The ceiling in a private house from the lining. Clapboard ceilings in modern interior design. Step: Clapboard

When working on interior decoration, use various materials. But despite modern technologies and development, lining is in great demand in the market building materials. Today lining is the leader in the sphere of ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how the lining of the ceiling with clapboard occurs on a balcony or any other room.

The advantages of lining include ease of installation, beautiful view natural wood, relatively inexpensive price.

Materials and tools for fastening lining

From the tools you should take:

• screwdriver or impact drill;
• nails / dowels / screws / self-tapping screws / clamps;
• a hammer;
• centimeter / tape measure;
• building level;
• hacksaw for metal;
• table and stepladder.

The main elements of the installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for ceiling sheathing is of two types - wooden and metal.

When installing with a wooden frame (crate), you will need:

• suspensions for attaching the frame to the ceiling;
• wooden bars measuring 40x40 mm, from which the frame is assembled;
• self-tapping screws.

Bars for wooden frame should be perfectly even and intact.

In case of choosing a metal frame, you will need metallic profile from galvanized steel, suspensions, self-tapping screws for metal.

The lining material for the ceiling is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Lining made of wood (pine, linden) is in great demand.

For bathrooms with high humidity and kitchen facilities you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. A wooden lining is also suitable for the kitchen, but it is better to mount it on the base of a metal crate.

Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles are not susceptible to deformation from moist air.

In the bath for ceiling sheathing, natural wooden panels lining, despite the high degree of humidity in the room.

Preparatory work

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting work on fixing, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.

After eliminating defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with an anti-mold agent. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Mounting

Step 1: Installing the frame

Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with the installation of the frame. Without a crate, lining with a clapboard will not only not hide the flaws in the ceiling surface, but will also emphasize them.

Before installing the crate, the first thing to do is markup. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of the metal frame or the slats of the wooden crate must lie across (i.e. perpendicular to the direction of the lining), with longitudinal direction wagons are the opposite.

The crate must be installed as evenly as possible, otherwise the lining may be skewed. Wooden crate has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But a wooden frame is more suitable for lining the ceiling with a clapboard made of wood.

Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:

1. If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then the wooden beams are attached directly to ceiling surface.
2. Wedges made of wood or plastic should be used to level the frame.
3. Brackets are first installed on the ceiling and there are already bars to them.

If the ceiling is sheathed with plastic lining panels, then between the wooden beams the craftsmen recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm. For lining panels made of solid wood the distance between the bars should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.

Installation of a metal crate consists of the following steps:

1. Take measurements of the height of the room / room at all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
2. From the selected point, measure a line of 5-10 cm - level.
3. Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account the established level, the initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fasteners.
4. Hangers for the profile must be attached to the ceiling surface. Suspension plates are bent downwards.
5. Metal main profiles are attached to suspensions and initial profiles.
6. Before the final fastening, you should check the level of the location of all frame profiles.

The choice of crate depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also more high price compared to wood frame.

Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)

Before fixing the lining, you should check the operability of the electrical wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.

Step 3: Lining with clapboard

In the course of work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Since the workflow for each type of lining is similar. Strips (panels) of lining are cut into lengths equal to the length ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly even, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with a groove to the corner.

Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat from the wall at a distance of 5 mm.

The final strips of the lining must be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, it is allowed to use a small rubber hammer: gently tap on the end faces of the panels.

The second side of the panel should be screwed / nailed to the rails of the crate at the bottom of the lock.

In the course of laying the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate exit holes. Otherwise, after completion of work, it is problematic to remove the electrical wiring and you can deform the material.

The process of attaching panels to the ceiling continues to the opposite side of the room. The last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven in between the lining panel and the wall.

Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. In the case of using a wooden lining, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, it is necessary to make one even cut on both sides of the panel and carefully break it.

Of the common methods for fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:

• fixation with clamps. The use of a special building bracket (kleimer), which is “put on” on the groove of the lining panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with kleimers is suitable for lining made of plastic.
• open fixation. This method is used in the case of ceiling sheathing with heavy lining panels. At open method requires at least a minimum of skill and accuracy.
• fixing with screws. This method is used, like kleimers, when sheathing with plastic lining panels.

Self-tapping screws or small nails with small caps (or without caps) are used as fasteners in this method. Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort appearance coatings. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer them in the center of the panel.

When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the nail head. In this case, you can use a special nail extension (doboynik).

In the process of fastening the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and cracks between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will suffer significantly.

Step 4: Installing skirting boards

At the end of the installation work around the perimeter of the updated ceiling, install decorative plinth(or corners). The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the trimmed lining strips and give a finished look to the ceiling surface.

Conclusion

The process of attaching the lining to the ceiling is not laborious in itself. A person without experience in repair and finishing work or with a minimum of repair skills.

It is best to fix the lining on the ceiling surface not alone, but with an assistant. So you can significantly reduce the time, make the mount better and even. In addition, it is very difficult and inconvenient to hold the lining panel on your own.

As a result, the lining of the ceiling with a clapboard looks presentable, such a ceiling will please its guests for a long time. perfect view, texture and color.

Today lining is used for internal and external works. Of particular interest is the use of this finishing material for interior design country houses and city apartments. Let's find out how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, so that the end result will bring joy and satisfaction to the property owner.

Varieties of lining

Among the many materials used for its manufacture, of interest are:

• natural wood;
• plastic

Plastic samples are made in the form of long and narrow rails, supplemented with special docking grooves, which is convenient for fastening. Among positive characteristics plastic material select:

1. Ease of fastening during the finishing process (convenience of working with the material).
2. Ceiling lining hides all the defects on the surface of the ceiling.
3. No corrosion, rotting.
4. Aesthetic appearance.

This material provides additional sound insulation, high-quality insulation, ideal for outdoor and interior decoration.

But the wooden lining ceiling requires special care, special treatment. Installation of such a coating will be much more expensive than a plastic counterpart. The wood has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, therefore, with proper processing, the ceiling will harmoniously fit into general interior premises. The finished wooden coating will be environmentally friendly; such a ceiling can also be made in children's rooms.

Action algorithm

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the tools, without which you can’t make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands. When installing this material you will need:

• wood saw;
• electric drill;
• level;
• rule;
• rubber mallet;
• construction angle;
• roulette

Attention! The material for covering the surface of the ceiling is taken with a margin of 15-20 percent. The calculation of the amount of material that will be required to close the surface must be carried out, taking into account:

• the length of the area to be closed, the width of the rails. If the length is over size rails, over the entire surface you will have to “get” the ceiling, otherwise the external impression will be spoiled.
• keep in mind that the rails are joined together, that is, 2-3 cm are lost during installation.
• most likely you will have to cut the outer rail electric jigsaw to drive it into the groove. It is better to leave 2-3 wooden lining, so that if one of them is damaged, a new rail can be cut.

The algorithm for attaching the lining to the ceiling involves the preparation of a wooden frame from a bar, the thickness of which will be at least 20 mm. The section option is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Ceiling installation

Work begins with the fastening of a wooden frame, which will become the basis of the entire wooden structure. It is on him that the lining of the ceiling is then performed with a clapboard. First you need to calculate exactly where the first typesetting rail should be located. If the wall is uneven, the rail is attached loosely, but with a small margin (5-6 mm), then it can be hidden under the ceiling plinth. In order to qualitatively sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to adjust the width of the last rail, also leave a 5-6 mm gap.

The nuances of mounting the frame

It is optimal to make a wooden frame from a bar 40 by 40, 20 by 40, or 50 by 50 mm. The fastening of the bars, as well as their fixation to the ceiling, walls, is carried out with plastic dowels and nails - screws (8 by 45 mm in size), or anchors and hardened self-tapping screws (4 by 75 mm, for wood). When choosing a metal frame, you will additionally need:

• UD profile for perimeter formation;
• U-shaped mounting options, as well as cross "crab" fasteners;
• self-tapping screws for metal, "fleas" with tips in the form of a drill;
• CD profile for frame

The amount of material that will be required for the work is calculated after a detailed study of the instructions. To nail the lining to the ceiling, you will need construction stapler, nails, self-tapping screws with press washers.

When creating a wooden frame, pay attention to the following points:

1. When adjusting the rails, leave a gap of 4-5 mm along the entire length on both sides to prevent deformation of the material during expansion.
2. Do not try to immediately cut to the entire ceiling surface wooden slats. Fitting in length is individual, and therefore, each new workpiece must be cut out immediately before fastening. This will save materials, but it will take more time to fit.
3. You do not need to fix the workpiece with nails, just insert it into the lock of the previous plank.

If you have any difficulty getting into the lock (grooves), you will need a rubber mallet. With it, you can knock out the attachment point, adjust the rail. Next, the blanks are fastened with self-tapping screws on all frame rails, it is better to fasten in the area of ​​​​the locking border.

Base mounting options

Before starting the arrangement of the ceiling, you need to find the lowest possible area on the ceiling surface. From it retreat down the wall about 6-10 cm, get the initial mark. Similarly, put marks on all four walls, armed with a water (or laser) level. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the entire room, which will correspond to the location of the base.

Advice! If you have chosen only wooden blocks or boards for the base, be sure to pre-coat them with an antiseptic to protect them from decay and increase fire safety.

1 way. Creating a wireframe wooden bars. The bars are fixed perpendicular to the direction of mounting the lining. Between the bars there should be a distance of at least 60-100 cm. Installation is carried out so that the location of the lowest edge is strictly parallel to the floor. You need a level to check. First attached to opposite ends bars of the room, stepping back from the ceiling surface by 10-15 cm. Further, after 60 cm, you need to attach the bars around the entire perimeter of the room using anchors, dowels, or impact screws. If the bar moves away from the ceiling surface, plates made of bars are placed inside. The fishing line is pulled between the bars, they get a guideline for mounting the remaining bars. To increase the strength of the frame, jumpers are made.

2 way. Creation of a base for lining from a metal profile. The algorithm of actions is similar to covering the ceiling surface with drywall. First, a line is drawn throughout the room (along all four walls), which will correspond to false ceiling. Further, the UD profile is fixed with dowels. Then the last two metal CD profiles are attached, and the distance to the wall is taken 10-15 cm, and the direction of attachment is at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining of the lining.

The profile along the entire length is attached to the surface with special fasteners, the fixation frequency is 40-60 cm. The rope is pulled, but not installed, the rest of the profile is fixed. If necessary, to strengthen the base, the installation of crosses is carried out using "crabs". Before fixing the lining is attached electrical wiring for mounting hanging lamps, special places are left for the release electric wire. As soon as the ceiling is sheathed, a wire can be brought out through the holes left, lamps are attached to it.

Lining fastening

Let's find out how to fix the lining to the ceiling. fine finish do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling involves fastening the strips perpendicular to the guides of the finished frame. The choice of direction is carried out taking into account the design features of the room. If the plans include visual extension space, fastening of rails is carried out along the length. When decorating the ceiling surface in wide room, allowed transverse fastening lining, the room will seem smaller. Even when lining the lining immediately to the surface, a crate is necessarily performed. The base of metal specialized profiles designed to fix drywall sheets, significantly reduces the total weight ceiling structure. For kitchens, hallways, it is desirable to use a metal base for lining.

Let's talk about how do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out. As soon as the frame is ready, the MDF blank is cut in strips along the entire length, corresponding to the length between opposite walls minus the gap - 5 cm. To maintain the parallelism of the rails, it is better to install each board separately, checking the location with a level.

Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling sheathing video demonstrates the procedure. The first rail is fixed in length, then attached alternately to the base rails. The distance from the first rail to the wall is assumed to be 3-5 mm. The remaining blanks must first be acute angle put in a groove in a fixed strip, then push it tightly until the “lock” snaps into place. In order for the fixation to be of high quality, gently tap on the end of the inserted strip with a rubber mallet. The second side of the lining is screwed over the lower edge of the lock to the guides of the frame itself, using carnations or self-tapping screws with press washers.

Before fastening the screws, it is better to drill small holes on the strips, in which case the board will not chip. For more information on how to mount the lining on the ceiling, you can watch the video. In order to get patterns from the lining on the ceiling, you can use materials from different tree. The end board is inserted into the castle with the help of small wooden wedges, they need to be driven between the base of the wall with the wall and the lath. The remaining gap will then be hidden under a decorative plinth. To understand all the nuances of how to hem a clapboard ceiling, you can watch a video offered by professionals.

For several years, lining has been used to finish the ceiling surface. Various ways laying panels will transform the room and create a unique original interior. At the same time, it is easy to make a ceiling from a lining on your own if you choose high-quality materials and follow the correct sequence throughout the work.

How to make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands

Choice of materials and tools

The decorative ceiling consists of a frame base and facing material. For mounting the frame, a bar made of wood or a metal profile is used. The base is attached to the walls around the perimeter of the room and to base surface.

If the lining on the ceiling will be installed to a wooden frame, choose a beam with a thickness of 20x40, 40x40 or 50x50 mm. To make the frame even, use wooden or plastic wedges, and hangers to draft ceiling mounted on anchor bolts, the bars to them are fixed on self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the brackets of a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with press washers or special clips, which are used mainly for mounting plastic panels.

If it is intended to build metal carcass you need to purchase:

• galvanized steel profiles;
• suspensions;
• anchor bolts and self-tapping screws for metal;
• connectors.

In addition to materials, the following set of tools will be required for work:

• a hammer;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• water level;
• tape measure, marker or pencil;
• scissors for metal for cutting a metal profile.

For the manufacture of decorative lining metal, natural wood, plastic, aluminum or MDF are used. Wood and MDF panels will support the interior wooden house, plastic lining is suitable for finishing a bathroom or kitchen, and rack structures will help create a modern interior. Based on the functionality of the room, choose suitable type facing panels.

To make the ceiling beautiful and stable, you need to properly prepare. The cladding will cover the base base, however, remove old finish still have to cover.

If there are cracks or other problem areas, they are sealed with a composition of sand and cement, or filled with a special putty. At the final stage of preparation, the ceiling surface is coated with an antifungal primer, which will provide reliable protection from mold.

In private houses, insulation of the floor is additionally organized. For this, different materials are used, which are glued to the base or placed in the cells of a pre-assembled frame, and covered with facing panels from above.

Frame installation

markup

Regardless of what material it is planned to build a decorative ceiling from, the structure must be even. This will require high-quality markup.

First, the level of the future ceiling is determined. An even horizontal line is applied to the walls using an upholstery cord. Ceiling height depends on two factors:

• room height;
• whether lighting devices are supposed to be built into the design, and what their dimensions will be.

Depending on the height of the lamp, they additionally step back from the ceiling: for diodes - by 4 cm, for chandeliers or point devices- 7 cm or more.

If after a while the lining “goes in waves”, then the installation is not mounted correctly. The step of fixing the ceiling profiles depends on what material is used for lining the ceiling from the lining: wooden or plastic panels, MDF boards.

Parallel lines are drawn under the profiles on the base surface. The first and last - 30 cm from the wall, the rest - every 60 cm (for plastic) and every 100 cm (for wood or MDF).

If wooden beams are chosen as the basis for the frame, installation is carried out as follows:

1. first, the tree is covered with a layer of protective impregnation;
2. the bars are fixed in a perpendicular arrangement to the decorative panels;
3. if the ceiling is supposed to be additionally insulated, then regardless of the type of cladding, the distance between adjacent ceiling beams is reduced to 60 cm;
4. two beams are mounted on opposite sides rooms with indents of 30 cm from the walls, the plane is verified with a level;
5. the rest of the bars are fixed along the marked lines. If the thickness of the bars turns out to be different, to ensure an even horizontal line, wooden dies are placed under them;
6. the beam is fixed to the floor with driven dowels, anchors or screws;
7. then pull the fishing line, install the remaining elements of the frame.

To make the base reliable, you can lay transverse bars that will increase the rigidity of the structure. Or carry out additional reinforcement at the installation sites ceiling lights. When the frame is ready, electrical wires are brought to the points where the devices are located.

The metal frame is built according to the same rules as when sheathing the ceiling with plasterboard:

• a guide profile is attached to the horizontal line along the perimeter with dowels and self-tapping screws;
• on opposite sides 30 cm from the walls are fixed ceiling profiles to the floor with adjustable U-shaped hangers. Suspension mounting step - 60 cm;
• a nylon thread is pulled under the frame, along which the remaining elements are mounted. If differences are obtained, the height is adjusted with suspensions;
• additionally reinforce the frame with jumpers mounted using crab-type crosses;
• lead the cable under the lamps.

clapboard lining

The lining for the ceiling made of solid wood or MDF is attached to the frame in the same way:

• first, the lining strip is cut to the required length so that 5 mm of free space remains from the panel to each wall. Then, when the material expands under the influence of adverse factors, the ceiling does not deform. If the walls are uneven, it is better to cut the panels as the frame is facing;
• the first strip along the length is attached to the guide profile, leaving a gap of 3-5 mm on the side. The next panel is brought into the lock of the previous one with a groove at a slight inclination, and pushed into it. To tightly press the lining, tap on the end of the part with a hammer with a rubberized tip. The other side of the plank is screwed to the profile for the lower part of the lock with self-tapping screws (if the frame is made of a metal profile) or nailed (for a wooden beam base);
• when using self-tapping screws, even before installing the lining on the locking part of the strip, holes for fasteners are pre-drilled. If you do this under the ceiling, the lining may break off. When using nails, additional finishing is used so as not to damage the front side of the sheathing material;
• as they are facing, the cable is brought out under the devices, drilling holes in the panels. Thus, they advance to the opposite wall. The last strip is driven into the lock using small wedges driven between the panel and the wall surface.

Often the extreme bar has to be cut in width. Notch on MDF panels or plastic lining is made along the entire length on both sides, then the part is carefully broken. To cut a lining made of solid wood, use a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.

Lining made of plastic is mounted in the same way as from solid wood, leaving gaps from the wall of 3-5 mm. But first, a U-shaped groove is attached around the perimeter, which will hide the ends of the strips of material.

This groove either forms part of the plinth, or is represented by a collapsible design of parts in the shape of the letter "G". The first part is fixed after the frame is installed, and the second, when the ceiling is completely sheathed with plastic.

Since the evenness of the structure has already been set at the installation stage, during the sheathing, you should try to push the panels as tightly as possible into the groove in order to eliminate the formation of gaps.

How to fix false beams to the ceiling from the lining

The use of false beams in the interior is a common type of finish that is used by designers to emphasize different styles and directions. Beams are made of solid wood, plastic, polyurethane, etc. When choosing a suitable product, it is necessary to take into account the reliability of the supporting structure to which the elements will be attached. So, products made of natural wood are heavy, so in the places where the beams are attached, it will be necessary to further strengthen the frame.

It is better to choose polyurethane beams, hollow inside, painted to look like natural wood. They weigh lighter, and will look no worse than natural wood. At the same time, they are well combined with the ceiling from the lining.

In general, beams are not difficult to attach. The main thing is to follow the sequence in the work:

1. side and bottom elements should fit snugly together. To do this, use a planer, with which the end parts of the beams are adjusted. Places of incisions are rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper;
2. special wedges for beams are made of wood. In this case, the wedge must exactly repeat the shape of the beam cavity (trapezoid);
3. during marking, additionally carry out control lines on the side of the beam to provide guidance to the wedges;
4. wedges are installed in the places of the intended location of the beams, screwed onto dowels and screws in increments of 1 m;
5. in the places where the beams are attached to the walls, a little glue is applied to the surface of the base. This will not only provide additional reliability, but also a snug fit of the product, as a result of which it will be possible to eliminate the formation of cracks;
6. a false beam is put on a wedge, screwed with self-tapping screws, the heads of the self-tapping screws are closed with decorative overlays or brackets;
7. if the beam is short, it is joined to the next one, the joint is also masked with a decorative element.

If desired, can be mounted in beams original lighting. For this wiring electric cable they are made in the cavity of the beam, using a protective shell, having previously made holes in the cavity of the wedge-beams. For polyurethane products, the power of the devices is chosen no more than 50 watts.

Final stage

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling does not end only with sheathing. Additionally, the gaps between the ceiling surface and the walls are decorated with a plinth around the perimeter, which is attached to liquid nails, clips or self-tapping screws if the fillet is made of wood.

When to give decorative ceiling a different shade, the lining is varnished or stained desired color. But it is better to do this before attaching the cladding to the frame base.

Lining in modern style The interior is in demand, as the trend towards natural (wood, MDF) and economical (plastic) materials is gaining momentum.

For the manufacture of wooden lining, different tree species are used:

• pine. Distinctive feature- soft brown shades;
• spruce is inexpensive. But at the final stage it is better to paint the sheathed ceilings with varnish to express the surface structure;
• larch - durable, beautiful material resistant to moisture.

The white color of the surfaces is combined with different directions in the interior. For coloring choose oil or acrylic compositions.

Combinations of diagonal stripes of eurolining will make the room sophisticated. Add variety to others decorative elements. For example, moldings or illuminated beams.

Even a plastic lining with a suitable texture and pattern will look unusual and original. Combining the shades of the panels, it will turn out to divide the space into zones.

Designers have come up with many tricks with which the room will acquire an individual character:

• narrow and long strips of lining will visually expand the spatial boundaries of the room;
• strict lines will suit any style;
• if you lay the panels in the form of a lattice, you can reproduce the imitation of beams;
• plastic lining looks great when panels of different widths are used to clad the ceiling;
• the white shade of the ceiling in tandem with golden or silver color will add luxury to the room;
• good in the direction of minimalism or hi-tech will look rack ceiling. The surface looks no less original, where clapboard lining is combined with painting.

Clapboard ceilings are trimmed not only in country houses but also city apartments. The main condition is that in order to obtain a unified interior, you need to maintain one style and choose materials that will be combined with each other.

Video how to fill the lining on the ceiling, drawing squares

Almost all of its history, man has gone hand in hand with wood. This natural material It is used everywhere - including for the construction of residential structures, for their cladding. Wood flooring is not only very durable and aesthetically pleasing, it is also completely environmentally friendly.

Many people ask the question: how can the ceiling be finished in a room. If you want to get a natural solution, it's time to think about how to make a wooden lining ceiling. Compared to plastic counterparts or hardboard, lining is the very material that perfectly tolerates cold and heat.

The choice of lining, its varieties

So finishing wooden clapboard ceiling - what are the features of this process? To begin with, in detail about what a lining is.

This material is a cut board, the thickness of which is not more than 2 cm (sometimes 22 mm). Use lining as for outer cladding different designs, and for internal finishing works.

What else can be noted? Following:

• Often people think this way: since the lining - simple board, you can buy it and immediately nail it to the surface (if the lining of the ceiling is finished exactly to the ceiling), there is nothing difficult about it;
• In fact, this is a big misconception. If you want the lining of the ceiling to be of high quality, you need to know how to work with such material. Choice also matters.

Secrets of choice

To begin with, you need to choose a lining, in order to work with it later. Before buying, the master should know that the finishing material does not have any processing.

That is, if you wish, you can apply the color that you want to it - this is exactly what many people do.

Besides:

• When you want the lining to remain in its natural, natural color, you can apply a simple stain on it;
• This tool works as follows: it provides protection to the tree, while effectively emphasizing its structure;
• Finishing with wooden clapboard may include applying varnish or paint to the material. If the wood is not processed, it will deform as it dries, this is a fact.

When choosing, you should carefully examine the back of the material: there should be two grooves. They are required in order for ventilation to be carried out without any problems. Otherwise, in the future, the material may “lead”, which is definitely not needed by anyone.

Lining and its class

Finishing a wooden clapboard ceiling is a responsible job. Before starting the process, the master must understand that such material has different classes.

The lining is divided into:

1. A class;
2. B class;
3. They also allocate an Extra class.

From each other, all these classes differ in the number of knots, their presence and the quality of such elements.

Immediately the question which class has the most knots? Everything is simple here - in B class. In addition, it is useful for the master to know the following: in the material of this class there may be knots that are "inanimate".

• That is, during use, they can easily fall out;
• Because of this, not very aesthetic holes are formed on the surface of the ceiling (or other surface for which lining was used);
• Therefore, class B is not recommended to be used for lining the ceiling with clapboard.

And what can be said about the "A" class of material? Here everything is as follows:

• There are an order of magnitude fewer knots here, any of them will be “live”;
• These knots will definitely not fall out during operation, so that holes will not be formed on the surface;
• Therefore, a ceiling made of wooden lining of this class is a very good, thoughtful and economic solution.

But with all this, most aesthetic option ceiling is obtained when lining "Extra" class is used. This is sometimes called euro-material. Everything here is going to be top notch.

• The peculiarity of this class is that there are no knots on the lining at all;
• Therefore, such material is often chosen for lining in saunas, baths;
• The logic is simple: if there are no knots, then they are guaranteed not to fall out. Accordingly, there will be no new holes in the finishing material - heat will be stored as efficiently as possible;
• It’s a completely different moment - how to finish the ceiling in the house with eurolining. Here they work in much the same way as with simple material, some cardinal differences cannot be called in the installation process.

What is suitable for a couple

In the case when the ceiling lining in the steam room is what needs to be done, perfect option – .

It is explained like this:

• The material responds well even to high temperatures copes well with excess moisture;
• The cost of the material varies greatly - it all depends on the class;
• When choosing a lining for finishing the ceiling, they first pay attention to the class of the material, after which they look at the price.

If you only chase favorable prices, you can very seriously miscalculate - which will eventually lead to serious additional costs. It will be necessary to redo the skin - you will have to spend money on additional materials, this is definitely not required by anyone.

Raw lining or processed - what to choose

To date, both processed material and unprocessed material are on sale. If you want to finish the wooden lining of the ceiling, then what is better to choose?

Experienced craftsmen advise making a choice in favor of raw material.

Everything is simple here:

1. When the lining is untreated, if necessary, it can always be painted in the desired color;
2. Many are specially purchased with just such material - in order to preserve the natural shade, natural texture: it looks very nice in the interior;
3. Also, the sale often comes with material that was processed in production, but at the same time the process itself was performed with serious violations of technology;
4. Another point: when the material is stored, mistakes are often made. The point here is not only optimal temperature to save the lining;
5. There is also a place for simple negligence: the laying was not done evenly, some not very smooth surface was chosen as a place for storage.

The consequence of all this is that the whole batch turns out to be crooked, such material will definitely not work if it is necessary that the decoration of the wooden lining of the ceiling turn out to be aesthetic.

Interesting Facts:

• Sometimes, when the lining is untreated, and something of the above has happened to it, it is simply allowed to lie down - it almost always straightens;
• The dyed material will not straighten out - it will remain exactly the same as it was, the defects will remain;
• Because of this, there will be problems during the upcoming installation work.

Details about installation: tricks, secrets, instructions

So, with the lining class, everything has been decided, the material has been selected. Now the matter is small - it is necessary to install it: finish the ceiling, because it was for this that the whole process was started. Here, too, you need to act cautiously, in stages.

The material must be acclimatized

When the lining is delivered, you should not immediately attach it to the surface. Installation of lining on the ceiling is performed only when the material has acclimatized, “got used” to the room.

The ideal solution: let the material stay in the room for at least two days after delivery - then subsequent work with it will be performed without problems.

This whole operation is needed so that the boards do not “drive” after finishing. This often happens when they work quickly, in a hurry to carry out the installation.

Arrangement of the crate

Where do they start installation work? That's right, first you need to make a crate. Usually slats are used for this - then the lining will be fixed on them.

This is how they work here:

• You need to cut the frame slats into pieces - to get the elements of the desired length. It is necessary to achieve the following: so that the slats are located exactly from one wall to another - while having a perpendicular direction relative to the lining;
• The frame rails are attached to the carriers ceiling beams(or to floor slabs). A lot depends on what the material of the ceiling in the room is;
• The distance between the rails is selected depending on the dimensions of the purchased finishing material.

And the installation itself. It does not matter in which house the crate is being made - in wood, concrete or brick, you first need to find the lowest point on the ceiling.

• When this point is found, starting from it, the crate is installed;
• When installing each rail, the master must carefully observe the horizontal location of this element - the building level will help in such work (in general, it is not recommended to get down to business without such a tool);
• In the case when the ceiling is far from ideal, planks, elements from the rails can be placed under the crate;
• Self-tapping screws with the required length are ideal for fastening;
• Namely: a suitable self-tapping screw should pass without problems not only through the rail, but also through a special lining;
• Much depends on how evenly the crate will be fixed. More precisely, the final result of all the work depends on this.

How to proceed, if the height difference is very large?

• Here it is appropriate to use suspensions. The most common ones are suitable - which are used when mounting profiles for drywall sheets. It turns out reliable, convenient - at the same time very high quality. Any master will confirm this.

Providing vapor barrier

After the construction of the crate for finishing the ceiling with clapboard, you need to think about everything related to vapor barrier. Even if .

Here the work is done as follows:

• When the floor beams are made of wood, they must be pierced with a construction stapler - thereby the vapor barrier layer is shot. And if the surface is made of concrete, then they are glued with some kind of adhesive;
• It is customary to overlap all the joints of the vapor barrier material. 100 mm overlap is enough - there is no need for large indicators;
• It is important to glue the joints along the length with construction double-sided tape;
• It is best to carefully read the instructions before undertaking the installation of a vapor barrier - so that the material is guaranteed to be on the right side. This moment is very important, the quality of the entire surface finish with wooden clapboard depends on it.

Working with joints

The vapor barrier is laid - you can take up the installation of the finishing material to the ceiling surface. If the work is carried out in a house made of wood, while the structure is new, it is better to leave some gap between the walls and the lining: 1.5-2 cm is enough.

This is required in order to compensate for the shrinkage of the house - after construction, it will definitely be observed for two to three years.

The length of the material is joined in two ways:

1. This is done either in a checkerboard pattern;
2. Or they do a "butt to butt".

Another interesting point: experienced craftsmen they advise beginners - wiring should be done before mounting the lining on the ceiling.

Mounting methods

If we consider such interesting topic, like finishing the ceiling with a clapboard, it is impossible not to touch on the following question: how is the fastening made. To fix such material, self-tapping screws are usually chosen.

Also, nails can be used here. There are also special mounts They are called kleimers.

Here everything happens like this:

• The kleimer slides into the groove of the lining;
• He is carefully knocked out until he gains full grip with the board;
• After the kleimer is attached to the crate - with screws or nails;
• When the master is going to use nails, it is also better to have a doboy on hand. Due to this, the edge of the board will always be protected from accidental impact - this often happens when working with a hammer.

This is done as follows: a finisher is attached to the head of the nail (when it is already half hammered), then they hit the finisher directly with a hammer - and the nail fully enters. Which is what is required.

A perfectly reasonable question what is the disadvantage of nails?

Here is the thing:

• The use of nails is a traditional method. The product is inserted into the groove somewhere at an angle of 40 degrees - after that it is driven in with a hammer until the element reaches the middle;
• Then you can use a doboynik - drive a nail to the end;
• What negative side such a method? The fact is that the edge of the groove of the lining can always be deformed - and even the doboynik here will not give a guarantee of protection one hundred percent;
• Someone will say that the defect will be insignificant, it will not even be noticeable from the outside. Perhaps this is so, but quality plating clapboard ceiling with this approach will definitely not work;
• There are craftsmen who specifically make special metal elements needed to protect the boards from accidental hammer impact;
• Such a device is placed on a board and is a kind of shield. When the nail is driven in, it is removed, then installed in a new place - and so on, step by step, to the end;
• Another disadvantage of the method is the presence of lubrication. On sale today, nails usually come in a special lubricant. When work is being done, the master's gloves get dirty quickly, as do his hands. If you touch a blank board with such a hand that has no processing, its appearance will suffer significantly. Then you have to work extra - remove the dirt with sandpaper.

The use of screws is also worth mentioning separately.:

1. If kleimers are not used in the lining of the ceiling, it is best to fasten with screws - this is better than nails;
2. An opinion may arise that in order to fasten a lining board with screws, it will have to be pre-drilled - otherwise the material will simply crack;
3. In fact, this is a delusion - a lot depends on the diameter of the self-tapping screws / screws.

As a rule, products are chosen for fastening, the length of which is 2.5 cm, and the diameter is 2.5-3 mm. The head of such a screw has a diameter of 6 mm - definitely no less.

• If you want to use just such an element, you will actually need to pre-drill a hole, otherwise the material will crack;
• But the master can always choose products of a different size, fortunately, there are all kinds of screws on sale today;
• A great option: choose screws, the diameter of which is 2-2.3 mm, the length is 25 mm;
• In such an element, the cap has a smaller diameter - about 5 mm.

It would seem that the difference with the "destructive" version is only five millimeters. In fact, in cladding, even such a tiny indicator has a very importance. Even visually, such screws differ from each other - what can we say about the impact on the lining, which is attached to the ceiling surface.

What are the advantages of screws

Clapboard ceiling decoration: photos and videos are something that you should definitely study carefully. Such materials will help to do the work efficiently, competently. For example, see the video below.

What about screws?:

• With them, you can make a mount without any preliminary drilling at all - nothing will crack, you should not even worry about it. The lining that is on sale, such screws are those materials that are ideally suited to each other;
• Another important advantage of screws over the same nails is that the lining can always be dismantled from the ceiling;
• Screws are easily removed when needed. And this may be required in a situation where repairs are being made. Nail without negative consequences for its environment it will definitely not be possible to remove it.

common misconception, because of which many refuse screws:

• Often people think that the cap of such an element simply will not allow the crest of the subsequent lining to fall into the groove. You don't have to worry about this;
• If the board is made correctly, there will be enough space for the screw head to fit properly;
• When the lining is made in accordance with the technology, there must be a gap inside when connecting;
• To protect your work from mistakes, when purchasing material, you just need to attach two boards to each other. If there is a gap inside, the products are definitely made correctly. If there is no gap, it is worth choosing another material for purchase;
• Such a gap is definitely needed, because it is worth remembering about linear expansion. Otherwise, the entire coating on the ceiling is deformed - and repairs will have to be made.

The conclusion is simple: there is definitely enough space for a screw - you don’t need to worry about it.

A little advice: it is better to refrain from purchasing screws in certain construction markets. To do this, it is better to visit a specialized hypermarket - here the products will definitely be of high quality, standardized.

Clapboard ceilings look simply chic, in a modern style and emphasize individual design rooms. The characteristic stripes that form as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious, and the ceilings are perfectly even.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with it and in fact everyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of frame for the ceiling

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate the uneven and ugly surface from your future new ceilings. Also, the frame will allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the whole structure with good strength.

The lining on the ceiling is sewn on top of the frame, so in any case you will need a crate, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is made much easier than the frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use both and simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and on the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen, it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and the finishing material - lining can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be an excellent solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of mounting the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Clapboard - panel

Simulates a normal wooden beam and has more simple form. It comes in both wood and plastic.

eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology contributes better ventilation room, drainage of moisture and various fumes. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration, it is used more often than Lining-Calm, since eurolining is much cheaper in cost.

Clapboard - Calm

The material has a perfectly smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front of the board. It is used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Clapboard - American

Simulates laying boards with an overlap, as a result of which the junction between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used in outdoor decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with clapboard, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your clapboard ceilings are impeccable.

• Ordinary hammer.
• Screwdriver, or drill with a chipper.
• and building area.
• Accurate roulette.
• Jigsaw or hacksaw.
• Scissors for metal, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for the ceilings from the lining must be selected according to the calculations made earlier. A beam for a wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the beam, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will also hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 bars.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the bars, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here already family budget will be much more devastated. Since the number of components of the frame will increase much and you will need additionally:

• Guide profile - UD.
• The profile underlying the frame is CD.
• Mounts "Crab" and "P" - shaped mounts.
• Self-tapping screws for metal.

To mount the lining itself on the frame, you can use a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then ordinary nails can be used.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall by 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using a water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will verify the horizontal position of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary in advance and to increase fire safety.

Wooden bars are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material will be PVC panels, then the pitch of the bars should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only refined, but also improved, for example:, then in this case the step between the bars should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” mineral wool or other heat and soundproofing material They are also 60 cm wide. The bottom edge of all bars should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the bars. Be sure to use the water level.

Along two walls we fasten two beams with different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. we clearly align the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the bars. Next, with a step of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the bars, checking our work using the level in different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to put wooden linings, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining along it.

If you are not sure about the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional transverse bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. It can be strengthened and only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to install all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That's the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, the metal profile for creating various kinds of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its mounting system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for hinged single-level ceilings from drywall. So I don't really want to repeat myself.

Lining made of wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards must be prepared and cut to size identical to the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lining lamella for a specific place.

Important! If you plan to mount the wall paneling on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, then be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, then you need to use doboy so that the hammer does not damage the lock and the front of the board.

When your lining ceiling is in the process of being set, it is necessary to mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. After the ceiling is ready, it will be more difficult to cut holes, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly knocking, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along the entire length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, you should not put the lining on the glue, since you will already have a durable and strong construction.

Plastic lining

Mounting principle plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The main difference will only be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now often made ceiling plinths, which already initially have this groove. There are also collapsible design in the shape of the letter "G", which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before sheathing the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finish. As a result general level ceiling will be determined by the pre-assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all strips fit more closely to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the junctions.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to fix a corner or decorative plinth around the perimeter of your new ceiling. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The plinth is usually mounted liquid nails. There are also special clips.

If there is a desire, then the lining can be varnished in several layers, as well as with the help of stain to give required ceiling shade. And only after that you can enjoy the view of your ceiling, the work on which can be considered completely finished. The ceiling from the lining is not only decorative ornament rooms, but also a lighter finish option.