How to choose stretch ceilings in the toilet, photos of vinyl ceiling systems. Beautiful ceiling in the bathroom and toilet. Ceiling design How to make a false ceiling in the toilet

August 1, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works.

For repair, you can choose 4 finishing options, these are plasterboard, plastic, slatted and stretch ceilings in the toilet. Of course, there is also the option of a conventional putty ceiling, but this no longer applies to the category of suspended structures. Let's now look at each of these designs, and you will also have the opportunity to get acquainted with the video in this article.

Dropped ceilings

First, let's look at the principle of suspended ceilings as such:

any suspended ceiling - created with your own hands, implies the presence of a frame for installing the cladding;
this means that you definitely need to hit back horizontal level , along which both the frame and the cladding will be mounted;
the crate here can be ambiguous, that is, it can be CD profiles, slats or a profile for stretch ceilings (wall, ceiling, harpoon, and so on);
the essence of the installation of each of the frames is as follows - not only cladding should be installed there, but also lighting embedded type. At a minimum, such a cartridge has 70 mm, therefore, this figure should come as a minimum depth, although, most often, it is 100 mm;
to beat the level horizontally, as a rule, use water or laser level , although, personal experience pulls the balance to the side of the water device;

please look at the diagram above - you see here the principle of installing a batten under any type of false ceiling. That is, the plane must be perfect, without any drops, for which nylon threads are used (in the diagram they are indicated in blue);
do not disregard draft basis - it must be rigid so that the frame holds well.

I won't go into detail about the installation of each cladding - it usually comes with practice. But, nevertheless, it is important to understand the principle of each of them so that you can make such repairs yourself.

PVC panels or wooden lining: 1 way

Let's briefly understand how to make plastic, MDF or wooden ceiling in small room toilet. First of all, this is the installation of the crate, which can be either from CD profiles or from wooden slats (there is no difference, as such, in fact).

The main difference here is only in the attachment. If the plastic is fastened with a stapler through the edge of the panel, then MDF and wood are fixed with steel clamps.

In addition, the panels can be fixed with self-tapping screws - I personally prefer this option - screws are always more reliable than metal brackets. In addition, carnations are sold with kleimers, but it is better not to use them - fix this bracket with a self-tapping screw into the central hole.

Make the last lining by 5 mm of the already required distance - this is the width of the chamfer and it will be much easier for you to insert it.

Slatted ceilings: option 2

The installation of a rack ceiling is very similar to the installation of a lining, only here there is a significant difference in the profiles. Along the perimeter, as usual, a U-shaped profile is installed, but now, the intermediate traverses represent a device with latches (see the photo above). Here, a single panel is simply fixed - it is simply snapped into place.

In most cases, the rails are installed with gaps, where inserts in the form of stripes of a different color are later installed. The rails themselves can be plastic or metal (aluminum), which determines their price. Holes for fixtures are best cut before installing the panel on the crate, but for this it is important to make the correct markup.

Plasterboard ceilings: method 3

But drywall sheets, in my opinion, it is easiest to install - they are large, 1200 × 2500 mm, and the toilet in a high-rise building (with a separate bathroom) is never wider than 800 mm, and 1200-1300 mm in length (it happens in different ways). In fact. Half a sheet will be enough for you ceiling plasterboard- in thickness it is 6-8 mm (depending on the manufacturer - in China it is thinner).

Here, too, you can use both CD profiles and wooden slats, although my experience suggests that metal is still better. GKL is fastened with 25 mm self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm, but you can also make such a ceiling from pieces - in any case, you will have to putty it. The most important thing here is that each screw is recessed by 0.5-1.0 mm - this will help with plastering - the head will not interfere.

Stretch ceilings: 4 way

In total there are three types of baguette for stretching PVC sheets- these are cam, wedge and harpoon. In fact, they are all the same from a technological point of view - just from the technical side, the installation of the web is somewhat different. The stretching of the film is carried out by heating the polyvinyl chloride with a gas or electric gun.

I want to note that the installation of ceilings from pvc is better just entrust to specialists so that you do not spoil an expensive product. However. If desired, such things can be done independently.

Conclusion

It’s hard for me to say which is the best ceiling for your toilet - it’s important to just focus on the wall decoration and your own taste. But if you have any specific suggestions, then write them down, please, in the form of a post in the comments.

August 1, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

August 5, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master the technology of finishing work, then do-it-yourself toilet repair will be an excellent workout for you: small area premises will significantly reduce temporary and financial expenses, and at the same time you can practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the repair and design of the toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account the preparation for finishing, the tiling of the floor and walls, the installation of a false ceiling, and the installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in episode 137 standard apartments the dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to realize the most compact version design, using affordable and not too difficult materials to work with.

When deciding where to start repairing the toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the premises into a decent appearance, we will first of all remove old finish. For this:

We dismantle the toilet, disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that fixes the product to the floor.
We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them as well.
We remove old finishes - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a perforator or a drill with a nozzle in the form of a stiff wire brush.

When a complete reconstruction is planned, we also dismantle the old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep strobes, then they can not be removed - just de-energize the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
After removal construction debris we treat surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

AT panel house of a typical building, very often it is in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water. In order not to carry out a comprehensive reconstruction, it is here that it is worth laying a distribution unit, hiding all pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When doing toilet repairs, I usually do this:

I lay first sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, therefore it can be laid with minimal slope towards the drain. I choose a branch pipe for direct connection in such a way that it matches the configuration of the toilet bowl outlet - straight or inclined.
At the same stage, I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that a slope of about 2 cm per linear meter is maintained.

I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect a tap for drain tank. If it is planned to install a washstand in the bathroom (such options are implemented in visits larger area) - I make two separate taps with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate strobes under the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you do not plan to install it right now) - immediately lay the piping for its installation.

I lay the wiring for installing a socket for a water heater in a strobe. For ceiling lighting, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

From a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic, or from metal profile I form a box for masking risers, piping and other elements. It should be sheathed immediately before finishing - so we will not damage the drywall in the course of other work.

Actually, on this preparatory operations are running out. After that, we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

Thinking about how to make repairs in the toilet, we must first approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice the most different schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to spend time masking already finished surfaces with film, fabric, newspapers, etc.

It is for these reasons that I prefer to start with the repair of the ceiling:

Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, I beat off a straight line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The offset depends on the dimensions of the recessed fixtures. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

I install along the line on the walls either starting profile galvanized steel or wooden beam.
I attach guides to the ceiling with the help of metal suspensions: I also make them either from a bar or from a metal profile. Fixing all parts to the bearing surfaces is carried out using dowels for express installation.
After completing the work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

To the profile fixed around the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with a groove for plastic panels. For fastening to a tree, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer with a construction stapler.
The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option- this is a ceiling lining with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, after which I install it on the ceiling: the ends must be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks should be fixed on the frame bars with a stapler.

In the selected place, I make a hole in the plastic panel, through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually put the device itself at the very end of the repair, so a temporary construction of an incandescent lamp with a cartridge tied to the wires with electrical tape is used for lighting.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option there will be tiling here: a small area significantly reduces purchase costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finish is hygienic and durable.

Sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

I check the walls with a level, and if necessary, I perform a rough leveling. For quality cladding it is important that the differences along the plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a perforator, and then grind concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, and even in a room such as a bathroom, is difficult, long and expensive.

I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
I sheathe the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant drywall.
I soak the tile in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to greatly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

I prepare the adhesive mixture by diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly with a nozzle on a drill: you need to do this at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now I'm going to start tiling:

I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. With the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves for even distribution of the composition.
It is important not to apply glue on too large plot. Be guided by howling speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
According to the markup, I apply the tile to the wall, press it and level it. With a spatula, carefully remove the protruding excess glue.
To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic remote crosses.

Tiles on the walls are laid in rows, from top to bottom. For getting beautiful drawing you can arrange elements with an offset - while the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 of the width. The accuracy of laying is checked using a level and a plumb line, if necessary, the position of the tile is corrected and added/removed adhesive composition.

After finishing the lining, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I rub the seams. Grout is a paste that fills the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve appearance premises, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout dries, I will have the last, clean cosmetic stage: wash the tiles and wipe them with a clean, dry cloth. If we were careful enough to remove excess adhesive and grout from the surface in time, then this task would not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the floor in the toilet with my own hands, I usually evaluate its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work on flooring carried out before finishing the walls.

To begin with, the base is once again cleaned of dust and debris and impregnated with a penetrating primer.
Then, with my own hands, I apply a waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the premises below it from leaks, therefore it is worth forming the so-called “trough” here - waterproofing not only the floor, but also the walls to a height of about 15 cm.

On top of the waterproofing, I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick. For filling I use self leveling compounds with fast hardening: their price is higher than that of a standard cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and at times.

After the screed has dried (at best it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with soil.
For work I choose only floor tiles: it is both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be shifted.

On the base with a grater I apply cement-based tile adhesive. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over the surface of about 1m2 and proceed to the cladding.
I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacers.

After facing, I let the glue dry, rub the seams, dry the grout, wash it and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The repair of the toilet itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. No special difficulties are foreseen here, but it will take a lot of work, especially if, in addition to the toilet, you also need a washstand:

We install the toilet bowl on the floor in the chosen place, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
In place of the mounting holes, we make notes, remove the toilet bowl and drill nests with a perforator to fix the product.

We hammer dowels into the nests, install the toilet in place and fix anchor bolts. At the same time, the outlet of the toilet bowl is either brought directly into the sewer pipe, or connected to it using a flexible corrugation.

From above we install a tank, which we fix on the base with screws with union nuts.
We attach a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
We apply the sink to the wall and mark the attachment points.
According to the marking, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet bowl, we hammer plastic dowels.

Next, we either fasten the brackets to the wall, on which we install the washstand, or fix the sink itself on the base using anchors with union nuts.
We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
We install the mixer, leading to it flexible hoses with cold and hot water.
After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the performance of the system and check the absence of leaks.
Then we take the prepared recessed fixtures, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

The cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much it will cost to repair a bathroom, you need to know its area, and what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing on our own or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate estimates, the estimate tends to increase, so it’s worth putting in the budget by about 30% more funds than it turns out according to the calculations.

To facilitate budgeting, I advise you to use the table containing the estimated prices for materials used in the repair of the bathroom. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as the basis), but it gives an idea of the order of numbers in full:

Material	unit of measurement	Cost, rubles
Mastic waterproofing	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Floor leveling compound	25 kg	280 – 750
Tiles for walls budget	m2	45 — 90
Tiles for walls of the middle price category	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for internal works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PCS.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for the frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling lining	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for outdoor work 110 mm	1 m.	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 m.	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 m.	70 — 120
Compression fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PCS.	250 — 500
Mixer with short spout	PCS.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washstand Santeri	PCS.	900
Toilet-compact Santek	PCS.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, you need to consider that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealants, gaskets, etc. So the budget reserve mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of training ground for “running in” the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. Based on the recommendations given, the tips in the comments and the video in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skill, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Ceilings in toilet rooms, as well as in bathrooms, are subject to increased requirements for performance. And this is not surprising - the humidity in these rooms is often high, the space is limited, and at the same time, I want to get something beautiful and practical.

To facilitate the choice, consider the most popular options for how the ceiling in the toilet is finished, on the photos attached to the description of the option.

Options

There are many ways to finish the ceiling in this room. But, only four main ones are most popular:

Stretch

Other types of design are less popular, although quite interesting solutions come across among them.

Each of the above methods deserves separate close consideration, which we will do next.

Plasterboard

Perhaps the most common way to give beautiful view the top of the room. Its advantages are low cost, ease of construction and the ability to perform all installation operations with your own hands.

If the appearance gets bored, it can be repainted, or, if desired, pasted over with new wallpaper or polyurethane tiles. There are a lot of options for how you can arrange drywall. And almost all of them can be applied.

Another positive quality, which is inherent in all suspended structures, is the ability to hide almost any defects in the interfloor slab.

Unfortunately, such structures have general disadvantage, due to the fact that during the construction of a suspended base, the height of the room inevitably decreases.

Stretch films

An increasingly popular finishing method. At a cost, it will come out slightly more expensive than a well-made construction using gypsum sheets. And according to its main characteristics, it will be much more attractive.

It has all the advantages of suspended structures, but at the same time, it is practically devoid of their main drawback - the height of the room in which the tension coating is installed can be reduced quite a bit - from 3 centimeters. It's almost imperceptible.

At the same time, such a ceiling in the toilet looks very good - take a look at the photo. It can be washed, it is not afraid of moisture, and this is one of the most important advantages of stretch coatings.

At the flood hosted by neighbors top, you don't have to change it. It will be enough just to drain the water, and wait until the film is stretched again, and this will take only a couple of hours.

The main drawback is the inability to make the film itself on its own. It is also better to entrust it to tensioning specialists, but with all this, the tension coating is becoming more and more popular look finishes, gradually replacing drywall.

Structures made of MDF or plastic panels

Great option for budget decision problems with finishing the upper part of the toilet rooms. The cost of plastic panels is very low, and some types MDF finishes, very successfully copy wooden or stone surfaces.

MDF parts, of course, will be more expensive, but they are united with plastic by the method of installation, and the simplicity of this process.

Everything can be done in half a day, and at the same time, you will not need to call a construction team or installers. A design of such elements can be perfectly done on your own, if there were tools at hand.

If we talk about plastic panels, then they are the best suited for toilet rooms - they are not afraid of moisture, they look quite beautiful, and the cost is very low.

MDF planks are no longer so practical - moisture can damage them, but there are types covered with protective compounds and films that resist water well.

For the installation of the entire structure, one person will be enough who can handle a puncher and a screwdriver. Finishing will take no more than half a day.

The disadvantages are not the most serious - it is very difficult to obtain a continuous surface from such parts. There are types of surfaces obtained, which are called "seamless", but their cost is quite high.

Another of the peculiar shortcomings of all panel coatings is the geometry and direction of the pattern, along the location of the parts.

Rack

This method of registration can also be attributed to a fairly budget. The cost of the entire constructed ceiling will be quite low. Of course, a lot depends on the type of rails chosen, but still, their cost will not hit the repair budget too hard.

The disadvantages are very similar to those of the panel ones - the direction of the pattern, a decrease in the height of the room, and a poor palette of colors.

Of the advantages - they are not afraid of water, one person can mount it, and it will take quite a bit of time for installation.

In the event of a flood from neighbors from above, the entire coating will not have to be changed - water does not affect it in any way. Also, you can not be afraid to choose a lamp that is too powerful - heating such surfaces is also not terrible.

The solution is very practical, although it has a limited number of design options.

Conclusion

There are a lot of ways to finish the ceiling in the toilet, and most of them could be seen in the attached photos.

Which one to choose is up to you, but you need to do this based on the size and height of your room. Compliance in general with the rest of the design is a very important point.

The ceiling in the toilet must have high performance and be resistant to impact. aggressive environment especially moisture. Combine beauty and durability in conditions high humidity not every finishing material is capable. Consider the most suitable options and features of their use in the sanitary room.

Requirements for finishing materials for the toilet

The toilet room has its own specifics - in addition to placing in it sanitary equipment water and sewer pipes pass through it. Repair if necessary various pipes, it is necessary to proceed from the principle of least damage finishing materials. Starting to choose the finish of the ceiling in the toilet, you should be guided by the following principles:

Moisture resistance - ceiling material should not be susceptible to condensation and not serve as a breeding ground for mold.
Ceiling trim should not be an obstacle to access to pipes.
Convenience and ease of installation of material that does not complicate the installation electrical wires and ventilation ducts.
Ease of maintenance - it is desirable that the surface of the ceiling could be cleaned by wiping with a damp sponge, avoiding complex and time-consuming manipulations.
The material must comply with aesthetic ideas and be combined with wall and floor decoration, fitting into general idea design.
The design of the ceiling should take up minimal space and not reduce the height of the room too much.
Compliance with environmental standards is a weighty argument when choosing a finishing material.

The above requirements are of great practical importance.

In case of emergencies, such as flooding, the moisture-resistant ceiling finish will not need to be replaced, while other materials will have to be completely replaced.

At small sizes toilet room it is preferable to issue upper part rooms in bright colors.

Types of ceilings for the toilet

Among consumers, the most popular and high operational assessment got the following types of ceilings:

stretch - not afraid of wet cleaning and does not absorb different particles, has soundproofing properties and is an environmentally friendly material;
rack - made in two versions: from aluminum and plastic, a special system for attaching rails to a bar with teeth (tire) allows you to create seamless connections;
hanging - durable, moisture resistant, affordable, can be made of various materials, easy care;
made of plastic panels - cheap, joints are not visible, requires installation ceiling plinth, the ceiling surface is perfect, fast installation speed;
plasterboard - is a type of suspended ceilings, made of moisture-resistant drywall, mounted using metal frame, is distinguished by ease of installation, low price, the possibility of finishing surfaces with complex relief.

Other types ceiling finish not received much distribution. Consider the above options and installation methods in more detail.

Stretch ceiling

The stretch ceiling in the toilet is made of polyester fabric, pre-impregnated with environmentally friendly pure material- polyurethane. Installation is carried out using an industrial hair dryer, which warms up the material, which allows it to be better stretched. With help special fasteners, pre-installed in the corners and around the perimeter of the room, the fabric is fixed. In the process of cooling, the ceiling material is compressed and stretched, forming a monolithic structure with a smooth surface.

The advantages of a stretch ceiling include the following qualities:

easy care and convenient cleaning of the surface;
occupies a small space in height (about 3 cm), sufficient only to mask communications;
dismantling is not difficult;
high strength characteristics allow to withstand the full load in several cubic meters water, in case of emergency flooding from neighbors, which can then be drained through the hole for the lamp.

Entrust the installation of a stretch ceiling better for professionals to avoid annoying mistakes and additional expenses. This type of coating is gaining popularity and is gradually replacing drywall as a finishing ceiling material.

Dropped ceilings

Ideas on how to decorate the ceiling in the toilet beautifully and practically are numerous. Most often, the choice of owners of apartments and private houses falls on suspended ceilings. And it is no coincidence. Because the suspended ceiling can be made of various materials and mounted in different ways, the choice becomes simply huge. Consider the main varieties of this finishing method.

rack ceiling

Design option that uses rack ceiling, can be attributed to the budget. Even if professionals are involved in the installation, the final cost will still be low. The type of rails also affects the price. If aluminum is chosen as the material, this will slightly increase the cost of materials, but will also allow you to create an exceptionally beautiful and durable ceiling in the toilet.

Among the shortcomings of such materials, the following features can be distinguished:

the height of the room is noticeably reduced;
the color scheme does not differ in variety;
panels with a pattern should be selected relative to each other.

The positive features of rack ceilings are as follows:

water resistance;
high installation speed (may take several hours);
one person is enough for work;
in case of flooding, the ceiling does not have to be replaced;
the possibility of installing a powerful lamp, due to the insensitivity of the rails to heat.

It can be concluded that the rack ceiling is very practical and inexpensive solution, the main disadvantage of which is the lack of a wide range of products.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

The perfect solution for finishing the ceiling of the toilet room for little money. The cost of the panels is quite low, and their installation is not difficult. Installation can be carried out independently within 5-6 hours.

The ceiling made of plastic panels is not afraid of moisture and has a presentable appearance. To carry out the installation of this material, one worker armed with a screwdriver and a puncher will be required.

The disadvantages of this material are small:

the surface of the panels will not be continuous, seamless options are much more expensive;
the pattern on the surface of the products has a longitudinal orientation and a special geometry, therefore, it requires the selection of one panel to another;
The material is quite fragile, so care must be taken when transporting.

The advantages of this finishing material include:

resistance to moisture;
ease of care (cleaning the surface is easy and does not require special measures);
the height of the room is reduced by no more than 5 cm;
many color options allow you to choose a solution that harmonizes with the walls and floor of the toilet.

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is suspended structure. When installing, there are two pipe design solutions:

Manufacturing special box for pipes and installation of panels on the remaining ceiling area with adjustment in length.
Making holes for pipes in the panels and installing them over the entire ceiling area.

To decorate the room in an original and beautiful way, you can choose panels of the following types:

"chameleons";
3-D panels;
with a rough surface;
glossy;
mirror;
with a relief or embossed surface;
matte panels.

PVC ceiling panels are a construction of plates, between which special stiffening ribs are located. Lack of strength and sensitivity to mechanical influences make the material brittle. However, these characteristics are somewhat improved by the use of durable and high-quality stiffeners.

Seamless PVC panels do not form gaps during installation, and panels that resemble clapboard are classified as embossed. A neat and small seam in varieties of rusticated products imitates the seams of reinforced concrete floors.

How is the installation of plastic panels for the ceiling

The entire installation process can be divided into a sequence of the following steps:

Wooden bars with a section of 30 * 30 mm are nailed to the ceiling, having previously treated them with a wood preservative. For fasteners, anchors are used, the length of which is 70 mm. A distance of 40 or 50 cm is maintained between the bars.
Wires are laid to the location of future fixtures.
The “finish” and “start” profiles are set, after which the distance between them is measured. The resulting value is the length of the installed panels.
Using a hacksaw for metal, the panels are shortened to the desired length.
A cut panel is placed in the side profile and advanced until it touches the start profile and fastens it with the latter.
The frame and panel are fastened with self-tapping screws, twisting them into grooves.
Each subsequent panel moves towards the previous one by inserting it into the side profile, after which a spike is placed in the groove and snapped into place. In addition, the products are fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws.
The last panel is installed in the finishing profile from the side. It should be inserted with a groove or cut surface.
For fixtures, holes are made with a drill using a “crown” nozzle. In this case, it is important to first insert the light source, and only then install the panel.
Depending on the wall decoration, the width of the panels should be selected. This means that when tiling walls, the width of the panel must match its width.

Moisture resistant plasterboard ceiling

The answer to the question of how to make a plasterboard ceiling in a toilet is not too different from the information on installing other types of suspended ceilings. The installation technology is as follows:

Prepare necessary materials: metal profile, putty, drill, screwdriver, level, self-tapping screws.
Treat the work surface with a fungicidal (antifungal) agent.
Insulate electrical wires by placing them in corrugated pipes.

Installation sequence:

The ceiling is marked, the installation locations of the fixtures and the main profiles are determined.
Profiles (basic) are installed along the perimeter of the ceiling of the room using a level.
Guide profiles are mounted in increments of 60 cm.
After the frame is installed, they start trimming moisture-resistant drywall sheets.
Using self-tapping screws, the sheets are attached to the frame. It is convenient to use a screwdriver for these purposes.
Holes are made in drywall through which wires are led out.
Seams and installation sites for self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to grinding the surface.
Acrylic primer will provide additional protection from moisture, so it is recommended to treat the ceiling with it at the end of installation.

Before deciding to make a false ceiling from this material, some of its disadvantages should be taken into account:

It will not withstand flooding from neighbors from above.
The height of the room will be significantly reduced.

Conclusion

Regardless of which ceiling was chosen from the above, it will eliminate the need to carry out costly and time-consuming work on leveling and preparing the surface for finishing. This is an important quality, especially considering the excellent performance and design characteristics of these materials. Turning to specialists will allow you to decorate the ceiling of the toilet as quickly and efficiently as possible without unnecessary nerves and labor costs. At self installation of such finishing materials, it is recommended to follow the installation technology and purchase the necessary tools.

Plastic panels are becoming more and more popular in the construction market today. This is no coincidence, because if you install such material in a toilet or bathroom, the room will look aesthetically pleasing and neat. The panels are easy to care for, they weigh a little. Take a closer look at this finish option when renovating a bathroom or toilet. The panel is attached to the frame with a stapler or self-tapping screws. Spotlights are built into the ceiling of this material.

Advantages of PVC

A plastic ceiling is the most correct solution, as it has advantages over other materials:

not afraid of moisture;
withstand temperature fluctuations in the room;
does not absorb moisture;
does not swell under the influence of moisture;
at elevated temperatures does not increase in size;
hygienic, does not allow the development of mold and fungus;
thanks to the excellent reflectivity of the panels, the toilet becomes lighter, and because of this, the consumption of electrical energy is saved;
electric wires that go to the lighting fixtures are removed under the panels;
the surface of the walls and ceiling becomes even.

The plastic panel is a long strip with an average width of 25–30 cm. The end is cut off, and there are locks on the sides that will connect the elements during installation.

In the photo - PVC in the context. Inside there are stiffening ribs. That's why material is light but at the same time durable.

Profiles for panels

This material is for decorative design when covering the ceiling or walls in the toilet or in another room using PVC panels. It is divided into the following types.

starting profile. Closes the cut ends of the panel. Fastened around the perimeter of the room.

Profile F1 closes the cut end on outer corner when you want to move to another plane. It is used in the event that one of the walls is sheathed, but the one around the corner is not.
Profile H (connecting). Serves to lengthen the strip, if it is not enough.

External and inner corner designed to cover the ends in the corresponding corners.
The ceiling plinth is arranged in the same way as the starting profile, but has a more attractive appearance.

Pros and cons of installing PVC panels

Each of the materials intended for cladding has its own advantages over others. The PVC panel also has many positive properties:

aligns the curvature of walls and ceilings in the premises, while it is not required to dismantle old coatings;
installation is quick and easy;
heat and sound insulation is laid behind the panels;
lack of dust and "wet" process;
affordable price.

Disadvantages of plastic:

it will not be possible to complete a multi-level ceiling;
some panels look "cheap";
you can see the connection between the panels.

Therefore, when planning repairs in the toilet or bathroom, it is advisable to take a closer look at the quality of the material. After all, the better it is, the more expensive, and, accordingly, the appearance is more attractive. For this reason pvc panel limited in application. It happens that when installing a lighting device plastic ceiling translucent.

Important! Before you buy plastic material, weigh all the pros and cons, so as not to regret later.

Calculation of material for installation

First, calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling in the toilet. Then divide the resulting number by total area one PVC panel. Add 15% to the resulting number for trimming and round up to a whole number.

To calculate the amount of a metal profile, follow the ceiling diagram in the toilet, observing the scale. Determine where the parallel lines will go across the ceiling. They are necessary for attaching the profile. The interval between parallel stripes is at least 50 centimeters. Based on such calculations, it is easy to calculate the required amount of material.

To fix along the perimeter of the surface, you need to purchase a UD strip, and for guides - CD. To attach PVC strips to the profile, you will need self-tapping screws with wide caps.

A plastic plinth will help complete the work on finishing the ceiling. To calculate its amount, measure the perimeter of the ceiling, divide this number by three, and then round up.

Mounting the frame for PVC panels

The installation of the frame in the toilet is carried out using the above-mentioned profiles: CD and UD. Wooden slats are also used, but much less often, because wood is exposed to moisture, especially in a room such as a bathroom or toilet. The tree is subject to decay and will last less.

How to properly install the frame?

Perform markup using a level. In a large room it is better to use a long level, and in small toilet a simple rack tool will suffice. Marks are made for the guide profile. Location depends on them. suspended panels PVC on the ceiling.
The profile, if necessary, is cut to the size of the room (profile length - 3 meters). It is drilled in increments of 50-60 centimeters. After that, the guide profile is applied to the wall, the holes are marked on it, the dowels are drilled and inserted. Each time check the horizontal level.
Provides rigidity to the frame ceiling profile. The mount for it is chosen, taking into account the distance to the base: if the gap is insignificant, then you can use a U-shaped suspension. If it is large, then it is better to take quick hangers with knitting needles. Sometimes specialists make special “boots” for the UD frame. To do this, cut the metal with the letter "G" and attach it with the smaller side to the ceiling, and the larger one - to the carrier profile.
Hangers are attached to the screws, checking by level. The step between the profiles is 50 centimeters, they are placed perpendicular to the PVC panels.

Definition of quality

When buying, carefully inspect the panels. quality products smooth, the pattern is evenly distributed. The face is smooth and even. Distortions and curvature of lines are not allowed.

Important! Count the number of stiffeners inside the panel. The more there are, the stronger the structure.

The thickness of the stiffening ribs and the outer walls of the plastic plays a role. Take two strips and try to connect them. The main thing is not the quality of the connection, but the ease of docking. There should not be a large gap between the stripes. To determine the strength of a material, take a strip and squeeze it hard, then inspect the surface. If it is not deformed or cracked, it is quality material. But slight deformation is acceptable.

Check the strip for bending. To do this, bend and straighten it 3-4 times. If after this procedure the material survived, then you can work with it. Poor quality plastic will deteriorate during installation.

What is required to work with plastic?

Plays an important role color solution. Today this is not a problem, and everyone will find for themselves interesting option.

The lining of the toilet is impossible without source material and tools. You will need the following:

A sharp knife to reduce the size of the plastic strips. Kitchen knife ruin the material and cut unevenly.
Self-tapping screws for fastening strips.
Wooden bars for the frame with a section of 3 x 10 cm or the metal parts described above.
With the planned fastening of the panels directly to the wall, you will need liquid nails or mounting foam.
Any repair will not do without a tape measure.
Building level for mounting the frame.
The plinth is decorative, which is attached to the wall.
profile corners.

Mount selection

Before starting work, determine how you are going to fix the panels: mounting foam or using a framework.

The first option involves the purchase of foam cylinders. When purchasing a product, pay attention to the expiration date. Fresh foam will yield more. If the toilet is spacious and there is brick walls, it is not necessary to mount the frame. It is allowed to fix PVC panels on the glue "liquid nails". This work is not difficult, but it requires patience.

How to cut plastic material?

This process is easy. They take the strips and lay them on the base with the wrong side. Then an incision is made sharp knife to make a line. The plastic is broken along it and again completely cut off with a knife along the intended line.

Preparation for work

Repair of the toilet and preparation for lining begins with cleaning: sockets, lighting fixtures, hoses, pipes are removed from the walls.

If selected wireframe method fasteners, it is more rational to use galvanized parts. If you took a wooden beam, treat it with an antiseptic.

First, the frame is mounted, and then the strips are installed where the panels are inserted. The work on facing the ceiling in the toilet starts from the corner. One edge of the PVC strip is inserted into the profile, and then the other side is attached to the screws

The next strip is easier to insert, it is pushed until a click occurs. And again, the other side is attached with self-tapping screws. Then install the plinth and decorative lining. With their help, you can veil defects and technological gaps. They are fixed with glue, as these are purely decorative details.