A suspended plasterboard ceiling allows you to hide all the irregularities of the floor slabs and passing communications. GKL is easy to cut and even bend, which simplifies installation ceiling structure with your own hands. A single-level ceiling is considered easier to manufacture. If you need to visually enlarge the room or divide it into work areas, you will have to resort to the installation of a multi-level structure.
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials.
Of the tools you will need:
From the materials you will need:
In addition to standard and moisture-resistant drywall, there are gypsum-fiber sheets, as well as moisture-fire-resistant plasterboard. For the manufacture of suspended ceilings in dry rooms suitable standard drywall. In rooms with increased level humidity, for example, a bathroom or kitchen must use moisture-resistant plasterboard. Other types of drywall for home suspended ceilings are rarely used.
Production of a single-level false ceiling
It is easiest for an inexperienced person to make a single-level ceiling on their own.
There are several advantages to this design:
- In case of subsidence of the foundation of the house, appearance single-level ceiling will remain unchanged;
- Suspended structures take up a lot of space. A single-level model in this regard outperforms a multi-level ceiling;
- Ease of installation and less cost for the purchase of materials determines the main advantage of a single-level design over a multi-level counterpart.
The disadvantages include, perhaps, the impossibility of zoning the room, but this is easily corrected by a combination of different lighting fixtures.
Preparatory work and marking
The installation of the suspended ceiling frame is started before finishing walls, but at this stage they should already be perfectly aligned. If the ceiling has old finish, it is completely removed, and all lighting fixtures are removed.
The markings for the frame start from the walls where it will be installed. start profile. With a tape measure, measurements are made from floor to ceiling in all four corners of the room, as well as in the center of each wall. The starting point of the markup is the most low angle rooms. If the suspended structure is supposed to be with built-in lighting fixtures, a distance of 90–100 mm is marked from the ceiling to the attachment point of the starting profile. The absence of built-in appliances allows you to reduce the distance to 50 mm.
The following marks are placed in two opposite corners of the room from the starting markup point. Now these points must be connected with lines, and they must be strictly parallel to the floor. So, at this stage, we got two walls with a marking line for attaching the starting profile. The last point is placed in the fourth corner of the room, drawing lines from it to two opposite corners.
On all four walls, the markings for the starting profile are ready and it is time to draw the grid for attaching the ceiling profile. 
The first mark the lines of attachment of the longitudinal guide profile. The distance between the lines depends on the location of the GKL sheets. If longitudinal fastening of drywall is provided, then the step between the profile is maintained by 400 mm. When laying sheets transversely, the pitch is increased to 600 mm.
The last to mark the transverse lines. Here they maintain a step of 500 mm. At the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines, holes are made for attaching suspensions.
The video talks about marking a single-level ceiling:
To make the ceiling perfectly even, it is best to use a laser level during marking and making the frame.
Assembling a frame from a profile
The markup is ready, it's time to connect the frame elements. 
Performing work on the installation of the frame, adhere to the following sequence:
If everything is fine with the frame, you can proceed to plasterboard sheathing.
The video shows the method of simplified installation of the frame in a large room:
Production of a multi-level false ceiling
The supporting base of a multi-level ceiling is the frame of the first level suspended ceiling we have already considered. All subsequent levels of the protruding structure are distinguished by a smaller area relative to the previous tier. If we take, for example, a three-level ceiling, then the third tier will be the smallest in size, and its bearing base there will be a frame of the second tier.
The advantage of a multi-level ceiling is more justified from the design side. Various differences made on the ceiling, the figures change the geometry of the room. Designers, thus, zone the room, create the illusion of increasing space, combine the lighting of different parts of the room with built-in lighting fixtures.
Among the disadvantages of a multi-level ceiling, one can single out the complexity of mounting the frame, high costs for materials, and big weight already finished design.
Marking and frame manufacturing
So, the first level is ready, now it's time to build the second tier. Let's look at the box example. It is usually made up to 500 mm wide, and the height depends on the design project.
The manufacturing process of the second tier consists of the following steps:
After connecting all the elements, the frame of the second level is considered ready. All subsequent tiers are made using a similar technology.
The video tells how to assemble the second tier of the ceiling:
Sheathing the frame with drywall
Drywall fastening begins after the installation of all communications and the distribution of electrical wiring. The sheets are cut out on the floor, if necessary, holes for recessed fixtures are cut out with a crown. GKL is quite fragile, and it is better to lift large fragments to a height with an assistant. 
Sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws in steps of 100-150 mm. A gap of about 2 mm is left between the joints, and the drywall ends themselves are cut off with a planer at an angle of 45 o. At the end of the fastening of all fragments of the GKL, the joints are sealed with a reinforcing mesh and putty, and the caps of the self-tapping screws are simply covered with the same solution. Edges of internal and outside corners structures are protected by metal perforated corners.
Suspended ceiling is ready. Now it remains to puttied, sanded and can be painted or wallpapered. As you can see, it is possible to make a drywall construction with your own hands, you just need to make every effort.
Finishing ceiling area traditionally plunges the homeowner into an abyss of doubts and contradictions. Today, a variety of materials and technologies, design possibilities so varied that it is quite difficult to decide on something specific.
Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings
Drywall - one of the materials marked by high popularity Russian population. Undoubtedly, plasterboard ceilings have disadvantages because nothing is perfect in the world. Let's remember them without secrets so that your decision to hang drywall over your head is conscious:
- lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling film);
- rather high flammability (in the event of a fire, drywall supports a flame);
- incompatibility with water (drywall is contraindicated in basements, in bathrooms, etc.).
However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with the fire resistance and water resistance of some modifications addressed specifically for rooms with high humidity and increased ignition factor. Shops offer standard, moisture-resistant, and fire-resistant drywall.
Advantages:
Tools and materials for the upcoming work
Prepare your tools ahead of time so you don't get distracted or fussy. Name list different masters is somewhat different, because in the repair and construction business, as you know, dexterity decides a lot, the ability to use what is available, not to depend on frills. Nevertheless, there is the main thing, without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:
- drywall;
- seam tape ("serpyanka");
- guide profiles;
- powerful dowels for attaching profiles to walls;
- ceiling profiles;
- self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
- roulette;
- construction knife;
- a hammer;
- ceiling hangers;
- anchor bolts for attaching suspensions to the ceiling;
- docking "crabs";
- goggles, anti-dust mask (respirator);
- laser or hydraulic level for measuring the entire room;
- bubble level (ideally if its length is 2 meters) for measuring areas;
- screwdriver;
- puncher with a drill (it will be required for dowel fastening of profiles to walls and ceiling);
- metal scissors.
This is the minimum you can't do without. The list may also include additional elements taking into account the features of the "native" ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the floors is hard concrete of a rough batch, in which there are hard stones that prevent normal drilling of holes for fixing screws. Or let's say you want to install a complex multilevel ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the supporting profiles on different height. And so on.
Frame preparation - measurements and fasteners
We work with the guide frame
Step 1. We find the lowest corner in the room by measuring all the corners for this, and ideally also the center. We use a roll. In the corner that will be the lowest, we put a label:
- 7-9 cm from the ceiling, if you plan to install built-in lights;
- by 4-5 cm if there are no built-in lights.
Step 2. We arm ourselves with a hydraulic level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark on the lowest corner. Then, using the hydraulic level, we put several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point on each corner, connect them together - draw with a pencil or chalk.
Use a ruler, a perfectly flat chopping block, or a stretched cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option - without drawing, but point out the guide line for attaching the profile.
Step 3 We fix the guide profile to the walls. If butt joints are supposed on the runs between the corners (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to insure the further "driving" of adjacent fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, tin or plastic - and, putting them on top of the butt joint, attach to the walls with high-strength dowels.
Sometimes in such situations they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not in all regions stores sell such goods. We do the same (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) at the corners of the profile.
Video - Installation of a frame from profiles and suspensions
We work with the main ceiling profile
Step 1. The most common dimensions of drywall are 1.2x2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - in this way, each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk lines with a 40-centimeter step.
Step 2. In the places of the transverse junction of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m) we install jumpers from the same profile. At custom sizes drywall, respectively, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. We fix the joints with “crabs”.
Step 3. Determine the location of the hangers: from the first wall, a distance of 25 cm, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling zone. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling with anchor bolts(dowels are not suitable, because they do not have a thread and under the weight of the structure, over time, they will inevitably “pull out” due to attraction to the ground).
Step 4 We fix the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Now our frame is ready.
Initially remember important nuances: gypsum board is sensitive to deformation, temperature and humidity changes during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and also before starting installation work the material should be “aged” for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this adapts the drywall structure to local temperature and humidity conditions.
Sequencing:
- pre-calculate the consumption of material;
- we cut the necessary parts for those places where less than a whole sheet is required;
- chamfer on the edge with a construction knife so as to further ensure good penetration putties in the gap;
- attach sheets to ceiling profile we start from the wall and from the corner, we place the screw from the edge by 10-15 cm and 20 cm from each other;
Attention! We must “sink” the screw heads in the sockets, check by touch. On adjacent sheets, we place the screws not against each other, but apart;
- make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
- we make sure that the sheet is joined to the sheet with a shift of at least one cell;
- make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.
The final stage
The seams must be given Special attention, because the appearance of the future ceiling depends on the quality of their embedding.
Important points:
When working with dust, primer, putty and paint, do not forget to use protective equipment. Wear goggles, a respirator, a mask. Taking precautions will keep you healthy and enhance the joy of the plasterboard ceiling you install yourself.
A perfectly flat ceiling is not a luxury, but a vital necessity.
In thousands of apartments today you can see untidy seams and drops from carelessly laid floor panels. Without installing a false ceiling, it is impossible to hide them. In a new house, such a design is a mandatory option, without which a modern interior is unthinkable.
Multilevel suspended structures, photos of which are posted on the Internet, seem unthinkably difficult to a beginner in execution. However, in fact suspended ceiling from drywall mounted quite simply.
For the success of this work, you will need an accurate calculation of the amount of all materials, a design sketch and minimum set tool.
What is required to install a false ceiling?
Since any false ceiling consists of a frame and cladding, the first thing to do is to calculate and buy these materials. The frame of the plasterboard ceiling is standard and minimal in terms of the number of parts.
It consists of the following elements:
- Start profile - UD;
- The main (bearing profile) - CD;
- Direct suspensions;
- Dowel;
- (ceiling).
If necessary (determined by the size of the room), this list will need to be supplemented with single-level “crab” connectors and profile extensions.
The task of the "crabs" is the connection of perpendicularly joined profiles. They are used when the ceiling has a large area. Here, transverse joints are added to the longitudinal joints of the sheets.
If you want to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway, then you will not need "crabs". When installing the sheathing in the hall or bedroom, there will be nothing to fasten the short sides of the sheets. Therefore, the transverse slats of the frame are complemented by longitudinal ones. To assemble such a crate, you will need single-level crab connectors.
Logically, if there are single-level ones, then there must be two-level "crabs"? Yes, such fasteners exist, but they are used to connect profiles running at different heights (in multi-level ceiling systems).
For the first time, you do not need to take on complex structure. It is best to understand the technology and "fill your hand" on a simple single-level ceiling.
Before starting installation, it is very useful to make a sketch future design . It will help you calculate required amount profile and fasteners. For example, consider drawing up a sketch plan for a false ceiling for a kitchen. We measure the room and move it dimensions on a sheet of paper.
With such a sketch, one can easily calculate all necessary materials for the frame with an accuracy of one self-tapping screw. In addition, the frame diagram will help to accurately install drywall, without hitting its edge into the empty gap of the crate. To do this, the step of the carrier profile must be chosen so that the edges of the drywall sheets (length 2.5 and width 1.2 meters) fall on it, and they can be fixed with self-tapping screws.
The first two profiles are placed from the wall at a distance of 15-20 cm less than the step of ordinary planks. This is necessary to strengthen the extreme sections of the frame, which rely only on a weak starting rail.
Since it directly affects the design of the frame, add all the necessary details to the sketch in advance (mounting points stretch ceiling, endings of "steps", curvilinear sections, etc.)
Tools and work steps
High-quality installation of drywall on the ceiling will not be possible if there is no necessary tool. Since the main part of the work is related to cutting and fastening steel profile, installing drywall sheets, then you will need:
- perforator;
- Bulgarian;
- metal scissors;
- cordless screwdriver;
- construction knife.
Of the measuring devices, you need to purchase a rule (2 meters), a normal and water level, a tape measure and a pencil. If you buy a laser level instead of a water level, then the installation preparation stage will be much easier.
An independent installation of a plasterboard ceiling can only be started after careful marking. First you need to “beat off” a horizontal line (horizon level) along the perimeter of the room. It will set the start profile. In order to find this line, you need to determine the distance of the false ceiling indent from the ceiling.
design without spotlights it is enough to lower it by only 4-5 cm. If lamp lighting is installed in drywall, then a gap of at least 8 cm will have to be left for it in the above-ceiling space.
Since the height of the ceilings, even in one room, is a variable value, we will have to find the lowest point in it, from which we will set aside the distance of the indentation (lowering) of the suspended structure. To do this, measure the height of the ceiling in four corners and in the middle of the room.
Then we set aside the lowest height on the wall with a tape measure and fix it with a pencil mark. After that, the resulting point must be transferred to all walls and connected with a common horizontal line. In the course of this work, we will see the advantages of the laser over the water hose of the hydraulic level.
One cannot manage a water device alone. One person should hold the ampoule with divisions at the starting mark, and the other should put the second one against the adjacent wall. The water level in the connected graduated ampoules is the same, so the horizon mark is determined quickly on the second wall.
Using laser level the process will be easier. We put it in the middle of the room and put it in working position. Then we draw a beam along all the walls and make marks. The distance from the initial (base) point, which fixes the bottom of the ceiling, is measured with a tape measure and sequentially put it up from the line “drawn” by the laser.
Now it remains to connect all the points using a long rule. Along this line, we will fix the bottom of the starting profile and get a belt for installing the supporting frame. Note that more complex two-level ceilings are laid out in exactly the same way.
After mounting the starting metal strips, we proceed to attach the suspensions. To do this, you need to wear goggles and a respirator so that dust does not get into your eyes and lungs. Direct suspensions are placed at marked points and fastened with dowels. Carrier bars (CD) are fixed to them, leading them into the starting profile and into the gap between the bent "whiskers" of the suspension.
Having fixed the profile to the suspension on both sides, the ends of the "whiskers" are bent.
The result of the work done will be a solid trellis frame, ready for fixing drywall and further finishing.
Since the dimensions of the ceiling very rarely coincide with the whole number of sheathing sheets, then part of the drywall will have to be cut. First we fix the whole sheets. This work requires the participation of at least 2 people.
By approaching the other edge of the frame, we can accurately determine the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The junction of the sheathing to the walls does not need to be done back to back. It is better to leave a small gap (0.5-1 cm). It will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material and will be closed with a ceiling plinth (baguette).
Self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall carefully, slightly deepening the hat into the material. Finishing putty will completely hide these points.
We set the drywall so that the joints of the sheets fall in the middle of the profiles. At the same time, they need to be joined by sides that have special recesses for reinforcing tape (sickles) and puttying.
The long sides of the sheets that do not have such joints are prepared for puttying, cutting (embroidering) the edges with a construction knife.
After the joints of the sheathing are closed with reinforcing tape, further finishing of the ceiling consists in puttying the seams and installation points for self-tapping screws.
After completing this work, you need to let the putty dry to next day. Then you can start grouting the seams with an emery cloth, and then prime the drywall and apply a solid layer on it. finishing putty(1-2 mm thick). The starting one is not required here, since the surface of the sheets is very even. You need to putty the entire surface at once, without long breaks, so that there are no cracks.
After finishing the finish, it is given 4-5 days to dry, after which it is sanded and primed. The work is completed by painting the surface with a roller or spray gun. If you decide to paste over the suspended ceiling with wallpaper, then he does not need solid putty and polishing. Texture roll material well hides small irregularities.
What better will help you figure out how to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands - video instruction or detailed description with pictures and diagrams? Perhaps it does not hurt to study both, which we suggest you do.
Types of plasterboard ceilings
Drywall is versatile building material, which allows you to use it to create the most unusual and variety of designs interior. Plasterboard suspended structures will easily fit into any project, made in any style.
So how do you make your own plasterboard suspended ceiling? Next, we will analyze all the stages in detail, and now a little about what plasterboard ceilings are.
Conditionally suspended drywall constructions can be divided into the following types:
- Ordinary single-level, which are designed to hide all sorts of flaws in the rough surface;
Conclusion
You can additionally watch the video in this article to better understand the installation technology of such ceilings. Even better is to watch the process “live”, having the opportunity to ask the master questions.
But in principle, any person who knows how to hold construction tools and not afraid of dusty work.
Plasterboard ceilings can be made with least loss room height of 10 cm, if you use special metal profiles. At the same time, it is possible to insulate the ceiling if the apartment is located on the top floor of the building, as well as to enhance sound insulation. Even greater space savings are possible if the GKL is attached not to the profile, but to the crate made of durable wooden slats. When making false ceilings from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to prepare materials and tools in advance.
In order to accurately know the consumption of plasterboards, suspensions, transverse elements, it is necessary to mark the ceiling. This preparatory moment will allow you not to make mistakes in the calculations.
Marking the ceiling and purchasing consumables
The marking begins with the location of the longitudinal suspension elements. In order for the frame not to go to the side, it is necessary to measure the length of the opposite walls. If their length at the ceiling is the same, then there are no problems with the sequence of longitudinal markings. It can be started by retreating 20-30 cm from the wall.
Advice! If there is a difference, then you need to find the middle of the room. To do this, you need to mark the middle on opposite walls and connect them with straight lines. At the intersection of the segments will be the middle of the room.
Relative to the middle, segments of 60 cm + profile width are laid in both directions along the share. In a similar way, the places of the transverse elements of the frame are marked. The step between them is 50 cm. Accordingly, the distance between the profiles must be strictly 60 cm. Other cell sizes are also possible. 
Drywall material is not light, so the size of the cells cannot be large. The frequency of intersections of metal suspensions also affects the rigidity of the frame.
It is better to take hanging profiles with a margin so as not to cut longitudinal elements from scraps. Larger residues will go to the transverse elements. Measurements of the length of the walls will allow you to determine the size of the guides. 
You will need self-tapping screws, bolts and drywall for work. The consumption of the base material is calculated by the area of the required coating. The fewer small elements, the more accurately the plane will turn out, which means that finishing work will create the appearance monolithic slab ceiling. 
Work Tools
Most working tools are interchangeable. When compiling a list of the necessary, it is better to proceed from the existing home, your own tool:
- To mark the ceiling, you will need a tape measure, a marker, a long, even stick, and a building level.
- In the preparation of holes for frame fasteners, a puncher is required. In extreme cases, you can use an impact drill. Concrete drills with pobedite tips ( desired diameter) must be kept in stock.
- The work will use screws for metal and drywall. Not necessarily their heads will match. You will need a screwdriver with a set of bits.
- To cut drywall, you will need a fine-toothed hacksaw and a construction knife.
- For processing slices, an ordinary fine grater and fine sandpaper are useful.
- For finishing work, you will have to stock up on gypsum putty and masking tape.
Advice! To make drywall ceilings with your own hands, you need to be patient and enlist the help of a friend or relative. It is impossible to do all the work alone.
Frame installation instructions
Most necessary element frame - guides, they are mounted on the wall. Their installation must be approached with special responsibility. They must be placed strictly horizontally. mandatory requirement to install a false ceiling without distortion. For this, the marking of the walls is carried out using a laser level. 
You can also markup using the usual building level and plumb lines, but it will be longer and more difficult for an inexperienced master. Therefore, if you undertake this procedure without practice, then for the correctness of actions it is worth not only reading the information on the topic, but it will also not be superfluous step-by-step instruction with video tutorials.
Having fixed metal guides on the wall, you can proceed with the installation of suspensions. These can be "U"-shaped metal brackets with several levels of mounting holes, knitting needles with threaded ends or a strong metal wire fixed on hooks screwed into the ceiling. 
The last option applies to homemade design plasterboard ceiling, as well as possible. In the process, this design looks creepy, but it is the wire that gives the best results in adjusting the profile height for a plasterboard suspended ceiling. The main thing is that the twist is reliable.
Of course, factory made special mounts for profiles they look more attractive, but they are good for ceilings that do not have large differences in height. And if the house gave an uneven draft, then there can be no talk of a flat plane of the ceiling. Rigid mounts will not help to hide the warp. A threaded needle gives the best effect.
How to install suspensions on your ceiling, and what kind they should be, everyone decides on their own. An interesting option with two height adjustment options, it consists of threaded hooks with dowels, to which a thick aluminum wire is attached.
After fixing all the elements of the longitudinal profile in the suspensions, it is the turn of fastening the short transverse elements. Alignment of profiles in height is carried out using the building level. 
Important! If, when measuring in all directions, the level drop remains in the middle, then the frame is installed as accurately as possible. You can proceed to the next stage - plasterboard sheathing.
How to make ceilings warm
Insulation of plasterboard ceilings is carried out after laying the frame, before the finishing sheathing. best material mineral wool is used to carry out this stage of work. The peculiarity of laying is to fill the frame cells with it as much as possible, but to avoid deformation. To do this, you need to cut the material very accurately. Mineral wool is attached to concrete slab umbrella nails. It is easier to cut and fasten the foam, but it does not dampen the shock sounds that appear when objects fall, walking in slippers. 
Most often in high-rise buildings good hearing. Some of the sounds will help drown out mineral insulation, in addition to it, you can use a special foil material that will reflect heat into the room and muffle shock sounds from neighbors from above. This material is installed at the time of attachment of the suspensions. The condition under which the material will give the maximum effect is the absence of false seams. It should fit closely, but without overlap. Its fastening on the seam is made with a special soundproof tape. 
Two-tier suspended plasterboard ceiling
Do-it-yourself two-tier plasterboard ceiling involves the implementation initial stages using the same technology as the single-tier one. But in this case, it is difficult to do without special "U"-shaped suspensions. They serve not only to hold the profiles, but also to fasten the hangers of the second tier.
On video:
installation instructions two-level ceiling with a transition to the wall.
If the second tier should be a ledge with a rounded ledge, then an external profile with an appropriate bend is required. It is also mounted on suspensions, serves to hold the side wall of the tier. 
The internal sections of the sheets of the cover and the side wall are made at an angle of 45 °, this is necessary in order to make it easier to hide the junction. The repair manual for any ceiling involves the installation ceiling plinth. By installing foam skirting boards, you can hide the unevenness of the joints of the ceiling line and walls. They are as easy to cover with water-based paint as drywall itself.
Frame sheathing
For do-it-yourself plasterboard suspended ceilings, it is better to cut all the elements at once. This will allow you to take out the table on which the marking of the sheets was carried out from the room, sweep out the remnants of the material that are unnecessary in the work, and remove gypsum dust. 
Drywall is cut in three stages:
- Marking is done on one side of the sheet. A deep incision is made along this line. The main task is to cut through the cardboard.
- Now the same procedure is carried out on the second side of the sheet.
- If cutting was done on big table, and the incision turned out to be deep, then the sheet can be broken along the markings by strong sharp pressure on the edge. Otherwise, it is better to use a hacksaw. So the defects along the edge will be much less.
Advice! No tool will save you from small chips of the gypsum filling. To give the cut a rounded shape, you need a fine grater. Fine sandpaper is used for grinding. Files, rasps, files are not recommended, their working part will quickly become clogged with plaster dust.
Now it remains to fix the GKL on the frame. This will require two platforms spaced at a distance equal to the length sheet. It is most convenient to work with a screwdriver. You can, in the old fashioned way, turn the screws with a hand screwdriver. It is inconvenient only to hold a heavy sheet. It is better to start sheathing from the corner of the wall with a window.
The technical characteristics of drywall are such that when the weather changes, respectively, and the humidity inside the room, the material absorbs moisture and expands. 
Such hygroscopicity leads to the fact that adjacent sheets can squeeze each other out, or under the pressure of the side elements of the ceiling, the middle one will receive damage that cannot be hidden cosmetic repairs. It can only be replaced.
To prevent this from happening, you should remember one simple rule - between the wall and the plasterboard there should be a gap of 5-6 mm. The distance between adjacent sheets cannot be less than 2-5 mm. Making a ceiling cloth with a uniform seam along the entire length will help to make ordinary matches inserted between adjacent sheets. 
How to hide gaps on the ceiling
In order for the ceiling to appear monolithic, you will need putty, a spatula, masking tape with small cells. In its absence, you can use a bandage. Wall gaps do not need to be puttied. are being filled gypsum mortar only seams between sheets. Excess plaster is removed with a spatula along the seam. A tape is applied over a thin layer of putty. It is necessary so that the fragile gypsum does not crack. So the ceiling will not require repair longer. 
The final thin layer of putty is applied over the paint grid. After its final drying, you can proceed to finishing work. Per installed plasterboard ceiling can be layered water-based paint. Also, the plasterboard base is suitable for installing a stretch ceiling. 
Advice! The remaining gaps near the walls will hide the ceiling plinth. The technology for installing a ceiling plinth depends on the material from which it is made, the width, the need to make the room taller or wider (visually) and many other factors.
