Monolithic belt on brickwork. Belt in the formwork: what is it, what is its purpose and device technology. The armored belt freezes, what to do

On the foundation and walls of a building built on soft soils, cracks appear over time. The formation of defects is associated with the ability of soils to deform under the weight of the structure during periods of precipitation (wetting), freezing and thawing. In this case, the subsidence of the building may be uneven. How to protect the walls and its foundation from the appearance of cracks due to soil deformation under the influence of adverse phenomena? An experienced builder will answer that you need a reliable monolithic belt in the formwork: what is it, why is it used, and how is it organized.

If a independent production formwork construction causes difficulties, its assembly and installation in Moscow can be ordered in our company. We offer affordable prices and wide selection systems from leading manufacturers.

What is a formwork belt?

A monolithic belt is a beam made of reinforced concrete, which is organized above the foundation and on masonry walls. The solidity of the element is guaranteed by the installation of a temporary formwork system - a structure of panels and fixing elements for pouring liquid concrete in which it solidifies. The formwork makes it possible to produce a beam that is solid and closed along its entire length without connecting seams. This feature of the belt in the formwork is extremely important to increase performance characteristics construction, and therefore the organization of a monolithic beam is given a lot of attention and effort.

A one-piece monolithic belt is formed in the formwork from the following building materials:

• liquid concrete: sand, water, additives, cement, etc.;
• building reinforcement - it is recommended to use steel bars with a wrapping diameter of 12 mm;
• wire for knitting reinforcement - the technology for knitting rods for reinforced concrete products must be strictly observed.

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is organized under the load-bearing elements of the building. If we are talking about a small private house, then the beam is organized around the perimeter external walls. But if the project provides internal partitions, which will serve as a support for the floor slabs, then a one-piece monolithic beam is laid for them.

What is the purpose of the belt?

• combining the load-bearing parts of the building into a single structure;
• uniform distribution of loads on load-bearing elements;
• alignment of the walls horizontally, which facilitates and improves the quality of further installation and construction work;
• foundation for future floors (necessarily used in multi-storey buildings);
• gives the building monolithic strength and durability.

The formation of a closed monolith-belt is mandatory if the walls are built from hollow building materials, for example, cinder block, shell rock, foam concrete or aerated concrete. According to construction GOSTs and SNiP standards, it is also necessary when building a house in an area with increased seismic activity. Also, multi-storey residential buildings are not erected without a monolithic beam.

Characteristics of a monolithic closed belt

It is extremely difficult to perform the installation of belts without formwork in accordance with the standards, since it is necessary to maintain the following parameters at the stage of pouring concrete:

• the height of the reinforced concrete element is not less than 20 cm;
• the width is strictly equal to the width of the foundation, wall;
• evenness and smoothness of the surfaces of the reinforced concrete belt;
• horizontal evenness of the element;
• absence of seams and defects on surfaces.

The formwork system must be stable and not deform under the pressure of concrete. Between its components should not be large cracks. building codes allow gaps of no more than 2 mm. The forming temporary structure must be rigid and resistant to external loads. Therefore, for its organization, materials are selected that can withstand weather and climatic, mechanical loads for a long time. But the most important thing is moisture. The quality with which the formwork for the monolithic belt was assembled and installed determines the physical and technical characteristics of the reinforced concrete element.

Recommended building materials for installation of reinforced concrete belt formwork

In private housing construction, pine or coniferous boards 40 mm thick are used to equip formwork systems. But when assembling the forming system for a monolithic beam, you need to take care of the evenness of the external and internal surfaces of the reinforced concrete element. Therefore, it is more competent to make formwork for the belt from sheets laminated plywood- they are moisture resistant, do not delaminate, can be used later in the household. Alternative option can be chipboard with a polished surface. It is profitable to buy sheets with dimensions of 2.5 m × 1.25 m - cutting in half, we get two even formwork panels with dimensions of 2.5 m × 0.62 m with perfectly smooth surfaces.

To assemble the system forming a monolithic belt, you will also need:

• rails and stops measuring 50 mm × 50 mm;
• self-tapping screws and drill;
• connecting elements for opposite panels - reinforcement or a steel bar of at least 12 mm in diameter (the length is 1.5-2 cm longer than the width of the formwork);
• reinforcement frame (you can use a welded sect - an analogue of a knitted one);
• concrete grade M250.

The pouring of the liquid solution is correctly carried out using a deep vibrator. It will ensure the compaction of the mixture, which means the quality of the reinforced concrete monolith. With a belt thickness of 300 mm or more, the steel bars tightening the shields are laid in two tiers - the lower one is strictly under the upper one. If slabs 2.5 m long are chosen to organize the walls of the shield, then at least 6 tightening rods will need to be installed. When using conventional chipboard or boards, we recommend additional waterproofing. Coat the building material (including rails and props) with, for example, used motor oil. This will guarantee the stability of the formwork elements to weather loads.

In order for a house built by oneself to be durable and serve without problems long years, it is necessary to ensure structural rigidity and high-quality bonding of walls. To do this, it is necessary to erect an armored belt under the floor slabs.

For the construction of a high-quality reinforced belt, it is important that the circular casting process be continuous and one-time.

This important detail load-bearing structure is a solid strip of concrete, reinforced with metal, which is laid along the perimeter of the house under the ceiling.

A monolithic reinforced belt evenly distributes pressure along the entire perimeter of the wall and provides flat surface for subsequent overlay.

A monolithic belt is erected along the perimeter of the walls of each floor under construction, on last floor he plays the role of the base for the roof and. At the same time, window and door lintels can be made minimum size with a small amount of reinforcement, since the main load is assumed and evenly distributed by the belt.

How necessary is an armored belt?

Most often, a monolithic belt is a construction necessity, but in some cases such strengthening of the structure is not required.

You can do without an armored belt if:

• the foundation is poured below the freezing level of the soil;
• the walls of the house are made of bricks.

But even if these conditions are met, it is necessary that the floor slab extends to both sides of the wall by at least 12 cm, and the building itself is located in a seismically safe area.

An armored belt is necessary if:

If the walls are made of gas silicate blocks, then the armored belt is necessary, regardless of the purpose of the room on the second floor.

• The house is multi-storey. In this case, the presence of monolithic belts is prescribed by the norms;
• The walls are built of porous materials, such as cinder blocks or aerated concrete. Under the uneven pressure of the floor slab, these materials begin to wrinkle and quickly collapse;
• The building is being built on weak ground. In this case, there is a danger of subsidence of the house and, as a result, the formation of cracks in the walls. The monolithic belt will act as a screed and prevent cracks. Inspect the old buildings in the neighboring areas. If they are covered with cracks going down from the roof and up from the ground and the corners of the windows, then the construction of a reinforced belt is definitely necessary;
• The foundation of the building is made of prefabricated blocks or shallow. The armored belt will evenly distribute the pressure of the plates around the entire perimeter of the foundation;
• The house is located in a seismically active zone.

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How to build a reinforced belt?

A monolithic belt is a structurally simple element. A formwork is built along the perimeter of the wall, into which it is mounted metal fittings. Then the structure is poured with concrete and insulated.

For the construction of a monolithic armored belt, the following materials are required:

For a 2-storey house, an armopoyas is made after the walls of the first floor are erected, before laying the floor slabs and after the second floor is erected, before the roof is installed.

• Plywood/boards;
• Fast installation;
• self-tapping screws;
• Nails;
• Ribbed metal rods;
• bricks/stones;
• Concrete / sand, cement, crushed stone;
• Cellophane film;
• Insulation (polystyrene);
• knitting wire.

And tools:

• Welding machine;
• Screwdriver;
• Perforator;
• Concrete mixer;
• Building level;
• A hammer.

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The first stage: the construction of formwork

Most often, the formwork is assembled on the basis that the armored belt will be approximately 15-30 cm in height, and in width it will either be narrower than the wall or the same size as it. In the second case, the formwork moves deeper into the wall, which makes it possible to fill the resulting gap with insulation in the future.

The optimal materials for formwork are plywood, OSB boards, boards. The formwork must be installed in such a way that it top part was in perfect horizontal plane. This can be achieved by adjusting the installation using the building level.

There are several ways to install formwork:

If, when installing the formwork, step back 2-3 cm inward, and after pouring the "niche" fill with heat-insulating material, heat loss through the armored belt will decrease.

• Fastening by electric welding. In this case, the anchors are passed through the formwork walls, and the plugs are welded;
• Fastening with quick mounting. This method is much faster and easier to perform, but it requires some pre-training. Installation practically does not hold in materials such as aerated concrete or cinder block. If the main part of the building was built from such materials, then the last rows under the proposed belt must be laid out of brick.

Holes are drilled through the board attached to the wall at a distance of 700 mm from each other. A fungus is inserted into the holes and secured with a screw. Quick installation is better to take 6x100 mm, and a 6 mm drill. When removing the drill from the resulting hole, it must be slightly swung in different sides. The hole will increase slightly and the wood fibers will not interfere with the installation of the fungus.

We fix self-tapping screws at a distance of 1 m on the upper edge of the board, and nails are similarly driven into the front brickwork. Self-tapping screws are pulled together in pairs with nails using a knitting wire.

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The second stage: the manufacture of fittings

The frame is prepared on the wall in a gutter from removable formwork because it is very heavy when finished.

For the manufacture of the reinforcing cage, it is necessary to use only ribbed rods. concrete mortar attached to uneven surface ribs and thus provides greater load-bearing capacity and resistance to stretching.

The rods should be 12 mm in diameter and 6 m long. For transverse fastening rods with a diameter of 10 mm are required. The transverse frame must be welded along the edges and along the central part, the remaining transverse rods are not welded, but connected with wire. In the process of assembling the frame, it is necessary to minimize welding work. The fact is that the welded seam becomes less durable due to overheating, and this is unacceptable when erecting a reinforced belt. Most of the parts should be assembled with a tie wire.

The wire can be taken of the smallest thickness, its function is to maintain the integrity of the frame shape during concrete pouring. From the use of thick wire, the frame will not become stronger, and the installation of such a structure will require much more money and effort.

When the two parts of the frame are ready, they are stacked, forming between them small space. Then they are welded in the center and along the edges, forming a finished frame, which in cross section has the shape of a square or rectangle. It is best to do this directly in the formwork, since the resulting part has a fairly large weight.

Between the reinforcement and each side of the structure there must be a distance of at least 5 cm. To raise the reinforcement above the horizontal surface, bricks or stones are placed under the frame.

When assembling parts into a solid reinforced belt, there is no need to use welding, you can simply overlap 0.2 - 0.3 m between adjacent parts of the frame. The structure must lie flat inside the formwork; to achieve this condition, it is necessary to use the building level.

Building codes for the construction of structures of different parameters provide for separate structural solutions. Their implementation is not always necessary, since some designs can be replaced by others, and taking into account third factors, the need to use the recommended tool completely loses its relevance. But when it comes to matters of reliability at home, then there should be no compromises. One of the structural elements, whose function is aimed at increasing the strength of walls, ceilings and foundations, is a monolithic belt. It is laid under the ceiling of the building in cases where the base parts of the frame cannot be in full take on the load. If we omit this nuance, then during operation, the formation of cracks at the joints of walls with ceilings is not excluded.

General information about technology

The need for this technical solution due to the fact that in the case of thin walls, the loads from the floors used will exert excessive pressure on the overall structure of the building. In such situations, additional reinforcement is practiced due to a balanced distribution of mechanical forces. Actually, the belt of which goes to the basement walls is the first to be used in such equipment. It should be noted that these walls are constructed simultaneously with the ceilings. However, the sequence to a large extent depends on the material from which the foundation itself is made. So, if the foundation of the building is being built on the ground without geological restrictions, then the belt may even be superfluous. However, a monolithic belt is usually arranged along the upper intersection of the above-ground part of the foundation walls. This is especially true for houses that are built from masonry building materials such as expanded clay concrete.

Belt Composition

As the name implies, the basis is a monolithic beam made of concrete. Actually cement mixture acts as the basis of the belt, forming a reliable support. If we are talking about construction in a home construction site, then you should also prepare means for creating formwork. A niche is formed from the beam for the subsequent formwork. The formwork can be made from boards 2.5 cm thick. The better the wood, the better the geometry of the structure will turn out - accordingly, the monolithic belt will fit more neatly into the frame of the house. Special attention is devoted to the reinforcement of the structure. Reinforcement with metal bars is the key to the strength of the beam itself, so you should also prepare for the introduction of reinforcing bars, possibly using a welding machine or specialized tool for knitting iron rods.

Implementation of the plank base

The wall or foundation is immersed in plank formwork. As a rule, the belt has a height of 30 cm. As for the width, it corresponds to the masonry material, taking into account the thickness of the heat insulator. These parameters should be taken into account when constructing the formwork. First you need to fix the board with the bottom side to the wall with self-tapping screws. Both sides of the formwork are connected by transverse fasteners. By means of the level, the horizontal of the lower part of the structure should be controlled so that the monolithic belt is evenly installed and does not require further adjustments. The same must be done at the top. In the created structure, the basis for the reinforced belt will be laid. It is important to note that the most problematic areas of this box are corner places where the boards form joints. These points should be further strengthened and, if possible, sealed with special compounds so that the solution does not leak out.

Reinforcement of a monolithic belt

In strengthening the structure, metal reinforcement is used, the size of which is selected depending on the parameters of the overlap. Usually, a rod with a large diameter is used to strengthen the span above the foundation. The standard diameter is 12 mm. Two lines of such rods are used in conjunction with the walls. Typically, installation is carried out in a ladder configuration. That is, the elements are introduced obliquely in increments of 100 cm. For the lower levels with the same foundation, four rod contours are used. Reinforcement is introduced into a monolithic belt not separately, but in the form of a formed rectangle. For this case, you will need welding machine, although you can limit yourself to strapping. also in modern houses use fiberglass reinforcement, which is characterized by lower weight and overall dimensions, while maintaining the same strength indicators. It is quite possible to prefer this reinforcement option, but it costs more. If there are doubts about the bearing capacity of the foundation, then this option will justify itself even taking into account the overestimated estimate, since plastic fittings reduce stress on the base.

pouring concrete

There are no special requirements for the concrete mixture for the reinforcing belt. For it, if desired, you can turn on the crushed stone filler, if we are talking about a large area of ​​​​filling. Also, before performing the procedure, the formwork should be checked for reliability and tightness. In extreme cases, you can bring the solution to optimal performance viscosity - so that it does not spread, being laid in a frame. Some technologies provide for the installation of a monolithic belt with the laying of mesh reinforcement in an already poured solution. However, this solution is only justified if the position of the external reinforcement elements is to be monitored. After the event is completed, the structure should be expected to harden. The full achievement of strength qualities, as a rule, takes about 4-5 days.

Implementation of communications

Even before pouring, you can arrange all the necessary communications that will take place in the belt laying area. For laying pipelines, special sleeves are used through which the contour is passed. Chimney and air duct structures are immediately installed at the place of use, and later they can be connected to indoor and roof systems. All plugs are recommended to be fixed through with self-tapping screws. The flight of stairs is the most difficult element that can be laid through a monolithic belt. A formwork is also installed under a monolithic slab with a march, and its corners are additionally reinforced with diagonal reinforcement bars. That is, the possibility of introducing this communication should be considered at the reinforcement stage. To fasten the stairs through the formwork, the rods of the lower reinforced belt are passed.

When laying a belt in single-layer walls, inexperienced craftsmen often ignore the heat transfer indicators of the structure, which is why the heat-insulating function suffers during the operation of the house. You can correct the error by warming outside walls with mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Optimal Thickness layer - 10 cm. You should also correctly calculate the position that the monolithic belt will take relative to floors and walls. Typically, the beam is lowered below the floor level by 4 cm. In this configuration, the elements of the supporting structure will not rest on the walls, but just on the intermediate concrete belt. Due to its base and the reinforcing elements placed in it, the distribution of loads from the floor will be more uniform and reliable.

Alternative in the form of a prefabricated monolithic slab

Despite the function of unloading the gravity transmitted from the ceiling to the walls, the monolithic beam itself acts as a rather serious load element due to its mass. And if for the walls this part acts as a load weakening factor, then for the foundation, in any case, the pressure rises. Therefore, sometimes on the weak fundamentals use prefabricated monolithic belts. The presence of cavities in them eliminates excess weight, and in terms of thermal conductivity, experts note more favorable characteristics from the point of view of operation. On the other hand, the belt has an undoubted advantage in terms of strength. Still, the massiveness and heavy weight endow the overall frame with reliability and resistance to ground shifts and external influences.

Conclusion

The function of the reinforcing belt is still perceived ambiguously among professional builders. The need for this design is obvious when it comes to thin walls and in general about the weak bearing part. On the other hand, the monolithic belt of the house does not at all relieve the supporting elements from loads, but only redistributes the mass of the upper part of the building with ceilings. Practice shows that the introduction of this beam also does not cause serious negative consequences. And even if we exclude the function of the belt as an optimizer of loads on walls and foundations, then it acts as a useful intermediate link in the house from the point of view of laying engineering communications.

Hello! The foundation is not buried. Partly - self-construction, but the construction path was determined by a person who has been engaged in foundations for more than 50 years, a professor at our University, an honored builder of the Republic of Karelia (and so on. regalia).
With normal soil, crushed stone of a large fraction was brought, in a very in large numbers, filled with a height of about 50-70 cm above the ground level, and in area protruding beyond the perimeter of the future foundation by a couple of meters on each side. Aligned. Then a large construction vibratory roller was found (it worked half a kilometer at the facility), which drove this rubble for a couple of hours. To be honest, only the first "passages" of the vibratory roller apparently squandered rubble to the eye. After that, to level the level of the horizon, a thin layer on top of the rubble is sand. Further, waterproofing on the top, formwork and reinforcement. I knitted armature for the first time, myself. 14th reinforcement, along the perimeter and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bbearing walls (under the wall and a meter to the right and left) every 10 centimeters, the rest - 15 cm. Two planes at a distance of 30 centimeters from each other. It was recommended to knit reinforcement less often, and a thickness of 30 centimeters is enough. It took 5 tons of reinforcement for a foundation 12 by 12 meters, and at 42 cm thickness - 66 cubes of concrete grade 250. I understand that it is possible that I relaid the foundation a little, but that year I was looking for people on foundation work. They asked for work from 200 thousand rubles. and higher. I decided that it would be better to invest this money in the foundation than in improving the well-being of strangers. For two weeks of vacation, slowly, with the help of my father, they tied the armature. I was sure in every node. They poured it in 5 hours with imported concrete using a concrete pump at the base of the Isuzu car. I plan to start laying the walls as soon as the snow melts, the brick is already on the site. I will reinforce the walls to the conscience. Now I'm looking for normal masons. It hurts too much requests they have now. They ask for rough masonry for 2800 rubles. per cube, and even additional payments for each movement of the hand and turn of the head.
They are pressed under the plates to make an armored belt 5 cm thick, with two thin reinforcements inside. It is clear that this, like an armored belt, is of little use. Just a leveling screed. The screed is understandable to do and so it will have to be done, but is it worth bothering with a full-fledged armo-belt 30-40 centimeters thick and the corresponding reinforcement - THIS IS THE QUESTION! I would be grateful for any constructive advice. The fact is that for aerated concrete - and there would be no questions, I would do it unambiguously. And with a brick - it is not clear yet. It seems that brick, as a material for load-bearing walls in private housing construction, has generally gone out of fashion. All are built exclusively from aerated concrete.

Armopoyas or brickwork which is better. Formwork from boards

Reinforced belt (armopoyas) is a closed reinforced structure, repeating the outline of the walls of the building and blocking their deformation as a result of the redistribution of loads. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid the effects of adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil subsidence, etc. Reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armopoyas acquires particular relevance in the construction of houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

The main functions of the armored belt

• strengthening the walls;

Types of reinforced belts

Grillage.

Grillage

Socle armored belt

Armor belt under Mauerlat

So is it worth the risk and instead of a full-fledged armored belt made of concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt made of bricks? In our opinion, no! Brickwork is only slightly stronger than blockwork, even if reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load on the walls. This will lead to

kupildoma.ru

Brick armored belt – PROBrick

Reinforced belt (armopoyas) is a closed reinforced structure that repeats the outline of the walls of the building and blocks their deformation as a result of the redistribution of loads. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid the formation of cracks from the effects of adverse weather conditions, during shrinkage of the house, subsidence of the soil, etc. Reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armopoyas acquires particular relevance in the construction of houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

Brick armored belt- this is the usual masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. At first glance, this approach is simpler than pouring a full-fledged monolithic armored belt made of concrete with reinforcement. However, is this approach sufficient? Will such reinforced masonry a full-fledged armored belt? To begin with, let's figure out what types of armored belts are and what functions are assigned to them.

The main functions of the armored belt

• strengthening the walls;
• ensures uniform distribution of loads;
• prevents the formation of cracks;
• helps to level the brickwork;
• maintaining the integrity of the structure during shrinkage of the house.

Types of reinforced belts

It is customary to distinguish 4 types of reinforced belts.

Grillage.

Grillage- this is the lower, sub-foundation armored belt, which is the key to the strength of the entire building. In addition, it can connect piles of columnar and pile foundations. The height of the grillage is from 30 to 50 cm, the width is 70 - 120 cm. For the manufacture, reinforcement with a thickness of 12 - 14 mm is used. For greater reliability and durability, concrete must cover reinforcing cage 5 cm on each side.

Socle armored belt

It is laid around the entire perimeter of the outer walls. In the event that slabs serve as an overlap, it is recommended to do it on all load-bearing walls. The main function of the socle armored belt is the distribution of loads on the foundation. Mesh reinforcement with a height of 20 - 40 cm is used;

Interfloor (unloading) belt

It is built to strengthen and tighten the walls, as well as to prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, it perceives and distributes the load of the entire structure. Stacked on everything bearing walls;

Armor belt under Mauerlat

Armo-belt under the Mauerlat - performs a number of useful functions: it allows you to securely fix the Mauerlat itself, distributes the load from the roof, gables, truss system, aligns the horizontal of the entire structure under construction. It is mounted along the perimeter of external walls, in some cases (with inclined rafters) - on the middle load-bearing wall. When creating a reinforcing cage, the studs are brought out above it. A thread is made at the end of the rods, and corresponding holes are made in the Mauerlat. After the poured concrete hardens and gains strength, a Mauerlat is installed on the studs and fixed with bolts.

In the manufacture of armored belts, special requirements are placed on the quality of concrete. It is recommended to use cement grade not lower than M200. fill concrete mix produced at one time, which will allow it to solidify evenly, set well. For higher strength, concrete is periodically moistened.

Is it worth making an armored belt out of brick?

So is it worth the risk and instead of a full-fledged armored belt made of concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt made of bricks? In our opinion, no! Brickwork is only slightly stronger than blockwork, even if reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load on the walls. This will cause some fragments and sections of brickwork to experience high blood pressure, compared with the rest of the wall, and this is dangerous for the appearance of cracks and even complete destruction walls. Therefore, it would be right not to take risks, and make a full-fledged reinforcement with an armored belt made of reinforced concrete.

Read also:

www.kirpich.nnov.ru

Armopoyas. What is it and how to do it

What is an armored belt?

A reinforced belt, also known as a monolithic belt or seismic belt, is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole. Both a monolithic, concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with the distribution of the load. Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load, say, from floor slabs to walls. If the task is also to tie the walls into a single whole, for example, from the bursting load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then a concrete reinforced belt is needed here.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands

We figured out what the armored belt is, let's find out how to make it with our own hands. With a brick armored belt, everything is simple. Usually, masonry is made of solid red brick of the minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement with masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.

First you need to set the formwork. It can be both a wooden formwork, and a “tray” or fixed formwork, if we are talking about an armored belt on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or custom made trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a conventional gas block. It is enough to make a laying of a thin gas block from the outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.

Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two at the top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.

The standard reinforcement overlap should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you put 12 mm reinforcement, then increasing it, you need to overlap by about 40 cm.

In the corners, reinforcement is necessary bend so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.

It is advisable to put the reinforcement frame on plastic clamps for the thickness of the concrete protective layer. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixatives for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.

Studs for Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcing cage for subsequent fixation of floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the armored belt with concrete.

If you will pour purchased concrete, choose the brand M200-M250. This brand of strength is enough for private construction.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use the universal recipe for the proportions of concrete for the armored belt: 1 part cement grade 500, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.

You can also use one of our construction calculators for calculating the composition of concrete. Do not forget to add a plasticizer for concrete to the batch. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt will be more durable.

After pouring, cover the armored belt with a film to avoid sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.

Armopoyas will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 28 days after pouring.

The most frequent questions on the topic of the reinforced belt.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

• on block foundation
• on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow-core slabs and wooden floor beams (to prevent punching). Here the armored belt can be brick
• under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this very Mauerlat

Is it possible to fill in the armored belt in winter, in frost?

Filling the armo-belt in winter time occupation is dubious. However, if you really need to pour it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special antifreeze additives to concrete. Use as little water as possible to mix concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. AT minus temperature, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any building supermarket.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armored belt?

The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.

Armo-belt freezes, what to do?

If you or your employees forgot to insulate the armored belt before pouring, then it will have to be insulated now. They insulate the armored belt from the outside.

Condensation on the armored belt. The armored belt is sweating. What to do?

Insulate. Other options: increase the temperature in the room, reduce the humidity of the room.

Is it possible to fill in the armo-belt in parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.

Video on the topic of reinforced belt

o-repair.com

Do-it-yourself armored belt for a brick wall

Do-it-yourself armored belt for aerated concrete or brick wall

In the process of building a house, at certain stages, questions such as: does it make sense to make a reinforced belt, how many such belts should the structure have, how to make it right and what materials are best used for this?

Armopoyas is a monolithic closed reinforced concrete tape that follows the contour of the walls.

List of items that are needed:

• concrete grade 200;
• rods;
• excavator;
• sand or granulated slag;
• fittings;
• wire.

Why do you need an armored belt and where is it installed

Grillage - the upper part of the pile foundation, distributing the load on the load-bearing elements of the building.

First of all, you need to figure out what a reinforced belt is and why it needs to be done. The reinforced belt is a layer of reinforced concrete, which is located along all the external walls of the building completely around the entire perimeter. Its task is to increase the strength of load-bearing external walls made of aerated concrete or brick and maintain integrity in the process of soil subsidence. During construction, several such belts should be used.

The first reinforced belt is also called grillage. In the process of its manufacture, it is necessary to pour concrete into a trench that was dug under

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How to make an armored belt - types of belts and how to fill them (+ diagrams)

They call it an armored belt reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external / internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating ground, and ground seismic activity. The list of internal factors includes all household building appliances used in interior decoration Houses. If it is wrong to make an armored belt, then because of these phenomena, the walls will simply crack, and even worse, they will disperse. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installing the armored belt will be discussed in this article.

Kinds

There are 4 types of armored belt:

• grillage;
• basement;
• interfloor;
• under Mauerlat.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, prepare tools / materials:

1. Fittings.
2. Cement.
3. Sand.
4. Rubble.
5. Wire for bandaging fittings.
6. Boards.
7. Self-tapping screws.
8. Brick.
9. Shovel.
10. Concrete mixer.
11. Crowbar / crowbar.
12. Welding machine.

In order for all the work you have done to be done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the technique of manufacturing an arm mesh / frame and formwork.

Fabrication of reinforcing mesh/framework

In order for the armo-belt to be of high quality, and, accordingly, the house is reliable, you need to know how to properly make the armo-mesh / frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out with a knitting wire, and not with a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the place near the weld being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams in the manufacture of the mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the rest of the connecting nodes are connected.

Laid frame in armored belt

The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, a thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh / frame does not depend on it.

For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase the bearing capacity of the structure. Such a belt can work in tension.

To make a frame, take 2 cores with a thickness of 12 mm and a length of 6 m, while for transverse reinforcement you will have enough rods with a thickness of 10 mm. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods just knit. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap forms. Weld them from the edges and in the center. Thus, you will get a frame. For the manufacture of the belt, there is no need to weld frames. They are overlapped by 0.2–0.3 m.

formwork

The installation and fixing of the formwork is carried out by several methods. to install wooden shields, it is necessary to pass anchors through them, mount plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it does not squeeze out under the weight of concrete.

To fix the formwork when pouring the interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed on the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach a wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a fungus into it and hammer in the screw.

The hole in the shield should be a little more than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to freely install the fungus.

wooden formwork

The upper part of the formwork is also fixed quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in the self-tapping screw, not the screw. So, make a hole in the facing brick. Then drive reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail / rebar into a vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and fittings with a knitting wire. The distance between the fasteners is 1–1.2 m. Such a fastener is able to withstand the upcoming loads.

After the armo-belt hardens, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar / nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets in a day. In this case, the formwork can be dismantled the next day. AT cold season this procedure is carried out after a few days.

Grillage

Initially, the depth of the foundation should be determined. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of occurrence. ground water. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.

After special equipment, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and level as possible.

Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50-100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This event may be needed to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.

Making a frame for grillage

After backfill sand cushion, it must be tamped down. To cope with the task faster, pour water over the sand.

Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, reinforcement of 4-5 cores should be used, the diameter of each rod should be 10-12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be embedded in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, laying halves of the brick under it.

Foundation grillage

If you are building a house on heaving soil or where there is a high level of groundwater, then the grillage should be made more durable. For this, instead of reinforcing mesh reinforcement cage should be used. He imagines 2 grids, consisting of 4 cores with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.

For the manufacture of the mesh, a knitting wire is used, not a welding seam.

For the grillage, concrete M200 should be used. In order for the pouring height to correspond to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal to the height of the grillage in length. It will serve as your guide.

Socle armored belt

Before erecting walls on the foundation, the base armored belt should be poured. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along the external walls, but this cannot be done along the internal load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as an additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the basement belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm; concrete M200 and above is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. Reinforcement is laid in one layer.

If you need to strengthen the basement belt, then use thicker reinforcement or install lived more. Another option is to lay the reinforcement mesh in 2 layers.

Formwork for basement armored belt

The thickness of the basement and outer walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the basement armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, it is necessary to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete, having previously laid reinforcement in it.

In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a basement armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, reinforce the basement belt, while using larger diameter reinforcement, which supposedly improves the bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.

The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the basement belt is an addition or reinforcement of the bearing capacity of the armored belt for the foundation. Collaboration grillage and basement belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level groundwater deposits.

Interfloor

Between the wall and the floor slabs, you also need to make an armored belt. It is poured along the outer walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. The interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door / window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.

If an armored belt is installed on the walls of a material that does not perceive the load well, then the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.

Formwork for interfloor armored belt

Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10-12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the thickness of the walls varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided brickwork can be used as formwork, as for the basement belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and for external facing. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. With a smaller thickness of the walls, the backing brick should be laid on the edge or a wooden formwork should be used instead, and on the outside, just as in the previous case, the face brick is laid.

Under Mauerlat

It is possible to fill in the armo-belt under the Mauerlat only after the glue / mortar for laying the walls has hardened. The technology by which the armored belt is laid on aerated concrete differs in the formwork device, but we will talk about this a little later. Manufacturing wooden formwork carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts of sand per 1 part of cement and 4.8 parts of crushed stone. Thus, you will get concrete M400.

After pouring, eliminate the remnants of air bubbles in the mass. To accomplish these tasks, use a building vibrator or pierce the liquid mass with a rod.

Mauerlat mount

With a monolithic armo-belt device, the rules for attaching the Mauerlat should be observed. During the installation of the frame from the reinforcement, vertical segments should be removed from it to the height determined in the project. The reinforcement rods should rise above the armored belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. In the timber, it is necessary to make through holes, equal to the diameter reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. Yes, you will succeed secure fastening which will enable you to quality installation roofs of any configuration.

Armopoyas for aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks inferior to brick in strength. If, when arranging an armored belt on brick walls ah, it is not necessary to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the masonry process, then things are different with aerated concrete. We have already discussed how to make an armored belt on a wooden formwork, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from D500 U-shaped aerated concrete blocks. Although it is worth noting right away that this technology is more expensive.

In this case, everything is extremely simple. Install the blocks on the wall in the usual way. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your house will be more durable and reliable.

If you have any questions on the topic, then ask them to the specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. There is personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.

Video

You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house from aerated concrete from the video:

kakpravilnosdelat.ru

Armopoyas under Mauerlat and do-it-yourself floor slabs

Table of contents:

1. Why do you need an armored belt?
2. Formwork fastening and rebar frame
3. Armopoyas brick house

Armopoyas protects the house from deforming loads. It is especially required for a structure that is built from porous materials. For example, brick, foam and gas blocks. Such loads are put on the house that the masonry can be broken and “crawl” under the influence of internal forces. It is also exposed to external factors. Unloading belts are arranged at different levels of the building. For example, foundation, basement, between floors, as well as an armored belt under the Mauerlat, which takes on the weight of the roof. Which reinforcing structures are required depends on the material of the walls and the load to which they will be subjected.

Why do you need an armored belt?

Difficult soils lead to uneven shrinkage of the building. In addition to them, wind loads and temperature changes lead over time to the distortion of the structure and its destruction. All this requires the strengthening of load-bearing walls. Another important reason is the use of materials of different stiffness. For example, interfloor reinforced concrete slabs they are placed on the walls of the gas block, and reliable fastening directly to the blocks is impossible.

In such cases, an armored belt is necessarily arranged under the floor slabs, which is located on the line of their support on the facade. Similarly, roofing cake cannot be mounted directly on blocks. A heavy roof will push them down and sideways, leading to cracks over time. The fact is that the blocks are well tolerated by a uniform, and not a point load, therefore, when constructing a beam top harness it is required to make the installation of the distribution belt.

It is laid on the top row of blocks and combines the roof and facade into a single strong structure. Thus, the load from roofing system takes on the armo-belt under the Mauerlat, which becomes a kind of intermediary between the blocks and the timber for attaching the rafters. In addition to this type of reinforced concrete belts, a foundation reinforcing system is arranged (inside the foundation itself) and a basement system, which is located on the foundation (usually on a tape).

Important: a house made of gas blocks is necessarily reinforced between floors before the laying of floor slabs and after the construction of the upper floor before the roof is installed.

How is the armored belt arranged?

The design is located along the perimeter of the building, without interruption. It is a monolith that runs along the contour of the walls. Its device is similar to strip foundation, but it is supported by the erected walls of the facade and internal load-bearing partitions. AT low-rise construction you can make an armored belt with your own hands, provided that the ready-made concrete is delivered upstairs. It is also necessary to ensure that the entire structure is filled with it quickly so that it does not begin to solidify unevenly.

How to make a reinforcing belt?

Work begins after the mortar or adhesive for laying the wall material has hardened. It should be noted that for gas blocks it is better to use a special glue, which can make a seam 3 mm thick without losing the quality characteristics of the facade. The technology by which the armored belt for aerated concrete is laid is distinguished by the formwork device. Wooden shields are used for it ( standard version) or special U-blocks brand D500. The second way is more preferable.

The blocks are fixed formwork with good parameters heat saving. This means that concrete will not turn into one big bridge of cold and will not require additional insulation. For removable wooden formwork, boards are used, knocked down from boards 2 cm thick, which are pre-assembled on the ground.

How to securely attach the formwork?

An important point is the fastening of the removable formwork. It is stitched through with reinforcement, and then iron knobs are welded to the rods from the outside. Also, the shields are pulled together with wire and knocked down with boards, placing them on top. Reliable installation formwork is important if the mortar will be supplied through a pressurized hose from a cement truck. If they manage on their own, they lift the cement in buckets. In this case, there is less risk that the formwork will break under the pressure of concrete.

Rebar frame

After the formwork is installed, a frame is made of longitudinal rods d = 12 mm in the amount of at least 3 lines. For crossbars, rods of the same thickness are taken if an armored belt is being built for floor slabs between floors. But if it is installed under the Mauerlat, the reinforcement can be taken thinner (8-10 mm). The intersections are knitted with wire. It should be noted that it is necessary to make 2 contours of the frame of rods.

Concrete is prepared according to the formula:

• sand 2.8 parts,
• cement 1 part,
• crushed stone 4.8 parts.

This ratio of ingredients makes it possible to obtain concrete grade M400. After pouring the solution, the remains of air bubbles in the mass should be excluded. To do this, use a building vibrator or hit the concrete with a rod, pierce another liquid mass to release air.

How to fix the Mauerlat?

It should be said that monolithic device the armo-belt requires compliance with the rules for attaching the Mauerlat. Even during the installation of the frame, vertical segments of reinforcement are removed from it to the calculated height. They should rise above the armored belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Threads are cut at the ends of these segments, and through holes of the same diameter are made in the corresponding places in the beam. Thus, a reliable fastening is created, corresponding to the screed with a bolt and nut, which will allow you to securely mount the roof with any design features.

Armopoyas brick house

For brick walls, you can make a simplified version of reinforcement with reinforcement. Instead of a monolithic one, they arrange an armored belt made of bricks directly during laying. Depending on the load, the facade and internal load-bearing walls are reinforced with reinforcement or a special mesh. Do this every 4 rows. In this case, formwork is not required, since the rods are laid directly on the brick during the construction of the row. If a mesh is taken, its thickness should be from 5 mm.

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Armopoyas under the ceiling is needed or not

The question is whether you need an armo-belt or not if you are building a house from blocks, I was puzzled by this question when I came across a video clip in which someone built a house from large-format ceramic blocks and under the floor slabs he began to masonry from ordinary solid brick, lifted it into two rows and laid slabs on it. The main argument for the device of the armo-belt was that he was not sure of the strength of the Porotherm block. It became interesting to me and I turned to the documentation of the manufacturer of the Porotherm block. From these documents it turned out that out of 44 it is possible to build buildings up to the 8th floor and no reinforcing belts for floors are required. I did not stop there and decided to search the Internet for photos and video materials of houses from large-format blocks.

My searches were crowned with success and I found videos and photos in which the block broke off under hollow core slabs, the block was destroyed along its entire height or from the top to a depth of 2 cm to 5 cm, this did not undoubtedly alert me, and I assumed that this happens in places the greatest tension. In practice, it is necessary to form a crack on the block, and it usually occurs when a point impact is applied to it, which is why when laying blocks warm ceramics you need to use soft rubber mallets. It immediately became clear that when laying the slabs, large pebbles could get into the solution, and when the slab was lowered, they acted pointwise on the block, which led to its destruction. Having understood what was happening with the block, I decided that there was no need to make a massive armored belt, which would also be a completely unnecessary cold bridge. It is clear that it is enough to first make a screed, and not for the entire thickness of the wall, but only for the depth of support of the floor slab and a thickness of 10mm-15mm. This is also convenient because you can make the screed under the level and the plates will be easier and more even to put relative to each other. When laying the slab, there is a high probability that the solution will fall into the honeycombs of the block and the slab will not lie flat, the screed will prevent the solution from falling into the block.

In addition, in order to document whether an armored belt is needed for ceilings for porotherms or not, I will give drawings of design solutions for the construction of ceilings from hollow core slabs and monolithic floors different thickness for walls made of porotherm 38, 44, 51, the solution for monolithic slabs can also be applied to the installation of floors from PNO slabs. The manufacturer Porotem ordered a design calculation in scientific research institute building structures, structural calculations were made for 6, 7-storey buildings from porotherm. I want to make only a few of my own comments on two nodes, namely, the support of the slab on the masonry mesh directly through the mortar, the result may be the solution being squeezed out and into the block, as a result of which the slab will not lie on the mortar, but on the grid, this is not very good for the block because the load on the block from the slab will not be evenly distributed, and the noise from the floor will be more strongly transmitted to the wall. The second point is the use facing brick for height compensation in ceilings with a thickness of 160 mm, it is better to replace it with solid bricks.

There is one very important point for ceilings, which must be taken into account at the design stage, the maximum and nominal length of the ceiling, which was calculated by one building institute that was instructed to calculate bearing capacity ceramic block poroterm and prepare technical and structural solutions for the arrangement of certain components of the building structure. Calculations have shown that the span length of the ceiling is limited and nominally 6 meters, maximum 7 meters.