How to make a ceiling from a wooden lining. The lining ceiling is a worthy symbiosis of price and quality. The material must be acclimatized

The appearance of the ceiling is an important component of the interior of any room. It has not only a decorative function, but also has practical significance. First of all, the ceiling retains heat, isolates extraneous sounds and makes the details of communications and lighting invisible. Modern market building products offers a variety of finishing materials that can make the ceiling modern, beautiful and well-groomed. One of the representatives of such finishing materials is lining. Consider its types and how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard.

Types of construction lining

Wooden lining is a popular finishing material. It is made from hardwood and conifers trees. Main advantages: resistant to the formation of fungus and mold, easy to process, there is a small amount of knots. To sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard with their own hands, many consumers, due to their strength, durability and environmental friendliness, choose it. In rooms where the air temperature is much higher than usual, and the ceiling is supposed to be finished with clapboard, a linden cladding board is used, since it does not contain resin. Lining can be painted with enamel various colors, varnished or just have your own natural look and color.

Plastic lining is distinguished by ease of installation and practicality, the absence of rotting and corrosion processes. It can be either with a seam or seamless, imitate the structure natural stone, various breeds trees, and also have a uniform color. After assembling the ceilings, no priming or painting is required.

Lining Fiberboard or MDF panels are made from wood fiber by pressing, they also serve to finish the ceiling with a do-it-yourself clapboard, but are not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity. Features: due to the rich color range, they have a beautiful appearance, are durable.

Design of ceilings made of lining

Almost all the materials used in interior decoration are perfectly combined with the clapboard board used for do-it-yourself ceiling installation. For baths and saunas, country houses, loggias and balconies this material has no equal. The kitchen requires no less attention.

The design of the ceiling from the lining should be combined with the overall interior of the room and look stylish and harmonious. To prevent the surface from being monotonous, the installation of the rails is carried out in different directions, thereby forming a certain pattern. For the same use decorative beams or slats different color. The kitchen will look elegant if natural wood is present in the ceiling decoration.

What tools will be required

In order for the lining of the ceiling with a clapboard with a wooden frame not to cause any inconvenience, it is necessary, you must have your own specific set of tools at hand:

Screwdriver, hammer drill or impact drill.
A hammer.
Level (water or laser).
Building corner.
Roulette.
Hacksaw. For a metal profile - scissors for metal.

When constructing a wooden frame, it is recommended to use a beam measuring 20X40 mm, 40X40 mm, 50X50 mm. To fix it to the ceiling and walls, nails-screws or anchors are used along with plastic dowels and wood screws. If you need to make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, but with the help of metal frame, you will additionally need:

CD profile - serves as the basis of the frame;
UD profile to create a perimeter;
cross mounts of the “crab” type and U-shaped mounts;
self-tapping screws "flea" and self-tapping screws for metal.

In order to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house, certain calculations of the amount of materials needed are required. The fastening of the lining to the frame is carried out using staples of a construction stapler, special nails, clips and self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Preparatory work

Sheathing clapboard involves mandatory preparatory work. When buying this material, you need to understand that the lining must have the same temperature and humidity with the room, in order to subsequently avoid sweating and distortions. For this purpose, it must be freed from packaging and laid out on the floor for at least a day.

If there is old cladding or other finishing materials on the ceiling, they are dismantled without regret, peeling plaster is removed. The surface is free of dust and various pollution. Small gaps are sealed with putty, and deep ones are embroidered with a grinder and concreted with cement mortar.

To avoid fungal infection, the base is treated special solution. If necessary, make insulation with heat-insulating material.

Surface marking

This stage of work is the most important, on the quality of which the entire finishing process of the ceiling depends. The task of how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard will be correctly solved if the markings are made correctly. Its purpose is to determine the horizontal, which indicates the plane of the future location wooden finish, as well as drawing lines parallel to each other on all walls of the room.

With the help of any level, they find the lowest point of the base, from which the rest of the marks are made on other walls around the perimeter. The ceiling is lowered within 7-10 cm. A closed contour is applied using a coloring molar cord or marker. It must be remembered that the laid line must converge at one point, and offsets indicate an error in the markup.

Frame installation

Finishing the ceiling with your own hands is a simple process, but it requires some attention. Ceiling sheathing is carried out in two stages: device bearing base and its upholstery.

Option 1: frame made of wooden beams

At the very beginning of work, two beams are attached from opposite sides of the room at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall. The beam is fixed to the ceiling with nails, screws, dowels or anchors in increments of 60 cm, and perpendicular to the chosen direction of the panels. The distance between the bars should be 60-100 cm for wood and 40-60 cm for plastic panels. The bottom edge of the beam must be exactly parallel to the floor and level with the other beams. A fishing line or rope is stretched along the lower edge of the installed wooden crossbars, guided by which the rest of the bars are attached.

We are strengthening the structure. Between the laid bars, jumpers from the same bar are installed. They are especially needed where installation is planned. lighting fixtures.

Option 2: metal profile frame

Installation begins with fixing along the entire perimeter of the walls of the UD profile along the marked contour. Attach it with dowels. Then, from opposite sides of the ceiling, CD profiles are attached 10-15 cm from the walls. Their location should be strictly perpendicular to the future skin. Profiles are connected to the ceiling using U-shaped fasteners with a pitch of 40-60 cm. They are installed along a stretched cord, and then the remaining profiles are fixed along the ceiling surface. The distance between CD profiles should be no more than 60 cm.

Reinforce metal structure jumpers using a crab type cross mount.

After complete installation of all types of frame, electrical wiring is mounted, the ends of the wire are left at the necessary points, where the lighting fixtures will be installed.

Installation of lining

So, let's figure out how to hem the ceiling with a clapboard, so that the result of the work causes a feeling of deep satisfaction.

From the selected material, blanks are pre-made with a length equal to the distance between parallel walls minus 5 cm. The assembly begins with the installation of the first plank, which is attached to the frame bars on both sides with a stapler. The second and subsequent rails are inserted at a slight angle into the slot holes of the previous one. For reliability, each lining from the end side is tapped along its length with a rubber mallet. The second side is attached to the guides for the lower part of the key border. To do this, take nails or self-tapping screws with a press washer. Install the strips to the opposite wall.

Using plastic cladding or PVC panels, the order of installation and the size of the gaps for possible thermal expansion remain unchanged. Just before proceeding with the installation of the first strip, it is necessary to fix a U-shaped groove around the entire perimeter of the ceiling under construction, into which the extreme ends of all panels will be inserted.

Final stage

How to make a ceiling from a lining is already known, but newly made, it takes a little more time. To close the gap between the walls and the lining, a corner or any decorative plinth.

Knowing how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, you can competently organize the entire finishing process and turn wooden planks into a reliable and eye-catching cladding.

Clapboard ceiling decoration is both a beautiful, practical and functional solution for any room. Consider the advantages and disadvantages, the secrets of choice and phased technology mounting wooden lining with your own hands.

The content of the article:

Modern range facing materials for the ceiling is very extensive and varied. Along with plastic panels and plasterboard sheets, the most relevant options for sheathing can be safely attributed to a profiled board from natural wood. It is not difficult to explain the popularity of clapboard ceiling decoration: it is absolutely environmentally friendly, beautiful and easy to install and maintain.

Advantages and disadvantages of lining the ceiling with clapboard

Ceiling cladding with natural wood panels is rightfully considered a classic of the building genre. In comparison with competitive finishing materials, lining has many undeniable advantages:

Excellent performance . The wood finish is strong, reliable and durable. With proper pre-installation preparation and correct subsequent care, it will last at least 12-15 years.
Ecological cleanliness. Unlike synthetic "relatives", lining made of natural lining is not only harmless, but also useful for the inhabitants of the home. Due to its hygroscopic properties, wood is able to purify the air and normalize the level of humidity in the room.
Ease of installation. Distinctive feature finishing profiled board - the presence of special grooves and ridges. Thanks to these structural elements, ceiling cladding is carried out easily and quickly, even without the involvement of assistants.
Practicality and functionality. Sheathing the ceiling base with clapboard allows you to mask minor flaws and flaws made during construction or repair. In addition, behind the coating decorative panels you can hide electrical wiring, pipes, ventilation ducts, sound or heat insulating layer.
Aesthetic appearance. The wooden lining ceiling looks solid, stylish and spectacular, and, importantly, it is compatible with almost any room design.
Construction budget savings. Using a natural board for ceiling cladding, you can save a lot on the purchase of starting and finishing finishing materials - plaster, putty, paint, wallpaper, etc.

The disadvantages of such a finish include the following:

Competent lining of the ceiling with clapboard implies the mandatory construction of a frame crate. Constructions of this type noticeably "steal" the height of the living space.
The next minus of wooden sheathing is a low level fire safety. To protect the material from the destructive and dangerous effects of fire, it is carefully treated with protective flame retardants before installation work.
It is worth considering that natural lining, valued for its strength and durability, may slightly change the geometric parameters and deform due to incorrect operation or careless maintenance.

Criteria for choosing lining for finishing the ceiling

Sheathing wooden board is presented on the construction market in a huge assortment. To determine the choice of this material, you should have a clear idea of its varieties and properties. The main criteria for distinguishing modern lining, include the type of wood used, its grade and sectional profile.

The type of wood when choosing lining for the ceiling

Traditionally, softwood or hardwood is used for the manufacture of lining:

Softwood. This category includes pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar. Products from the listed raw materials are practical, durable and resistant to moisture and fungi, so they can be used for finishing ceilings in both residential and utility rooms, and in utility rooms. The only thing is that this lining is not recommended for inner lining saunas and baths, as with a sharp increase in temperature, fragrant coniferous wood releases an abundant amount of resinous substances that can provoke spontaneous combustion of the material.
Hardwood. This category includes oak, beech, ash, aspen, alder and linden. This kind of wood lends itself perfectly machining, toning and methods of artificial aging. Due to its high decorativeness, it is suitable for covering ceilings in rooms for various purposes - from terraces and balconies to bedrooms and children's rooms. Distinctive property hardwood material - resistance to temperature fluctuations and dampness. That is why lining ceilings of this type are often equipped in rooms with high and variable humidity.

Classes of lining for finishing the ceiling

A separate topic is the range of lining. Depending on the quality of the source wood, all molded lumber is divided into several classes:

Class "A". Lumber marked with this marking is characterized by the presence of small single knots and small non-through cracks. It is worth noting that, according to the established standards, the listed flaws are allowed only in invisible zones and areas (the reverse side and the end of the board).

Class "B". The lining, belonging to this class, has noticeable roughness and not smooth, shallow longitudinal grooves and resin bags. Traces can be found on the front surface of such products. mechanical impact- Chips, scratches, notches and burrs.

Class "C". To lumber last class refer edged boards with noticeable mechanical damage and pronounced wood defects - extensive knots, short through cracks, spots of a contrasting shade and open resin pockets.

Note! For finishing cladding of ceilings in residential premises, experts recommend using the lining of the first two classes. As for materials marked "B" and "C", it is better to use them to create an intermediate frame or a rough binder.

Tree profile when choosing lining for ceiling decoration

Depending on the type of profile connection, all wooden lining intended for finishing ceilings and other planes in residential premises is divided into ordinary and "euro". The first is cheaper than the second, but at the same time it is significantly inferior to it in terms of configuration and processing quality:

It differs from the traditional European-style lining in its correct geometry, as well as in a more complex and deep tongue-and-groove connection, which prevents the formation of gaps between adjacent boards even with significant temperature and humidity shifts.
An important difference between European and classical lining is in terms of humidity. During the production process, the first one undergoes mandatory drying in automated chambers, due to which the wood acquires the necessary strength and plasticity.
The next argument in favor of eurolining is the presence of special ventilation ducts, acting as air ducts and responsible for the full outflow of accumulating condensate.

Do-it-yourself technology for mounting lining on the ceiling

ceiling lining wooden board- a task feasible for any interested master. Thanks to convenient lock connections The assembly of the cladding is quick and extremely simple. Let's take a closer look at how to fix the lining to the ceiling so that the finish is beautiful and durable.

Preparatory work before finishing the ceiling with clapboard

At the first stage of work, a number of certain preparatory measures should be performed:

To begin with, the old sheathing and finishing materials are removed from the base ceiling. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Small cracks found in the floor slab are sealed with a putty mixture, deep cracks embroidered with a grinder and concreted cement-sand mortar.
To prevent biodestruction of wooden finishes, the prepared base must be covered with a deep penetration antiseptic composition. The primer of the ceiling is carried out in two stages using a fleecy roller equipped with a telescopic rod. The recommended time interval between the first and second application of the protective emulsion is 2-3 hours.
At the same stage of work, the lining purchased for finishing the ceiling is released from the packaging wrapper, sorted and laid out in one layer on a flat horizontal surface in the room being installed. Such a simple procedure will help prevent cracking, warping and shrinkage of the purchased material.

Marking the surface for mounting lining on the ceiling

At this stage of work, it is necessary to prepare for the subsequent arrangement frame system and correctly label ceiling surface. The main purpose of the markup is to determine the horizontal, indicating the plane of the wood finish, and drawing parallel lines on all walls around the perimeter of the room.

It is most convenient to mark the ceiling with a laser tool, however, as an alternative, it is acceptable to use a conventional building level. With the help of the latter, the lowest point of the base base is determined and, starting from it, marks are made on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

To apply a closed contour, use a marker or a coloring paint cord. It is important that the laid line converges at a single point, and any displacements indicate errors in the marking process.

The height of the interceiling space should not only mask the unevenness and errors of the floor slab, but also allow the free laying of all communications, insulating materials and built-in lighting fixtures. As a rule, when finishing with clapboard, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 7-10 cm.

Arrangement of a frame for a ceiling from a lining

At the end of the marking work, they begin the construction of the supporting frame. For the manufacture of battens, a metal profile or planed beams with a section of 50x50 mm are used. You can also use the substandard lining found during sorting. The main thing to remember is that everything wooden elements frame structure subject to mandatory antiseptic.

Consider more rules arranging a frame for a ceiling from a lining:

The crate is installed, according to the markup, in the direction perpendicular to the position of the future cladding. With longitudinal fastening of the lining, the frame planks are fixed across the room, with transverse fastening of wooden sheathing, the frame is mounted along the room.
Prepared Items supporting structure fixed in the next order: first attach the edging rails, then the intermediate ones. To fix the details of the crate, dowels and screws are used.
The optimal distance between adjacent rows of the frame system is 30-40 cm. To avoid the possibility of sagging of the facing fabric, the structure is additionally strengthened with the help of transverse jumpers or suspensions.
During the construction process, the crate is periodically checked for flatness. If necessary, all errors are corrected with the help of placed bars or pegs of appropriate sizes.

Note! Before installing the lining in the subceiling space, all cables, wiring, the bases of built-in lamps, as well as heat and sound insulating materials, are carefully laid.

Mounting lining on the ceiling

Next, proceed to the direct sheathing of the frame structure. In order to quickly and reliably form a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, the panels are fastened with the help of hidden metal clamps. Such fixing elements are both invisible and reliable: on the one hand, they are attached to the underside of the finishing board, on the other - to the crate.

The installation of wooden panels starts from one of the corners of the room, while technological gaps (up to 10 mm) must be left between the walls and the extreme strips for possible thermal expansion of the material and unhindered ventilation in the ceiling niche.
The first plank is attached on both sides to the beams of the frame using a furniture stapler. The second board is inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first, inserted all the way and fixed at the places where the crate lies with the help of clamps.
Fastening of subsequent panels is carried out similarly to the first two. For reliability, each installed bar is gently tapped along the entire length with a mallet.
During the set of a wooden ceiling, cut out in the necessary places through holes the desired configuration for the output of the supply wires. To trim the lining, use an electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
At the end facing works all gaps between wooden paneling and walls are sealed with additional elements right size. Decorative clips or small furniture nails are used as fasteners.
If desired, the wagon finish is covered with protective compounds based on natural oils or beeswax. Such impregnations emphasize the natural beauty of wood, give it a soft matte finish and protect against mold and wood bugs.

When starting installation work, it is necessary to de-energize the room to be lined by turning off circuit breakers in the electrical room.

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard - look at the video:

Having studied the step-by-step technology of mounting the lining on the ceiling and competently organizing the finishing process, even a novice master will be able to turn a scattering of wooden planks into a beautiful and reliable cladding.

The abundance of various building materials on the market allows owners of apartments and houses to carry out ceiling repairs in accordance with current trends and fashion. Tension and suspended structures ceilings. However, for lovers of rustic style and natural materials, an ordinary wooden lining looks more attractive. In this article we will tell you how to properly sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, pick up suitable materials and assemble the crate. All those who decide to equip the ceiling with wooden lining should be prepared for the fact that this process will require big investments labor, time and patience.

We select lining for the ceiling

More recently, when it came to ceiling lining, they meant precisely wooden figured planks. However, at present, the construction market offers several varieties of lining. Based on the intended purpose of the premises, the financial capabilities and preferences of the buyer, you can choose one or another material.

The material for the manufacture of lining can be:

wood;
polyvinyl chloride;
MDF boards.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on each of the materials.

Wooden lining

In the case of finishing the ceiling with wooden clapboard, the natural country style premises. Lining made of wood is used in premises for any purpose and is absolutely safe for human health. Depending on the type of wood, the price of this building material varies. Most often, lining is made from alder, cedar, fir, oak, aspen, larch and other wood species.

Pine has antiseptic properties because it is rich in resins. These substances turn the formation of mold on the surface of the lining. In addition, pine itself is considered a fairly even tree, with a small number of knots, which makes it ideal for creating lining.

Lining from coniferous varieties wood is considered almost universal, in contrast to hardwoods, which are used mainly indoors. However, any wood is susceptible to moisture, so it must be impregnated by special means and provide air access so that it is ventilated.

Depending on the quality of the wood, there are 4 types of lining:

Top class (extra). Such a board looks perfect on the outside, there are no chips, dents or cracks on it. The price of such material is very high, since it is made by splicing. At high humidity, this material begins to crack, so this lining is not used in damp rooms.
Class A. The presence of small knots is allowed, but there are no other defects on such material. As a rule, this category of lining is chosen by most consumers.
Class B. On the surface of the board may come across small defects. Although such lining is usually not used in residential premises, it is best suited for sheathing balconies and country cottages.
Class C. This is the lowest grade material, which has a large number of knots and defects.

Characteristics of lining from MDF

In appearance, the MDF lining ceiling resembles a wooden laminate, although this material, in fact, is a slab of pressed sawdust. Such material is very sensitive to moisture. At the slightest contact with water, it begins to swell, while losing its appearance and original quality.

It is worth noting that MDF lining is used more often for walls than for ceilings. It allows you to organize various decorative elements and diversify the interior. In addition, the material has high thermal and noise insulation qualities.

If desired, you can combine MDF lining with different colors and textures. Installation of such material is not difficult.

Features of lining made of polyvinyl chloride

PVC clapboard ceiling sheathing is great option because the material is very easy to handle and easy to install. However, it is worth remembering that PVC strips are fragile, they are very easy to damage.

There are two types of PVC lining:

with seams;
seamless.

Seamless lining allows you to create an almost solid, smooth surface on which the seams between the individual planks will be almost invisible. If you want to create a surface that resembles eurolining, you should use panels with seams.

One of the main advantages of PVC panels is that they are resistant to damp environments. However, you should avoid getting direct sunlight on such a ceiling, because under ultraviolet light the lining will begin to lose its original color.

In this way, best options for finishing the ceiling, the clapboard will be plastic (PVC) panels, as well as wooden planks.

Material calculation

Before sheathing the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house, it is worth taking care of purchasing a sufficient amount of material so that in the process of work there is no need to take breaks for additional purchases. Standard sizes one board of lining is 15 cm wide, 600 cm long and 1.2-2.5 cm thick. These are the requirements of GOST 8242-88.

For interior decoration, panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used, and for exterior - from 1.8 cm or more. To determine the number of boards for finishing the ceiling with eurolining, it is necessary to calculate the area of 1 plank and compare it with the total area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be sheathed. Thus, if we took a panel 9.5 cm wide and 6 m long, its total area will be equal to 0.57 m 2.

Let's assume that the total area of the ceiling in the room is 9 m2. Then for work you will need 9÷0.57=17.3≈18 boards. This is the minimum number of panels, since during the sheathing process the width of the web will be reduced due to the peculiarities of the installation of the lining. It is fastened with a comb in the groove.

Material quality control

After you have decided on the type, color, and quantity of lining and delivered it to the place of work, you need to check its quality. On a horizontal flat surface, lay out all the panels and check how they correspond to the declared characteristics. Sometimes unscrupulous sellers place defective samples inside the package in order to avoid losses due to their rejection. Of course, it is desirable to pay attention to this even in the process of buying in a store.

The next step, if you plan to work with wood paneling, is to dry it. PVC and MDF panels do not need this manipulation. So that the wooden lining mounted on the ceiling does not deform, it must be thoroughly dried on a horizontal surface. The minimum drying time is 2 weeks, but longer intervals are allowed. If you do not want the wooden ceiling lining to lose its presentable appearance soon, drying cannot be neglected.

Preparation of tools and materials

To install the lining on the ceiling as quickly as possible, it is worthwhile to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need in the process of work:

perforator with a drill, with a cross section of 6-7 mm (if you have to work with concrete ceiling), or an impact drill;
screwdriver;
electric jigsaw or hacksaw (tools are suitable for any type of lining);
level;
roulette.

In order to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, it will be necessary to purchase a number of auxiliary materials.

Since the lining is attached to the frame, that is, the crate, you must select the type of material for it:

Wooden slats - they are best suited for fixing any type of lining, since it is easier and more convenient to work with them, and their cost is much lower than metal profiles.
Metal crate made of steel profiles. It is usually used for fixing drywall sheets.

It is worth noting that for work in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to choose a steel version of the crate and PVC lining, since they do not deform under the influence of moisture, unlike wood.

For a wooden frame you will need:

rail 4 × 4 cm based on surface area;
wooden or plastic wedges for the frame;
brackets;
self-tapping screws.

For a metal crate, you must purchase:

steel profiles;
fasteners;
suspension;
self-tapping screws;
anchors.

You can proceed with the installation of lining on the ceiling after purchasing materials and thoroughly drying the wood.

Ceiling preliminary work

It is very important before you make the ceiling from the lining, to properly prepare it. First, a layer must be removed from the ceiling surface old plaster and clean the surface of dirt so that it is as even as possible.

Next, we proceed to mark the ceiling for the frame. In this case, it is worth deciding on the direction of the lining strips. In the process of further laying the lining on the ceiling, it is desirable to place it so that there are as few end joints as possible.

Since wooden elements are susceptible not only to moisture, but also to mold, they must be coated with an antiseptic before installation.

In private houses, the ceiling should be pre-insulated. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the profile racks, mounted with an indent of 50-60 cm. If we are talking about an apartment, then additional thermal insulation is not needed.

Next, we find the level for attaching the crate. Having decided on the direction of the rails, we perform markings on the ceiling. Please note that the lining is fixed perpendicular to the bars of the crate. As desired, it can be placed at right angles to the walls or diagonally.

Retaining brackets are fixed to the ceiling with equal intervals between them. Then on the brackets are laid wooden slats, aligning them with small wedges.

In order for the eurolining ceilings to be beautiful, the crate must be mounted very carefully and perfectly evenly.

The maximum step between the fasteners is 50 cm. If eurolining is used, then the step must be halved.

How carefully you treat preliminary preparation ceiling, depends on its final appearance and durability.

Lining fastening

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is not something too complicated; even inexperienced performers can do it. True, it is advisable to work with the clapboard together, so that it is easier to fix panels of great length.

We begin to fasten the lining to the ceiling with our own hands perpendicular to the crate from the wall. The first board is tightly fixed with a spike to the wall. Using the level, adjust the position of the board, and then fix it. For laying the lining, you can use both small nails and clamps. In those rooms where the design of the ceiling from the lining should be perfect, clamps are used, and in other rooms, ordinary carnations are also suitable.

Then we take next board and insert it with a spike into the groove of the previous one. At the points of contact between the panel and the crate, we firmly fix the board. We fix all other lining panels on the battens in the same way.

At the opposite wall, the last plank of the lining may need to be cut. In this regard, it is desirable to place it in a place where it will be the least noticeable. When working with plastic panels, it is better to use a hand saw, and wooden lining and MDF panels are easier to cut with a jigsaw.

Any openings for the output of wiring or installation of lighting fixtures are best done directly at the time of fastening the lining, so as not to spoil it.

If in order to sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you use nails, then you must first cut off their hats. At the end of the work, the holes from the nails are opened with wax.

The final stage of arranging the ceiling from the lining will be the fastening of skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. These decorative elements will complete the ceiling and hide the cracks along the edges. Usually, the wooden lining is opened with varnish, and the plinth - with a stain of a darker color and varnish. If desired, such a ceiling can be painted.

Here are some helpful tips that you might find helpful:

Before sheathing the ceiling with eurolining, it is advisable to check how good the wiring and other communications passing under the ceiling are. If in the future it is necessary to dismantle the lining for repairs, it can be damaged.
Ceiling sheathing at points of contact with electrical wires must be insulated to prevent fire.
When working with wood panels, it is desirable to use fasteners that will not rust. For PVC panels, the type of fastening is not critical.
Ceiling sheathing should be done in a dry room at a temperature of at least 10 ℃.

The cost of the ceiling from the lining

The final cost of repairing the ceiling will largely depend on the price of materials. In turn, the price of lining varies depending on the type and species of wood, the length of the board, as well as the production technology.

Depending on these factors, lining by price is divided into several categories:

The most expensive is the lining made of soft hardwood. Their processing is carried out in accordance with European standards.
In the middle price category lining from hard hardwoods falls.
Softwood lining is the cheapest.

Also, if you want to equip two-level ceiling from the lining, you may have to invite a specialist, for whose services you also need to pay.

How to take care of the ceiling

If we are talking about lining made of wood, it is subject to mandatory treatment with antiseptic impregnations and primers, which slow down the destruction of wood, prevent the development of fungus and decay. When choosing a particular product, pay attention to its color, which should match the desired result.

Alternatively, wood panels can be coated with a special oil, varnish or paint of your choice. The processing option depends only on the wishes of the owner.

In order for the ceiling to retain its presentable appearance longer, it is advisable to periodically wipe the dust off it. If just a damp cloth is not enough for cleaning, you can use special household means, which in in large numbers sold in supermarkets.

Today lining is used for internal and external works. Of particular interest is the use of this finishing material to create the interior of country houses and city apartments. Let's find out how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, so that the end result will bring joy and satisfaction to the property owner.

Varieties of lining

Among the many materials used for its manufacture, of interest are:

natural wood;
plastic

Plastic samples are made in the form of long and narrow rails, supplemented with special docking grooves, which is convenient for fastening. Among positive characteristics plastic material select:

Ease of fastening during the finishing process (convenience of working with the material).
Ceiling lining hides all the defects on the surface of the ceiling.
No corrosion, rotting.
Aesthetic appearance.

This material provides additional sound insulation, high-quality insulation, ideal for outdoor and indoor decoration.

But the wooden lining ceiling requires special care, special treatment. Installation of such a coating will be much more expensive than a plastic counterpart. The wood has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, so when proper processing the ceiling will fit harmoniously into general interior premises. The finished wooden coating will be environmentally friendly; such a ceiling can also be made in children's rooms.

Action algorithm

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the tools, without which you can’t make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands. When installing this material you will need:

wood saw;
electric drill;
level;
rule;
rubber mallet;
construction angle;
roulette

Attention! The material for covering the surface of the ceiling is taken with a margin of 15-20 percent. The calculation of the amount of material that will be required to close the surface must be carried out, taking into account:

the length of the area to be closed, the width of the rails. If the length is over size rails, over the entire surface you will have to “get” the ceiling, otherwise the external impression will be spoiled.
keep in mind that the rails are joined together, that is, 2-3 cm are lost during installation.
most likely you will have to cut the extreme rail electric jigsaw to drive it into the groove. It is better to leave 2-3 wooden lining, so that if one of them is damaged, a new rail can be cut.

The algorithm for attaching the lining to the ceiling involves the preparation of a wooden frame from a bar, the thickness of which will be at least 20 mm. The section option is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Ceiling installation

Work begins with the fastening of a wooden frame, which will become the basis of the entire wooden structure. It is on him that the lining of the ceiling is then performed with a clapboard. First you need to calculate exactly where the first typesetting rail should be located. If the wall is uneven, the rail is attached loosely, but with a small margin (5-6 mm), then it can be hidden under the ceiling plinth. In order to qualitatively sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to adjust the width of the last rail, also leave a 5-6 mm gap.

The nuances of mounting the frame

It is optimal to make a wooden frame from a bar 40 by 40, 20 by 40, or 50 by 50 mm. The fastening of the beams, as well as their fixation to the ceiling, walls, is carried out with plastic dowels and nails - screws (8 by 45 mm in size), or anchors and hardened self-tapping screws (4 by 75 mm, for wood). When choosing a metal frame, you will additionally need:

UD profile for perimeter formation;
U-shaped mounting options, as well as cross "crab" fasteners;
self-tapping screws for metal, "fleas" with tips in the form of a drill;
CD profile for frame

The amount of material that will be required for the work is calculated after a detailed study of the instructions. To nail the lining to the ceiling, you will need construction stapler, nails, self-tapping screws with press washers.

When creating a wooden frame, pay attention to the following points:

When adjusting the rails, leave a gap of 4-5 mm along the entire length on both sides to prevent deformation of the material during expansion.
Do not try to immediately cut wooden slats on the entire ceiling surface. Fitting in length is individual, and therefore, each new workpiece must be cut out immediately before fastening. This will save materials, but it will take more time to fit.
It is not necessary to fix the workpiece with nails, just insert it into the lock of the previous plank.

If there are any difficulties with getting into the lock (grooves), you will need a rubber mallet. With it, you can knock out the attachment point, adjust the rail. Next, the blanks are fastened with self-tapping screws on all frame rails, it is better to fasten in the area of \u200b\u200bthe locking border.

Base mounting options

Before starting the arrangement of the ceiling, you need to find the lowest possible area on the ceiling surface. From it retreat down the wall about 6-10 cm, get the initial mark. Similarly, put marks on all four walls, armed with a water (or laser) level. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the entire room, which will correspond to the location of the base.

Advice! If you have chosen only wooden blocks or boards for the base, be sure to pre-coat them with an antiseptic to protect them from decay and increase fire safety.

1 way. Creating a wireframe wooden blocks. The bars are fixed perpendicular to the direction of mounting the lining. Between the bars there should be a distance of at least 60-100 cm. Installation is carried out so that the location of the lowest edge is strictly parallel to the floor. You need a level to check. First attached to opposite ends bars of the room, stepping back from the ceiling surface by 10-15 cm. Further, after 60 cm, you need to attach the bars around the entire perimeter of the room using anchors, dowels, or impact screws. If the bar moves away from the ceiling surface, plates made of bars are placed inside. The fishing line is pulled between the bars, they get a guideline for mounting the remaining bars. To increase the strength of the frame, jumpers are made.

2 way. Creation of a base for lining from a metal profile. The algorithm of actions is similar to covering the ceiling surface with drywall. First, a line is drawn throughout the room (along all four walls), which will correspond to false ceiling. Further, the UD profile is fixed with dowels. Then the last two metal CD profiles are attached, and the distance to the wall is taken 10-15 cm, and the direction of attachment is at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining of the lining.

The profile along the entire length is attached to the surface with special fasteners, the fixation frequency is 40-60 cm. The rope is pulled, but not installed, the rest of the profile is fixed. If necessary, to strengthen the base, the installation of crosses is carried out using "crabs". Before fixing the lining, electrical wiring is attached for installation hanging lamps, special places are left for the release electric wire. As soon as the ceiling is sheathed, a wire can be brought out through the holes left, lamps are attached to it.

Lining fastening

Let's find out how to fix the lining to the ceiling. Finishing the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands involves fastening the strips perpendicular to the guides of the finished frame. The choice of direction is carried out taking into account the design features of the room. If plans include visual extension space, fastening of rails is carried out along the length. When decorating the ceiling surface in wide room, allowed transverse fastening lining, the room will seem smaller. Even when lining the lining immediately to the surface, a crate is necessarily performed. The base of specialized metal profiles designed for fixing drywall sheets is significantly reduced total weight ceiling structure. For kitchens, hallways, it is desirable to use a metal base for lining.

Let's talk about how do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out. As soon as the frame is ready, the MDF blank is cut in strips along the entire length, corresponding to the length between opposite walls minus the gap - 5 cm. To maintain the parallelism of the rails, it is better to install each board separately, checking the location with a level.

Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling sheathing video demonstrates the procedure. The first rail is fixed in length, then attached alternately to the base rails. The distance from the first rail to the wall is assumed to be 3-5 mm. The rest of the blanks must first be under acute angle put in a groove in a fixed strip, then push it tightly until the “lock” snaps into place. In order for the fixation to be of high quality, gently tap on the end of the inserted strip with a rubber mallet. The second side of the lining is screwed over the lower edge of the lock to the guides of the frame itself, using carnations or self-tapping screws with press washers.

Before fastening the screws, it is better to drill small holes on the strips, in which case the board will not chip off. For more information on how to mount the lining on the ceiling, you can watch the video. In order to get patterns from the lining on the ceiling, you can use materials from different tree. The end board is inserted into the castle using small wooden wedges, they need to be driven between the base of the wall with the wall and the lath. The remaining gap will then be hidden under a decorative plinth. To understand all the nuances of how to hem a clapboard ceiling, you can watch a video offered by professionals.

When working on interior decoration, use various materials. But, despite modern technologies and developments, lining is in great demand in the building materials market. Today lining is the leader in the sphere of ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how the lining of the ceiling with clapboard occurs on a balcony or any other room.

The advantages of lining include ease of installation, beautiful appearance of natural wood, relatively inexpensive price.

Materials and tools for fastening lining

From the tools you should take:

screwdriver or impact drill;
nails / dowels / screws / self-tapping screws / clamps;
a hammer;
centimeter / tape measure;
building level;
hacksaw for metal;
table and stepladder.

The main elements of the installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for ceiling sheathing is of two types - wooden and metal.

When installing with a wooden frame (crate), you will need:

suspensions for attaching the frame to the ceiling;
wooden bars measuring 40x40 mm, from which the frame is assembled;
self-tapping screws.

Bars for a wooden frame must be perfectly even and intact.

In case of choosing a metal frame, you will need metallic profile from galvanized steel, suspensions, self-tapping screws for metal.

The lining material for the ceiling is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Lining made of wood (pine, linden) is in great demand.

For bathrooms with high humidity and kitchen areas, you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. A wooden lining is also suitable for the kitchen, but it is better to mount it on the base of a metal crate.

Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles are not susceptible to deformation from moist air.

In the bath for ceiling sheathing, natural wooden lining panels are ideal, despite the high degree of humidity in the room.

Preparatory work

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting work on fixing, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.

After eliminating defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with an anti-mold agent. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Mounting

Step 1: Installing the frame

Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with the installation of the frame. Without a crate, lining with a clapboard will not only not hide the flaws in the ceiling surface, but will also emphasize them.

Before installing the crate, the first thing to do is markup. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of the metal frame or the slats of the wooden crate must lie across (i.e. perpendicular to the direction of the lining), with longitudinal direction wagons are the opposite.

The crate must be installed as evenly as possible, otherwise the lining may be skewed. Wooden crate has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But a wooden frame is more suitable for lining the ceiling with a clapboard made of wood.

Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:

If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then the wooden beams are attached directly to the ceiling surface.
Wedges made of wood or plastic should be used to level the frame.
Brackets are first installed on the ceiling and there are already bars to them.

If the ceiling is sheathed with plastic lining panels, then between wooden beams masters recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm. For lining panels made of solid wood the distance between the bars should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.

Installation of a metal crate consists of the following steps:

Take measurements of the height of the room / room at all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
From the selected point, measure a line of 5-10 cm - level.
Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account the established level, the initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fasteners.
Hangers for the profile must be attached to the ceiling surface. Suspension plates are bent downwards.
Metal main profiles are attached to suspensions and initial profiles.
Before the final fastening, you should check the level of the location of all frame profiles.

The choice of crate depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also more expensive than wooden frames.

Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)

Before fixing the lining, you should check the operability of the electrical wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.

Step 3: Lining with clapboard

In the course of work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Since the workflow for each type of lining is similar. The strips (panels) of the lining are cut with a length equal to the length of the ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly even, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with a groove to the corner.

Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat from the wall at a distance of 5 mm.

The final strips of the lining must be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, you can use a small rubber mallet: Carefully tap on the end faces of the panels.

The second side of the panel should be screwed / nailed to the rails of the crate at the bottom of the lock.

In the course of laying the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate exit holes. Otherwise, after completion of work, it is problematic to remove the electrical wiring and you can deform the material.

The process of attaching panels to the ceiling continues until opposite side rooms. The last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven in between the lining panel and the wall.

Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. In the case of using a wooden lining, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, it is necessary to make one even cut on both sides of the panel and carefully break it.

Of the common methods for fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:

fixation with clamps. The use of a special building bracket (kleimer), which is “put on” on the groove of the lining panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with kleimers is suitable for lining made of plastic.
open fixation. This method is used in the case of ceiling sheathing with heavy lining panels. At open method requires at least a minimum of skill and accuracy.
fixing with screws. This method is used, like kleimers, when sheathing with plastic lining panels.

Self-tapping screws or small nails with small caps (or without caps) are used as fasteners in this method. Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort the appearance of the coating. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer them in the center of the panel.

When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the nail head. In this case, you can use a special nail extension (doboynik).

In the process of fastening the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and cracks between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will suffer significantly.

Step 4: Installing skirting boards

In conclusion installation work along the perimeter of the updated ceiling, a decorative plinth (or corners) is installed. The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the trimmed lining strips and give a finished look to the ceiling surface.

Conclusion

The process of attaching the lining to the ceiling is not laborious in itself. A person without experience in repair and finishing work or with a minimum of repair skills.

It is best to fix the lining on the ceiling surface not alone, but with an assistant. So you can significantly reduce the time, make the mount better and even. In addition, it is very difficult and inconvenient to hold the lining panel on your own.

As a result, the lining of the ceiling with a clapboard looks presentable, such a ceiling will please its guests for a long time. perfect view, texture and color.