How to properly install roof gutters. How to properly install gutters on the roof - the device and the sequence of fastening the elements of the system. Technical subtleties of mounting technology

The drainage system is an important part of the architecture, and it must be thought out even in the project. Yes, and according to modern building codes and regulations, it is desirable to install gutters even before installing the final roofing. But in practice, this is not always the case. Also, ideally, the first thing you should decide before buying a gutter system is how exactly you will fasten the gutters: along the eaves, to the front board or to the first row of the batten. But, unfortunately, some modern manufacturers offer brackets that are designed for only one type of attachment - to the frontal board.

Then what to do in such a situation: the roof is already covered and the roofing is laid, if we are talking about metal sheets that are fixed “tightly” or there is no frontal board at all? Now we will reveal a couple of secrets to you!

When the installation of a drain is needed only for finishing work?

A drain is most often fixed exclusively to the frontal board, if the air flow to ventilate the internal insulation is carried out through special holes in the overhang filing - they are also called perforated soffits. This is the easiest and cheapest way to ventilate, although not the most professional, because this is not enough for a good air flow. Therefore, experienced roofers believe that it is more efficient to make air flow through the gap that forms under the crate.

In this case, you will need to place the front board low enough, and fix the brackets for the gutters only on the crate. True, such a system has drawbacks: under the weight of snow and ice, the board can simply break. Based on this, decide which method is right for you.

Also, fasteners exclusively to the frontal board are necessary if the drainage system is installed much later after the construction of the house. For example, you bought an unfinished building (a fairly common situation). And, if you don’t touch the expensive one and it’s not clear according to what specific principles the laid roofing material is, then you can only fix the brackets to the frontal board. In addition, when replacing the drainage system, it also cannot be done in any other way.

And the third point: if you used an anti-condensate waterproofing film, according to the rules, it must be brought to the cornice overhang, and this is also possible only when attaching the drain directly to the frontal board, but not to the crate:

7 Popular Mounting Methods

To secure the gutters and downpipes and you will need special hooks. According to building rules, you can install them in three main ways: in a common boardwalk, if we are talking about a soft roof, in rafter legs and in a windboard of an eaves overhang:

One of the most popular examples:

Method number 1. Fastening to the truss system: raise the cover

Sometimes home craftsmen even count on the fact that after the construction of the roof is completed, they will still be able to lift one or two sheets of roofing and fasten the hooks to the crate. But in fact, it’s not possible to tear off sheets of any coating just like that, because in this case you will have to get rid of one or two rows of self-tapping screws or nails. And in this place you can no longer do without patches, which will nullify the entire aesthetic effect.

But some tricky method is still used in this regard, and its essence is to put special boards under the coating, which allow it not to wrinkle the roofing material and unscrew the mount with pliers. And it does work!

Something similar is often done with slate. There, right into the waves of slate, wooden bars are inserted, which were previously planed along the profile of the wave. Here, the mount for the drain is mounted directly through the slate itself - both the bar and the hook at the same time.

Method number 2. Fastening to the frontal board: we create a reliable support

Fastening hooks to the frontal board is the easiest way if the roof is already ready. Moreover, the frontal board itself is not at all difficult to decorate so that it looks like a separate element of the roof exterior:

For metal roofing, short hooks are needed, from the same material, and it is also better to mount them on metal:

But a light-weight plastic drain can withstand a wooden frontal board without any problems:

Method number 3. Mounting on "crutches": let's go for the trick

If there is no frontal board on the roof at all, then special metal or wooden “crutches” are installed in the wall, and the gutter is attached directly to them using studs or beams:

Method number 4. Brackets in supports

Or the hooks have to be screwed into what is, especially when it comes to small outbuildings:

Method number 5. Invisible brackets: grab the gutter from above

In addition, brackets are sold today that are invisible even after installation, because they hold the gutters from above, not from below. Brilliant solution, right?

Such brackets must be fastened in increments of 40 and 70 cm, otherwise, with a greater distance, the gutters can deform under the weight of ice or snow:

Those brackets that are attached to the crate or from above to the rafter leg must first be bent and shaped in order to then perfectly fit them to the slope of the slope.

Method number 6. Adjustable arms: for difficult conditions

You will be interested to know that adjustable brackets are on sale today. It is enough to tighten the screws to adjust them and adjust them depending on the angle of inclination of the ramp. This way you don't have to re-check the bending radius of each hook individually.

Look how these brackets are arranged! These are the two main parts that can be shifted relative to each other depending on the required mounting height:

Method number 7. Fasten directly to the roofing

In the most difficult cases, sometimes you have to purchase brackets that are more expensive, but which allow you to install a drain even on a roof where a fragile corrugated coating has already been laid:

Of course, this method is only suitable for regions where it rains infrequently and not in large quantities.

So, to summarize: how reliable the mount will be depends on whether you mounted the gutters correctly. After all, the drain does not have such a task as solving the problem of snow - this should be done by snow retainers and special cable heating.

Technical subtleties of mounting technology

And now we will make a brief overview of the technology of fixing the drain on the finished roof.

How to calculate the required number of drainage elements?

B is the horizontal distance from the overhang to the ridge;
H is the height, and C is the length of the roof (all dimensions are in meters).

Here is how to properly install the gutter system on the frontal board:

Step 1. On the board itself, which was previously installed, mark a horizontal line with a laser at the highest point of the gutter.
Step 2. Then place a real line, taking into account the slope, which should be from 3 to 5 millimeters per linear meter of the gutter.
Step 3. Now you need to number all the hooks, and the marking itself should be done taking into account the slope of the gutter. Next, with the help of a hook bender, we slightly change the radius of the hooks.
Step 4 Install the two extreme hooks, and between them, along the very bottom of the gutter, you need to pull the rope. Install the rest of the mount.
Step 5. Determine the location of the funnel at the end of the gutter according to their size.
Step 6. Next, attach the gutter funnel to the board and circle the outline with a pencil. From the edge of the contour to the center, leave a 45 mm edging and cut a hole with a regular hacksaw? or special scissors for metal.
Step 7. Now bend the resulting frames outward. Insert the grooves into each other. It is important that the front of the gutter is put on correctly so that its spout is inside the curl.

The whole assembly is quite simple, akin to a children's designer.

Gutters and funnels: positioned at the right distance

And now let's go directly to the installation of the gutter:

Step 1. First of all, we mount the funnel and the gutters adjacent to it.
Step 2. Fasten the edges of the gutter with self-tapping screws to the frontal board.
Step 3. We fix the funnel and the gutters themselves until their profiles completely match.
Step 4. We check the angle of inclination and the location of the brackets.
Step 5. We install the profile of the gutters on them and dock them together. We close the free ends with a plug.
Step 6. From the funnel we make a drain and pipes in the wall.
Step 7. We mount the bracket for the pipe.
Step 8. We mark the pipe installation path and fasten the already vertical drain elements.

Modern metal drains are interconnected on seals and clamps. Plastic drains are connected in three main ways: on latches with a clip, on rubber seals and by cold welding. The main thing with all this is to take into account the compensation of linear expansion.

Also think about such an element as a special grate for the gutter system. It is needed in order to clean the flowing water from plant debris, which is often washed off the roof - these are needle leaves and branches. After all, stagnant water in winter can turn literally overnight into ice and break the drain from the inside.

Fixing vertical gutters

To begin with, let's take a closer look at how and which wall to properly fix drains. So:

In the case of a three-layer wall, the holders need to be attached only to the front layer. If its thickness is about 9 cm, then the anchor depth should be 6 cm, and if the thickness is 12 cm, then the anchor depth should be 8-9 cm.
If we are talking about a two-layer wall, then after it is finished, a hole 6-9 centimeters deep should be drilled in it. It is important that the dowel must pass the second layer of thermal insulation. And only after that you can tighten the mount.
With a single-layer wall, you need to do this: fix the holder in the wall with screws or a special expansion dowel, but to a depth of at least 6 centimeters.
But if you are fixing the drains in a wooden frame wall, attach the holder with self-tapping screws to the wooden facade. You can fix all this with a long sharp rod.

It is more competent, of course, to install the vertical components of the drain even in the process of laying the walls, but after their completion such work is quite possible. It is important to know only a few rules:

pipes must always be installed from the bottom up;
drill small holes;
a distance must be maintained between the drain pipe and the wall;
fix at the bottom a special drain elbow with a cut corner so that water does not fall directly under the foundation.
Or, replace the elbow with a regular pipe link and bring it to the storm sewer.
A drainage system is attached to wooden walls using a rod or a special plate with screws. Such a long and pointed rod simply needs to be hammered.
But if the wall is too thin in the right places, then you will need a long rod, which will be additionally fixed with a plate with screws.

A little illustration will help you figure it out:

And the technology of vertical fastening is quite simple:

Step 1. Connect the pipes with couplings.
Step 2 Leave a gap when inserting the down tube.
Step 3. Under the coupling, mount the bracket with the trunk.
Step 4 Install the tees in the same way.
Step 5. Glue the bottom bend to the pipe.

Look at this step by step illustration. In photo No. 11, a decorative nozzle is very clearly visible:

Another important point: the pipe, which is located closest to the corner of the cornice overhang, should be at a distance of 15 centimeters from the corner of the house. You can place it in the middle of the cornice overhang, or right around the corner, already on the end wall.

Thus, you can easily remove the drain pipe from the facade, and your gutter system, which had to be installed on the finished roof, will look inconspicuous and harmonious!

A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into a storm sewer, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating a crate for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve the fastening of drainage systems after roofing. In addition, there are other situations, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is facilitated by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided for different cases in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, make them in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems according to the material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, among other things, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" drains quickly became very popular with customers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - ordinary galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, it is worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be immediately noted that each from materials from which drains are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

Plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal an option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, it is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit snugly against the windboard and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration, like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant drawback.

with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well, outwardly they look very elegant, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, polymer-coated steel parts are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Great care is needed when assembling and working with fasteners.

Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly voe bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems can be called the fact that some of their parts can be much easier to fit to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. Reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, supporting brackets of various designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with basic parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit in shape and size to the gutter.

Learn how to produce by reading the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after the roof is covered?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the points when circumstances may force us to engage in the installation of a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

This process itself, in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated details of the spotlights installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more efficient, and therefore they plan to fix the gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished, and the former owner did not provide for their installation in advance.
Highly common the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and exhausted is that the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and do not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the cornice overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along cornice overhangs

Gutter bracket types

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

Long hooks are most often used for fastening under the roof covering before its decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid crate.
Short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the front board or on the wall of the building. This type of hook is mounted both before laying the roofing on the truss system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Ways to fix gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets on the elements of the truss system:

On the rafter legs, both on the end, and on their upper or side sides.
On the wind (frontal) board.
Under the roof, on the bottom board of the crate or on plywood (OSB) of a solid crate.
At the edge of the roofing.

The first way - to the rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the batten. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Fastening hooks to the boards (sheets) of the crate

If the roofing has already been installed, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the bottom row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be dismantled carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without violating integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In the situation when it is equipped on the roof, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood coating. The next step bituminous tile or roofing material is returned to its original position and fixed to the surface with the help of bituminous mastic.

Video: Installation of a gutter system with edge dismantling of tiled roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in fixing the hooks on the side of their timber. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent mounting platform turned into a horizontal plane - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs are large enough in cross section, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water may overflow during heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to try on, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second way is to mount the brackets on the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

For mounting a drainage system on a frontal board, the following are suitable:

Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has large enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg of the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

Short brackets are designed to mount them on the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as on the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be doubtful due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will hold the gutters firmly.

In addition to the usual brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function is indispensable, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Prices for brackets

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on the side of the profile and move along the guide, with the arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this mounting system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in terms of level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is beaten off on the windboard with a slope of three to five millimeters per linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation site for the first bracket.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (the systems of some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area of installation of the drain funnel, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such markings, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third way is to fasten the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing

This method is applicable to install a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Hook-holders are fastened with the help of special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to fix some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, departing from its edge at least 50 mm. Others have a design that does not require drilling of the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave cover, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. Under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, it is recommended to place rubber pads on both the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be remade independently by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to fasten the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with the previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets on the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on one that has already covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is of the right width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, by analogy with the picture shown above.
If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the appropriate diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If it is planned to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the downpipe funnel is provided.

A pull-up suspension mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes such a design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which hooks the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a sleeve with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastener is screwed into the wall or frontal board.

This type of fasteners can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fasteners are chosen, then the gutter must be closed from above with a protective net, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water from roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Gutter parameters and slope angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store to pick it up, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the section of the pipes into which storm drains will flow from the gutter, since if you purchase a pipe of insufficiently large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. In this regard, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the slope cornice has a size of up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a drain vertical pipe. With longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to mount two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated on the diagram above by the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which a downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two guttershaving a slope towards the corners of the building, where the drains are installed.

gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm per linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what dimensions of the gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, given the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m²	Gutter cross section, mm	Cross-section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	Cross-section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60÷100	115	87	-
80÷130	125	110	-
120÷200	150	-	87
160÷220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can also use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
Gutter -75 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, downpipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, downpipe 110 mm
Catchment area, m²
95	148	240	205	165	370
48	74	120	100	82	180
42	50	95	80	65	145

gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having dealt with the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and with how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays an important role in the design:

A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be needed in two-pipe drainage systems or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its ends on both sides.
Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain chute on one or both sides, depending on the selected installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to a vertical downpipe.
Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then the elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has large enough width, due to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters, then the elbows may not be used at all.
Brackets for fixing the drainpipe on the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the holders of the gutter and downpipe will be attached.

Brackets-holders for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the eaves and choose the optimal installation step.
Brackets-clamps for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a step of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. They can be installed on each slope two or one.
Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools needed for the job

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required for the installation of the drain. It must be correctly understood that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will turn out to be not very neat and will have to be cleaned.
Shears for cutting sheet metal.
Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
Hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for the installation of clamp brackets for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
A rubber mallet (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
Reliable ladder-ladder or scaffolding - for the convenience of work and ensure its safety.

Prices for a hacksaw for metal

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you need to immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems with a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a “grinder” (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When performing a cut with a grinder, metal or plastic gets very hot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of the metal and the melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymeric protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter can begin to peel off at a distance of up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the details drains only with those tools that above.

We believe that everything necessary for the installation of a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing pie is already mounted, the most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix the short holders on the windboard. And, it should be noted that many roofers find the short version of hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

Short holders do not have to be bent, as they are already ready for installation.
If it is necessary to repair the drain, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since it does not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, the work can be done independently, without calling the masters.
The cost of short holders is somewhat lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a scheme for arranging a drain. In this case, a system with one funnel and a downpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Marking begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the windboard. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the frontal board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the downpipe is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To simplify the task, you can take a tinted paint cord. The cord tied to the nail is stretched along the length of the windboard to a mark made on its opposite side.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the eaves, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is beaten off. Markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The rest of the steps are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The mounting step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme marking points, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as a stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point for fixing the hooks.
	Next, intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord with the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the windboard, the cord must be removed and the correct installation of the hooks must be checked again. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the drain without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the coating will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn scheme, is to mark the holes on the gutter for installing a funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, two cuts are made with a hacksaw at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this way they will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooked onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "lugs" that need to be bent into the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, the most reliable fastening of two parts - a gutter and a funnel will be obtained. Here it is also necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is higher.
	The next step is cutting seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, easy to bend and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals may come with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately from the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in this case the second side of this gutter will join with another segment that goes around the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be put on the metal edge quite hard. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into place.
	Instead of a rubber seal, roofing sealant can be used, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the plug. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install a sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, they also apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters in the brackets fixed on the windboard. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, it must be gently pressed so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for drains in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in the brackets, a latch is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on its edge from above. From the outer edge of the gutter, it snaps into place with a special clip. To increase reliability, from the inside the joint of the gutters is covered with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer, and then smoothed out with a finger, as it should not create obstacles for the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if it is provided for by the project. The first of these is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the latch on the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of home tools, it will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter with a metal strip, which is fastened with a self-tapping screw with a wide cap or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be slightly bent. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow loads and spring ice. In addition to such stretch marks, in addition, between the brackets to hold the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the windboard, hooked only on the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the brackets-holders, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow in the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The knee is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second knee, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe, is measured. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe, which will connect the two knees. To the obtained value, you need to add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee mounted on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on its second side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid the flow of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above should go inside the bottom.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm from the resulting size will go to the docking of a flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point to consider is that the standard length of the pipe, just like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the clamp brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed in increments of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are fixed on it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly by bending, which can be done with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. Plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ 300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drainage pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm water inlet.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowing the nuances of the calculation and information about which fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent suitable for the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the master in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

If you do not have the knowledge of how to properly fix the gutter, then first study the process technology in detail from start to finish. It is ideal, of course, to install a drainage system when building a house. But the completed house should not scare you, because the installation of the gutters of the drainage system will only slightly deviate from the main technology, namely:

1. Installation of fasteners is the beginning of the installation of the entire drainage system, and therefore it is so important to choose the right fasteners, which are brackets.

Now on the construction market you can find sets of gutters with matched fasteners. If such a product is not available, then keep in mind that the diameter of the brackets must match the diameter of the gutter.

It is recommended to first calculate the number of these parts, based on the material of the drainage elements of the structure. So, for fastening metal elements, it is desirable to keep a distance between brackets of 0.5-0.6 m, and for plastic gutters, 3 fasteners per 1 m are required. Add complex external and internal turns here, and you will get the right amount of fasteners.

2. Now you need to decide on one of the ways to fix the gutters, for example:

Fastening the gutter to the front board. This method involves the use of plastic gutter elements with a fully completed roof. The choice of metal gutters will require the installation of short special hooks.

Please note that this option is applicable in places where large snowfall from roofs is minimal, otherwise the drainage system may collapse.

Rafter legs are suitable as a basis for attaching a gutter. This option is very reliable on large area roofs, but the disadvantage of this method is that it can be used before the roof is laid. In addition, the pitch of the rafters should not exceed 60 cm.
It is possible to fasten the gutter to the profiled sheet, especially since the service life of this roof reaches 30 years.
Attaching the gutter to the eaves is suitable for metal-tiled or onduline roofs. Compliance with the rafter pitch of 0.6 m remains relevant here as well.
The gutter is fastened to the wall when there is no frontal board, rafters, etc. Then metal crutches are driven into the wall, specially designed for installing gutters with studs.
Fastening a gutter to sandwich panels is one of the most difficult ways to install a drainage system, and also has a more expensive cost. To attach the gutter to this type of roofing, cut the insulation material under the top panel skin. Then you need to push the bar and attach it to the panel below. Hooks are installed on the bar itself, where the gutters of the drainage system are subsequently inserted.

People with low incomes are always interested in how to properly install gutters on a slate roof.

In this case, the method of attaching the gutter to the front board will help. At the same time, do not forget to observe the slope of the gutter by 1 m, following the established rules of SNIP.

There is a more original way, but for this you need to study the instructions on how to properly install gutters made of galvanized steel, especially since, to reduce the cost of work, you can make gutters from galvanized sheets yourself. All we need to do is cut strips 0.2-0.3 m wide of the required length. Then, with a hammer, give the gutters a U-shape and install them under the slate. It is advisable to try to create a gutter slope so that it is 1 linear meter in 5 mm. At the drain points, according to the Japanese method, chains can be installed along which water will flow without splashing or spilling. And if the chains are also decorated, then the drainage system will be original in all respects.

Such an important architectural element of the roof structure, which is the drainage system, must be thought out at the design stage. Moreover, modern SNiP recommend installing the system even before installing the roof covering. However, in reality, not everything is so smooth.

Sometimes circumstances force you to install a gutter system if the roof is already ready. Accordingly, it will not be superfluous to learn how to install gutters if the roof is already covered.

In what cases the drain is installed during finishing work

There are several situations when such an installation is necessary:

You can also try another option for fixing the hooks to the rafters. The brackets are fixed to the side edge of the rafter. The mounting surface of the holders is bent into a plane horizontally (this operation can also be performed independently). This type of installation is possible only when the cross section of the rafters is large enough, for example, 12 or 15 * 5 cm. When fixing the brackets, it is important to take into account that the roof covering should cover the gutter by half or a third of its width. Then you can not be afraid that as a result of heavy precipitation, water will overflow over the edges of the gutter.

Obviously, when mounting the brackets on the side face of the rafter, a preliminary fitting is required. In the process of fitting, it will just become clear whether such an installation option is possible.

Frontal board - a solid foundation

For those who are interested in how, if the roof is already covered, it is important to know that the simplest installation option is a frontal board.

On a note

It can be easily decorated, and the board will look like an independent detail of the roof exterior.

Long holders are used if the wind board has a sufficiently large width. Such brackets are made of metal, and the leg of the holder and the hook have the same width. Fixation to the board is carried out through the holes provided on the mounting platform, which is located on the leg.
Short brackets can be used not only when mounting on a windboard, like long ones, but also walls and rafter ends. True, at the same time, the reliability of the fastening is questionable, since the fasteners are located along the wood fibers.

Pick up short hooks made of the same material. It is also desirable to fix them on metal. Light weight allows you to fix them to a wooden windboard without any difficulties.

Special mention is made of adjustable brackets equipped with a special device. It shifts one part of the bracket relative to the other, setting the slope of the holder location, that is, the angle that forms the hook and the base for the fasteners. To get the desired angle, just tighten the adjustment screws. Such brackets are almost indispensable for use in difficult conditions, for example, if the windboard is tilted.

When installing individual holders, to begin with, a straight line is beaten off on the windboard, observing the slope within three to five mm / linear. m. in the direction of the drain funnel. Stepping back from the edge of the end part of the wind board (the indent is approximately 50 - 100 mm), mark the place of fixation of the first bracket. After that, on the entire line, the installation locations of the holders are marked with a step of no more than 0.6 m (in some cases, even a larger step is acceptable, which is necessarily noted in the instructions). Having completed the markup, proceed to the installation of brackets.

A sufficient width of the roof overhang allows the use of another, very convenient option for installing gutters. Special short holders are fixed on a common metal guide profile. The latter, in turn, is fixed either on the wall of the house or on the wind board through the special holes provided on it. When fastening, the guide is immediately given the required slope. Thus, when installing the holders, there is no need to measure their place in height.

After that, brackets are threaded from its side and advanced along the guide, placing them with the required step. It is noteworthy that such holders do not need to be fixed, since they “sit” quite firmly in the profile. Undoubtedly, this is another advantage of such a mounting system.

"Crutches" as a basis

Sometimes there is no wind board in the roof structure at all. Then they resort to the help of special "crutches" made of metal or wood, fixed in the wall. The gutters are attached directly to the "crutches" on studs or bars.

Fastening on the edge of the roof

This method is justified when fixing the drainage system from the roofs along its eaves. This option is suitable for almost any roofing material. The brackets are fastened using clamps (as special clamps are called).

If the system is fixed to the wave material, then the holders are attached either to the lower or the upper point of its wave. At the same time, it is desirable to lay rubber gaskets under the legs of the metal clamps on both sides of the roofing sheet. Thus, two tasks can be solved at once: slightly reduce the load and soften the compression on the sheet.

Additional brackets

When using the above option for installing gutters, you can also use short hooks, but with one condition. In addition to them, L-shaped metal brackets are needed. Their long part is fixed on the side edge of the rafter. As for the curved shelf with a mounting platform on short parts, a short PVC holder is fixed on it. It is worth noting that in some cases this is the only way to fix the holders on the previously laid roof without damaging it. For example, if the roof protrudes beyond the ends of the rafters on the cornice overhang of about 12–15 cm.

invisible brackets

The construction market also offers brackets that hold the gutter from above, in contrast to the traditional version from below. They are completely invisible once installed. Such holders are mounted at a distance of 400 - 700 mm between them. If this condition is violated, there is a high probability of significant deformation of the gutter, caused by the impact of a significant load of the gravity of ice or snow.

Brackets that are used when installing to the crate, or from above to the rafters, must first be bent. The holder is thus given the desired shape, which subsequently allows it to be perfectly adjusted to the slope of the slope.

Pull-up mount

Hanging mount is less popular than the above options. However, in some cases, such a construction is the only possible way. This type of bracket has special bends. During installation, one of them is put on the front edge of the gutter, while the second is hooked to the back. The holder is equipped with a sleeve having an internal thread. The fastener is screwed into the wall or windboard through the bushing and the upper section of the gutter wall.

How to install roof gutters : other possible ways

Mansard-type roof brackets can be fixed directly to the walls after careful measurements and subsequent marking.
On a filing of soffits of the required width, the brackets are fixed to L-shaped metal profiles, which are screwed to the sheathing of soffits.
In the absence of a frontal board, or if the soffit is narrow enough, special metal pins with a pointed end are used. They can be straight or L-shaped. A hole of a suitable diameter is pre-drilled in a brickwork or concrete wall and filled with concrete mortar, then a pin is driven in. After the mortar has completely set, installation of the gutters can begin.

On a note

When marking the location of the pins, the necessary slope in the direction of the funnel of the drainage system must be ensured.

The purpose of the roof over the house does not need to be explained. One of the functions is to protect the attic or attic from precipitation, i.e. from water leakage. But, flowing down the slopes of the roof, water inevitably falls on the walls and foundation. As a result, the load-bearing elements of the building structure are destroyed very quickly.

The destructive effect of water can be avoided by installing a roof drainage system. Before we start the master class on installing gutters, a little theory.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage system has two signs of classification, which determine the technology of its installation:

1. According to the method of manufacture - home-made, industrial.

Handicraft production, i.e. homemade gutter from the roof. Facts such as the ability to make a beautiful and unusual gutter with your own hands speak in favor of this system. Making a homemade system does not involve significant costs. In addition, it can be mounted according to a user-friendly scheme. The undoubted disadvantage is the need for constant maintenance, since gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, which quickly rots. Among the conditional shortcomings are the difficulty of docking individual elements and a mediocre appearance.

Factory production (factory). This method involves maintaining all standards and parameters. That is, if necessary, you can easily join different elements from different supplies of the same manufacturer.

2. According to the material used - plastic, metal.

According to the installation method, an adhesive system is distinguished (installation takes place using glue) and glueless (installation on sealing rubber bands).

Advantages of plastic gutters:

immunity to ultraviolet. High-quality plastic drainage system will not burn out during the entire period of operation;

not subject to corrosion;

the adhesive system does not require maintenance, since the “cold welding” method is used, during which the elements are connected at the molecular level;

strength;

light weight;

operating temperature -40°С +70°С;

ease of installation;

the presence of different colors;

a wide variety of components allows you to create a drainage system of the desired configuration, which makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

plastic can be destroyed by mechanical stress. Therefore, such systems cannot be installed on high-rise buildings. The plastic drainage system is mounted only on a low-rise private house;

repair failure. A destroyed element cannot be restored;

a plastic drainage system with sealing rubber bands requires periodic replacement of seals, which entails disassembly / assembly of elements;

high coefficient of linear expansion.

The gutter system from a metal profile has several varieties: galvanized, copper, galvanized with a polymer coating (painted). The main difference between them is the cost and duration of operation. The appearance is shown in the photo.

Advantages of metal gutters:

strength;

reliability;

withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences;

do not support combustion;

operating temperature -60°С +130°С;

dimensional stability.

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

high price;

significant weight of the entire system;

complexity of installation;

small selection of colors;

the appearance of rust when the protective layer is damaged (an exception is a copper drainage system);

a small number of elements makes it suitable only for installation on roofs with angles of 90°.

Which drainage system is better, plastic or metal, it is difficult to answer unambiguously, it all depends on the specific operating conditions and other factors. In any case, the choice of a drainage system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

From the position of this classification, we will consider how to properly mount the drainage system with our own hands.

Installation of a drainage system - instructions

Like any construction process, the technology of installing gutters includes the selection of a system, material and calculations.

There are several options for drainage systems, depending on their throughput. For example, 100/75, 125/90, 150/110. This marking shows the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and gutter. Visually, the system of circular section 125/100 and square section is in the photo.

Advice. Each manufacturer has its own dimensions of gutters, pipes. Their configuration is also different. Therefore, do not even try to dock systems from different manufacturers.

Such a variety of systems is necessary so that each user can choose the one that suits his needs.

Choosing a drainage system

To choose the right water drainage system you need:

get acquainted with the maximum level of precipitation in your area;

calculate the area of the slope (S). Not all, but the largest in size. It is its size that will determine the choice of gutter

S \u003d (A + B / 2) x C

Nuance. For flat roofs (the slope angle does not exceed 10°), the formula takes the form
S = A x C

Based on these measurements, select the desired system in the table.

After the system is selected, you need to determine the type and calculate the amount of materials. To do this, we will prepare drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions. They will simplify the calculation and then the installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

We will illustrate, using the example of a house, how to calculate the amount of materials for installing a drainage system.

Gutter gutter - semicircular (semicircular section) and rectangular (rectangular section).

Designed to collect precipitation (rain and melt water) from the roof.

The length of the gutter is 3-4 m. It is fixed with the help of hooks and brackets, which are installed in steps of 60-90 cm, ensuring that the slope of the gutter is at least 1 cm for every 3-4 meters.

Their number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the base of the roof. That is, the length of all surfaces on which the gutter will be mounted. Gutter dimensions - sold by the piece in 3 and 4 m.p.

For a house the size of our example, you will need 3-meter gutters - 10 pcs. 4 meters - 1 pc.

Nuance. Round all dimensions to the nearest whole gutter length. The fewer connections, the easier, more reliable and cheaper the installation will end up.

Gutter angles (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

The corner gutter is designed to change the direction (distribution) of water flows. Mounting method: mounted on the outer and inner corners of the roof.

We will need 4 outside corners and 2 inside corners, all 90 degrees.

If a house or cottage has sharp or obtuse corners, you need to choose the system in which such corners exist.

Advice. A variety of angles can be made from a plastic gutter by cutting out part of the gutter and connecting the halves at the right angle. Parts are connected using glue - cold welding.

Gutter funnels, connectors, gutter plugs.

For our example - 4 funnels, 2 plugs. Connectors can be - 5 or 17. Depending on the features of the installation of a particular system. In most drainage systems, corners are fastened directly to the gutter. But in some - with the use of a connector.

In drainage systems where installation is carried out with the use of glue, conventional connectors and expansion joints should be used.

Compensatory is installed with a roof length of more than 8 r.m. Its installation is carried out without the use of glue. Such a connector is designed to compensate for the linear expansion of the gutter during heating / cooling. For our example, 4 regular connectors and one compensating one would be required.

Advice. One funnel receives water from 10 m.p. gutters. If the length of the wall is longer - you need to put two funnels. In our example, we did just that. In this case, the distance between two adjacent funnels cannot exceed 20 m.p.

Gutter hooks.

Hooks can be long or short. The first are designed to hang the gutter on the rafters and are attached before the installation of the roofing material. The second (short) ones are used for attaching the gutter to the frontal board, respectively, it is possible to install it on a finished roof, i.e. covered with roofing material.

The gutter fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. At the same time, installation is mandatory near corners, funnels, plugs and at junctions. In our example - 68 hooks.

Downspouts (for vertical drain), pipe fittings/brackets.

The pipe can be round and rectangular. Designed for vertical water flow.

The pipe bracket is designed to fix the pipe to the wall. According to the installation method, they distinguish between “on a stone” (for fixing on a brick, stone or concrete wall. Fixing with hardware) and “on a tree” (for fixing on wooden walls (beam, log, OSB). Fixing with self-tapping screws).

The number of pipes is determined by the number of funnels. In our example, there are 4 funnels, which means there are also 4 pipe installation sites. their length is equal to the total length of all walls along which the installation is planned. Pipes are also sold in lengths of 3 and 4 m. You need to round up, since the joints on the pipe are also undesirable. Those. if you have a house height of 3.5 m, you need to buy a 4 m pipe. 0.5 will go to waste or for other needs.

Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. At the same time, their installation near the knees is mandatory.

Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

If the design of the house is similar to that shown in the photo, then for each riser (we have 4 of them) we need two universal elbows (8 in total) and one drain (4 in total).

Distance L is measured as shown in the figure.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Nuance. makes some adjustments to the calculation of the drainage system. The height of the attic wall affects the number and installation of gutters. The diagrams below show what needs to be taken into account when calculating.

Installation of a drainage system made of plastic (PVC)

1. Installation of drain funnels (roofing, storm, water intake) on the roof.

The gutter hooks closest to the funnel are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as holders.

Advice. The angle of inclination with respect to the funnel is 2° or 3-4 mm. by 1 m. It is convenient to check the slope with the help of a nylon thread.

With a wall length of 10 to 20 meters, it is more advisable to install the gutter in the following ways:

Simple slope (straight) - the funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
Double slope: "from the middle" or "towards the middle."

In the first case, the middle gutter is at the highest point, and the water moves to the funnels located at the corners of the building. In the second case, two extreme gutters are at the highest point and the water moves to a funnel located in the middle between them. If the length of the gutter exceeds 22 meters, three funnels or a more powerful system are installed.

3. Mounting of the common and compensatory gutter connector (if necessary).

Gutter connectors are installed between the brackets. Equal distance from them.

4. Cut the gutter into blanks of the desired length. It is desirable to clean the place of the cut.

5. Connection of gutters with a funnel. The gutter is laid on brackets adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.

The hole for the funnel can be drilled in the right place of the gutter using a crown.

Some manufacturers label funnels in such a way as to simplify installation. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side of the funnel. After checking the temperature overboard, the chute is set at the desired level.

In adhesive systems, the funnel is one of the elements that does not use adhesive when installing.

If provided, at the junction of the gutter and funnel, a sealing gum is installed.

When laying the gutter, the connector must be smeared with glue or sealed with an elastic band.

The compensation connector is mounted without the use of glue.

Nuance. In order for the water to flow in a given direction, it is better to make a “teardrop” at the end of the drain pipe.

7. Installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out according to the same scheme.

Both the corner and the plug are mounted using glue or sealing rubber bands.

8. Fastening clamps and installation of downpipes.

At the calculated distance, holes are drilled for fastening the clamp.

The installation of the pipe begins with the installation of the elbow (if necessary) or the pipe in the funnel.

Glue or rubber seal is required.

Nuance. The lower pipe is inserted into the upper one with a gap of 2 mm. (linear expansion compensation).

The pipe is attached to the wall with a clamp. Which is installed in pre-drilled holes.

If necessary, a system of splitters (tees) is mounted.

The ebb must be mounted so that the water from it does not destroy the foundation of the house. For example, an outflow diverts water into a drainage system channel or directly into a drainage well.