They raised 10 rows - this is 2.5 meters.
We reached the lintels and the reinforced concrete belt of the 1st floor, also called the seismic belt. Its function in
- uniform distribution of the load from the overlap along the entire perimeter bearing walls,
- vertical and horizontal bonding of all walls into a single monolithic structure,
- in preventing the "spreading" of walls under the action of bursting moments
We lay reinforcing belts - in two bars of reinforcement d10 each - lower (pictured) and upper:
and pour concrete
it is desirable to connect the upper reinforcing belt with the lower one into a single spatial frame, as here:
but we had to lay it in the process of pouring, sinking it into concrete by 2-5 cm. They didn’t have time to fix it in the formwork in advance - they had already brought concrete and it was starting to get dark ...
But before pouring the armored belt crowning the first floor, we filled in the lintels above the doors and small windows. The photo shows two boxes: the lower one for filling the lintel above the door and the upper one for the armored belt, which will go one row above the lintel:
filled jumper:
the same jumper, only in profile:
As planned, the armored belt was supposed to simultaneously become a jumper over all big windows. The cross section looks like this:
those. in fact, we make a continuous jumper around the entire perimeter of the wall, which passes over all the windows and acts as an armored belt. Above window openings we have a hanging box made of 100 mm thick blocks fastened with masonry glue.:
The bottom is also made from a block cut into strips of 100 mm:
This is done so that the wall does not freeze through the top of the window opening, where there would be bare concrete.
In this design of the armo-belt, the problem of freezing is still not solved, because. 10 cm of a block from the street + 20 cm of cold concrete + another 10 cm of a block from the inside will not provide the necessary degree of thermal insulation. Unfortunately, I haven't figured out how to avoid this. There are special U-shaped blocks, but I didn’t have them, factory warm jumpers either, and I didn’t risk putting insulation between concrete and block for fear that such a design would not provide the necessary degree of strength due to the fact that the concrete would not adhere to the block on the side. In general, I did this and decided that when finishing the facade, around the entire perimeter of the armored belt, it would be possible to put a decorative warm border made of polystyrene foam or other heat-insulating material.
Either out of laziness, or for some other reason, at first the workers did not put supports under the formwork in the window openings, but when they began to lay out the formwork of the armored belt, they got a deflection, so they had to disassemble everything, put the supports and lay out the formwork again:
I ordered concrete for the armored belt at the factory, grade 200, on gravel. Pre-calculated the need, it turned out 3 cubes, it turned out I was not mistaken - exactly 3 cubes were gone.
Concrete was brought at 4 pm, dumped into a box made of blocks and polyethylene prepared on the ground:
It turned out to be such a nice bunch:
Raised to the 2nd floor with buckets and poured:
The filling was completed in complete darkness by headlights:
The next day I came to look, it turned out like this:
We put in internal partitions from a block 20 cm wide, the armored belt was not poured over them.
Now it remains to lay the floor beams and the 1st floor is basically finished.
The problem is the following. The foundation is in the form of a square 8-ki, respectively, and the armored belt is the same. A couple of days I noticed a crack in the upper armored belt that holds the roof. I began to understand, I found another crack lower in the armored belt between floors. And then I found another crack in opposite side. Cracks are hairy. Biggest extension at the top. All cracks are respectively less than a millimeter. The blocks are also cracked. The width is less than a millimeter. It feels like the house is falling apart. I didn't find any cracks in the foundation.
Input data foundation 8 by 10 monolithic reinforced. The truth was flooded for several times.
The first 70 cm concrete 300, up 40 cm 200. Reinforced with 12 iron reinforcement horizontal 10 vertical (ladder every 20 cm). Freezing depth 70 cm. House 1.5 floors. Walls expanded clay concrete block 300 mm thick. 2 armored belts 200 concrete reinforced with 4 lines of reinforcement 12 squares. the first armored belt between the floors, the second holds the roof. The belts are inseparable. The walls are reinforced with iron masonry mesh according to the principle of reinforcing houses from gas silicate every second row. Inside is filled with floating concrete slab on loose sand. Loam soil. A footing was made 20 cm into the ground. The sand did not fall. The tape was poured into cellophane, which is still there. The foundation was slightly spread by 5 cm in several places. The foundation wintered for 1 year, there were no noticeable cracks. Previously, a road passed right in the middle of the house at this place, so the soil was denser than about the edges. Although while I was digging there was a feeling that I kind of dug down to a homogeneous soil. Therefore, I made a footing so that the soil was denser everywhere. The footing was not reinforced. There is no blind area. Last year, I insulated the foundation and the area around the house by 60 cm to the side of 5 cm with extruded polystyrene foam + a plastic membrane also by 60 cm. Water drainage from the roof was made a couple of meters from the house. The house stands on a plot with a slight decrease. The roof height of the house is 7 meters. The side pediments were made of gas silicate, approximately 2 tons each in weight.
So the question is what to do? Going to move now in thought. It feels like it first cracked at the bottom in the first year of construction, and then moved to the top. Because I did not notice cracks in the armored belts. And now it's completely gone. I noticed cracks in the blocks in the first row and window sills after the first wintering. But since I didn’t find any cracks in the foundation and armored belts, I wrote it off as shrinkage. The lower cracks in the first row of blocks have not visually expanded over 3 years. While 2 thoughts in the reasons 1) the foundation sank along the edges former road and it bent either in an arc or the foundation has already cracked but is not visible visually. 2) the solution sank under the first row of blocks, as I noticed that the western wall got very wet in winter from the rains and the solution of the first row of blocks was picked with a fingernail (Uzbeks regretted the campaign for cement). So far, from the suggestions of what to do, I think 1) remove the side gables 2) make a concrete pavement and drainage.
01-07-2015: Alexei
Dear Doctor Scrap, I need your advice
the thickness of the walls of aerated concrete is 300 mm on the armo-belt performs the function of a lintel of the window opening 2.2 width 1.5 height, hollow reinforced concrete slabs rest on the armored belt, but not on these walls, but on the opposite ones where there are no openings at all. above this window opening goes attic floor those. 3-4 rows of blocks and again such an opening is a cat. is located in about the pediment already, i.e. the load from the slabs and from the roof goes to opposite walls! the question is how to reinforce an armored belt 200-250 mm wide and 250 mm high? 2 bars at the bottom and 2 bars at the top and ligation What is the diameter of the rebar? Is it possible to simply reinforce the armo-belt only above these openings, or is it necessary to reinforce the entire armo-belt with the same diameter? advise something. thank)
01-07-2015: Alexei
I forgot to add, the distance from the walls to the opening is 1.9 meters from both edges. house 6 by 9 window openings only from the side of 6 meters and the slabs and roof, respectively, lie on the side of 9 meters
02-07-2015: Dr. Lom
A similar topic was considered in sufficient detail in the article "The Question of Calculating Beams - Lintels - Armored Belts", although there the load on the lintel was decent. Your load is relatively small (for details on collecting loads, see the article "Calculation metal jumper for load-bearing walls"). But I would still reinforce the armored belt with additional reinforcement (2 rods from above and 2 from below), for example, using the same diameter as for the main reinforcement of the belt, well, or by calculation, details (embedding depth, diameter of the transverse reinforcement) see the articles "Calculation of a jumper in monolithic wall"and" Structural requirements for the reinforcement of beams and floor slabs.
31-08-2015: Alexander
Doctor, Hello, please tell me how best to do it!? There are walls of 30 cm gas silicate windows 1.5x1.5 over them we are puzzling over whether to put a ready-made bar of gas silicate factory jumper grade D 700, such data is given by the manufacturer, or exhibited removable formwork fill the jumper yourself or make U-shaped blocks and pour the jumper into them, but the thing is that immediately above the window jumper there will be an armo-belt 30 cm wide and 20 cm high, will the armo-belt press on the gas silicate factory jumper (as it looks squishy) or pour in one piece and a jumper and an armored belt? Please tell me what you think about this. THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!
01-09-2015: Dr. Lom
The answer to your question will depend on the design loads, as well as on the reinforcement and concrete class of the armored belt. If without calculation, and so, by eye, then it will be enough to make a jumper in U-shaped blocks, and then on top of the armored belt. Whether the factory jumper will withstand dynamic loads during the concreting of the armored belt, I do not know.
01-09-2015: Alexander
I beg your pardon, Doctor for an unreasoned question. Here is the data on my question. The foundation is tape in size 11x12.8 and bearing in the middle 12.8. Depth of occurrence 1.3 in the ground with reinforced concrete grade of concrete m 400 clamps between them reinforcement 8 with a step of 30 cm, the corners are reinforced according to the principle the left side goes to the right side and the right side to the left side also and according to the same principle, reinforcement 12 and 8 lie at the top of the foundation (it turns out two on top 2 in the middle and 2 at the bottom of the reinforcement with clamps across 30 cm from 8 fittings. then there is a plinth made of concrete blocks (demler) brand m 100 4 rows above the ground overall height 80 cm masonry in a row is tied according to the spoon poke principle, the width of the foundation is 40 cm. The walls are a gas silicate block D 500 30 cm wide. The central wall and partitions 20 cm are tied with steel bars in each row. Only the places under the window openings are reinforced. WINDOW openings 1.5 by 1.5. The question is still in the lintels and the armo-belt and the height from the window to the hemming. QUESTION ON THE LINKERS. OPTIONS AT THE TOP AND THEN ON THE OVER AFTER DRYING, IMMEDIATELY POUR ARMOPYAS. Will it displays the finished peerman and whether it is possible to pour a jumper with armoomas immediately? The Aropoyas perimeter is posted on the entire perimeter of the bearing walls, one on which the beams will also go to bed. Removable Opaalbook of boards inside fittings 16 3 top 2 At the bottom with Clamps 12 After 30 cm Armopoyas width 30 Height 20 cm A coal It is planned to be tied with a dressing for adjusting rods of reinforcing and tied with hairpins for which it will subsequently be mowed ON THE MAUERLAT OF THE BEAMS AND ON THE EDGES OF THE BEAMS THE RAFT. YOU ALWAYS HELP. I'M SORRY FOR ERRORS IN THE TEXT.
01-09-2015: Dr. Lom
Alexander, thanks for the details, but in this case, the design of the foundation is not of fundamental importance. It is much more important whether slabs or floor beams will rest on the wall above the armored belt and lintel. As such, my previous answer still stands.
You better ask the manufacturer what load the factory jumper can withstand, and then compare it with the load that you expect.
The reinforcement of the armored belt seems to me more than sufficient.
01-09-2015: Alexander
Thank you very much, please tell me how to calculate the load from the armored belt and beams. The beams will hit the wall above the armored belt and the lintel, but through the Mauerlat. This is the information provided by the manufacturer Size. Jumper length 1500mm, 1750mm, 2000mm, 2250mm. Width from 150 to 400mm. Height 249mm.
Weight from 44 to 180 kg, depending on the size of the jumper.
Density D700 kg/m3.
Strength. Concrete class for compressive strength B-3.5.
Frost resistance F-35.
The design load on the lintels is 15kN/m for bearing walls and 2kN/m for non-bearing walls.
Thanks a lot
01-09-2015: Dr. Lom
As far as I understand, the factory offers 2 types of jumpers: for self-supporting walls- design load up to 200 kg / m (2 kN / m) and for load-bearing walls (it seems that such a jumper is reinforced) - design load up to 1500 kg / m. In principle, in your case, jumpers with a design load of up to 1500 kg / m should be enough with a margin, especially considering that you are going to make an armored belt.
01-09-2015: Alexander
Doctor, thank you very much, yes it is reinforced. But the armored belt itself will not crush it with its weight, I mean figuratively crush it, will it not exert a significant load on the jumper?
01-09-2015: Dr. Lom
On the contrary, the armored belt will reduce the possible load on the jumper.
02-09-2015: Alexander
Doctor Thank you very much! And the very weight of the armored belt on the window opening will not statically put much pressure on the finished factory gas silicate jumper. And how can I thank you financially?
02-09-2015: Dr. Lom
In the process of concreting and then during operation, the armored belt will transfer part of the load to the lintel as a result of deflection. But that's why I advised you to put a factory jumper for load-bearing walls. It’s just that if you didn’t make an armored belt, then the load on the jumper could be much greater.
And if you want to help the project, there is a Yandex wallet number at the bottom of the site.
02-09-2015: Alexander
Thank you so much!!! Yes, I really want to help!
02-09-2015: Dr. Lom
If you have a Yandex wallet, then it will not take even 5 minutes. And if not, then you can make a transfer at any terminal in the nearest bank or supermarket.
09-09-2015: elnur
good afternoon. I want to fill in a seismic belt with a height of 25 cm and a width of 50 cm, concrete grade 300, a frame of 5 reinforcements with a diameter of 12 mm, the seismic belt will also be a jumper over the windows, the window opening is 180 cm. slabs measuring 3m by 1.2m. Thank you
09-09-2015: Dr. Lom
This will depend on the diameter and location of the reinforcement. In general, the additional load on your jumper belt is expected to be small, but it should still be checked by calculation. For an example, see the article "Calculation of a lintel in a monolithic wall".
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
Hello, we ordered video surveillance at home, workers came and made a hole in the place where the armored belt passes. Probably, the hole should have been made lower. Is it dangerous to inspect the perimeter for cracks?
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
I will clarify through hole under the cable of the video surveillance system from the street to the room.
09-12-2016: Dr. Lom
Even if the workers drilled through the concrete of the armored belt, then there is nothing to worry about. In the armored belt, only the filling is important in the form of reinforcement working in tension, and not concrete - packaging - working in compression.
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
Thank you, but don’t tell me more: the house is freezing through (the roof needs to be insulated) and condensation is falling over the windows, the plaster is falling off. That is, all the moisture on the armored belt, what will happen to it until the summer, the reinforcement will not start to rust?
09-12-2016: Dr. Lom
In general, the settling of condensate is quite logical on the bridges of cold, which is the armored belt, if there is no appropriate insulation. So in your case, it may be necessary to insulate the wall in the area of \u200b\u200bthe armored belt, and not the ceiling.
Of course, the process of corrosion of reinforcement in your case is not excluded, nevertheless, reinforcement in one season and even in several seasons will not completely collapse.
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
In general, if moisture is removed from the structure (plates, armo-belt), then the corrosion that has begun completely stops, or this process cannot be completely stopped and corrosion will continue, but simply at a lower rate, even in the absence of moisture?
09-12-2016: Dr. Lom
For oxidation (corrosion) of steel, free oxygen is needed, which comes from water by replacing ions. So formally, if you remove the moisture completely, the corrosion process will stop.
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
Doctor Lom, thank you very much for your work!
If you don't mind, I'll ask again. On the attic floor slab there is a crack almost transverse in the middle, from edge to edge, the crack is thin, its edges are tightly closed, when the slab was placed, it was already there. So, our roof rests on the attic slabs. I follow the crack, there were very snowy winters and the wind is constantly with us, last year a record amount of snow fell. But the crack is behaving "well", the edges are also tightly closed, the beacons are in place. Can I no longer keep track of her once all the loads go through? Do not follow and cover up with something (a plate without plaster at all.) I just read that such cracks are the most dangerous.
09-12-2016: Dr. Lom
Cracks in the lower tensile zone of the slab section (as I understand it, we are talking about a crack observed on the ceiling) are quite acceptable, since in the tensile zone all loads are taken by the reinforcement. Moreover, there is even a special calculation that allows you to determine the crack opening width, which is relevant for buildings with aggressive air environment all with the same goal of protecting reinforcement from corrosion.
Judging by the fact that the width of the crack opening does not change when the loads on the roof change, no load is transferred to the slab from the roof, and therefore you can putty and plaster. If the plate begins to deform and the crack opens, then the plaster or putty will crack, so you will see it.
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
Thank you, reassured)))) I already thought all my life I will look up
09-12-2016: Ekaterina
Tell me, is there an alkaline environment in the concrete of the armored belt, as in floor slabs? On the family council we decided that next summer we won’t be able to insulate the walls from the outside (due to finances) And it turns out that the armored belt will condense again for 3 years already (the degree of wetting, by the way, is different somewhere a little bit, somewhere stronger). The last armored belt, then the roof, maybe it will be normal in terms of load?
10-12-2016: Dr. Lom
I won’t tell you what kind of environment is in concrete, since I’m not a specialist in chemistry. And I have repeatedly said about the armo-belt that this is nothing more than insurance in case of a poorly made foundation or unevenly distributed loads, perhaps you will never need it in your life in its main quality.
10-12-2016: Ekaterina
Thank you again for your answers! We live in a small village, the nearest locality 1000 km, you won’t find specialists like you during the day with fire, but you can get confused on the Internet from information. I'm going to work as a nanny at my home, so I worry about every brick.
Everything is clear about the armored belt! I will plaster the slabs, but I have doubts about one of them. The plate its lower surface has areas with shells, sags, and holes, the plate is factory used, true. A visiting foreman came and said it looked like poorly vibrated areas, which is strange for a factory stove, did he offer to cover it up? Dr. Lom, do you think these poorly vibrated areas go through the entire thickness of the slab, or may well be within the protective layer?
10-12-2016: Dr. Lom
It's hard to say for sure without a visual inspection. But then again, if the plate does not crack, respectively, it does not significantly deform under the action of applied loads, then everything is in order. Those. possible defects due to insufficient compaction concrete mix, strongly on bearing capacity plates are not affected. I think it can be blurred.
10-12-2016: Ekaterina
Thank you again, you helped me a lot! A question in passing, if possible? The protective layer of concrete against reinforcement corrosion breaks off and corrosion becomes visible visually, but what can happen if protective layer all in shells and small holes, corrosion products will freely pass through these channels and visually nothing will be visible? (Well, that is, there will be no concrete chips) And if pitting corrosion is so generally imperceptible? Stove used 10 years under open sky I lay there, so I think maybe everything is rusted inside, but you can’t see it from the outside.
10-12-2016: Dr. Lom
This time I will answer briefly, if the reinforcement were completely rusted, then the slab would collapse under the action of loads. Even under not very favorable conditions, the process of reinforcement destruction continues for decades, it can be 50 or 100 or more years, depending on the conditions, so I think you still have a large margin of time. And yes. With your abundance of questions, it would not hurt to somehow help the project (the form at the bottom of the site). However, I do not insist.
19-04-2017: Michael
Good evening, I have such a situation, I’m building a house 12/12 two floors on the first floor, the ceiling is four meters, I have a window in the hall from floor to ceiling, a width of 5 meters, a height of 4 meters, and immediately outside the window there is an armored belt, which is also a jumper, and this span will lie three or even 4 floor slabs, what kind of reinforcement is needed for this span and in general what needs to be done
20-04-2017: Dr. Lom
Well, firstly, you need to calculate your jumper-armor belt. You can see an example of the calculation in the article "Calculation of a reinforced concrete beam".
