How to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? We mount a single-level false ceiling made of plasterboard with our own hands Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling step by step instructions

The functionality and technical characteristics of drywall make this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by the modern construction market. GKL is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only levels the ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level plasterboard suspended ceiling will look spectacular if supplemented with original lighting.

Most of the tools used in the installation can replace each other. Therefore, when compiling a list, it is worth focusing on those that you have at home. To install a false ceiling you will need:

• pencil, building or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
• puncher or impact drill for making holes for dowels and self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
• a hacksaw for metal and a construction knife.

• profile;
• drywall;
• fasteners;
• metal screws, dowels 6 mm.

To perform the finishing of drywall, you need:

• mesh-serpyanka;
• sealing tape;
• primer;
• putty;
• roller or brush;
• spatula (large and medium);
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• acrylic or water-based paint.

For mounting the suspension system, two types of profiles are used:

• guides. They are installed along the walls along a horizontal line that outlines the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
• ceiling. Made in the shape of the letter "C" and are metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of a false ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install plasterboard suspended ceilings in the bathroom, purchase material labeled moisture resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material to retain its original qualities throughout the entire service life, despite the high level of humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface from the living room or bedroom, you can buy a regular gray plasterboard with a sheet thickness of 8-10 mm. It does not make sense to take sheets of greater thickness for self-assembly of the structure. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with.

Fasteners - the parts on which the suspended ceiling will be held.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements, you will need:

• straight hangers. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
• crabs are used to connect parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
• extensions are used to build a profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as suspension fasteners. To connect two pieces of the profile, as well as fix the frame to the concrete floor, galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are fixed to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before starting the installation of a false ceiling made of plasterboard with our own hands, we make markings for the base of the future ceiling. To do this, we find the lower corner in the room, we retreat down from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the draft ceiling surface to the suspended structure must be at least 5 cm. You need to choose your distance, taking into account the communications passing under the ceiling, which are supposed to be installed fixtures, which can be increased up to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydraulic level in your work; in large rooms, it is better to use a laser level for more accurate marking of lines. After you find the dots in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. Elements should be located from each other at a distance of a multiple of the width of the GCR. For example, drywall sheets are produced with a standard width of 120 cm. Thus, the profiles are best fixed in increments of 60 cm from each other.

The distance between the suspensions on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. At such intervals, marks are made on the lines that were drawn to fasten the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted in increments of 60 cm. Thus, the result is a cellular frame with regular-shaped rectangles and a side length of 50x60 cm.

Mounting the frame of the suspended structure - step by step instructions

The frame for the GKL false ceiling is mounted as follows:

• on the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for dowels. Using dowels, we attach a UD profile to the wall;
• we install suspensions that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base with the help of two dowel-nails;
• before proceeding to the installation of the ceiling CD-profile, we check the evenness of the structure with the help of a nylon thread stretched under the base of the suspended ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with suspensions;
• we first fasten the longitudinal profiles in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we sequentially fix the strips in the hangers;
• we fix the transverse elements of the frame in increments of 60 cm. With their ends they will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors (“crabs”).

Important! Longitudinal, transverse ceiling profiles and plasterboard sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. The small gap left during the installation of the structure will act as a ventilation system, allowing free air circulation between the base ceiling base and the suspension system.

How to properly lengthen the profile

Often, suspended plasterboard ceilings have to be installed in large areas, and therefore there are situations when the length of the CD profile is not enough, so you have to increase it. The easiest way, which is used by most professional builders, is to extend the profile using special one-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• we insert the connector inside the profile;
• from the other end of the connector we insert the end of another profile strip;
• we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, we bend the edges of the profile with pliers;
• Now we strengthen the connection with metal screws. To do this, screw the screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which the ceiling profile is extended. For example:

• elongation using a cutter. This is an expensive tool that is used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to additionally strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
• rack profiles in drywall construction are sometimes connected using self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases, when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before proceeding to the final stage of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the GKL sheets need to be given time to adapt to the climatic conditions of the room. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When sheathing the ceiling, proceed as follows:

• cut the chamfer from the ends of the GKL sheet with a knife at an angle of 45 ° by 5 mm;
• start fastening the first sheet from any corner in the room to self-tapping screws after 15 cm along the edges and after 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the GKL;
• at the junction of two adjacent sheets, leave 2-3 mm of free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the plasterboard and the wall;
• pay attention to the fact that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. The recess will subsequently be sealed with putty;
• proceeding in a similar way, sheathe the entire frame with drywall. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

• UD profile. The standard length of the elements is 3-4 meters. To determine the required number of planks, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a higher value;
• cd profile. In this case, the standard size of the GKL sheet is taken into account: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best option is mounting in width. With this method, material waste will be much less.

On one sheet of GKL you will need three profiles, which must be placed in increments of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing the plasterboard false ceiling is long and the profile needs to be extended, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

• suspensions. The first element is fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile 3 meters long, five hangers must be purchased;
• transverse jumpers are usually made from CD-profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
• single-level crab connectors are also fastened every 50 cm between hangers. Thus, five crabs are needed for one profile 2.5 m long.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements needed to install a false ceiling.

The profiles are fixed to the hangers with metal screws (also 2 pcs per hanger). To install one crab, 8 self-tapping screws are required.

To calculate the number of sheets of drywall, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling surface, dividing it by the same indicator for one sheet.

Making a false ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is only a small part of the finishing work. It is necessary to close the seams and cracks on the new structure in such a way that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junction of the elements that ugly gaps are formed, which can disperse over time. To avoid such a nuisance, you need to carry out quality work to strengthen them:

• clean the joints from dust with a dry sponge or paint brush;
• Apply a deep-penetrating primer to all joints, covering a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the joint. Handle the ends of the sheets especially carefully;
• after the primer has dried, stick a sickle tape on the joints;
• prepare a special solution for Knauf seams. Gently apply the mass to the joints and press it in with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the sickle mesh is closed);
• also seal the recesses from the screws with a small amount of the composition;
• after it dries, using fine-grained sandpaper, rub all puttied places, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
• if you are going to paint your structure, you need to finish the ceiling with a thin layer of putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to staining.

As you can see, installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of steps, correctly calculate and choose materials. Then the self-assembled structure will delight with its appearance for a long time.

Videos topic

Most builders note that during the renovation of an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a plaster ceiling or any other material.

The unevenness of various tiled floors, and the fact that the corners almost never correspond to each other, and many other details interfere with the quick execution of work. To hide all these shortcomings today is quite difficult. And rather not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will consider step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has a huge number of advantages, ranging from ease of installation to reasonable prices.

What tools will be needed?

If you are thinking about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the building materials necessary for quick installation of the ceiling, as well as prepare all the tools.

In order to install your own two-level plasterboard ceiling, you will need:

• Water type level in order to accurately mark the place where the guide level will be installed.

• For fast drilling of various openings any puncher.
• Scissors with which it will be possible to cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Screwdriver for fastening GKL, as well as a profile.
• Roll

Frame installation

The first thing to do is to choose a place for future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. Labels should be applied after all containers have water at the same level.

It is up to you to decide exactly how many centimeters to retreat from the building ceiling, however, most builders offer to look at a photo of a plasterboard ceiling in order to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After the completion of the work of the first stage, that is, after marking has been carried out on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for the dowels. For this, a perforator is used.

After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure, it is necessary to make marks right along the perimeter with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to make a fairly simple design, consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install the popular C-shaped profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to markup exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can proceed to fixing the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct suspensions, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with sheets.

Ceiling decoration

To date, a huge number of different ways of decorating the ceiling are offered. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry in stores, you can find many different decorative materials that will decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Someone prefers plaster molding, and someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of fashion trends, as they quickly pass, but you will definitely live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you only joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of comfort in the room.

After you decide what the ideal ceiling looks like after repair, it is important to assess whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the building materials store and choose what will allow quickly turn your dreams of an ideal ceiling into reality.

There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating false ceilings using drywall.

It is only necessary to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even five years.

Note!

Photo of a plasterboard ceiling

Note!

Drywall installation is the easiest and fastest way to rough finish the ceiling, which allows you to give it any shape, change the height, etc. Of course, this work contains its own nuances, however, despite this, every home craftsman can cope with it. The only thing is that you first need to familiarize yourself with the theory, which we will do below - then I will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to make a drywall ceiling on your own.

Drywall installation

Sheathing the ceiling with plasterboard is carried out in several stages:

Stage 1: preparation of tools and materials

So, before you start work, you need to prepare the following tools and materials for installing drywall:

When all the materials are prepared, you can start marking.

Stage 2: marking

Before you make a plasterboard ceiling, you must definitely mark up. It depends on it how smooth the surface of the ceiling will turn out. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this stage very responsibly.

First of all, consider how to mark up for a flat ceiling, which is mounted if the purpose of the work is to level the surface. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. if you are not faced with the task of reducing the height of the ceiling, then you need to position the structure as close to the base as possible. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and project it onto the wall;
2. then 3 cm must be retreated from the point on the wall - this is the thickness of the profile and suspension. The new point must be moved to all corners of the room. To do this, you can use the water level;

1. further between the points in the corners of the room you need to beat off the lines. To do this, you need a masking cord, which is fixed at the points and pulled parallel to the future line. After that, the cord must be released like a bowstring, as a result of which it will hit the wall and leave behind a trace in the form of a straight line between two points;
   The resulting lines are marking the location of the ceiling profile guides. To make sure the lines are drawn correctly, apply a level to them;
2. now you need to mark up on the ceiling itself, but before you do this, you need to decide on the direction of the sheets. Lines should be drawn along it in increments of 40 cm. To do this, first mark the points on each of the walls, then beat off the lines between them using a masking cord according to the scheme described above;
3. then on each line you need to designate the location of the suspensions with a step of 50 cm;
4. perpendicular lines should be drawn through the obtained points. As a result, rectangles should turn out on the ceiling. Perpendicular lines are necessary so that the suspensions are located exactly and strictly perpendicular to the ceiling profiles.

This completes the marking process. It should be noted that when installing a multi-level ceiling, the process of performing this operation is somewhat more complicated. After performing all the above actions, a second-level contour is applied - it can be a semicircle or just a curved line.

In this case, you also need to beat off the line of the second level guides on the wall. I must say that the ceiling profile and suspensions can be located on the ceiling according to the markings of the first level.

In some cases, the second level frame is attached to the first level frame. Another common mounting option is to mount the rails to the ceiling, which allows you to use a profile instead of hangers to mount the frame and thereby get a more rigid structure.

All these nuances of the frame should be displayed on the ceiling, so that in the future there will be no difficulties during its installation.

Stage 3: frame assembly

Now let's look at how to do it right. If the design is single-level, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. installation of the frame should begin with the installation of guides on the walls. Let me remind you that they should be perpendicular to the direction of the drywall sheet and, accordingly, the ceiling profile.
   You can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, depending on the type of wall. In the process of installing guides, use the building level to avoid mistakes;

1. now you need to fix the suspensions on the ceiling according to the markings. For this, you can also use self-tapping screws;
2. after mounting the hangers, you need to install the profiles, after cutting them according to the markings. To do this, the profiles should be inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers.
   At first glance, this work is not difficult, however, it should be borne in mind that the profile bends under its own weight, therefore, before fixing it in the suspension, it is necessary to level it. Otherwise, the plasterboard ceiling will turn out to be convex and unattractive.

To level the ceiling, you can use the long rule with the built-in level. Another option is to install the profiles that are extreme from the walls, and then pull the threads between them, which will serve as beacons for installing the remaining profiles;

1. now it remains only to mount the jumpers. To do this, you need to install crabs (crosses) in increments of about 50 cm, and fix profile trimmings between them. All these parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Often, home craftsmen are interested in how to fasten one profile and at the same time align them. In this case, you will have to use props and adjust their height.

This completes the installation process. If you need to make a curved ceiling, first of all, you need to make its outline. To do this, you need to bend the profile by making cuts on its sides. Otherwise, the installation principle is the same as when installing a flat frame.

Stage 4: installation of drywall

The next step is to install drywall on the ceiling. Since drywall is quite large and heavy, this job is best done with one or even two assistants.

Many people are interested in how to raise drywall to the ceiling yourself if there is no assistant? Solving this "puzzle" is quite simple with the help of mops. The length of the handle of such a mop should be higher than the height of the ceiling.

So that the mop can be leaned against the wall with an indent, two brackets 35-40 cm long should be attached to it. As a result, you can lean the brackets on the wall, while the mop will be about 35 cm from the wall. The second mop can be made without brackets .

1. before you hem drywall, you should rest the mop on the wall over the area you plan to sheathe. The distance between the mop and the frame should be about 10 cm;
2. then drywall with one edge should be put on a mop;
3. then you need to raise the second edge of the sheet, and support it with a second mop, pressing it against the frame;
4. now you need to press the edge of the drywall to the frame, which rested on the first mop;
5. then you need to fix the drywall on the frame with self-tapping screws. The step between the latter should be about 17 cm;
6. according to this principle, the entire ceiling is sheathed.

Home craftsmen are often interested in how many layers of drywall do you need on the ceiling? Subject to the technology of mounting the frame and the drywall itself, one layer is enough.

I must say that there are other ways to sheathe the frame with drywall on your own. In particular, there are special jacks for lifting. However, the method described above is the simplest.

If you need to sheathe a vertical curved plane, for example, in a multi-level ceiling, cuts should be made from the back of the sheet. After that, it will not be difficult to bend the material under the required radius.

Stage 5: Rough finishing

We figured out how to assemble the frame and hem drywall. Finally, consider how the finishing is performed.

This procedure begins with priming:

1. the primer should be thoroughly shaken before use and poured into a roller tray;
2. then the roller must be dipped into the ground, slightly squeezed on a special platform of the pallet, and then treated with it on the surface of the ceiling. Make sure that the soil lays down in an even thin layer;
3. after the drywall surface on the ceiling dries, you need to apply the primer again.

Further work technology is as follows:

1. finishing work begins with chamfering the edges of drywall sheets. The width of the chamfer should be about 5 mm. You can cut it with the help of the mounting.
   If the edge of the sheet is initially rounded, the edge can not be removed;
2. then a self-adhesive mesh should be glued to the joints of the sheets;
3. then it is necessary to cover with starting putty the caps of the screws and the joints of the sheets;
4. then plasterboard ceilings are puttied with starting putty. The latter must be typed on a wide spatula, then press the tool with a blade to the ceiling and tilt it at an acute angle. To apply putty, you need to make smooth, but at the same time fairly fast movements along the plane of the ceiling;
5. In order to qualitatively finish the surface, the hardened putty should be rubbed with a mesh grater, removing all serious flaws on the surface;

1. after that, you need to wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then primed;
2. after that, you need to apply a finishing layer of soil. The principle of operation remains the same as with the starting putty, the only thing is that the composition is applied in a thinner layer. And you should try to apply the coating as carefully as possible;
3. the work is now almost complete. Finally, consider how to do the grinding yourself, on which the final result depends. To do this, you need a small skin.

The task of this operation is to erase the slightest flaws on the surface of the ceiling. Therefore, grinding is necessary in bright light.

Many people are interested in how to make a floating ceiling? For these purposes, LEDs are used that illuminate the contours of the ceiling. The latter, as a rule, are laid in ceiling plinths.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to properly make a plasterboard ceiling.

Conclusion

As we found out, sheathing the ceiling with drywall is generally not difficult. However, in order for the structure to turn out to be even and rigid, it is necessary to adhere to the technology, which we familiarized with above.

If you have any questions regarding the installation of drywall on the ceiling, ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Finishing the ceiling area traditionally plunges the homeowner into an abyss of doubts and contradictions. Today, the variety of materials and technologies, design possibilities are so diverse that it is quite difficult to decide on something specific.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is one of the materials marked by the high popularity of the Russian population. Undoubtedly, plasterboard ceilings have disadvantages because nothing is perfect in the world. Let's remember them without secrets so that your decision to hang drywall over your head is conscious:

• lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling film);
• rather high flammability (in the event of a fire, drywall supports a flame);
• incompatibility with water (drywall is contraindicated in basements, bathrooms, etc.).

However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with the fire resistance and water resistance of some modifications, addressed specifically for rooms with high humidity and an increased ignition factor. Shops offer standard, moisture-resistant, and fire-resistant drywall.

Advantages:

Tools and materials for the upcoming work

Prepare your tools ahead of time so you don't get distracted or fussy. The list of names for different masters is somewhat different, because in the repair and construction business, as you know, skill decides a lot, the ability to use what is, not to depend on frills. Nevertheless, there is the main thing, without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:

• drywall;
• seam tape ("serpyanka");
• guide profiles;
• powerful dowels for attaching profiles to walls;
• ceiling profiles;
• self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
• roulette;
• construction knife;
• a hammer;
• ceiling hangers;
• anchor bolts for attaching suspensions to the ceiling;
• docking "crabs";
• goggles, anti-dust mask (respirator);
• laser or hydraulic level for measuring the entire room;
• bubble level (ideally if its length is 2 meters) for measuring areas;
• screwdriver;
• puncher with a drill (it will be required for dowel fastening of profiles to walls and ceiling);
• metal scissors.

This is the minimum you can't do without. Also, the list may include additional elements, taking into account the features of the "native" ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the floors is hard concrete of a rough batch, in which there are hard stones that prevent normal drilling of holes for fixing screws. Or, let's say you want to install a complex multi-level ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the supporting profiles at different heights. And so on.

Frame preparation - measurements and fasteners

We work with the guide frame

Step 1. We find the lowest corner in the room by measuring all the corners for this, and ideally also the center. We use a roll. In the corner that will be the lowest, we put a label:

• 7-9 cm from the ceiling, if you plan to install built-in lights;
• by 4-5 cm if there are no built-in lights.

Step 2. We arm ourselves with a hydraulic level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark on the lowest corner. Then, using the hydraulic level, we put several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point on each corner, connect them together - draw with a pencil or chalk.

Use a ruler, a perfectly flat chopping block, or a stretched cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option - without drawing, but point out the guide line for attaching the profile.

Step 3 We fix the guide profile to the walls. If the joints between the corners are supposed to be butt joints (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to insure the further “driving” of adjacent fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, tin or plastic - and, after laying them over the butt joint, attach them to the walls with high-strength dowels.

Sometimes in such situations they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not in all regions stores sell such goods. We do the same (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) at the corners of the profile.

Video - Installation of a frame from profiles and suspensions

We work with the main ceiling profile

Step 1. The most common dimensions of drywall are 1.2x2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - in this way, each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk lines with a 40-centimeter step.

Step 2. In the places of the transverse junction of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m) we install jumpers from the same profile. With non-standard sizes of drywall, respectively, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. We fix the joints with “crabs”.

Step 3. Determine the location of the suspensions: from the first wall, a distance of 25 cm, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling zone. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling with anchor bolts (dowels are not suitable, because they have no thread and under the weight of the structure, they will inevitably “pull out” due to attraction to the ground over time).

Step 4 We fix the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Now our frame is ready.

Initially, remember the important nuances: drywall is sensitive to deformation, temperature and humidity changes during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and before the start of installation work, the material should be “aged” for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this adapts the drywall structure to local temperature and humidity conditions.

Sequencing:

• pre-calculate the consumption of material;
• we cut the necessary parts for those places where less than a whole sheet is required;
• with a construction knife, we chamfer the edge so as to further ensure good penetration of the putty into the gap;
• we begin to fasten the sheets to the ceiling profile from the wall and from the corner, we place the screw from the edge by 10-15 cm and 20 cm from each other;

Attention! We must “sink” the screw heads in the sockets, check by touch. On adjacent sheets, we place the screws not against each other, but apart;

• make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
• we make sure that the sheet is joined to the sheet with a shift of at least one cell;
• make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.

The final stage

The seams need to be given special attention, because the appearance of the future ceiling depends on the quality of their sealing.

Important points:

When working with dust, primer, putty and paint, do not forget to use protective equipment. Wear goggles, a respirator, a mask. Taking precautions will keep you healthy and enhance the joy of the plasterboard ceiling you install yourself.

A design such as a plasterboard ceiling is an ideal solution for arranging any type of room. This material is extremely popular in construction and repair work. GKL ceiling has a lot of advantages over other types of finishes. First of all, it is an opportunity to hide the curvature and other defects of the floor slab.

Ceiling drywall is an environmentally friendly material that is completely harmless to humans. The finished surface is perfectly flat, without the slightest hint of sagging or height differences. The gap between the drywall and the carrier board can accommodate electrical wires, telecommunications cables and a ventilation system.

With proper processing, plasterboard ceilings can not only be painted and wallpapered, but also finished with ceramic tiles and mirror panels. Let's look at how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, without involving hired labor?

During construction and repair, any type of plasterboard can be used for the ceiling. However, it is advisable to dwell on the ceiling version. Drywall for the ceiling has a smaller thickness (9 mm), which makes the sheets lighter and easier to work with. The decision on which drywall is best for the ceiling should be made only after assessing the conditions in which the suspended structure will be operated.

Varieties and application of GKL for the ceiling

When finishing various rooms, you can sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard of the following types:

1. ordinary. This material is used for facing office, residential and service premises, where a constant temperature and humidity are maintained. The outer coating of such products has a gray color and blue markings. Such a sheet has a small weight, which saves on material for the frame and reduces the load on the floor slab. Standard ceiling drywall is available in the form of slabs 120 cm wide, 250 and 300 cm high. Ordinary gypsum board bends well when wetted and retains its shape after drying. The figured box and steps made from it look very impressive;
2. moisture resistant. In the manufacture of the filler for this material, silicone and antifungal drugs are used. To resist moisture, the mixture is placed in a special impregnated cardboard. It must be borne in mind that waterproof plates do not absorb moisture at all. Therefore, it will not work to give them a curvilinear shape. Install waterproof plates in rooms with a high level of humidity or in apartments where there is a high risk of flooding from the upper floors. The outer surface of this finishing material has a green color;
3. fire resistant. Fire resistance is achieved by adding special reinforcing additives to the material and impregnating it with antipyrine. A suspended ceiling is made of fire-resistant material in rooms where there should be an increased level of fire safety. These can be cash desks, archives, shield and bank vaults. Manufacturers paint refractory sheets pink or gray with red markings.

Having considered drywall models that can be used in work, it is worth dwelling on how a drywall ceiling is made. This is a fairly simple job that even a beginner can do, it is important to look at the manual for working with the material.

Tools and materials

The manufacture of a suspended structure from drywall sheets is an event that does not require the use of professional equipment.

To install the GKL on the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• building level;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• plane;
• square;
• marker;
• wide and narrow steel spatula;
• mixer for mixing the solution;
• set of drills and crowns.

In order to protect the respiratory organs and eyes from dust, it is necessary to purchase a respirator and goggles. Since the work will be carried out at a height, stable goats or a stepladder will be needed.

To find out the required amount of material, we advise you to use our

The calculation of building materials is carried out on the basis of the prepared project. It indicates the type of construction (single-level, multi-level), frame schemes, electrical wiring, the location of drywall sheets and insulation, the location and type of lamps, sensors and other devices.

To make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands, you will need the following materials and fixtures:

1. starting and finishing putty;
2. mounting plastic tape;
3. self-tapping screws for metal;
4. breaker cord;
5. sandpaper;
6. abrasive mesh;
7. liquid primer;
8. drywall sheets.

Before making a ceiling of plasterboard plates, they must be allowed to lie down for several days in the room. This is necessary in order for the material to acquire humidity and temperature corresponding to the working conditions.

Preparatory activities

Despite the fact that the GKL completely cover the floor slab, it is necessary to take measures for its preventive repair and conservation. If this is not done, then the appearance of leaks, the development of fungus and mold is quite possible. Underestimating the preparation of the base plate for installation can lead to the most unpleasant consequences, such as settling the space between the ceilings with rodents and insects.

Before you start making plasterboard ceilings, you must perform the following activities:

1. if your house is being repaired, then check the condition of the roof and rafters. If necessary, carry out roof restoration;
2. remove from the room all interior items that may be damaged during the repair process. Cover the rest of the things with a plastic protective film;
3. remove all communications, sensors and lighting devices from the carrier plate. Assess the condition of the wiring. If necessary, replace it;
4. remove the dilapidated finish and fragments of the floor slab that are not firmly attached to it. Clean cracks and holes;
5. repair all existing defects in the carrier plate with cement mortar or synthetic sealant. Treat its surface with an antiseptic and a deep penetration primer.

Immediately after the primer dries, further work can begin. In the course of their implementation, it is necessary to strictly carry out all the stages of activity in a certain sequence. Step-by-step instructions for each phase of work will help to make repairs efficiently and quickly.

Building a frame for drywall

The most practical and reliable option for creating a frame is to use a steel profile. The profile is completed with extension cords and connectors of various configurations and purposes. This allows you to assemble both flat and complex suspended structures on the ceiling.

We make a frame from a galvanized steel profile in the following sequence:

1. the height of the walls is measured in all corners of the room. In the lowest corner, a mark is made 10 cm from the floor slab. From this mark, a horizontal line is drawn along all walls. Lines parallel to the wall are drawn on the carrier plate with an interval of 60 cm;
2. holes are drilled along the drawn line in increments of 30-40 cm. After the plastic dowels are inserted into them, the UD profile guides are screwed to the wall;
3. vertical hangers are fixed on the ceiling plate. The fastening step should be within 60-80 cm;
4. blanks of the supporting CD profile are sawn. Their length should be 35-40 mm shorter than the distance between the edges of the carrier profile;
5. the supporting profile is inserted into the openings of the guide profile. One of its ends is rigidly fixed with a self-tapping screw. The carrier profile is fixed in hangers. After fixing with self-tapping screws, the edges of the suspension are bent up or broken off. A self-tapping screw is screwed on the other end of the carrier profile;
6. sawn and fixed transverse parts. For their fastening, a cross connector (crab) is used. The result of the work is a steel grating with cells 50x60 cm.

After checking the frame for strength, electrical wiring and communication lines are laid. Electrical wires must be laid in a plastic PVC tube, rigidly fixed to the floor slab.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

To fix the plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you will need an assistant, since the sheets are quite large in size and weight. Work begins with the installation of a whole plate in one of the corners. GKL installation is carried out in rows. Each subsequent row is fastened with an offset of 100 cm or 120 cm, depending on the choice of fastening direction. The last row is cut so that the cut edge is facing the wall.

When carrying out the sheathing of the frame with drywall, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules:

1. joints of drywall sheets should be located only on the frame, otherwise sagging and cracks are inevitable;
2. self-tapping screws must be screwed into the frame through the sheets over its entire area. The fixation interval should be 15 cm. At the same time, it is necessary to control the screwing process so that the screws do not break through the cardboard shell of the plate;
3. a 2 mm gap must be left between the masonry fragments. It is necessary for the thermal expansion of the material;
4. cutting drywall is best with a sharp clerical knife. An incision is made on the front side of the plate. After that, she moves to the edge of the table, where the excess is broken and cut off. Ragged edges are smoothed out with a planer.

After the GKL is attached to the frame, the quality of the work performed is checked. The protruding screws are tightened, next to the self-tapping screws that have broken through the cardboard, new hardware is screwed in.

Putty plasterboard ceiling

By itself, drywall cannot be the basis for finishing. Its surface and structure are too fragile for such a purpose. After fixing the plates, there are many seams and recesses left by the screw heads.

The technology of applying putty between sheets of plasterboard

We putty drywall in the following sequence:

1. the GKL surface is cleaned of dust and small parts of gypsum. The identified defects are eliminated. The seams are treated with a primer;
2. plaster solution is mixed. It is pressed with force into the joints and holes from the screws. A sickle tape is applied over the joints and embedded in the solution. It will prevent the appearance of cracks;
3. the leveled surface is treated twice with a deep penetration primer. This is necessary in order to strengthen not only the outer shell of the GKL, but also its filler;
4. drywall is covered with a solution of starting putty. The solution is drawn from the container with a narrow spatula and applied to a wide tool, with which the putty is applied to the surface with wide sweeping movements. All protrusions are immediately smoothed out;
5. the primer of the frozen starting putty is carried out. After the soil has dried, a finishing putty solution is applied, which removes all irregularities;
6. the surface is processed with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. The quality of grinding and polishing is determined by the type of finish. Before painting, the surface must be leveled with jewelry accuracy;
7. the ceiling is cleaned of dust and covered with a primer. After that, it is ready for applying the finishing cladding, which can be used as paint, wallpaper or tile;
8. connection and fixing of lighting fixtures, fans and various sensors is carried out. The joints between the drywall and the wall are covered with skirting boards. If a wide plinth is glued to the wall 5 cm from the false ceiling, then it will serve as a good basis for attaching the backlight in the form of an LED strip.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling on your own, it is known that it is important to consistently complete all stages of work.

Photo gallery of finished plasterboard ceilings