Attachment 6 to 6. Extension to a wooden house: projects, building technologies, choosing the best option. Varieties of attached buildings

The advantage of wooden houses is that a different version of architectural forms and extensions to the house is possible.

You can order any extension to any house according to a standard project.

Types of extensions offered by our company:

Terrace- this is an open area, with a perimeter fence under a common roof with a house. It can be combined with the house, or stand alone. It is convenient to use the terrace as a summer kitchen, for relaxing in the summer. An open terrace can be on one side of the house or around the perimeter.

Veranda- This is a closed building (room). In fact, this is a continuation of the house in the form of an extension under a common roof. The veranda can be timber (from timber), frame-panel, also glazed. The closed veranda is always, in most cases, one-story, sometimes it is attached after construction is completed, when it is necessary to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe house.

Porch- this is a small outdoor extension at the entrance to the house, through which the entrance and exit from the house is carried out. A porch may or may not have a roof. Most often, the porch is completed with railings with railings and several steps. The porch does not need a complex foundation, more often they always use a columnar one.

Prices for an extension to the house and for work

Porch

Porch cost. Price for 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.

Porch 1.0x1.0m. 5.000
Porch 1.0x1.5m. 7.500
Porch 2.0x1.5m 15.000
Porch 2.0x2.0m 20.000

The cost of the porch includes:

column foundation,
railings with balusters
canopy from the roof (such as on the house)

Outdoor terrace

Terrace cost. Price for 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.

Open terrace 4.0x2.0m 30.000
Open terrace 5.0x2.0m 50.000
Open terrace 6.0x2.0m 45.000
Open terrace 6.0x3.0m 65.000

The price of the terrace includes:

columnar foundation
railing with >>><<< (возможны различные варианты ограждения, смотрите ссылку)
roof combined with the house

Possible options :

Decking
metal tile
Ondulin
Roofing material (in case it is a log house or)

>>> or extensions

Veranda closed from timber

The cost of a veranda. Price for 1 sq.m. 8000 rub (timber 100x150).
Price for 1 sq.m. 9.500 rub. (beam 150x150)

Veranda 4.0*2.0m., timber 150*100mm, 64.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m., bar 150*100mm, 96.000
Veranda 4.0*2.0m., bar 150*150mm, 76.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m., bar 150*150mm, 114.000

Prices are indicated for the construction of a veranda from profiled timber.

A complete set of extensions from a bar, you can see on an example

If you don't know what it is, check it out.

Veranda (attachment) frame

A variant of a frame-panel extension with 100 (150.200 mm) insulation is possible, with clapboard or block house finishing.

The cost of a panel insulated veranda is calculated separately and depends on the thickness of the insulation and the type of finish. Price for 1 sq.m. from 9000 rub. (50mm insulation (Isover, Ursa), vapor barrier on both sides (Isospan, Ondutis) lining on both sides)

Briefly: (insulation of walls 50mm, floors - 100mm (double floors, edged board 20mm and finishing floors tongue and groove - 28mm), vapor barrier on both sides, lining on both sides, roofing - ondulin, columnar foundation

Veranda frame (shield) 2.0 * 2.0 m., 46.000
Veranda frame (panel) 3.0 * 2.0 m., 64.000
Veranda frame (panel) 4.0 * 2.0 m., 82.000
Veranda frame (panel) 5.0 * 2.0 m., 98.000

Veranda frame (panel) 6.0 * 2.0 m., 118.000

Veranda frame (panel) 6.0 * 3.0 m., 172.000

Heaters for frame construction

Types of insulation used in construction and panel outbuildings to a country house

Extension projects

Veranda project No. 1
Price: 164.000 rubles

Veranda project No. 2
Price: 178.000 rubles

Semi-open veranda project No. 3
Price: 94.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 4
Price: 108.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 5
Price: 76.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 6
Price: 84.000 rubles

Note: prices are approximate (informational) and do not include the cost of delivery and accommodation of builders at the customer’s site (it is possible to deliver a construction change house, (3 by 2.3 m.), worth 15,000 rubles, remains with the client at the end of construction), a more detailed calculation for request.

Photos of outbuildings (terraces, verandas)

You can take a closer look at this one we built.

This

We will send the material to you by e-mail

An excellent way to increase the area is an extension to a wooden house. Projects of such structures are striking in their diversity and scale. After choosing a suitable project, you need to prepare special materials. An additional extension is useful when creating a kitchen area, or a luxurious terrace. Any room can be built independently, but it is necessary to choose the right type of building.

Extension option

Extension to a wooden house: projects of structures from various materials

Some time after construction work, it may be necessary to increase the usable area. A wonderful way out can be the creation of an extension to a wooden house. Projects of various structures can be seen in the photo.

When choosing the architectural form of the structure, do not forget about creating a single style ensemble. Such a structure requires special documentation and permission. Before construction work, it is necessary to study the technological features and design options.

It is worth considering the following options for extensions:

Simple designs include or a dining area. It is used to protect against bad weather and sunlight. Under a canopy, you can have picnics and receive guests. For its construction does not require a strong foundation. Pillars are installed as supporting supports, to which the frame and intended wall surfaces are attached.

Such structures are often built from logs, timber, foam blocks, and also from bricks. Frame technologies are often used.

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Ask a Question

“The option under a common roof is considered more convenient and profitable. When using superstructures, it is worth calculating the strength of the base.

Related article:

Extension to the house from the frame: features of design and installation

When making an extension to the house from the frame, significant costs will not be required. This is a budget option. The construction is made on a frame basis, which consists of bars or planks made of metal. After the installation of the frame structure, the walls are clad on both sides. In this case, OSB or chipboard plates are used. Heat-insulating material is laid between the plates. It can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

In terms of thermal insulation properties, frame structures are not inferior to more solid stone or brick buildings.

Construction work is carried out in several stages:

Expert point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

Ask a Question

“For a frame structure, a foundation is required. You can use a tape construction with waterproofing.

Extension to the house of foam blocks: photos of interesting projects

You can build an extension to the house from foam blocks.

This design is in demand due to the following features:

The material is available at an affordable price.
To mount the structure, it is not necessary to mount a complex and expensive foundation.
The elements hold heat well. This is possible due to the porous structure and low density index.
Foam blocks are produced in overall dimensions, which affects the speed of construction.

For structures made of foam blocks, a special foundation is required. It can be a tape or monolithic base. Be sure to use high-quality waterproofing. Construction work starts from one selected corner. After installing two rows. This is necessary to ensure better adhesion of the elements.

An extension to a wooden house made of timber: installation nuances and style features

A beautiful and solid extension to a wooden house can be made from a bar. Projects and photos of individual can be found on the Internet.

The material has the following features:

The production of timber is carried out according to factory technologies.
The surface is treated with a special composition that protects against fungi and decay processes.
Naturalness and high environmental friendliness are considered important advantages of the material.

The extension must be connected to an existing building. Usually, the same foundation is made for the structure as for the main building.

For living quarters, a separate foundation and a special wall should be created. The void and the gaps between the two walls are blown with mounting foam. This will prevent damage to the wall of the building when the new extension shrinks.

A more economical option for the foundation is pile. The walls are built from profiled timber. After installing the first row, the surface of the tree is treated with antiseptic compounds. Then lags are mounted on it. Voids and cracks are filled with special heat-insulating material.

Each row is fastened with wooden dowels. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of corner zones. For this, logs with a ledge and a groove are used for a stronger grip.

Note! Reinforcement is used to unite the two foundations.

Before proceeding with the construction, one should take into account some of the nuances of installing an additional structure to the main structure. The length of the new structure should be in harmony with the length of the main building wall. The width of the additional structure can be any.

The extension does not have to be adjacent to the wall where the entrance to the house is located. Access to a spacious veranda or kitchen area can be from the living room. If a bathroom is planned in an additional structure, then the exit can be made from or. A suitable location for the structure is considered to be the front or end part of the house. The choice and amount of material depends on the type of future structure.

Article

In the company "Family House" you can order the construction and decoration of an extension to a wooden building at an affordable cost. We offer a full range of turnkey construction works. Benefits of cooperation with us:

We can perform the entire range of works from the foundation to the electrics (turnkey).
Frame posts are made exclusively from dry planed lumber.
Already in the standard package you get the most reliable and high-quality extension.
Continuous monitoring of work performance and guarantees for work.
Constant discounts and promotions for customers.

Extension to a wooden house: types of buildings and cost of work

To date, there are several of the most popular ways to expand living space:

Timber extension. This building material is superior to brick, concrete and logs in heat and sound insulation. An extension made of timber is much lighter than a brick building, which saves on the foundation.
Brick outbuilding. It requires a strong foundation and a well-thought-out system for joining walls with the main wooden structure.
Frame outbuilding. On a strip foundation, a frame is built from beams or timber, which is sheathed with chipboard. The walls are insulated with thermal insulation boards.

Extension cost

How much does a quality turnkey construction of an extension to a wooden house cost?

The price of construction depends on the following factors:

Type of building: veranda, sauna, living quarters, etc. (You can find out the cost from our managers).
Building area.
Material for construction: timber, chipboard, etc.

You can download the price of the extension. Give us a call or come and visit us, and we will help you to realize any version of your wishes to the house!

The extension can be made in various versions, regardless of the type of extension. You can choose from exterior siding, imitation timber, fiber cement panels, and other materials, as well as interior finishes of your choice.

Some examples of work:

OTHER PHOTOS OF COMPLETED WORKS

Submit your application

Below is a standard attachment

Technical description of a one-story extension to a house made of timber (frame), at a specified price.
Foundation	At the choice of customers, according to the price
strapping row	Beam, edged 150x100mm
Walls	Beam profiled planed natural moisture section 140x90mm. Interventional insulation (Jute) is laid between the timber.
Walls	The frame of the walls is made of dry planed timber 40x100mm/40x150mm/50x50mm. From the outer and inner sides they are sheathed with eurolining.
Roof, truss system	Shed roof, edged board 50x150mm
lags	Edged timber 100x150mm
Ceiling height	2.3m
Assembly of a log house (with walls made of profiled timber)	On wooden dowels
Cutting crowns (with walls made of profiled timber)	In a warm corner
Gables	Frame without insulation, sheathed with eurolining (12.5x88x3000mm, class A-B).
Partitions	None.
Ceiling	Hemmed with eurolining (12.5x88x3000mm, class A-B).
Floor	Draft (edged board 25x150mm). Finishing (floor board planed, tongue-and-groove 28mm, class A-B)
plinth	Coniferous 45mm
Warming	Floor 50/100/150mm. Walls, ceiling - 50/100/150mm. Insulation: mineral wool Isobel, Isover.
Insulation	On both sides of the insulation, under the roof. Vapor barrier is used as insulation
Roof	Galvanized Corrugated Sheet
overhangs	350mm. Hemmed with eurolining, class A-B
Window	PVC, double-leaf, single-chamber double-glazed window 1200x1000mm - 1 pc. Installation of window blocks is carried out on casing bars (with walls made of profiled timber).
Interior doors	Missing
entrance door	Wooden, paneled 800x2000mm - 1 pc.
Antiseptic treatment	Lower crown, subfloor, groove between the crowns (with walls made of profiled timber)
Mounting	Included in the price
Control	Included in the price

An extension to a house is a fairly common phenomenon, especially in suburban villages. Not surprising, because when buying or repairing a country house, its reconstruction may be required. The best way to increase the usable area of the house is to add an additional room.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, sewerage into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Further, along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should cover not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, they make brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, for example, a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

The beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete jumpers between the pillars will have to be made.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a shed option is chosen, which is worth considering.

This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall coverage.
It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool laid between logs fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the "warm floor" systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film laid on a thin thermal reflective substrate, and closed with a decorative coating;
dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.

When the floors are insulated, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

Mineral wool produced in mats is used for internal wall insulation. It is convenient to lay them between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out from the outside, but they do it differently.

Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in one's abilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather difficult work to qualified craftsmen.

Terrace open frame shield

Foundation. separate columnar supports in the amount (6x2-8pcs, 6x3-8pcs, 6x4i5 12pcs), each support has a size of 40x40x40cm The supports are made up of 4 sand-cement blocks each, for the manufacture of supports, blocks of 20x20x40cm in size are used on a sand-cement screed, which are based on separate reinforced slabs sized 50x50x10cm. Ceiling height 2.2m.
Floors - finishing floors - floor planed grooved board 30mm, which are fastened in the sweat through every 3-4 boards. The floor joists are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m. The frame of the pediments from the outside is sewn up with a class “B” clapboard in a quarter, Hanging rafters, truss trusses are made of edged boards 100x50mm and are installed in increments of ~ 0.9-1.0 m. The discharged crate is laid across the rafters with an edged board 18-20mm, which fits into the discharge after ~ 15-20cm. Cornices and end elements are carried out by ~ 0.4 m and are finished with class “B” clapboard. A roof covering is mounted on the crate - ondulin (color brown, red, green). Horizontal corners of the interior are trimmed with plinth
To enter the terrace, temporary wooden steps are installed.

Frame-panel veranda

The frame of the outer walls is made of edged boards 50x150mm, the frame posts are installed in increments of 0.6-1.0m. the lower and upper trim of the frame of the outer walls is made of edged board 50x100mm (if insulation 150mm is ordered, then the board is 50x150mm). The frame of the internal partitions is made of edged timber 50x50mm, the frame posts are installed in increments of 0.6-0.8m, the lower and upper trim of the frame of the partitions is made of edged boards 50x100m. The frame of the walls and partitions is sheathed on both sides with class "B" clapboard (internal sheathing in tongue and groove, external - in a quarter). Insulation of the outer walls and ceiling is carried out with a 50 mm thick insulation, the insulation is laid on the outside with a wind-moisture protective vapor-permeable membrane, on the inside with a vapor barrier membrane.

The floors are double: rough floor - edged board with a thickness of 18-20mm rests on the cranial bars of the floor beams, finishing floors are laid on top of the beams - a floor planed tongue and groove board 30mm, which are fastened in a recess every 3-4 boards. The floor joists are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m. The floors are insulated with a 50mm thick insulation, the insulation is laid on both sides: from the bottom with a wind-moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, from the top with a vapor barrier membrane. Ceiling height 2.4m.

The floor beams are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m and rest on the outer walls. The ceiling of the internal premises is hemmed with a class "B" clapboard from the bottom of the interfloor floor beams. Insulation is laid between the beams - glass-staple fiber 50 mm thick, insulation is laid on both sides with a vapor barrier membrane.

The shape of the roof of the veranda is single-pitched, double-pitched (or hip) with frame gables. The frame of the pediments from the outside is sewn up with a class “B” clapboard in a quarter, Hanging rafters, truss trusses are made of edged boards 100x50mm and are installed in increments of ~ 0.9-1.0 m. The discharged crate is laid across the rafters with an edged board 18-20mm, which fits into the discharge after ~ 15-20cm. Cornices and end elements are carried out by ~ 0.4 m and are finished with class “B” clapboard. A roof covering is mounted on the crate - ondulin (color brown, red, green).

Doors: entrance and interior - paneled DHF (pine): box size 2.1x0.9m (paneled doors are not equipped with handles for opening and locks). wooden windows of single glazing OS GOST are installed, glazed window blocks of incomplete factory readiness **, size 1.2x1.5m - 2 pcs (up to 4 pcs)

Timber veranda

Foundation. Separate columnar supports in quantity (6x2-8pcs, 6x3-8pcs, 6x4i5 12pcs), each support has a size of 40x40x40cm. slabs 50x50x10 cm in size. The outer, inner walls, pediments are made of planed chamber-drying profiled timber 135x145 mm in size, the height of the log house is 18 and 18.5 crowns. The timber is assembled on a strip of linen. The timber is assembled on a birch dowel.

The floors are double: rough floor - edged board with a thickness of 18-20mm rests on the cranial bars of the floor beams, finishing floors are laid on top of the beams - a floor planed tongue and groove board 30mm, which are fastened in a recess every 3-4 boards. The floor joists are made of edged boards with a section of 150x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m. The floors are insulated with a 50mm thick insulation, the insulation is laid on both sides: from the bottom with a wind-moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, from the top with a vapor barrier membrane. In the case of a combination of a veranda and a terrace, a single floor is laid on the terrace.

The floor beams are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m and rest on the outer walls. The ceiling of the interior premises is hemmed with a class "B" clapboard from the bottom of the interfloor floor beams (or from the bottom of the rafters). Insulation is laid between the beams - glass-staple fiber 50 mm thick, insulation is laid on both sides with a vapor barrier membrane.

The shape of the roof of the veranda is single-pitched, double-pitched (or hip) with frame gables. The frame of the pediments from the outside is sewn up with a class “B” clapboard in a quarter (in the case of timber pediments, sheathing is not performed). The discharged crate is laid across the rafters with an edged board 18-20mm, which fits into the discharge after ~ 15-20cm. Cornices and end elements are carried out by ~ 0.4 m and are finished with class “B” clapboard. A roof covering is mounted on the crate - ondulin (color brown, red, green).

doors are installed: entrance and interior - paneled DHF (pine): the size of the box is 2.1x0.9m (paneled doors are not equipped with handles for opening and locks). wooden windows of double glazing OS GOST are installed, glazed window blocks of incomplete factory readiness **, size 1.2x1.2m - 2 pcs (up to 4 pcs)

** window blocks are not antiseptic and not treated with protective compounds, the glass is installed without the use of putty, there are no sealing gaskets on the sashes and porches.
Horizontal and vertical corners of the interior are trimmed with plinth. Galvanized iron sills are installed above the windows. Window and door openings are trimmed on both sides with a platband.
To enter the veranda, temporary wooden steps are installed.