How to make wooden entrance doors with your own hands. Do-it-yourself wooden door manufacturing technology Wooden door design

When starting an apartment renovation, you want to not only update the wallpaper on the walls, but also completely change the interior of the rooms. Therefore, there is often a desire to change all the doors that are in the house. And put something unusual, comfortable and beautiful. Many people go to the store and buy ready doors, but the most interesting thing is to make them yourself. Anyone can make their own home handyman, to do this you need to decide on their design, choose the material and purchase the necessary tools.

How to correctly calculate doors

All self-production work begins with calculations. First you need to measure the doorway into which the doors will be installed. Opening measurements are carried out sequentially:

There are standard sizes door leaves: width 60, 70, 80, 90 cm and height up to 2 m.

But you can make your own door custom size, if the opening or opening method allows it: sliding or barn doors do not depend on the size of the opening, since they are located behind it.

Sliding doors are easy to use: they do not take up space when opened

When calculating the box, you need to decide whether to make a threshold or not. Typically, thresholds are installed in the bathroom and kitchen, but it all depends on the preferences of the owner. The design of the door is also determined in advance - on one or both sides - the number of trims depends on this, if the door is designed with inserts.

The more inserts made of glass or other materials in the door, the more platbands will be required to secure them

Additionally taken into account required quantity handles, hinges or other fasteners based on the opening design, as well as locking and fixing devices, if necessary.

Required Tools

To make your own doors you will need the following tools:

If there is a threshold, then the leaf is made on all sides 2–3 mm smaller than the door frame, and if there is no threshold, a gap of 5–10 mm is left at the bottom so as not to damage the floor covering when opening the doors.

Material selection

It is important to decide: what to make the door from and what material to use for the exterior decoration.

The basis for an interior door can be the following materials:

natural wood - it is easy to work with, the doors are strong, beautiful and durable. Disadvantages: heavy doors, wood absorbs moisture. Often only the frame is made of wood, and other materials are used for cladding;
MDF board - the door can consist entirely of boards, but if it is sheathed along the frame, then corrugated cardboard or other filler is placed inside. This is a cheaper material and is not afraid of moisture;
Chipboard - consists of compressed chips glued with synthetic resins;
plastic, glass, aluminum or stainless steel are usually used in production, but at home it is difficult to make a door out of them.

Gallery: doors made of different materials

Double glass doors are made from tempered glass and decorated with designs. Two halves of a double leaf plastic door with colored glass can be decorated in different ways if one of them is rarely used A barn door made of matte plastic is perfect for a bathroom or dressing room The sliding door made of aluminum frame and colored plastic is beautiful, light and easy to use Ordinary paneled doors can be made with a glass insert and highlighted in a bright color in the interior An arched door with decorative trim will become an independent decoration of a large room A solid wooden door with inserts made of thin MDF sheets will harmoniously fit into a classic-style room

Most often, do-it-yourself interior doors are made from wood, so you need to determine which wood is best to choose. Let's look at different breeds:

pine - easy to process, but dries out over time; is characterized by low cost;
alder is a more porous and soft wood, easy to process, but not resistant to rotting;
birch is a dense and viscous wood with a beautiful structure, but is short-lived;
oak - durable and resistant to mechanical damage, but is difficult to work with, as it cracks along the fibers;
beech is durable, but is afraid of changes in temperature and humidity;
larch - with a beautiful structure, easy to process, durable;
walnut - with a uniform structure, strong and durable;
maple - resistant to moisture, easy to process and polish.

The following materials are used for decorative cladding of the door leaf and frame:

natural veneer - thinly cut sheets or strips of wood that are glued to any base. Veneer allows you to imitate solid wood;
Natural veneer has a textured surface, is easily glued to wood and can be restored
eco-veneer - compressed products consisting of glued wood fibers. Eco-veneer is similar to natural veneer, but costs less;
laminate is a film made from several layers of paper. High-quality laminate looks beautiful and lasts a long time, while low-quality laminate peels off over time;
Vinyl laminate is wear-resistant, suitable for any surface, but fades in direct sunlight
plastic - sheets of synthetic polymers. Plastic is moisture resistant and is not afraid of temperature changes, but when heated strongly it releases harmful substances;
paint - acrylic, alkyd, nitro paint;
varnish - allows you to preserve the structure of the wood from moisture.

The choice of materials depends on the preferences of the owners and the design of the doors.

Video: characteristics of doors made of different materials

How to make a door with your own hands

Usually done with your own hands swing doors, so let’s look at the manufacturing sequence using their example. To make your own interior door you will need:

board: 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide, no more than 6 m;
Laminated chipboard: will be used for insertion inside the door leaf. Instead, you can take, for example, glass;
self-tapping screws (or wooden confirmation pins), glue, varnish or paint.

The manufacturing technology of such a door is simple. The work is carried out in several stages:

Preparing the board. According to the exact dimensions, the board is cut into 4 parts: the top, bottom and sides of the door leaf. Sanding disc grinders are polished wide surfaces. The ends need not be processed.
The boards are first cut to size and then sanded
Milling. Manual router The ends of the boards are rounded. A groove is made at one of the ends for installing chipboard. The groove must correspond to the thickness of this sheet. It is usually made 16 mm wide and 15–20 mm deep.
A hand router is used for processing the ends of boards and cutting grooves
End trimming. Disk or hand saw The ends of the boards are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. At the extreme points of the racks, the length should be equal to the height of the door leaf, and at the extreme points of the upper and lower boards - its width.
It is necessary to cut the boards at an angle of 45 degrees so that the parts of the door leaf fit together smoothly, without gaps
Cut out the chipboard. Calculation of sheet width: subtract the width of two racks from the width of the door leaf and add the depth of two grooves. The length of the sheet is calculated similarly. For a door 80x200 cm it turns out - width: 800–100x2+20x2=640 mm, length: 2000–150x2+2x20=1740 mm.
You can cut laminated chipboard yourself or order a ready-made sheet according to your dimensions
Pre-assembly. Knocking rubber mallet, on laminated chipboard sheet carefully put the boards on. The tightness of the fastenings is checked. Then the boards are removed, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled into them in the corners. But you can also attach such a door to wooden confirmation pins.
Insertion of locks, latches and awnings. It is better to place them on a disassembled door so as not to accidentally damage the insert grooves by pressing.
It is better to attach the hinges, handle and lock to the door in a disassembled state, so as not to damage the insert
Painting and assembly. After painting and varnishing the boards, the door leaf is reassembled and secured. The boards are fixed with grooves on the chipboard. If wooden pins are used instead of screws, they are lubricated with glue and inserted into the prepared holes.

An important step is decorating the door. If you choose veneer or laminate instead of painting, it is better to entrust this process to specialists.

Video: simple do-it-yourself side door

DIY steam room door

For the steam room, you can make a door from solid wood yourself. The work is performed in the following sequence:

Cut out the boards. You will need tongue and groove boards and timber 30 mm thick. To calculate the number of boards, you need to know their sizes and the size of the door leaf. If the door is 2 m high, then the boards are cut to length: 2000–2x30 = 1940 mm.
Assembling boards. The boards are laid out in a row, leveled and glued together with furniture glue. They are beaten tightly with a mallet and compressed with clamps until the glue dries.
The boards are connected using grooves, which are coated with glue.
Preparation and fixation of timber. Along the perimeter of the canvas, a timber sawn into two long and two short pieces is attached to self-tapping screws.
Door reinforcement. To strengthen the structure, two transverse strips are installed on top of the boards.
To strengthen the door leaf, transverse strips are installed: they are attached with screws or glue
Accessories. Hinges and handles are attached. Wooden handles are selected for the steam room, since metal handles get very hot.
Processing. Used transparent compositions deep impregnation, which reliably protect the wood and do not emit harmful substances.
It is dangerous to use varnish or paint to cover steam room doors.

The main component of a sliding door is a sliding mechanism; it can be purchased at any hardware store. You will also need special fittings for sliding doors. The design consists of an upper guide or is complemented by a lower one.

Sliding doors allow you to save free space

The length of the guide strip must be twice the width of the door panel, otherwise the door will not open completely.

The main thing for a sliding door is the light weight of the door leaf if it is attached only to the top rail.

Manufacturing process:

Creating a door leaf. It is made of solid wood with inserts, but in a lightweight version so that the weight of the door does not interfere with the operation of the moving mechanism.
Creating a groove for the guide. A groove is made at the bottom end of the door for the bottom guide. It is cut through the center of the end of the door leaf to a depth of 3 mm.
Rollers are screwed to the upper end of the canvas.
The lower lock prevents the door from jumping out of the guide
Installation of fittings. The lock is cut in and handles are installed.
Fastening the guide profile. To the wall above doorway The guide is mounted horizontally. On one side it should protrude by 5 cm, and on the other - by the width of the canvas.
The upper guide is installed horizontally: accuracy is checked with a building level
Attachment of the stop. A lower guide or stop is attached to the floor along which the door will slide.
Door installation. The door rollers are inserted into the upper guide and closed with stops, and the door is placed on the lower stop with a cut groove.

The design of a pencil door is similar to a sliding or sliding option. Its difference is that the door leaf is hidden in the wall.

If the wall is non-load-bearing, then it is dismantled, and in this place a volumetric pencil case is made in which the door leaf is hidden.

The door leaf is hidden in the wall - this is convenient in small apartments

Stages of creating a cabinet door:

Creating a door leaf. You can make it yourself or purchase a ready-made one.
Construction of a false wall from plasterboard. First, a frame is created from metal profiles, leaving space inside for the door. The niche should be 20 mm wider than the door leaf so that the door does not scratch and moves freely.
The false wall frame is assembled from metal profiles or from wooden beams
Fixing the guide. The upper guide is mounted inside the false wall, and the door leaf is hung on it.
Adjusting the door travel. The free movement of the door leaf is regulated: it should not touch the frame and reach the floor.
Frame covering. After adjusting the door, the frame of the pencil case is covered on both sides with plasterboard, chipboard, OSB, etc.
Sheathing of the frame is carried out only after installation and adjustment of the movement of the door leaf

Double door

The design of a double-leaf door is no different from a single-leaf door. Only its overall size is larger, and the lock connects the doors to each other.

These are two canvases installed in a common door frame. Double doors also open in different ways: as swing doors, sliding doors, swing doors or accordion doors.

A double-leaf accordion door made of plastic is convenient for the kitchen: it is rarely used, so it will last a long time

The width of a double door is usually in the range of 130–190 cm, this allows you to create wide openings.

The double door fits perfectly into a large hall and is convenient for receiving guests.

Features and sequence of installation of a double-leaf door:

Selection of sashes - wood, plastic, glass, metal and other materials are used for this design. They can be purchased ready-made or made yourself. The main condition is to determine the size of the door frame and divide it in half (or into 4 parts if the door is folding).
A double-leaf folding door made of four panels will perfectly complement the interior in a rustic style.
If the door has a lock - in classic style execution, a decorative element is installed on it, bridging the gap between the canvases.
Sliding doors are made without a lock, so they do not need additional element, closing the central gap
Installation - mounting the door frame and hanging the leaves is no different from a single-leaf design. But it is advisable to install a double door with a partner.
Installation of fittings - insertion of locks and handles is carried out after hanging and adjusting the doors.

barn door

Barn doors help to decorate a room with an antique look and are easy to use.

The barn door is easy to install, takes up little space and is easy to operate.

They got their name due to the fact that similar sliding structures were previously used on barns and grain cars. Modern door leaves are made in different styles.

A barn double-leaf door made of wood in a classic style is suitable even for small apartments

Such doors are mounted on both sliding mechanisms, and on rails or butterflies.

Fastenings for a barn door are made in different stylistic designs so that you can choose them to suit your interior style

A barn door is beautiful in any design.

The transparent double barn door looks weightless and fills the apartment with light.

Sliding barn doors have gained popularity due to the following advantages:

take care of the place: the canvas moves to the side along the wall;
beautiful: often the barn door is the main element of the interior;
fashionable: moving doors are installed in modern homes;
wide possibilities: barn fastenings can withstand heavy weight; you can expand the doorway, increasing the open space; or separate the closet from the room with doors. And in studio apartments, such a door will also serve as a mobile partition.

Barn doors with translucent panels are good to use as closet doors or a built-in dressing room

The easiest way to make a barn door with your own hands is from solid wood. The manufacturing process will be the same as that of assembling a steam room door. But the difference is that room door can be coated with varnish or paint.

The barn door can be painted to match the color of the walls, and it will create a calm atmosphere in the home.

Video: barn mechanisms

The rotary door combines a swing and sliding design.

It opens in one direction or the other. Due to the fact that after opening it also moves away from the center, the usable area of the room is saved.

The rotary door is convenient in the layout of small apartments and walk-through adjacent rooms

For a rotary door, you can make the door leaf yourself or buy a ready-made one. Since there is a complex opening mechanism, you will have to purchase it in a store; you won’t be able to do it yourself.

The rotary door combines a sliding and swing structure, which allows you to open it and move it towards the door frame

Disadvantages of revolving doors: high cost, the opening mechanism does not withstand heavy weight. Therefore, the door is used for beauty and does not have a protective function.

The large rotary door is made of plastic so that the opening mechanism does not deform under weight

The revolving door is installed by professionals, but you can install it yourself if you follow the process recommendations. Roto-doors are usually purchased during a major renovation, since they require a doorway to be formed. When installing a revolving door, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Accuracy of measurements. The structure between the box and the canvas should have a gap of no more than 5 mm, so it is important to take the measurements correctly.
Correct installation. During installation of the door frame, the level of verticality and horizontality must be strictly observed, otherwise the mechanism will jam and the door will not move well.
Partition. Its thickness along the entire length must be the same, otherwise the operation of the door will be impaired.
Adjustment. Important process: performed in all directions of movement of the door leaf. Once adjusted, it should move easily and close tightly.

If you decide to install a rotary door yourself, you must follow the technology for performing the work, but it is better to entrust the assembly of the rotating mechanism to specialists.

Video: installation of the roto-mechanism (part 1)

Video: installation of the roto-mechanism (part 2)

Making paneled doors is a complex task that requires special skills. But simpler doors can easily be made with your own hands by a person who knows how to hold a hammer and a saw in his hands. It’s unlikely that a work of art will work out, but a good quality product will.

When making doors yourself, the first thing you do is measure the doorway: you need to make a door frame. In most cases, it looks like the letter “P”: install two vertical racks and one horizontal at the top - the lintel or crossbar.

The strip, which is attached below, is rarely used today, but there are special-purpose rooms in which a threshold is required. For example, in the steam room of a Russian bath. A threshold is needed here to prevent steam from escaping.

Having previously assembled the door frame on the floor, you can decide on the dimensions of the future door: they should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the frame you made. After you make the door leaf, cut in the hinges. Doors made of wood are heavy, and it is very difficult to carry them and try on the hinges. Therefore, it is more convenient to do everything on the floor. Mark the fastenings for the hinges, make a recess to the required depth, install them on the jamb and on the door leaf.

Then you install the box in the opening, secure it, and only then hang the doors. Here's how the process works in general terms. Now let’s learn more about how to make doors with your own hands.

Making a door frame

According to the rules, the door frame pillars must be hidden in the floor and rest on the joists. But today, wooden floors are not made everywhere in our country, and therefore more often they are simply rested on the finished floor. But by the time the door is installed, the floor must be ready, only the baseboards have not been nailed down.

We assume that the floor and doorway are ready. Decide what type of box you will install: “U”-shaped or with a lower jumper. Draw a diagram, measure the opening, and plot the measurement results on the image.

For brick, concrete or other similar walls, the dimensions of the box should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening: a gap is needed for mounting elements and foam. For walls made of timber or logs, they generally make a frame or casing - bars installed around the perimeter with a small gap, which will compensate for the shrinkage of the building, and at the same time fasten the logs or beams that have become loose after cutting out the opening. This is of course additional materials and work, but this is the only way to guarantee that the doors will not jam.

As a result of measurements, the height of the two side bars - racks - may differ slightly. It's not scary. It is important that they are vertical, and the horizontal top bar - the lintel - is strictly horizontal.

The door frame is made from one board with a molded groove or a composite one - from several boards glued together. The width of the groove should match the thickness of the door leaf or be a couple of millimeters larger.

If you have a woodworking machine on your farm, you do everything yourself. No - you buy it in a carpentry shop, hardware store, etc. You will need two strips for the side posts and one or two (depending on the type of box) for the horizontal jumpers.

The bars from which the jambs are made can be simple, or they can have a shaped (profile) front part. You can install a rubber or silicone seal at the end of the protrusion against which the door leaf rests. To do this, make a shallow cut into it using a special roller (or a regular screwdriver) and install an elastic band. These seals are much more effective and durable than foam rubber ones, there are different colors and forms, sold in hardware stores.

The planks are polished on three sides to perfection. The fourth will be leaning against the wall; it does not need to be processed.

Assembly order

Saw off the top jumper to the required width. Now you need to make grooves in it into which the racks will fit. To do this, you need to remove the protrusion to the width of the block. It sounds confusing, but if you look at the photo, everything will become clearer.

Measure the width of the counter, mark this distance on the ceiling, and draw a straight line. Make a cut to the depth of the tenon (with a hand saw). Now use chisels to remove excess. Having leveled sandpaper, make two holes for the screws: this is how they will be fastened to the racks.

Do the same on the other side. Just don’t start sawing without measuring the second post: the joinery may differ by a couple of millimeters, and this can lead to the appearance of cracks. First you measure, then you mark, and only then you cut and work with a chisel.

If the structure has a threshold, it is processed in exactly the same way.

Now all that remains is to adjust the height of the side strips. From total height doorway, subtract the thickness of the transverse strips (upper, and, if any, lower) and the distance for the mounting foam (1-2 cm). Get the height of the racks. You saw them off and assemble the whole structure together. The door frame was assembled with your own hands. Let's start making the door leaf.

Wooden doors to a bathhouse or country house

Doors made of wood can have a complex design. Beginners should not immediately take on such work: they need to learn from simple things. Doors to a bathhouse, a summer house, etc. are ideal in this regard. They rarely come complex structures. The main thing here is reliability and functionality. Attractiveness is also important, but even simple DIY steam room doors are a result you can be proud of. If they are well processed, they look very decent: the material is beautiful, it does not need any decoration. It is important to properly process and varnish.

Materials

Good commercial wood is used for the manufacture of joinery, without knots or with a minimum number of them. If there are knots, they should not be black. You also need dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%. Ideally, take chamber-drying boards - they will definitely not be damaged. Also look at their geometry: “propellers” and “waves” do not suit us. The boards must be level.

You can buy sanded boards with a molded tongue and groove - there will be less work

Thickness - from 25 mm to 50 mm. Depending on the purpose and design of the door. Before use, their surface is brought to a perfectly smooth state - with grinding machines or manually using sandpaper, attached for convenience to a small block.

A simple option made from planed boards

The simplest wooden interior door can be made from one row of boards 30-40 mm thick, fastened together with transverse strips. Planed and sanded boards are stacked close to one another. There should be no gaps, the match is perfect.

The dimensions of the door leaf should be 4 mm smaller in width and length of the manufactured door frame. Only in this case will it be possible to close them without problems.

To avoid drafts, the boards can be made with profiled edges: make a tenon half the thickness or saw the edges at 45 o. This option is more labor-intensive, but the room will be warm.

According to the rules, grooves are cut out in the boards for transverse strips - dowels. The dowels are driven into this groove, fastening the boards together. Having a special wood saw - a reward - is easy to do:

Make two cuts at 45 o. To prevent the saw from slipping, the angle was kept even; a block with the same angle was nailed to the edge. By sliding the saw along it, you will make an even cut at the desired angle.
On the other side, at a distance of 30 mm, make a similar cut in the other direction.
Use a chisel to select wood between them. The result is a trapezoidal groove into which a key of the same format is driven. For greater reliability, you can use wood glue. It is better not to use PVA glue. Moreover, for the doors to the steam room: it will not withstand such temperatures. For steam rooms and wet rooms, the adhesive is chosen with high class in terms of resistance to moisture (from D3 and above).

As a result, you will get doors to the steam room, assembled with your own hands, without nails.

You can assemble a similar door easier: by screwing the transverse and oblique strips 25-30 mm thick onto self-tapping screws. If you are installing it in a steam room, it is advisable to recess the caps into the wood, or screw them in from the side of the washing and changing rooms. So, when you touch the door, you will not get burned by the heated metal.

Entrance door made of two rows of boards

If the doors are made from two rows of boards, and insulation is laid between them, you will get a good entrance door or an excellent heat-saving option for a steam room. But then you will need a good one in the steam room - with such a device, air does not pass through the doors.

The first row is assembled in exactly the same way as in the previous version: the boards are tightly fitted to one another and fastened with transverse strips.

Doors made of two rows of boards are already entrance doors

Another row will be laid on top, and the gap can be filled with heat insulation. It is selected depending on the installation location: for the front door it is important that if moisture gets in, the insulation does not lose its properties and is not afraid of freezing. A good option is polystyrene foam; polystyrene foam is cheaper. Mineral wool is not suitable - they are afraid of moisture, unless they are protected with a layer of moisture insulation. Then they will keep warm well.

Having laid the heat insulator, it is pressed with a second layer of boards, which are attached to the transverse planks with self-tapping screws. If you have a door without nails on one of the sides, you can turn this particular side towards the street: this way you won’t have to worry about unsightly dark streaks coming from the caps during use.

The final stage of manufacturing a wooden entrance door is finishing around the perimeter. In principle, it was possible to fill (screw with self-tapping screws) slats onto the first layer. It's more correct option. But you can, having assembled both layers, attach thin - 5-7 mm - strips around the perimeter from the ends, covering the insides.

The final stage is finishing the doorway. This is the first thing - if the width of the door frame is not enough, and which give a finished look.

See the video for one of the options for such a door.

Plywood doors

You can make good interior doors with your own hands from blocks and plywood. There may be several options.

Single layer

This design is suitable for installation in any utility room, where sound and heat insulation is unimportant. This is a frame made of wooden blocks with several transverse strips, on which is stuffed plywood sheet suitable size.

Plywood can be any kind, but 1-2 grades are required for good appearance. It does not contain (class 1) or almost no (class 2) knots on the front surface. This material comes in different thicknesses: from 3 mm to 21 mm. There is moisture-resistant plywood - it can be used in wet areas, there is laminated - in this case there is no need for finishing: it is covered with PVC film and has a look similar to wood.

When choosing plywood for residential premises or a bathhouse, you need to pay attention not to safety: in its manufacture, glue is used that contains formaldehyde. The content of formaldehyde is controlled, depending on its quantity and intensity of its release into the atmosphere, and an emission class is assigned: from 0 (almost none) to 5. Plywood with emission class 0 and 1 is allowed even for the manufacture of children's furniture. Therefore, it is also suitable for doors to the bathhouse.

Multilayer

The design is similar, only there can be two or three layers. Heat/sound insulation can be laid between them. As a result, similar doors can be installed in a steam room. You just need to take moisture-resistant plywood. It can then be tinted with stain and covered with heat-resistant varnish (if you want, of course) or soaked in drying oil or wax.

Multi-layer plywood doors are easy to make with your own hands

You can fasten plywood using small nails or self-tapping screws. You will have to drill holes for the screws: then you will be guaranteed that the top layer will not be damaged.

Results

You can make wooden or plywood doors with your own hands. It is important to choose a suitable design, have some patience and time, as well as a certain amount of materials.

Strength of character lies not in the ability to break through walls, but in the ability to find doors. And even better, not only be able to find them, but also be able to create these doors. In this article we will talk about how to realize your power in everyday life and how to make a door with your own hands.

How to prepare

It would seem that the modern market is so wide that you can find a door of any shape, size and quality. But this is not always the case. Especially when it comes to something exclusive, a special type of wood, spectacular stained glass, or an extraordinary shape. Buying a standard factory design is boring and mediocre. And making a door with your own hands is not a difficult task at all, especially if you have a suitable canvas, a pair of skillful hands and a little time.

However, in order to make a beautiful and high-quality door yourself, you need to first study the subtleties and nuances of the material, evaluate the complexity of the technology and calculations, and identify the pitfalls when installing it.

First you need to prepare all the materials and tools that you will need for the job. After all, the final result is influenced not only by the quality of the raw materials themselves, but also by the quality and reliability of the auxiliary tools and materials that were used during the assembly and installation of the door. And for this you will need:

milling machine with manual mechanism. It is used to process a wooden product, give it a shape, and grind the groove elements;
circular saw with manual mechanism;
Bulgarian. In this case it will be used to sand wood;
screwdriver for door installation;
building level and tape measure;
hammer;
pencil or marker.

Regardless of what type of product needs to be made, be it interior doors, entrance doors or doors for a country shed, the same technology is used for all. Therefore, after studying this article, you can easily make homemade doors for any needs. In addition to the tools, you will also need the material itself. Typically, an array is selected from different breeds wood: oak, ash, birch, larch, pine.

Some prefer exotic species: mahogany, wenge, beech. The choice depends on personal preferences, type of room and general concept interior

When making a structure with your own hands, you need to take into account that the wooden canvas will require pre-treatment, especially for hard wood. When choosing a wooden panel, you need to focus on ensuring that the wood is even and smooth. There should be no cracks or holes from knots. The selected board is first dried in a well-ventilated area at a temperature of about 25 ° C.

You can dry it outside, but only in dry weather, preferably in the summer in central Russia. Depending on the type of wood and its initial condition, drying the canvas can take up to ten days.

Popular models

Before you start making doors, you need to think about what type they will be (hinged or sliding), decide on the shape and design. The most important characteristics of all doors is functionality and appearance, because they will become an integral element of the interior.

Let us characterize the main models:

Very popular today sliding doors. A door of the “compartment” type can be either single-leaf or with two leaves. Sliding doors on rollers - an alternative usual options with swing doors, especially if the issue of saving space is acute. There are two types of sliding doors: with bottom tracks and with top tracks. So, using mechanical system with lower guides, the door “walks” on built-in rollers, reducing the load on the walls.

This sliding door fastening system is beneficial for thin partitions in apartments.

Among compartment doors designs with a hinged mechanism are especially popular. Hinged sliding doors are usually made of glass, due to its lighter weight compared to solid wooden counterparts. Besides the fact that this type doors also take up little space in the apartment, plus the fact that it glass surface perfectly transmits light into the room. This option is very appropriate if a major renovation of the Khrushchev building is planned in order to free the already small area of the apartment from unnecessary structures.

Book door, like a sliding door, helps to preserve usable space in the apartment. Its folding design consists of two separate panels, interconnected so that when opened, one part fits onto another similar one, without cluttering the interior. They are often placed in dressing rooms and in bedroom bathrooms.

Accordion door- another option for small apartments. Compared to swing doors, such doors can save up to two meters of space. This type of product can be used in any interior. The design of accordion doors is varied. There are even interesting options with intricate stained glass windows.

Everyone knows paneled doors remain popular to this day due to their aesthetic characteristics. The design of a paneled door differs from a regular one in that additional thinner panels are inserted inside the door frame. Thus, even the most boring door can be made very original using inserts with textured patterns or carvings. The area of use of these doors is not only office premises, but also residential buildings and apartments.

Manufacturing

A standard hinged door consists of several parts:

door frame;
door leaves;
fasteners;
castle;
frames in the form of platbands.

If the fabric of the product is not a monolithic solid board, but has several components, it is necessary to clarify what they will be made of and what their functional purpose is. The frame of the structure is the frame. It determines the main dimensions of the product, gives it rigidity and shape. The outer visible part of the canvas is represented by the covering. In this capacity they can serve not only wood panels, but also plastic profiles or stained glass windows.

If the task is to make an entrance door, then you need to take care of the insulation, which is placed inside, under the casing.

This article will provide information on how to independently make a door of the simplest design with a hinged fastening mechanism, without insulation and complex options casings like glass decorative elements and carved panels.

Measurements

Measure seven times and cut once. This proverb will be more relevant than ever when making a door yourself. Indeed, the final result will depend on how correctly the measurements are taken. There is no need to figure out which parts need to be measured. All the main parameters have long been known; you just need to write them down on a piece of paper and measure them using a regular construction tape.

It is imperative to measure:

door width (distance from the left to the right edge of the door);
door height (distance from the floor to the top point);
width of the doorway;
thickness of the doorway;
opening slope (if there are distortions);
evenness (identify elements whose size differs from the main one).

When determining the width of the product, it is recommended to measure the distance between the side parts of the opening near the floor, in the center of the opening and at the upper border of the opening and find the average value. If necessary, if these values differ, the opening can be trimmed.

For an interior door, the width is usually 80-90 cm, for an entrance door - 90-120 cm. The height of the door is determined by the height of the opening and is approximately 200-210 cm. Measurements are taken with the same tape measure from the floor to the top point of the doorway.

One should take into account the fact that if the apartment does not yet have flooring, the measured height will not be entirely accurate, so First, it is recommended to finish the floor work so that all parameters of the future door are taken into account correctly. When determining the height of the door, measurements are also taken at three points (far left, center and far right).

The thickness of the doorway is measured similar to the width of the door. You just need to take into account that the width of the frame will be slightly larger, since it is necessary to leave a distance between the door and the frame for the door to move freely. And yet, when forming the box, you should remember that its width should be several centimeters less than the measured width of the opening, since during installation it is necessary to leave technological voids.

The thickness of the doorway is measured at six points (thickness at the bottom, middle, top for the left edge and the same positions for the right edge). This parameter will depend on the thickness of the wall into which the door will be mounted. For the entrance it is usually larger than for the interior, but there are exceptions. Here you should also pay attention to the presence of non-standard dimensions of the opening thickness. In this case, it is necessary to provide extras that will compensate for this moment.

In order to simplify the installation of the structure, it is necessary to first determine the evenness of the opening. Using a building level, check the vertical of the opening (at three points) and the diagonal. Using a tape measure, measure the distance inside the opening diagonally, from top corner to the bottom, for each side. Both values should be approximately equal. In case of strong deviations, not only the appearance of the structure will deteriorate, but also the reliability of the fastening system will be called into question.

After the basic parameters have been measured, they move on to correcting unevenness and distortions. To do this, these areas are plastered or the excess is cut off using a grinder. Ideal option may be leveling the opening using plasterboard sheets.

Eliminating deficiencies identified during the measurement of product dimensions will certainly have a positive impact on further work and will eliminate many unpleasant moments during installation.

Materials

Modern market oversaturated various options doors made of various materials. However, wood remains traditional. Thanks to your high rates quality, as well as the property of being perfectly combined with wooden furniture And parquet board, wooden doors have become more in demand, especially in the interiors of apartments and country houses.

In addition to their aesthetic characteristics, wooden products have a number of other advantages: strength of the material, ease of processing of the material, ability to retain heat, good sound insulation, as well as environmental friendliness.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that if the choice fell on a wooden door, then all other parts should also be made of wood (frame, trim, extensions).

The disadvantages of wood include easy flammability, the ability to absorb moisture and expand, and, of course, high cost.

The most popular, but not the easiest to manufacture, are paneled doors. It is better to use ready-made cutters as internal inserts, since cutting them yourself is labor-intensive work. On the construction market you can purchase a set of routers for a future door. To save on material, The door leaf can be made from boards, instead of a wide monolithic leaf.

If you need to make a door to a country shed or a bathhouse, you can use even cheaper materials. A good alternative to solid wood would be a plywood door. This is a fairly durable material; during its manufacture, sheets of peeled veneer are glued together so that the fibers of one sheet are perpendicular to the fibers of the other. The outer layers of plywood are covered with veneer made from aspen, pine or larch (these types of veneer have good strength and aesthetic appearance).

Products made from lining - also inexpensive option. The advantage of this material is that in order to make a door, it is not necessary to use factory lining; you can make separate profiles from scrap materials.

Except natural materials, synthetic polycarbonates are widely used. It is advantageous to choose this material for making a door when it is expected that the structure will be affected by adverse weather conditions (humidity, temperature). But if previously polycarbonate was used to make greenhouses, now it is easily used for entrance doors, the main thing is to provide a reliable base and insulation.

If desired, you can build a structure from other polymers. Often they make an aluminum frame with plexiglass inserts. It looks quite stylish, but these materials are quite expensive.

How to make a door frame?

Before you start assembling the door frame, you need to study its structure. So, the door frame consists of four main parts: two pillars (its longest parts), a threshold and a top crossbar (short parts). First, measure the length of the racks. In the case of using a threshold, it is equal to the length of the door plus 2-3 centimeters for the gap on each side. If there is no threshold, then instead of a gap at the bottom, add 15-20 centimeters. This will ensure the door moves freely from the floor.

The measured values are drawn on the canvas and each stand is cut out with a special knife.

The crossbar and threshold are identical components. Their length consists of the width of the door, the same two gaps and the thickness of the frame. The measured dimensions are transferred to a wooden canvas and one or two elements are cut out, depending on the need for the threshold. Grooves are cut out in the top crossbar of the box, marking the lines where the posts intersect with the top crossbar, and these areas are carefully cut out with a jigsaw on each side.

Once all the grooves have been cut, the posts and crossbar are aligned on the floor to ensure they fit together. After this, the cut parts are thoroughly sanded with sandpaper, eliminating all unevenness and roughness. When all the elements of the box are ready, you can start assembling.

In order to assemble the structure, you will need a drill or screwdriver. A 2-3 millimeter drill is inserted into the screwdriver and holes are drilled in the aligned corners of the future box. These holes will keep the material intact when screwing screws into them. Use a Phillips drill to drive screws into each hole. The door frame is almost ready.

To make sure that the frame is made correctly, you need to place it on the floor and put the selected door leaf inside, assessing the presence of gaps between them. It is worth noting that if the task is to make a sliding structure yourself, then you need to take into account its distinctive mechanism. When opened, such a door will move to the side, like a pencil case (to drive into the wall or lie on it), therefore, when forming the box, you should provide a groove for the door in one of the racks.

How to make the door itself: step-by-step instructions

Now let's look at how to make the door itself. For outbuildings, the door will be a simple shield made of separate boards fastened together with wooden straps. Interior wooden doors should have a more aesthetic appearance; simple frames are not applicable here.

The work should be carried out on a carpentry stand or on a table that will allow the product to be completely placed on it.

To form the door leaf, tongue and groove boards with grooves are used (you can also cut the grooves yourself). The thickness of the boards should be from 2.5 to 4 centimeters, depending on whether it will be an interior door or an entrance door. The prepared boards are placed in a shield. If tongue and groove boards are taken, then the grooves on the outer boards are removed using a circular saw.

The boards are glued together with wood glue, and the pattern of the annual rings must be observed (they must lie in the same direction so that the finished product does not show an imbalance). The door blank is placed in a vice to align the elements more tightly, and the glue is allowed to dry. After that, the entire surface of the canvas is passed through a milling machine, paying special attention to joints and uneven fragments.

If the thickness of the boards is not sufficient to use the door as an entrance, then you can glue the boards in two layers. Such a door will be quite massive and heavy.

Next we move on to designing the finished shield. Using a stencil, transfer the design onto a wooden canvas, first with a pencil. Using a router with a manual mechanism, the design is carefully cut out, changing cutters. The finished drawing and the canvas itself should be treated with sandpaper, then blotted with a special antiseptic solution. If the door is an entrance door, then it must be treated with moisture-resistant agents and flame retardants. This way it will last much longer.

How to insert?

The places where the hinges will be located are marked on the door frame. Marks are also made on the door leaf in appropriate places. To do this, place it in a vertical position, with the top facing the side where the hinges are attached. On the reverse side, mark the location of the lock. First, the door is placed in the frame, the markings are checked, the location of the lock tongue on the frame is marked, then the hinges are inserted, then they are applied to the door and to the frame, and drilled with a drill. The tongue is carefully cut out with a jigsaw.

To correctly install a door lock, it is first applied to the installation site on the product, circled, and all the necessary technological holes are marked with dots. After the installation depth of the lock has been determined, it is placed in the marked place and screwed. Now that all the parts are ready, you need to install them correctly.

First we insert the door frame into the opening. We level it and secure it with wedges. You can adjust a box already mounted in the wall by hitting the wedges with a hammer. Then dowels and screws are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall and frame. And lastly, the most important thing is the assembly of the door and frame.

It is better to perform this operation together in order to avoid injuries, since the door leaf is a heavy structure. Holding the door suspended, we secure the hinges with self-tapping screws.

After the assembly of the main parts is completed, you can move on to the platbands. It’s easier to buy ready-made ones in a store or make them yourself using wooden blanks 1-1.5 cm thick and a simple jigsaw. Each edge of the casing is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and adjusted to length. Finished products are secured at the level of the box using wood glue or small nails.

In general, the work of installing a door, with a competent approach and quality materials, will take no more than two days. And the above recommendations can be used to make doors from other materials, changing only some tools.

Finishing

It will help to give the finished product a finished look finishing. You can also do it yourself; it’s more enjoyable and less difficult work than installation and assembly of the door itself. Door finishing can be done as follows:

painting the door;
varnish coating;
wallpapering or decorative film;
decoupage;
insertion of mirrors and colored glass;
fabric lining;
application of techniques for aging wood.

How to make wooden entrance doors with your own hands? Currently, the industry produces a large number of entrance doors from various materials and with various finishes. But the cost of such products is quite high.

If you want to install a wooden entrance door and at the same time save your family budget, you can make a durable wooden entrance door. To do this you need to purchase necessary materials and strictly follow the work technology.

How to install a wooden entrance door

Materials and tools:

boards;
wooden wedges;
spacers;
wood glue;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
hammer;
polyurethane foam;
drill;
nails;
loops;
roulette;
building level.

Making a door frame

First you need to take measurements of the opening. After this, the installation of the door frame begins. To do this you need to flat surface, you can put the elements of the box on the floor. Check the correctness of right angles using a building level. Then you need to glue the box elements at the corners. The connection is fixed using self-tapping screws.

Install the box in the doorway. Then you need to mount the frame by installing wedges in the middle and at the corners. Using a building level, check the correct installation of the box. Then they place spacers opposite the wedges. With the help polyurethane foam fill the gap between the door frame and the wall.

After the foam has dried, approximately 12 hours, remove excess foam. Then the wedges and spacers are removed.

Then the platbands are installed. To do this, you need to cut out a part of the required length, drill required quantity holes for nails. Mount the casing to the opening using nails. The product will be mounted on hinges.

DIY wooden entrance door

Materials and tools:

boards;
solid wood;
thermal insulation;
wood glue;
roulette;
building level;
plane;
chisel;
drill;
milling cutter;
self-tapping screws;
loops;
hammer;
nails;
sandpaper.

The entrance model must be durable, reliably protect the house, and not let in the cold. The structure must be made with insulation. One side of the product must be covered with thermal insulation material. Therefore, there will be no panels on this side. It is made flat, without panels, and covered with fiberboard.

It is necessary to purchase boards with a thickness of 50 mm. The width of the board should be 11 cm. This design is made for a door frame with dimensions of 200x90 cm. After measuring the frame, its dimensions are specified and the dimensions of the future door are determined. To do this, you need to reduce the size of the box on each side by 0.5 cm.

Then measurements are taken. The dimensions of the product are reduced on each side. This will give you about 192x82 cm.

The product must be made with 5 panels. They are made from solid wood.

To complete the design, you will need 2 longitudinal boards, which will be located along the length of the product and have dimensions of 192 cm. Then 4 transverse boards with a length of 72 cm are made.

When installing, the distances between the crossbars are left such that all panels are the same size. The connection is made according to the tenon-groove principle, the size of which will be 5x6 cm.

All parts of the structure are connected to each other. Check the horizontal and vertical positions of the elements using a building level. After this, check the correct installation of the product.

There should be no gaps between tongue-and-groove joints. In this case, the tenon should not fit into the groove quite tightly. If upon inspection it turns out that the structure was assembled correctly, treat all joints with wood glue.

Since the product will be exposed to sudden temperature changes and various precipitation, dowels must be made to increase its strength.

To make dowels, holes 10 mm deep are drilled in the longitudinal boards using a drill. They must pass through the spikes of the diameters. 8 dowels are installed for the structure.

Then, using a plane, the deformations between the joints are eliminated. After this, you need to prepare a milling cutter with special nozzle. This nozzle is designed for making grooves. You can use a window cutter.

A groove is made using a router. It should be located on one side of the product and be half the thickness of the door leaf under the panels. Then, using a chisel, round the corners of the joints.

After this, panels are made. They are made from solid wood. To do this, they are cut out taking into account required sizes. It is necessary that they are securely fixed in the grooves.

On milling machine On one side of the board a panel is made. It is necessary to adjust the position of the surface of the milling machine.

Then you need to sand the panel from the front side. Then it is mounted into the door frame.

The panels must be attached flush with the door frame. This is necessary to ensure that the fiberboard sheets are installed correctly.

The panels are fixed using self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle so that they are not noticeable from the back of the canvas. After this, the fiberboard is installed and nailed with a hammer and nails.

For finishing outside doors are made edge cutter. After manufacturing it on a milling machine, it must be sanded with sandpaper. After this, the handles are screwed on and the lock is inserted. Then the product is installed in the door frame on the hinges. This concludes the manufacture and installation of a wooden entrance door.

An entrance door made with your own hands using this technology will be strong, reliable and durable.

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After erecting the walls of an apartment or private building, builders move on to the stage of finishing the premises. Already at this stage of construction there is a need to install an entrance door to protect the interior from negative impact external factors. We also need interior interior fittings, primarily for bathrooms.

What kind of doors can you make yourself?

Most homeowners prefer to contact specialized organizations, ordering door structures there or purchasing them in construction stores. However, there are situations when you can do it yourself.

Entrance or interior of a country house and bathhouse.
Temporary door at the entrance to a private house.
All in a situation where the budget does not allow turning to professionals.
This is an option for people who know how to handle tools and wood.

The best material for making a door yourself is wood. Such structures can be frame or made of solid wood.

Advantages and disadvantages

Durability, environmental friendliness, reliability, good processing ability of the material - these are positive qualities these devices.

TO negative aspects can be attributed to high hygroscopicity, which may result in swelling of the material and warping of the frame, as well as the need for constant maintenance to maintain a good presentation.

What wood is used as raw material?

Having decided on self-production building element, the master selects the material suitable for the specific structure.

pine is one of the cheap materials that can be easily processed, but can dry out over time;
alder is also an affordable, light and soft wood, but one must take into account its ability to dry;
birch - it combines density and sufficient hardness with viscosity and beautiful texture, but this material can deteriorate over time;
oak boards - characterized by high strength and durability, requiring skills in wood processing;
beech - it also belongs to hard rocks, and due to its ability to absorb moisture, it requires additional processing;
larch, walnut and maple - perfect material For beautiful door, durable and resistant to all impacts;
In the premises of expensive apartments or cottages, mahogany veneer is used for interior doors.

Door making tool

When planning to make a door yourself, you need to think about what tool to prepare for this work. There are several options for DIY products and each requires its own set of accessories. However, there are sets that are always necessary:

roulette;
chisel;
hacksaw;
a square and a long rigid ruler;
drill;
screwdriver and screwdriver set;
grinding devices;
strong sharp knife for woodworking.

manual circular;
manually operated milling machine;
Bulgarian with grinding wheels on wood.

Door in a budget “panel” version

You can make it yourself from 50 mm thick boards without using any special cabinetmaking skills. Such a door can be classified as budget option, experts call it “with dowels.” This may be a temporary structure if it is planned to install a more expensive option in this place in the future. At the same time, she is good for country house or baths on summer cottage. Its advantage is durability and high strength. In this case, pine doors are the cheapest option.

The size of the door is determined by the opening made during construction. A box is installed in it and after that the necessary parameters of the future are measured. door design.

It should be 10-15 mm wide and along the top edge smaller size boxes, and along the lower edge 15-20 mm away from the threshold.

On a sheet of fiberboard laid on a flat surface, the outline of the proposed door is drawn. Special attention care must be taken to maintain 90 degrees at all corners of the contour.

For such a design, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 mm thick, pre-treated with a plane. A quarter is selected from both sides so that during assembly there are no gaps between the boards.

The width of the boards is calculated so that a multiple number of elements fit into the selected contour same size. In this case, the design will look neat.

Having prepared the boards the right size, you need to lay them in the outline drawn on the fiberboard sheet, securing the resulting shield with temporary brackets. Then, using an electric saw, cuts are made at the top and bottom of the shield for the pre-prepared dowels. To do this, the saw is set at an angle of 60 degrees. The unnecessary part of the wood is knocked out with a chisel.

Dowels are prepared from bars and standard version have dimensions:

along the bottom of the bar on one side 50 mm, on the other 45 mm;
along the top - on one side 35 mm, on the other 30 mm.

Thus, a kind of trapezoidal wedge is obtained in profile.

These keys are inserted into the prepared grooves. The final fastening is done with wooden spikes or glue.

A strut is installed from the right edge of the upper key to the left edge of the lower key. First, oblique cuts are made on it for tight installation to the keys. The slope is fastened with tenons or wood screws.

Budget door made of wood and fiberboard

You can make a simple wooden door from a wood frame, filler and fiberboard. To do this you will need the following materials.

50 mm thick board to make the frame.
Fiberboard sheet - panels for the outer surface are cut from it.
The filler of the inner surface can be stone wool insulation, pressed corrugated cardboard or other suitable material.

To begin with, lay out a sheet of fiberboard on a flat surface. After this, the contours of the door are applied to it, strictly maintaining 90-degree angles.

A frame of fifty-millimeter boards is assembled on this contour. It is assembled in the “tenon and groove” version, when a through groove is cut in one board, and a tenon suitable in size for the prepared groove is cut in the other. Another option is to remove quarters from the ends of the boards, and then lay them one inside the other.

When assembling “tenon and groove”, fastening is done using glue and wooden round tenons. When assembling “overlay”, it is better to secure the boards with wood screws.

A wooden strip is inserted in the middle of the door rectangle to provide rigidity to the frame. To prevent the frame from changing its geometry during further assembly of the door partition, it must be secured with temporary brackets.

Two sheets are cut from fiberboard according to the size of the door outline. One sheet is attached with self-tapping screws to the prepared frame.

The resulting internal voids are filled with the selected filler. After which the second sheet is attached to the frame on the other side.

If necessary, fittings are installed in the prepared door - handles and latches.

Such a homemade wooden door is installed at the entrance to the bathtub and toilet, or as another interior partition.

Paneled door design

Production is possible in paneled design. It's more the hard way. A person who takes on such work must have certain skills in woodworking.

Paneled doors made of solid pine are best option in homemade production. Pine is a cheaper material, but at the same time, boards made from it are easy to process and are durable.

Components of paneled fabric: frame or trim, mullions, panels.

Do-it-yourself woodworking begins with making a frame, which is the frame of the entire structure. There are strapping bars different thicknesses. If their thickness is about 44 mm, then they are connected using the “tenon and groove” method into one tenon. When the thickness of the frame bars is up to 54 mm, the mating is made with two tenons, and with thicker bars - with three. The fastening of the bars is done with glue using round wooden tenons.
Middle bars are bars of the same thickness as the trim. Their number depends on the design of the canvas and can be from one to three. In some cases, in addition to transverse mullions, a longitudinal mullion is installed. These elements strengthen the door system and, in addition, panels are secured to them. The mullions are also connected to the strapping in the “tenon and groove” version.
The panels are made from solid wood, multi-layer plywood, and also from special reinforced glass. You can attach the panels in the trim and mullions in different ways- in a quarter without layouts, using self-tapping screws; in a deeper quarter with layouts that hold the panel in the fabric structure, the layouts are secured with self-tapping screws; into a blind tongue.

This is done due to the fact that the wooden door leaf can pick up moisture or dry out, depending on the season.

If the master has artistic skills, then the panels can be made with patterns.

After final assembly When installing a paneled door leaf, it should be allowed to “rest” for several days so that possible errors during assembly can be identified. Then paint the canvas or decorate it in any other accessible way.

Attention! When painting you need to pay attention to one feature. After applying the first layer of paint or varnish to wooden surface villi appear, forming surface roughness. When the paint has dried, go over the wooden surface with fine-grained sandpaper. The door becomes smooth and you can safely apply the second coat.

So, it is quite possible to make a wooden door with your own hands. The main thing is to correctly assess the abilities and capabilities, choose the right raw materials, and exercise care and safety precautions when manufacturing the door structure. Still, wood soft material, and the tool used for processing it is especially sharp.