How to trim a door beautifully. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine. Metal door trim

Sooner or later there comes a time when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it’s better to get by cosmetic repairs, especially since covering the door with finishing material will cost much less.

If you follow the technology, it will not be possible to sheathe the doors yourself. a lot of work. Let's consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of choosing materials for them.

Choosing material

The range of finishing materials for doors is large and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest you familiarize yourself with brief characteristics the most popular of them.

Vinyl leather

Vinyl leather is an economical alternative to genuine leather

This material is one of the varieties of artificial leather. It is a film applied on top of some fibrous web. The basis for vinyl artificial leather can be paper, knitwear or other fabric, which is usually impregnated with special polymer compounds to increase strength.

The material can have different colors and textures; moreover, it has an affordable price and is practical to use. Therefore, vinyl leather cladding is a good substitute for natural, very expensive material.

Lining

Lining is slats made of wood, MDF or plastic, equipped with special grooves that make it easy to assemble them into a single sheet. It is suitable for finishing both wooden and metal structures, but installing it on the latter is much more difficult.

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material that is resistant to external influences, for example, larch. A more budget-friendly option is plastic, which also withstands moisture and is not subject to corrosion and rotting. But you need to take into account that such panels can fade in the sun, so covering doors with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sunlight.

Lining made of wooden slats

Faux leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that replicates the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

strength;
efficiency;
easy care.

The disadvantage is sensitivity to temperature changes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thereby shortens the service life of the coating.

Leatherette

The name of this material comes from the Greek word “derma”, which means skin. In construction terminology, leatherette is usually called imitation leather. Surely many have heard about him. But why is this material so popular?

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works is explained by its positive qualities, such as:

Leatherette is also easy to process and install, which allows you to carry out work even without special skills. An additional advantage of this coating is vapor permeability, which means that the door under the skin will be able to “breathe”, which means that the wood underneath will not become damp and moldy.

Genuine Leather

A door upholstered in genuine leather looks luxurious and emphasizes the wealth of the owners, which is valued in some circles of society. The following also speaks in favor of leather covering:

durability of the material;
good sound insulation;
additional protection against heat leakage.

Leather is the epitome of luxury

But the price of such upholstery will be many times higher than that of various substitutes. Another nuance that should be taken into account is the need for careful skin care using special means to maintain its elasticity.

PVC film

PVC film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing - very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. This film is sold in rolls and is a good way to update the surface of a metal or plastic door. Its main advantages:

low maintenance requirements;
low price;
simple installation;
moisture resistance;
no damage during installation on the surface to be glued.

True, there are several disadvantages - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and relatively short term services.

PVC film allows you to imitate any material

The listed materials are the most commonly used for upholstery and among them there will certainly be a solution suitable for your home. Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made. Considering that correct installation coating is no less important than the correct choice of material; below we will consider several methods of covering metal and wooden doors using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leatherette upholstery

So, how to cover a door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wooden and metal structures, however, the preparation stage and necessary tools in both cases almost identical.

Preparation for upholstery

Door dismantling

To install the coating yourself, you will need the following tools:

sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
industrial stapler;
hammer;
pliers;
screwdriver;
brush.

Before starting work, you will need to remove all fittings from the door (peephole, handles, lock). Then the structure is removed from the hinges and inspected for any defects; if any are found, they must be eliminated.

Next, the leatherette needs to be cut to the size of the door, making an allowance of 10-15 cm on all sides. In addition, you cannot do without cushioning material, which will give the upholstery the required volume. If the door is not located inside the dressing room, but goes out onto the street, then it is advisable to take care of its insulation. This function can be performed following materials:

isolon tape – has a long service life (about 70 years), is effective, but quite expensive;
foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention properties;
batting - service life is 30 years, has good performance, but makes the door structure somewhat heavier.

Wooden door trim

Securing material around the perimeter

The upholstery process begins with laying it on the prepared door leaf insulation cut to fit the structure. The material must be secured using a construction stapler or nails; before doing this, you should lubricate the surface of the door with glue for a more durable fixation.

Next comes the crucial stage of attaching the upholstery. To do this, it is better to use special decorative nails, matched to the color of leatherette or the rest of the door fittings. The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap on all sides is the same. Then the edges are folded inward, ensuring that the fabric is evenly folded and tensioned. Now all that remains is to fix the leatherette with nails at equal intervals around the perimeter of the door leaf.

Once the fabric is securely attached, you can add a pattern to the cover using decorative tape and upholstery nails. Ready-made pattern diagrams are given below, but you can also invent something new, focusing on your taste and imagination.

Schemes decorative fastening leatherette

Metal door trim

Upholstery metal door It is produced somewhat differently, but this process is even simpler than in the case of wood. After all, you won’t have to nail leatherette to the metal, and this part of the work is the most labor-intensive.
After preparing the canvas, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from its hinges and placed in a horizontal position. The insulation is attached to the metal using glue, taking care to lay it correctly the first time to avoid further displacement.

Then the leatherette itself (part of the material with an overlap) is attached to the ends of the door, lubricated with glue. It is better to start from the top, then fix the material from the side of the hinges and the lock, and complete the installation with the bottom end. It is important to avoid wrinkles and distortions.

After the glue has dried, use a sharp utility knife to remove excess material and reinstall the fittings. When cutting holes for door handles, locks, etc., do not forget that the slots should be smaller than the dimensions of the fittings. Otherwise, the holes may become noticeable and spoil the appearance of the structure. At this point, the work is completed, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat retention in the house.

Finished design

Door trim with clapboard

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update a door structure is to make doors from clapboard with your own hands. Where to start? For wood panels The following advice is relevant: if finishing material was stored outside your home, but will be used for interior lining, then a few hours before the start of work it is worth bringing it inside the room where finishing is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to humidity and temperature.

Wooden door

To cover a wooden door you will need the following materials and tools:

panels made of selected material;
measuring instruments (tape tape, level);
pencil;
suitable cutting tool;
screwdriver;
plane and sandpaper;
screws or nails;
varnish and brushes.

Standard lining

The preparatory work is similar to that performed when covering with leatherette. The door leaf will also need to be dismantled, cleaned and the fittings removed. Then you need to decide on the direction of the cladding - it will be horizontal or vertical.

The lining begins to be installed from the bottom edge of the door, checking the accuracy of its location with a level. It is better to fasten the material with special finishing nails, which will stand out less against the background of the coating, but you can also use self-tapping screws.

Panels can be attached in different ways

During installation, the panels are fastened tightly, inserting each subsequent one into the connector of the previous one, and the sides are covered with special corners. After completing the main work, the lining can be opened with varnish. Then, after waiting for it to dry completely, the fittings are installed on the door, and the structure itself is returned to its place.

Metal door with clapboard trim

Metal doors covered with clapboard will be a little more difficult to make due to the strength of the metal. To attach the panels you will have to build wooden frame, attached to the door structure, and then install the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

bars or slats made of wood;
drill and screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
saw;
pencil and tape measure.

Frame installation

The slats need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them to suit the diameter of the screws, attach the frame components to the surface of the door and apply marks to the metal through these holes. In designated places metal structure will also need to be drilled.

Next, the frame elements are attached to the door leaf with self-tapping screws. The resulting structure can perform another function - serve as a basis for laying insulation. If you want to reduce heat loss, the selected thermal insulation material is placed between the frame slats.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are installed identically to the method described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Panels made of lining are a good solution for finishing and at the same time insulating the door

Decorating a door is a fascinating and creative process, but a responsible one. However, if you have a desire to try yourself in this matter, do not hesitate. A serious approach and a little training before starting finishing work will allow you to turn your ideas into reality, and the resulting result will be a reason to be proud.

Of course, today, if the front door has lost its former attractiveness, the issue can be resolved radically - simply replace it. Fortunately, gone are the days when this procedure was really a problem due to the total shortage of absolutely everything. But... Firstly, not everyone wants to part with their good-quality door, even if it has already dried out and allows all sounds and smells to pass through. Secondly, not everyone can afford to install a new one. What to do in this case? Breathe a second life into it - upholster the door with dermantine! Do it yourself or invite a specialist. True, the first option is preferable, if only because it will allow you to save quite a significant amount. And this, you see, is a compelling argument. Therefore, arm yourself with materials, tools and knowledge on how to upholster a door with dermantine. And don't be scared. Even if you've only held a hammer a couple of times in your entire life, everything will work out! The process is very simple, you will not have any difficulties.

So let's begin. We offer you a master class on the topic: “How to upholster a door with dermantine.” Study, and then get to work with full confidence in your abilities.

All about dermantine

But first, you need to say a few words about the upholstery material itself, which, by the way, has been used to update doors for a very long time. It is considered a type of artificial leather, but is a more budget-friendly option. The back side of it is and the front side is a layer of nitrocellulose.

If we talk about its performance characteristics, it should be noted that dermantine is distinguished by its strength, durability, ease of care, and more than affordable cost. In addition, there is such a variety of colors and textures on sale that if you decide to upholster a door with dermantine yourself, you will not have any problems with the choice. On the contrary, you can choose such an interesting version of this material that your front door will look no worse, if not better, than your neighbor’s expensive, custom-made one.

What you will need

We sorted out the upholstery. But since it is necessary to upholster a door with dermantine using insulation - a special lining material, then you need to stock up on them too. Typically, either foam rubber or special batting is used for these purposes. As for the amount of material required, both insulation and dermantin need to be purchased according to the size of your door (taking into account seam allowances - ten to twelve centimeters on each side).

You will also need furniture nails. They are usually produced with metal caps, which can be made in various colors and stylized as silver, gold or bronze. If desired, you can also find carnations whose caps are covered with dermantine. You also need to purchase metal corners (four pieces) and PVA glue.

How to cover a door with dermantine without tools? No way! Therefore, stock up on a screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer, stapler and scissors. We can begin.

Preparatory stage

The door, of course, will have to be removed from its hinges. Then remove - if any - all old upholstery. Along the way, get rid of everything that could interfere with the update process: remove the lock, take out the peephole, hinges. If there are any defects on the door leaf, eliminate them. When the surface is completely prepared, you can proceed to the main stage.

How to cover a door with dermantine

Free up space in the room or hallway, place two stools, and place a door on them. Screw it at the corners. They will make your structure more durable. Cut the insulation according to the size, spread it with glue and glue the foam rubber or batting. In order not to wait for the glue to dry, grab the material in several places with a stapler. Then lay a piece of dermantin on the insulation, so that there are equal seam allowances on each side. And then tuck the edges inward, under the insulation, forming a small roll and at the same time nailing them. Algorithm of actions: we start from the top edge, then fasten the left and right sides, the bottom is at the very end. When fixing the roller, be sure to ensure that its thickness is uniform. And be sure to drive the nails at the same distance from each other, otherwise your door is unlikely to look neat.

That's probably all. At this point, the master class “How to cover a wooden door with dermantine” can be considered complete. But it is still necessary to mention one small detail, thanks to which the front door to your apartment will become truly exclusive.

Decorative finishing

To decorate the surface of the updated door, you can use special braid or cords. A pattern is laid out from them in the center or over the entire surface, and then secured in the right places with nails. And you can “depict” whatever your heart desires: a grid, vignettes, diamonds. This is as your imagination will tell you.

That's all it really is now. You can not only teach everyone with a clear conscience how to properly upholster a door with dermantine, but also demonstrate the result.

Material such as dermantine is very popular due to its technical properties and ease of maintenance. Thus, dermantine is able to withstand harsh conditions of cold and moisture, is stable and durable, easy to clean and can withstand high temperatures. Dermantin is also known because of its low cost. One of the disadvantages is the impossibility of restoring the material: despite the resistance to mechanical stress, after damage to any area, the entire panel will need to be replaced, because the door will lose its aesthetic appearance even after gluing the tears.

A step-by-step guide to upholstering iron and other doors with dermantine

Upholstering doors with dermantine is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate and insulate a home, which begins with the entrance to a house or apartment.

To perform this work you will need knowledge of some of the features of door trim. Namely: the properties and characteristics of dermantine, the lining material used, tools for working with wood or metal, decorative, fastening elements and more.

Dermantin (from the ancient Greek leather) is a type of artificial leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Dermantin for door upholstery is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive natural leather, not inferior to it in terms of individual characteristics. It is also used for furniture upholstery, book elements, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantin is a finishing material that has the following advantages:

Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to impact various microorganisms;
Moisture-resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of lining material, protecting it from the appearance of mold and unpleasant odors;
Relatively durable material that can last ten years with proper care;
Resistant to abrasion and chemical agents (acids and alkalis);
Easy to wash and clean with conventional detergents: soap and powder;
Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures down to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of dermantine).

Despite all the positive properties of dermantine, many are not satisfied with its disadvantages, namely: if the slightest damage (cut or tear) occurs, the leatherette cannot be repaired and a separate part cannot be replaced, thus requiring complete door upholstery with dermantine.

When burning, leatherette releases harmful substances, unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is flammable and fire hazardous. These disadvantages are not so important if you consider that dermantine has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

The distinctive properties of dermantine include the fact that the leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there are enough on the market wide choice types of material colors from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics should you consider when buying leatherette? When purchasing dermantine for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches and whether it forms cracks when stretched. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and better yet 50,000 cycles. The higher the number of cycles, the more resistant the fabric is to abrasion.

Dermantin must be resistant to kinks from bending the material and scratches. Also consider the UV resistance characteristics of dermantine if your door is exposed to direct sunlight most of the time.

The surface of leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. Pay attention to the color scheme artificial turf, what color and texture will best harmonize with the design of handles and hinges, peepholes and other fittings.

Plain and decorative upholstery

When choosing upholstery material in a store, take into account the type of door upholstery. There are two types of screeds: regular and decorative.

Conventional upholstery involves simply finishing the door leaf with a smooth sheet of leatherette, which is attached to the base only at the edges. A decorative tape is also attached around the perimeter, attached to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage door upholstery with dermantine is a kind of finishing performed on a base made of wood or MDF panels nailed to the door leaf.

First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then fixed in certain places with buttons or nails with leather heads. In this case, the pattern on the button cloth can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the room.

Trimming elements for a wooden door: rollers, backing material, nails

When preparing for reupholstery, it is important to know about the main materials and elements that make up the process of covering the door.

Rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantine, rollers are used. A roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube of lining and dermantine, nailed along the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The placement method depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed on the back side of the entrance to the house. The roller should extend a few millimeters beyond the box. In this case, the distance between the canvas and the roller should be such that the roller “slows down” the opening of the door and it slams with little force.

Door upholstery with dermantin is carried out without a roller only in one case: if the metal structure is installed without special bars that allow the rollers to be attached to them.

Lining material

The lining for upholstery is most often foam rubber or isolon with the addition of batting. It is possible to use one batting or padding polyester. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface changes. It has better sound insulation properties than batting and synthetic winterizer, and isolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation.

Izolon is a new lining material made of polyethylene, more expensive, but also more advanced. He doesn't miss cold air and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Door upholstery with dermantine is done using special nails with wide heads. Nails for sheathing can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails come in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made by hand, so their cost may be slightly higher than regular ones. In addition, there are special decorative nails that serve as decoration for doors.

To give the door leaf a beautiful and modern look, you don’t need to spend huge sums on paying reupholstery specialists. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is easy and simple, you only need proper preparation doors to the banner and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for reupholstery

How to determine the size of the material required for door upholstery with dermantine, taking into account the size of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of the door plus 15 cm on each side.

The rollers require one cut 14-15 cm wide and a length equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut to fit the width of the door leaf. The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outward (all four sides are upholstered). Foam rubber or isolon is cut out the size of the door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's also count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For standard door You may need about 50-60 pieces, excluding the design.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors, upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. You will need at least 100 ml of glue.

Door trim technology

We free the door from everything unnecessary: handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only get in the way. The methods of attaching leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of the door.

Tree

We make rollers: we fix strips of leatherette face down directly on the door using a stapler. We lay the insulation tubes and tuck them in, covering the foam rubber. We hammer it in with a stapler or nails. In the lower part of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply rub out where it touches the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fasten the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the likelihood that the material will warp will be reduced to zero). We attach the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We attach batting to the layer of foam rubber (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fasten the dermantine: first we turn the top 6-8 cm and fix it with nails, making sure that no folds or creases form. Then, straightening it, we stretch it along the sides and hammer it with nails around the perimeter of the door. Properly stretched material does not wrinkle or form folds. The distances between nails are maximum 10 cm, minimum 5 cm.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat base, for example, on four stools. Apply glue around the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam to the surface and leave to dry slightly.

Then they glue the main piece of leatherette starting from the top, just like with a wooden structure, moving to the sides and ending at the bottom.

Source: http://o-dveryah.ru/remont/obivka-dermantinom/

Covering the door with dermantine

If you want to update the entrance to your home without significant expenses, there is an excellent way out of the situation - upholstering the door with dermantine yourself.

It is actually very simple to do this work, but you must first clarify all the nuances. Depending on the material from which the door leaf is made and the direction in which the door opens, there are certain differences in the principle of attaching the new upholstery.

Covering with dermantine is a great way to update a door

Preparatory work

Among all the things that can be used to cover an old wooden or metal door, dermantin is certainly the best option; it is quite affordable, looks good and is easy to work with.

First of all, you need to purchase everything necessary materials:

dermantin (should be 10 cm larger than the door leaf on each side);
lining material;
furniture nails;
thin decorative cord;
glue;
furniture stapler.

It is better to remove the door leaf from the hinges, it will be easier to work with. Then remove all the fittings, remove the old covering and clean the door of dust and grease.

In order to cover the door with dermantine as correctly as possible, you need to pay attention to the direction in which it opens, this is necessary in order to use the required number of rollers in each case, if outward, you need four pieces for each side, inward, three are enough. These rollers will contribute to better insulation of the opening.

Upholstery front door carries a high mechanical load - this must be taken into account when selecting dermantine

For each roller you will need a strip of dermantine 10-15 cm wide and a piece of lining, for example synthetic padding. Fasten one edge of the strip along one side of the door, face down, then roll the padding polyester with a roller and wrap it with the other end of the dermantine. The work can be done using a stapler, nails or glue in the case of a metal sheet.

Fastening the lining material

Before sheathing the front door with dermantine, you should take care of its heat and sound insulation.

If you use foam rubber, the effect will be minimal, it is better to purchase more modern material– isolon, it is quite dense and copes well with these tasks. The lining should completely cover the door leaf; on the hinge side, when swinging outward, a small indentation should be left.

Foam rubber is most often used as a lining material.

If you are working with a wooden door, the lining is secured using furniture stapler, placing staples every 15-20 cm around the perimeter of the canvas. If you need to sheathe a metal door, the panel is covered with a layer of glue, insulation is laid on top and carefully pressed.

Working with dermantine

Now let's figure out how to cover a metal door directly with dermantine. To neatly decorate the edges, you need to tuck the dermantine and use staples to secure its edge from the inside, then apply glue to the hem, the edge of the material and press it. You need to move gradually in one direction.

Door upholstery is done using the simplest tools

Upholstering a wooden door with dermantine with your own hands is much easier - we fold the edges of the material and nail it with furniture nails with a wide head in increments of 10-15 cm.

When performing this work, it is necessary to ensure that the places where the insulation rollers are attached do not peek out from under the folded edge of the dermantine; in addition, you need to step back a few millimeters from the edge so that the new upholstery does not interfere with the free movement of the canvas.

Final design

The last stage is the installation of fittings. In the new upholstery, you need to make holes that are slightly smaller than the size of the holes in the fabric; this is very simple, since they can be easily felt through the dermantine and the backing.

Reinstall the handle and lock door peephole, loops. Then you can begin installing the canvas in the opening, place it on the hinges and you can enjoy the work done.

To make the final result look a little more interesting, you can not just sheathe the front door from the inside, but add several shaped elements to its surface. To do this, you can use the remaining furniture nails.

Carefully mark the places for their installation on the surface of the dermantine; after you hammer in the nails, you can tuck a decorative cord under them. The dermantine and soft lining will be transformed: the contours will be pressed through and a peculiar pattern will appear on the surface of the door. Usually diamonds are made this way, but other patterns can be used.

It is easiest to work with a wooden door, but with a sufficiently thick and dense layer of substrate, you can make such decor on iron door. To do this, you need to secure nails or buttons with a strong thread on the reverse side before sheathing the fabric, connecting foam rubber and dermantin.

Covering a door with dermantine yourself is quite simple and interesting, and besides, it allows you not only to save on buying a new door, but also gives you a unique opportunity to create your own original version of the finish. At correct execution it will look no worse than the industrial version.

Source: http://dvervdome.ru/remont/obivka-dveri-dermantinom.html

Features of door upholstery with MDF panels and dermantine step by step

A major overhaul of a worn metal door is possible in several finishing options. In this case, door upholstery is most often chosen, especially if we are talking about economy class models.

Many owners decide to sheathe an iron door on their own. An additional decorative layer will also provide good sound insulation. How the repair will be carried out depends primarily on the material of the canvas and the exposure of the structure to the environment.

Finishing the front door using MDF

The most common type of finishing of entrance doors is “tuning” with MDF panels. This material is made of wood fiber and is divided into:

Painted MDF. It is better not to use metal entrance doors for finishing, as such panels are no different high properties strength. It is better to use MDF panels of this type for finishing from the inside.
Laminated panels. Quite durable and moisture-resistant fabrics. The smooth surface completely imitates natural wood. It has moderate strength properties and is resistant to moisture. Such panels can also be used to cover the opening.
Veneered MDF. This upholstery for metal doors is the highest quality and most durable option. The most commonly used veneers are oak or birch. In order not to increase the cost of the canvas, panels made from expensive types of wood are rarely used: beech, mahogany or ash.

When repairing a door with MDF panels, you need to prepare not only the main material, but also a number of additional ones, including for cleaning and removing grease from the metal surface.

If you plan to cover the opening, you also need to prepare wooden lintels to which the MDF strips will be attached.

The following tools should be prepared in advance: a hammer, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws for fastening the blade.

Installation work

Before you begin installation, you need to be prepared for the fact that after the door trim is replaced, it will become wider. The lock, ties and handles will need to be replaced. The opening may need to be adjusted a little.

The installation process of MDF panels is divided into several main stages:

Preliminary preparation surfaces. Before you practice MDF fastening Complete cleaning and degreasing is carried out. To improve the quality of adhesion of the canvas and panels, painting and pasting with vinyl film is recommended.
When the preparation process is completed, the doors are upholstered with panels. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws into holes at intervals of 10-12 centimeters. To ensure that the screw heads do not stand out on the surface, a special countersink is made.
First, the inner lining is attached to the self-tapping screws, and the outer lining is attached above it. If the doors are opened inside the home, then the fastening of the panels is carried out in the reverse order.

The repair is completed with MDF panels and the installation of door hardware. These are locks, handles, etc.

When the installation is completed, all that remains is to check the functionality of the doors and all structural elements.

Having finished with the door, you can cover the opening with panels, both from the inside and outside the room, if the quality of the material allows it.

Features of dermantine upholstery and choice of material

A material such as dermantine is resistant to any temperature changes.
While breathable, the material has the property of repelling moisture.
Resistance to tearing and damage allows dermantine upholstery to last for a long time.
Easy to care for. After a certain period, only light treatment with a special impregnation is required. Any contamination can be easily removed with soap foam, ammonia or regular.
Relatively low cost.
Self-tightening with dermantine does not require additional hands.
This is an environmentally friendly material.
Excellent sound and thermal insulation performance.

When purchasing dermantine for door upholstery, you should pay attention to the thickness of the fabric that will serve as the base, as well as the quality of the top coating. Preference should be given to durable material that is slightly springy when stretched.

High-quality dermantine will not have paint stains and will not leave marks when running your fingernail over it. There is no need to buy material with a strong odor, as it does not evaporate well and will remain in the room for a long time.

Buying dermantine costs 15-20 cm more than the door leaf.

Dermantin upholstery

The easiest way to reupholster with dermantine is on removed doors. Also removed door hardware, old coating, and all dirt and dust are removed.

Before upholstering doors with dermantine, sound and heat insulation is carried out. Previously, foam rubber was used, but today it is best to purchase isolon for such purposes, which is denser and copes with the task better. A layer of isolon should cover the entrance door leaf, and a small indentation should be left on the hinge side.

Insulation is glued to a metal door special glue, which is applied in a thin layer around the perimeter of the canvas.

Sound insulation can be enhanced by creating rollers along the edging. To create them you will need a piece of lining and a 10-15 cm strip of dermantine. The roller is glued to the canvas.

The next stage will be reupholstering the doors with dermantine. To neatly decorate the edges, the dermantine is folded up and secured from the inside using staples. The bend is smeared with glue and pressed. All actions are performed strictly in one direction.

When the reupholstery is completed, the fittings are installed. The holes in the upholstery are made a little smaller than in the fabric. Handles and locks are installed. All that remains is to install the doors on the hinges and you can enjoy your work.

To make the result more interesting, you can add several curly elements. The remaining door nails are suitable for such purposes. The places for their installation are marked using the dermantine, and then the nails are driven in. You can tuck a decorative cord underneath them, which will make the door more interesting. In this way you can make diamonds and other patterns.

The door opening with such cladding is adjusted to the overall interior of the room.

Source: https://golddveri.ru/vxodnye-dveri/obivka-dverej.html

How to cover a door with dermantine

Entrance doors are, of course, first of all, protection from unexpected guests, as well as from the penetration of cold air into the room, extraneous sounds, and so on. However, its functionality does not end there.

The door leaf is also, one might say, the business card or face of a house or apartment. After all, when we come to visit someone, the first thing we see is, of course, the front door. That is why the appearance of the door leaf is a fairly important aspect.

The most popular and cost-effective method of improving the appearance of a given element of the house is considered to be covering it with materials intended for this purpose. Probably the most used of them is dermantine. How to cover a door with dermantine with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.

Benefits of dermantine

This cladding material has a number of advantages compared to other similar materials:

High quality at low cost. Modern types of this covering material are practically no different from natural types of leather. However, it is several times cheaper than genuine leather. Therefore, upholstering a door with dermantine is also economically beneficial;
This type of upholstery does not shrink. Its dimensions do not change under the influence of ambient temperatures, and it is not afraid of exposure to moisture, and does not lose its qualities;
It is an excellent heat and sound insulator. Fabric covered with dermantine retains even more heat and prevents extraneous sounds from entering the room. Therefore, door insulation with dermantine is often used along with cladding;
Easy to care for. To maintain a decent appearance of the door leaf sheathed with this material, it is enough to wipe the surface of the sheathing with a damp cloth from time to time, possibly using degreasing detergents;
Excellent decorative properties. Thanks to the variety of textures and color solutions, covering the entrance doors with dermantine can give it a completely different, modern and stylish look.

How to choose material

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with dermantine, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as the quality of its coating. The most preferable material is dense, slightly springy when stretched.

The absence of paint streaks indicates high quality of this material. Good and high quality dermantine is scratch resistant.

To check its quality, just run your fingernail across its surface - there should be no marks left on high-quality material. And finally, about one more important nuance when choosing high-quality dermantine: pay attention to the smell of this material.

Cheap and low quality, it tends to exude a specific “amber” with chemical undertones. This can become a very serious problem, especially if the door trim is done from the inside.

Required Tools

Before covering the doors with dermantine, you need to prepare the necessary tools. This list is quite small:

Nails with wide (better decorated) heads;
Sandpaper. Preferably fine-grained;
Hammer;
Scissors or a sharp pocket knife;
A regular and Phillips screwdriver (needed for dismantling existing fittings);
Pliers and pliers. In case when cleaning the door leaf you have to remove old nails;
Construction stapler.

Preparation for sheathing

In order for the upholstery to lie on the door leaf evenly, beautifully, without distortions, the latter must be prepared for the covering process. Let's look at how to sheathe a door step by step:

Having removed the canvas from its hinges, we dismantle all the fittings on it (latches, locks, handles, sight glass, and so on).

We free it from the old casing, if any.
If there are any significant irregularities on the canvas, for example, remnants of old paint, then before covering the door with dermantine with your own hands, we clean it all with fine-grained sandpaper.

After all the preparatory operations have been completed, as additional protection for the door leaf, you can degrease its surface with any degreasing agent and coat it with some kind of antiseptic. After this, the canvas should dry a little.

Sheathing process

If you plan to lay insulation and lining materials, they should be prepared and marked in advance. Next, the actual door upholstery with dermantine begins.

We measure the height and width of the door leaf.
We mark and cut the dermantine according to the measurements obtained, not forgetting to make 10-15 cm allowances for each side.
We evenly spread the marked and cut cladding material onto the previously prepared door leaf.
We fold it over one of the edges of the canvas and fasten it on the other side of the door with staples. It will not be possible to sheathe an iron door with such staples, so such panels are sheathed using special self-tapping screws.
We smooth the upholstery, stretching it over the surface of the door leaf, starting from the fixed edge to the opposite end. After this, perform step 4 on all other ends. As a result, we get a surface completely covered with dermantine.
The final step of the sheathing is the final fastening of the dermantin sheathing with figured nails with wide heads.

At the final step of the cladding, when the finishing is almost complete, you have the opportunity to give free rein to your own imagination. To decorate a door trimmed with dermantine with your own hands, you can use a variety of decorative corners, slats, figured elements and so on.

Everything is limited only by the imagination and financial capabilities of the owner. If desired, by covering the door with your own hands with dermantine and decorating it, you can get your own exclusive design for the “gate” of your home.

Source: https://uteplix.com/obyekty/dver/kak-obshit-dveri-dermantinom.html

How to sheathe a door made of wood or metal - video

The simplest and most popular way to give a door an attractive appearance is to upholster or sheathe it with some material. This can be done both indoors and outdoors, you just have to use different materials and various technologies. But in any case, the process is called “door trim”. About all the subtleties and nuances - below.

What can you use to beat doors?

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. The soft one is made from two materials - dermantine (leatherette) and vinyl leatherette. Dermantin is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive.

A little later, vinyl leather appeared. This material is made on different substrates - woven and non-woven, stretchy and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable and chemically neutral.

It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and can crack. Therefore, upholstery of doors facing directly onto the street with vinyl leather is undesirable.

Leatherette door upholstery: several options

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantin in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite some time. Instead, there are different types of vinyl faux leather.

There are also materials coated with other polymers, but there are not many of them. So, from old memory, they are all called dermantine or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatine” without the “n”).

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, and there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades and can have different surface structures:

smooth - shiny and matte, there is even a metallic effect;
porous;
structured, imitating different types leather (snake, crocodile, etc.).
Crocodile skin

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for doors is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

There are more rigid upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

MDF panels with thickness from 8 mm to 18 mm;
natural wood - fragments, solid wood;
veneer;
laminate;
plastic;
postforming.

From this entire list, doors are most often finished with MDF overlays/panels. This type of upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including homemade ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a specific door leaf, after which they are installed with glue or foam into fixed starting strips. In this case, it makes sense to make the slopes from MDF.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this in different colors...

The door trim is practically the same with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Doors are installed around the perimeter starting profiles, into which trim fragments cut “to size” are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to cover a door is with artificial leather. This section allows, at the same time as improving the appearance, to increase the thermal and sound insulation performance. But this type of door trim also has disadvantages - this is the most complex technological process, requiring at least general ideas about the procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of door upholstery with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on this later).

For banners, you can use the same material that was used to trim the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the top nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails to form a pattern.

To secure the strip, you can wrap it around a nail that is not driven in completely, which is then driven in. But this option is suitable if decorative nails have large heads.

If the caps are small, the strips are nailed.

The pattern can also be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to attach - it bends less easily.

How and with what to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If you need upholstery on a wooden door, there are usually no questions asked - they are fastened with staples and then nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples must be with wide back(at least 1 mm), and the nails are wallpaper, with a wide head. The fastener installation step is from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with dermantine. There is only one way out - to plant it on glue. “Moment” glue is usually used, but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette.

They lubricate the strip from the inside (the strip that runs along the perimeter of the door and covers the junction of the leaf with door frame). When attaching vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem on both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Foam rubber is most often used to insulate doors. It is inexpensive and, if desired, allows you to create a voluminous convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each.

This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on soundproofing properties doors, and this is sometimes very important.

In addition, after 3-4 years it loses its elasticity, begins to stick together, and you have to reupholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, printed on the back side adhesive composition, protected with polyethylene film. So there will be no problems with installation. The disadvantages are the price and the rather large weight of the material.

To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the hinges with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are “Splen” and “Vibrofilter”. All of them are made on an adhesive base and can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on removed door, but if this is a problem, you can beat it right on the spot. First you need to remove all the fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole.

If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If part of the door requires repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with wooden ones cut to size.

The cracks can be covered with putty or foamed with polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient.

With their help, we will then break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will be pressed through). We will take out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and use tape to form a pattern.

The procedure is simple.

With roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one side or the other.

If we are going to upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. Look at your door more precisely, since the thickness of the sheet varies. The strip should cover the end and extend onto one and the other side by 3-4 cm.

Lay the strip, fasten it along the edge with staples (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, you also need a strip of material. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Then there are two options:

Immediately form a roller. To do this, a rope of foam rubber or batting is placed in the middle of the strip and crimped in the middle. In this form it is fixed around the perimeter of the door. Afterwards, foam rubber and material are laid on top. To form a neat edge, the material is folded inward.
The roller is formed immediately and is attached ready-made around the perimeter of the canvas.
The roller is formed later, after the vinyl is laid on the canvas. Here the technology is different - the strip is attached around the perimeter, face down. Then the foam rubber and upholstery material are attached. The edges are not rolled up, just cut to size. After finishing, the strip is folded onto the front side (a strip of foam rubber can be placed in it), folded and secured with wallpaper nails.
The strip for the roller is fixed in advance; the roller itself is formed after the upholstery material is fixed

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery, in the second - along the edge of the bolster. They choose who they like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. This way we avoid drafts and reduce heat loss.

But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered on the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this trick does not work, it will not close.

Then you have to do without a roller.

Without roller

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is folded evenly, fixed with nails or staples - whichever suits you best.

Door trim process

To reduce noise levels, the doors are covered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller was chosen. First, we removed the old fittings and installed a new lock. The trim and handle were removed, but the internal parts remained in place. Let's start upholstering the doors.

We immediately form a roller - we lay narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantine and fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to install sound insulation. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it on. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air; to do this, we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

We glue sound insulation

We lay and fasten the foam rubber

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, and after installation the excess is cut off.

We turn the top edge 2-3 cm, start fastening from the left top corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery with finishing nails from one edge to the other.

We fasten from the hinge side, turning the edge inward. Straighten it evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

We nail from the hinge side

We install lock linings and fittings

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a quite attractive appearance. Most often the internal part suffers. That's what we'll talk about.

On an iron door with inside There is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is placed between the frame slats. It can be polystyrene foam or slabs mineral wool. They are attached to polyurethane foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (required!). From above everything is covered with a sheet of plywood or OSB.

This standard option. If the slats are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through and through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs.

The remaining processes when upholstering a metal door are very similar to those described above. The only difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the joint using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the cold bridges. Otherwise, everything is shown well.

How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself

Sooner or later there comes a time when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it is better to make do with cosmetic repairs, especially since covering the door with finishing material will cost much less.

If you follow the technology, sheathing the doors yourself will not be difficult. Let's consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of choosing materials for them.

Choosing material

The range of finishing materials for doors is large and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of the most popular ones.

Vinyl leather

Lining

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material that is resistant to external influences, for example, larch.

But you need to take into account that such panels can fade in the sun, so covering doors with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sunlight.

Faux leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that replicates the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

strength;
efficiency;
easy care.

The disadvantage is sensitivity to temperature changes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thereby shortens the service life of the coating.

Leatherette

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works is explained by its positive qualities, such as:

Affordable price. Although you need to understand, Leatherette is a popular material for cladding, which is too cheap material, most likely will not be of high quality, so it is better to choose trusted manufacturers, even if the cost of their products is slightly higher.
Presentable appearance and variety of shades.
High strength and wear resistance.
Soundproofing properties.
Preservation of heat in the house.
Easy care (the material is easy to clean and is not afraid of moisture).

Genuine Leather

A door upholstered in genuine leather looks luxurious and emphasizes the wealth of the owners, which is valued in some circles of society. The following also speaks in favor of leather covering:

durability of the material;
good sound insulation;
additional protection against heat leakage.

PVC film

PVC film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing, is a very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. This film is sold in rolls and is a good way to update the surface of a metal or plastic door. Its main advantages:

low maintenance requirements;
low price;
simple installation;
moisture resistance;
no damage during installation on the surface to be glued.

True, there are several disadvantages - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and a relatively short service life.

The listed materials are the most commonly used for upholstery and among them there will certainly be a solution suitable for your home.

Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made.

Considering that the correct installation of the coating is no less important than the correctly selected material, several methods of covering metal and wooden doors will be discussed below, using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leatherette upholstery

So, how to cover a door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wooden and metal structures, but the preparation stage and the necessary tools are almost identical in both cases.

Preparation for upholstery

To install the coating yourself, you will need the following tools:

sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
industrial stapler;
hammer;
pliers;
screwdriver;
brush.

isolon tape – has a long service life (about 70 years), is effective, but quite expensive;
foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention properties;
batting - service life is 30 years, has good performance, but makes the door structure somewhat heavier.

Wooden door trim

The upholstery process begins with laying insulation, cut to the size of the structure, on the prepared door leaf. The material must be secured using a construction stapler or nails; before doing this, you should lubricate the surface of the door with glue for a more durable fixation.

The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap on all sides is the same. Then the edges are folded inward, ensuring that the fabric is evenly folded and tensioned.

Metal door trim

Upholstering a metal door is done a little differently, but the process is even simpler than with wood. After all, you won’t have to nail leatherette to the metal, and this part of the work is the most labor-intensive.

After preparing the canvas, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from its hinges and placed in a horizontal position.

The insulation is attached to the metal using glue, taking care to lay it correctly the first time to avoid further displacement.

After the glue has dried, use a sharp utility knife to remove excess material and reinstall the fittings.

At this point, the work is completed, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat retention in the house.

Door trim with clapboard

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update a door structure is to make doors from clapboard with your own hands.

Where to start? For wooden panels, the following advice is relevant: if the finishing material was stored outside the house, but will be used for interior cladding, then a few hours before the start of work it is worth bringing it inside the room where finishing is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to humidity and temperature.

Wooden door

To cover a wooden door you will need the following materials and tools:

panels made of selected material;
measuring instruments (tape tape, level);
pencil;
suitable cutting tool;
screwdriver;
plane and sandpaper;
screws or nails;
varnish and brushes.

Metal door with clapboard trim

Metal doors covered with clapboard will be a little more difficult to make due to the strength of the metal. To attach the panels, you will have to build a wooden frame attached to the door structure, and then install the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

bars or slats made of wood;
drill and screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
saw;
pencil and tape measure.

The slats need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them to suit the diameter of the screws, attach the frame components to the surface of the door and apply marks to the metal through these holes. The metal structure will also need to be drilled in the designated places.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are installed identically to the method described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Panels made of lining are a good solution for finishing and at the same time insulating the door

Decorating a door is a fascinating and creative process, but a responsible one.

A serious approach and a little training before starting finishing work will allow you to turn your ideas into reality, and the resulting result will be a reason to be proud.

Metal door trim

Any entrance door is the calling card of your home, and all apartment residents certainly want the entrance to their home to appear durable and beautiful from the outside.

Because it often completely characterizes the owner of the apartment. With a wooden door, everything is very simple and easy - after installing it, you will need to slightly treat the surface with stain or varnish.

Not only an angry dog, but also an iron door will help you protect your home from unfamiliar guests.

All entrance doors, most often, are purchased already finished finishing. But the door decoration is so primitive and simple to perform, this is often especially noticeable on inexpensive types entrance doors, that most buyers will immediately want to remodel it in their own style.

For these purposes, it is necessary to use a variety of materials, which are divided into groups according to the type of installation and methods of application.

MDF

MDF metal door trim is the most common and in a known way door leaf processing. This wood fiber material can be divided into the following types:

colored.
veneered
laminated.

Painted MDF - in the case of our canvas, it is advisable not to use this type of material, because its painted surface does not have high strength properties. It is best used for indoor work.

Laminated MDF panels are moderately moisture resistant and have large stock strength. The first layer of the panel consists of PVC and has excellent decorative properties: it has a smooth surface and a variety of textures, imitating natural wood.

Covering metal doors with MDF overlays is what is really used as door upholstery.

Veneer made from expensive breeds trees - ash, beech or mahogany. Accordingly, the cost of canvas with MDF increases.

Laminate

Also, metal door trim is covered with laminate, which is usually used as a floor covering. It differs slightly in composition from laminated MDF, but it has a relatively large margin of safety.

Fiberboard with a significant density is used as the basis for the laminate. It is bonded together with paper layers, and treated with melamine or acrylic resin– the resulting material is shaped like a “layer cake”.

Since laminate is not affected ultraviolet rays, fluctuations in temperature and high humidity, then it is easy to block not only the entrance to the house, but also the entrance to the cottage, which is located on the street.

Powder coating

Powder coating of metal doors is done in a special way, in a factory environment.

This coating method is the highest quality and uses special technology painting powder paint onto the surface of the door leaf, which is applied using the electrostatic spraying method, and then the metal is baked in an industrial oven at high temperature.

Spraying with a special powder is not subject to mechanical stress and has dielectric and antistatic characteristics.

A huge selection of colors will help you update the appearance of your door and choose any imitation - leather, granite or gold.

Coating with this type of paint is the most expensive type of finishing. If you want to decorate a metal sheet with forged elements, the price will directly depend on the complexity of making such elements.

Covering metal sheets with clapboard

The sheathing of the metal sheet is usually sheathed using wooden lining.

This type of board is made from a variety of wood species, for this reason the consumer will be able to choose and purchase really high-quality and relatively inexpensive finishing material.

If you cover a door using lining, then here you can become a real designer. The slats can be distributed at different angles, and can also be applied decorative strips, cover with carvings, burn out a design, or simply paint it.

You already have a question: “How to sheathe a door made of metal wooden clapboard?. After all, wood cannot be nailed to a metal surface.

To make a noise-reducing layer, it is recommended to fill the cavity inside the structure with insulation.

We have shared with you the most famous upholstery methods. There are other types: vinyl, dermantin and leather.

In the 90s, covering a metal door with dermantine was very popular among the people. This type of upholstery is the most economical, but it has also proven to be the most impractical.

The most expensive finishing of a door leaf is considered to be finishing of solid oak. This method is uneconomical due to the fact that this finishing technology can only be used in production - it is quite difficult to work with this wood at home.

How to attach facing panels?

The solution to this issue depends entirely on the condition of the canvas itself and the right choice material and method of upholstery.

If the cladding is made of MDF or laminate, then these panels must be attached using metal glue:
For good adhesion of materials, you will need to prime the surface of the door leaf. This is a necessary measure; without it, the connection between the metal and the panels may not last long.
Liquid nails can be used to attach trim parts. To firmly attach the decorative layer, it can be fixed using metal corners.
The lining can also be secured in the same way. But panels made of natural wood are much heavier in mass than panels made of MDF, so if you nail it, its fixation will be much stronger.
In other cases, fastening with glue is much more convenient and practical, since nails can only damage the cladding.

As you have already seen, replacing the casing is not so difficult work, which can be handled by beginners and professionals.

And finally, the most important thing - slopes

If you decide to install the door yourself, or improve the appearance of the old one, then this work will not be completed if the slopes are not properly plastered. A slope is a part of the wall structure that frames the door leaf around the entire perimeter.

When dismantling the door leaf, the slopes may have a defect, both cosmetic and structural. They are finished immediately after installing your door, and the installation seam is strengthened. In this case, several finishing options are used. Mini-instructions, which indicate the methods by which the slope is finished, are given below in the article:

The simplest and economical option- plastering the surface. To do this you will need a special tool - a template.
A template will be needed to ensure that the angles of the slopes are accurate and even.
First of all, the top slope is plastered, and then the sides. When the work is completed, it will take time for the plaster to dry completely, and after that you can go over its surface with sandpaper. And finally, cover it with a primer - and then paint it or wallpaper it.
If you don’t want to deal with plaster, you can finish the slopes with sheets of plastic or use drywall.

The choice of material for them is selected based on the type of finish of the door leaf or the nature of the wall adjacent to it.

If we talk about the side of the slope that faces the entrance, then we will need to: either plaster the slope, or use drywall, and then paint it with water-based emulsion. Plastic slopes can be used in finishing those parts that are located in the apartment itself or in the hallway.
In order for the slopes to look harmonious after installing the door leaf, it is necessary to use the materials with which you finished it. Laminate and MDF panels, in their structure, resemble the texture of wood, then in this case you can finish the slopes using these materials, having previously selected the material by color.
To make the wooden slopes on your canvas look elegant, you need to remember about assembly seams. They will need to be sealed with foam, and the excess will need to be cut off.
At the very beginning, the upper slope is installed. It must be fixed with screws or glued - the caps of the screws will need to be hidden under decorative plugs. Seams near slopes are treated with transparent silicone sealant and then install plastic corners or trims.

In this article, we shared with you how easily and simply you can frame your front door yourself and allow it to find a second life. Repairing metal door trim is not the worst thing to do in your apartment.

Upholstery of metal doors - a detailed analysis of the most popular options

Suppose you decide to make a steel door with your own hands or want to buy one, but the upholstery of metal doors in the store leaves much to be desired. Don’t be upset, sheathing a metal door yourself is not so difficult, and then we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the front door and slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the options that exist today.

The upholstery of the metal entrance door speaks of the status of the owner of the house.

What are doors being finished with now?

First of all, remember that lining a metal door on the outside and decorative finishing on the inside are not the same thing. Even if visually the materials look the same, their characteristics or at least the level of processing are completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where the outside cladding is regularly watered by rain, freezes and roasts in the sun, and on the inside the finishing of metal doors is in comfortable conditions residential building. By the way, at this address you can learn about insulating iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

Finishing metal doors with laminate flooring has long ceased to be a curiosity. After all flooring initially designed for quite serious loads:

Finishing an iron door with laminate flooring is a good and inexpensive option.

It will not be difficult to wash an iron door finished with laminate from whitewash, to remove dirt or traces of shoes, because on the floor this coating is subjected to even greater tests;
Any laminate will easily withstand the claws of pets; even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
A big plus from a design point of view is the same finish of the floor, slopes and door leaf;
The thickness of the planks ranges from 6 to 12 mm, the weight of the cladding is also not large, which is an additional advantage when choosing;
The planks are connected according to the tongue-and-groove principle, and after splicing they form a smooth monolithic surface, in which even the seams are difficult to feel;
To fix it on the canvas, it is enough to clean and treat the steel sheet with primer, after which you can safely glue the planks, for example, onto liquid nails;
If the doors from the inside are not sheathed with a solid steel sheet, then the laminate strips are attached to the bars of the internal sheathing, and in order to hide the unflattering cut and screws, a plastic U-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

It is quite possible for an amateur to decorate the inside of a door with laminate flooring.

Now let's move on to the pitfalls; there are plenty of them here too. Let's start with the fact that laminate flooring, no matter how expensive and elegant it may be, was originally created as an internal covering, which means it is not designed for sudden temperature changes, frost and excessive humidity.

Accordingly, they can only be used to decorate doors from the inside. Exterior finishing is possible only in multi-storey buildings with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to opt for laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking starts with 2, then this material is made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Anything that starts with three (31,32,33,34) is designed for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of laminate flooring depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you don’t need to listen to the consultant’s persuasion. The fact is that visually classes 21 and 34 may not be any different, and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them with a fire hose, then take the twenty-first class, and the thinnest slats (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panels

MDF panels are solid large door linings; professionals call these panels cards. Now upholstering a metal door with such cards takes up almost half of the market.

Finishing metal entrance doors with MDF panels is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, according to the manufacturers, does not contain any harmful additives.

Wood dust is poured into molds, pressed and fried under high pressure, as a result of which the natural glue lignin is released, which turns the compressed mass into a monolithic sheet.

Before sheathing the canvas, you need to decide which panel you want to see. You can sheathe a metal entrance door with pure MDF, laminated or veneered.

To be honest, blank MDF sheets are not suitable for decorating a door leaf. The top layer of the sheet is practically not protected, its appearance is rather mediocre and the most you can do is paint it with something, but you won’t achieve much beauty.

The most common is laminated MDF; such cards have quite a lot of advantages:

Laminated MDF card is resistant to fading;
Finishing a metal door with your own hands will not be difficult for you, both external and interior decoration performed equally simply;
For finishing work you need a minimum of tools. If you are covering only the door leaf, without slopes, then a drill and a screwdriver are enough;
Washing MDF card from stains and other troubles is as easy as laminate flooring;
The door trim does not require additional adjustment or modification; the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If your canvas is not standard, then you can use several small cards or order a panel according to your size;
In serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so that before disassembling old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clamp is removed, after which the old panel is moved to the side and pulled out, and the new one is inserted in its place.

Decor options for MDF door cards. The result of the wrong choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector, MDF panels covered with natural wood veneer are used to decorate entrance doors. Veneer is a thin slice of wood, so if you use it to cover MDF panel, then it will be no different from a natural board.

It turns out that for reasonable money you can make yourself luxury wooden doors, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to a natural solid card, the difference will be at least 2 times.

Veneered MDF panels are practically no different from natural wood.

Most European companies produce cards covered with so-called eco-veneer. If you don’t go into details and brush away the advertising tinsel, then eco-veneer is just high-quality plastic that contains some percentage of wood.

The story is approximately the same with multi-veneer, but it is visible to the naked eye. The design there is quite abstract, cubes, waves, circles and a lot of other options, but this is natural wood, only pressed, glued and cut, this is not for everyone.

Leather upholstery

Many people associate quilted door trim with Soviet design. Indeed, if you take cheap dermantin and upholster the doors with it, the look will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option; with a reasonable approach, quilted upholstery can look luxurious.

Doors finished with natural soft skin You won’t find it now because it’s very expensive. A new material called eco-leather is used for upholstery; this material is a synthetic coating that visually and to the touch is no different from real leather.

Quilted cladding, in addition to its solid appearance, has 2 tangible advantages: firstly, it additional insulation, and secondly, serious sound insulation. Although for domestic cats and dogs, quilted upholstery is first in line for tearing.

The carriage screed belongs to the elite finishing of entrance doors.

The easiest way is to take eco-leather and cover it with a sheet of plywood, and use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a truly luxurious door, then there is a carriage tie for this; it is more difficult to make, but the result is worth it.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel sewn from pieces, then know that this is a cheap, low-quality product.

Powder coating

Powder coating of doors cannot be done at home with your own hands. This is a high-tech process: the metal is cleaned, processed and special paint is applied, after which the door is “fried” in ovens, as a result the surface acquires unique protection.

A fine-crystalline film is formed on the surface of the metal, which is easy to clean and reliably protects the doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such a lining cannot be scratched; we do not know whether these claims are true, but powder paint can withstand animal claws without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder coating.

Hammer paint can be a good alternative to powder painting; you can use it to paint your doors yourself and the look will be no worse than powder coating. At “this address” you will learn how to properly disassemble doors, how to wash metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

Lining

Lining for different types finishing has been used for about 100 years and despite such an advanced age, it is still among the leaders. Neat wooden planks are connected using tongue-and-groove technology. The lining has quite a lot of advantages.

Lining can be used for both external and internal finishing of doors, although for external finishing the wood will have to be treated with a complex primer and varnished for external use;
The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
Natural wood will never go out of style; with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
The technology for installing lining is quite simple and accessible to any home craftsman; we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with lining, within a day you will cover your front door with it;
The slats can be combined as you wish, as a result your door will have an original pattern.

When finishing iron doors with clapboard, novice craftsmen often do not know how to fix the strips to the metal. So from the inside, the lining is hemmed to a pre-fixed wooden sheathing, which in turn is attached to the stiffeners and the internal frame of the doors.

The outer cladding is prepared separately; first, the lining is screwed to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to a metal sheet. In order to securely fasten the façade panel, metal sheet you will need to drill a dozen holes and screw it on the inside with self-tapping screws.

By the way, lining is not only made of wood; now they produce many options for plastic lining. Theoretically, it is possible to cover doors with plastic, but not everyone likes such cladding, plus the strength of plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Slopes are the part of the wall that frames doors or windows; accordingly, until the slopes are made, the door lining cannot be considered complete. In this case, experts identify 4 common options for facing slopes.

Plastering is considered the most reliable and durable. Such a slope will last for decades, but not everyone can do plastering work, plus it is a rather dirty process;
Covering slopes with plasterboard is considered no less reliable. GKL sheets can be either mounted on the sheathing or glued to a special mortar, but after installation the drywall must be puttied;
Another popular finishing method door slopes is installation on the lathing. It’s simple, you just put a sheathing on the slope, and on the sheathing you can attach everything you see fit – plastic, MDF, gypsum board, plywood, lining, etc.
But the most popular option now are telescopic slopes made of MDF. They are a kind of constructor. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the additional strip is selected and the entire structure is installed in a couple of hours, the only problem is that telescopic slopes are much more expensive than others.

Choosing upholstery for metal doors is a responsible matter, because it largely indicates the status of the owner. When making a decision, carefully weigh all the pros and especially cons of the materials described above and let your door be the most beautiful in the area.

Door upholstery with leatherette allows you to increase it performance characteristics- heat and sound insulation. This is a simple operation, so anyone can handle it. Next, let's look at all its nuances.

Before upholstering a door with leatherette, you should purchase a certain list of materials:

Lining.

For this purpose, foam rubber with a thickness of 1-2 cm is suitable (the more, the better). If there is a need for increased thermal insulation of the structure, we recommend paying attention to isolon. This is a very effective insulation material that is used in many industrial areas. The only negative is that it is much more expensive, but its technical characteristics are many times superior to foam rubber.

Leatherette for doors.

As a rule, it is sold in strips 110-130 cm wide (you choose the length yourself). This is sufficient for standard designs. If you have a large canvas, you will have to look for options with a larger width. For an iron door we take a margin of 10-15 cm. Do not forget that for wooden canvas you will need to make three strips 15-20 cm wide around the entire perimeter. Based on this, make calculations, remembering to leave a margin of 5-10%.

Decorative nails.

In this case, we use furniture analogues with a wide head. They have a wide range of colors, so you can choose the option that suits your taste. You can also find nails whose heads are covered with vinyl leather - they will be completely invisible in our design.

If the task is to cover a metal door with leatherette, then you will need special glue (if there are no holes in the door for nails). You can use “Universal Moment” or similar analogues.

Please note: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant.

Re-upholstering a door with leatherette will require certain tools: construction stapler with staples, a small hammer, a utility knife, a set of screwdrivers, scissors, pliers and a brush. A screwdriver may be needed to dismantle the fittings.

Preparatory stage of work

Before covering the door with leatherette, it is necessary to carry out a number of preliminary manipulations:

We prepare the place for laying the canvas. You should put something on the floor so as not to stain it.
Remove the fabric from the loops. A screwdriver with an appropriate attachment will help us with this. If you do not dismantle the canvas, the cladding will be much more difficult, since the hinges, walls and floor will get in the way. At the same time, you can clean and lubricate the hinges (WD-40 is suitable for this). We remove all the fittings: locks, peephole, handles, etc. If there is old casing, remove it.
In order for lining the front door with leatherette to be successful, we carefully clean the original surface of dirt. At the end it can be degreased, for example, with White Spirit (relevant only for metal surfaces). This will ensure better adhesion of the adhesive.

We do the lining from the inside

Now let's look at how wooden doors are upholstered with leatherette from the inside. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

The first step is to make a roller - it is designed to cover the existing gap. In some cases it may fit snugly into the box.
We cut a strip of leatherette 15 cm thick. We nail it with staples and a stapler to the canvas, so that it extends onto it by 4-5 cm.

Advice: if there is an overhead lock, it is better to start nailing from there. Otherwise, we start from the top corner where the loops hang.

Using this method, it is necessary to trim the entire perimeter of the canvas. Having finished with this, we cut the foam rubber (or other lining material). We divide it into strips 10-12 cm wide. Using staples, we secure them around the perimeter, and then tuck them so that they protrude a few centimeters. As a result, we will create a roller.
Now we cut off a large piece of foam rubber that will occupy a niche between the strips, preferably with a margin of 1-2 cm for each side. We secure it with staples (it’s better to shoot as often as possible).
We cut off a piece of leatherette with a small margin (7-10 cm for each side).
We turn the edges of the material 6-7 cm and place it in the corner of the canvas so that it fits onto the roller. Stepping back half a centimeter from the edge, we nail the material in the corner onto a decorative nail.
We take the second edge, also tuck it in and pull it well. It should hit the other corner exactly. We fix it on the second nail. We straighten the material from top to bottom by running our hand over it. It is necessary to smooth it carefully so that no wrinkles appear.
We evaluate the evenness of the placement of the material - it should have the same distance from all edges. If necessary, make adjustments by removing one of the nails.
When we are absolutely sure that the position is even, we securely hammer in the upper edge (the step between the nails is no more than 10 cm). Check the evenness again. Next, you need to punch through the remaining sides and bottom end in the same way (that is, tucking the edges). Do not forget to constantly smooth the material.

This completes the door upholstery with leatherette with your own hands. All that remains is to put the canvas back in place and install the fittings back. You will first need to make the appropriate holes in the material. We recommend using a special leather knife (it has the shape of a right triangle).

We carry out work from the outside

If we insulate the door with leatherette from the outside (from the entrance), then the work is carried out differently. There is no need to remove the canvas from the hinges, since we will need to make the markings in assembled form.

Close the sash completely.
Using a pencil or marker, we outline the projection of the box on the canvas. Simply put, we need to draw along the entire perimeter - this way we will get a contour along which the cladding will be made. If we go beyond this line, the door simply will not close, because the lining will not give.
We prepare the rollers (as in the previous example). We fasten the bottom strip so that it is located close to the threshold (according to the previously applied markings). There should be a small gap; if it is not left, the material will wear off over time.
We fix the lining material with an indentation of 1 cm. We fasten the main part of the vinyl artificial leather (same as in the example above).
Next we need to create an insulating bead on the other three sides. Now it will be located on the box itself. At the same time, it must be filled with foam rubber in order to prevent cold air from entering the room. Carefully observe the dimensions so that the sash can close normally without a large gap appearing.
At the end, we secure the lower edge of the casing and return the removed fittings to their place.

Finally, we can give our design a more attractive look. Furniture nails, decorative lace and our own imagination will help us with this. From a cluster of caps you can create an intricate figure.

Sheathing the iron sheet

Upholstering a metal door with leatherette is done using a completely different method, which is simple. Everything is done like this:

We cut a piece of foam rubber (or other lining material) exactly along the entire length of the canvas, with a small margin.
Apply glue to the original surface (with a tube or brush). Try to do this as quickly as possible before setting occurs.

Tip: if you lack dexterity, you can divide the foam into two parts and first glue one, then the second.

We take the foam rubber, carefully try it on and press it to the original surface. If we use “Moment”, then the decisive factor is the force of pressing, and not the duration.
Then use a utility knife to trim off the excess exactly along the profile. iron sheet. Next, apply glue to the upper end of the sash.
We glue the leatherette on top (we do the trimming at the very beginning, together with the foam rubber). We do this as carefully as possible, so it will be impossible to correct errors later.
We stretch the material and carefully check the accuracy of its location. Then we glue the remaining three sides. Finally, trim off the excess with a utility knife.

That's all. A door covered with leatherette will retain heat in the apartment much better and improve the sound insulation of the room. This material does not require additional processing, but it can be coated with a protective composition for leatherette - this will extend the service life several times.

Entrance and interior doors lose their attractiveness over time, but it is not always wise to purchase a new door leaf; in most cases, the situation can be saved by a new leatherette upholstery. At the same time, such an event makes it possible to improve the heat/sound insulation properties of the door, which is especially important for residents of multi-storey buildings.

Leatherette (also called leatherette, eco-leather or granitol) as a material was known and popular to our forefathers in the 30-40s of the 20th century. Leatherette was used to make upholstery not only for doors, but also for furniture, as well as book bindings and much more. However, at that time, the quality of the material was at a mediocre level, and the variety of color palettes and textures left much to be desired.

Now, thanks to modern developments, leatherette has become durable, attractive in appearance and durable material with a wide palette of shades and textures. Leatherette is one of the many leather substitutes. During the production process, nitrocellulose, polyurethane or vinyl coatings are applied to the base fabric on one or both sides, which ensure the external resemblance of the finished material to its natural analogues.

Reasons for the popularity of leatherette

Leatherette withstands temperature changes.
The material “breathes”, but at the same time has moisture-repellent properties.
Leatherette is quite durable, has sufficient tensile strength, and the surface is difficult to damage.
Leatherette is easy to care for. Every few months, the surface should only be coated with impregnation. Contaminants are removed with soap suds, ammonia or ordinary medical alcohol.
Eco-leather is attractive in appearance and is very different affordable price. Anyone who knows how to hold a hammer in their hands can buy a piece of material and beat a door with their own hands.
Leatherette as upholstery is a good sound and heat insulator; therefore, if you upholster the door with eco-leather, the room will become much more comfortable.

When choosing material for door upholstery, pay close attention to the thickness of the base fabric and the quality of the coating. It is advisable to choose a dense material that is slightly springy when stretched. High-quality leatherette does not have paint stains, and if you run your fingernail across the surface, no traces remain. Don't forget about the smell. The harsh chemical aroma does not fade over time and will be constantly felt in the room.

If you are satisfied with the quality of the material, all that remains is to make a purchase by paying for a piece of leatherette, the length and width of which is approximately 10-15% greater than the dimensions of the door.

What will be useful for work?

The leatherette will have to be cut, which means you will need scissors, pencil and meter ruler or tape measure.

To secure a piece of material, it is useful construction stapler, hammer, construction and furniture decorative nails(metal or covered with vinyl leather of a matching color). No nails are needed to trim an iron door. They will be replaced by assembly glue.

Additionally, for decoration, you can prepare decorative wire or cord. If the door is very old, it is recommended to purchase metal corners to further strengthen the structure.

If additional insulation is planned, then it is worth purchasing foam rubber, felt or batting.

And to prepare the door for trim you need pliers, screwdriver, pliers.

The purpose of the preparation is to obtain a smooth door leaf on which the leatherette will lie beautifully and evenly. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the door peephole, dismantle the door handle, lock, remove old cladding, if there was one.

It is important to eliminate all protruding and protruding parts. If the door is embossed, then a sheet of thin plywood, cut according to the dimensions of the door and nailed with construction nails around the perimeter, will help to quickly level it.

This option is suitable for interior doors. It will be much more convenient to carry out the work if the door is removed from its hinges and laid horizontally on a pair of stools of equal height.

Step one. Preparing materials

In addition to the list of materials and tools listed above, you will need frame profiles for tensioning the fabric (one-sided). We cut these profiles so that they can be easily positioned around the perimeter of the door.

You will also need furniture buttons consisting of two parts - a metal base with threads and a cap covered with leatherette.

Step two. Making the markings

In order to evenly and beautifully cover the door with leatherette, we make markings, namely:

using a square and a tape measure, divide the door with two perpendicular lines into four equal parts;
We mark on the door the places where the buttons will be installed.

Step three. We attach buttons, insulation and trim

Apply mounting glue to the places where the buttons will be located. Glue the threaded button parts.

We take the already cut profiles and glue them around the perimeter of the door. We wait for the glue to dry (about a day).

While the glue is drying, cut out holes for buttons in the insulation sheet (polyurethane foam or foam rubber). The next day, we spread the insulation on the surface of the door, aligning the holes in the material with the button fastenings glued to the door. Trim off the excess along the edges. We do the same with leatherette. All that remains is to screw on the buttons, stretch the leatherette and tuck it into the profiles.

Step four. Final

We install the handle and hang the door in place. This completes the work.

Upholstering a door with dermantine with your own hands is easy! Classic option

The work is quite painstaking, but anyone can do it. There is no need to remove the door from its hinges.

We cut out the material. We will need strips of dermantine about 15 cm wide for the border rollers and a layer of material slightly larger than the door.

We take leatherette strips, nails and a hammer. Place the strip with the wrong side up. Using nails (10 cm increments) or a stapler, we fasten the edge of the strip to the edge of the door.

Using a stapler or glue, we fix the foam rubber to the surface of the door. Trim off the excess with a utility knife. On top of the foam rubber we attach two layers of batting in the same way. This will extend the life of the short-lived foam rubber and improve the thermal insulation qualities of the door.

Let's start attaching the leatherette fabric. We hammer the first decorative nail at the top of the door, in the middle. The second is at the bottom center of the door. This will avoid distortions. For the same purpose, it is worth tensioning the material as tightly as possible. Next, we hammer nails around the perimeter of the door, keeping a pitch of approximately 10 cm.

Let's return to the door frame. Cut the batting into thin strips and roll each into a tube. We place these tubes in the center of the leatherette strips. We wrap the strips inward so that we get a neat roll. We secure the rollers with decorative nails.

We attach the handle to the updated door. At this point you can complete the work or start decorative finishing. To do this, take a cord and lay out any design you like on the door, for example, a zigzag or diamonds.

Pay attention! If your door opens “pull”, then you will have to attach the rollers not to the door, but to the jambs (frame) adjacent to it. On the door itself, the leatherette is simply stretched, the edges are rolled up and secured around the perimeter with nails.

Door upholstery with leatherette using the tiled method

The door itself will serve as the basis; buttons and foam rubber are also needed. The door must be removed from its hinges.

We make markings using a square and a meter ruler. We draw out the entire door leaf into identical diamonds, into the corners of which we attach the screws that serve as the base for the buttons. We lay out the foam rubber with the holes cut out and secure it with a stapler (insert 3-4 staples around each screw, as well as securing the foam rubber around the perimeter of the chipboard).

Foam rubber with holes

Cut leatherette into diamonds. Leatherette diamonds should be slightly larger than those marked on the door. Excess material will be used for hemming. For leatherette diamonds, we cut off one corner in advance to make it easier to cover.

We fasten the first diamonds along the edges of the door with a stapler, bending them over. The corners of the diamonds should be in those places where the button fastening protrudes.

How to attach diamonds in the center of the panel? Lay out the diamond on the foam rubber according to the markings. The cut corner should be at the top. We fasten the bottom corner of the diamond with a bracket. We bend the edges of the material. We secure the right and left corners of the diamond with brackets, avoiding distortions and wrinkling of the leatherette. Screw on the button. We continue until the entire door is hidden behind neat trim.