Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. How to do this efficiently and without extra costs, we'll tell you in the article.
Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials
Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be redone or completed, or added to country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific characteristics in connection with its use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing, and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room at the dacha, then this is tantamount to the construction small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. Increased attention requires waterproofing flooring. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.
The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holiday, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is performed in many variants: from the simplest in the form boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.
The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:
- it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
- without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
- will cost less.
The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this respect they compare favorably frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage.
If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable
For the columnar foundation of an extension to a house, concrete, brick, or a combination of both are used. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the input will be required engineering communications to the house. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.
We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, carefully compact it, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted.
We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little bit into each hole. concrete mortar for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We apply ordinary land, mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm, tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.
Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor
So, we stopped at frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing the most reliable means – bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes under the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out the harness required thickness, which also has additional advantages:
- costs much less than beams;
- It’s very easy to connect them together, but with bars it’s more difficult.
We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very eco-friendly option– tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.
The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if there are edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.
Wall installation - two assembly technologies
There are two technologies for assembling frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.
We begin the construction of the frame with the corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
Fastening can be carried out simply and reliably metal corners, installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless steel screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.
Temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until attachment, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. external cladding. If the sheathing is made of a rigid and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make double racks next to them: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
Shed roof - design and technology
The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When attached building It is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.
The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on roofing material we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring occurs when used soft material, we make sparse for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.
Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension
Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are mainly used to insulate buildings. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation material is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.
We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:
- 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips required sizes. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
- 2. Place insulation between the studs. Ensure a tight fit to wooden structures, seams between separate elements We close the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
- 3. We attach a vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
- 4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use drywall perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are irregularities. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.
What remains is internal and exterior finishing, where there is room for the owner’s imagination. A frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.
Sometimes it happens that after construction country house it turns out that its square footage is too small, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, utility room, workshop or shed. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.
How to build an extension to a house with minimal costs, with photos and examples of how to prepare a foundation for it, what material to choose for walls and roofs - further in the article.
General information
If water supply and sewerage are planned for the extension, as in the case of building a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be addressed before pouring the foundation.
If you plan to use the extension not only for summer time, then it is necessary to provide insulation of the floor, for example, using expanded clay bedding. It is also worth thinking about how to heat the room if you are living in winter.
As easy option extensions can be equipped with a veranda - it provides protection from wind and bad weather. It is not possible to live on the veranda in winter, since, as a rule, it is not heated.
The extension must be in harmony with the main building. An economical, warm and quickly erected version of the structure is a wooden frame; after construction, it can be easily finished as the main building. It has many advantages:
- simplicity and speed of construction;
- relative cheapness;
- environmental cleanliness of the extension;
- there is no need to build a capital foundation.
Construction of the foundation
For veranda or residential extension frame type will do columnar foundation, since the weight of the structure is small. If there is a need to provide communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. It will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are significantly less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to weigh down the structure.
Concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured measuring 50x50 cm at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the holes for the posts is covered with a layer of sand, then with crushed stone, and all this is thoroughly compacted.
The pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete gains strength. As waterproofing, bitumen or roofing felt is glued to the pillars.
Bottom trim and floors
In order for the frame extension to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate everything wooden elements antiseptic and fungicidal composition. High-quality waterproofing gives bitumen mastic.
A 150x150 mm beam, preferably made of larch, is used as the bottom trim. Roofing material must be placed under it to isolate it from the foundation. Lay the first row strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.
The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, using pins, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50x150 mm boards instead of timber, and to achieve structural integrity, connect them with self-tapping screws.
The lower harness is attached to the beds on which the logs are laid. Insulation, such as polystyrene, is placed between the joists and subfloors are laid. Finish floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.
Walls
Walls are made in two ways - either the structure is assembled on the ground and then erected, or the frame is gradually assembled on site. The first option requires several people, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.
The construction process begins with corner posts; it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, timber with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.
Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional posts and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper harness of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.
Roof and insulation of the extension
The easiest way to equip a roof is with a regular pitched roof. It should be made as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is on the side. The roof of the extension must extend under the main roof.
All elements - rafters, beams, sheathing must be treated with an antiseptic. The roof is laid with an overlap and, depending on its type, is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or slate nails.
Polystyrene foam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then insulating material is placed between the frame posts, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or plasterboard to the studs, and begin finishing.
Photos of extensions to the house
Proper construction of extensions for various purposes can not only expand the residential part of the house, but also improve it appearance and protect against wear. The construction of a veranda adjacent to the house, regardless of the type of structure, requires careful development of the project, with the determination of materials and construction technology.
Proper execution and approval project documentation in government agencies will not only insure you against problems with the law, but will also help you draw up a plan and estimate for the structure.
Design
A typical veranda is a roofed frame structure built on a strip or column foundation, with glass or half glass walls. The statement that the veranda should be built from the same materials as the main building, with the emergence of new styles and fashion trends in architecture, has lost its relevance.
The photos below show ready-made solutions for verandas attached to the house, with different principles compatibility. In some cases, the new extension is made of the same materials and is completely combined with the house; in others, the new addition is combined with the preservation of common elements - roof, beams, etc.
There are also projects in which original design The extension introduces a new architectural touch, updating the exterior.
When choosing materials and construction technologies, you should also take into account the parameters of proper ventilation, moisture resistance and thermal insulation. With full glazing, it is necessary to provide opening segments for ventilation.
If you are building an open veranda, or, as it is also called, a summer terrace, you need to take care of the frost-resistant lining and the slope of the floor towards the site.
Designs with removable frames are optimal for year-round use. Installing large sliding doors will also allow the building to be used in a dual-mode version.
IN standard project The area of the veranda is rectangular and ranges from 10 to 15 sq.m. For smaller areas it will be too cramped; for larger ones, additional reinforcement for the roof will be required. Polygonal and semicircular foundations are also possible.
According to its location, the veranda can be corner, end or facade. An original solution can be considered the construction of a terrace along the entire perimeter of the house, which can have glazed, open and closed areas for various purposes: they can accommodate a hallway, a recreation area, and a large storage room.
Foundation
The foundation of terraces and verandas attached to the house must fit tightly to the main building, but at the same time have independent supports.
A strip foundation is suitable for large and heavy structures; in all other cases, a columnar foundation can be erected. When pouring concrete, you need to leave a gap of 3-4 cm with the main wall, which will subsequently be filled with waterproofing foam.
At the first stage of preparation for construction, the soil is cleaned and compacted. Then, for the pillars, corner holes are dug along the depth of the house foundation (about 1 m on average), a cushion is made of crushed stone, gravel and sand, onto which concrete is poured.
After setting, asbestos or asbestos supports are inserted metal pipes. Can also be used concrete pillars or brick. The same method is used to lay high piles for buildings adjacent to the second floor level.
Depending on the area and weight of the terrace, intermediate posts may be needed, installed every half meter.
For a strip foundation, a 30-50 cm trench is dug, the formwork is placed 15-20 cm higher. Metal reinforcement bars or reinforcement mesh. Concrete is poured onto a layer of crushed stone and sand.
Wood frame
The frame is assembled from beams or logs with a width of at least 12 cm, which are covered with a waterproofing layer. For the strength of horizontal knitting, experts recommend using fastenings in the foot, the surface of the connection will be at an angle. Vertical racks secured with diagonal interceptions.
At the final stage, the wooden frame is covered with rafters for the roof. For cladding you can use plywood panels, chipboards etc.
Construction wooden veranda– the best budget solution at prices for materials, but when choosing this type of construction you need professional approach and knowledge of the nuances of construction from wooden beams.
Other materials for verandas
The structure made of foam blocks is erected on a strip foundation. This type of masonry is easy to do yourself. The laying is carried out using a special glue, with the seams bandaged for strength.
When finishing, an internal and external waterproofing layer, plasterboard finishing, wooden shields, moisture-resistant wallpaper and paints. The outer surface can be lined with ventilated facades.
The construction of the structure is made of polycarbonate, a modern and attractive option. This material goes well in buildings with wooden and brick frames.
For a building that consists entirely of bicarbonate panels, you do not need a foundation. The earth can simply be compacted and covered with paving slabs.
The structure is created using aluminum profiles, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of ventilation and water drainage. Polycarbonate panels and frames various types can be tailored to specific needs for lighting and thermal insulation.
Before you attach a veranda to the house, you need to decide on the functions that it will perform. In addition to the necessary drainage and ventilation systems in any case, proper connection to the permanent structure and roof structure, the schedule for using this part of the house is important.
Design and construction summer verandas differs from the requirements for premises with year-round operation. It is also important to note that any extension will require the same care and updating as permanent buildings.
Photo of the veranda attached to the house
Planning a future extension to the house requires enough thorough preparation and at least an approximate calculation of the parameters of the foundation, walls, roof. It will be necessary to resolve issues of material selection and, of course, you need to understand the issue of how to legalize an extension to the house. Without legal registration of a new house-building plan, the extension will be considered a self-construction and, according to all laws, is subject to demolition.
Where to start planning an extension
Any option for an extension to a house is based on four main documents, on which the future fate of the building will depend:
- Permits for the construction of a building;
- Project of a new building with detailed details of the implementation of the most important nodes, for example, a diagram of the connection to the main building or the foundation;
- A diagram of the location of the extension on the site plan, with marked distances between individual buildings;
- Construction estimate.
Often, the construction of an extension to a house is just a small cosmetic expansion of an existing veranda, porch area or open terrace. Both elements already appear in the original design of a private house, so its owners believe that nothing needs to be changed in the documents. The external dimensions of a house with an attached room do not change, the distances between objects according to sanitary and fire safety standards remain the same, so there is no point in fiddling with bureaucratic procedures for re-registration of a capital structure.
Similar logic can still be understood if we are talking about suburban panel house, wooden dacha or any other structure erected without a foundation or falling under the definition of temporary. If we are talking about the construction of capital-type structures, the arrangement of an extension always entails certain consequences.
For your information! Refusal to register, other than a fine or forced dismantling of a building, is primarily an investment “in the air” with the risk of losing everything.
A professionally designed and built extension to the house, photo, can increase the capitalization of the property from 30 to 60%. The situation is quite common for modern brick buildings built on the slope of a hill or mountain. Instead of a veranda, an extension is being built on stilts brick house, which allows you to increase living space by 40-50%.
Properly executed documents will allow, for example, to increase the amount of collateral in the bank or simply sell the building at its real price. Whereas an illegal extension to the house will only create problems.
Registration of an extension, let's look into the details
In order to correctly assess the possible amount of bureaucratic red tape, it is necessary to draw up the following description in as much detail as possible:
- Decide on the purpose of the future building, its size and location relative to the house;
- Make sketches, you can even draw them by hand, but with obligatory observance of generally accepted rules for drawing up documents, it is best to use already finished projects extensions to the house;
- Include in a separate document the details for the construction of the foundation or base, walls and roof of the extension.
All of the above will be required in order to correctly classify buildings. Any options for an extension to the house, photos are classified either as permanent buildings or non-permanent buildings.
The paperwork scheme depends on how the city inventory bureau employees classify the building.
Papers for non-permanent buildings
The question of correct classification is not as obvious as it might seem at first glance. Non-permanent extensions include:
- Stairs and porches at the new entrance to the house;
- Canopies, terraces, verandas, balconies;
- Auxiliary and temporary extensions, if they do not affect communications or supporting structures of a permanent structure.
Some experts and some lawyers define a non-permanent extension as a structure without a foundation, but it would be wrong to be guided by such a rule in all situations since there are a huge number of by-laws and clarifications to the norms of the Town Planning Code, plus numerous court decisions that contain provisions that contradict each other. Therefore, before legalizing an extension to a private house, it will be useful to get acquainted with at least some of the regulatory documents.
To design such an extension to the house, do the following:
- Order a drawing for the extension and make a technically competent description of the design;
- Write an application to the Bureau of Technical Inventory to make changes to the passport of a capital building, that is, a house with an extension;
- Wait for the inspection of the erected structure of the extension to the house;
- Document changes to the house design.
As a rule, there are no problems with registering a non-permanent extension to a house, but even if an official refusal is received, registration can be done by court decision.
Design of a permanent extension
Most brick, stone or metal frame extensions are considered permanent by law. One of the arguments used by experts to justify their decision is the presence of a foundation in any form. Therefore, when planning a full-fledged extension to the house, owners show miracles of ingenuity, which is what it takes to erect a structure with a cantilever or balcony type of attachment to the walls of the main house.
According to the law, a major extension will require a building permit from the regional department of architecture and capital construction.
Documents to be submitted:
- Application with a photocopy of the passport;
- Registration certificate for the house and attached site plan;
- Project for a future extension with a short explanatory note.
Upon a positive decision, the owner is issued a written permit to erect the structure, subject to the design and registration of the structure in the state register.
After the extension to the house is completed, you will need to go through all the bureaucratic procedures at the BTI, where they may be forced to do an additional examination to determine the compliance of individual components with SNiP and GOST standards. After entering the technical documentation for the house, the changes are registered in the state register of capital construction and real estate.
Of course, you can build a building without all this bureaucracy, but as practice shows, it is still cheaper to register the attached premises.
How to plan a house extension
The second headache of any process of building an extension is the inadequacy of the frame of the main house building. Only in 1 out of 100 cases, when drawing up a house project, does the future owner have the wisdom to foresee the possibility of expanding the main structure of the building through one or two extensions. The most common problems are imperfect foundation systems or complaints from neighbors.
What to do with the foundation
The simplest situation is when a full two-meter strip foundation is laid under the main building. In this case, you can use a shallow type of strip foundation for the attached room without much concern. If the height of the extension is higher than one floor, then the foundation will have to be deepened to the freezing level; the upper reinforced belt will have to be tied to the slab interfloor covering main building.
The most reliable and durable extension to a house is one made on the same foundation as the brick frame of the house. For example, you can use the section of the foundation occupied open veranda. To reduce the pressure on the corner sector of the foundation, the extension box is partially supported on the foundation of the veranda, and most of the weight is transferred to piles driven at a distance of at least 60 cm from the blind area line.
If the house is located on a shallow or pile foundation, then the simplest solution to the problem would be to use slab foundation. The foundation slab for the building is poured over an area 2 times larger than the dimensions of the building itself. At first glance it looks wasteful, but in fact it is just a way to reduce the impact on the foundation of the house and make a foundation for the future. In all other cases, experts recommend erecting the building on a pile foundation without rigid attachment to the supporting structures of the house.
Wall and roof materials
Three types of materials are most often used to construct an extension box:
- Gas silicate blocks or foam concrete on a strip foundation;
- Wooden or metal frame structures on a pile foundation;
- Void ceramic brick on a slab foundation.
In principle, you can build an extension from any material, even from rubble or concrete blocks, but in practice they try to make the attached room as light as possible so as not to break the foundation, so even brick buildings today it is already a rarity.
Most often, the box is built from foam concrete blocks; they are lightweight, relatively easy to lay walls and cost less than brick. Thanks to excellent heat and soundproofing characteristics the structure can be made with huge windows or even an entire wall of glass.
The second most popular is frame system. Using profiled pipe and steel profile allows you to assemble an openwork glass extension on two floors. The weight of such a design will be only slightly greater wooden frame, so a particularly powerful foundation for the building is not required. The only condition for the construction of a metal-frame extension will be correct placement structures relative to the foundation of the house. The best option is internal corner facade, ensuring maximum rigidity of the foundation and stability of the walls.
Traditionally, they prefer to install an attached room to a house on the corner of the main building. This part of the foundation is brick or block house has the highest rigidity and stability, which in turn has a beneficial effect on the attached box itself.
If the additional room is built from wood concrete or aerated concrete, and the place for the foundation is in the center of the main building, in this case it is necessary to take measures to increase the stability of the attached box by all available means.
As such they may be additional wall made of brick or a rebuilt common roof.
The exception is frame buildings made of timber, as a rule, a box made of boards and timber has sufficient rigidity and relatively light weight, so it can be attached anywhere in the house, without regard to the foundation.
Conclusion
Choosing a plan or project small room must be taken into account possible problems from the neighbors. Oddly enough, according to statistics greatest number Court decisions on the forced demolition of extensions in the private sector are based on complaints and claims against neighboring houses. Therefore, it is not enough to plan the foundation and begin construction; it is also necessary to provide the building with permits in case of a possible conflict.
Very often people have to make an extension to their house. The reason may be the need to increase space, but simple redevelopment does not solve this problem, and you have to expand. Or the house was originally designed inconveniently - for example, with the “box” that was previously adopted by architects, which today is completely out of date, because it is in fashion now complex projects. Perhaps the early construction did not take into account the “wind rose”, so it was necessary to make an additional protective structure in the form of a garage, veranda or workshop.
In general, there are many reasons why people decide to interfere with the integrity of their home. At the same time, very often it is necessary to remodel wooden housing - especially if it is an old housing stock. Let's look at how an extension is made to wooden house and how realistic it is to build it with your own hands.
Not an addition, but a full-fledged part!
It is important to understand that an extension is not at all an add-on to the main building, as the name might suggest. It is an equally important element of the entire structure. Structurally connected with it and subsequently influencing the entire viability of the house. If this is not taken into account, problems with the stability of the entire house may arise in the future. Not to mention the fact that the appearance of the house may be ruined. Therefore, do not try to save money on good foundation, a well-thought-out project - these flaws will come out after an increase in the cost of maintaining the house, an increase in heat loss and many other surprises. And, of course, you need to coordinate construction projects and obtain all the necessary permits.
The foundation is the basis in every sense
No matter what kind of extension construction you start, you cannot do without a foundation. Since the extension is a structurally independent structure, it is also advisable to carry out its construction in two steps to make the foundation, and after a year, when it has settled down and shrinks, continue the construction of everything else. This will help to avoid deformation changes in the structure and, therefore, prevent the occurrence of cracks and other defects.
The foundation is always built taking into account the terrain, soil, and the weight of the house and extension. It may be U-shaped adjacent to the house, or it may not be connected to it at all (this also happens when they decide to build a fourth wall in an extension).
Regarding wooden house, then the foundation of the extension requires special attention. Depending on the choice of material for the extension and on the method of docking it to the house, the foundation base can be either tied to the house with reinforcement or separated from it expansion joints- so that parts of the house different in materials sit independently and do not lead to the corners of the house.
Frame-based extension
The frame extension fits organically into the design of the house
The construction of an extension to a wooden house can be started from any wall material. However, preferable to others in terms of price-quality ratio would be an extension frame technology. It will not require a complex foundation and heavy walls. At the same time, the shrinkage of such a structure is minimal; finishing can be done quickly and construction can be completed. At the same time, it is quite possible to do such work with your own hands. By the way, the frame construction method involves more thin walls extensions without reducing thermal conductivity, so the building is smaller, and the building itself living area- more.
The foundation with such material is sufficient without deepening; it is not difficult to make it with your own hands, for example, strip or tiled. Lays on top of it waterproofing material- roofing felt.
The important point is compliance general style main building. After all, if old house built from timber or logs, then making and installing an extension from a completely identical material will not be easy both from a technical and material point of view. But to sheathe frame extension with the material that imitates the walls of a house, perhaps. In this case, it will be possible to repeat the cuts, the ends, and other structural elements.
To attach an extension to a wooden house, racks-bars are attached to the walls of the house; wall cladding elements will subsequently be nailed to them. The frame itself can be made with your own hands according to the diagram below.
Stages of work:
- Lay the perimeter of the frame with a beam of at least 15 cm. Use the same beam or board to position the corner posts using a level.
- Make the top trim from edged boards. Secure the boards to top harness self-tapping screws.
- Insulate the walls with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
- Lay hydro- and vapor barriers, also securing them with self-tapping screws.
- Sew up the insulation OSB boards, plywood, plasterboard, etc.
Extension using frame-timber technology
An extension to a house made of timber can be used as part of the house
In general these are all options frame method. IN in this case the frame is also a load-bearing part, and the cladding is made of glued or profiled timber of small cross-section. The timber simultaneously acts as an external facing material.
At the same time, if everything is done correctly, adding an extension to a wooden house with your own hands will turn out no worse than in the picture about wooden architecture.
The new part may shrink during the first six months, and to prevent distortion from occurring, it is attached to the old building either with metal brackets or special metal corners. Both are not tightly attached to allow the extension to “play” a little as the timber shrinks.
The connection of two foundations occurs best when both foundations are made using the same method - if using a strip method, then they are fastened with reinforcement. If everything is connected correctly, the extension will be securely attached to the main building, despite the movement of the ground.
Extension made of foam concrete
Foam blocks during construction allow the developer to take advantage of additional architectural opportunities
This material has advantages - it is light, warm, and easy to build with. But at the same time, foam concrete is fragile and subject to deformation. Cladding works it cannot be postponed until the next season, so as not to burst the seams, and the quality of the blocks often causes criticism.
Another point is that the heterogeneity of the materials of the extension and the house can lead to displacement from the effects of weather and other factors. Therefore, if you intend to build from foam concrete, then the best option will not connect them, but put a layer between them mineral wool, which is then sewn up with any suitable material.
The same method should be followed with a brick extension. By the way, brick, as well as foam blocks during construction, allow the developer to take advantage of additional architectural opportunities.
Using metal frames for extensions
Metal frames are suitable for the construction of low-rise private housing
U modern manufacturers Recently a new proposal has appeared - strong and durable metal frames. They are applicable for the construction of low-rise private housing or an extension is needed.
However, compared to frame method this method is more expensive and more difficult. Therefore, private developers are still increasingly resorting to reliable wooden frames.
