Shell rock is a natural material consisting of the shells of marine animals. The closest place for its extraction and production to Russia is the Crimea. It was in the southern regions that he gained his popularity most of all.
Shell rock is a natural material consisting of the shells of marine animals.
Shell rock is great for making walls of houses, barns, foundations of various buildings and many other buildings. Depending on the density of the material, its functionality is selected.
Marble and limestone are also natural materials, similar in composition to shell rock, but their density is much higher than the latter.
Shell rock is great for making walls of houses, barns, foundations of various buildings.
The shell rock has been formed for more than one hundred years under the influence of external conditions from shells of mollusks settling on the bottom. When it is mined, red-brown, yellow or Brown color rocks, which is easily deformed when cutting. Despite the porous structure of the shell rock, it is strong enough and suitable for the construction of even three-story buildings. Excellent sound insulation and thermal conductivity are the attractive qualities of this material in the construction process. A house or building built from shell rock will never have an excess amount of moisture inside. This is due to the fact that all its excess is removed through the porous walls of the shell rock.
The cost of a building built from this material is much lower than the cost of a brick one, which gives additional benefits owner. Moreover, in private houses attic floors they are built precisely from shell rock, since the attic should not be heavy.
The main properties of shell rock
In addition to the fact that the shell rock is environmentally pure material, it has a number of properties useful for construction. Low thermal conductivity allows you to keep warm and save on heating in the cold season. The release of substances such as iodine and salt from the material contribute to maintaining health and maintaining a favorable chemical composition in the air. The porous structure of the shell rock allows moisture not to linger inside the room, but to go outside, keeping it dry and comfortable atmosphere in the house. The low cost opens up the prospect of using this material not only in the process of laying the walls of houses, but also foundations. Since the shell rock is heterogeneous in its structure, it can be used in landscape design and decoration. decorative elements building. There are cases of using the latter in the process of building fireplaces with the associated use of refractory bricks.
From positive qualities one can also note the absolute chemical inertness of the material, due to which the walls and foundation of the house are absolutely not subject to decay and fire. In addition, the shell rock allows the room to maintain sound tightness, which is especially important in the case of close living of neighbors. This is the only material in the world that does not transmit radiation! Experts have calculated that the cost of a shell house is 35% cheaper than the cost of a brick house of the same size. In summer, such a room is quite cool, while in winter the heat does not leave the house. Latest trends construction projects are aimed at environmental friendliness, so the demand for shell rock is growing.
masonry material
In order to lay the shell rock with your own hands, you will need a certain set of tools. Mortar containers and trowels are the primary equipment for masonry. In addition, you need a building level, a rubber mallet and a plumb line. Experts are unanimous in their opinion that it is worth paying enough attention to the process of upholstery of corners. It will depend on him appearance and wall strength. starts with the fact that we need to put the first two bricks at an angle to each other. Then a couple more stones are laid and the second row is laid on top of those already laid.
If you are laying with your own hands for the first time, experts recommend using a goniometer or level in order to check the correctness of the angles. A special cord will help facilitate the process, which is pulled after the first corners have been laid. It will be a kind of guideline that will make the future wall smooth. In the case of laying shell rock, it is necessary to decide which side will be front and which side will be internal. More processed or polished can claim the role of facade.
After you have done the basic work of laying the shell rock with your own hands, you can begin the process of arranging the armored belt. It is made in order to avoid forced deformation of the walls and evenly distribute the load. Do-it-yourself formwork from improvised materials can help with this.
Solution preparation
Before starting the process, make sure that your hands are protected with special gloves. Do-it-yourself preparation of a mortar for laying shell rock involves the choice of consistency. It should not be too hard and not too plastic (liquid). Suitable solution of medium plasticity, prepared from the following ratio: a bucket of cement, a bucket of water, 4 buckets of sand. In order for the mortar to meet all laying requirements and not be too plastic or flake, it is recommended to use a special additive, for example, DOMOLIT-TR. The consumption of this additive per 1 m³ of solution is 0.5 kg. It's no secret that instead of the named agent, they add to the solution liquid soap or a cleaning agent, the consumption of which is 10 ml per 1 liter of water. It must be remembered that the quality of the solution directly depends on its consistency.
Before starting masonry with your own hands, make sure that the amount of work performed will correspond to the productivity of one person. If the masonry volumes are large, and the proposed one will require additional time and effort to mix it, it is worth using a concrete mixer and connecting an individual to this process who will control the solution and its presence. Laying according to the measuring level and along the thread stretched by you will allow you to maintain the evenness of the walls. The solution, the consumption of which can be calculated online on a specialized website, knowing such parameters as the brand of shell rock and cement, as well as the height and length of the walls, must be prepared in advance.
If laying shell rock is a new activity for you, you can entrust it to a professional. Many masons are able to carry out high-quality masonry in a short time.
Shell rock is a special material, its unique properties- regulate the microclimate in the house and saturate the air with sea salt and iodine due to its unconditionally natural origin and absolute naturalness. The share of human participation in the production of shell rock is limited only by cutting the stone into pieces of the required size. The only effect on the shell rock is hydrophobization.
Building a house from shell rock
The durability and reliability of the shell rock does not need to be confirmed. In the Crimea, in the North Caucasus, and even in the cities of foggy Albion, there are buildings made of shells - undestroyed! - stood for hundreds, and even a thousand years. Material from a natural conglomerate, calcareous shells of the shells of the most ancient mollusks that lived in the sea millions of years ago, is surprisingly resistant and atmospheric influences, and to frost, and to heat. Frost resistance dense varieties about 60 - 80 cycles, the thermal conductivity is low and the heat resistance is high. In terms of fire, the shell rock is safe and for some time serves as a barrier to fire. But we must remember that in the structural "pie" of the walls there will be more than one shell rock, so the insulation and Decoration Materials should be chosen accordingly.
For device bearing walls they use shell rock not lower than grade M25, outbuildings, fences, baths, garages, gazebos, etc. are built from stone of lower grades, the best shell rock with a density of M35 is several times higher than porous grades, and this price is justified. The decorativeness and beauty of the shell is most visible in small forms of landscaping, retaining walls, fountains and grottoes. landscape design with shell rock not only amazes with beauty and functionality, it carries a special mood and atmosphere, which cannot be given by any of the brightest and most prestigious building materials.
Shell wall blocks are used for both load-bearing and enclosing structures, and inside the house, cladding is made of sawn polished tiles treated with a water-repellent composition. For tiles, only durable shell rock M35 is used, the thickness of the tiles is usually 20 - 30 mm, the dimensions are non-standard - usually 170 * 350 mm.
Shell rock properties
One of the important properties of the shell rock is that with its own low level of radiation background (up to 12-13 microroentgen per hour), the shell has the ability to reflect radiation directed from the outside, that is, it serves as a radio barrier. Permissible level radiation is determined at 25 mcg / h, in our homes it fluctuates mainly from 12 to 18 mcg / h.
The porosity of the shell determines the properties of passing air and water vapor, this has a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house. The capillary-porous structure for building materials is considered a useful factor, and at the same time it requires protection measures - not only vapors and moisture can penetrate into too large pores, microorganisms that destroy limestone can also start there, so hydrophobization is indispensable.
Yes, a shell is an unusually attractive building material for people who value a good microclimate, coziness and comfort in the house. But we have to remember and soberly assess the realities of our life - there are cases when people are sold completely different blocks under the guise of shells. In addition, shell rock after cutting is stored in any way and delivered too. At the place of extraction, the price of a shell is low, but transport costs can be high. You need to remember about the human and "economic" factor and choose the material very carefully.
The appearance of the shell rock is so diverse that it is completely unrealistic to visually distinguish a stone by brand. Marks M35 and M25 may not differ in appearance, and only a laboratory test will bring clarity. The press will give exact numbers compressive strength. And at the place of purchase, you can apply a simple method - a blow. Throwing a shell block on a solid from a height, and assessing the destruction. It is very difficult to break a strong shell of the M35 brand, it is even impossible without the use of a tool. And the M15 brand is likely to fall to pieces. But exact values can only be obtained by ordering a test in a construction laboratory, and then already making decisions about the need for an armored belt, strengthening the masonry, and in general about the possibility of using blocks for load-bearing walls.
There is one more feature of the shell - a huge range of qualities depending on the place of extraction. As a mineral of sedimentary origin, shell rock depends on the geological layer and horizon in which it was formed, that is, on the deposit. In Crimea, the most durable shell rock mined at Inkerman. All variations of the chemical composition, colors and shades, porosity and moisture permeability depend on the place of extraction.
The main technical characteristics of the shell rock
Density is the main indicator; strength, weight, and durability directly depend on density. The range is from 750 to 2300 kg/m3, and depends on the place of extraction. The "weakest" shell rock is comparable in density to raw wood, and the most durable - to heavy concrete!
Blocks sawed standard sizes, although any are possible - under the order. Standard - 380 * 190 * 188, weight from 10 to 25 kg, depending on the brand.
The lightest block M15 has a compressive strength of 15 kgf / cm2 and is used for one-story houses, garages, bathhouses and any outbuildings, and small forms of improvement. M25 is quite suitable for load-bearing walls two-story house. Mark M35 - used even for basement parts of foundations and walls basements, with mandatory horizontal and vertical waterproofing.
Frost resistance of shell rock is not lower than that of red ceramic brick– an average of 50 freeze-thaw cycles. And cellular concrete, the shell, in terms of frost resistance, is ahead by 1.5-2 times.
If you do not protect the shell from water and moisture, it will absorb water - up to 15-17% by volume. External plastering or cladding is necessary, or during the rainy season, shell rock can contribute to the appearance of dampness in the house.
The temperature resistance of shell rock is low, slightly more than that of aerated concrete, and it is not suitable for lining chimneys.
Ecology is one of the main advantages natural stone. Being a sedimentary rock of bottom sediments, the shell does not contain harmful impurities, on the contrary, releases useful iodine and salts into the room. This plus can be minus by insulating the shell walls with polystyrene foam. Basically, mineral and stone wool are used as a heater.
The geometry of the shell blocks leaves much to be desired. The actual size usually differs from the declared one by 20-30 mm, if not more. many builders for this reason prefer blocks of cellular concrete, ceramic blocks and bricks. There are reasons - a lot of mortar really goes into the shell rock masonry, and the plaster uneven walls also a big waste.
The cost of the shell is low only in the quarry after sawing, and delivery in Russia is very expensive, especially in northern regions. A threefold rise in price may reduce interest in this unique building material, and this is understandable. It turns out more than twice as expensive as blocks of gas silicate concrete. In addition, the shell rock is fragile - especially M15 and M25, and transport cannot do without a fight. Damage and chips during unloading are also not uncommon. For shell rock, they usually go to the place of extraction and solve all issues there, at the same time you can be sure of the quality of the material.
The porosity of the shell rock varies greatly - from 25% to 70% (for low-quality). Shell walls provide excellent sound insulation and noise protection.
In terms of manufacturability, everything is excellent - you can saw, cut, drill and ditch, skip communications. The weight of the blocks is from 12 to 26 kg, no mechanisms are needed during operation.
Features of masonry from shells
There is, perhaps, only one difference from the technology of laying from lightweight concrete blocks - it is more difficult to build a stone wall with a spread in geometric dimensions, and the spread reaches 30 mm and more. In addition to overspending the mortar for joints, the thickness of which is required in 20-30 mm to align the rows, there is also the issue with the mortar itself. We need a solution with very good plasticity, but dense, so plasticizers are used in large doses. Laying is carried out as usual - from the corners along the beacon cord and with horizontal and vertical alignment. The thickness of the walls is taken in one or one and a half stones. Walls with a thickness of 580 mm do not need an additional layer of insulation, they are only plastered. For internal non-bearing partitions and walls of outbuildings, laying on the edge is sufficient - 180 mm thick.
Leave shell walls without exterior plaster it is impossible for autumn and winter; drainage from the roof also needs to be addressed without delay. Roof overhangs and visors are made large - 60 - 70 cm.
On the issue of armored belts, everything is decided individually and depends on many factors - the number of storeys of the house, the seismicity of the construction area, the properties of the soil and the brand of the shell, and of course, it is linked to the width of the masonry. The need for a basement armored belt is more of a question for the foundation, if there is a slab at the base, the lower armored belt is not needed. But under the ceiling and Mauerlat, the armored belt is often poured, since the shell is still a fragile material. The stone of the M35 brand can withstand both the weight of two floors and the reinforced concrete version of the floor. The M25 grade also withstands reinforced concrete hollow core slabs, but still builders often decide on the need for an armored belt. As an option, they arrange reinforcement by casting columns in the corners of the house and combining them with an armored belt. This option gives the house even more architectural expressiveness.
In we talked about modern construction realities in the Crimea. Namely: about local priorities in choosing wall material, its properties and qualities; about the technology of building a house, prices for wood, aerated concrete, limestone, shell rock and sand. We also considered the question of what is better to build stone house: from aerated concrete or outlandish for Moscow, but popular on the Crimean peninsula "shells". We continue the topic we started and, based on the experience of the portal member with the nickname huntdogs, consider a house made of shell rock and answer the following questions:
- Is it necessary to connect two different foundations.
- How to build a strip foundation with a height difference on the site.
- How much does it cost to build a foundation in Crimea.
- How to pour seismic columns in a house made of shell rock.
How to build a shell house on two different foundations
Although construction huntdogs- in full swing, and there is still a lot to be built, the shell rock house has already found its “face”.
We previously wrote that huntdogs reworked the original project, because changed his mind about building a one-and-a-half-story building with an attic and preferred classic version- full two-story house With gable roof. But due to lack of funds, it is planned to stretch the construction of the cottage over time, and then attach an additional one with a terrace and a veranda to the main “box”.
sample house
At this stage, huntdogs the question arose whether it was possible to make an extension on a separate foundation right next to the main house and whether it should be connected to the main tape one. The following responses from portal users followed.
BurivesNIK Member of FORUMHOUSE
I already have a negative experience of tying a secondary one to the main strip foundation - a slab foundation for a garage. Result: two seasons passed, and everything moved away. The foundations each live their own “life”, and now relatives regularly have to deal with plastering and foaming the vertical and horizontal cracks that have appeared. I think that in the case of huntdogs, it is best to make an extension on an independent foundation, but then the problem of waterproofing the junction appears, because. water can flow into the gap between the two foundations.
To get away from this, the user suggested pouring under the annex pile foundation with "heels" with a hanging grillage, having previously laid mortgages for the supporting columns of the veranda. Then, during the construction of the veranda, the terrace cover is dismantled, columns are placed, and the second floor is erected.
Eric Nord FORUMHOUSE Member
My godfather filled in two unconnected strip foundations, and then this amazing person mounted FBS blocks with dressing on them. Subsequently, cracks appeared on the plastered walls. Two unrelated foundations, each "lives" in its own way.
huntdogs FORUMHOUSE User
Judging by the experience of those who have already lined up, it is impossible to connect two different foundations - they will break. If you build, then 2 separate and independent from each other. I will think about how best to build the foundation for the extension. In my opinion, using piles with a grillage is a good idea.
In order not to guess how the foundation will behave in a few years, it must be calculated for a specific building. Mandatory - taking into account the data of the geology of the soil on the site, its bearing capacity and collecting loads from the future home.
The construction of a strip foundation with a height difference on the site
huntdogs under the house from the shell rock, I decided to fill in the classic strip foundation for the Crimea. Foundation dimensions:
- length - 10200 mm;
- width - 6900 mm.
To do this, they dug a trench (removing a layer of black soil to dense clay) with a depth of 1000 mm and a width of 450 mm.
A “pillow” of ASG, about 30 cm, is poured into the bottom, and carefully rammed.
Our article talks about how it can harm.
huntdogs
They decided to take PGS, since it is cheaper than sand. Compare: sand in the Crimea costs 2 thousand rubles. per 1 ton, and ASG with a small admixture of sea pebbles - 1200 rubles. for 1 ton. Prices are high, but you need to build. We ordered 5 tons.
PGS was poured into buckets and already poured out of them into a narrow trench.
About prices: the cost of renting a vibrating leg (a vibrating plate will not fit in a trench) is 1200 rubles per day + a deposit of 10 thousand rubles.
We add that the height difference on the site in the foundation construction spot is 1200 mm (from the highest to the lowest point). Based on this, and also to save concrete, the user decided to pour the foundation in two stages. Erect first underground part, release mortgages (reinforcement), and then pour the above-ground part of the foundation. Moreover, in order to reduce costs, the top of the tape is made into steps, which are then filled with shells, and the plane is brought “to zero” before further laying of the walls.
The process of building the foundation was divided into a number of successive steps:
1. A fixed formwork made of sheets was installed in the trench flat slate. According to the user, at first he thought of pouring the solution directly into the ground, covering the trench with polyethylene, but in the end the trench, especially the corners, began to crumble.
Slate bought second-hand for 100 rubles. for a sheet measuring 0.9x1.4 m. The sheets were sawn in half. The new same slate costs 500 rubles. for 1 sheet.
Total for slate formwork huntdogs spent 10 thousand rubles.
2. Reinforcement strip foundation. Reinforcement "ten", laid three rods from below, two rods in the middle of the tape and three rods - in the upper part of the foundation, not forgetting to leave mortgages - releases of reinforcement under the "base".
Clamps were made from reinforcement "six".
3. Filling the underground part of the foundation.
huntdogs
The foundation was poured with a concrete pump. The thing is comfortable, but expensive. In total, 15 cubic meters of concrete were poured. 1 cube of concrete costs differently, but on average they ask from 4500 to 5200 rubles. Concrete pump rental - 8 thousand rubles for 1 hour.
When pouring the foundation, you need to remember about the need to vibrate the concrete.
4. Assembling the formwork of the above-ground part of the strip foundation.
The base part of the "tape" comes with two ledges.
The most difficult thing is to level the formwork, doing it alone.
1 cube of boards cost almost 10 thousand rubles.
After assembly, the formwork was tightened polyethylene film density of 200 microns.
Life hack from FORUMHOUSE: huntdogs, having beaten off the hydro level “zero” along the entire perimeter of the formwork, he took advantage of the proposal of the portal users, how to control the horizon when pouring concrete. To do this, they take an ordinary plaster "beacon" of 10 mm and attach it with screws to the walls of the formwork along the marks left from the hydraulic level.
In addition to a clear visual guide, which, unlike stretched fishing lines or steel cables, will not go astray, an additional bonus of the method is that internal guides are obtained, along which it is convenient to pull concrete mix with a wide trowel to achieve an even top of the foundation.
There is material on the portal where they are given, which will not be torn apart when pouring concrete.
5. Reinforcing the corners of the strip foundation and pouring concrete.
In addition, the user made a tray for feeding concrete into the formwork.
huntdogs
Concrete was poured using a 9-meter hydro-chute. It is convenient to apply the mixture to the far corners of the foundation. At the same time, I tested plaster "beacons" to control the level of the horizon. The idea works 100%!
This is what the user ended up with after demoulding.
Estimate for the construction of a strip foundation in the Crimea
Interesting costs for the construction of the foundation:
- Dig a trench 1 meter deep, 0.45 m wide, 50 running meters, only about 22.5 cubic meters of land - 10 thousand rubles. This is budgetary, with an average Crimean price of 800 rubles. for digging 1 cube of earth.
- Flat used slate ( fixed formwork) - 100 sheets of 100 rubles. for 1 sheet - 10 thousand rubles.
- Formwork boards 3 cubes - 35 thousand rubles.
- Polyethylene - more than 3 thousand rubles.
- Reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, only 300 m - 10 thousand rubles.
- 24 cubes of concrete at a price of 4700 rubles. for 1 cubic meter - 112,800 rubles.
- Expenditure (self-tapping screws, knitting wire) - was not considered.
Total: without taking into account the work on the foundation, about 200 thousand rubles were spent. (If you add small things and additional costs).
huntdogs
Everything that is possible, I did on my own - knitted reinforcing cages, put up formwork, poured concrete, etc. All critical work - the construction of foundations, ceilings, reinforcement, etc. did it on my own too. The "mercenaries" worked only under vigilant supervision on my part. You build something for yourself.
Shell rock is considered one of the main building materials. At first this material was used in the construction utility rooms: stables, sheds, garages. And for recent times, having studied its features, it has become indispensable for the construction or insulation of private houses. When planning to do this, you need to take into account that shell rock has many such features which distinguish it from other building artificial stones.
We calculate the leading ability of the material - shell rock
According to its characteristics, the shell rock has a relatively low density. Because of this feature, some people consider it unreliable.
For dangerous areas in terms of earthquakes, when using shell rock, the following must be considered:
- addition of piers and load-bearing walls;
- arrangement of belts and frame made of reinforced concrete;
- reduction of free spans in the wall;
- using high quality material.
Wall laying
Let's start with the solution. It should be elastic, that is, not be too hard, but not spread. For the "correct" compilation, you will need: 1 bucket of PC-400 cement, 4 buckets of sand and almost 1 bucket of water. But, without certain additives, this solution will turn out to be very rough. All attempts to dilute it with water will lead to its stratification. To avoid this, it is better to use DOMOLIT-TR, an additive that will add plasticity to the solution.
If you do not have the funds or the opportunity to purchase this admixture, you can just as well use a regular dishwashing detergent or liquid soap in the ratio of 1 liter of water: 10 ml of the product.
If the volumes of laying the shell rock are small, we prepare the cement mortar manually, if there are 3000 or more blocks, then a concrete mixer will be needed.
Tools you will need when building a house: rubber mallet, nylon thread, level, trowel, buckets for carrying mortar and a trough or concrete mixer for mixing. We give priority to a high-quality level, because the reliability of installation will depend on it. You should not save on buckets either. It is better to purchase steel ones that do not fall apart from the solution inside.
We expel the walls from the shell rock, starting from the corners. This is the most responsible work, because further construction and the quality of laying the whole house depend on the competent conclusion of the corner. But there is one difficulty: the shell rock has the wrong geometric shape. And if you are not sure that you can do it yourself, it is better to invite a bricklayer.
Blocks are stacked in such a way that the extreme top corner departed from the kapron thread by 2 mm. This is necessary so that subsequent rows are not laid in an arcuate manner, which is quite realistic if the shell rock is moved close and it is pressed through. If you stick correct masonry along the thread, you will avoid many mistakes.
In the case of construction in one brick, it is advisable to lay the stone every fourth row. This can be done in 2 ways:
- fold the blocks not along the wall, but across;
- drown the masonry net in the seam between them.
The dressing is used to bind the shell rock in the bearing floor, making it more durable and solid.
We hope that our simple tips will be useful to you. And if you do not want to waste your time, then you can always order from our company.
Call, we will be glad to cooperate!
Shell rock is an inexpensive building material for a home with excellent operational properties. The walls come out of it warm, not requiring additional insulation.
The material itself, due to its porous structure, is quite simple to install, since its surface has stable adhesive properties.
And, nevertheless, the laying of shell rock is significantly different from the laying of concrete blocks, cinder blocks or bricks. Therefore, before laying the shell rock, it is worth learning about the nuances of the upcoming work.
For laying walls from shell rock, you can use the usual cement mixture. However, it is very important that it be plastic, because with a hard solution, it will be very problematic to drive the walls out of the shell rock.
For this reason, the mortar for laying shell rock should have good pliability, be like a paste in consistency, but at the same time, in no case should it spread. So, the proportions of the solution for shell rock look like this:
- For 1 bucket of cement grade 400, 4 buckets of clean sand should be used;
- To the same amount of dry mixes, you need to add 10-12 liters of water;
- It is important to use a plasticizer, which will make the solution plastic. For 1 m³ of solution, you need about 0.5 liters of plasticizer
It can be used for laying shell rock, as well as concrete mix grades 10-25-50. Except cement mortar, no less popular when working with shell rock, are cement-lime and cement-clay mortar.
Cement-clay mortar for laying shell rock is made from calculations: 1 part of cement, 1 part of water and 5 parts of clay. Cement-lime mortar, consists of 9 parts lime, 1 part cement and the same ratio of water.
It is necessary to start laying shell rock on a previously prepared foundation surface. For this, several layers are laid on the base. waterproofing material, as a rule, an ordinary ruberoid.
Then, starting from the corners, tight rope, the laying of the first blocks of shell rock is in progress. This is the most important part of the work, on which the evenness of all rows depends. Further, along the same stretched thread for verification, the forcing of the first row begins, followed by dressing of the corners.
At the same time, it is very important to take into account the thickness of the horizontal seam, it should be no more than 2 cm. The same indicator for vertical seams is slightly lower - 1.5 cm. building level, at the entire stage of the construction of the walls.
