks without the use of a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order with the help of 5 mm thick rails. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats "replace" the solution.

After you build the entire oven dry, and make sure everything is done correctly, start disassembling the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will be much faster for you.

Furnace finishing process

• vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
• each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
• the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
• it is necessary to perform dressing of all rows vertically;
• the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken about 5–7 mm, after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is allowed to lightly tap the rows with a rubber mallet);
• when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped for a couple of seconds in ordinary water, due to which they stick to the mortar without any problems, fireclay products do not need to be “bathed”;
• before laying, the bricks should be cleaned with a hair brush from dust and crumbs (this operation is called mopping).

A few more important points. Bricks are laid on the place intended for them one by one. If the stone lay "by", it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then put again. The solution that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace on our own using a clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully aligned and the locations of all doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After that, you need to establish the position of the corner stones and lay them on the mortar.

We use a level to accurately align the position of the bricks horizontally, as well as a tape measure to check the dimensions of the structure under construction in diagonal and plan. Now you can lay the first row on a sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

Laying the first row on a sand-clay mixture

The verticality of the entire contour of the brick oven during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines, stretched on a string from the ceiling to the oven corners. The lines made in this way will be an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we perform the laying of the second row in a similar way:

• put the stones in their place in the corners;
• we check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
• lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way, we lay the third and subsequent rows of bricks. Do not forget to constantly check with the furnace construction plan (with order). Be sure to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar with a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of furnace, choose the location of the firebox, blower, ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the blower compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, the ash pan after the fifth.

When laying the stove, one should adhere to the important principle of dressing the stones used, which involves overlapping the next row of each vertical seam with bricks. It is desirable that the vertical connection is located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an "idyll" is rarely achieved. In this case, try to move the seam to a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, a brick oven is not so difficult to lay out with your own hands.

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How to properly fold a brick oven

Stove heating is not going to become obsolete at all. Wood-burning brick stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a stove-maker to build and buy the necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick ovens

The first thing to consider is to choose a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven in the work of many years of practice:

• channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
• hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
• Swede - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Channel stove - Dutch

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture on your own is quite simple. It is distinguished by its small size in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two - or three-story house of a small area or a summer house, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the ceilings. The channel stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutch woman warms up quickly, and after attenuation it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Its strength is the ease of construction and undemanding fuel.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. A tank installed in the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for a heating system or household needs.

Swedish brick ovens combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off the accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is unlike a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish oven built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Oven ordering - Dutch
Sectional diagram of a dutch
The order of laying the hob
Schematic device of the plate Ordering a Swedish oven

Any brick oven transfers heat into the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it be in a heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

1. If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to lay out the stove in the middle, with a slight offset towards the outer wall, where the cold comes from.
2. For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
3. Suppose 1-2 small rooms adjoin the hall. There you can carry out water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a furnace heat exchanger or tank.
4. Do not plan to place the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them up, part of the heat will simply go outside.
5. The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and rude - into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the roof ridge. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the furnace body must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. Under them, it is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden elements of the roof located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with your own hands is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and necessarily full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the furnace business, except for the construction of street barbecues and barbecues.

Advice. Dutch is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it have to be ennobled, for example, overlaid with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

• red burnt brick - at least 390 pieces;
• grate grate size 25 x 25 cm;
• loading door 25 x 21 cm;
• small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
• metal shutter 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be laid out at any desired height. The indicated number of bricks is enough for the construction in a one-story private house.

The list of components and building materials for the hob:

• solid ceramic brick - 190 pieces;
• grate 25 x 5 cm;
• two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
• fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
• metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
• oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
• doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
• chimney damper;
• steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, and preferably 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is required to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

For the construction of a heating and cooking Swedish stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for laying the firebox. To install fittings, look for soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of furnaces, which are commercially available.

Foundation laying

Before folding the oven, it is necessary to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so it is unacceptable to put it directly on the floors, even those filled with cement screed. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for installing the furnace foundation:

1. Dismantle the section of the screed and dig a pit that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the furnace by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsiding soil.
2. Place a sand cushion 100 mm high and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
3. After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
4. Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete hardening of the concrete mixture), lay a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

Scheme of the base device for wooden floors

To correctly lay the foundation of the furnace under the wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, felt soaked with clay and a solid first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video

Heating of country houses is hampered by the lack of gas pipelines and stable electricity. However, this problem can be solved if you know how to properly fold the oven.

What are the ovens

Before you properly fold the stove in the house, you need to decide on its functions.

There are three types of such structures for a private house:

1. For heating. The design includes a firebox and an overall chimney with many branches. The resulting flue gases give off their heat to the surrounding space through the walls of the chimney. Such stoves, which are heated mainly in winter, are usually equipped with houses with electric or gas stoves.
2. For cooking. This appliance is intended exclusively for cooking. It is distinguished by the presence of a short straight chimney that immediately exits to the roof. A cast-iron stove is mounted on top of the firebox for cooking. In the gap between the firebox and the chimney there is a place for an oven (it provides a cooking mode, as in a Russian stove). In a similar way, summer kitchens and private houses with centralized and gas heating are usually equipped.
3. Heating and cooking. With the help of such an oven, you can cook food and heat your home at the same time. Its design consists of a hob, an oven and a massive chimney with a developed heat exchange system. The heating-cooking variety is the most widespread. With its help, both private residential cottages and small country houses are equipped.

How to choose a seat

Before you make a stove, you need to choose a place for it. In order for the stove to be efficient, convenient and safe, it must be positioned as correctly as possible inside the home. Drawings of how to fold the oven with your own hands are freely available on numerous resources.

There are certain rules governing the placement of furnaces:

• The best place to install a heating stove is the central part of the house or the largest room. This will make heat transfer as efficient as possible, because. heated air will spread evenly throughout the house. Due to the massiveness of the body, natural zoning of the premises into separate local areas is carried out. The construction of a heating furnace near one of the outer walls will significantly reduce the heating efficiency: part of the heat will be wasted outside.
• The cooking oven is usually built on the street under a canopy, or in the kitchen, right next to the outer wall. Thanks to this arrangement, even in the summer, the room will not be very hot, because the heat will partially go outside. For the same reason, it is desirable to equip the chimney in the corner of the kitchen, between two outer walls.
• The heating and cooking stove has a specific location. That part of it, where the hob and oven are located, is mounted in the kitchen room. The chimney is made slightly offset inside the interior partitions between the kitchen and other rooms. A similar instruction on how to properly fold the oven with your own hands provides simultaneous cooking and heating at home.

When the furnace is located close to a wall or an interior partition, its body must be additionally insulated with a heat-resistant non-combustible material. This can be done with asbestos sheets or rigid mineral wool boards.

Necessary materials

Before you fold the stove for your home yourself, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools for this.

The following materials will be required:

• Building bricks. They are needed in two varieties - burnt full-bodied and fireclay refractory. The raw material for the first variety, intended for the construction of the outer part of the body and the chimney, is red clay. Inside, the firebox and the chimney channel are lined with fireclay bricks: it has a lighter shade and can withstand heating up to +1200 degrees.
• Concrete solution for the foundation. It is prepared independently from cement (grade M400 or M500), sifted sand (quarry or river), crushed granite (fraction size 25-35 mm) and cold clean water. The pillow under the foundation is covered with granite rubble stone 150-250 mm in size.
• Clay-sand mortar for masonry. It consists of red clay without impurities, sifted sand (river or quarry) and pure water. Clay can be dug up in a nearby ravine or bought at a hardware store in powder form.
• Metal furnace elements. We are talking about a cast-iron grate, metal cleaning doors, cast-iron blower doors, cast-iron firebox doors, a chimney damper, a steel reinforcing mesh for the foundation, a cast-iron hob with round burners.
• Mineral wool in slabs 20-50 mm thick.
• Asbestos sheets (8-10 mm).
• Asbestos cord (3-10 mm).
• Reinforcing bars made of steel (8-12 mm).
• Roofing material (it can be replaced with polyethylene construction film).

The use of white silicate or fired hollow bricks for the construction of furnaces is prohibited. This also applies to decorative cladding elements, since it will not work to properly fold a brick oven of this type.

Tools and equipment

List of required tools:

• A pair of buckets made of eraser or metal with a volume of 8-10 liters.
• Bulgarian with a diamond cutting disc.
• Construction trowel or trowel.
• Level.
• A mallet made of plastic or rubber.
• Roulette.
• Pickaxe, furnace hammer.

• Stitching devices for decorating masonry seams.
• Rule length from 1 meter.
• Angle made of metal or wood.
• Construction slope.
• A wide bowl made of plastic or metal with a volume of 40 liters or more.
• Drill or rotary hammer of sufficient power.
• Mixing nozzle for preparing the solution.
• Scoop shovel;
• Large metal sieve for sifting sand.

Construction of the furnace foundation

Before you fold the stove yourself in the country, you will need to lay the foundation first. It is arranged separately on the ground, not connected with the main foundation of the house.

We put the base of the furnace with our own hands step by step in the following sequence of operations:

1. Preparation of concrete mortar brand M200. In a container for mortar, 3.5 buckets of sand and one bucket of cement are mixed. After diluting the dry mixture with water, thorough mixing is carried out until a slightly fluid homogeneous mass is formed. Crushed stone is poured into the resulting slurry in the amount of 5-6 buckets, after which it is brought to the state of a homogeneous thick solution. To make the concrete more plastic, it is allowed to add a little liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to it.
2. Digging a pit. For the foundation, you need to dig a pit 45-60 cm deep. Its dimensions on each side should be greater than the dimensions of the furnace. The bottom of the trench is rammed, and the side walls are reinforced with plank or plywood formwork. Next, a sand cushion 10-15 cm high is poured, and a rubble stone with a layer of 15-25 cm is poured on it. Sometimes the walls are reinforced not with formwork, but with pieces of roofing material.
3. Pouring solution. At the bottom of the trench, a reinforcing harness is equipped, for which a reinforcing harness made of welded reinforcing bars or steel pipes is used. Concrete is poured in several portions. To achieve a good density, the solution is pierced to the bottom with a wooden lath or a piece of reinforcement: this allows the air that has accumulated inside to come out. The upper part of the base is reinforced with steel reinforcing mesh. On top of it, a finishing layer of concrete 2-4 cm thick is formed.
4. Leveling and solidification of the foundation. A rule is used to level the poured concrete mortar. It is necessary to achieve strict horizontality of the upper surface of the base: it should be inferior to the level of the finished floor by 8-12 cm. After that, the foundation is covered with a film of polyethylene, leaving it in this position for about 7 days until the solution completely hardens.

In houses with already laid flooring, it is temporarily dismantled before assembling the stove with your own hands. Another option is to cut an opening to the size of the structure being constructed, making a margin of 20 cm on each side.

Bricklaying - step by step instructions

The procedure for folding a simple oven with a stove of any kind consists of two stages:

1. Dry masonry. At this stage, the bricks are laid out without the use of mortar. This approach allows you to better understand how to shift the furnace, understand the design of its smoke channels, and identify possible problem areas. When dry laying, gaps of the same size are left between the bricks: inside them there will be a masonry mixture. For these purposes, plywood or wooden spacers 5 mm thick can be used. Dry laying is carried out to the place where the chimney begins. Next, each of the rows must be numbered and dismantled.
2. Main masonry. If the first stage did not cause any difficulties, they proceed to the main procedure, how to fold a small oven with your own hands. For its implementation, a clay solution is required. The reference here is the ordinal scheme and numbered brick rows.

The following do-it-yourself oven step-by-step instructions are offered:

1. Preparation of masonry mixture. Dry clay powder must be soaked for a day in water. After that, the soaked material is mixed with small portions of sand: it is more convenient to knead the solution manually, until lumps and seals completely disappear. The volume of added sand directly depends on the fat content of the clay, and can reach 100% of the total mass of the mixture. A sign of a good quality clay solution is that it slides off the shovel, without sticking to its surface. Dry clay powders of factory preparation do not need pre-soaking.
2. Laying the lower rows. How to put a brick oven depends on its efficiency. The upper surface of the base must be waterproofed. For these purposes, bituminous mastic or a couple of layers of roofing material are suitable. On top of the roofing material, the marking of the contour of the base of the future structure is applied. The first two brick rows are laid solid on top of the roofing material. The second row is mounted in such a way that its joints do not coincide with the joints of the first.
3. Arrangement of a blower and cleaning channels. With the help of the third and fourth brick rows, a niche is laid out under the blower and cleaning cavities of the chimney.
4. Door installation. To fix cast-iron doors in masonry, they must be equipped with holes in the corner area of ​​the frames. A soft steel wire of such a size is inserted into the holes made so that a piece 30-40 cm long peeks out from each edge. For sealing, an asbestos cord must be fixed on each frame. Having installed the doors in the desired position, pieces of wire are laid in the solution of the seam of the upper and lower brick row.

How to fold the firebox yourself

The outer part of the furnace body is allowed to be built from ordinary red brick. The firebox and the smoke channel are made exclusively with fireclay material.

Construction of the hearth base

Before you make a firebox for the furnace, you need to build a base under it: for this, the fourth brick row is used. The lower fireclay elements are equipped with a quarter-brick sample for laying the grate. Its function is to separate the firebox and blower. The fifth row serves as a stand for the side walls of the firebox and separators of the vertical air ducts.

Firebox

The laying of the sixth, seventh and eighth rows is carried out in a similar way. The furnace door is built into the side wall over the blower, starting from the sixth row. It is fixed and installed in the same way as the main one. In order to avoid the appearance of reverse thrust, provoked by turbulent swirls of flue gases, the tops of the brick row in the bridge between the firebox and the chimney are made slightly rounded.

firebox top

After the firebox in the furnace is folded, another brick row is laid out on top of the firebox door. Inside the firebox around the perimeter, a quarter with a depth of 12-15 mm is selected for laying the asbestos cord. For its impregnation, a liquid solution of clay is used. A cast-iron hob is mounted on top of the cord: it is necessary to ensure that its upper surface is flush with the upper brick row.

Top and side walls

The temperature of the furnace gases at the top of the chimney channels is much lower than inside the furnace: this allows further construction to be carried out with ordinary red brick.

Do-it-yourself hob

A continuation of the vertical smoke cavities is laid out on top of the hob. The same applies to the side walls of the furnace, the purpose of which is not only external decoration, but also to improve the strength characteristics of the structure. This part is raised in height by no more than 6-7 rows.

Visor

The cooking part is made out with a protective visor, which preserves the surrounding space of the house from splashing grease and puffs of steam. It is placed at a height of 40-45 cm above the surface of the plate. The overhanging rows are reinforced with a 32x32 mm steel angle installed at the bottom.

Channels for smoke

The top of the chimneys above the visor is laid out at a height of 9 brick rows. In this case, the upper part of the partition (3 rows), from the first to the second channel, is not fully reported. Flue gases will subsequently circulate inside this niche. The third smoke channel between the last and the penultimate brick row is formed with a slide gate.

Upper part of the furnace

The topmost row over the first and second smoke channels must be solid. The cavity of the third channel is left open, since the chimney pipe leading to the roof will be connected to it. The chimney is equipped with a cap on top, for which you need 1-2 rows of bricks.

External design

After a simple do-it-yourself oven is folded, its external design is carried out. If the masonry is done carefully, additional finishing is usually not carried out. To do this, it is important to embroider brick seams with high quality and beautifully, for which special tools are used. In some cases, stove wall plastering can be used if the interior of the room requires it. For these purposes, the same material is used as for laying bricks (it is recommended to give preference to clay mixtures of industrial preparation).

For the device of stove heating of small country cottages or country houses, in order to save materials and money, it makes sense to choose projects of heating stoves made of bricks of small dimensions and simple in execution. Then, having acquired building materials in accordance with the project, you can get down to business on your own, having previously studied how the laying of stoves is done with your own hands.

Heating and cooking stove

What type of stove to choose?

At the very beginning, you need to decide what the design of the furnace will be in your home. To do this, you need to study the existing types of stoves for the home and choose the appropriate option for yourself from the proposed list:

• Dutch channel-type stoves and the like take up the least space, are the easiest to build and are undemanding to materials. They work more in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, the efficiency is low - 40%.
• The chamber-channel Swedish brick oven for the home is more efficient than the “Dutch”, its efficiency is up to 60%, it also takes up a little space, but is somewhat more difficult to implement. In addition, building materials should be selected very carefully.
• Russian stoves are the most efficient, their efficiency reaches 75%, but laying the stove is extremely difficult, it will not work without an experienced specialist.
• A heating and cooking stove with a built-in water heat exchanger is the simplest version of a heater. Its construction will take the least materials, and the simplicity of the design allows even a beginner to do all the work with their own hands, only a serious and scrupulous approach is needed.

Advice. If you have completely no experience in masonry work, then for self-construction it is better to choose a "Dutch" or a hob, the construction of stoves - "Swede" is somewhat more complicated and requires experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, it is not recommended to take it on yourself.

Next, you should understand where and how much space you are ready to allocate for construction, as well as the number of rooms heated by the stove. If the house is small, then the heat source can be placed in the wall between the rooms, so that each one warms up from the back or side wall of the brick oven. The figure shows examples of the placement of various heaters inside the building.

The first diagram on the left shows the placement of a stove for a brick house with a stove bench in the bedroom and heating of other adjacent rooms: living room, hallway and bathroom. The second diagram shows where you can put a heating and cooking stove with hot water for hot water. Between the two bedrooms it is planned to build a "Dutch" type heater with the output of the loading chamber to the living room. The third diagram shows an example of a country house, where the same stove heats the kitchen and bathroom, and there is a fireplace in the living room.

The principle by which the placement and construction of the furnace takes place is simple: direct heating from its walls should capture as many rooms as possible, and when this does not work out, it is better to use furnace schemes with a built-in water heating coil. In this case, the rest of the rooms will be heated by heating radiators.

masonry brick

In order for a do-it-yourself brick oven to work efficiently and durable, it is necessary to choose the appropriate building materials for its construction, in particular brick. Not only the strength and durability of the structure depends on this choice, but also its thermophysical properties that provide comfort in your home.

It is especially important to choose the right quality materials if you are planning to fold the Swede oven. For the "Dutch", the requirements for the quality of bricks and masonry mortar are not so high.

Previously, brick ovens were entirely made of red clay bricks, but now they are used in 2 types:

• red ceramic brand 150;
• refractory fireclay.

In the past, the sizes of stove bricks and ordinary building bricks were different. If the dimensions of the building single are 250 x 125 x 65 mm, then the stove stone was 230 x 114 x 40 mm or 230 x 114 x 65 mm. In our time, for convenience, the dimensions have been unified, so the selection is reduced to assessing the quality of the material. Here are some recommendations for acquiring the material from which brick heating stoves are laid:

• Stones should be purchased in the same size.
• You can not use a hollow brick, and even more so silicate. Only a full-bodied ceramic stone is needed.
• For facing masonry, it is better to take stones with a decorative texture, if it is not planned to finish the walls with additional tiles or other facing material.
• In the combustion chamber, the brickwork must be refractory, made of fireclay stone.

Work instructions

After the scheme of the heating furnace is selected, a foundation device is required for it. The exception is small "Dutch" and heating and cooking stoves, which do not exert a large load on the floors. The latter can be erected directly from the cement floor screed, having completed all the measures for thermal and waterproofing, discussed below.

In other cases, the heating furnace should rest on a foundation, preferably a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation. Its dimensions make it 50 mm larger than the dimensions of the building itself, the thickness of the plate is 100-150 mm, depending on the load. The foundation is performed separately, not in contact with the base of the building.

Before making a brick oven, the foundation slab must stand for at least 2 weeks, after which waterproofing is laid on top of it (roofing material in 2-3 layers), followed by sheets of asbestos or basalt cardboard for thermal insulation. Then a sheet of roofing steel and a felt litter are laid, from which the laying of the stove begins. The litter must first be wetted, and after laying, allow it to dry to the metal. Now you can proceed directly to the construction of the walls.

First of all, you should figure out where to start laying. For this, there are special schemes, they reflect in detail each row of stones, starting from the base and ending with the chimney. When you have chosen a certain type of heat source and found or purchased project documentation for its construction, then it necessarily shows the serial laying of furnaces of this type. Below, as an example, is the order of a small "Dutch" with a size of 520 x 520 mm.

Next, you need to prepare a mortar for laying stoves from white or yellowish clay with the addition of quartz sand in a ratio of 1: 1. In this case, it is not recommended to use water with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts (hard water). Before cooking, the clay is soaked in water and left for a day, after which it is passed through a sieve with a cell of 3 x 3 mm. This process is carried out by wiping, since a mixture of clay and water cannot otherwise be passed through a sieve. Then sand is added and kneading is done with a gradual addition of water. The final solution in consistency should resemble thick sour cream.

The sides of the masonry stone have their own names, they determine the type of masonry. The traditional laying of brick ovens is spoon and bonder. This means that from the front side of the wall we can see the sides of the stone with the corresponding names. Bed laying is extremely rare, and for the construction of stoves it is not allowed at all. The wall is built with dressing, that is, the vertical seams between the stones should not match.

The process starts from the first row and on, constantly referring to the diagram, which shows the ordinal masonry. In this work, there is no need to rush, the emphasis should be on quality. It is better for a beginner to first lay each row dry, without mortar, based on the drawings. After making sure that the laying is correct, apply mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

Remove excess clay, achieving a joint thickness of not more than 3 mm and not less than 2 mm. In some places, it is possible to make thickening of the seam up to 5 mm. The stone must be put immediately in place, moving and tapping is not allowed. Excess clay mixture removed from the stones cannot be used again.

Additional instructions for masonry to be followed, for convenience, are given in the form of a short list:

• Each stone is placed, resting it on 2 others.
• The first and last rows are bonded.
• To avoid delamination, vertical seams are filled with mortar.
• The bricks of each subsequent row must overlap the stones of the previous one by at least ¼ of the length.
• Coincidence of bonder and spoon rows is not allowed.
• The hemmed sides of the stones are placed inside, and not outside the walls.

To lay out a brick oven yourself, it will take a lot of personal time and patience. There are no irresponsible nodes or parts here, each brick matters. If you approach the issue carefully and responsibly, the result will be healthy warmth and comfort in your home.