How to properly insulate the ceiling in your house. Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof Advantages of ceiling insulation

Insulation of ceiling structures in a private house is one of the stages in the arrangement of the ceiling, and far from the most difficult. All that needs to be done to complete this work is to understand the design of the heat-insulating layer, select the insulation that is optimal for a particular situation and mount it correctly. About how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house, and will be discussed in this article.

The choice of insulation

It is not necessary to think for a long time about whether it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, because the answer is obvious. Thermal insulation is designed not only to keep heat within the building, but also to reduce heating costs. The fact is that thermal energy tends to leave the house, and the largest leakages always occur through ceiling and floor structures. Insulation of interfloor floors can be mediocre, but the ceiling, behind which there is an unheated attic, must be protected very well - otherwise most of the heat will go through the roof.

When choosing a heater for the ceiling in a private house, you need to take into account a whole range of parameters, including:

The level of thermal conductivity - the lower this indicator, the less heat loss will be;
Moisture absorption coefficient - the decrease in this parameter is directly proportional to the amount of moisture that can be absorbed into the insulation;
Weight and density - the lower, the more convenient it will be to mount the material;
Flammability class - it is desirable to select products of category G1;
Environmental friendliness.

For the manufacture of floors in private homes, either concrete or wood is used. Insulation of concrete structures can be carried out with loose and sprayed materials, as well as plate products. Any type of insulation is suitable for working with wooden floors - as long as they have a minimum thermal conductivity. Installation methods of heaters may differ, so each case must be considered individually.

Ceiling insulation methods

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be done in two ways:

internal;
outdoor.

The methods are quite different, and each of them has a number of characteristic features. Both insulation options can be used either separately or together (in the latter case, the greatest efficiency is achieved). To insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, it is worth considering both methods in more detail and understanding their inherent nuances.

internal

When insulating the ceiling in a room, it is imperative to mount a frame on which the heat-insulating materials will be held. This method is not very profitable - firstly, the usable volume of the room after installing all the elements decreases, and secondly, it is rather inconvenient to mount the system under the ceiling, so all the work will take more time and effort.

In order for the insulation of the ceiling inside the house to function normally, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer. The thing is that the steam inevitably moves up and tries to go outside the room. If this does not happen, then moisture vapor will lead to rotting of the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its properties.

Outdoor

With external insulation, the situation is much simpler. In this case, it is not necessary to mount the frame, and any materials with a low degree of thermal conductivity can be used as a heater - sawdust, slag, ecowool, expanded clay, etc. This method of insulation is especially relevant for attic spaces that are not planned to be used as residential.

When arranging an attic in the attic, external insulation will be one of the stages of floor installation. Of course, the complexity of installation increases because of this - you will have to assemble the frame for the floor structure, which in the future (after laying the insulation) will be sewn up from the outside. You can sheathe the floor with any materials that are used to cover the floor - boards, durable plywood or OSB boards.

Concrete ceiling insulation

It is much easier to equip the thermal insulation of concrete floors from the attic side - it will be quite convenient to perform each stage of work. However, this is not always possible, so it is necessary to insulate the ceiling in the house from the inside, forming a frame for heat-insulating materials under the ceiling.

For installation, you need to prepare the following set of tools in advance:

Perforator or drill (for drilling holes in the ceiling);
Screwdriver and a set of drills;
Building level;
Cord and marker for marking.

Also, even before you insulate the ceiling, you need to purchase all the building materials:

A sufficient number of metal profiles for drywall (a good alternative would be square wooden bars 40x40 mm);
Hangers for profiles;
Fasteners (best suited "crabs" for suspended ceilings);
Thermal insulation material (foam or mineral wool slabs, or roll insulation);
Sheets for the outer cladding of the frame (drywall or plywood);
Vapor barrier film.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is as follows:

First you need to markup. In order for the structure to end up in its place, the markup must take into account the features of the frame and the room. The frame itself consists of transverse and longitudinal racks, which are attached to each other with the help of "crabs" and held on the ceiling with suspensions.
To simplify the work, it is worth mounting the longitudinal racks in such a way that the step between them matches the width of the selected insulation. However, an excessive increase in the step (over 80 cm) will also not lead to anything good - as a result, the rigidity of the structure will be insufficient.
The marking itself is applied to all walls along which the frame will be installed. The marking is applied in accordance with the cord, which is stretched between the corners and checked for alignment with a level. Having marked the walls, you need to go to the ceiling and make all the necessary marks on it.
Now you need to mount the profiles. First of all, a guide metal profile is installed, which must be positioned in accordance with the markings on the walls.
The next step is the installation of suspensions. These elements are usually located on the ceiling in increments of about 80-90 cm. Having decided on the attachment points, you need to drill the required number of holes in the ceiling.
Now it's time to form the frame by mounting the longitudinal and transverse racks. Of course, when installing these profiles, you need to be guided by the markup.
The selected insulation is mounted in the assembled frame. To keep it in place, you need to bend the edges of the hangers - they will ensure the fixation of the material during installation.
Next, you need to install a layer of vapor barrier. You need to work very carefully with the film - it has a fragile structure, and it is very easy to damage it with something sharp. The vapor barrier film is carefully stretched between the racks of the frame and fastened with double-sided tape.
The last stage is the sheathing of the frame. Sheathing sheets must be fastened in such a way that there is a minimum gap between them. The optimal arrangement of sheets is perpendicular to the guides. Between themselves, the sheets are connected in the middle of the profile. For fixing, self-tapping screws are used, the caps of which need to be slightly drowned in the thickness of the material. The distance between the screws for reliable fastening should be about 30 cm, and about 3-4 cm should be retreated from the corners of the sheet.

When insulating the ceiling with your own hands from inside the house, you need to make sure that there is a gap of at least 1 cm thick between the sheathing and the heat insulator. This gap is necessary to ensure normal ventilation of the structure.

Installation of external thermal insulation

External insulation of floors can have both single-layer and multi-layer construction. However, regardless of the design of the insulation, you need to try to reduce its total weight, and this is true for any type of floor. If we are talking about bulk materials, then you also need to correctly determine the required layer thickness. For example, sawdust will require about 25 cm, and expanded clay for high-quality insulation is enough for a layer 15 cm thick.

To move around the attic, you should assemble a simple frame and put boards or slabs on it. It is best to mount the frame from wooden boards or beams. The latter will be ideal if the final design will have a small thickness.

The installation algorithm includes the following steps:

First you need to decide on the installation step of the frame elements. It is best to build on the width of the selected insulation, so that it is convenient to mount it.
Next, you need to decide exactly how the transverse and longitudinal elements of the frame will be installed.
The boards, in accordance with the finished scheme, are installed with their ends in place and fixed with metal corners and self-tapping screws.

External insulation can be performed using a variety of heat-insulating materials - mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bulk insulation. You have to choose the material individually, depending on financial capabilities and requirements. It is worth considering several options in more detail.

Styrofoam

Insulation with foam boards is the easiest option. The foam plastic has fixed dimensions, which allows you to do without trimming by pre-mounting the frame, taking into account this parameter. There are no special requirements for the dimensions of the plates themselves - standard sheets can be meter and half meter wide, and this difference will not affect the quality of the insulation.

Another thing is the brand of foam. If we are talking about the insulation of the attic floor, then C25 would be the best option. The density of this brand is quite high, due to which a small thermal conductivity is achieved. If necessary, you can purchase more expensive C35 foam or polyurethane foam - these materials are considered the most reliable.

mineral wool

Another good option are materials based on mineral fibers. All these materials have excellent performance, but they also have a common drawback - mineral wool is very hygroscopic. This suggests that when moisture enters the material absorbs it and loses most of its properties.

It is because of this shortcoming that the possibilities of using mineral wool are limited. However, this limitation can be circumvented, for which you will have to take care of high-quality waterproofing of the attic and ceiling, so that the material is not able to contact even with moisture vapor, not to mention direct contact.

Sawdust

One of the answers to the question of how to fill the ceiling in the house is sawdust. Sawdust is the cheapest heat-insulating material that is suitable for external insulation. However, low cost can be called perhaps the only advantage of this material. Sawdust is an organic material that rots, so it must be mixed with lime before use.

You can also mix a solution consisting of 10 parts of water, one part of water and one part of sawdust. When the ceiling is thermally insulated with sawdust, the mixing process looks exactly the same as when mixing concrete. The resulting composition is used to completely fill the space in the frame. Before sheathing, the material must be left for some time to dry.

Expanded clay

The most convenient bulk insulation is expanded clay. It is a granular material having particles of different sizes. In order for the insulation efficiency to be maximum, when backfilling, it is necessary to alternate small granules with large ones - as a result, there will be fewer voids in the layer, and this will improve the quality of thermal insulation.

The technology of insulation when using expanded clay is no different from any other bulk materials. First you need to mount the formwork (framework), and then fill it with a uniform layer of granules.

Ecowool

The raw materials for the manufacture of ecowool are not environmentally friendly materials, as the name might seem, but various wastes - newspapers, bags or cardboard. The components are treated with acid, so that the finished material has minimal flammability and is well protected from biological influences.

Of the advantages of ecowool, it is worth noting first of all the low thermal conductivity, which provides good insulation, and the ability to pass steam, due to which the material is not susceptible to fungus and mold. In addition, this material is very easy to install and is quite suitable for do-it-yourself insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling with ecowool in a private house can be carried out in a dry, wet and adhesive way. The first method is quite simple - the material is simply placed in the frame and compacted. For the second and third methods, you need special equipment that allows you to spray ecowool on the desired areas.

polyurethane foam

In modern construction, polyurethane foam is very popular, which, among other purposes, is also used for insulation. This material is available in the form of foam, which can be applied to any type of surface. A distinctive feature is the absence of the need for any fasteners - this insulation for the ceiling inside the house in the country is independently glued to everything it comes into contact with.

Among the main advantages of polyurethane foam, it is worth noting the following qualities:

Low flammability;
No toxic emissions;
Good chemical resistance;
Low hygroscopicity;
Long service life.

The sprayed polyurethane foam forms a solid layer that does not have cracks and gaps, due to which low thermal conductivity is achieved. However, steam can freely pass through the pores of the material, so it is not necessary to equip the vapor barrier. To apply this insulation to the coating, it must first be dried (for concrete floors, the permissible moisture level is 4%, and for wooden floors - 12%).

Areas that should not be insulated should be well covered before work (plastic wrap or thick fabric is fine). Polyurethane foam is applied in layers, subject to constant control of the thickness of the spray. Apply the next layer only after the previous one has completely cured. Being the most expensive insulation, polyurethane is very easy to apply and perfectly performs the functions assigned to it.

Conclusion

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out in several ways. In some cases, you will have to make more effort, with others it will be easier, but you will have to pay more. The main thing is that for any conditions you can choose the best option, which will be quite profitable and effective.

Mineral wool - ceiling insulation

Types of heaters

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a textile fiber obtained either from a melt of glass (glass wool), or from a melt of blast-furnace slags (slag wool), or from melts of volcanic rocks (stone wool). The thickness of the insulation for the ceiling in the form of mineral wool can be from 20 to 200 mm.
Mineral wool is supplied in rolls and in bales and, accordingly, can look like a block or a carpet. The latter type of release may have a foil side, which significantly increases the effect of thermal insulation.

Foil polyethylene foam

Foil polyethylene foam is a polyethylene foam glued to a layer of aluminum foil. The thickness of the insulation can be from 1 to 20mm, the width of the roll is 1m.
Despite the small thickness of the insulation, it is quite effective, thanks to the foil, which acts as a heat reflector. Sometimes thin foil polyethylene foam is used in combination with another insulation, stacking on top of each other, for example, mineral wool is covered with it, which, firstly, increases the thermal barrier power and, secondly, does not allow carcinogenic substances emanating from mineral wool to be sprayed.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam as a heater is a foamed cellular plastic mass enclosed in a square of regular shape, with sides 100 × 100 cm. The thickness of the product is different and ranges from 20 to 100mm. The density of such blocks can also be different: 15kg / m 2 or 25kg / m 2 (this is the density of the foam, as a rule, used in construction for insulation of premises).
Foam sheets are used as an intermediate insulation for wall and hanging frames, and are installed as a rough base before. Depending on the purpose, the density of the material also changes.

Polyplex

Extruded (extrusive) polystyrene foam or polyplex is obtained by extrusion of polymers, that is, it is pressed through the desired shape and sheets of 120 × 60 cm are obtained. The thickness of the material starts from 10mm and ends at 200mm, and includes all intermediate dimensions that are multiples of zero. Usually in construction, products with a density of 35 kg / cm 2 or 45 kg / cm 2 are used.
Penoplex comes in different colors, a chamfer is made around the perimeter of the sheet for a denser installation. Due to its high density, such insulation on the ceiling is most often used as a rough base for putty.

Expanded clay is made from fusible clay, it is porous, has an oval shape and is very light. Such a heater, as a rule, is used for backfilling in the attic of a house, the ceiling of which needs to be insulated. It is also used as a thermal cushion under the screed, which is sometimes poured in the attic.

Advice. When working with any type of mineral wool, use protective equipment such as goggles, gloves and closed clothing. For those suffering from respiratory diseases, it is advisable to use a respirator or gauze bandage.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

Above

The heaters that are placed from the side of the attic can be anything, since such material does not need to be fixed with anything, but it is only important to tightly cover the entire plane, leaving no cracks or gaps.
In this case, the question is: "Which insulation is better for the ceiling?" makes sense and has an answer. This is the insulation that will cost less and will have a sufficient level of thermal insulation. As a rule, expanded clay or mineral wool is used for the attic.

Bottom

To install a thermal insulator from below, you need either a suspended frame or special fasteners, since it will be necessary to attach the insulation to the ceiling by weight. The easiest way is to fill the sinus between the main and suspended ceilings with any insulation.

As a rule, in such cases, whether it is mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, the insulation is threaded through U-shaped suspensions for the suspended ceiling frame, and then frame (wooden or metal) profiles are installed. But such a method of insulation is possible only if there is enough space for a heater in the ceiling sinus, or, in other words, if it is possible to lower the suspended ceiling frame to a distance sufficient for the installation of insulation.

Foil polyethylene foam can be used at almost any depth of the ceiling sinus, since you can fix the insulation on the ceiling with double-sided tape, and then, right through it, fix the suspensions and the frame itself.

You can also lay insulation for the ceiling between frame wooden or metal profiles. In the case of laying rigid materials, such as polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, there are gaps that need to be blown out with mounting foam.

But, in case you are not going to mount, two types of insulation are suitable for you - this is foam plastic and foam plastic of the 25th density.

To fix such panels, you will need glue for foam plastic or for ceramic tiles (both types are suitable) and dowel fungi. The polymer sheet is smeared with glue and applied to the pre-primed ceiling, and after partial drying of the glue, it is additionally fixed with fungi. The foam plastic is fixed at five points (at the corners and in the center), and the foam plastic, due to the greater density of the material, at two points (at the edges).

Advice. If you decide to putty the surface on foam plastic or foam plastic, then it is better to fix the insulation only after you level the main ceiling itself. Thus, it will be easier for you to mount the foam and the insulation will not have to hold a large weight of putty, which levels the finished surface with the insulation.

Conclusion

All heaters are exactly the same, as they perform the same function. The difference between them is only in the methods of installation and the possibility of application in certain cases. So in most cases, the choice of thermal insulator depends on personal preference.

In winter, at least 25% of the heat goes through the roof of an uninsulated building, the losses are compensated by enhanced heating. Of course, heating also entails increased energy consumption. A budget way to solve the problem is to insulate the ceiling in a private house, the attic remains cold. The overlap is smaller than the roof slopes in area, hence the savings. Our task is to tell you how to properly insulate the ceiling, after selecting the appropriate materials.

The eternal question - to insulate from the inside or outside

Any external fence separating the living space from the street is best sheathed with thermal insulation from the outside. Accordingly, the insulation of the ceiling on the upper floor of a private house is done from the side of the attic. Causes:

Installation is physically simplified, which is important when doing do-it-yourself work. No need to make a hanging frame or hem the insulation from below to the ceiling.
A layer of insulator with a thickness of 10-20 cm (depending on the region of residence) will not reduce the height of the rooms. This is an important plus for old buildings and "Khrushchev" with low ceilings.
In a habitable house or apartment, you do not have to redo the repairs.
If you do not follow the technology of internal thermal insulation, the surface under the insulation will get wet, a fungus will appear. Moisture condensation inside the “pie” is facilitated by 2 factors: the penetration of water vapor and the formation of a dew point at the junction of dissimilar materials.

When the outer fence is sewn up from the inside, the moisture condensation point is located near the interface of 2 different building materials

About the notorious dew point, which frightens ordinary homeowners. To avoid condensation inside the structure, it is worthwhile to withstand 2 conditions: prevent water vapor from the room from entering and use an insulator of sufficient thickness. Then the dew point will be inside the insulation, where there is nothing to condense. The second way is to organize the removal of moisture with the help of ventilation (read below).

Reference. The dew point is the phenomenon of condensation of water vapor from the air at a certain humidity and temperature. The lower the air temperature, the sooner the degree of extreme saturation with moisture is reached and condensation begins.

There are exceptions to the rules, not every room can be finished with insulation from the outside. Examples:

the ceiling of the upper apartment of a multi-storey building;
attic;
balcony, loggia;
concrete floor of the garage above the basement, cellar;
the need to save money, etc.

For obvious reasons, it will not be possible to insulate the garage basement from above.

In these cases, internal thermal insulation of ceilings is arranged with strict adherence to technology. We will describe the procedure for doing work in the form of step-by-step instructions, but first you need to find out ...

The better to insulate ceilings

For insulation of ceiling structures, 4 groups of materials are used:

Fibrous - mineral, stone (basalt) and glass wool.
Loose - sawdust, clay, expanded clay, vermiculite.
Polymers made from expanded polystyrene and polyethylene.
Sprayed - ecowool, polyurethane foam, liquid foam - penoizol.

We will not focus on the last group of heaters - liquid mixtures are applied by spraying or filling cavities under pressure, which requires appropriate technological equipment. You can’t do such ceiling insulation in a private house with your own hands - you need to hire craftsmen from a specialized company and pay for services.

Application of cellulose ecowool (left) and PU foam (right)

Note. Sprayed materials are the most effective and at the same time expensive. Only Polynor insulating polyurethane foam with a low thermal conductivity coefficient λ = 0.04 W/(m °C) is applied manually. The price of an aerosol can is 8 USD. e., the coverage area is 1 m² with a thickness of 50 mm. Thermal resistance of the layer: R \u003d 0.05 / 0.04 \u003d 1.25 m² ° C / W - the information will be useful to us for comparison.

Let us consider in more detail each group of building materials, then we will choose suitable heaters for ceilings in various rooms.

Porous fibrous materials

For thermal insulation of roofs and attics under a cold roof, 3 types of fibrous products are used:

mineral wool on a synthetic binder, thermal conductivity λ = 0.055-0.06 W / (m ° C);
basalt non-combustible insulation λ = 0.05-0.053 W / (m ° C);
mineral wool based on fiberglass (otherwise - glass wool) λ = 0.044 W / (m ° C).

Clarification. We give the parameters of heaters for real operating conditions, taken from regulatory construction documentation. To overestimate the characteristics of insulators, manufacturers indicate the coefficient λ for the material in the dry state. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the insulation resists cold.

Above, we calculated the thermal resistance R of foam insulation 5 cm thick (1.25 m² ° C / W). Let's compare the indicator with the characteristics of fibrous materials of similar thickness by performing a short calculation for each (the technique from SNiP was applied):

mineral wool - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.055 \u003d 0.9 m² ° C / W;
stone wool - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.05 \u003d 1 m² ° C / W;
glass wool - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.044 \u003d 1.14 m² ° C / W.

Conclusion. In terms of thermal insulation properties, fibrous insulation loses to liquid and foamed polymers. Glass wool shows the best result, ordinary mineral wool insulators show the worst result. By the way, the values of thermal resistance R are interpreted the other way around: the higher the indicator, the more efficient the insulation of a certain thickness works.

Externally, basalt wool differs from mineral wool in color and corrugated fiber structure.

We list the remaining, no less important properties of fibrous insulation:

Cotton wool is produced in rolls, slabs and mats of various densities - from 35 to 200 kg/m³.
The structure with open pores promotes good vapor permeability of materials.
Mineral wool absorbs moisture, but with proper ventilation dries quickly.
Basalt fiber is considered non-combustible because it can withstand temperatures of 600-700 °C. Ordinary mineral wool slabs also do not burn, but are destroyed by strong heat. Glass wool begins to melt at 250 degrees.
Heaters do not have high strength, they are attached to glue or using a frame.

Wool based on fiberglass contains the smallest particles of glass, therefore it is not applicable inside residential premises. The well-known manufacturer of roofing insulation "Isover" recommends covering attic floors with glass wool from the outside.

The structure of glass wool - the fibers form many air spaces

Other mineral heaters use a synthetic binder containing formaldehyde. Under certain conditions, these substances can be released and mixed with air. With internal insulation, mineral wool must be well isolated from the living space with the help of a film, drywall, and so on.

Loose insulation

All backfill materials are of natural origin, and therefore environmentally friendly. The following heaters are used for insulation of ceilings:

expanded clay;
small chips, sawdust;
clay;
vermiculite gravel.

Reference. Vermiculite is much more expensive than expanded clay, so it is used quite rarely. Clay in its pure form is also not used - it is usually mixed with reeds or sawdust.

The main disadvantage of natural heaters is their low efficiency compared to mineral and polymer products. Example: the thermal conductivity of expanded clay gravel with a density of 200 kg / m³ is 0.11 W / (m ° C). The thermal resistance R of a 50 mm layer will be only 0.05 / 0.11 = 0.45 m² °C / W. The indicators of expanded clay of increased density, sawdust and clay are even less.

Vermiculite (left) and expanded clay gravel (right)

Briefly about the properties of building materials:

All bulk insulation well pass water vapor.
Flammability of clay, expanded clay and vermiculite gravel is practically zero. Sawdust or reeds mixed with clay mortar also successfully resists fire.
Long service life (excluding wood shavings).

The low price of natural heaters is a relative concept. To create a heat-insulating layer comparable to mineral wool 5 cm thick, you need to fill up expanded clay to a height of 100 mm, that is, spend twice as much.

Characteristics of polymer thermal insulation

To begin with, we give a list of the materials used, indicating the heat-conducting characteristics in the operating mode:

foam plastic with a density of 15 ... 35 kg / m³, λ \u003d 0.045-0.041 W / (m ° C);
extruded polystyrene foam EPPS, density - 20 ... 40 kg / m³, λ = 0.039-0.037 W / (m ° C);
foamed polyethylene 30…50 kg/m³, λ = 0.044-0.042 W/(m °C).

Reference. Extruded polystyrene foam is often called Penoplex after a popular brand name. Products made of polyethylene foam are known by the names "Penofol", "Izolon" and "Tepofol".

Thin polyethylene foam insulation with foil reflective layer

For comparison with fibrous insulators, we determine the thermal resistance of polymers 50 mm thick:

polystyrene 25 kg / m³ - R = 0.05 / 0.043 = 1.16 m² ° C / W;
"Penoplex" - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.038 \u003d 1.32 m² ° C / W;
"Penofol" - R \u003d 0.05 / 0.042 \u003d 1.19 m² ° C / W.

It is noticeable that the thermal insulation performance of polymer insulation exceeds the characteristics of mineral and basalt wool. The leader is extruded polystyrene, whose result is comparable only to machine-applied polyurethane foam.

The rest of the properties look like this:

Due to the closed air pores, the insulation practically does not allow moisture to pass through. An exception is foam plastics with a meager vapor permeability of 0.05 mg / (m h Pa). Mineral wool indicators - 0.4 ... 0.6 mg / (m h Pa).
All polymers are combustible, no matter what sellers and manufacturers claim.
Materials based on polystyrene have high strength, are produced in plates.
Foamed polyethylene has a soft and flexible structure and is sold in rolls. To reflect the infrared heat flux, the surface of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil.

In terms of availability, polystyrene is the leader - its price is comparable to natural materials. "Extruder" is sold at the price of basalt non-combustible wool or even more.

Useful fact. A good insulator can be a polymer stretch ceiling, which forms an air gap under the ceiling. This cavity cannot be called airtight, but there are very few ways for the penetration of warm air.

A review and comparison of the characteristics of insulating materials showed that each group of insulators has strengths and weaknesses that limit the scope. For example, combustible polymers cannot be used to insulate the interfloor floors of wooden houses - fire regulations prohibit it. You should not ignore the requirement - with the help of a heater, the fire will easily spread to the next floor.

Reference. When installing wooden ceilings, the regulations require that the supporting beams be treated with a refractory compound and the use of non-combustible insulators. If you follow these instructions, then in the event of a fire, the ceiling will last 30-60 minutes until complete collapse. Here is the answer to the question of whether it is possible to insulate a wooden ceiling with foam plastic.

Building codes recommend that wood structures be treated with fire retardant

Based on experience in construction and other regulatory requirements, we will give the following recommendations for choosing thermal insulation:

It is better to insulate wooden floors from the side of the attic with basalt wool, expanded clay, vermiculite, or a mixture of clay and sawdust.
The ceilings in the bath rooms (especially the steam rooms) must be insulated with environmentally friendly materials. Here the choice is small - the same expanded clay, sawdust mass, vermiculite gravel, natural moss. No polymers and mineral wool, from strong heating, the release of harmful substances will begin.
The ceilings of attic rooms are sewn up from the inside with dense basalt fiber, glass wool is not applicable.
Concrete monolithic coatings are usually insulated with foam or polystyrene foam. In a country house - from the side of the roof, on the balcony of a high-rise building or in the basement of a garage - from the inside.
It is more correct to insulate flat reinforced concrete roofs with polymers from the outside, before the installation of a built-up bitumen roof. If this is not possible, "Penoplex" is hemmed from below without problems, but in compliance with the technology.
Foil polyethylene foam is desirable to use as an additional insulating layer. How to properly insulate the ceiling with Isolon and Penofol, from a separate guide.

Practice shows that it is better not to combine wood and vapor-tight building materials. The polymer, which is tightly attached to the beam, blocks the access of air, the wood does not “breathe”. If steam begins to condense at the junction, which has nowhere to go, the wood will turn black and rot.

The author of the video is clearly exaggerating and exaggerating the problem, but the situation shown is, of course, unacceptable. There is only one way out - when using polymers, it is necessary to ensure the contact of wood with air, which is not easy to implement technically.

How to calculate the thickness of thermal insulation

We will show the determination of the thickness of the insulating layer with examples. We take the formula for calculating thermal resistance as a basis (in the previous sections, we have already used it to compare the effectiveness of different materials):

R - heat transfer resistance of the insulating "pie", m² °C / W;
δ is the thickness of the insulation, m;
λ is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, W/(m °C).

The essence of the calculation: according to the standard thermal resistance specified for your region of residence, calculate the thickness of the insulation, knowing the characteristic λ. The value of R is determined according to the scheme given in the regulatory documents, the map with indicators for the Russian Federation is shown in the photo.

Similar maps can be found in the regulations of other CIS countries

Example 1 It is necessary to calculate the insulation of a dacha with an attic, located in the suburbs. We find the characteristics R for Moscow, select the indicator 4.7 m² °C / W (for coatings), take the coefficient λ of basalt wool equal to 0.05 W / (m ° C) and calculate the thickness: δ = 4.7 x 0.05 = 0.235 m ≈ 240 mm.

Example 2 We determine the thickness of the insulating layer from "Penoplex" for concrete floors, location - Cherepovets. The algorithm is this:

We find on the Internet or reference literature the thermal conductivity of reinforced concrete λ = 2.04 W / (m ° C) and find out the thermal stability of a standard floor slab 220 mm: R = 0.22 / 2.04 = 0.1 m² ° C / W.
According to the map-scheme, we find the standard value R for Cherepovets, we take the overlap indicator - 4.26 m² ° С / W (the figure is highlighted in green).
We subtract the found resistance of the plate from the required value of heat transfer: 4.26 - 0.1 \u003d 4.16 m² ° C / W.
We calculate the thickness of the polystyrene foam insulation λ = 0.037 W / (m ° C): δ = 4.16 x 0.037 = 0.154 m ≈ 160 mm.

Comment. The algorithm does not take into account the heat resistance of the interior and attic floors, so it gives a result with a small margin. If we subtract the resistance of the floorboards and the plasterboard ceiling lining, the thickness of the XPS will decrease to 135 mm.

We warm the ceiling with mineral wool

As mentioned above, mineral wool is used to insulate wooden floors and ceilings in attic rooms. So that the material does not become saturated with moisture and does not lose heat resistance, 3 conditions must be met:

protect cotton wool from the ingress of water vapor from inside the premises;
ensure ventilation of the outer surface so that the resulting moisture is weathered from the thickness of the insulation;
the vapor permeability of the materials used in the "pie" should increase towards a colder room or street, as shown in the diagram.

Slab or rolled mineral wool is located in the space between the ceiling beams, as shown in the insulation diagram. When laying thermal insulation with your own hands, follow the following procedure:

Roll out a vapor barrier film from below the beams, laying adjacent sheets with an overlap of 100 mm wide. Make an overlap on the walls with a width of 10-15 cm. Carefully glue the joints with adhesive tape.
The right photo shows a variant of moisture insulation with polyethylene foam with a reflective foil layer.
Glue the film overlaps to the walls with silicone sealant. The goal is to cut off indoor moisture from penetrating into the attic.
Work is being carried out from the side of the cold roof. Therefore, first make a rough lining of the ceiling, where the cotton wool will subsequently fall.
Lay the mineral wool boards as shown in the photo. The rolled material is carefully trimmed and inserted between the log; wadding is unacceptable.
Lay out waterproofing sheets on top of the insulation - a diffusion membrane that allows moisture to pass only in one direction - out. Overlap 10 cm and glue the joints.
Arbitrarily lay attic floors from edged boards across the lag. Solid flooring is optional.

An important point. Between the surface of the wool and the waterproofing, a ventilation duct must be provided. Thanks to the air gap, moisture is removed from the insulation.

Sometimes builders lay the first moisture-proof film over the boards of the draft ceiling, bypassing each beam. We do not recommend using this approach - the vapor barrier will close the access of air to the log wood, and from below it will remain open for saturation with steam. Further it is clear - the tree will begin to rot.

How to lay mineral wool on the ceiling if the thickness of one layer is not enough. In such cases, a second tier of heat-insulating plates is made, shifted by 30-50 cm relative to the first row. If the height of the supporting beams is not enough to organize the air, the frame is built up from the battens of the crate, then the 2nd layer of insulation and waterproofing are arranged.

On the left, an additional crate is shown when the height of the beams is not enough

The attic insulation scheme is very similar to the thermal insulation of a wooden floor:

A counter-lattice is provided on the roof, the diffusion membrane is rolled out from above along the rafters. If there is no external frame, waterproofing can be fixed from the inside, bypassing each rafter leg and shooting the edges of the sheets with a stapler.
The insulation is placed between the rafters by surprise. If the width allows, we put the plates in 2 layers with dressing, otherwise we mount a horizontal counter-lattice.
We nail the vapor barrier to the rafters through the slats, where the interior trim from the plasterboard or lining is subsequently attached.

Reminder. When working with glass wool or basalt fiber, do not forget to wear a respirator and gloves, the material is very dusty and irritates the skin. How to isolate a wooden coating without errors, look at the video:

It is extremely undesirable to insulate concrete ceilings with cotton wool from the inside, especially in wet rooms - the kitchen and bathroom. The porous material will freeze and lose properties if not provided. Another thing is to fix the mineral wool in the space behind the stretch ceiling, where water vapor almost does not penetrate.

Expanded polystyrene technology

Polymers are usually used to insulate reinforced concrete floors and ceilings, and on both sides. In order to isolate the structure from the inside, the surface must be prepared - seal the joints of the plates, level with mortar and carefully treat with a primer.

The second stage of internal thermal insulation is the installation of a subsystem of wooden bars or metal profiles. The frame plays the role of a platform for the finishing device - drywall, false ceiling, and so on. Polystyrene boards are attached directly to the concrete surface with an adhesive mixture and dowels-umbrellas.

Reference. Performing thermal insulation of balconies and loggias with extruded polystyrene, craftsmen often do without a subsystem - they glue or screw the plates to the ceiling in a continuous layer. The slats for the inner lining are attached to the concrete floor through the insulation with special screws - dowels.

How to insulate a reinforced concrete ceiling in a private house from the inside:

After preparing the surface and assembling the frame (or without it), prepare the adhesive mortar according to the instructions on the container.
Apply glue to the foam board and press it to the surface, hold for a while. Fasten the next element end-to-end with the previous one, do the next row with a shift relative to the first.
When the mixture hardens, additionally fix the polymer plates with dowels in the form of umbrellas. It is advisable to blow the joints with mounting foam.
The right photo shows the option of mounting the EPPS together with the false ceiling frame under the gypsum plasterboard
Cover the ceiling with a vapor barrier, observing the overlaps and gluing the joints. The film or "Penofol" is aimed at the subsystem with a stapler.
Lay the edges of the film on the walls and glue with building sealant. Install the slats of the crate and proceed to the finish.

Advice. Do not screw "Penoplex" to the ceiling without glue. Firstly, there will be gaps under the insulation, and secondly, you need to perfectly level the surface. Otherwise, differences of 1-3 mm will appear at the joints of the plates.

External insulation of reinforced concrete slabs with polymeric materials is used on flat roofs and exploited attics. The "pie" on the roof is formed like this:

The technology for mounting polystyrene insulators from below to the ceiling is shown in detail in the video:

Of course, you can insulate reinforced concrete from the inside with mineral wool, and the ceiling of a log house with polystyrene foam. Then take additional measures: carefully isolate the mineral wool from the room, and blow mounting foam between the polymer and the wood - it allows air to pass through and prevents decay.

Finally, backfilling the attic

The use of bulk materials is the simplest option for insulating the ceiling of a country house, although not the most effective. Thermal insulation is carried out on top of the floor in various ways:

If you have an auger concrete mixer at your disposal, you can prepare a more modern ceiling insulation - polystyrene concrete. The cement-sand mortar is mixed with polystyrene beads and laid on the floor with a layer of 200-300 mm. You don’t have to lay the flooring - the monolith has sufficient strength.

Note. A mistake was made on the video - it is not necessary to lay the film under bulk materials. Water vapor (especially in the bath) should freely escape through expanded clay or sawdust concrete to the outside, and the tree should dry thoroughly.

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house depends on the type of ceiling: basement or basement, interfloor, attic and roofing. Consider all types of ceilings in a private house and how to insulate ceilings in a private house.

When designing the construction of a private house or performing a reconstruction, they make up diagram of places of thermal insulation of barrier structures. Then the area, the thickness of the insulation for each of the sections of insulation, the amount of materials for thermal insulation of the ceiling of the house and other ceilings are calculated: roofs, basements, verandas, walls.

Ways to insulate the ceiling of a private house choose from the following factors:

Sides of insulation: outside the room or inside;
Structural features of the floor (concrete slab, wooden floor panels);
Ease of installation;
The cost of insulation for the ceiling of the house and insulation work;

The diagram shows premises for various purposes: entrance hall veranda, residential part of the house and attic, utility part located in a heated basement, basement part, which can be located under the veranda. This diagram of the insulation of the ceiling in the house from the inside and outside shows where it is necessary to isolate the premises.

1. Insulation of the ceiling in a house with an attic from the inside.
1a. Insulation on the beams of the attic floor from the outside.
1m. Insulation of the ceiling of the house from the side of the unheated attic.
1l. Attic hatch insulation.
1c. Insulation of the ceiling in a private house outside (veranda).
1c. Thermal insulation of basement or unheated basement floor slabs.
1g Basement waterproofing.
2. Insulation of the roof part of the attic.
3-17. Thermal insulation of walls inside and outside, windows, doors.

If possible, ceiling insulation in private houses is performed outside, but this is not always possible, sometimes they are isolated from the inside of the room.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the house

The traditional way to insulate the ceiling of a private house is thermal insulation of wooden floors on logs. Consider a fragment of the scheme - insulation of the attic ceiling in a private house from the inside of the attic.

The ceiling (1) is attached to the floor beams (2) - GKL or OSB sheets.
A ceiling insulation for the house (3) is laid between the beams, if they live in the attic year-round, then the vapor barrier is not laid. Insulation (3) performs the function of sound insulation.
The floor (4) is laid on damper pads so that the floor sheets do not sag when walking; additionally, transverse logs are attached between the beams.
(5) GKL.
(6) - vapor barrier.
(7) - lath rail 20 x 50 mm.
(8) - thermal insulation; ceiling insulation with stone wool in a private house is performed from the inside of the dwelling. The material is environmentally friendly and fire safe.
(9) - rafter board 50 x150 or 50 x 200 mm, the wider, the thicker the insulation layer, which also plays the role of a noise absorber.
(10) - a counter-lattice for creating a ventilation gap.
(11) - vapor barrier membrane.
(12) - Metal tile or other roofing material.

Using the example of a veranda, let's see how to insulate the ceiling of a house from the outside when above it unheated room. It is better to perform thermal insulation during the construction of the veranda, when access to the floor is free. The scheme is approximately the same as the previous one, but here the insulation is located between the waterproofing and vapor barrier films.

(1) - tongue-and-groove ceiling.
(2) - floor beam, board 50 x 200 mm.
(3) - waterproofing.
(4) - thermal insulation with basalt wool.
(5) - vapor barrier.
(6) - the floor of the floor. You can leave only the vapor barrier, the floor is not needed, because this space is not used. From above it will be closed with a shed roof.

Advice. Use natural materials to isolate floors, which are easily available in your area and literally lie under your feet: sawdust, moss, straw, clay, reeds, reeds, shavings. Usually they are mixed with clay.

Reed ceiling insulation found application in a private house, where this raw material is in abundance. Reeds are an excellent environmentally friendly material, and most importantly - free. It is prepared like a reed: it is dried under a canopy, then tied with a thin wire into mats, laid on a waterproofing film of the veranda ceiling.

The disadvantage of this method is fire hazard of insulation. Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the house is better to perform non-combustible materials: basalt wool, expanded clay, extruded foam styrene.

How to insulate the ceiling with expanded clay in a private house

best use expanded clay- thermal insulation of the ceiling of the basement, basement, unheated attic space. Ceiling insulation with expanded clay in a private house is shown in the picture.

A vapor barrier film is laid on the grooved board of the veranda floor "Izospan", then fall asleep a layer of expanded clay 15-20 cm and nothing more needs to be laid, everything will be under the roof.

Insulation of the ceiling on the veranda of a private house with ecowool is performed if it is impossible to insulate from the outside. Eco-wool is laid between the floor beams, then a vapor barrier film is attached to the beams with a stapler, a 20x50 mm counter-rail is nailed to the beams for the ventilation gap, and then the GKL ceiling or other material is sewn, as in the insulation scheme discussed above, where instead of (1) - GKL sheets , and instead of (4) - stone wool, ecowool is laid.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house

thermal insulation attic floor from the attic side, customers often do it with their own hands. Knowing the insulation technology, this work is not difficult. Especially on the finished floor.

If the attic floor is not used for housing, then the ceiling insulation in the aerated concrete house is performed as shown in the picture.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands

Measure the area of \u200b\u200bthe space where the waterproofing will be laid.
They buy a film, adhesive tape, polyurethane foam, roll insulation 100 mm thick.
Foam the gaps between the beams and the floor.
Lay the film between the floor beams.
The joints of the film are glued with tape.
Insulation on the ceiling in a private house is laid between the beams, the distance between them is 57-59 cm.

From above, the insulation is covered with roofing felt, ladders are made for walking, or OSB sheets are nailed to the beams, equipping the attic for a warehouse.

The better to insulate the ceiling of a private house

The market of thermal insulation materials is represented by rolled and sheet (in the form of mats) heaters of domestic and foreign manufacturers. For each of the floors, thermal insulation is selected according to the following criteria:

Ecological safety, for overlappings in rooms.
Fire safety, for all floors.
A low thermal conductivity is expressed as W/m K.
Durability.
The cost of material and installation.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with expensive materials does not at all guarantee the quality of the insulation.

Advice. It is important to observe the technology of ceiling insulation in a private house. Thermal insulation is a barrier to the exit of heat from the house. Proper insulation of the ceiling in a private house does not mean that you need to keep warm. The room must not be sealed tightly so that there is no accumulation of harmful substances: carbon dioxide or radon. Therefore, ventilation is also needed in the house.

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house with your own hands

Quite capable of doing basement or basement insulation by ourselves. How to insulate the ceiling in a house on a wooden floor is shown in the picture.

Insulation extruded polystyrene foam (2) "BATEPLEX" 50 mm thick is cut to size between the beam ceiling. Joints and places of contact with the beams are foamed with a sealant. Then the second layer is laid in a checkerboard pattern. All joints and cracks are sealed with mounting foam; GCR is sewn along the beams. Insulation of the ceiling in a private house from the inside with foam is done in the same way. Advantages of insulation with BATEPLEX boards:

The slabs are light, fastened to wood and concrete flooring with liquid nails.
The structure of the plates is vapor and waterproof.
Low thermal conductivity.
A fire-retardant layer of plaster can be applied to the surface of the boards.
Environmental friendliness and durability.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside

When it comes to insulation from inside the building, then here it must be understood that interfloor ceilings are often not isolated, but made soundproofing. From the inside, only those rooms that cannot be insulated from above are isolated. This usually happens when cold enters from the side of the basement or basement. Then the ceiling is insulated from the inside of the basement, as shown above.

And how do they insulate the ceiling of the house, which is under unheated attic? The same as in the last picture, only in addition to the beams they attach vapor barrier film. Then a counter rail is additionally nailed along the beams and then a plasterboard. If the ceiling is concrete, then the BATEPLEX slabs are glued to the concrete slab, the joints are sealed with mounting foam, and then they are decorated with a stretch ceiling.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house so that moisture does not accumulate in the insulation. For this there are waterproofing and vapor barrier materials. These are not only various films, but also a number of materials that have been used for a long time. Everyone knows ruberoid, excellent vapor barrier material, dense glassine, various bitumen-based mastics.

The task of proper insulation- prevent the formation of condensate in the insulation, the temperature difference at which wet steam condenses in the form of fog or dew drops. Moisture should not penetrate into the insulation, and if a small amount of it nevertheless penetrates, then this moisture must be allowed to evaporate.

Advice. Proper installation of the film helps to remove moisture from the insulation. Ventilation gaps serve for the fastest evaporation of moisture from the insulation. When buying a film, ask for instructions on how to install it.

What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in private house. The desire of the owner is to be warm and beautiful. Regardless of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the outside or from the inside, it is necessary that these conditions are met, plus sound insulation. These issues are being addressed suspended ceiling systems. They decorate communications and defects in the main ceiling.

How can I insulate the ceiling in a private house under a stretch ceiling. Such a need arises when the premises are being renovated and, together with thermal insulation, communications are being laid.

Insulate the ceiling in a way along the lags or fixing insulation to the ceiling. Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house are described above. To them, you can also add options for insulating the ceiling in a private house for cold ceilings - thermal insulation using natural materials and expanded clay concrete screed, as well as thermal insulation with bulk and coating materials (a mixture of clay with sawdust, shavings).

Thermal insulation materials have long been used by our northern neighbors Scandinavians. The concept of thermal insulation consists in the use of materials with low thermal conductivity, the use of vapor and waterproofing, temperature control systems and the chemical composition of the air.

From 25 to 40% of the heat is lost through the non-insulated coating of the house. A prudent owner, seeking to optimize heating costs, understands that roof or attic floor insulation is a direct way to save money. In this article, we will look at how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.

There are two ways to insulate an attic floor:

Insulated the ceiling from the side of the premises.
Insulating the ceiling from the side of the cold attic.

Professionals consider ceiling insulation from below not the best way out for the following reasons:

Forced ventilation will be required.
To insulate the ceiling, effective board materials with a high cost are needed.
It is technically difficult to carry out the work.

The advantage of the method is the performance of work in any weather.

Thermal insulation of the floor from above has the advantages:

It is more competent, from the point of view of building thermal physics.
Wider choice of heaters.
The work is much easier to do.

The disadvantage is the dependence on the outside temperature when working with some heaters.

The choice of insulation

When choosing how to insulate the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the following indicators:

Thermal resistance.
Vapor permeability.
Hygroscopicity.
Flammability group.
Volume weight.
Resistance to UV radiation.
Durability.
Safety for human health.
Price.
The possibility of laying without involving a team of builders and renting special equipment.

To insulate the ceiling from below, you can use the following materials:

mineral wool insulation - rigid, semi-rigid slabs or soft mats based on basalt or stone fiber;
expanded polystyrene boards - foamed or extruded;
polyurethane foam boards;
linen slabs.

Insulation from the attic provides the widest choice of materials. This is:

All types of mineral wool insulation - from stone, basalt wool, slag wool, glass wool.
Thermal insulation materials from flax - plates and mats.
Expanded polystyrene boards - foamed, extruded, graphite-containing.
Polyurethane thermal insulation - plates and liquid polyurethane foam.
Bulk insulation - expanded clay, vermiculite, gas silicate.
Sprayed liquid compositions - ecowool, polystyrene.
Environmentally friendly natural insulation - sawdust, straw, reeds, clay.

Mineral wool insulation

These heaters are effective, non-flammable, vapor-permeable, resistant to sunlight, durable, but absorb moisture and lose their thermal insulation qualities. When laying on top of the ceiling or insulating the ceiling, a vapor barrier of the material from below and a waterproofing from above are required.

Slag wool is a very cheap TIM, but it is made from blast furnace waste and may contain residual radiation. Before buying, radiation control of the material is required.

Glass wool is effective, but during installation, its threads form dust that is dangerous for the respiratory system and skin, and its use in housing is highly undesirable.

Linen thermal insulation

TIM from flax waste is an environmentally friendly material, similar to mineral wool in terms of performance, but has an undeniable advantage - even absorbing up to 30% moisture, it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities.

The only negative is the cost is higher than that of the miniplate.

Expanded polystyrenes

Various types of polystyrene foam are an excellent heat-insulating material that has two unpleasant qualities - rodents settle in it, and therefore it requires special protection, and in a fire it emits toxic smoke, although it does not support combustion. The use of expanded polystyrene indoors requires protection with non-combustible cladding.

polyurethane foam

Plates and sprayed foam insulation are by far the most effective heat insulator: they do not absorb moisture, are not afraid of rodents, and are environmentally friendly. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and the need to rent special equipment for spraying.

Bulk insulation

Expanded clay, vermiculite, gas silicate - non-combustible bulk heat-insulating materials, widespread everywhere, with low cost. Disadvantages - absorb moisture, insufficiently effective and heavy.

For thermal insulation of the attic floor in a residential building in central Russia, it will be necessary to pour a layer 40 ... 50 cm thick with a volumetric weight of 200-300 kg / m3. The reinforced concrete slab will withstand such a load, and the overlap along the wooden logs will have to be strengthened.

Liquid heaters

Ecowool is used for thermal insulation of the attic quite often - the material has proven itself well, although it requires special equipment for spraying.

The introduction of flame retardants into the composition of ecowool and polystyrene reduces the combustibility of materials, which makes them safer.

Natural heaters

Natural heaters of local origin, such as straw, reeds, flax, sawdust, clay do not cost anything, or cost a penny, this is their main advantage. The use of these materials will not harm nature and humans, but they are ineffective - you have to lay a thick layer, rot, mice start up in them, they are short-lived.

Use of these materials is desirable, as a last resort.

Underfloor ceiling insulation

How to properly insulate the ceiling in the house? There are several ways to perform insulation from below:

With the help of a wooden crate.

On anchors with subsequent plaster on the grid.

On anchors with plasterboard lining.

The layered construction with the crate device looks like this:

Bearing beams of the attic floor.
Draft floor.
A waterproofing membrane fixed to the beams with a crate mounted in a direction perpendicular to the beams.
In the cells of the crate, the plates of the insulating material are placed on the glue.
A layer of vapor barrier is attached to a double-sided vapor-permeable adhesive tape.
The filing is carried out with plasterboard, chipboard, OSB or clapboard.

For insulation from the bottom of a reinforced concrete slab, you can use the second technology:

Anchors are shot on the ceiling with dowels in a checkerboard pattern after 300 mm.
Insulation plates are wrapped with vapor barrier material, fixing the edges with double-sided vapor-permeable tape.
The insulation is put on the anchors, the anchors are bent.
Mount the plaster mesh, tying it with wire to the anchors.
Perform plaster on the grid.

The third technology differs from the second one in that, after the installation of the heat insulator, guides of the metal frame are attached to the anchors for plasterboard sheathing.

Attic floor insulation technologies from above

In the case of insulation from the attic side, the structure looks like this:

Floor load-bearing beams, if necessary, increasing the height of the beams by installing additional wooden bars.
Draft floor.
Laying the vapor barrier layer with a continuous sheet, with an overlap of 10 ... 15 cm, with fastening on a double-sided vapor-permeable adhesive tape.
Laying TIM - slab, mats or bulk.
The waterproofing layer is a membrane or a material based on a bitumen-polymer.
Air gap - 40 mm.
Laying of walking decks.

The height of the load-bearing floor beams in this structure must be at least 40 mm higher than the thermal insulation.

Insulation with bulk material on the floor will have the following form:

Floor slab.
Vapor barrier.
Bulk thermal insulation.
Polyethylene film.
Boardwalk.

You can insulate the attic floor with a mixture of clay and sawdust. To keep the heat in the house, you will need a TIM layer 20 ... 30 cm thick. To prepare a sawdust-clay mixture, you will need a concrete mixer.

4 ... 5 buckets of clay are poured into a barrel of water or into another container, stirred until completely dissolved;
the mixture is poured into a concrete mixer, sawdust is added;
stir by adding water;
the mixture is poured onto a layer of vapor barrier material.

Drying, the mixture may crack, the cracks are covered with clay.

Conclusion

There are a large number of technologies for warming cold ceilings; a variety of materials can be used for work. There is nothing difficult or impossible in insulating the ceiling with your own hands, although an assistant may be needed.