Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do it efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.
Save money without sacrificing quality – room requirements and materials
Poorly thought out extension design over time will force something to be redone or completed, attached to country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with the choice of location and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to building small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Another common type of outbuildings are kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and sum them up even before the start of construction. Sewer pipes, water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to make their way under it later. increased attention requires waterproofing floor covering. We are thinking about warming, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then this can be saved.
Expand the house and an extension of the veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, a door, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but foundation waterproofing is necessary.
An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main building. If the house has an exterior finish, then it will not be difficult to repeat it on the attached premises. With all materials, wood is well combined, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:
- built quickly, in just a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
- without special knowledge and skills, it is available for construction with your own hands;
- will cost less.
The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this respect, they differ favorably frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage.
If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is made single-pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
Pillar base - fast, cheap, reliable
For column foundation extensions to the house use concrete, brick, or a combination of both. It is done mainly for a living room or a veranda. If applied to a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input is required engineering communications to the house. Since protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, you can go for such expenses, it will still come out cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfilling, a fence around the perimeter.
We start with the marking of the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from one another. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top, we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a layer of sand of 10 cm, carefully ram, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We lay out the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, we fill each hole with a little concrete mortar for the base and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make formwork for the plinth, inside which we launch the film. Concrete is poured in layers, each layer is pierced several times with a bar so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it seizes, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation has gained the desired strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the poles and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. Between the pillars there was a space that it is desirable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. Apply ordinary land mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, we ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar one, it is solid.
Getting started - lower trim and extension floor
So we settled on frame version as the fastest and cheapest. For a tree to serve for a long time, you need to follow two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing the most reliable means – bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually a beam of 150 × 150 mm is used, but boards of 150 × 50 mm can be used. We lay them horizontally around the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. The second row is laid on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes under the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect on the ground, and then lay it. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern after 20 cm. It turns out the strapping desired thickness, which also has additional advantages:
- is much cheaper than bars;
- it is very easy to connect with each other, with bars it is more difficult.
We attach the lower trim to the beds from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next, we expose the logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60-80 cm, but it all depends on the size frame extension: the longer the lags, the already we install them. They are attached to the binding board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now let's move on to floor insulation. The cheapest, though not very eco-friendly option- tile expanded polystyrene with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only one of the heaters that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50 × 50 mm bars to the lower edges of the log, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay it so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.
The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we lay it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are apart. A rough base is not necessary in the presence of edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or plywood 15 mm. We lay directly on the lags.
Wall mounting - two assembly technologies
There are two assembly technologies frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is sheathed immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on the spot. Which is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; helpers will be required.
We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
Attachment can be easily and securely carried out metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for corners. One incorrectly set beam will cause the entire extension to bend.
Temporary cuts, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a hard and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary cuttings. When soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be dispensed with. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: beds made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from the boards 150 × 50 on the edge with nails.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
Shed roof - design and implementation technology
The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When attached building located along the length, its roof is single-pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in the height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.
The roof is supported by rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them on the ground according to the template so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, it will not be necessary to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten to the walls with brackets, metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material we make it solid or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. wooden flooring occurs when using soft material, sparse we do for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, ondulin - with nails with a wide hat. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: the wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.
Warming is a mandatory operation for an extension
For the insulation of buildings, mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used. Mineral wool resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a small weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: it is very fond of rodents, it releases toxic gases in case of fire.
Warming from the inside is carried out in the following sequence:
- 1. We mount the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler in such a way as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
- 2. We lay the insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, the seams between separate elements we close the insulating material by overlapping the next layer.
- 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. Fastening is carried out similarly to waterproofing.
- 4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We apply drywall perfectly even frame or OSB if there are irregularities. It is more rigid and smoothes out flaws.
Remained internal and exterior finish where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, has been serving for decades, and it can be built with little or no outside help.
A porch, a veranda, a covered terrace, another living or service room - this is how an extension to a house made of timber may look like. And this choice of material does not depend on what the building itself is built from. The tree will perfectly fit into the design of a private house in any style.
An extension to a house made of timber can repeat the geometry of the main building, and be no smaller in area than it
What needs to be done before starting construction
Home extensions come in a variety of uses.
If this is a capital extension to a private house, then it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local municipal authorities. The only relief is that there are already rights to the land, and the legalization procedure will be simplified.
Non-capital extensions that do not affect the structure of the house and do not change the scheme engineering networks do not need a building permit. These include:
-
covered terrace;
-
external staircase;
Also, permission is not needed if it is an auxiliary structure that does not affect load-bearing structures and communications of the main building. For example, for an attached summer kitchen permission is needed, but for an attached gazebo with a garden fireplace - no.
If we are talking about expanding the building, then this already applies to the reconstruction of the house (regardless of the seasonality of residence), and permits must be issued. This must be done for the following reasons:
the extension will take a certain place on the site, and may violate standard distances to the boundaries of the site, water intake points, septic tank, gas tank;
the design of the house is changing, which means that the shares of property rights are changing;
technical documentation in the municipal authorities will not correspond to reality, and this is a fine and blocking of any real estate transaction until the reconstruction is legalized or the illegal extension is eliminated.
But, if a construction organization is engaged in this, then obtaining a permit is the concern of the specialists of the company that will develop the extension project.
Foundation
The main difficulty in building an extension is that it needs its own foundation.
During the construction of the house, the foundation is made as single structure, which redistributes the total load on all the “spot” of the development. And the foundation around the entire perimeter is the same: for the tape - this is the thickness and depth of the foundation, for piles - the length, section size and distance between them.
For a capital extension, you need the same foundation as for the whole house. You can, of course, put another one, but there will be no full guarantee that it will “behave” in the same way as the main one. Even when the new foundation bearing characteristics identical to the old one, a crack may form at the junction of the tape due to uneven settlement - the soil under the house has already settled, and under the extension it will only begin to deform.
If the house is relatively new, and there is project documentation for it, then it is not difficult to determine the parameters of the foundation.
The same clear technology, if you need to reconstruct the foundation of the house. For example, when with a plot in the "inheritance" got old house and they remake it “for” themselves, at the same time constructing an extension from a bar to log house. In this case, the reconstruction of the old foundation and the construction of a new one are carried out using the same technology.
The third option is to explore old foundation. The tape must be dug up (this will still have to be done where the extension adjoins), determine the materials and the depth of the foundation. And the parameters of the pile - to determine "by eye". That is, in fact, to conduct a small engineering survey.
It is not difficult to tie a pile or screw new foundation to the old one - this is done at the level of the grillage after the supports are installed.
Strip foundations are connected with reinforcement. For this, the wall of the base of the house is dug out along the contour of the trench for the foundation of the extension. Holes are drilled in the base wall according to the diameter of the reinforcement, pins are driven in there and the frame of the new foundation is tied to them.
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses from profiled timber construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".
Features of an extension from a bar. Material selection
A beam, like a log, is not so often used to build an extension to a house. In most cases for wooden annex choose frame technology construction - cheaper, easier, less load on the soil and sediment, which means you can lay a lighter foundation. And the main advantage is everything construction works and finishing can be started and finished in one season.
An extension from a bar can be made in one season only if it is glued or chamber drying. Both materials practically do not shrink, so there will be no changes in the geometry of walls and partitions.
bar natural humidity dries out for a long time, therefore, after the construction of the walls and the erection of the roof, the extension should stand for at least a year. And only after that it is possible to install windows, doors, install communications and carry out finishing.
Another factor affecting the speed of construction and the cost of materials is the purity of processing. Walls made of planed or glued laminated timber practically do not need to be modified, and they can simply be varnished.
There are two options to make an extension from a bar to wooden house- fast, but expensive or cheaper, but longer. For comparison, below is the approximate price level for 1 m 3 of a bar of one of the most “running” sizes of 150x150x6000 mm:
edged (construction) - 6000-6300 rubles;
1 grade - 7000-7300 rubles:
profiled natural humidity - 8500-9000 rubles;
profiled chamber drying - 9500-10000 rubles;
planed natural humidity - 9000-9500 rubles;
planed chamber drying - 10500-11500 rubles;
glued - 21000-23000 rubles.
Of course, if they make an extension to a wooden house from a bar, then they choose the type that was used for the main building.
On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer extensions to existing houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Features of an extension from a bar of natural humidity. Connection to home
A solid and reliable foundation is only part of the problem, which, in principle, is characteristic of all capital extensions. This is not a porch and not a summer veranda, for which the tightness and thermal insulation of the joint to the facade of the house is not so important. And for an attached living space, it is important that there are no gaps.
For brick building brick house the task of sealing is solved simply - both materials are equally stable and do not change their dimensions either with time or with changes in humidity. And here we use the usual mounting foam, which is sealed from above with a cement-sand mortar.
The tree behaves differently. Especially if you use a bar of natural moisture - the frozen foam will simply break. Therefore, the joint between the facade of the house and the extension wall must be made in the form of a windproof “sliding” knot.
The principle itself is not new - a similar technique is used when connecting the casing (landing frame) of the window to the walls wooden house. Or in the same way attached to the walls internal partitions from a beam.
There is different ways connection of an extension made of wood to the facade of the house. And the choice of a particular type depends on the materials of the facade.
Timber extension to a wooden house
You can attach the external (and internal) walls of an extension to a wooden house from a bar in the following ways:
On a bar. To a flat wall surface or evenly cut ends of the log house, a bar is stuffed, having previously laid a tape along the connection line. interventional insulation. At the ends of the extension beam, a groove is cut to the size of the bar. They connect both walls (old and new) with a thorn-groove lock, laying it with another layer of interventional insulation.
On slotted in wooden facade groove. If it is necessary to attach the extension wall to the log house in the middle of the facade, then there is no point in filling the mortgage bar - there will be large gaps between it and the “wavy” wall. In this case, a groove is cut on the facade along the width of the beam and connected through tape insulation.
In both cases, next to the junction, the beam must be connected to each other on dowels - so that the wall settles equally in height, and the crowns do not diverge due to the difference in friction force on different areas node.
Video description
Visually about joining the beam with the wall of a wooden house and the use of dowels, see the video:
Video description
And the next video shows the first part of the work on the reconstruction of the same house, which tells about the preparation - laying the foundation. It is interesting here that the annex is larger than the main building
There is a third way - connecting the facade and the extension wall with brackets. For thermal insulation of the joint, a tape insulation is laid in it and closed with a flashing. After the end of the active phase of shrinkage (at least a year), the flashing and staples are removed, the joint is caulked again, the staples are hammered again and again closed with a flashing.
Extension to a brick house
To the facade of brick or building blocks, most often the timber wall of the extension is attached through additional beam with cut groove. In essence, the method is similar to the principle of connecting with wooden wall"into the groove". In principle, you can use mounting on a bar, but it is more difficult to fix it directly to the facade with anchors, and if you use corners, they will interfere with the “sliding” of the wall from the bar during shrinkage.
The connection in the groove is effective in any case - both in terms of tightness and engagement strength. And the thermal insulation of the connection point of the extension from the timber to the brick house is provided with the same interventional insulation.
Important! Between the wall and the beam with a groove, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing tape. it required condition protection against decay of wood along the line of contact with brick or concrete.
Roof
There are no special features during the construction of the roof of the extension. Usually it is either single-sided or gable roof. The truss system of both types belongs to the simplest and the main difficulty is to ensure the tightness of the junction.
If the roof adjoins the facade, then the manufacturer of any roofing materials in the installation instructions describes almost all possible combinations of junction points to other surfaces, regardless of their materials.
If the roof of the extension continues the slope of the roof of the house, then it all depends on the height of the facade. In the simplest case, with the same slope of the two sections, you will have to “build up” the rafter legs from this side. A more complex option is to change the slope angle (like a sloping roof). But even in this case, the technology for arranging the roof is standard.
If the house and the extension are “covered” with one roof (as happens during the reconstruction of a building), then they arrange a common truss system with one Mauerlat or upper trim circuit.
Conclusion
An extension made of timber in terms of manufacturing complexity does not differ from construction log house. It also needs a detailed project from the foundation to the roof. And of course, the need to refine existing engineering communications imposes a special complexity. For electrical networks new points of consumption will appear, and this is a change in the load and modes of the emergency protection system. For autonomous heating new thermal calculations (and possibly equipment replacement) will be required. It may also turn out that it will be necessary to “build up” pipelines for water and sewerage.
One of the advantages of private home ownership is the ability, if necessary, to increase usable area by attaching an additional one to the main structure. Thus, residential or utility rooms are obtained, for whom what functionality was not enough. In order for the extension to improve the living conditions of the owners, and not organize problems for them, it must be built according to existing technologies, and not according to the principle "somehow, if only it would be cheaper." Therefore, we will figure out how to properly settle down to the house, relying on generally accepted methods and experience of FORUMHOUSE users.
- Foundation for extensions
- Wall materials
- Wall bonding methods
- How to make a roof
- Outbuilding functionality
- Registration of outbuildings
Foundation for extensions
There are two types of foundation for an extension - a rigid hitch and expansion joint.
rigid hitch
Such a connection is designed for non-rocky soil and is justified when erecting a heavy structure of two or more floors, but only if the main building has already settled down and the village. The new foundation must be of the same type as the main one (tape, slab) and match in depth, taking into account possible shrinkage. A bunch of tapes is made by means of reinforcement, for which the foundation of the house is dug out to the full depth; in the working area, too much exposure is fraught with deformation.
Holes for reinforcement are drilled in a checkerboard pattern in the foundation sheet, on the basis that their length is 35 times larger diameter rod, and the length of the reinforcement itself is twice as large as the depth of the holes. The reinforcement is driven into the holes, in the future the protruding part will be filled with concrete, a common monolith will be obtained. A bunch of plates is possible with a thickness of more than 40 cm and the presence of a protrusion of the main plate of 30 cm; for coupling, the reinforcement is beaten off and welded to the reinforcing cage of the new plate.
To perform a rigid hitch, it must be borne in mind that the flooded one, connected to the main one, must settle, ideally within a year. If it is not possible to withstand such a period, it is better to use another method.
Expansion joint
The most common type of bond is when a completely independent one is poured near the old foundation. Optimal on heaving soils for lightweight structures, the thickness of the seam is from 2 to 5 cm. To aesthetically connect the foundations, and
the seam at the junction remained the same along the entire length; boards pre-wrapped with polyethylene or roofing felt are used. Since the load on the base will be less, the drawdown will also be less, and the seam will allow the extension to “play” as planned without affecting the integrity of the house.
During the construction process, the joint between the walls is filled with insulation, and the seam itself is subsequently sealed with elastic means or closed with special flashings. One of the users found an interesting solution - stainless steel overlays, between which there is a layer of corrugated rubber.
zhp FORUMHOUSE User
In principle, you can buy such a "closing" for an expansion joint, immediately insulate the distance between the walls normally, close it from the street with a "closing", and if over time there is shrinkage, compression or stretching, the "closing" compensates for this moment. And in order to return the rubber to its previous shape, it will be possible to unscrew the screws from the left side and drill again, in new places in the bricks.
Since the foundations are not interconnected, any type can be chosen for the extension, based on the characteristics of the soil and the expected load. It can be slab (monolith or UWB), tape (MZF or to the freezing depth) or columnar (pile).
Portal users prefer joining foundations through expansion joints, as the most justified and safe way.
mfcn Member FORUMHOUSE
Whatever good (non-rocky) soil, if it is not a rock, then you should expect shrinkage of the foundation of the extension in relation to the main house. Accordingly, measures must be taken to ensure that these shrinkages are non-destructive to the structure and provide acceptable functional properties of the structure. Hence: annex - in fact new house next to the old or light structure, the walking of which is permissible, and violations of the horizontal floor and jamming of the doors are permissible.
materials
Modern market building materials offers big choice for every taste and budget. Extensions made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, cinder block and similar large-format masonry varieties and frame structures. Frames are in the lead due to the speed of construction, relative accessibility and simplicity; in terms of energy efficiency, they are not inferior to stone buildings due to the use of heaters.
However, if possible, it is recommended to choose a material similar to the main one: a wooden extension to a wooden house, etc. This is especially true for houses that are not supposed to be sewn up with the same facade as the extension. If you plan to use siding or similar cladding, the choice is not limited.
Wall tie options
An extension to the house can have four walls or three, then the role of the fourth plays outer wall at home. Four walls are relevant in extensions made of masonry materials, a bunch of walls is not required, and compliance with the masonry level gives an even seam. The presence of a layer of insulation between the walls allows the use of thinner blocks for the adjoining wall. In frame construction, sliding ligaments are used: two vertical beams are stuffed onto the wall, between which they start vertical bar extensions.
Connecting beams in the annex
When the extension is assembled from profiled or glued beams or logs, the walls are connected to the house either with metal brackets or with special galvanized corners with a shelf of 63 mm or more.
The corners are planted on self-tapping screws, leaving a small gap for shrinkage. The seam in both cases is closed with a flashing or platband. Also, the joining of the beams in the extension is carried out by means of a tenon-groove system, the grooves are selected in the load-bearing wall, the tenon is cut on the built-in segments.
Roof device methods
The extension is brought under a common roof when hard connection if a expansion joint is selected, it is easier to cover the building separately, sealing the junction. Depending on the roofing material, the seam is closed with a stainless steel apron, 30 cm wide or with a special decorative element.
Rigid connection to the house from a bar.
mfcn
The shrinkage of the extension in relation to the main house imposes certain restrictions on the arrangement of the roof. Therefore, in practice, making an extension with a roof such as a continuation of the existing one should be deliberate and reasonable.
Functional
As with the construction of a house, before erecting an extension, it is necessary to determine in advance the functionality, since different purposes require appropriate construction manipulations. If it is intended to living rooms need more insulation. For the boiler room, bathroom or kitchen, communications are immediately laid. It's easier to change your mind and close a couple plastic pipes into the wall than to decide that another bathroom is more needed and peck at a freshly built one.
Legalization of the extension
Before building a major extension, a permit must be obtained. In the city, this is done by the department of architecture and urban planning, in rural settlements - by the administration. You can build without papers, but then when you try to sell, bequeath or donate a house with an extension, you still have to draw up documents, but it’s more difficult, through the courts. In the event of a confrontation with the neighbors, they can sue the self-builder and insist on the demolition.
For anyone planning an extension, it is useful to study the topic on the forum. The user experience of our portal in the topic is also interesting. The article will help determine the type of foundation under future design. And our video will teach you how to work with aerated concrete.
A winter garden, a kitchen, a spacious library, a living room, etc. can be successfully located on the newly minted area of the house. There are plenty of options! They depend on the wishes of the owner and his needs. If you have determined what exactly you are missing in the house, you should take care of the preparation of materials.
Usually, for the construction of an extension, materials are used that do not burden the building and have good thermal insulation characteristics. Basically, the owners choose sandwich panels and quality timber. When it comes to building winter garden, you need to understand that glass panels make the structure heavier and require a powerful foundation.
Extensions to the house and their types
Today, an extension to the house can be carried out in various options, but the most popular are:
- side with a combined roof;
- side with its own roof;
- attic;
- superstructure for the second floor and above.
The first option is the most budgetary, since the existing roof is only extended by the extension area. The main structure is being completed from either side, then a doorway is broken through, and thus the living area is increased.
The second option is suitable in a situation where it is not possible to make a common roof. The consumption of materials and the cost of labor increase.
The subtleties of creating an extension to the house
- Heating in the annex is better to equip according to the type " warm floors» or use electric heaters.
- Roof - ideal option it is considered a similar type with a main roof, but a smaller slope. For a veranda and a winter garden it is worth making a glass roof.
- A floor with a terrace can be made from the same material and at the same level to create the integrity of the image.
- Slider doors are an option, cheaper than a hinged model. It gives a special charm to the room.
Interior decoration of the extension
The interior space of the extension depends on the layout of the room. In addition to functionality, it is necessary to take into account that style orientation should be the same everywhere. Most owners make out new area in the same invoice color scheme as other rooms. However, experiments and unusual solutions are not ruled out.
- In the annex, you can organize a kitchen area with a dining area. Using finishing with light materials, you can expand the space. If it is not possible to provide sufficient solar lighting through windows, a glass ceiling should be built.
- In the glazed large veranda, you can make a modern living room in country style. Hard to find more rational decision than facing structures with wood and stone. These materials are considered the most suitable for country houses.
External design of the extension - ideas
In private houses of the city, most of the outbuildings are located in the backyard, but there are also possibilities for organizing an additional room that is visible to everyone. They are attached at the main entrance, and therefore the extension to the house is the main one.
For its construction, you can use similar materials used for the house and its cladding. Thus, a harmonious exterior is created, and the building itself looks like a single ensemble.
An extension that is different in appearance from the house can be made of glass. In this case, the glazed stylish veranda will be flooded all day sunlight. Great solution there will be an unusually shaped building, designed as a garden or park.
Snow-white color wide extension, made in the French style, can play the role of a spacious living room, and its roof - an open spacious area with an original fence.
On a spacious cemented area it is possible to equip a place for a barbecue, as well as a dining area.
If the extension of one of the walls is next to a fence or a house, it should be deaf, and the remaining surfaces should be made of glass from the floor under the ceiling, either with a low stone or brick foundation. If you need to create an extension-veranda or living room, you can use frosted glass walls. Sliding door models will also be appropriate here.
If two walls of the extension are deaf, and on the roof can not be performed glass windows, then at least one of the walls must be made of glass. In this way, natural light can be provided.
Extension to the house in the style of a winter garden assumes the presence of glass to the roof. The most spectacular are the Victorian extensions with light frames, sharp views of the vaults and Gothic deglazing. They can serve as a dining room and an additional living room.
The summer terrace is usually built from a small amount of materials, because it is often arranged in a rustic style. For the winter, it can be covered with polycarbonate sheets.
Sometimes an extension may look like a separate building, but at the same time a corridor from the house stretches to it. They are often positioned as a greenhouse, summer guest house or kitchen.
Extension to the house - learning style from the British (photo)
We hope you find the ideas interesting!
Insufficient space is a common occurrence in private homes. Therefore, the design of the building has to be changed. One of the ways is a frame extension to the house.
When building an additional room, it all depends on its purpose. Indeed, different requirements are imposed on the veranda, kitchen, bathroom and additional living space. For example, adding another room in terms of complexity can be compared with the construction small house. There are increased requirements for the thermal insulation of walls, foundations, ceilings and floors.
With the addition of a summer veranda it will be easier. It's easy unheated building, for the construction of which a powerful foundation is not required. By and large, the design of the terrace comes down to flooring, roofing and walls. However, sometimes homeowners prefer a veranda in the form of a glazed gallery. The main thing is that the extension does not get out of general style at home.
Requirements for the construction of an extension depend on its purpose.
Difficulty arises with the bathroom and kitchen, especially when the water supply to the house has already been supplied and additional lines will need to be laid in new premises. There may be problems with the heating system. Take care of communications before arranging the foundation, this will save you time and money in the future. As a last resort, designate (equip) exit points for heating and water pipes.
Regardless of which room you are going to attach to the house, the construction comes down to standard steps:
- Design;
- Filling / arrangement of the foundation;
- The erection of the wall frame and its sheathing;
- Roof installation.
It turns out that adding an additional room to the house with your own hands does not differ from the construction of any other building. And the reliability of the entire structure will depend on the quality of the foundation. The statement is true for every building.
A frame extension attached to a wooden house, as a rule, is light in weight, therefore, it makes no sense to fill in a monolithic base a couple of meters deep. For an attached veranda made of wood or glass, a columnar foundation made of brick, stone or concrete will suffice.
For the construction of an additional room, a strip foundation is often used.
The basis for the future construction is selected based on its weight. Apply the following types foundations:
Tape. As a rule, it is used when the building has an increased mass. Carry out appropriate calculations at the design stage;
Pillar foundation. It is used when the extension to the house from the frame does not differ in weight (veranda, bathroom, summer kitchen);
Pile and pile-grillage foundation - complex structure from reinforced concrete products, which has a considerable margin of safety and the same price. When building extensions, it is rarely used.
For the construction of additional premises, tape and columnar bases.But many prefer a tape-type foundation, the arrangement of which boils down to the following steps:
- 1. On the ground, in accordance with the project, we apply markings. She outlines the boundary of the attached room;
- 2. Along the marking lines, we dig a trench for the future foundation. Its depth should be the same as at the base of the house itself. The width is 15 cm more than future walls;
- 3. We fill the trench with crushed stone and sand 15–20 cm thick. This pillow must be moistened, rammed and covered with a layer of roofing material and similar waterproof materials. This will protect the foundation from groundwater;
- 4. We equip the formwork - its height is equal to the height of the future base;
- 5. We install reinforcement in the trenches to give the base additional rigidity;
- 6. Pour concrete. You can make it yourself in the proportions of 1 part of cement, 3 sand and 6 crushed stone. But if the area is at large volumes, you can order the required volume of the solution.
The trench is dug along the marking line
AT hot weather the foundation is preferably watered. This will prevent the appearance of microcracks during the hardening of concrete. The base will gain strength within a month, but the formwork can be removed after 14 days.
Frame for walls - the necessary materials and stages of construction
As a rule, wood is used to create a frame. Stock up on timber (15 * 15 cm) and future floor lags (10 * 15 cm), the amount depends on the size of your building. In addition to wooden blanks, we need insulation, vapor barrier and consumables. The latter include anchors, self-tapping screws, bolts, sealants, fire-fighting solutions and antiseptics.
The work on the construction of walls begins with the lower strapping. First we lay the beam along the wall of the building. Then, along the perimeter of the foundation, we put the remaining bars and fasten them to the base of the house with the help of anchor bolts. We connect the bars between ourselves with metal corners or dowels. In the strapping at a distance of 50 cm, we make notches or gashes for future vertical racks.
We install the supports in the grooves prepared for them and fasten them with self-tapping screws, additionally fix them with steel brackets and stops. After we finish with the installation of the racks, we proceed to the installation of the upper harness. Its assembly is fundamentally no different from the bottom. But above the strapping, you will need to fasten a horizontal beam-beam to the wall, this is the future base for the rafter system. Under it, we install racks resting on the harness. We fix the beam to the wall with anchors.
After completing work with the upper trim, we remove the jibs that support the racks. We add door and window frames to the frame "skeleton" of the extension. The basis of the future room is interfaced with the house by means of a vertical beam-rack. It is attracted to the building by anchor bolts.
We will give the structure additional rigidity. To do this, we sew it with outside plywood or boards. There are no strict requirements, the choice of material is up to you. By and large, after the erection of the roof, flooring and installation of windows, we will get a summer terrace. In winter rooms, we still have to work on insulation, but this is best done with a roof over our heads.
The roof over the extension can be erected single or gable. However, a roof with two slopes differs in weight and some complexity during construction. Therefore, a roof with one slope for an attached room is considered quite a worthy option.
The construction of the roof begins with the rafters: at one end we put them on top harness, the second on a horizontal bar fastened to the wall of the house. Fix with staples. Some difficulty may arise with the angle of inclination. But as a rule, it is thought out even during the design and is reflected in project documentation. rafter legs we lay them so that they protrude at least 30 cm beyond the wall. This will protect the material of the walls from the effects of precipitation.
It is better to cover the roof of the extension with the same material as the main one.
We will cover the roof of the extension with the same material as the main house. But under it you will need a crate, the frequency of which depends on the type of roofing. For a soft roof, the crate should be almost continuous. You can even use plywood and its analogues. But for slate, corrugated board or metal tiles, the distance between the boards of the crate does not play a big role. Sometimes, when the rafters are close to each other, they do without a crate at all.
Before laying the roofing material, the frame of the future roof is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Its type depends on the coverage. As in construction conventional roof, we begin to lay the roof from the lower end of the rafters. We insulate the roof by laying mineral wool, polystyrene, etc. between the rafters, after which we sew them up with boards. At the final stage, with the help of boards, we create a ceiling and decorate it finishing materials(drywall, GVL).
Insulation of the floor and walls of the attached room
Having finished with the construction of the roof, proceed to internal work. They start with flooring. First of all, we lay the floor beams - they lie on the foundation on top of the waterproofing layer. If you plan to use the premises in the cold season, the floor must be insulated.
To do this, we sew boards to the lags from below. It is better to use a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. As a result, we should get "baths" between the lags, in which we will lay the vapor barrier, and on top of it a heater.
Foam plastic, mineral wool and their analogues act as a heat insulator. On top of them we spread another layer of heat insulator and cover it with plywood or floorboard. The draft floor is ready, in the future it can be ennobled with the help of special coatings.
For wall insulation, the same materials are used and in the same sequence:
- 1 TO outer skin walls with construction stapler we fix the vapor barrier;
- 2. We lay insulation between the racks of the frame. If mineral wool mats (analogues) are used, we mix them relative to each other, overlapping the seams, this excludes possible heat loss through the joints.
- 3. After laying the heat insulator on top of it, we stretch (sew on with a stapler) a vapor barrier;
- 4. We sew up the inner walls with chipboard, plywood, drywall. Great option- lining, it is in itself a decorative material that does not need additional finishing.
We complete the construction of the frame extension with the installation of windows and doors. But the premises are not yet suitable for use - ahead interior decoration and making communications.
