How to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. How to make a ceiling from plastic panels Installing a false ceiling from pvc panels

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range of plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various patterns and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on the power of lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material is a danger to human health and violates the correct living conditions in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and in the food industry. Various items made of plastic are found in large quantities in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is present in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a suspended ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, releasing 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

• Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply impractical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are only talking about visual characteristics, and the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as a separate structure;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular plastic panel ceiling profile, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
• Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
• If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. An important point - the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or a construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after the ceiling is fully assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage, the installation of the structure does not end.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you must observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the interior of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. A mounting plate is cut off from it and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, plinth and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling separate holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires powered by a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it must be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

With the advent of inexpensive building plastics, it has become much easier to repair the ceiling, and a presentable appearance of the structure has been added to the reduction in costs and easy installation. Indeed, practical glossy panels in the bathroom or kitchen look elegant and quite appropriate, and their design is not inferior to the design of plasterboard and tension systems. Thanks to a wide range of ready-made building materials, you can make a plastic suspended ceiling with your own hands, while the result will practically not differ from the work of professional craftsmen.

Why plastic is better than other materials

The first question that arises at the mention of plastic false ceilings concerns their safety for people or animals. Modern artificial PVC panels are absolutely harmless. PVC modifications are used not only for the production of building materials, but also for the manufacture of dishes, food packaging, and souvenirs.

At the same time, plastic, unlike wood, is light in weight, and for a ceiling device this is an important factor. In addition, PVC parts have a smooth, non-porous texture, while the natural material - wood - changes shape and weight with changes in temperature or air humidity in a limited space.

Plastic is great for finishing ceilings in modern kitchens.

One of the important advantages for utility rooms and bathrooms is practicality. Reiki and panels do not need to be updated with paint, it is enough to wipe it several times a year with a cloth slightly dampened with water. Stronger dirt is removed with traditional detergents - laundry soap or cleaning gel. Abrasive powders are not recommended, as they can scratch a smooth surface, it is especially easy to spoil the look of mirror and glossy elements.

The ease of installation of the PVC panel structure is also one of the advantages of this material. Even without special training, you can design and create a frame from a metal profile or wooden slats, and then attach plastic parts to it. Anyone who knows how to use a screwdriver or drill will succeed.

Do not forget that the plastic suspended ceiling perfectly masks communications: ventilation pipes and electrical wiring. PVC panels also perfectly hide heat-insulating mats. In the event of flooding from above, even repairs will not be required, although, suppose the drywall becomes unusable, and the tension structure has to be restored. As you can see, plastic ceilings have enough advantages.

Ceiling sample from fragments of textured plastic panels: thanks to segments of various lengths, an interesting pattern is formed

Choice of plastic panels

Consumable plastic can be divided into two categories - wide panels, most often glossy or matte, and narrow slats, resembling a wooden "lining" in size. The assembly principle for both types is the same: the parts are folded in parallel end-to-end, one by one, over the area of ​​the entire ceiling. It is not necessary to place elements along or across the walls, some hobbyists stack them diagonally, although this method is a little more difficult to perform.

Given the interior of the room, you can choose colored panels - most often they are painted in pastel, pale colors. There are options with a pattern, but they should be used with extreme caution, while the ornament on plastic should be combined in style with wallpaper, tiles and furnishings.

After choosing the color and size of the parts, you need to calculate their number. The dimensions of the panels are indicated on the labels, therefore, knowing the total area of ​​​​the room, it is easy to calculate the number of pieces: we divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by the area of ​​one part. 1-2 additional elements will not interfere, since some of the panels have to be cut.

Samples of panels with drawings of natural themes

When buying, pay attention to the following nuances:

• the same color of the elements of the entire batch;
• integrity of cardboard or film packaging;
• No scratches or chips on the plastic.

Pay special attention to the thickness of the panels. As a rule, ceiling specimens are slightly thinner than wall ones, their average thickness is 8-10 mm, the most reliable ones are 12.5 mm.

In addition to traditional white panels, colored plastic is widely used.

What materials and tools will be required

In addition to plastic panels for suspended ceilings, you will need a number of materials for the frame and a set of tools:

• starting (bearing) profile;
• connecting H-profile;
• corner (end) F-profile;
• ceiling plinth;
• corners (external and internal).

In the process of drafting a project, it is necessary to draw a layout of the panels and calculate how much consumable material will be approximately required. Do not forget about lamps, wires and fasteners - dowels and screws.

A standard set of tools is most likely to be found on the farm, the rest will have to be purchased: a drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw or a circular saw, a carpenter's knife.

Mirror panels visually increase the height of the ceiling in the bathroom

Installation instructions for plastic ceiling

The proposed phased plan is the basis for the construction of a plastic suspended ceiling of the simplest design. It is suitable for decorating a kitchen, bathroom or hallway of a rectangular or square shape. The instructions can be supplemented or slightly modified if required by the design decision.

Surface preparation and marking

Preparatory work consists in removing everything superfluous from the ceiling surface - old paint, fragments of plaster. If there are large cracks, they must be puttied. Concrete slabs in rooms with a high level of humidity should be treated with a composition against mold and fungus.

Then, using a level and a tape measure, you need to make a markup for the guide profile. The distance from the ceiling surface to the starting level is at least 10 cm, and preferably 12-15. The height of the ceilings will noticeably decrease, for this reason it is not recommended to arrange suspended structures in a typical panel and brick housing with a ceiling height of 2 m 50 cm.

Ready-made frame from the guide and ceiling profile in the bathroom

Installing a box from a profile

Properly mounted profile frame is a guarantee of long service life and reliability of the suspended structure. The procedure for installing a metal profile box (a crate made of wooden slats is attached according to the same principle):

1. We drill holes for dowels in the walls and fix the guide profile.
2. We connect the parts together with special fasteners - "bugs".
3. We attach suspensions to the ceiling - in a straight line, at intervals of 50-55 cm.
4. We mount a ceiling profile to the suspensions, on which plastic panels will be attached.

If necessary, if the room has a length of more than 4 meters, we build up the profile in segments using longitudinal connectors or simply fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Fastening plastic panels with pre-installed spotlights

Installation of plastic panels

The final step, which should be done slowly and very carefully. We release each part from the film and cut off the excess part, if necessary, using a grinder. You can work with a hacksaw or a jigsaw, but the process in this case will be delayed. The length of each panel should be 4-5 mm shorter than the length of the room. Sand the edges and fasten with screws to the profile.

From the following panels, folded back to back, we assemble a smooth canvas. For glossy parts, the seams will be barely noticeable, for elements with a pattern, they will show through more clearly. Small grooves will remain between the thin slats. We cut off the last part according to the width of the remaining space.

Standard scheme for laying plastic panels

We cut out holes for the lamps with a knife, the wiring to them was laid even during the installation of the frame. Spotlights come in a variety of sizes and designs, so it won't be hard to find the right spotlight for your type of ceiling. We cover the edges of the plastic sheet with a frieze or corner.

The result of your efforts will be a beautifully designed suspended structure that masks all the flaws of the old ceiling.

Video selection: installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels

To finish and improve the walls and ceilings of bathrooms and kitchens, mainly tiles, paint, whitewash, and washable wallpapers were used. Or the simultaneous use of two or three of the above coatings was proposed.

But for about 15 years, plastic plates made of polyvinyl chloride have been used for these purposes, which have become very popular. Plastic plates have many positive qualities:

1. Relatively easy installation, which even a non-professional can do alone. The main thing is to be able to manage well with conventional and power tools.
2. Fast installation. Ceiling lining can be done in a few hours.
3. Color decision. Now on sale you can find plates of classic and completely unthinkable colors. This will help you find what you're looking for.
4. Exterior finish plates. The arsenal of plastic coating is diverse. There are colors of wood of different species, a mirror finish. Panels are matte, shiny, glossy.
5. Relatively inexpensive when compared with conventional types of coating (for example, with tiles).
6. Easily processed. Cut with a knife or scissors.
7. Helps to reliably mask wiring, pipes or surface irregularities.

Characteristics of PVC boards

1. Width: 25-50 cm.
2. Thickness: 5-10 mm.
3. Length: 2.7-3.0 m or 6 m.

Polyvinyl chloride as a cladding material:

• strong enough - it is difficult to break it with your hands;
• very plastic; not afraid of water;
• does not darken in the sun;
• does not conduct sound;
• clean environmentally;
• has some thermal insulation due to air channels inside;
• some species can withstand temperatures of 70-80 degrees;
• easy to clean;
• has no smell.

Newfangled LED lamps can be directly mounted on PVC panels.

Of the negative qualities, the fragility and combustibility of the material stand out.

With a large bend, it breaks, and with an accidental impact, a dent may appear on it.

Selection of panels and calculation of the amount of material

For a room with a height of 2.70 m and above, you can choose panels of any color, but it is better to take pastel, neutral colors. For a low room, you need to take light colors or mirror plates. They give a visual effect of increasing volume.

Advice: Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels.

This is the mistake of many individuals who carry out repairs on their own. It's better to ask the seller. As a last resort, it is useful to know that ceiling tiles weigh less than wall tiles.

• Calculation of PVC plates, crossbeams and skirting boards

Calculating the number of panels is easy. It is enough to divide the area of ​​​​the entire ceiling of the room being repaired (the product of the length of the room by its width) by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone PVC plate. Then we add another 15-20%, necessary to close up various kinds of gaps.

For example, you are renovating a bathroom. A riser is installed in it, and a horizontal pipe runs under the ceiling. For this option, which is not uncommon in old buildings, a special calculation is needed and 15-20% of the surplus will come in handy.

Advice: Place the panels parallel to the front door.

At the same time, if you start installation from the far wall, then each subsequent plate will hide the seam, which will allow you to get the effect of an almost seamless coating.

To calculate the length of the crossbars (metal profiles or wooden slats), it is necessary to draw a ceiling plan, reduced proportionally.

The main metal profiles (or rails) should be perpendicular to the front door. Between them, a gap of 50-60 cm should be maintained. According to the drawing, we determine the number of crossbars, taking into account 4 pieces of rigid profiles fixed around the perimeter of the room.

Ceiling plinth is much easier to calculate. We measure the perimeter with a tape measure and buy the required amount, taking into account the length of one plinth strip - 3 m.

If the ceiling needs to be lowered, then the number of U-shaped mounting plates must also be calculated.

For example:

The room measures 2.6 x 2.4 m and the door is on the long side.

You have chosen slabs 3.0x0.3 m.

To calculate this option, you can not divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plates and the ceiling, because the length of the plate overlaps the length of the room. It is only necessary to calculate how many PVC strips will fit in the width of the room.

2.4 / 0.3 = 8 lanes.

The drawing of the room might look like this:

Option 1 - strengthening the profiles directly on the ceiling of the room;

Option 2 - the crossbars are fixed to the U-shaped mounts (shown as squares).

It can be seen from the first figure that there are only 8 profiles (counting 4 along the perimeter).

To strengthen them on the ceiling and on the walls, you will need 16 dowels (two for each). Self-tapping screws are calculated based on the number of strips and profiles. PVC panels are fixed on each cross member with two self-tapping screws.

We got 8 stripes, 4 crossbars. Lateral can not be considered. The panels are simply inserted into a special groove against the wall. We expect:

8x4x2 \u003d 64 self-tapping screws + 36 for stock (for good measure) \u003d 100 pieces.

In the second figure, 2 dowels are needed for each U-shaped fastening and for side profiles on the walls

For fastenings: 8x2 = 16.

On the sidewalls: 4x2 = 8.

Total - 24 dowels.

To strengthen the strips, it is necessary, as in the first version, 64 self-tapping screws. But besides this, 16 more self-tapping screws are needed to fix the profiles on the U-shaped plates - two for each.

Panels and types of plastic profiles

The bands themselves are hollow and divided into sections. Because of this, they weigh so little. Vertical stiffeners add strength to PVC sheets.

But panels can only be fixed on a plane. Upon reaching the wall, if no action is taken, a gap will remain. To eliminate this problem, there are PVC profiles. They come in different types, but the following options for plastic profiles are most quoted and used:

1. Starting. Mounted on the walls (perimeter) for sealing the ends of the coating.
2. F profile. Closes the ends on the protruding corners. For example, in some shared bathrooms, the toilet bowl is separated from the bathtub by a wall. This profile will close the corners when moving from one part of such a bathroom to another.
3. H - profile. Serves for docking of two panels (building).
4. Plastic outer corner. It is applied at elimination of cracks, both on internal, and on external corners.
5. Plinth ceiling. Serves for decoration and for sealing the ends, like the starting one.
6. Universal PVC corner. To eliminate cracks in the corners. It's just glued on.

Preparation for installation and marking

First you need to clean the surface of the old ceiling from plaster and chips. After all, crumbling elements, such as whitewash, putty, can damage the new surface or add pressure to the plates. It is necessary to carefully prime the old ceiling.

When lowering the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the standard sizes of the lighting devices used, the presence of various kinds of communications (pipes), protrusions (beams), hidden wiring or irregularities. Only after taking into account these values ​​determine the lowest point of the ceiling. From it, the marking of the planes and the frame begins.

1. We attach a ruler to the found point, lower it to the required distance and put a mark.
2. We draw on the walls (along the perimeter, starting from the mark) a working line indicating the level of the frame of the plastic surface. This operation is performed with twine (cord) painted with colored chalk. You can use a homemade water level or
3. purchased - laser.

1. Next, we mark the places of the supporting guides located on the walls. They should be fixed on the walls perpendicular to the front door. Then, when installing PVC strips, the seams will not be noticeable.
2. Then we draw lines (retreating by 40-60 cm) for the remaining profiles or, if the ceiling level is to be significantly lowered, for U-shaped elements.

After that, we proceed to the design of the frame and the strengthening of the panels.

We mount a false ceiling from plastic panels

We start by fixing the support rails. We install one profile along the drawn line and drill a wall through it in two or three places, preparing holes for dowels.

To connect the lamps (if there are several), it is desirable that the profiles are 1-1.5 cm from the ceiling, in extreme cases, it is necessary to cut holes in them.

Having strengthened all four support rails on the walls, we proceed to the installation of auxiliary profiles. If it is planned to lower the ceiling, then ceiling U-shaped fasteners must be installed on its surface.

They are installed on one or two dowels or on anchors with wedges (depending on the design) after 50-80 cm and slightly bent from the ceiling. It is impossible to completely bend - they will interfere with the installation of profiles.

An additional profile at a certain angle is inserted at one end into the main guide. Then we bring the other end into the profile opposite, align it along the drawn line or along the U-shaped plates and fasten it with self-tapping screws first to the wall guides, and then to the fasteners on the ceiling.

Jumpers can either not be installed at all or mounted only in places where weights are fixed (chandeliers, etc.).

Having strengthened in this way, all metal profiles carry out the laying of wires (lighting and power cables). For reliable insulation and fire safety, they are pulled through a rubber or PVC hose. Loops (15 cm) are lowered at the attachment points of future lighting elements.

Plate installation

Advice: Before installation work, remove the film from the PVC elements, if any, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with the finished ceiling.

Let's get to the main part of the work. Previously, the strips must be cut to a value equal to the length of the room minus 5-10 mm. This is to ensure easy and quick installation. The installation process itself is performed as follows:

1. Either a U-shaped profile or a ceiling plinth with the same groove is screwed to the main guides with self-tapping screws. On the side walls, you can strengthen the PVC corner universal or starting profile.
2. A strip of polyvinyl chloride is inserted into a U-shaped PVC element. Many people cut off the latch, believing that it will not fit snugly in the PVC profile. But this is a delusion.
3. Strengthen the other side of the first PVC plate with self-tapping screws with an enlarged head or with the help of special home-made fasteners cut from tin. These fasteners hold the strip with their tongue, which has a clearly larger area than the head of any self-tapping screw and will not interfere with the next strip.

They are fixed as follows:

• insert the tongue into the groove of the PVC strip;
• press the element together with the panel to the guide;
• fix.

Advice: While pressing, it makes sense to pre-drill the wings of the self-made element and the guide with a thin (2-2.5 mm) drill. Then the self-tapping screw will easily screw in.

If you used wooden laths for lathing, then the wings of a home-made fastener are screwed to both sides of it. If you have drywall profiles available, then you can either screw the fasteners to the sidewalls or simply bend the protruding parts of the wings and press them firmly against the plane of the sides of the guide with pliers.

The counterpart of the second is inserted (along the length) into the open groove of the first strip. Moreover, the corners of the second strip are first inserted, so that one of them enters the lock of the first plate, and the second into the PVC side profile. Then, with light pressure, they lead into the groove and the entire strip, so that its second end enters the PVC element (starter or corner) located on the opposite side wall.

You must act carefully otherwise you risk breaking off the part of the lock clamped by screws or fasteners.

If the strips are closed unevenly, then a thin bar, a wooden ruler or a piece of the counterpart of the same PVC panel should be inserted into the locking groove of the last strip. Moving this part along the groove, gently tapping with a hammer or a wooden block gently drive the strip until it stops.

If, according to the plan, it is supposed to strengthen the lamp (spotlight) on the strip, then a hole for it can be cut with any cutting tool immediately after installation. Just be careful not to overdo it. Then the wires are brought out into the hole and the lamps are connected, although this can be done later.

You can also perform this operation on the floor before installation. First, attach the panel to the ceiling, mark the holes, lower it to the floor, cut through, and then fix it. But it takes too much time.

• Installation of the last PVC panel

This is worth talking about in particular. In the manner described above, all longitudinal elements are strengthened except for the last one.

Some inexperienced craftsmen, to facilitate installation, offer to glue it with liquid nails. But "the game is not worth the candle." To do this, you need to cut the last fragment of the ceiling very evenly. But due to the design of the panel, this is very difficult to do.

When cutting with a ruler or rail, even with a slight pressure, the plastic bends, and the knife wags to the sides. It is very difficult to get a good cut. Therefore, you need to cut from the side of the U-profile. But in this case, a noticeable seam between the panels is obtained. After all, there are inconsistent castle and reciprocal part nearby.

Therefore, it is better to carry out the installation in the usual way. Let's talk about it separately. This process is confusing to many. After all, you must simultaneously insert the strip into four grooves:

• penultimate panel lock;
• slot in the U-shaped profile;
• two grooves on the side walls.

Oddly enough, but there are no difficulties. First you need to prepare the PVC element for installation. It is necessary to set the width of the future fragment of the ceiling. This can be done with a ruler, which is inserted into the U-shaped profile on the wall perpendicular to it and the divisions are counted to the penultimate strip. This will be the width of the last fragment.

Some people will ask a reasonable question that we did not take into account the width of the groove (5 mm) of the penultimate PVC element, and the last fragment of our ceiling will hang out. But this is precisely the “trick”, especially since you did this process once or several times at home when you inserted the glass into a bookshelf or sideboard.

The depth of the U-shaped profile on the wall is 1 cm, and the depth of the lock is 5 mm. Therefore, if you insert the last fragment into the profile, and then pull it out by snapping it into the lock, then the whole structure will be assembled properly.

There is a second question. What about side slots? The answer is simple. To do this, we cut the strips. It is necessary to slightly bend the last strip in an arc and insert it into one of the side grooves until it stops. Then gradually slide it along the entire length into the U-profile.

1. Attach construction tape to the strip in two places. By pulling it, you can pull out the panel and lock it in the lock. Just try to pull parallel to the surface of the ceiling, otherwise the tape will simply break.

1. Before installing the last fragment, wrap two thin tapes of dense material over the edge. After sliding the panel into the P-element, pull the ribbons. The force of friction and a tight connection will not let them jump out immediately, and the strip will go forward. When it snaps into place, slightly bend the edge of the U-profile with a screwdriver or knife and the tape will come out. Worst case, just cut it off.

At the end of the work, install skirting boards or other decorative-hiding elements. Clean the ceiling from adhering chips, dirt, fingerprints. Connect and insert fixtures into the holes if you did not do this during installation. This completes the installation of the ceiling made of pvc panels.

A ceiling made of plastic ceiling panels is one of the options for suspended ceilings. Such ceilings are usually mounted in bathrooms, corridors and in the kitchen.

A room finished with a plastic ceiling does not look very comfortable. Installation of plastic ceiling panels in the bedroom is undesirable. No matter how the manufacturers claim that the material is absolutely harmless, finishing the ceilings with plastic in rooms where you stay for a long time is not the best option. In addition, if the length of the room is more than 3 meters, you will have to join the panels, and this looks ugly.

How to choose the necessary materials

The choice of plastic panels for the ceiling

Light-colored panels are usually used for finishing ceilings.

On sale there are panels with colors that mimic the rack ceiling. In terms of cost, plastic ceiling panels are much cheaper than aluminum slats for finishing the ceiling, and in appearance it is sometimes difficult to distinguish a plastic ceiling from an aluminum slatted one.

Such panels have standard dimensions - width 240 mm, length 3000 mm.

In the photo - plastic panels imitating a rack ceiling.

The advantages of finishing the ceiling with plastic panels include the speed of installation. The ceiling does not need to be leveled with plaster mixtures. The ability to insert spotlights into the suspended ceiling allows you to create cozy lighting in the room. The price of plastic ceiling panels is available for economy class repairs.

Material calculation

You will need:

• panels
• aluminum profile
• dowel
• self-tapping screws galvanized with a press washer
• ceiling plinth
• electrical cable

Standard panels are 24 cm wide and 2.7 m or 3 m long. Divide the room width by the panel width. When planning the finishing of ceilings in two rooms, consider how it is more profitable to mount the panels so that the trimmings can be used in the toilet or on the balcony.

Buy panels designed specifically for ceilings. Wall panels are stronger and heavier in weight. Strength for ceiling panels is not required, but excess weight will create an unnecessary load on the ceiling frame.

To mount the panels, you will need an aluminum profile. It is allowed to mount plastic ceiling panels on a crate made of wooden beams, but in wet rooms it is better to use a profile. The beam deforms over time from moisture and the panels may warp.

A guide U-shaped profile with a cross section of 27-28 mm is mounted along the perimeter of the room. It is marked PN, or marked PNP - ceiling guide profile.

To figure out which profile serves which purpose, consider the photo. The number of guide profile is easy to calculate. The profile is produced with a length of 3 m. Divide the perimeter of the room by 3 and round up to a whole number.

To form the frame, you will need a ceiling profile - PP. Such a profile is installed perpendicular to the panels every 60 cm. Based on the width of the room, you can calculate how much ceiling profile is needed.

To fix the ceiling profile, suspensions are needed.

Hangers are mounted at a distance from the wall - 30 cm, then - after 60 cm. Based on the length of the profile, calculate how many hangers are required for each profile.

Dowels are used to fasten the guide profile to the wall and hangers to the ceiling. The profile is attached to the dowels in the corners and then after 20-30 cm. At least two dowels are required for each suspension. Do not try to count the exact number of dowel-nails. Take it with a margin - dowel nails will always come in handy for subsequent repairs, so it's not scary if two or three dozen remain superfluous.

To fasten the panels to the frame and connect the guide and ceiling profiles, you will need galvanized self-tapping screws - a press washer 4.2x16mm. The price of self-tapping screws is small - buy 150-200 pieces.

The ceiling plinth for plastic panels is used in two types - PVC plinth or ordinary polyurethane. The plinth PVC is installed before the installation of the panels. If the walls in the room are uneven, it is better to close the joint between the wall and the false ceiling with a polyurethane skirting board.

PVC plinth bridges the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and at the same time serves for mounting plastic panels.

The ceiling plinth is mounted around the perimeter of the room. The number of skirting boards is easy to calculate by dividing the perimeter of the room by the length of the skirting board and rounding the resulting value.

Purchase the required number of fixtures and an electrical cable to connect them.

When installing panels on a wooden crate, you will need timber, slats and brackets for attaching the panels.

How to properly install plastic ceiling panels

Instruments

• level
• pencil or marker
• roulette
• perforator
• metal scissors
• screwdriver
• hacksaw or jigsaw
• drill with crown
• construction or clerical knife

Operating procedure

Mark a horizontal line along the perimeter of the room using a hydrolevel (water level). You can use the usual building level, but the hydraulic level gives fewer errors. Make sure there are no air bubbles in the connecting hose. The easiest way to make marks is with a laser level, but a laser level is an expensive tool and not every home master has it in stock.

Fasten the guide profile according to the marks. The profile is attached to the dowels at a distance of 30-50 cm. Cut the profile to length. The profile can be cut with a grinder, but it is cut well enough with metal scissors. Bulgarian, perhaps, it will turn out faster, but it is easier with scissors.

Make holes in the wall with a hammer drill for concrete. Fix the profile with dowels.

Fix hangers for the ceiling profile. Suspensions are necessary for reliable fastening of the frame to the ceiling and for adjusting the level at which the profile will be mounted.

Fasten the PVC plinth to the guide profile.

Install the ceiling profile to which you will attach the panels. The PP profile is attached to the suspensions and to the PN profile with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The ceiling profile is fixed perpendicular to the direction of the plastic panels.

When using a PVC skirting board, fix the skirting board with self-tapping screws to the guide profile along the perimeter of the room. At the corners, the plinth is cut at an angle of 45 °.

Bring out the electrical cable for mounting fixtures.

Cut the panels to length. The panel is cut with a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.

Insert the edge of the panel into the groove of the plinth. Fasten the panel shelf with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile. The next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed with self-tapping screws in the same way as the first. In the photo - installation of panels without PVC plinth, a hole for the lamp is cut along the edge of the panel.

Holes for fixtures are cut out before mounting the panel using a drill with a crown or a knife.

When installing the last panel, cut it to the width.

Install and connect lights. Lamps are connected in parallel.

Use liquid nails to glue the polyurethane baseboard if you did not use a PVC baseboard.

When installing panels on a wooden crate, the principle of the work order is the same. The panel is attached to a bar or rail with brackets.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How to mark the flow level - correctly, or beautifully?

When installing plastic ceiling panels, it is important to install the false ceiling evenly over the entire plane. It happens that the tiles with which the walls are lined are incorrectly laid. It turns out that if the ceiling is mounted strictly according to the level, tile laying errors will become noticeable. It is permissible to mount the ceiling parallel to the last seam of the tile. It will not skew much, but it will not be visually noticeable that the tile is not laid exactly evenly.

How to fix the last panel?

The last panel is not fastened with screws, it is inserted into the groove of the previous panel and into the groove of the PVC skirting board or guide profile. Due to the low weight, the panel is firmly held in its position.

How to install a polyurethane ceiling skirting board?

A polyurethane or foam ceiling plinth is glued to the glue with liquid nails. The corners are cut to the miter box. If a gap forms between the wall and the plinth, it is sealed with acrylic sealant.

Video instructions for installing a plastic ceiling.

Among all the options for inexpensive finishes, there is probably no more versatile material than. They are suitable for decorating ceiling surfaces, walls, and at the same time, they have a fairly impressive list of positive qualities. But not everyone knows how to sheathe walls or ceilings with plastic. This article will discuss in detail the installation of plastic on walls and ceilings, as well as a video demonstrating the installation process.

What is required for work

It is easy to assemble a plastic wall or ceiling cladding with your own hands, and at the end of the material there is a video demonstrating this. To facilitate the preparation and the work itself, there is also a detailed instruction, after reading which, there should not be any incomprehensible moments.

Before attaching plastic to the ceiling or walls, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of material. This is easy to do - you need to divide the surface area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plank. They are different and specific data on the selected varieties are on the packaging or on the product price tag.

In addition to the coating material, it is necessary to prepare the material for assembling the frame. It can be made from wood or metal profiles. The number of components depends on the type of structure, its complexity and is calculated in each case individually. After the components necessary for installation are purchased and ready for installation, you need to check the availability of the necessary tools. You don't need too many tools:

• Hacksaw for metal
• screwdriver
• Building or laser level
• Roulette
• A hammer
• In some cases, a construction stapler and a plumb line

After the materials and tools are ready, you can proceed to the next stage of work - surface preparation. In videos that show how to knock out a ceiling with plastic, this stage of work is often omitted, but it is necessary.

Training

This is a simple operation and consists in the fact that the entire area that will be hidden under the plane of the new coating must be treated or impregnated with a bactericidal effect. Such processing is carried out so that mold does not appear under the future coating or fungus does not develop. Before that, all traces of the old finish and peeling fragments of plaster or putty are removed using improvised tools, such as a spatula.

frame

To fix the skin is necessary. Regardless of where the plastic will be mounted - on the ceiling or on the wall, such a frame is required. Without it, there will be nowhere to attach fragments of the coating, and in the video below, which demonstrates how to hem the ceiling with plastic, attention is also paid to the frame.

The distance between the elements of the crate is from 30 to 40 centimeters. At the same time, if installation is carried out on the ceiling, the distance should not exceed 30 centimeters - otherwise, the coating may sag under its own weight.

Mounting panels on the wall

After assembling the base or batten, you can begin to fix the details of the outer covering of plastic panels. This process is slightly different from how plastic is mounted on the ceiling.

It all starts with the corner or the final part. As a rule, this is a plastic corner or a special element that covers the end of the part. The first plank of the cover is inserted into it. If the length of the plank reaches the overlap and a solid surface is assembled, a decorative plinth of a special shape is installed at the top, into which the end of the plank is inserted.

When the first part is installed, it must be fixed. You can do this with a self-tapping screw, clamps or staples from a stapler. Next, the next cover element is inserted, with a protrusion into the groove of the previous panel. You need to insert tightly, until it stops. This is how the entire coverage area is assembled with the obligatory fixation of each detail.

It is inserted with force, one side into the final corner or end piece, and the other into the previous panel. If necessary, the fragment is adjusted in size to the desired dimensions by sawing off or cutting off the excess part. Below is a video that shows how to mount the plastic on the wall and ceiling - after assembling the crate, these processes differ slightly.

Floor mount

Asking the question - how to make a plastic ceiling, you need to take into account some points of this work. Firstly, it is better to do this work with an assistant - it will be much easier, since everything will have to be done on weight, but otherwise, you can assemble a plastic ceiling with your own hands and there is nothing complicated about it.

Secondly, you need to take into account the distance that will be required to install the fixtures. Their ceiling part should not touch the ceiling. This is an important point, since everything should be taken into account when marking, even before you hem the ceiling with plastic and assemble the crate.

Usually, this distance is about 10 or 15 centimeters. It can be a little more or less, in accordance with the dimensions of the room and the design of the lighting devices, but, in any case, no less than the lighting required for installation.

Next comes the assembly of the frame. It is assembled in much the same way as on the wall, differing only in the shape of the parts used - the end part of the panels is inserted into a plinth fixed to the wall, in which there is a special groove for this. It is installed first, strictly horizontally, according to the pre-applied markings. Here you will need a building level, and even better - a laser one.

After the crate is installed, it is possible to sheathe the ceiling with plastic and in order to make it easier to understand the intricacies of this process, below are several videos that detail all the stages of work.