Guide to the external insulation of the facade of the house. How to choose a material for thermal insulation of walls outside for a brick, wooden and foam concrete house

For many years the motto of the Soviet construction industry was total economy. Such an erroneous economic policy made it possible to minimize the capital costs of construction, which made it possible to quickly and easily build buildings for residential, public and industrial purposes. Permissible temperature and humidity conditions for human residence or work were achieved due to the high operating costs for heating, the price of which was regulated by the planned economy. Times have changed, the planned economy of the USSR has gone down in history, but the thin walls remain. Prices for all types of energy carriers are steadily rising, and the centralized heating system has ceased to justify itself. Wall insulation is one of the main solutions to ensure comfortable living conditions, minimizing the cost of additional heating.

External wall insulation

Exterior walls should be properly insulated from the outside by adding to the wall a layer of effective insulation made of foam or similar material, characterized by high heat resistance, sufficient strength and low water absorption.

Why it is necessary to insulate from the outside, the following figures clearly demonstrate:

Fig.1 - "classic" thin wall; L1 - thickness of the main wall, 1 - light concrete material with porous fillers; 3 - outer and 5-inner decorative layer, they are usually neglected in thermal engineering calculations; 6 - temperature graph inside the wall, where T (Vn) and T (Nar) - internal and external air temperatures. 7 - graph of the "dew point" temperature. Analyzing the diagram, one can note the closeness of graphs 6 and 7, there is very little left to create the conditions for the occurrence of condensate.

Fig. 2 - the same wall, but the situation has changed: the outside temperature has dropped, the heating power is not enough. Temperature graphs 6 and 7 - “dew points” intersected, a condensation zone formed - L (k), the wall inside became wet, condensate can penetrate deeper, worsening the characteristics of the wall. Prolonged exposure to moisture on the material of the outer wall leads to the appearance of fungus and efflorescence. Interior putty can peel and crack just like paint.

Now the outer wall has been insulated by placing a layer of effective insulation on the outside.

Fig.3 Symbols:

1. Outer wall.
2. Effective insulation, for example, expanded polystyrene.
3. The outer decorative layer is made of special putty, which is reinforced with glass mesh and painted with paint for facade work. Reliably protect expanded polystyrene from weather influences, increase the fire resistance of the structure.
4. The adhesive solution provides mechanical fastening of the insulation layer and its tight fit to the wall, if the area of ​​the insulated surface is more than 8 m², special dowels are additionally used.
5. Inner decorative layer.
6. temperature chart.
7. Dew point chart.

The temperature graph - 6 and the dew point graph -7 are far from each other, which means that the occurrence of a condensation zone does not threaten such a layered structure.

If the heating is central, then the room will become warmer, if it is individual, you can save a little by screwing the boiler thermostat.

Materials and technology of insulation of external walls.

Most often, foam is used for insulation, or more precisely, polystyrene foam, made by extrusion. Such a material is characterized by very low thermal conductivity, sufficient strength with low weight, practically does not absorb moisture, as it has closed pores. The chemical industry produces a sufficient range of such expanded polystyrene in the form of plates of various thicknesses (from 2 to 10 cm), density and strength.

Expanded polystyrene boards by TechnoNIKOL, Carbon series. The edge of the sheet is made with a special “L-shaped” groove, which eliminates the formation of “cold bridges” at the seams.

Rigid polystyrene boards from URSA, with a special groove, allow you to insulate walls, floors, attics and basements in one layer.

Ordinary foam boards are not recommended for wall insulation, but due to their low cost (3-5 times cheaper than extruded polystyrene foam), they are still used very often, which in turn negatively affects the quality and durability of insulation.

The general scheme of insulation of external walls with expanded polystyrene:

The outer wall can be brick, foam or expanded clay concrete panel.

The technology of conducting work when insulating walls with polystyrene foam:

1. The surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and peeling fragments of paint or plaster.
2. Recesses and irregularities are filled with facade plaster solutions.
3. The prepared surface is primed, depending on the condition, with primers that strengthen and increase adhesion.
4. Plates are installed on the prepared surface with the help of an adhesive composition. The adhesive composition can be applied both on the plate and on the wall.

Adhesive compositions of the company "Caparol".

Dry mixes from Ceresit, for gluing ST83 expanded polystyrene, for gluing and reinforcing ST85.

Schemes for applying the adhesive solution: 1 - continuous, 2 - stripes, 3 - beacons. The adhesive solution is applied so that 1-2 cm is left to the edge of the plate, and the composition does not get into the seams.

Plates are glued, similarly with brickwork with dressing:

1. Mechanically, polystyrene foam plates are fixed using plastic dowels with a wide plate cap, at the rate of at least four pieces per plate, the installation of which should be done a day after gluing to the mortar. Such dowels are suitable for fixing all types and brands of polystyrene foam boards, regardless of the manufacturer.

Dowel-sets with a metal rod are characterized by high strength, and with a plastic (reinforced polycarbonate) rod - thermal performance, excluding the appearance of a "cold bridge".

When installing an insulating layer from ordinary polystyrene foam or from polystyrene foam boards that do not have a groove, dowels are often installed in seams or at joints, but this may not be entirely true.

Large firms, manufacturers of building chemicals and mixtures, for example, the German Ceresit, have developed their own wall insulation technologies. They produce a range of building chemicals and mixtures designed to fully satisfy the need for materials at all stages of insulation.

It should be noted that insulation with extruded polystyrene foam reduces the overall vapor permeability - the walls "do not breathe" and, therefore, measures and engineering solutions are needed to ensure sufficient ventilation of the premises.

Insulation of external walls from the inside.

Consider the case of insulation of the outer wall when the insulation is located on the inside.

Fig.4 Symbols are similar to Fig.3. The graphs of temperature-6 and "dew point" -7 intersected, forming a vast zone of condensate occurrence - L (k), both in the wall itself and in the insulation.

Despite the fact that theory and practice have proven the fallacy of insulating external walls from the inside, such attempts continue. Why is insulation from the inside so attractive:

• Work can be carried out at any time of the year, even in winter or in the rain.
• Simplicity of work: no ladders, scaffolds, cars with lifts or climbing equipment are needed, which means that you do not need to hire specialists.

It is rational to insulate the first and second floors from inventory scaffolding.

For builders who have mastered climbing equipment, the floor does not matter.

A false wall made of drywall with mineral wool insulation is cheaper than external insulation both in terms of material and cost of work.

Negative moments of insulation of external walls from the inside:

• Condensation may appear on the wall and, as a result, fungus, efflorescence and rust spots.
• The condensation zone moves into the volume of the insulation, and mineral wool in such humid conditions loses its properties and can collapse.
• The device of an impenetrable vapor barrier will greatly complicate the "breathing" of the walls, which is not permissible in the absence of ventilation (systems of ventilation ducts and vents).
• Insulation inside reduces the useful area of ​​​​the premises.

In theory, it is possible to insulate the outer walls from the inside. As a heater, you should use extruded foam or ordinary foam with a density of at least 50 kg per cubic meter, which is not only durable, but also waterproof, as it has closed pores. It should be glued to the wall with a special glue for cement-based polystyrene foam. The cement stone of such glue, as well as extruded polystyrene foam, is not affected by moisture. The foam-2 layer (see Fig. 4) will act as a vapor barrier. Thus, there will be no problem with condensation. Moreover, in winter, due to heating, air humidity is less than normal (to ensure normal humidity, household and climate equipment stores sell special humidifiers and dehumidifiers that reduce humidity). In practice, it will be very difficult to perform a sufficiently high-quality installation of foam sheets with the organization of the same ideal joints. In addition, foam is a combustible material, so in the event of a fire it will release toxic combustion products, which can cause death.

It should be added that due to the massive use of plastic windows and entrance doors with rubber seals, ventilation must be made the rule, otherwise it will be very difficult to achieve normal room humidity.

Options with a vapor barrier between the insulation and a drywall sheet with a decorative finish, as well as with ventilation of the internal mineral wool insulation using air gaps and ventilation holes, are quite expensive. When insulating the outer wall from the inside, it is logical to insulate part of the floor and ceiling adjacent to it, leading vapor barriers to these areas. Craftsmen can add insulation and foam molds to such a “layer cake”, where a 1-3 cm layer of foamed polymer material is reinforced with aluminum foil. If such calculations turned out to be erroneous, then black mold and traces of efflorescence, red spots will appear on the walls (see Figures 5 and 6).

Wall insulation from the inside is considered incorrect, but it cannot be completely ruled out. Regardless of the opinion and evidence of the majority, each landlord makes his own decision.

The only case when the installation of insulation from the inside is fully justified is the insulation of basements, because there is soil outside.

Insulation of external walls will reduce operating costs with individual heating or make the rooms warmer with central heating. It should be insulated only from the outside, and it is recommended to use extruded or high-density polystyrene foam as a heater. Rigid mineral wool boards are used in ventilated facade systems, which are rarely suitable for thermal insulation of residential buildings, and this is more suitable for public buildings.

For a comfortable stay in your home in winter, many perform its external insulation. In addition, it improves the thermal insulation of the room in the summer, prevents overheating of the walls. What is better to use insulation for the walls of the house outside, their features will tell the article.

Before making the insulation of external walls, it is worth getting acquainted with its characteristics and main advantages.

Insulation of the walls of a private house from the outside allows:

• Save usable indoor space.
• Protect your home from freezing.
• To increase the overall operational resource of the building, without additional load on its structure and on the foundation.
• Improve frost protection. This is due to the fact that the insulation of the outer wall of the house allows you to shift the point of condensation towards the heat-insulating layer. There is no risk of mold and mildew formation.
• Do not cool the walls insulated from the outside, and for a long time keep the heat inside the building, without losing it.
• Insulators for the exterior walls of the house from the outside quickly lose moisture, without changing their basic characteristics.
• Provide high sound insulation of the room.

Before you insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you need to pay attention to such characteristics of the material as:

• Steam and moisture permeability.
• The degree of absorption of air and moisture.
• Thermal conductivity.
• Resistant to temperature changes.
• biological stability.
• Resistance to chemicals.
• Temperature retention coefficient.
• No shrinkage and aesthetics.
• Light weight.
• Ease of installation with your own hands, so that there are no butt seams.

Some characteristics of the most popular materials for thermal insulation of walls from the outside are presented in the table:

Tip: In any case, the external thermal insulation of the walls of the house should create a rational warm structure. In this case, all external factors should be taken into account: rain, snow, a strong temperature drop, which the insulation must withstand.

Types of materials

When choosing insulation for the wall of the house, first of all, the material of the building should be taken into account.

The most popular types of heaters and their characteristics are presented in the table:

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer

Of great importance for the quality insulation of the building is the correct heat calculation of the outer wall of a residential building.

This should take into account:

• Insulation thickness. Too small can cause freezing of the walls, transfer the “dew point” inside the room. This will lead to an excess of moisture in the house, the formation of condensation on the walls. With an increase in the thickness of the heat-insulating layer more than necessary, it will not bring significant improvements, but will only add additional financial costs.

Tip: Only a correctly calculated thickness of thermal insulation for the house will save money and keep the house in a normal thermal regime.

• Thermal resistance of the material for insulation - R. This is a coefficient representing: the temperature difference along the edges of the insulation / by the amount of heat flow going through it. This value reflects the properties of the insulation and is determined by: material density / thermal conductivity.

With an increase in R, the thermal insulation properties of the material improve. Calculation formula: R = wall thickness in meters / coefficient inherent in the thermal insulation of a particular material.

• Meaning R can be selected for different climatic zones according to the relevant tables.

For example, the calculation of the insulation of the house with polystyrene foam 100 millimeters thick, with walls made of silicate bricks, the thickness of which is 51 centimeters, was chosen.

For this:

• The coefficients of heat resistance R for the wall and foam are calculated.
• The two obtained values ​​are added.
• Wall thickness 0.51 meters / for the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the wall material 0.87 W / (m ° C) \u003d 0.58 (m 2 ° C) / W.
• It turned out the heat transfer resistance of the brickwork wall R = 0.58 (m 2 ° C) / W.
• The R value is calculated for foam plastic 0.1 meters thick.
• It is divided by the coefficient of thermal conductivity corresponding to the foam, equal to 0.043 W / (m ° C).
• The result was R = 0.1 / 0.043 = 2.32 (m 2 ° C) / W.
• The obtained coefficients R for silicate brick and foam plastic are added up: R \u003d 0.58 + 2.32 \u003d 2.9 (m 2 ° C) / W.
• The value is compared with the required values ​​of the coefficient for external walls in different climatic zones.

Analyzing the result, we can conclude that it is necessary to insulate the building with a heater with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters.

External wall insulation

After choosing the material, before insulating the outer wall of the house, you need to prepare the surfaces for further work.

For this:

• If necessary, the remaining layer of plaster is removed to the very base. The result is a flat surface.
• If there are significant level differences on the wall, recesses or protrusions of more than one centimeter, they are sealed with mortar or combed.
• The surface is cleaned from dirt and dust.
• The wall is primed. The primer is best used with deep penetration.
• To obtain an even layer of insulation, a system of beacons and plumb lines is pre-mounted. These elements determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, facilitating installation.
• On the anchors or screws installed along the upper edge of the wall, threads of great strength are tied and lowered with a plumb line to the bottom.
• Tied with horizontal threads.
• According to the obtained control grid, you can navigate when installing a heat insulator or frame.
• Further technology for insulating the outer walls of the house for each material is somewhat different.

In order for all processes to be performed correctly, it is better to first get acquainted with the video in this article.

Foam insulation

The work instructions are as follows:

• After surface preparation, window sills are installed outside and slopes are insulated.
• The ebbs are attached to the window itself or to an additional profile.
• The window sill is taken out taking into account the insulation of the wall - one centimeter is added to the thickness of the insulation. In this case, the window sill will protrude 4 centimeters beyond the finished wall.

• The starting profile is mounted from below, which will give reliability of fixing the insulation from below.
• The mixture is applied to the wall.

Tip: Do not apply the solution to the foam. Otherwise, when gluing parts to the wall, voids may form between the even plane of the foam and the uneven wall.

• The solution is distributed along the perimeter of the sheet in a discontinuous strip. This strip, when the foam sheets and the wall come into contact, will diverge under the edges of adjacent sheets, which will increase the strength of the joints.
• A sheet is glued to the mixture, carefully exposed and pressed with force.

Tip: Laying foam on the wall should be done in a checkerboard pattern.

• Three days after gluing the sheets, they are nailed to the wall with special fungi or caps with a plastic sleeve.

• After attaching the fungus, a plastic or metal nail is hammered into its sleeve.
• About 5 fungi should be placed on the sheet, stepping back from the corner of the wall about 10 centimeters.
• The joints between the foam sheets are carefully examined for gaps. If they are more than 5 millimeters, they should be filled with foam.
• Strips of insulation are additionally inserted into gaps over 1.5 centimeters and blown with foam.

• After 5 hours, the protruding parts are cut off with a knife.
• The joints are corrected with a foam grater.
• All butt joints and fungal caps are puttied with an adhesive mixture.
• Mesh is glued to the corners and walls.

• The mixture is rubbed with sandpaper.
• The facade is primed.
• The facade walls are being finished.

Warming with mineral wool

Before you insulate the wall of the house outside with mineral wool, you need to properly prepare the walls.

For this:

• Wooden structures are impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent damage to the log house by microorganisms.
• Damaged sections of the walls with rot, fungus or mold are carefully cleaned and impregnated with appropriate solutions.
• Walls made of brick and foam concrete are freed from peeling paint and plaster.

• Wet walls are thoroughly dried.
• Slopes and platbands of windows are dismantled.
• All decorative and fasteners that can harm the vapor barrier and insulation are removed from the walls.

• A layer of a vapor-permeable membrane is laid under the insulation. In this case, the film is located with a vapor-permeable side to the wall of the house, and smooth - to the insulation. The role of the membrane is to ensure the removal of water vapor from the surfaces of the walls of the building through the insulation.

• Fastened with self-tapping screws or dowels guide wooden slats, or a metal profile for fixing drywall. The step between the rails is taken 2 centimeters less than the width of the insulation elements used, and the thickness of the rails is equal to the thickness of the insulation.
• Reiki are fixed from the corner of the house.

Tip: When using insulation in the form of mats, you should additionally fix a horizontal rail at the bottom of the wall to install the lower insulation mat.

• Mats or rolls of mineral wool are laid between the guide rails: the mats are laid from below, and the rolls are laid from above, fixing the materials on the wall between the rails by surprise, or using dowels with a wide head.
• To brick or block surfaces, the plate material is attached without a gap to a special glue, for a snug fit of the insulation.
• First, whole pieces of insulation are laid, then the remaining areas around the door and window openings are filled.

• Another layer of film is laid for wind protection and waterproofing.
• The material must be vapor-permeable, for unhindered removal of moisture from the insulation to the outside.
• The film is attached to the rails with staples without tension.
• The entire layer of insulation and vapor barrier is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels with a wide cap.
• For better waterproofing, the attachment points are glued with metallized tape.

• An important stage of wall insulation is the installation of a ventilated facade. In this case, the ventilation gap should be more than 5 centimeters. To do this, additional counter rails are stuffed onto the guides, and a ventilated facade is mounted on them. It can be: siding, block house or other materials.

• With external wall insulation, their thickness increases, which will require the installation of new window slopes, window sills, platbands and trim elements.

External insulation of building walls with mineral wool is one of the most popular methods used for thermal insulation of buildings.

These are just some of the recommendations on how to properly insulate the walls outside the house, from the most used types of material. When performing work, you need to be guided by your desires and capabilities, and most importantly, strictly follow the rules for installing a particular insulation.

Surely the residents of apartment buildings are a little jealous of those who live outside the city in a private building. Own living space, garden, clean air - everyone's dream. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the harsh Russian winters force you to carefully insulate your home to avoid freezing. This implies impressive investments and constant monitoring of the state of the heat-insulating material, from which residents of city houses are exempted.

Warming your home is preferable to using a dozen heaters - you can save money and make your home more comfortable. It is known that there are two ways of thermal insulation of a private building - from the outside and from the inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but it is primarily worth taking care of external insulation. About what material is best suited for certain houses - further.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The consumer is not in danger of a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so you can choose a decent heater in any hardware store. However, before buying, it is necessary to analyze the material in question for its physical and chemical properties. These include:

• thermal conductivity coefficient (characterizes the ability of the insulation to conduct or retain air; the lower the indicator, the better - you do not have to use a thick layer of material);
• moisture absorption coefficient (indicates the ability of the material to absorb water as a percentage by weight; the higher the indicator, the less durable the insulation);
• density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will make the house heavier);
• resistance to fire (there are 4 classes of flammability; the first one (G1) is most preferable, which stops burning without an open source of fire);
• environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members, it is worth choosing only natural material from natural components that do not emit impurities into the atmosphere and do not contain synthetic elements);
• durability (the service life of the insulation set by the manufacturer);
• hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb vapor from the air);
• resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
• soundproofing properties;
• ease of installation (insulation should be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools; also, a minimum amount of additional work should be done with it, such as cutting into even pieces).

It is difficult to choose a material that would have all the desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation outside and inside.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

The question of insulating a private house from the outside arises in two cases - at the design stage of a building or when buying a finished one, but at the same time not having decent thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the benefits of insulating a home from the outside? These include:

• reduced wall deformability due to additional protection;
• the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the service life of the building will be extended;
• freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the building is erected;
• the area of ​​​​the interior remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any kind of decoration, and living conditions will remain the same.

Ways of external insulation of the house

The need and benefits of thermal insulation from the outside are obvious; now the consumer should familiarize himself with the methods of insulation. There are three of these:

• "well" arrangement of the material;
• "wet" insulation with gluing;
• ventilated facade.

In the first case, the insulation is placed inside the walls (for example, between layers of bricks). It turns out that it is "locked" between two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to implement it for an already built house.

In the second case, the insulation layer is fixed to the glue on the outside of the walls, then additionally attached to the dowels. Several types of coatings are applied on top - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). A good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; Do-it-yourself wet wall insulation is impossible without experience.

The ventilated facade resembles a “well” masonry, only the outer layer is the facing material - drywall, tiles, siding, etc. Additionally, you will have to build a frame system for attaching heat insulator sheets.

The last method is the most popular, common and profitable. It will cost much less than "wet" insulation; in addition, even a beginner will be able to do the work with their own hands. Now the consumer faces the most difficult choice.

Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (of natural origin) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).

Types and advantages of inorganic heaters

The first place in the list rightfully belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It is of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Differing from each other only externally, varieties of mineral wool have the following qualities:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.03 - 0.045);
• density variations (from 20 to 200 kg/m3);
• excellent soundproofing properties;
• vapor permeability (mineral wool can "breathe");
• fire resistance.

It is not without a number of disadvantages, including:

• attraction for rodents and insectoids;
• deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when only 3-5% of the volume is wet;
• never completely dries out.

In general, mineral wool is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it for cladding a house from the outside.

The second known external insulation is foam. Its advantages:

• the heat conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0.03 - 0.037);
• costs less than other heaters;
• easy;
• density from 11 to 40 kg/m3.

• fragility;
• release of toxic substances during fire;
• does not “breathe”, which forces residents to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
• when directly wet, it absorbs moisture, becoming unusable.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior in thermal conductivity to mineral wool and polystyrene. In addition, he:

• does not absorb moisture;
• convenient for installation, because it is produced in plates;
• stronger than foam
• almost does not pass air.

Flaws:

• flammable;
• when burned, it releases harmful substances.

There is another type of raw material used for external thermal insulation of the walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of balls (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). They “breathe”, isolate the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid of sunlight, and are easy to repair. Not very common on the market, however, experienced consumers have already appreciated this insulation.

Varieties and benefits of organic materials

For those who want to feel as close to nature as possible, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:

• cork heaters - have a thermal insulation coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06; are crushed tree bark, compressed under the influence of hot steam and resin as a binding element; easy to cut, "breathe", do not form mold, non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
• cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are crushed cellulose, treated with flame retardants to improve fire-fighting properties; properties resemble cork materials, but absorb liquid better; do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall cladding;
• hemp - supplied in plates, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; does not hold the load well, although it is quite dense (20-60 kg / m3);
• straw - an old way of thermal insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; today it is practically not used;
• algae - an exotic method of sheathing exterior walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not arouse interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and fungus. Best suited for light walls.

Preferred insulation for home cladding

Each material has pros and cons. Based on the information presented above, it is possible to compile a symbolic rating of the highest quality materials for the walls of the house (the first is the most preferred, etc.). It is also worth considering the type of facade design.

For ventilated systems, cotton wool is better suited - mineral, cellulose. When laying wells, give preference to a material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is extruded polystyrene foam. Plaster wall decoration goes well with insulation, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, PPS, polystyrene, any organic material.

For light walls of a wooden house, breathable material is better suited - mineral wool, hemp, ecowool, cork insulation. The former is preferable, but costs a little more.

A country house should be of high quality sheathed with reliable material. The consumer can choose any of the previously discussed, guided by their wishes or financial capabilities. A competent approach to the acquisition of insulation is the key to a long service life of a cozy home.

Many are faced with such a problem, heat is not stored in a heated room, the reason for this may be the dissipation of thermal energy through the walls. How to deal with it? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate a house? What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? For this, the house is insulated. The most correct solution would be to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.

He will be able to create protection for warm indoor air from the outside cold and will effectively maintain the necessary microclimate of the room. Also, the advantages of insulating external walls include their protection from water vapor and light radiation, which will significantly extend their service life.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate a stone house, brick or wooden? High-quality thermal insulation is the key to comfort and coziness of a private or country house.

How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to carry out good thermal insulation and do it in the best way?

In total, there are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:

• The insulation is fixed directly to the wall using special glue or other devices. Then it is covered with a construction mesh and plastered for finishing materials.
• In this case, the heat insulator is also mounted on the wall of the room, but then an additional brick wall is installed on the foundation. A small air space or gap is left between the insulation and the wall. With this method, the heat insulator is not plastered.
• This option of insulation consists of several phased works. First of all, the walls of the house are covered with a special waterproofing film, then the material selected as insulation is mounted, after which it is necessary to install protection against water vapor and wind. And only after that, with the help of a special frame made of wooden beams or metal guides, materials for the external cladding of the room are installed, such as various siding, lining, ceramic tiles and much more. The use of this variant, the so-called ventilated facade, can be carried out at any time of the year, since there is no need to use any mortar.

The considered options represent a general direction, in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as a heater. The modern market for thermal insulation materials is quite wide and some of them may require a different installation method.

Also, the choice of a heat insulator, its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, consider the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.

Installation of heaters

What to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case, it will be able to keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Heaters that are presented on the construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, basalt slab and cellulose insulation.

The use of one or another insulating material is associated with climatic conditions, the method of installation work and the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The calculation takes into account the width of the bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the insulator, the internal temperature of the room. Then you can start installing the heater. How to prepare a wall for the installation of insulation?

Consider the instruction:

• First of all, it is necessary to clean the wall from old plaster and other materials up to the material from which it is made.
• After that, it is necessary to level the wall surfaces, close up cracks and pits and chop off protrusions, clean dust and dirt, and carefully apply a primer, not missing a single centimeter of the area.

A primer should be used that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one or another type depending on the material from which the primed surface is made.

• Installation of insulation should be done in an even layer without surface distortion, depressions and protrusions, using the tools provided for this: beacons, plumb lines, levels, corners and others. Otherwise, you may encounter problems with further plastering of the wall or installation of facing material, that is, applying different thicknesses of plaster material and installing additional guides. What does the beacon system look like? Screws are screwed on the upper edge of the surface, several pieces depending on the length of the wall, on which a dense thread is hung with a metal plumb line at the bottom.
• After that, horizontal threads are installed that connect all the vertical ones. Thus, a network is formed that will determine the level during the installation of a heater or frame system. After carrying out such preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of a heat insulator.

Can be made with different materials. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? How do materials differ from each other?

Use of Styrofoam

Use of expanded polystyrene as a heater. How to insulate a house from the outside with polystyrene foam? You need to properly insulate according to the instructions.

Installation instructions for this thermal insulation product:

• At the beginning, it is necessary to install a corner along the lower edge of the wall, observing the desired level - the first layer of heat insulator will be aligned along it. It is installed using special glue, glue for ceramic tiles is also suitable.
• The sheets are pressed tightly against the wall and leveled with plumb lines and a level. The second layer of material is applied after the final drying of the first, so as not to knock it off the level.

It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in a brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the bottom row hold the top ones.

• From the second row, expanded polystyrene is attached using special anchors, "umbrellas", as they are called differently. They are driven into each of the four corners and into the center of the sheet.
• Vertical and horizontal seams are glued with construction tape with reinforcing properties. In window openings and at the corners of the walls of the insulation, it is additionally fastened with corners made of metal.
• After the wall is completely covered with insulation, a building mesh is mounted on it, then plaster can be applied.

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of brick and concrete. This installation of insulation has its negative sides. So, for example, this material has a low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which the condensate that will accumulate in the wall can eventually lead to it getting wet.

To avoid this, before installation work on the installation of insulation, the walls must be dried with high quality. It is also important to keep them dry during operation. If all this cannot be achieved, then in this case it is better to use the method of installing insulation, which provides for its ventilation.

Remember that in the end there should not be a place where there will be access to polystyrene foam, otherwise small rodents can damage it, and it will also be affected by the environment, which will lead to damage and loss of properties.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the house can be carried out using polystyrene foam.

The use of mineral wool

Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool is another popular insulation. How to insulate a private house with mineral wool? The installation of this insulation is similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made using basalt or cellulose slabs.

Installation instructions for mineral wool:

• In the beginning, wall preparation is always required. We will clean the walls of old plaster and try to level the surface.
• Then you should proceed with the installation of the frame. It is made of wooden beams, by creating a vertical and horizontal crate. At the same time, the width and length of the empty space should be less than the insulation sheet by about thirty millimeters - these are the necessary conditions for the mineral wool sheet to enter it easily and not form a large gap.
• As a fastening of mineral wool sheets, anchor bolts are mounted, on which the material is hung. Since most often the walls remain uneven, it is better to use mineral wool, consisting of two layers. At the same time, a softer layer is installed directly on the wall, thanks to its structure, the most excellent connection of sheets with a heat-insulated surface occurs.

On some versions of mineral wool, plaster can be applied after installing the construction mesh or a special vapor-permeable insulating film can be installed. Then it is necessary to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which the facing material is installed. Suitable lining, various siding, tiles and facing bricks.

This type of home insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climatic zones. It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows this product to breathe and not get damp.

Use of polyurethane foam

How to properly insulate a house with polyurethane foam? When mounting this insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the same frame structure as when insulating with mineral wool with the installation of wind protection. At the same time, polyurethane foam is foamed onto the wall in a place free from the frame under the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to this, an excellent result is achieved in preserving heat inside the premises.

But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when mounted on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, so it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or roof slopes at a slight angle. Insulating walls with polyurethane is not difficult. It is necessary to insulate the house (booth) using additional products.

The use of basalt slabs

The insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. During the installation of this thermal insulation product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.

Laying this protective film is carried out on the bars, which have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the formed joints. Sealing is carried out using a specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a coating of purlins is made thanks to the beams. This is done in order to provide ventilation.

Before starting the insulation of external walls with this material, it is necessary to make a coating of purlins - this is different from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of a building. Leave a gap for ventilation. Attachment of basalt slabs is carried out thanks to self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes finishing the surface with siding or some other coating.

To insulate walls from the outside with basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Warming of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.

Cellulose use

How to insulate walls with cellulose? Cellulose can be mounted using three methods: mechanical, dry, wet.

The first method of mounting involves the use of dedicated hardware. Do-it-yourself wall insulation mechanically from the outside is quite expensive. The mechanical method has a high performance. This method allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, it is not necessary to apply a vapor barrier layer.

The dry mounting method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How are walls insulated from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls manually without the use of special equipment. First, the pulp must be fluffed, this is done with a drill.

Then it must be poured out of the container to the surface. Next is its tamping. If, nevertheless, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from the frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to pour in a heat-insulating product and tamp it. So other parts of the walls are also insulated.

Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of vertical structures. First, the cellulose must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will seize without problems.

All methods of insulation can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be the insulation of a country house.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? There are various materials for insulating walls outside. Each thermal insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is to be cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use the material for warming the house outside, which has high technical characteristics.

We hope that the description of each of them will help you make the right choice. Wall insulation from the outside is an important element in achieving overall comfort. You can insulate the house from the outside with your own hands without anyone's help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in the house.

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our head:

• How to insulate walls?
• How to insulate walls?
• What is the best way to insulate, outside or inside?
• But will the house become warmer, and will I not throw money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, as well as talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.

How to properly insulate the walls of the house, outside or inside

Try to ask any builder how best to insulate the walls of the house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and to resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why the thermal insulation of the walls from the inside of the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the wall of the house, with insulation from the outside, from the inside and no insulation at all:

Speaking in ordinary human language, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensate.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point is a positive temperature, and to the right - negative.

When insulating from the inside:

1. The wall remains unprotected by domestic heat, since the heat barrier from the insulation will not let it into the wall. Thus, in winter, it will be largely subject to frost, constant moisture, and will not have time to dry out, since we blocked the way from the inside with a heater to the heat that protected the wall earlier.
2. In the place of the dew point, condensate collects (air water vapor is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
3. The constant formation of condensate, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various kinds of fungi and mold on the wall. Do not console yourself with the fact that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing terrible will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall adversely affect not only the appearance, but also the health of the residents of such a house.
4. If you look at the diagram, it shows that even without insulation, there will be less moisture on the wall from the inside than with insulation from the inside.

When insulating from the outside:

1. From the side of the street, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the technology of insulation, and from moisture, and from the side of the room - with domestic heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and even in cases of various kinds of condensate and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
2. We take the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also take the condensate away from the room.
3. Insulation from the outside will greatly preserve the warmth and comfort in your home.

I think now it has become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to warm the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to warming from the outside. And it is necessary to insulate the walls from the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about the insulation of walls with polystyrene foam in one of my previous articles. Here I will mention some of the main points.

Preparing the wall for the installation of insulation

The first thing to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the walls of the house from the outside of dirt, dust and, which is not unimportant, trim them. After that, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.

If there are significant holes on the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the expanded polystyrene plate and the wall. And this is highly undesirable, because even a light blow or push on the insulation in the place where the hole is, can deform or break it.
If a small tubercle comes across during the insulation process, it will be difficult for you to glue the expanded polystyrene sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of expanded polystyrene and EPS on the wall

Styrofoam, as a rule, is glued to the wall with a special glue for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special "fungi".

In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the adhesive will be applied rough. There are no such problems with foam plastic, the glue sticks it well without additional processing, and XPS has a smoother surface, so it needs to be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously to both glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After installing the insulation, as a rule, the walls are plastered from the outside, or lined with facing bricks.

Styrofoam insulation with wooden slats

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam boards - using a frame made of rails or other suitable material.

Rails are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, and even better, that it be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or brick the walls, but sheathe them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for fixing facing materials.

How to properly insulate walls from the outside with mineral wool

Another popular insulation for the walls of the house are mineral wool insulation.

Wall insulation with mineral wool differs from wall insulation with polystyrene foam boards, primarily because of the characteristics of the heaters themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation, therefore, the installation of mineral wool is carried out, as a rule, by the frame method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then the builders also do not disdain mounting on glue.

A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall with dowel-nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then with self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can fix the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.

Since wool insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the effect of warming.

It is also desirable to build a more or less reliable protection against various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing the walls from the outside with brick, the insulation is laid between the main wall and the cladding, while these two walls are connected with special bundles that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.

Wall insulation from the outside with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern type of insulation, but also one of the most expensive. The advantages of wall insulation with polyurethane foam are many:

• after application, it expands, filling all the depressions, cracks, etc.
• at a certain density, the vapor permeability is very low, which excludes additional vapor barrier
• has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
• after hardening has good mechanical strength
• good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, any coin has two sides, so here, too, there are enough shortcomings:

• polyurethane foam with low density, has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
• low fire resistance
• expensive material
• spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically excludes do-it-yourself warming
• aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of heat-insulating properties

It is better to entrust the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protective equipment, since dangerous toxic substances are released during the spraying process.