Technology of laying foam concrete blocks. Guide for self-laying foam concrete blocks. In addition to foam blocks, you will need

The correct construction of foam concrete walls and partitions comes down to the fulfillment of a number of conditions: accuracy of calculations, selection of foam blocks of the desired density and the appropriate adhesive composition + compliance with the masonry technology.

The latter is of decisive importance.

The speed and quality of building a house depends on how correctly the first row of foam blocks is laid.

Where to start laying foam blocks - two recommendations

provide good waterproofing foundation. Despite the fact that foam concrete has a low moisture absorption rate, waterproofing will maintain the integrity of the material longer;

keep the line horizontal. We will describe this part of the work step by step in the form of instructions for beginners without construction experience, because. it is the first row that sets the tone for the main construction.

The specifics of laying the first and then subsequent rows of foam blocks depends on the purpose and function of the wall. From this position, there are:

load-bearing walls (internal or external, in one or multi-storey buildings);
non-bearing walls (interroom partitions).

1. Masonry of the outer wall of the foam block

Foundation preparation

The foam block is laid on a flat surface, leveling with glue is allowed, but only if the height difference is not more than 30 mm. If there are horizontal violations, it is recommended to level the foundation by applying a layer of sand-cement mixture, and then isolate it.

Foam block preparation

Laying begins with the preparation of blocks. Since the foam block is no different high precision geometric dimensions, it is recommended to bring them into working condition. For this you need:

eliminate irregularities that may affect the quality of the masonry;
remove burrs. To do this, you can use a grater or drywall planer;
eliminate chips.

If too large voids have formed on the surface of the foam block or large chips are present, it is better to leave such a block for trimming.

Masonry of the first row of foam blocks

Laying the first blocks is done in the corners. From what angle to start laying also matters. The first foam block is installed at the corner that is the highest in relation to the rest. The mortar layer under this block will be much thinner than under the foam blocks in other corners. With a flat foundation, the choice is arbitrary.

Corner or as the masters call "lighthouse" foam blocks serve as a guide for further work. Therefore, their installation is a time-consuming and responsible stage.

Note. When installing the corner block, make sure that it protrudes 30-50 mm above the plinth. Such an indentation will prevent the accumulation of water at the ebb of the basement, and it will remain dry. This means that the masonry on which the bottom row is based will not be subject to destruction.

Correction of the installed foam block is carried out with a rubber mallet.

A mooring cord is installed on the lighthouse blocks. The cord can be fixed to the block with a nail. It should be said that hardware does not hold well in foam concrete, but in this case, the nail will do its job. If the distance between the corner blocks is more than 6 meters, it is recommended to install intermediate beacons. This will prevent sagging of the guide rope. Masters recommend installing beacons at the intersection of external and internal bearing walls.

It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.

Foam concrete blocks of the first row are laid only on a cement-sand mortar. The solution can be applied in two ways: apply to the previous row of blocks and install a dry block on the adhesive, or apply glue to the surface of the block. The second option is rarely used, but indispensable when a part of the block is inserted into a narrow gap in the masonry.

The solution is applied using a notched trowel or carriage. A trowel can also be used, but it does not allow you to maintain a given thickness of the mixture, which leads to its overrun or the appearance of places without a mixture.

Why is it necessary to use a cement-sand mixture for the first row? In order to level the difference in heights due to a denser overlay layer.

The masonry mortar must be applied not only on the horizontal surface of the row, but also on the side walls of the block. The vertical seam is also filled with mortar. Ignoring this recommendation is fraught with the appearance of voids in the masonry, which will allow moisture to accumulate in the seam gap and, in frost, will lead to the destruction of the seam or block.

The recommended thickness of the horizontal seam when laying the foam block on the mortar should not exceed 10-15 mm. (depending on the type of block), vertical seam - 8-10 mm. Naturally, you can lay out the first row using a special adhesive mixture. In this case, the thickness of the joints will be determined by the recommendation of the mixture manufacturer. But from the point of view of the economy of building a house, such a solution would be inappropriate.

Note. If the block is wetted, the adhesion of its surface with the adhesive mixture will increase. This recommendation is especially relevant for work performed in warm time of the year.

Sometimes craftsmen save time and mortar and do not fill the vertical seam with glue. In this case, you need to carefully seal the seams from the front and back (inner) sides, leaving the middle empty. If it is planned to plaster the house from foam concrete, vertical seams can not be filled at all.

If necessary, the foam block is cut to right size. In this case, the block is less than 50 mm thick. looks ugly, you can eliminate this gap by varying the thickness of the masonry joint. The installed foam block can be adjusted within a certain time (determined by the type of adhesive mixture). Adjustment occurs using a rubber mallet. Further elimination of irregularities is possible only by using a planer or drywall grater.

Note. The first row of blocks is necessarily reinforced.

Masonry of the second row of foam blocks

The second and subsequent rows of blocks are also laid, starting from the corners with periodic measurement of deviations. In this case, the mooring cord moves one block higher and sets the exact direction of the masonry. For these rows, it is desirable to use an adhesive mixture for foam concrete. Due to the fact that the adhesive is consumed less, a certain cost and time savings are achieved. The block of the second row is placed on the block of the first row as tightly as possible so that the solution is squeezed out, which is removed with a trowel.

It should be noted that it is impossible to put the foam block on the block with the intersection of the seams at an angle of 90 °. This weakens the clutch. To perform dressing, you need to move the foam block at a distance of at least 25% of its width. Ideally, the dressing is done on half of the block.

Foam block masonry dressing systems

In practice, a foam concrete house can be laid out in one or two rows. For example, a foam block with a size of 200x300x600 mm is too narrow for load-bearing walls, and a wider one is heavy and inconvenient to work with. This automatically leads to the fact that the laying of foam blocks is carried out in two rows with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. It is she who holds the blocks together and ensures the strength of the entire masonry.

Options for double dressing of foam blocks are shown in the diagram

When bonding, periodically lays out a number of foam blocks, which are placed perpendicular to the main masonry. If the block size exceeds the width of the wall, it is trimmed.

With flat ligation, the rows are laid parallel to each other and interconnected using a flexible connection.

Sometimes, simultaneously with the laying of the wall, it is also finished with bricks, then it is desirable to reinforce both materials using a metal mesh. Or make a bonded dressing with a brick.

Foam block corners

The corners also need dressing. The corner laying of the foam block is carried out in the manner shown in the figure, where 1 - foam concrete block, 2 - seam. The main requirement is that the masonry seam should fall exactly in the middle of the block. Offset is acceptable, but this affects the quality of the construction of the house.

2. Laying the inner (bearing) wall of the foam block

We note right away that we are talking about an internal load-bearing wall that fits on the foundation, and not about a partition. To join two foam concrete walls together, you can use several tricks:

dressing to the full depth of the foam block. In this case, the block is, as it were, wedged into the masonry outer wall fully;

ligation on part of the block. Usually the block "sits down" in the place prepared for it. The depth of wedging the block into the masonry of the outer wall is 150-200 mm. depending on block width;

butt ligation, i.e. dressing is not performed, and the foam block is installed close to the block that forms the outer wall.

Masters unanimously agree that the first option is the most preferable. When using the other two options, additional reinforcement should be performed (with the introduction of reinforcement into the masonry of the outer wall) every 3-4 rows.

3. Laying partitions from foam blocks - technology

The construction of partitions from the foam block is possible, both at the construction stage and in an already functioning house. In the first case, the foundation will play the role of the foundation, in the second case, the floor (concrete or wooden).

Dimensions of foam blocks for partitions

For the construction of partitions, foam blocks of the D300-500 brand, 100 and 200 mm thick, can be used. The choice of the thickness of the foam concrete block directly depends on the purpose of the partition. If it is designed to separate the heated and unheated area, a thicker (wider) block should be selected.

Technology of installation of foam concrete partitions

the surface of the floor and walls is cleaned of debris and primed;

markings are made on the floor, wall and ceiling. For this, a rope is used or an even strip is drawn with chalk (marker). Moreover, first you need to correctly mark the ceiling, and only then, using a plumb line, transfer the markers to the floor. So the wall will be perfectly flat;

Advice. For marking, it is convenient to use a coated (coloring) cord.

the floor surface is covered with roofing felt, it will play the role of a sound insulator for partitions or a special rolled sound insulator (sometimes this stage is skipped);

pieces of reinforcement are mounted on the floor surface. Their purpose is to support the first row of blocks;

a cement-sand mortar or adhesive mixture is applied to a part of the floor and wall (in accordance with the dimensions of the foam block);

the first block is installed close to the wall. Its setting is checked by the level;

the installation of the first block of the second row also has its own specifics, it lies in the fact that the foam block needs to be “tied” to the wall. To do this, you can punch holes in the wall and insert reinforcement between the wall and a number of blocks. Reinforcement length 200-250 mm. It is wound into the wall for half its length. And you can use flexible reinforcement using, for example, an EC-bracket for attaching a profile for drywall;

the second row of blocks must be installed with a mixture of at least 25% of the block width;

reinforcement of partitions from foam blocks is carried out in without fail: three lower rows of masonry, as well as every second (with a foam block thickness of 100 mm) or every third (if the thickness exceeds 100 mm);

if you plan to make two partitions at an angle to each other, it is better to think about reinforcement in a timely manner. To do this, you can build at the same time or leave in the first row part of the reinforcement bar for laying the second row;

insofar as interior wall is not a carrier, then a thermal gap of 10-15 mm is provided between the ceiling and the last row of foam blocks. Its purpose is to level the possible shrinkage of the house. The gap is closed mounting foam. Foam is applied to both sides of the wall.

Note. With a gap not exceeding 50 mm, the craftsmen advise not to cut the block, because it is difficult to cut off 35-40 mm of foam concrete (despite the fact that it is perfectly cut), but to lay polystyrene foam or dense foam between the wall and ceiling

Do-it-yourself foam block laying - video

4. The device of openings in the house of foam concrete

Window or door openings, arches, columns, all these elements are typical for private construction. The use of foam concrete does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of such structures. Moreover, in a place where, according to the plan, there should be an opening, it is not necessary to initially make even masonry. It is quite possible to leave protrusions on half of the foam block, which are then easily cut off with a saw.

How to make a hole in the wall of foam blocks

The opening from above or around the entire perimeter is made using ordinary foam blocks. They are laid on a base, which can be used as:

metal corners. The width of the corner is determined by the width of the foam block, and should be at least 2/3, and preferably half of its width. For example, with a block width of 100 mm, you need to use a 40x40 corner. The corner starts in foam concrete wall at a distance equal to at least the length of one block;

bar reinforced concrete lintels. It should be noted that such a jumper is a continuous bridge of cold and needs additional insulation;

removable formwork for the foam block, in which reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured. The formwork is disassembled after the concrete has set. Supports must be installed under the formwork to support the weight of the structure. Supports are removed one month after completion of work. During this time, the foam concrete bulkhead will gain the necessary strength. In the future, the strength of concrete will increase, which makes it ideal material to form openings.

Formwork can be mounted for both straight and round openings.

Note. With an opening width of more than 1,200 mm, it is recommended to form an opening only using removable formwork. Thus, the possibility of its sagging under the load of the house is excluded.

U-shaped aerated concrete block. The tray block must be reinforced without fail. Installation of the U-block is allowed only if the house is subject to external decoration.

5. The device of floors in the house of foam blocks

After laying the last row of foam concrete, it's time to form a reinforcing belt. The device of the armored belt consists in the manufacture of a removable formwork, followed by reinforcement and pouring of concrete. The formwork is installed so that the width of the belt is equal to the width of the foam concrete wall, and the height reaches 200-300 mm (depending on what will be installed on the armored belt). The connected reinforcement is placed in the formwork and poured with concrete. The reinforcing belt, like a foundation, is made around the entire perimeter of the foam concrete house, including internal load-bearing walls.

Note. Filling the entire belt is performed at a time. Concrete is covered with a film to ensure uniform solidification.

Hollow reinforced concrete slabs, wooden floor beams or a Mauerlat, on which the rafter system is mounted, are installed on the armored belt.

sand-cement mixture or foam concrete adhesive is prepared in small portions. The fastening (adhesive) characteristics of the solutions correspond to the declared ones within 1.5-2.5 hours after manufacture (kneading);

installed block can be corrected within 5-15 minutes. (depending on the adhesive manufacturer). If you do the laying of foam blocks with your own hands, then it is better to use the solution, the adjustment time of which is longer. In practice, this means that the work will take longer, but the likelihood of spoiling the masonry is less. After all, the foam block, subject to the use of good glue, can be dismantled (knocked out) only with damage;

the right time for laying foam blocks is spring and autumn. Optimally, when the surface of the block has a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C, otherwise, you need to use masonry mortars with antifreeze additives;

to simplify the masonry, the foam blocks need to be moistened. Thus, dust is removed from the surface of the block, which increases the adhesion of cellular concrete;

glue is best applied with a notched trowel;

to align the block use rubber mallet, and after the glue has hardened, a planer or grater;

each row is checked by level and plumb;

when reinforcing the rows, the reinforcement is laid only on the glue, thus eliminating voids under the reinforcement.

Note. It is possible to proceed with further finishing of the foam concrete house with plaster a month after the erection of the walls. This is due to a significant shrinkage rate of the foam block cottage - up to 3 mm per 1 linear meter.

The cost of laying foam blocks per m3 and a piece

the price for laying foam block partitions starts from 230 rubles / sq.m. The cost is determined by the complexity of the masonry and the configuration of the wall, openings;

the laying of load-bearing (external or internal) walls made of foam concrete will cost the customer much more.

Examples of calculating the cost of masonry are shown in the table

Conclusion

As can be seen from the article, you can put a foam block with your own hands even for a beginner who does not have practical experience in construction. Due to the size of the foam block, the work will progress quite quickly. The main thing is to lay the foam blocks correctly, in compliance with the technology, this ensures that the house will last without overhaul long time.

Aerated concrete, foam blocks - all these names refer to the same material.

The use of porous concrete blocks for construction in Russia began in the Soviet era, but only recently they have become widespread.

The question of what to put foam blocks on is far from idle.

You can use both specialized formulations and mixtures for other purposes. There are also materials that are better not to use for this.

When choosing what to put foam blocks on during the construction of a cottage, the solution is chosen more often than other materials.

However, when building partitions, it is used infrequently.

The fact is that after laying on the solution, it must grab, so you can put no more than two or three rows per work shift.

When the total volume of masonry is large, and no more than two or three rows are erected per day, then this is acceptable.

However, when you have to lay a small partition, this will stretch the process of its construction for a week.

Advantages and disadvantages of cement:

You can use the usual masonry mesh for bricks with a mesh of 50 mm.
When using a regular mesh, there is no need to gouge blocks for laying bars.
The solution can be kneaded without a special mixer, using a conventional shovel.
The total volume of the solution is significantly larger than the volume of adhesive for blocks and other compounds.
It is necessary to wait until the previous rows grab before starting new ones.
The solution can be used for laying ordinary jumpers, sealing gaps.
It is convenient to use a solution to connect to uneven wall.
You can use blocks without grooves on the ends. They are usually the cheapest.
Any laying of blocks, one way or another, begins with the first row, which is always laid on the mortar.
The solution is convenient to use in cases where the amount of work is small and you do not want to buy additional glue and drag the mixer for kneading.
The solution, even with antifreeze additives, cannot be used for laying aerated concrete at low temperatures.

Adhesive for aerated concrete

When there is a choice of what to put the foam blocks on, glue or mortar, then you should definitely choose glue. Glue has more pluses and fewer minuses:

Working with glue is much faster.
There is less dirt and waste left.
Can be erected a large number of rows at a time.
Laying on glue, as a rule, is more durable.
The glue shrinks less, creeps less - as a result, the quality of the masonry is higher, the deviation from the plane is less. Usually, after laying on the adhesive, the wall requires only minimum plaster, and after laying on the solution, full alignment is required.
When laying blocks with grooves at the ends on glue, it is allowed not to fill vertical seams - they are smeared on the outside and inside.
Laying on glue will require chasing blocks for laying reinforcing bars.
Reinforcement with rods is cheaper than masonry mesh.
It is quite difficult to connect to an uneven wall only with glue.
You still have to put the first row of blocks on .
You will need a special mixer with a nozzle for kneading glue
Glue is required several times less than the solution.

Other materials that can be used

When the question is being decided on what to put the foam blocks in the apartment with, you can not buy special glue separately, but use other materials that are used for other types of finishes.

All of them have the same pros and cons as laying on glue, but there are some features. As good materials can be recommended:

Gypsum putty "Fugenfüller"

Tile adhesive during operation is practically no different from special adhesive for blocks. The only difference is that it must be laid a little thicker than aerated concrete glue. Fugenfüller is a gypsum putty that is used to fill joints in plasterboard linings.

It also performs well when laying aerated concrete. A feature of the fugenfüller is that the “life” of the solution is only 5-10 minutes, and it is kneaded in small portions. Very convenient laying on the "fugue" with a small amount of work, sealing openings.

How to make a mortar for laying foam blocks yourself - on the video:

What tools and building materials should be prepared

From the materials we need:

Foam concrete blocks.
Screened sand.
Water.
Cement.
Ruberoid or some other waterproofing material.

Before you start laying, you need to stock up on some tools:

Container for preparing the solution.
Shovel for mixing the mixture.
Buckets for carrying the finished solution.
Construction level, as a rule.
Saw for cutting foam concrete. It is better to take an ordinary hacksaw for wood.
Trowel, trowel.
Cord.
Rubber mallet.
Metal or fiberglass mesh for reinforcing rows.
Grater, which will need to rub and level the masonry.

Preparatory work

How to start laying foam concrete? From the right preparatory work. Then the walls will be laid out as quickly and reliably as possible. At this stage it is necessary:

Below we will consider how to prepare a mortar with your own hands, and how to lay foam blocks for the construction of main walls and additional partitions.

How to prepare masonry mortar

You can buy a ready-made solution for work, but it is better to prepare it yourself, because it is not difficult at all. In this case, you will be sure of the correct proportions of the mixture. The solution is mixed in the following sequence:

One part of high-quality cement and 3 parts of sand are poured into the prepared container.
The mixture is thoroughly mixed.
Water is added to the container, and the solution is brought to the desired density.
In the process of mixing, plasticizers can be added to the container.

Ready-made supplements are on sale, but you can use simple means. For example, add PVA glue to the container or slaked lime. The composition with plasticizers will retain water better, and after solidification it will be less saturated with moisture.

Tip: it is recommended to add dry lime powder to the solution, as it mixes easily with the rest of the components, and the cost of lime is low compared to other fillers. Calculating the amount of lime is very easy. For 4 parts of cement, you need to take 1 part of lime.

Proper laying of foam blocks

Consider how to properly lay the foam blocks on cement mortar so that the masonry has a minimum of cold bridges. It is also necessary to lay the foam blocks with your own hands so that the walls do not subsequently become covered with cracks and do not collapse.

It is necessary to lay foam blocks in the following sequence:

Tip: it is necessary to make the mortar more liquid than for ordinary brick laying. Since foam blocks have a porous structure, they significantly absorb water. It's hard to cook liquid mixture, but also wet the surface of the blocks with water.

Tip: in the process of masonry work, you need to control that each seam is completely filled. It is necessary to fill the seams forcibly, on both sides of the masonry.

Attention! The mesh is laid only if the foam concrete walls are laid out on cement mortar. If, as building mix glue is used, then the reinforcement is made of reinforcement, laying it in the grooves cut from the top of the row. Reinforcement metal fittings when laying on cement is also allowed.

When the walls are laid out on required height, on top of the last row of blocks, you need to pour a reinforcing belt of concrete. It will distribute the load from the floor slabs evenly on all walls. If there is no concrete belt, the overlap will press on individual blocks more strongly than on others. The result of this pressure will be the gradual destruction of fragile foam blocks. Thickness concrete belt should be 10-20 cm.

The walls are aligned inside and out.
Quality control of work is carried out. Attention must be paid to ensure that each seam is filled with cement composition.

We figured out how to lay foam blocks correctly on a cement-sand mortar. Experienced Builders can confirm that with their own hands such work can be done even by an unprepared person, subject to a certain laying technology.

Foam concrete blocks in recent times are gaining more and more popularity. Their use in construction is quite wide - from the construction of walls and partitions in multi-storey monolithic-frame houses, private buildings to the construction of garages, warehouses, shops and cafes.

Shelves and partitions in apartments are made of foam concrete. The popularity of this building material associated with his unique properties, which include:

high thermal insulation properties, excellent sound insulation;
relatively small weight;
ease of installation;
the ability to saw, cut, shape;
dimensions reducing construction time and mortar consumption;
a variety of sizes and shapes for various purposes;
perfect Smooth surface, which does not require additional alignment;
reliability and durability;
affordable price;
safety: foam blocks almost do not collapse over time, do not rot, do not burn, do not emit toxic substances, do not have a detrimental effect on human health.

Construction of foam concrete allows you to save money, since another advantage of this material is its relative cheapness. The disadvantages of foam concrete include its hygroscopicity, instability to a point load.

How to calculate the cost of laying foam blocks?

Before calculations, you need to decide which brand of foam blocks you plan to use. Foam blocks are different thickness and density, different sizes.

It is necessary to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bfuture walls, taking into account the door and window openings, select the foam blocks of the desired size and calculate their number.

For internal walls and partitions, thinner foam blocks are usually used, we consider required amount subtracting the area of the doorways from the area of the wall.

Next, you should decide on what the foam blocks will be laid on - on cement or on special glue. Cement, at first glance - more cheap option, but its consumption is several times higher than that of glue. The glue allows you to make the seams between the blocks very thin, minimizing cold bridges.

When building from foam concrete, every third or fourth row must be reinforced. We calculate the number of rows of foam concrete and, based on this, the amount of reinforcement or reinforced mesh that we need.

If you plan to involve specialists for laying foam concrete, consider the cost of paying their labor. Careful calculation will allow you to avoid buying an extra amount of foam blocks and save on delivery.

Technology of laying foam blocks

The first row of blocks is laid on a cement-sand mortar, which should be applied with a layer of at least 3 cm on the waterproofing of the foundation. First of all, corner blocks are installed, the mooring cord is stretched and fixed, and the first row is laid out along it.

The quality is checked by the level and, if necessary, the position of the blocks is corrected with a rubber mallet. It is recommended to start laying the next row no earlier than after 3 hours. Laying can be carried out both on cement mortar and on special glue. The thickness of the future seam should not exceed 3-5 mm.

Hollow foam blocks are used to vyklydyvay window openings U shape, in which you need to put the associated reinforcement and pour concrete. Each 3-4 row must be reinforced with reinforcement or reinforcing mesh. The reinforcement is laid in special grooves cut in the blocks using a wall chaser or a grinder. Before installing the floor slabs, it is necessary to make a concrete armored belt 20 cm high. wooden floors or wooden roof, the armored belt can not be done, but limited to special platforms for beams.

What you need to know if you decide to build yourself?

Cement mortar must be prepared in small portions. When using a special adhesive for foam blocks, please note that it must be used within 15 minutes after application.
The optimum temperature for laying foam blocks is + 5- + 25 degrees. With more high temperature foam blocks should be moistened periodically.
It is more convenient to apply glue or cement with a special trowel or a toothed comb - this will make the seams thinner and even. Glue is applied to the horizontal and side surface of the foam block.
The foam block installed on glue or cement is carefully pressed. Then set the level on it and align it vertically and horizontally, tapping with a rubber mallet. Excess mortar is removed with a conventional construction spatula.
After laying every third row, you should check the deviation from the vertical with a level or plumb line, and the corners with a level.
Do not forget about the reinforcement of each 3-4 rows. The reinforcement is laid in the grooves on the mortar, the mortar is applied on top and the next row of blocks is laid.
Before laying each next row, the surface of the foam blocks of the previous row is carefully cleaned from possible irregularities with a construction float, the dust should be brushed off or removed with a vacuum cleaner.
If the foam block does not fit entirely, it can be sawn with a regular hacksaw or a special hacksaw for foam concrete, and the cut should be cleaned of dust.
The laying of foam blocks is carried out with dressing. Each next row must be shifted relative to the previous one by at least 10 cm, and ideally by half the length of the block.

Errors when laying foam blocks

Poor laying of the first row. Mistakes made when laying foam blocks in the first row can add a lot of problems when laying the next ones and lead to the fact that the walls of the future building will deviate from the vertical.
Laying foam blocks during rain or high humidity at temperatures below 10 degrees below zero.
Careless application of the solution, poor-quality filling of the seams. When laying foam blocks, they partially absorb water from the solution, thus ensuring a strong adhesion of the blocks. Deficiencies in the application of glue and cement mortar can affect the strength of the masonry and the thermal insulation properties of the walls.
Neglect of dedusting blocks. Dust interferes with the quality connection of the blocks, subsequently cracks may appear in these places.
Neglect of reinforcement leads to a general weakening of the structure. When the soil shrinks, cracks may appear on the walls. It should be remembered that door and window openings must be reinforced necessarily!
Laying floor slabs directly on the foam blocks creates a point load, which can exceed the tensile strength of the foam blocks and lead to their destruction.

Partition masonry

For laying partitions indoors, foam blocks with a thickness of 50 to 150 mm are used. The masonry is carried out in the same way as the masonry of the outer walls. On the floor, walls and ceiling, with the help of a coloring thread, we apply the lines of the future partition. This process must be approached with all seriousness, since even a slight deviation from the vertical can affect the strength and stability of the entire wall. You can make guides, pull a rope, or make a frame from aluminum profile for drywall.

Adjacent surfaces must be cleaned, carefully removed dust, treated with a primer.

Apply a layer of mortar to the marking line on the floor and lay out the first row. Check the quality of the masonry with a level and correct with a rubber mallet. The next one is happy to start with half a block. To enhance the strength of the structure, it is possible to install anchors in the load-bearing walls of the house in advance or every third row internal partition fasten to a load-bearing wall with an anchor. Seal the gap between the last row and the ceiling with mounting foam around the entire perimeter of the masonry 48 hours after the erection of the partition.

Laying foam blocks is a simple and exciting activity, if you approach the matter, having carefully studied the issue. The masonry technology is simple and accessible for mastering even by non-specialists.

One of the advantages of foam blocks is that anyone can build a house from them. Laying foam blocks with your own hands is not difficult. The main thing is accuracy and adherence to technology. Selecting blocks and related materials High Quality, you can build a house that will last for many years.

You will need

For construction, you will first need foam blocks. They are supplied in pallets of 0.9, 1.44 or 1.8 m3. For load-bearing walls, it is necessary to use foam blocks no thinner than 200 mm, and they must be made of foam concrete with a density of at least 800 kg / m3. For partitions, you can take blocks with a thickness of 100 mm.

In addition to foam blocks, you will need:

mortar or adhesive for styling;
styling tool;
reinforcing mesh and reinforcement in bars.

Required tool:

Trowels. With their help, you can accurately apply the solution, providing its thickness of 1-3 mm. The width of the trowel corresponds to the width of the blocks, thanks to which the mortar is placed evenly over the entire surface of the block. Dosing carriage: used for fast application of adhesive solution with a thickness of 1-3 mm on horizontal rectilinear surfaces. The width of the dosing carriage corresponds to the thickness of the blocks. Cutter (Shtroborez). Tool for cutting grooves by hand (for example, for electrical wiring).
A hacksaw is used to cut blocks. Sanding board - serves to eliminate small irregularities in the laying of foam blocks. Planer - serves to level large irregularities in block masonry, as well as to change the shape of the block.
Corner - designed for even sawing of products made of cellular concrete. Spatula - used for grouting chips and seams of products made of cellular concrete. Mallet - a special rubber hammer for working with foam blocks. We strongly recommend using a rubber mallet for work.
Level - used to control horizontal and vertical planes. Construction cord - used as a guideline during the laying of walls and the installation of various structures. Coil 100 m. Level - to control compliance with the geometry of the masonry.

You may also need special nozzles on a drill for cutting holes and chasing blocks. Instead of a trowel, you can use a special carriage for uniform application of the solution.

Glue or mortar

Foam blocks can be laid on special glue or on cement mortar. Glue is easier to prepare - for this you just need to dilute ready mix water and mix thoroughly. cement mixture You can make your own by mixing cement with sand.

The advantage of laying blocks on a cement-sand mixture is that this mixture can cover up some minor defects on the surface of the blocks during the construction of walls. Otherwise, glue is more convenient. Adhesive seams can be made as thin as possible - up to 1 millimeter, while cement joint should be 2-4 mm thick. The consumption of mortar from cement is six times higher than that of glue, which means that in the end the cost of laying a foam block for glue is more profitable. You can put blocks on the glue even in frost (up to -10 ° C), you just need to purchase a special frost-resistant glue for this.

Foreman's advice:
When laying the blocks, do not forget to periodically mix the glue or cement-sand mixture so that it remains homogeneous.

Block stacking

The laying of walls from foam blocks can be carried out at temperatures from 0 to + 40 ° C. At higher temperatures, the foam blocks must be moistened with water. At the same time, it is not recommended to work in the rain. In winter, it is also better to refrain from laying foam blocks or do it strictly in dry weather. For the winter, the blocks must be protected from exposure precipitation, therefore, it is worth calculating the time in order to have time not only to build walls, but also a roof, as well as to complete exterior decoration.

Regardless of whether the blocks are placed on cement or adhesive, it is recommended to lay the first row on cement. must first be waterproofed - covered with a roll bituminous material. After that, it is necessary to level the surface for laying the first row with a cement-sand mixture.

The first row should be as level as possible with a level or level. The laying of foam blocks starts from the corners. A cord is stretched between the corner blocks, which will serve as a guide. Blocks are laid on a layer of mortar and tapped with a hammer. Be sure to lubricate with a solution side surfaces so that the seams are not only horizontal, but also vertical. The blocks are stacked so that the vertical seams of the first row are in the middle of the next.

Each installed block must be leveled, checking the accuracy of laying with a level vertically and horizontally. Irregularities arising during the laying process must be immediately rubbed with a grater, and dirt and dust should be swept away with a brush. Do not try to level the surface with an additional layer of mortar - this will worsen the thermal insulation properties foam concrete masonry.

Laying can be carried out in one or two rows. If the blocks are stacked in two rows, then the vertical seams of one row should be overlapped by the blocks of the second row to minimize heat loss. masonry interior partitions performed in one row.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is needed in order to increase the reliability of the foam concrete masonry. It is made every 3-4 rows of blocks into the cement mortar for masonry. It not only strengthens the masonry, but also prevents foam concrete from cracking.

For armored belts, U-blocks are used, in the cavities of which reinforcement is laid with a thickness of at least 10 mm and poured with concrete. Or fixed on the walls wooden formwork, inside which thin blocks or foam are installed for thermal insulation, after which the reinforcement is poured with concrete. The recommended height of the armored belt is 20 cm.

Before installing interfloor ceilings, it is necessary to strengthen the walls - this is a monolithic reinforced concrete row closed around the entire perimeter of the foam block box.

Finishing

After the box of foam blocks is built and brought under the roof, you can start finishing. The easiest option is plastering. Before finishing works all chips and cracks on the walls are filled with mortar, and irregularities are rubbed with a grater. After that, the first layer of plaster is applied to the wall, into which the reinforcing mesh is pressed, then the second layer is applied. After the plaster has dried, apply finishing coating. For outdoor work, it is better to use a mixture based on cement.

In addition to plastering, foam block masonry is protected from external influences by hinged ventilated facades. Metal rails are installed on the walls, on which panels are hung. It can be siding, block house, wall paneling, porcelain stoneware and other outdoor materials. You can also veneer a building made of foam blocks with bricks, but this is expensive and impractical.

After exterior finish you can move on to summing up communications and interior decoration home built by hand.