Proper ceiling plaster - step-by-step guide. Leveling ceilings with plaster How to properly plaster a ceiling with gypsum plaster

Any repair begins with a rough finishing of all surfaces. First of all, the ceiling is prepared and sufficient time and effort should be devoted to this process, since it will be created perfectly the first time. flat surface can be quite difficult.

Today we will find out how to plaster a ceiling with your own hands, how to mask or correct small flaws on the surface after preparing it, how to cheaply repair a ceiling after damage, and what preparation requirements are necessary for certain finishing materials.

Choosing between dry and wet method

Before starting the repair process, you should study some of the features of leveling ceilings. At the moment, there are such ways to level it:

The dry method is not used so often, but allows you to create a perfectly even base in the shortest possible time. Drywall is used as a consumable material, the joints of which are subsequently puttied. This investment cannot be called minimal and, unfortunately, it is not suitable for all homes. Plasterboard sheets used in the case of neglected ceilings
The wet option is ideal when you need to cover small defects or prepare the ceiling for painting. For surfaces with differences exceeding 4-5 cm, it is necessary to use plaster, and for unevenness of 4-5 mm, putty is used. Uneven ceiling does not stand out as attractive and when the height differences on it are more than 5 cm, a suspended ceiling or gypsum board slabs should be chosen as a design

Important! When applying a thick layer of plaster, the coating may begin to crack, crumble, or fall off in pieces, which threatens not only damage to the repair, but even injury. If you notice cracks on a plastered ceiling, you should not wait for it to collapse - dismantle it.

Features of plaster

Before you start using a plaster solution, you need to find out all its pros and cons, and then clarify how to properly prepare the mixture with your own hands. Walks among home craftsmen large number recipes and proportions, but today we will look at the standards of preparation and the advantages of such plasters.

Advantages	Flaws
Eco-friendly and safe	The maximum permissible layer of plaster is 5 cm
Compared to others this cheap way preparation of grounds	Do-it-yourself plastering requires skill
High-quality material can be used in homes where allergy sufferers and people with respiratory diseases live	Professional services are expensive, especially when it comes to ceiling planes, which require more effort and time.
Soundproof
Slightly reduces ceiling height

Plaster for the ceiling is selected not only according to price preferences, but also according to the stated characteristics of the material. High-quality plasters are sold in construction stores and have quality certificates.

Main types of mixtures

Plaster for the ceiling of the house, which one to choose and how much does it cost? - a question that worries any newcomer to the plan repair work. Among the variety of finishing mixtures, the main ones can be identified:

Ready-made based on polymers - ceiling preparation with their help is carried out on top level. The advantage is the ease of use of the solution, which does not need to be diluted. However, this is an expensive choice for large ceiling defects - at the stage of full-scale leveling ready-made mixtures are unprofitable
Cement - soundproofing, act as insulation; to improve the quality, you can add lime and sand. Lime and sand plasters do not shrink
Gypsum - gypsum has good adhesion to concrete surfaces. They are easier to work with and have an average pricing policy. The plaster fits perfectly on concrete and brick walls.

Before you start plastering the ceiling, let's look at popular and sought-after manufacturers of putty mixtures:

Rotband from Knauf is an excellent alternative to long-drying mixtures. Among the advantages are a harmless composition, fast drying speed, and compatibility with additional insulation. As with any process, surfaces must be primed before plastering.
Eunice - makes it possible to set a good start for finishing. The reason for this frequent choice lies in the increased strength of the material. In addition, there is no need to whiten the base with finishing putties. With the help of Yunis, you can cover up recesses up to 5 cm and apply layers up to 3 cm without losing the declared properties. At correct application material collapse is minimized
Rotgypsum - for dry and damp rooms when a special primer is used. The minimum consumption is 8 kg per 1 m2 with a thickness of 10 mm, it is manufactured in accordance with GOST standards, and has supporting documents. Unlike cement, it sets within an hour, which is why it should be worked out within this period of time. Strengthens the surface. Rotgypsum can be used to create a thick layer, which sometimes reaches 50 mm
Volma - thanks to different packaging, you can buy plaster in 5kn, 15kg, 20kg, 30kg. This is very convenient when processing both small and large areas. The application standards for this brand require use in rooms with moderate temperature changes. Most often, Volma is used to level crooked walls, but it can also be placed on a crooked ceiling. Before applying the material, there is no need to sand the substrate or even prime it. For applied plaster, only a clean base is important
Vetonit - various plasters are produced, which are applied to brick, plywood, fiberglass, OSB, fiberboard, plasterboard sheets, wooden surfaces and external walls. Dry mixtures are easy to use, the finished solution has a service life of 2-3 hours, and the finished base can withstand up to 100 freeze-thaw cycles

Important! Photo and video lessons teach beginners how to level a ceiling with plaster themselves, how to calculate required quantity mixtures, how to make an estimate for further work, what proportions to use when making plaster and how to hide a small flaw by creating a pattern on the ceiling with putty.

Sometimes it is simply impossible to carry out repair processes yourself due to a number of reasons. Then qualified specialists can come to the rescue and need to be paid for their services. Let's find out what the prices for plaster ceilings are per m2. A small table shows prices for certain processes:

In addition, textured, structural, Venetian putties and bark beetle can be used as finishing materials. With their help, a special style is created on the ceiling, beautiful drawings and patterns that are in demand not only in ordinary apartment rooms, but also in the loft.

Leveling and preparation, tools

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands for painting with video and photo materials makes it possible to clearly learn about the nuances of the entire process. But now we will find out what tools are needed for alignment:

Primer and mixtures for plaster
Roller and brushes
Plastic tray
Spatulas
Level
Construction mixer
Hand grater
Rule

Important! When you don't have construction mixer at hand, you can use special nozzle for stirring, which is put on the drill.

Finishing begins with cleaning the ceiling. You need to remove old wallpaper, peeling paint, wash off dirt, and remove dust. For concrete ceiling soil will do concrete contact, which creates a good adhesive coating. It is necessary to clean the ceiling when previous repairs included puttying. To do this, use a rag and water to wash off the coating and remove it with a spatula. There are adhesive mixtures that include antiseptic additives - with their help, mold and mildew do not develop on the surface.

When the base is already damaged, the technology includes additional treatment with specialized mixtures. The cost of such materials is low. The primers are applied in two layers, with an hour and a half break between them. When the base is completely dry, all that remains is to mark the differences, mark the place where there are large irregularities, and mix required solution and plaster the ceiling. Follow this sequence:

Mark the lowest point of the ceiling - this will be the final height
Beacons need to be leveled and secured with plaster or alabaster
Select a corner of the wall and start from there - the texture of the mixture should be thick; kneading for beacons is best done by hand
In order for the ceiling to last for a long time, pay attention to the temperature at which you prepare the plaster and under what conditions you use it. When the room temperature is more than 23-25 degrees, use a spray bottle to spray and moisten. To create a high-quality and continuous layer, install a grid
Plaster can be applied using a machine method - mechanization of the process allows you to speed up the leveling work. Mechanical option will do for private homes when there is a compressor at hand
For one layer, a thickness of 10-20 mm is sufficient; when unevenness exceeds this figure, you will need to plaster in several layers. As a result, the beacon should sink a little into construction mixture. Too thin a solution will drip, so when you prepare the plaster yourself, control its thickness
On average, subsequent work is allowed 24 hours after leveling, but in some places the ceiling may take a little longer to dry. It is better to putty large areas with dry solutions - they are much more economical

Important! All arched decorative baguettes, the skirting boards are glued after the cladding is completed. Metal corners help to bring out internal corners.

You can glue the trellises or paint the base after the ceiling has completely dried and is a solid white color - if there are stains, you will need to re-prime and level it. IN panel houses, balconies, kitchens and other rooms are not distinguished by their evenness; in some cases, significant differences in height are better covered suspended ceilings. Stretch PVC ceiling takes less time and effort, but when there are beams in the room, it is better to call specialists. Advantages suspended ceilings The fact is that you can choose matte or glossy fabrics, patterns or plain fabrics.

People use finishing materials such as plaster to decorate walls and ceilings. various rooms for hundreds of years. , even despite the appearance the latest materials and technology still remains relevant. Although suspended and tensile structures look quite practical, aesthetically pleasing and modern, they still “take up” part of the space, which often does small rooms even tighter.

Despite the emergence of the latest materials and technologies on the construction market, ceiling plaster remains one of the most popular methods for finishing the ceiling.

It is worth noting the high cost of modern finishing materials. Today, not everyone can afford to install a suspended ceiling in their home. Therefore, finishing the upper floors with plaster still remains the most economical option. However, today not everyone still knows how to plaster a ceiling with their own hands and what is needed for this.

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The main advantages of plastering the ceiling

Leveling walls with plaster, although it takes a lot of time and is a rather labor-intensive process, still has a number of advantages over other finishing methods. Namely:

In order for the final result of ceiling plaster to be without flaws, it is necessary to adhere to the direction diagram.

Allows you to save space - its losses are minimized, since a layer of plaster in most cases only slightly lowers the ceiling level (no more than 3 cm).
It is one of the cheapest finishing options - the cost of materials is low and quite affordable for almost everyone. And independent will only require minimum costs(for material and tools).
It is universal - this means that the plaster mixture can be applied to any ceiling(made of concrete, wood, etc.). Correctly selected composition of the material for any qualitative basis will hold up equally well and reliably, provided, of course, that the plastering technology is followed.

Before you look at the step-by-step instructions on how to plaster on our own, what is required for this and how to do it correctly, a few words should be said about the plaster itself.

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Plaster: types and applications

Plaster is a thick paste-like mixture that can be applied to the prepared surface in a small layer.

Depending on what properties it has, the plaster can be quite an independent species coating and serve as the basis for further finishing.
On top of this finishing material for final leveling, another mixture of similar consistency, called putty, is usually applied.

Plaster solution is a thick paste-like mixture that must be applied to the surface in a thin layer.

Plaster is usually divided into two main types:

1. Gypsum-based material.
2. Cement based material.

The cost of the second type of plaster is slightly lower than the first. However, if the price of the material is not so important, it is better to use a gypsum-based mixture for plaster. And here are the reasons. Firstly, with gypsum plaster It’s much easier and more convenient to work with than with cement-based ones. This is due to the fact that such a mixture has a finer dispersion, resulting in a more even and high-quality coating. When finishing the ceiling with such plaster, it is quite possible to do without applying putty. In addition, gypsum has excellent insulating properties, which can make the indoor climate more favorable.

However, to plaster the ceiling, one mixture is not enough. More will be needed special tools, which can be purchased at the same hardware store or borrowed from friends or relatives.

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What is needed to finish the ceiling with plaster?

To plaster the ceiling you will need: a gypsum-based mixture, a primer, a spatula, a level, a wide brush, etc.

You will need the following materials and tools:

Plaster mixture (dry) based on gypsum or cement.

Deep penetration primer (preferably with an antiseptic).

A low-speed drill with any attachment for mixing the mixture or a hammer drill.

Capacity.

Sieve.

Trowel (a spatula with a handle on top).

Level.

Aluminum rule.

Beacons.

Wide brush.

Bucket of water.

Rags.

Coarse sandpaper.

Protective equipment (glasses and gloves).

When everything is purchased and prepared, you can start working directly. In order to finish the ceiling with a paste mixture as correctly as possible, it is necessary to follow certain rules and sequence of work. They are not at all complicated, so even a beginner in this matter can cope with finishing the ceiling with plaster.

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The main stages of finishing the ceiling with plaster

Before starting plastering, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the ceiling of previous finishes.

Before applying the plaster mixture to the ceiling, its surface should first be carefully prepared: cleaned of all kinds of contaminants and dried. Using a wide brush, apply a primer with an antiseptic to a clean, dry ceiling, which will protect it from the appearance of fungi and mold and allow the mixture to better adhere to the surface.

Important! If the ceiling was simply covered with whitewash, then it should be washed away with a rag soaked in warm water. If the ceiling was covered with paint, it should be removed mechanically or using special chemicals. If it was covered with wallpaper, then it should be removed, having first moistened it abundantly. warm water. Wooden ceilings should be covered with shingles before applying plaster. If the surface of the ceiling is too smooth, then for better adhesion of the material to the ceiling, it is better to roughen the latter. To do this, you need to apply small notches.

To get a perfectly flat, aesthetically attractive ceiling, you need to level it with a plaster mixture along the beacons using an aluminum rule. You should not use a tool that is too long (the most optimal size is 1.5 m), as this may create some inconvenience in the work. Installation of beacons is carried out as follows.

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Installation of beacons

Before applying plaster, it is necessary to install beacons to ensure the ceiling is perfectly flat.

On the ceiling, using a level, the lowest point is determined, from which a straight line is drawn from one edge of the surface to the other. Then a thickly mixed mixture should be applied to this same line at intervals of approximately 8-15 cm. The outer beacons must be positioned in such a way that there is a small gap (about 10 cm) between them and the wall. This is necessary so that it is convenient to work with the rule and remove excess plaster mixture with it.

The remaining beacons should be placed parallel to the first ones at a distance of about 1 m from each other. Each subsequent one must be set so that one edge of the level lies on the already installed beacon, and the other on the one that is just being set. After installing all the beacons, you need to wait some time for the mixture to harden and securely strengthen all the slats.

Plastering a ceiling with your own hands is quite commonplace. Many people do this. The work is not that difficult, but the cost of finishing will be significantly lower.

Today we will tell you how to plaster a ceiling for painting. Also in the video in this article you can watch individual moments of the work and do everything better.

Rules for plastering the ceiling

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands must be done in a certain sequence and in compliance with generally accepted rules. It's time-tested.

Let's look at this issue in more detail and outline what you need to pay attention to first. Instructions on these issues are outlined below.

The putty process is divided into the following stages:

Preparation	The first stage is preparing the ceiling surface. During surface preparation, all irregularities are removed and dirt is cleaned. A hammer drill is used in this step.
Priming	In the next stage, the surface is primed special composition(see How to prime a ceiling: we’ll figure it out step by step), which has the ability to penetrate deep cracks. At this stage we use paint brush and a roller.
Start application	At this stage, a preliminary layer of putty is applied. The function of this layer is to cover all small irregularities on the surface. You need to keep in mind that the finished solution is similar to thick sour cream. A metal polisher is used in this step.
Finishing	This stage is the final stage of applying putty. It is recommended to apply the solution in two layers. If the room has ventilation and the temperature remains stable at approximately 18 degrees, then finishing putty You can start four hours after applying the preliminary coat. If these conditions are absent, then the main putty should be applied only every other day.

Regardless of the leveling method you choose, you need to remember that before painting the ceiling you need to apply a primer. You can use the same paint that will be applied to the surface as a primer.

Preparation and priming of the plane

Plastering a ceiling for painting will be more difficult than simply plastering it for another coating. After all, in this case you need to have a perfectly flat and smooth plane.

All work is done in the following order:

First you need to remove the previous coating. This is wallpaper or paint (see How to remove paint from a ceiling: do it yourself). We should see the base plane. If there are cracks, then they are expanded with a chisel.
Now you need to decide on the application layer. To do this, simply take the fishing line and stretch it diagonally. Then we will see everything at once;
If the required layer exceeds two cm, then the coating will need to be applied in layers. First do the alignment, it can be done quite simply cement composition. And after that apply the finish, this is suitable for gypsum composition. There is not a large fraction here and we will get a smooth surface.
We need a high-quality base; for this the plane is primed. It is better to give preference to deep penetration liquid. After application, let the surface dry completely.

If this wood covering, then shingles are applied. After all, the solution simply won’t stick to the wood;
If it is concrete, then you need to make notches on the plane with an ax, then the composition will stick better;
If the application layer is more than two cm, then it is necessary to mandatory attach reinforcing mesh. It will enhance the coverage.

How to apply the starting layer

When applying the solution, two spatulas are used, one of which has a narrow blade and the other a wide blade.

So:

Using a narrow spatula, take a little mixture and apply it to a wide spatula. You should strive to apply the mixture along the central part of the blade. After this, the mixture should be applied to the ceiling so that its entire surface touches the surface of the ceiling.
Here we don’t really need a smooth plane; we need to maintain its geometry. The layer is applied no more than two cm.
We are waiting for the coating to dry. After this, you can apply a second layer. So we cover the entire ceiling with the starting layer.

Putty and sanding

Painting with polyvinyl acetate water-based compositions Plastering ceilings is done on a completely smooth and even plane. Painting requires quality. Therefore, the finishing layer must be perfectly even and smooth. For this purpose, gypsum composition is mostly used.

He has a small faction. Plastering ceilings with your own hands, the video will show you how to do the job correctly.

You must strive to apply the mixture in a smooth and even layer, because after one movement it will be impossible to go back and correct unevenness.
To prevent streaks from forming on the applied area, hold the spatula in your hand at an angle to the surface of the ceiling. The angle allows the center portion of the spatula to apply material, while the two sides of the spatula perform their own functions.
That part of the spatula, which is lower from the central part, slides over the untreated area, and the other part in the area where the mixture has already been applied does not touch the surface due to the angle. This way you can avoid unevenness and streaks.
The choice of spatula is a very important part of the whole process, since the quality of the putty also depends on the characteristics of the chosen tool. A correctly selected spatula should have a medium-hard blade; if the blade is too soft, the blade of the spatula will sag too easily, which will significantly interfere with the application of the mixture.
If the spatula bends, its side edges will turn into the front and during the application of the material they will contribute to the formation of stripes, so even a completely new spatula is processed using a file that sharpens its edges. And so, a correctly selected and well-modified spatula will provide a perfectly smooth and even surface.

After applying a layer of putty, wait for the composition to dry completely. After that, take a grater and rub it in a circular motion.
After treatment, shells will remain on the surface; they need to be puttied. liquid composition. In this case, it is better to use a rubber spatula.

Attention: If you have a large surface, then you should use grinder. In this case, you will significantly reduce the work time and save your energy.
Plastering the ceiling with your own hands, the video will of course show everything, but it’s up to you to do it. When working, do not rush. Use only materials from trusted manufacturers and then the coating will serve you for many years.

Many who have encountered finishing works, they know that the most difficult thing is to achieve ideal evenness of surfaces. But many people live in houses where the ceiling is made of slabs that form uneven surfaces and terrible joints. If the floor and walls turn out to be more convenient areas, then plastering the ceiling is not something everyone can do. At the same time, using other options for leveling is simply impractical or impossible. Therefore, you need to be patient and follow the necessary rules.

Before starting work, the eternal dilemma arises - what material is better to use? Doubts arise due to the wealth of choice that buyers now have. Really, construction stores filled with various mixtures, but you should focus on three main ones:

Ready-made solutions based on polymers. They meet all the needs that arise when plastering the ceiling with your own hands. There is also a significant drawback - high price. Considering that large irregularities have to be corrected, then financial costs will be big enough.
Cement-sand mixtures. These are excellent materials to which lime is additionally added. They require some skill to work with, but they do not shrink (if used correctly).
Gypsum compositions. It seems that this best option For self-use. Of course, they will not lie on the surface themselves, but plastering with such mixtures is much easier. In addition, they have excellent adhesion to concrete bases.

Plaster mixtures for ceilings

Note! You need to be careful when choosing material. The fact is that many manufacturers indicate on their packaging that the composition is intended exclusively for working with ceiling structures. This is a marketing ploy, because such a product will cost several times more than identical options.

Choosing a method for performing plastering work

Plastering is done in two ways:

using beacons;
without using them.

The second method is best left to specialists who have such extensive experience that they do not need unnecessary equipment. For a beginner, this option can be used independently only when the ceiling is first leveled with gypsum board slabs. In this case, it turns out that the applied layer will act as finishing coating. All you need to do is putty the drywall and its joints.

It’s worth noting right away that it is often necessary to provide for the use of reinforcing mesh, and to divide the work into several stages. That is, if the layer is more than 50 mm, then it should not be applied immediately, but should be formed sequentially.

Attention! If the expected layer is more than 5 cm, and the work is carried out over a large area, then it is better to abandon this option immediately. The fact is that there is a high probability of cracks and collapse.

We invite you to additionally watch a video that tells you how to plaster a ceiling with your own hands without beacons.

Padding

Many people have a question: why is this necessary? After all, modern materials, and especially the inscriptions on them, indicate that they can be applied immediately. Therefore, many who decided to plaster the surface without pre-treatment, find themselves in an unpleasant situation. Namely, it simply falls off in pieces and becomes covered with numerous cracks. And all because the technology was violated, which implies mandatory priming.

The event itself is quite simple, you just need to mix the primer thoroughly and apply it to the required areas. But there are some tricks:

When working with the base, the composition is applied in two layers. The first saturates the pores and binds them, the second fixes and strengthens the result.
If the ceiling is plastered in several stages, then it is necessary to apply a primer after each layer. To do this, allow the surface to dry and then prime it. It's not worth saving. The costs are not that high, but the effect is significant.
If the ceiling is being prepared for painting, then before painting it must be coated with this mixture. Two are achieved at once positive points. Firstly, paint consumption is reduced. Secondly, the surface turns out much more beautiful.

Priming is mandatory and very important stage plastering works

Do not allow dust to fall on the areas treated with the solution. Otherwise, the entire effect will be reduced to zero, and it may become even worse. We'll have to clean the ceiling again.

Sealing joints

As already noted, most apartments have ceilings made of reinforced concrete slabs. There are designs that have significant deviations. In this case, plastering will be quite difficult and expensive. And if it can be avoided, then it is better to do so.

Note! The main disadvantage of suspended ceilings and gypsum plasterboards is the reduction in room height. At least 10 centimeters are lost. But, if a layer of plaster is expected to be more than 40-50 mm, then this option becomes quite controversial.

In any case, it is necessary to seal all joints (seams) of the slabs.

The joints between the floor slabs must be sealed, regardless of the final finish of the ceiling

This is done as follows:

The old composition is completely removed. It is better to use a hammer and chisel.
It happens that the difference between the slabs causes an influx of the mixture. This area must be cleaned.
The surface is cleaned wire brush and remove dust and dirt. It turns out that a gap is formed, which can be quite deep. To seal it, two methods are used:
Everything is flooded polyurethane foam. This is done carefully so that there are no significant protrusions. If there are any, then after waiting for complete drying, they are cut off with a construction knife.
The cracks are clogged with rags, which is pre-impregnated with liquid plaster.
Be sure to prime the area, penetrating into the depth of the seam.
Next, the joint is covered with the first layer of plaster. It should hide the gap.
Without letting it dry, they stick it on reinforced tape. Apply a second layer.

Step by step instructions plastering joints between concrete slabs

Note! It should be remembered that above the slabs or in a layer old plaster– passes electrical cable. You need to be careful. If possible, it is better to change it to new wire. So as not to have to redo the work later.

If there are no cracks in the ceiling tiles, then their joints are treated a little differently:

The seams are slightly unstitched and primed.
Apply a leveling layer of the mixture and let it set.
Install the reinforcing tape and level the surface with a second layer.

Tool

Before plastering the ceiling, you need to make sure that the tool is always at hand. You will need:

Drill of sufficient power. Of course, there are special mixers, but they are expensive, for home renovation It is not advisable to purchase them (if this is a one-time job).
Nozzle for mixing the solution (mixer).
Rule. There are options that have a built-in level. It's very convenient.
Set of spatulas.
Falcon.
A laser level is better.

Main works

How plastering will be carried out depends on the curvature of the surface. If it is insignificant, then the work will be done quite quickly and simply:

The ceiling is primed in two layers.
Plaster is applied to the ceiling and distributed according to the rule.
If required, add more mixture. The result should be a flat surface.

But things are completely different when the error is more than 6 mm. You will need to use beacons. This is the only way to get a truly flat ceiling.

Advice from experienced craftsmen:

When mixing gypsum or other dry mortar, be sure to wait 10-15 minutes. After this, repeat stirring. This time is required for the mixture to fully acquire its properties.
For greater convenience, when a large area of work is expected, it is better to assemble a device called a goat. The process will be quite tedious, because you will have to hold your hands up and throw your head back for a long time.

Plastering the ceiling begins with the preparation already described. All specified work must be completed.

The installation of beacons should begin with determining the elevation differences. In order to do this quickly and accurately, it is better to use a device for constructing planes (laser). Do this:

The device is installed above the ceiling.
Turn on horizontal scanning.
Measurements are taken in several places. Measure the distance from the ceiling to the horizontal beam.
All readings are recorded on the ceiling.
It becomes immediately clear where the minimum and maximum differences are.

Why is this required? Having determined these indicators, you can calculate the required layer. This is done according to the principle: up to 5 mm is added to the most significant deviation.

Note! If there is no laser device, then you can do without simple level. To do this, horizontal lines are cut along the perimeter of the walls. The indentation point is taken as the total distance from the floor. The level is applied with one end to the line, and holding the other end, they walk around the room. Thus, it is possible to calculate the necessary indicators.

Beacons can be installed. They are perforated strips. They have a protruding back, with the help of which the solution is leveled. The dimensions of these devices may vary, but it is better to select those that are slightly larger than the largest deviation.

Installation is performed as follows:

The length of the rule is taken as a basis. It is better to use a tool that will be no more than 150 cm. The distance between the beacons is made smaller (120-130 cm).
Lighthouses are placed at a distance of 30 cm from the walls.
The profiles are fastened using gypsum mixture. It is kneaded until thick.
Lines are marked on the ceiling. This is done for convenience. You can immediately apply the solution without being distracted by measurements. They do it pointwise.
The beacons are pressed in and the accuracy of the installation is immediately checked. To do this, you must have a level at hand. With its help, the required indicator is transferred to two opposite walls. Screw in the screws and tighten the cord. It is used for alignment.
Having exposed all the beacons, they wait for the solution to dry.

If possible, it would be a great help to purchase laser level. It makes it possible to quickly align beacons.

Applying the mixture

How to plaster a ceiling and get a really smooth surface? To do this you will need a spatula and a falcon. The second tool is used to transfer the solution.

The technology is as follows:

Complete drying will occur only after a few days. If it is necessary to apply a layer of more than 2.5 - 3 cm, then a reinforcing mesh is first laid. It needs to be fixed. For this, self-tapping screws and dowels are used.

If you still have questions, watch the video, which describes in detail the entire process of plastering a ceiling surface using beacons.

Naturally, in order to finally understand how to properly plaster a ceiling, you need to gain initial experience. And this is very easy to do if you follow the simple rules given above. Of course, you will have to make a lot of effort, because even professional craftsmen consider this work quite difficult.

The renovation of a home or office begins with finishing the ceilings. Leveling the ceiling with your own hands without the help of specialists is a rather labor-intensive step in this difficult process. Let's consider the most current method - leveling by plastering.

Tools and accessories for leveling the ceiling

Finishing work, in particular leveling the ceiling, is an expensive process, so you can try and do it yourself, without the help of a specialist. If you decide to plaster the ceiling yourself, stock up on materials and tools.

We will need following tools and accessories:

Plastic or galvanized buckets of sufficient volume (15 liters minimum);
An electric drill with different attachments (a mixer is required) and a power of at least 800 W;
Set of spatulas - 50, 100, 200 mm;
Trowel (trowel) made of stainless steel;
Plaster comb;
Plaster float;
Metal smoother (grater);
Plaster falcon, long enough to suit the size of the room;
Sponge grout;
Wide brush or roller;
Pick small size, hatchet, scoop;
Aluminum rule 2-2.5 m long;
Bubble level (preferably laser);
Plaster mixture Rotband (Knauf);
Screws 6x45 mm;
Beacon profiles 6 mm;
Primer “Concrete contact” (Feidel);
Gloves to protect hands, respirator, tape measure.

Each master may have his own set of tools, but the standard minimum is approximately the same. Materials for work may also differ from those listed; the best options are listed here.

Types of plaster mixtures for ceilings

The finishing stage begins with the preparation of a working solution - gypsum, cement or lime. Currently, gypsum is popular plaster mixtures. Materials of German origin, such as Rotband (Knauf), are especially convenient for leveling the ceiling with your own hands. Let's compare plaster mixtures for leveling ceilings.

Cement plaster for ceiling

It is a cement-sand mixture; various additives, for example, lime, are used to increase its plasticity. It is universal and can be used to cover ceilings in any room: living rooms, bathrooms, saunas, kitchens, etc.

The advantages include low cost, durability, strength. In addition, it does not harden when kneading in large volumes for a sufficient time for work.

Disadvantages: it takes a long time to dry (up to two weeks), it is difficult to work with it without sufficient experience, final putty is required, poor adhesion to a smooth concrete surface, work is accompanied by an abundance of dust and dirt.

Cement mortars are more durable, resistant to frost and high moisture compared to gypsum mortars, but this fact is not particularly relevant in residential premises.

Lime plaster for ceiling

Most of the mixture is lime and sand, with a small amount of cement and other additives for certain properties. Used for plastering any premises, except those where a lot of moisture collects - bathroom, swimming pool, sauna.

Its advantages: ease of application, fairly quick hardening, excellent antibacterial and thermal insulation properties, resistance to high temperatures, vapor permeability, helping to create a comfortable indoor microclimate, environmental friendliness, good adhesion to any surface, lowest cost.

Disadvantages: record holder for fragility, does not tolerate moisture.

Gypsum plaster for ceiling

The mixture mainly contains gypsum and mineral additives. Rotband gypsum mixture has the ability to retain moisture better than its analogues, therefore it is recommended for kitchens and bathrooms.

There are few disadvantages, and they are completely covered by its advantages: it hardens quickly during operation, so batch mixing is recommended, does not tolerate mechanical damage, is high in cost, and is afraid of water.

Let us list the advantages of gypsum mixtures:

They make it possible to apply a thick layer of up to 50 mm in one go without the risk of cracks during the operation of the room.
Gypsum practically does not shrink, so it does not form cracks when hardening.
When leveling the ceiling with gypsum plaster, it consumes less material for the same area, compared to cement mortar.
Gypsum plaster is a very plastic material, record-breakingly easy to work with, productivity is up to 40 m2 per person per day.
Good grip, low specific gravity makes this material problem-free for ceiling leveling.
Lower thermal conductivity and better sound insulation compared to cement.
The ceiling, lined with gypsum mixture, “breathes”, creating a comfortable atmosphere in the house.
With its help it is much easier to level smooth, for example, concrete ceilings, does not slip.
During operation it generates very little dirt and dust.
Lays down smoothly and does not require finishing putty.
Eco-friendly mixture, harmless to humans.
Prevents heat loss, absorbs and releases moisture well.

Preparing the ceiling for leveling with plaster

It is possible to plaster ceiling coverings made of any material - wood, stone, concrete. Before leveling the ceiling with plaster, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Disinfecting the ceiling before plastering

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the ceiling surface. Maybe it will show not only contamination, but also fungal disease, mold. Disinfect if necessary. Remove traces of fungus and mold with a sponge soaked in water and treat them with a special compound.

For disinfection, you can use the following disinfectant solutions from: domestic producers(some are based on copper sulfate) or imported products:

Homeenpoiste (Finland);
Pufas (Germany) - in the presence of small spots of mold and mildew;
Feidal Schimmel - Ex-concentrate (Russia);
Belinka (Slovenia);
Bagi Anti-Mold (Israel);
Deo-anti-mold (Russia);
Sepotosan-T (Russia);
Mogel-Fri (Sweden);
NEOMID (Russia).

In case of large-scale infestations of the ceiling surface, it is better to fire the mycelium blowtorch or plasma welding. Chlorine-containing mold repellents do not provide long-term results and require careful handling.

Cleaning the ceiling before leveling with plaster

Carry out a complete cleaning of the ceiling from ancient paint, whitewash, plaster, various contaminants. It is recommended to remove the old coating, even if there is visually invisible wear. This way you can avoid cracking in the future and save centimeters of ceiling height. The main tool for this work is a hard spatula.

Depending on the coating material, various cleaning agents and methods are used:

Whitewash can be removed hot water.
To remove plaster, wet the ceiling using a sprayer or a roller with a sponge, and you will not only get rid of dust, but its removal will also become less labor-intensive. When scraping off plaster, use a hammer chisel, ax or crowbar.
The enamel is removed in layers with a spatula, and a particularly durable type will require the use of a drill with a special brush attachment (don’t forget to wear a respirator and goggles).
Removal of old paint is carried out with special solvents - domestic (Shchelkovo, Volgograd) or “Pufas” (Germany). If the paint is applied to the plaster and “fused” with it, then they are removed together 30-40 minutes after coating with the product.

Not only the surface of the ceiling must be cleaned, but also all connecting seams and pipe passages. After completing all cleaning work, the ceiling should be thoroughly cleaned of crumbs and dust.

Primer of the ceiling before applying plaster

The primer is applied to the cleaned ceiling to eliminate defects and strengthen it so that the plaster does not fall off later.
The holes near the pipes are filled with foam. After it has completely dried, the excess must be carefully cut off at ceiling level.

If there are a lot of potholes and they are deep, then it is advisable to purchase fast-hardening cement-based putty “Spachtelmasse” or “Uniflot” from Knauf. Wide seams and cracks are additionally sealed over the putty with sickle tape. If there are only a few damages, sealing them with Rotband gypsum putty is sufficient.

The entire surface of the ceiling is treated with Knauf-Betonokontakt or a similar primer. Using a brush dipped in the ready-to-use Betonokontakt primer mixture, work on all the rust - ceiling connecting seams, chips, pipe passages. This primer makes the surface slightly rough, which helps the plaster adhere well.

Work is carried out with a spatula rectangular shape medium size. Defects are covered with small strokes so that there are no gaps. After a strip of putty of about a meter is formed, the excess is removed with a large spatula.

Primer smooth surfaces as follows:

Concrete primer. Smooth concrete surface The coating doesn't hold up well. To increase the adhesion of concrete to the soil, the surface roughness is first created using a sandblasting machine or notches and cuts are made on it, for example, with an ax.
Primer for wood and steel surface . Plaster will not adhere to such complex surfaces without the use of a special plaster mesh with cells 10*10 mm. The metal mesh is attached to the ceiling with staples or wide-headed nails.

Installing beacons on the ceiling for leveling

The next point of work on the ceiling is the installation of beacons that resemble rails. There are metal and plastic perforated lighthouse profiles with a depth of 6-10 mm and a length of 3000 mm. The beacons serve as a guide when leveling the ceiling with plaster. This is a very important moment; the quality of the plastered surface depends on the correctness of its implementation.

Perfect horizontal ceilings does not exist in nature - experienced plasterers believe. If the ceiling is not so much horizontal as simply visually flat, then this step can be skipped to save consumables and perform the alignment “by eye” using the rule. It's another matter if the surface of the ceiling is so crooked that a global correction is necessary. Then installing beacons cannot be avoided.

The beacon installation technology consists of the following stages:

Level the ceiling. To do this, you need to measure the height of the walls in all corners of the room, find the smallest one and mark the zero level with a pencil. Using a water level, this distance is applied to the remaining (large) corners and a pencil mark is placed.
Horizontal lines between the marks are marked on the walls with a whitewashed cord. This is the mark of the lower boundary of the future corrected ceiling.
Under the beacons on the ceiling, you should draw parallel lines with a pencil or simply mark the beginning and end of each profile. We must try to draw lines along high areas to reduce the amount of solution.
Nails are driven into the pencil line and marks in the corners, or screws are screwed in, and a fishing line is pulled between them with force. The number of beacons depends on the size of the room. You will need approximately 2-3 rows at a distance of 130-180 cm from each other.
Beacons are placed along the stretched fishing line. To do this, retreating 10-15 mm from the wall, apply a solution from a rotband or fugenfüller, onto which a beacon strip is glued.
The ends of the lighthouse profile are leveled along the marked line on the wall, then leveled using building rule And small level(they can be fastened together with wire).
The next row of the beacon profile is located at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule. For example, if the building code is 1.5 m long, then the distance between the beacons will be approximately 1.3 m.
Leave the beacons installed on the ceiling to dry for 2-6 hours, otherwise they can be accidentally knocked down during plastering.

An important point is to place beacons better in the light. If there are windows, then the beacons should be placed lengthwise. With this method possible defects ceiling alignments will be less noticeable.

Please note when leveling the ceiling with Rotband that the plaster dries quickly, and the process of installing beacons must be carried out very conscientiously. To gain some time for leveling the beacon profile, it is better to fasten it with regular starting putty.

Features of leveling the ceiling with plaster

Having finished preparing the ceiling for leveling, we proceed to the main stage of finishing - the actual application of plaster. This method is indicated if the ceiling surface is not an end in itself. If the ceiling has a large curvature, and you want an impeccable result, then use plaster in in this case is not justified, since a large amount of work and material will be required.

Applying plaster to the ceiling

When the beacons are completely dry, you can begin plastering with the prepared solution. The process of plastering on beacons consists of throwing the mixture between their rows and stretching it with a rule. Having finished working with one row, they move on to another.

The technology for applying the leveling mixture is as follows:

The solution is applied with a small spatula to the falcon, then to the ceiling using a spreading motion, filling the space between the beacons.
The entire prepared mixture is laid out and the tent is roughly leveled with a large spatula towards you. The rule should be firmly pressed against the beacon profiles so that no excess solution remains.
The layer is leveled aluminum rule zigzag movements towards yourself. The recesses left by the rule are immediately filled with solution.
If it is necessary to apply several layers, each subsequent layer should be applied no earlier than after 20 minutes. The layer is immediately leveled, checking the level of the beacons.
After leveling the area between the beacons, after 10-15 minutes, grout the treated area with a sponge soaked in water until it is impeccably smooth.
Hard-to-reach areas around pipes and in corners are trimmed and smoothed with a spatula.
The ceiling is leveled; all the beacons must be removed and the grooves left by them must be repaired.
Check the ceiling for evenness using the rule. Cut off the excess and add where there are holes. Use a trowel to seal the corners and where the ceiling meets the walls.
The leveled ceiling should dry for some time until it becomes dull. As soon as the plaster reaches the desired condition, you should smooth it with a steel spatula or trowel using circular movements.
To get rid of the need for finishing putty, you need to re-sand the ceiling with P150-170 sandpaper or a metal float within 24 hours. Pre-moisten the ceiling generously with water.
Leveling the ceiling with plaster is almost complete. The surface is almost perfect and ready for painting, gluing, and tiling. Zero smoothness can only be achieved by subsequent finishing putty and sanding.

Important! Until the layer of plaster has dried, you cannot open the windows to ventilate the room.

Features of working with gypsum plaster

Leveling the ceiling with gypsum plaster is much easier than with traditional sand-cement mortars. With some skill, even a beginner can handle the job. But there are several features in preparing the solution and applying it.

Features of mixing the solution are as follows:

Gypsum mixtures They harden quickly, so they are prepared in quantities sufficient for half an hour of work.
When plastering the ceiling, it is unacceptable to add dry matter, water, or other components to the mixture, as this will upset the balance.
To level the ceiling, the solution is made less thick than for walls. Then it sticks to the surface better, and gravity will not cause the plaster to collapse.

When applying gypsum plaster, you should take into account that the thicker the layer, the more likely it is that bubbles will appear, under which there is no adhesion of the plaster to the ceiling, and it will sag. It is better to first apply a thin layer, and then immediately the main one until it hardens. It is not recommended to apply more than 1 base coat to the ceiling.

Materials of German origin, such as Rotband (Knauf), are especially convenient for leveling the ceiling with your own hands. They allow you to process the ceiling without involving any additional materials. When leveling the ceiling with Rotband, it is important to process the entire ceiling in one day so that the stripes between the beacons do not dry out. This makes it easier to connect them, and they will not differ from each other.

How to level a ceiling with plaster - watch the video:

If you decide to level the ceiling yourself, you should take into account that the upcoming work is quite extensive. Don't be afraid of difficulties, modern materials it has become much simpler.