How to build a home oven with your own hands. Schemes and drawings of brick ovens - the correct laying. Video: heating stove for small spaces

Stove heating of a private house in the last 5-10 years is at the peak of popularity. This is understandable, because the stove is a colorful element of the interior, an excellent heating device, an indicator of the taste and skill of the owners, their prosperity. For the construction of the furnace, it is better to find a professional stove-maker. But today this almost lost profession is only being revived, and it is not easy to find a real pro. To fold the stove according to all the rules, you will have to make a lot of efforts, master special knowledge and skills, and be prepared to pay a considerable amount for building materials.

Types of stoves for the home

Russian brick oven

The most multifunctional furnace design. It has a lounge area. Under the bed is a cooking chamber called furnace or furnace. Under the firebox there is a blower, which ensures the continuity of the process of burning wood or coal. There is also a niche for storing kitchen utensils and keeping food hot.

The standard dimensions of a Russian stove reach two meters in height, two and a half meters in length and one and a half meters in width. Thanks to such an impressive size, the stove heats a room with an area of ​​​​more than 40 square meters. m. The disadvantage is that the operation of the Russian stove requires a lot of fuel.

Swede stove

She is more compact than the Russian stove: the height of the "Swede" is about two meters, the width and length do not exceed a meter. Such an oven has two purposes - heating the room and cooking. Above the firebox is a two-burner cast-iron stove, on the side is an oven. A nuance in the construction of a Swedish oven is that a stove is mounted in the kitchen, while the rest goes into another room.

Serious minus Swedish stove - high fire hazard. To prevent fires, Swedish stoves are equipped with dampers.

Surprisingly, despite the name, the stove was invented by Russian stove-makers. The purpose of the "Dutch" is heating the room. characteristic feature - compactness and high heat dissipation. For enough 10 hours to fully warm up the room. In the off-season, the stove keeps warm for a day. The design feature of such a furnace is in a pipe with a winding chimney that provides high heat transfer. The oven is also supplied capacious fuel tank.

The Dutch stove is built exclusively from stove bricks, which quickly accumulate heat, and then gradually release it. Furnace brick is an expensive pleasure. Therefore, when building a Dutch oven, you will have to spend a lot of money.

There are also garden ovens, sauna wood stoves, cooking, heating and cooking combined, fireplaces.

Now, having an idea about the varieties of brick ovens, knowing the characteristics own premises and the necessary functionality, you can decide on the choice of furnace. I must say that for the laying of all furnaces there are General requirements principles, which we will discuss below.

Furnace construction plan

Before all design refinements, the proposed design should meet the requirements of fire and structural safety. So it's worth giving Special attention preparatory stage.

• We develop a detailed project-scheme of the furnace;
• We determine the place of installation of the furnace;
• Choosing materials for construction;
• We select the tool;
• Decide on the need for assistants;
• We calculate the construction budget;

Particular attention is paid to the project scheme. It is from competent engineering development depends on the ultimate success of the entire enterprise. Currently available for purchase finished project oven masonry. Even entire video courses have been developed for beginner furnace masters. When choosing a project, it is worth clarifying the accuracy and specificity of the data provided, especially the numbers, whether all aspects of construction are described step by step. The project should contain detailed comments. A serious project must be supplied high-quality photographic material the main stages of masonry. In a word, in good project everything is explained literally “on the fingers”.

When choosing a place of installation, a lot depends from the area of ​​​​the room and the type of furnace. There are so many subtleties and pitfalls here that the masters recommend beginner stove-makers to create reduced models of their creations. Such a "training" will allow the concept of the upcoming masonry and on preparatory stage eliminate miscalculations and errors.

If the amount of work is significant, your own experience is not enough, then you will have to resort to help. At the final stage, we calculate all costs.

We stock up on tools

When laying the furnace, you will need measuring, construction and auxiliary tools.

Construction tools:

• Bulgarians for cutting bricks;
• Scoop shovel;
• Metal sieve for sifting sand, mortar. Sieve cell - no more than 2 millimeters;
• Jointing for sealing the solution;
• Combined trowel for laying mortar;
• Perforator with mixer nozzle;
• Hammer-pick for cutting bricks;

Measuring tools:

• Roulette with a length of at least 5 m for measuring and marking;
• Plumb to control the verticality of the corners;
• Furnace line - wooden lath a little more than a meter long with smooth edges. The rule, as the ruler is called, serves to check the evenness of the masonry. There should be no gaps between the rule and the oven wall
• opening template;
• building level to check the masonry horizon;
• flexible level;

Auxiliary "tools" are buckets, tubs, mops with rags, etc.

We buy building materials

Whatever oven we build, the materials will need the same: brick, sand, clay . Special attention - choice of brick. There are four types of kiln bricks:

• Brick hand molded;
• Silicate;
• Refractory;
• Ceramic;

Furnace lining is made ceramic brick. It is better to stop at the more expensive brick M-250 or M-500, which is more homogeneous than cheaper counterparts. In addition, such a brick is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Another advantage of expensive bricks is excellent forming properties for decorative finishing .

Sand. Must be clean as a tear: no litter, impurities. To do this, it will have to be sifted through a construction sieve.

Clay. Distinguish normal, skinny and fat. The technology and proportions of the preparation of the solution depend on the type of clay. Experts prefer normal clay can range from 0.5:1 to 3:1. It is best to use clay of normal fat content;

When purchasing building materials, it is important to remember that "the miser pays twice", so let's forget about saving for a while. Otherwise, the oven will not last long.

The basis of the furnace - the foundation

However, the first thing to do is to ensure a minimum distance of 15 cm between the roof slab and the chimney pipe. And only after that you can start marking the place of the foundation, which should be larger than the rest of the structure.

Ideally, the furnace foundation is formed during the construction of a common house foundation. In order for the stove and the house itself to last as long as possible, their foundations should not be contacted. This requirement is due to the fact that natural shrinkage foundations are different due to temperature differences and loads.

The most common technique for building a foundation for a furnace is pit is poured with concrete followed by brick construction. Pre-staged wooden formwork. The foundation should be wider than the future dimensions of the stove by about 15 centimeters (in each direction). The upper foundation level should be about 19 centimeters below the floor. The foundation must be perfectly level in order to correctly lay the first row of bricks. The foundation is not thoroughly satisfied only when building a fireplace. But then they calculate the load on the floor (on the upper floors)

Mandatory foundation waterproofed with roofing felt or roofing material. If the size of the stove is larger than the width of the materials, they are laid “overlapping” with an allowance of 10 centimeters. In this case, the diagonals are controlled. If the quality of the diagonal directions is violated, then there will be big problems with the further laying of the stove.

Let's start laying the oven

Having prepared the solution, you can put first row of bricks. This is where a spatula and trowel come into play. But in the old days, good stove-makers put the mortar with their bare hands. The solution was laid out by hand on the surface and spread over it in a thin layer.

A big misconception for novice craftsmen is that they do not spare the solution for the oven. In practice the thinner the mortar layer, the better the bricks will “grab”, the stronger, more durable and “hotter” the stove will be.

We hold the brick with one hand in weight. With light blows we make outlines of the future chip. We outline each edge in turn. Holding the brick to the canopy, we make a sharp and precise cutting into pieces, adhering to the intended lines. The first layer of the stove must be laid out filigree. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle is laid, the seams are carefully filled with mortar without voids.

The initial rows are laid only from a whole brick. Must be observed stitching rule: vertical seams should not match. But after the first rows of masonry, you will definitely need to cut the brick.

Rule for laying chipped bricks- the chopped side is directed inside the masonry array. First of all, we pay attention to this moment when constructing the firebox and smoke channels. Otherwise, chips will become a place for soot to accumulate, which will clog the chimney.

Video instruction for laying the Swedish stove

Features of the calculation of vaults and arches

Brick laid out by the method of gradual inlet at least two rows thick. The thickness of such an overlap must always be at least 2 rows. The opening of the firebox is covered with a "castle" lining, or with a "lintel" masonry. Then the bricks are placed vertically on the metal corner in the form of a jumper. Metal corner can be replaced wood frame, disassembled after the masonry has dried.

For the pipe we use silicate brick. Its properties allow it to withstand temperature extremes, precipitation. It is more resistant to the acidic environment, which is formed by the interaction of water vapor and smoke. At the same time, it is important that there are no chips and irregularities in the chimney. Liquid glass is used to level the “inside” of the chimney.

Now the oven is ready. After two or three weeks, you can spend control furnace. Stoves and fireplaces are becoming more and more popular. They say that the sight of a fire burning in a stove, the sound of crackling firewood, the flickering of coals not only help relieve stress, but can also put a person into a state of light trance. The main thing is that the furnace was erected correctly, for decades.

The construction of a brick oven is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. You can build it with your own hands, but in this case you should be extremely careful and strictly follow the bricklaying scheme (order). If for you, this is the first laying of a brick oven with your own hands, then it is better to get detailed advice from a specialist or lay out the oven under his guidance.

Choosing a brick oven

In large private houses and cottages, boilers with water heating are most often used for heating. For heating buildings with 2-3 living quarters, it is enough to build a brick oven. It not only keeps heat much longer, but also creates a special microclimate in the room and can become a real decoration of the house. However, a brick oven also has a significant drawback: this structure is very overall and takes up too much space.

There are several types of brick ovens:
in the rating of such structures Swede deservedly takes first place; it is compact, has a hob and is equipped with three-channel shield(a heat exchanger that allows you to keep warm for a long time, in the form of a wall with chimneys inside, can simultaneously play the role bearing wall or stand alone) their varieties include the designs of Kuznetsov, Buslaev, etc.;

The appearance of the Swedish stove and the construction of a wall with a three-channel shield

Despite its name, dutch oven With vertical chimneys (channels in which heat is stored and through which smoke is removed) was invented by Russian craftsmen; has a high heat transfer; usually has 2 channels: summer and winter, which makes it easier to kindle after a long break; in the classic versions, the hob is not provided, however, there are variations of stoves with both a built-in fireplace and a hob;

Classic Dutch stove with vertical chimneys

Chimneys with vertical (like the Dutch) and horizontal arrangement of channels

Russian oven keeps heat for a very long time: up to 2-3 days; has a gas threshold (a wall between the chamber and the mouth of the furnace); it warms up for a very long time, and it takes up plenty of space, its dimensions are such that several people can fit on its couch at the same time; that is why in recent years such designs have been used quite rarely.

Russian stove

By wall thickness all furnaces are divided into:

Thin-walled: in one brick, ideal option for country houses;

Thick-walled: erected in rooms intended for permanent residence, keep warm for a long time;

Combined: thick walls are laid out only in the firebox; the chimney has thin walls.

Single and double bell ovens Kuznetsova is one of the most common variations of the Swedish oven. Unlike conventional canal, the exit of hot gases through the chimneys is carried out not only due to draft, but also in a natural way due to the special design of the smoke channels. The smoke in them first rises up, and when it cools down it goes down. Since there is much less heat leakage in them (after all, warm air cannot find a way out until it cools down), such furnaces are able to store heat for a long time.

Scheme of a bell-shaped chimney

A brick oven may not have a finish or be sewn up with metal, plastered, laid out ceramic tiles or facing stone or fit under the jointing (with sealing and giving the seams a special shape).

Furnace jointing

Furnace finishes

Do you need a foundation for the stove?

Brick is a fairly heavy material. The weight of the folded furnace can reach 8-10 tons, so the foundation for the furnace needs to be solid. Otherwise, due to movements in the ground and its expansion during freezing, cracks may form in it or it may completely collapse. Sometimes, for more uniform shrinkage, if there are several stoves or fireplaces in the house, separate bases are made not only for them, but also for the root (located on separate area) chimney.

Foundation for the furnace

Since the subsidence of the soil under the stove and the house will be different, the foundation for such a structure should be built separately from the base of the building itself. Between the main and furnace foundations, a gap of 50 mm is necessarily made, which is filled with sand.

If the furnace is being erected in an already built building, it is allowed to install a structure weighing up to 1200 kg (300-350 bricks) on the floor panel. On a wooden floor, it is permissible to erect structures up to 700 kg.

The best foundation for a massive heating furnace is concrete. For cement M400, the ratio of cement, sand and gravel will be 1:3:5. When using the M250 brand, the proportions change: 1:2:4. The depth of the concrete pad depends on the weight of the furnace, the density of the soil and the depth of soil freezing. In each region of Russia, it will be different (see photo).

Soil freezing depth

1. The foundation should protrude from the edges of the furnace in each direction by a brick (10-15 cm). At the firebox, this distance can be slightly larger - up to 30 cm.

2. The bottom of the pit prepared for the foundation is rammed. Then a layer of waterproofing is laid on it.

3. Before laying the mortar in the pit, a 10-centimeter crushed stone pillow and 15 cm of rubble stone are poured into the pit. All the free space between the stones is also filled with rubble and poured with mortar.

5. So that the solution does not crack during the drying process, it is poured into the pit in layers, and each layer must withstand at least a day.

6. After the formwork is removed, the resulting gaps are filled with sand, spilled with water and carefully compacted.

Laying the foundation for the furnace at the stage of building construction

Important! A massive furnace should be erected only after the solution has completely solidified. The foundation gains 50% strength after 15 days. The final hardening occurs only after 28 days.

masonry tools

For work you will need:

Trowel for scooping and laying mortar; the tool with the handle slightly shifted to the side is most convenient to use;

Pickaxe or pickaxe hammer: for tees of undersized bricks;

Bulgarian with a diamond blade for sawing them into halves and quarters;

Mallet with a rubber tip for tamping bricks in laying;

Twisted cord-mooring;

Plumb for checking vertical surfaces;

Building level;

A square with which the corners will be aligned;

Roulette.

Furnace masonry tools

To align walls and corners, you can use a mooring cord and a metal corner

Masonry mortar

Cement mixture under the action high temperatures cracks quickly, so only clay-sand mortar. For the installation of a pipe passing through the attic, lime or lime-cement mortar is used. The cement-sand mixture is used only for laying pipes above the roof.

The ratio of clay and sifted sand is selected experimentally. It depends on the type of clay. Most often, mixtures of 1: 2 or 1: 3 are used. Moreover, the fatter the clay, the less it should be in the solution. First, the clay is soaked, filtered through a sieve, and only then sand is added.

The solution should have the consistency of a fairly thick sour cream. The viscosity of the mixture can be determined as follows. A wooden stick or trowel is lowered into the solution and shaken. If a layer less than 2 mm thick remains on it, clay is added, more than 3 mm, sand is added. Too greasy mortar will lead to cracking of the masonry seam, with a lack of clay, sand will spill out of the seams.

Secrets of brickwork

It is better to lay out the oven from refractory fireclay bricks. To save money, you can lay out only a firebox for them, but use ordinary silicate for the rest of the furnace. However, combine them in one bundle, as well as a brick from different manufacturers, not recommended: with temperature changes, the degree of their expansion will be different, so such an oven can “lead”. fragile hollow brick not used for masonry.

Types, sizes and weight of bricks

1. For the installation of furnaces, orders are used: detailed diagrams that indicate the process of laying each row. Location in the fireclay furnace refractory brick in such schemes it is indicated by hatching or highlighted in color. It is strongly not recommended to change the order unnecessarily: deviations in the scheme can lead to a narrowing of the flue channels.

Laying fireclay for fireboxes and chimneys and silicate bricks

2. Before laying bricks, 2 layers are placed on the base waterproofing: roofing felt or roofing felt impregnated with mastic. To protect the solution from dehydration, the brick is first soaked in water for a couple of minutes.

3. Its first row is laid out dry without mortar. Next, the layout is carried out with overlapping joints the previous row. Each seam must be completely filled with mortar, without voids and sinks.

4. The row is laid from the corners (see photo). After that, between the two corner bricks, the report of the entire row is made.

Laying a row

5. Each row is checked building level to match horizontal and vertical.

6. To avoid mistakes, the row is first laid out without mortar. Then the serial number of each of the bricks is signed with chalk, they are removed and the final laying begins. Not only horizontal, but also all vertical seams are smeared with a solution with a layer of 3-5 mm.

Important! When laying chimneys, do not use halves and quarters of bricks. If they fall out, getting them out of the chimney will be problematic. It is better to use parts of bricks in the uppermost rows of the structure.

7. The hob and the grate are laid with a gap of 5 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.

8. The doors of the furnace and blower are insulated with asbestos and additionally fastened to the wire, which is laid in the seams of the masonry. For its fastening in a cast-iron frame, special holes are necessarily provided.

Furnace door fixing

9. The walls of the chimney must be perfectly smooth and even. Soot lumps will accumulate in the joints and chips of bricks, therefore, only perfectly even bricks without defects are used to equip chimneys. The remains of the solution in such places should be immediately wiped with a rag or rag.

10. When erecting a pipe, the most difficult is the section passing through the attic floor. The walls in this place are increased so that their width exceeds 38 cm, while the cross section of the chimney remains unchanged.

The diagrams below provide ordering a small Swedish oven for 570 bricks with a hob. For the device of such an oven you will also need:

Cast iron stove with two burners;

Cast iron doors for the furnace and blower;

3 cleaning doors to remove soot;

2 valves;

Metal oven;

corner,

Steel strip for covering over the hob.

Video: Laying a brick oven with your own hands

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The good old brick oven does not give up its position under the onslaught of modern highly efficient competitors. Controversy - why? - do not count, but in fact there is only one reason: the brick stove breathes. Stone, by the way, no.

What does it mean to breathe? When heated, the microporous body of the furnace emits moisture vapor into the air of the heated room, and when it cools, it absorbs them. As a result, the brick oven supports the so-called. the dew point in the room within the optimal limits from the point of view of physiology. When they say that a brick oven is “healthier” than any other, then, knowingly or not, this factor is meant.

In addition to a beneficial effect on health, the breathing of the furnace gives another important consequence: with a medical and thermal engineering calculation at home, the lower temperature limits in it can be reduced to 18 degrees for comfort and up to 20 degrees for medicine, because. relative humidity in heating season will be close to optimal. In wooden and brick buildings, it can give super-savings: at 16-17 degrees in them, over 80% of physically healthy people do not feel discomfort, and bed linen remains dry. And in stone or concrete house, heated by batteries, and at 18 degrees it can be chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperatures should be taken at 20 and 22 degrees, respectively, and when heated with IR emitters, electric or gas catalytic, one degree higher; IR devices dry the air a lot. Therefore, a brick heating stove with an efficiency factor (heat transfer coefficient) of 50% can be more economical in terms of heating costs than an ultra-modern metal-composite one with an efficiency factor of 70%, because the heat loss of a house strongly, according to a power law, depends on the difference between internal and external temperatures (temperature gradient).

Note: a little breathing can be achieved by enclosing it with a convection screen (see fig.) 30-40 mm thick made of plywood, seasoned hardwood or several layers of drywall. At the same time, uniform heating of the room along the height will be ensured. But the breathing of such a furnace will not be deep and even. Here modern technologies they haven't touched the brick yet.

Furnace respiration, combined with physiology, gives a second-order economic consequence: the heating season can start later and end earlier. AT middle lane In the Russian Federation, the difference for a year can reach a week, and in the Black Earth region and to the south - 2-3. For which it will not be necessary to purchase fuel. And if you consider that a good brick stove works on everything that burns, including waste and cheap alternative fuels (pellets, etc.), then the savings increase even more.

Note: on a global scale, brick kilns still do not fit well into the environment - the extraction and production of materials for them causes damage to the environment more than savings from furnace heating on losses in heat mains and power lines. But in this case Demand no longer creates, but dictates supply. Leading furnace companies are quietly but hard at work on improving the technologies for the production of furnace materials and creating brick kilns that can be transported to ready-made and installation immediately at the place of use.

Those wishing to lay down the oven with their own hands does not decrease. Professional stove-makers also do not break the price: their work is in demand, the competition is quite high, and, in addition, most of them are enthusiasts in their field. But in order to take on the stove yourself or competently consider the proposed project, you need to know the basic principles of building stoves, which is what this article is written about.

Is it only in the house?

A brick oven on the farm is useful not only for heating and cooking. Stationary can bring a very good income, as well as a barbecue or IP working in the field of catering.

In everyday life, first of all, the high heat capacity of a brick is important, which ensures long-term heat transfer after heating. Once the firebox is empty, you can sleep peacefully without fear of intoxication. For industrial ovens, the already low thermal conductivity of bricks comes to the fore, which makes it possible to create a high concentration of heat in working area. In this case, the breathing of the furnace becomes already a harmful factor, and it is most often stopped by placing the furnace in a gas-tight case.

Small businessmen specializing in handicraft industrial production, it is worth thinking about such types industrial furnaces, which is quite possible to do it yourself:

• Cupola furnace - at the utility yard it is possible to melt up to 50 kg of scrap metal at a time.
• - for hardening of metal products with simultaneous cementing.
• Kiln for ceramics, etc.

Note: brick ovens are not recommended for heating greenhouses, greenhouses, poultry houses, stockyards. A miasma-breathing stove will spoil the air, and will soon deteriorate itself.

The fact is that factory samples of small industrial furnaces are designed for transportation in parts or assembled. Therefore, their prices are prohibitively high. But, laying out the oven on the spot, you can get no worse, without getting into a heavy loan, and develop a profitable business. For now, we will dwell on: they were the first to appear in everyday life and the principles laid down in them are also valid for others.

Note: a separate analysis requires a stove for a bath. Here the brick is also at its best, but for slightly different reasons. Bath stoves there will be a separate section below.

Furnace in the house

It is not necessary to build a house from a stove, you can also choose a stove suitable for the house. But first you need to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the building, taking into account the factors described above, and determine the place for the stove in the house. You also need to know that the insulation of the house from the outside increases the efficiency of stove heating much more than heating with registers. And, in turn, sheathing the house with siding greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of insulation. Those., optimal design house oven should initially be integrated.

With regard to planning, here are possible different variants, see fig. The house on the left of it is suitable, for example, for a bachelor hermit, but not an ascetic or a childless family of convinced sybarites, a warm bed in the bedroom will come in handy here. The stove is heating and cooking. Russian does not fit into such a house, but Swedish (see below) is perfect. The option is budget housing for a small family, then the bedroom turns into a nursery or a zone in the penthouse is allocated for children.

In the middle the house is already bigger and more impressive. A fireplace stove with a finished cast iron firebox opens into the living room, see below; firebox door made of heat-resistant glass. Here, too, different options are possible. If, for example, the kitchen with a bathroom is interchanged, the heating shield (see below) is rotated 90 degrees, and the veranda from the hallway is moved to the right side, then it is possible, due to some reduction in the living room, to shield another 1-2 bedrooms. At the same time, to the places common use pass the corridor.

The plan on the right is more suitable for giving. In summer, opening the window in the kitchen-hallway, it will not be too hot to cook. A fireplace stove in the corner - for evening gatherings by the fire; in it, in case of bad weather, it will be possible to cook a barbecue or barbecue on a grill.

Already at the stage of planning a house with a stove, you need to consider the following:

1. For a tall stove with its own chimney, or for a stove with 500 or more bricks, a separate foundation is needed that has no mechanical connection with the foundation of the building, even if they are designed and built together;
2. A low and wide hob and a heating shield for it on the floor, made according to the requirements of SNiP (that is, capable of holding a load of at least 250 kg / sq. M) can be placed without a foundation, making only thermal insulation; more about her. It is advisable to reinforce the flooring under the shield with additional lags;
3. The cutting of the chimney (also see below) should not come into contact with the ceiling beams, it is very desirable that the distances from the cutting to the floor beams closest to it be approximately the same.
4. The chimney must protrude above the roof ridge by at least 500 mm and be at least 1500 mm away from it.

Clause 1 allows exceptions. If the furnace is made of 1000 or less bricks, and the foundation of the house is strip sectional, then the foundation of the furnace can be built at the intersection or T-joint tapes under interior walls. In this case, the distance from the furnace foundation to the nearest other strips of the building foundation must be at least 1.2 m.

Note: because Since a small Russian stove requires 1,500 bricks, then all Russian stoves must be built on separate foundations. But here there is an exception - a small Russian can be built on guardianship from wooden beam 150x150 mm, penetrating the floor to the buta in the foundation of a building or soil.

Furnace structure

The oven itself is sometimes referred to as the body of the oven. The furnace body is installed on the hydro- and thermal insulation of the furnace foundation or floor and ends with a chimney exiting through the attic and roof. All this together is called the structure of the furnace. The structure of a brick heating furnace is shown in fig. on right:

1. foundation;
2. hydrothermal insulation;
3. trenches - a kind of legs, they are made for lower heating and saving bricks;
4. blew;
5. the entrance of the ventilator - an air channel that provides uniform heating of the room in height;
6. blower door;
7. grate;
8. firebox door - worked - with the course of fuel supply - rut;
9. the firebox of the firebox, or just the firebox, or just the firebox;
10. furnace vault;
11. the mouth of the firebox, or its highlo. Sometimes only the vertical mouth of the firebox with a narrowing (nozzle) is called hail, and in the Russian stove hail is the nozzle at the beginning of the chimney;
12. cleaning door or just cleaning;
13. overflow (pass) - the inflection of the channel of the air convector of the air vent;
14. air convector ventilator;
15. valve for switching the furnace stroke (see below, shown conditionally);
16. gas (smoke) convector, or convective furnace system;
17. view - a valve that closes the chimney after heating, so that the stove does not get cold by natural or wind draft;
18. the exit of the air vent into the room with its door. In the summer, the door of the stuffing box is closed, and the air convection in it stops;
19. chimney flue channel;
20. overlap of the furnace;
21. internal cutting of the chimney;
22. ceiling covering;
23. fire fighting;
24. fluff, or otter - expansion of the mouth of the chimney.

Note: the side of the furnace with the work (in the Russian furnace the work is sometimes called the pharynx) is called the forehead of the furnace, and its side walls are called mirrors or cheeks.

Let's give some explanations. Foundation - solid reinforced concrete; for the furnace on the trenches - banded packed. Removal of the foundation - at least 50 mm. Insulation - 2-3 layers of roofing material, on top of them - 4-6 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, then a sheet of roofing iron, and on it laying under the masonry - a sheet of felt or basalt cardboard soaked in a very liquid masonry mortar for the furnace, see about it . Further. The litter is laid on the iron wet and allowed to dry before laying.

The first rows of masonry of the furnace body (oblique shading in the figure) are made of ordinary ceramic red brick (not front!) on a cement-sand mortar, this is the furnace part of the furnace. Next comes the furnace, or fire part (hatching in a box), it is laid from ceramic oven bricks in combination with fireclay, about bricks also further, on a clay-sand mortar.

In front of the blower door and the worker, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the floor on an asbestos or basalt cardboard pillow of 4-6 mm, its root edge is immured into the nearest upper masonry seam. Removal of the sheet forward - not less than 300 mm, and to the sides of the forehead - not less than 150 mm. The free edges of the sheet are folded over and nailed to the floor.

Clay masonry mortar does not seize, but dries. With an irregular firebox in the cold season, it gradually becomes sour from moisture. In this case, a part of the body of the furnace, the temperature in which does not rise above 200-250 degrees, is laid out from furnace bricks, but on a cement-sand mortar, which is also much cheaper than clay, oblique hatching with a gray fill in fig. The solution for this part of the masonry is Portland cement from M400 and mountain sand without inclusions. Replacement with decorative analogues is unacceptable!

The lower transitions from the channel to the channel of the gas convector (overflows) should be 30-50% higher in height than the upper ones (passes). This will ensure that soot accumulates at the bottom of the convector (on its hearth), from where it can be easily removed. For the same purpose, the edges of the passes are rounded.

Starting from 80 degrees in the chimney, the masonry is again made of simple bricks on a conventional cement-sand mortar. The internal cutting of the chimney is necessary, it holds the fireproof cutting (at least 50 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard in a metal cage) and, most importantly, in the event of a soot fire, it will absorb heat for a time sufficient to take the necessary measures.

The role of fluff (otter) is aerodynamic. It cuts through the wind flow, forcing its upper part to jump over the mouth of the chimney, so the draft is not so dependent on the wind. The height of the fluff is at least 2 rows of bricks, the removal at the cut of the mouth is half a brick. The neglect of fluffing is a very common cause of smoking stoves.

The choice of the scheme of the furnace

The main schemes of convection of domestic brick ovens are shown in fig. On the left - a channel furnace with a sequential gas convector, the easiest to execute. According to the serial channel scheme, similar ones are built. In addition to simplicity, the advantage of the channel scheme is that it is very flexible in design. The convector with the firebox is mechanically connected only with a hail, so the channel stove can be designed for any ready-made room, see next. rice.

However, the efficiency of purely channel stoves rarely exceeds 40%, and it is very difficult to build a water heater into them: a powerful internal heat flow circulates in the body of the stove, and any violation of it leads to a drop in efficiency and increased soot deposition.

In the center in Fig. with diagrams the most advanced heating and cooking stove made of bricks -, its efficiency reaches 60%. It is a chamber oven (the role of the air chamber, streamlined by a stream of hot gases, is played by oven 1) and a channel convector stretched from floor to ceiling behind it. In the chamber part of the Swede, gases heat up hob in the cooking niche 2, and part of the convector heat goes to the dryer 3. Advantages of the Swedish oven:

• The convector and oven do not have energy feedback with a furnace part, so a U- or W-shaped heat exchanger can be built into the oven on the side DHW systems with a storage tank, and place the tank itself either in a drying niche or on the ceiling of the furnace.
• afterburning flue gases takes place in the chamber part of the furnace. They go into the convector with a temperature below 800 degrees, so it can be made from ordinary bricks on a cement-sand mortar.
• The high narrow convector gives uniform warming up of the room on height.
• Part of the flue gases from the outlet of the chamber can be passed, for example, into a stove bench, and then returned to the convector without worsening the parameters of the furnace.
• The dimensions of the convector can be varied, shifted and rotated relative to the chamber part, so the Swede also fits well into the finished house and can heat up to 3 rooms, see next. rice. (after channel furnaces).
• If you open the oven door, a powerful stream of thermal radiation will come out of it, which will quickly warm up and dry people who have come from hard work in the cold.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish furnace is the high quality requirements for materials and work for the chamber part of the furnace. In addition, a foundation is definitely needed under it; without it, a tall and narrow structure, parts of which are loaded differently due to thermal stresses, will turn out to be fragile and unstable. Only an experienced stove-maker can make a Swedish-type oven.

Finally, on the right in Fig. with diagrams - bell-type furnace. Its efficiency can exceed 70%, because. it is self-regulating: flue gases will not go into the chimney until they burn out under the dome of the hood and give up their heat to the body of the furnace. In addition, a bell-type furnace has the property of a gas view: if you forget to close the standard one, hot gases under the hood will not let heavy cold air from hail, and the stove won't get cold. This guarantees against intoxication due to an untimely closed view.

However, the bell-type furnace looks simple only on the diagram, and in execution it is very difficult due to the high loads in the design. Then, the bell-type stove is exclusively heating, it is impossible to build a hob into it. Heat extraction for a water heater is possible only in two-bell stoves, which are even more complex, so bell-type stoves are not very common in everyday life. The exception is, but such talented stove-makers are rarely born.

Plate and shield

The development of the idea of ​​the Swede gave rise to a very promising design: a conventional hob with a separate heating shield-convector, see fig. All that was required for this was to abandon the cooking and drying niches, this made it possible to mechanically separate the chamber and channel parts, i.e. build them separately; maybe even one by one.

What do we get in return? Less load on the floor. The slab can in most cases be built directly on a wooden floor with the same insulation as the stove foundation. And under the shield, just a damping pad made of basalt cardboard is enough. The problem of the stability of a high narrow shield remains, but it is solved by creating its mechanical connection with the wall, even if it is a half-brick partition, see fig. left.

Further, the shield can be moved and unfolded relative to the stove, then the stove can heat the kitchen with a bathroom, and the shield can even heat up to 4 rooms. To do this, insert a flexible link made of heat-resistant corrugation with good thermal insulation into the horizontal section of the chimney between them to avoid soot deposition. In general, at the cost of abandoning niches that are almost unnecessary in our time, a fundamentally new and very practical design has turned out.

Seasonal oven moves

In summer, when it is already so hot, there is no need to heat the room. But putting scanty amounts of fuel into the furnace will also fail: the limits for adjusting the power by supplying fuel to all furnaces are small. The heat from a small bookmark will fly out into the pipe, the rest will not be enough for scrambled eggs. But not everyone has the opportunity to get a summer kitchen with a stove.

In such a case, furnace designs were invented with switching from summer to winter. The easiest way to switch the course in a channel furnace parallel circuit, two left pos. in fig. below. However, the maximum efficiency of a channel-parallel furnace can only be achieved with a power of more than 20 kW. The square-cube law applies here, and in a furnace that is too small, the heat will “whistle” into the pipe without having time to heat the convector. In addition, all two-way furnaces are potentially dangerous: if you inadvertently close both valves, waste will go. Finally, during the summer run, the overlap and part of the cheeks of the furnace are still heated.

Meanwhile, there is a two-way scheme, especially suitable for heating shields: a scheme with two chimneys, summer and winter, two pos. on the right in Fig. It needs only one valve, so it is completely safe - there will be traction in any position of the switch. The position of the valve out of season will immediately be felt by heat transfer, and you can switch the course during the firebox. And smoothly regulate the heating by partially closing the damper.

On a summer course, gases will not squeeze through in a winter course: aerodynamic drag the labyrinth of the convector is much larger than that of a straight pipe. And the complexity of the construction of chimneys is not at all double: the gases go into the winter chimney cooled below 80 degrees, so the winter chimney can be lightened and simplified, for example. asbestos-cement. The only small minus of a system with two chimneys is that each pair of convector channels needs to be cleaned.

Special Furnaces

Before moving on to a more detailed analysis of conventional furnaces, let's dwell on a few special, highly sought-after designs.

Barbecue oven

The real one is an ancient open hearth, see fig. It is built either outdoors under a canopy or indoors under a smoke hood. Masonry without any tricks: in half a brick with a spoon dressing. 3-4 rows need to be laid out with pokes to make supports for the brazier and grates. However, for more details on masonry, see below.

The foundation for an outdoor barbecue is the simplest, slab of ready-made concrete monoliths or stone blocks on a sand and gravel cushion. An indoor barbecue is built directly on the floor on the combined insulation described above.

The barbecue has one subtlety: the side of the brazier, it heats the cooking from the sides in the right hearth. Therefore, it is desirable to lay out the top 2-3 rows of fireclay bricks, it absorbs heat very well and slowly releases it. In order for the top of the brazier to warm up faster, faceted shaped bricks should be taken, as shown in fig. below. It is warm along the wedge-shaped depressions between them will pass faster in masonry. You can make shaped bricks for barbecue yourself, but then you have to work as a grinder.

bathhouse

How the stove is built in the usual way; here main secret- the device of the heater. The closed heater, through which flue gases pass (on the left in the figure), warms up quickly and gives the most useful dry steam. But you can’t “pour” water or kvass on it, you will have to melt the stove again. In addition, the slightest flaw - improperly selected stones, poor fuel, violation of the furnace regime - leads to the deposition of unburned organic matter in the heater, and dry steam can be toxic and carcinogenic.

An open heater (second from the left in the figure) is safe, but takes a long time to heat up. To take a steam bath with “overdating”, the stove must be heated all the time, so it must go out into the dressing room: waste is especially dangerous at high air temperatures. Pressing too much, the heater can be cooled down altogether, and that's it. bath will go down the drain.

The third oven on the left with a side closed heater is more perfect: the bunker with stones is washed by hot gases from all sides except the front one, so the heater warms up faster and more can be pumped into it. But the most perfect sauna stove is the bell stove, the one on the far right. The heater is located on the vault of the hood, the temperature under which is very high, there is the main source of heat release, and this heat has nowhere to go except in stones. Therefore, the heater warms up in a matter of minutes and can be pumped almost without restrictions. There is no need to heat the stove, the “cap” will choose the mode for itself depending on the heat consumption, as long as there is fuel in the furnace.

This oven has 3 drawbacks. Firstly, the overall complexity and high cost, like bell-type furnaces in general. Secondly, a cap made of ordinary steel quickly burns out, but one made of heat-resistant roads. Finally, it is possible to pump into the heater of this stove only from the built-in shower, and you cannot fill it with kvass.

Flow Furnaces

Flow furnaces do not have convectors, but they have only an external resemblance to a fire in a chimney or cave. Flow ovens can be very efficient. The most popular types are the English fireplace and the Russian stove.

Fireplace

The structure diagram is shown in fig. To obtain maximum efficiency, comparable to the efficiency of a Dutch woman, the fireplace insert should be tapering back on all sides, on the right in fig.

The main proportions of the fireplace are as follows:

• The area of ​​the portal is 2% of the area of ​​the premises.
• The height of the portal is from 2/3 to 3/4 of its width.
• The area of ​​​​the furnace opening is 1.5-1.8% of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
• The hearth area of ​​the firebox is 70% of the portal area.
• The depth of the firebox is 1/2-2/3 of the height of the furnace opening.
• The fracture of the rear wall of the firebox is 1/3 of its height.
• The angle of inclination of the "mirror" of the rear wall is 20-22 degrees from the vertical.
• The angle of convergence of the side walls is 45-60 degrees, i.e. 22.5-30 degrees for each.
• If the fireplace is with a solid hearth, then its rise back is 4-7 degrees.
• The height of the podium above the floor is about 50 cm.
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney is 7-13% of the furnace area. The smaller value refers to a round chimney, the larger one to a rectangular chimney with sides 1:2. for chimney square section – 10%

Russian oven

(diagram in Fig.) with regular intensive combustion gives an efficiency of up to 80%, has amazing decorative qualities, allows you to cook traditional dishes Russian cuisine, which you cannot prepare in any other way, and is necessarily supplied with a stove bench. But the design of the Russian stove is very conservative, only a stove-maker with extensive experience in working specifically with Russian stoves can make changes to it without risking ruining the stove.

From the point of view of structural mechanics, the Russian stove also stands apart. It is not a solid, working as one, module (hollow column, wall), but almost a complete analogue of the building: a coherent structure, the parts of which interact through corners. Therefore, the corners of the Russian stove must be laid out in accordance with all the rules. There is not enough reconciliation in order, you still need to constantly reconcile by plumb line. Key points the masonry of the Russian stove shows the following fig.

Preliminary calculation of the furnace

Before choosing a furnace project, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation for the room. Usually it is based on the heat transfer of the furnace in kcal / h. In the process of cooling the furnace, heat transfer decreases, but the heat loss from the room also decreases, because. it also cools down. The task of the calculation is to withstand the temperature in the room until the next firebox.

Such a calculation is theoretically complex, and requires a lot of experience using ready-made coefficients and simplified formulas. But for houses with good external insulation, quite reliable results are obtained by the method proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov for calculating the average heat output per unit surface of the furnace (TMEP). For a normal firebox, you can take it 0.5 kW / sq. m, and for remelting in severe frost - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m within 2 weeks.

With the use of TMEP, the estimating calculation of the furnace becomes quite simple. Let's say we have a stove 1.5x1.5 m in plan and 2.5 m high. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bits walls is 3.75x4 \u003d 15 square meters. m plus 2.25 sq. m overlap. Only 17.5 sq. m. This furnace will be able to give from 8.75 to 13.3 kW of heat. Taking into account the peculiarities of stove heating, this is enough for a house of 80-100 square meters. m.

Firebox

To calculate the furnace, you must first determine the maximum amount of fuel bookmarks. It is found by the required heat output, the calorific value of the fuel, its specific gravity and the estimated efficiency of the furnace. The calculation is carried out for all types of fuel for which the furnace is intended, and the largest value is chosen. The volume of the fuel chamber of the furnace (combustion chamber) is taken 2-3 times more than the maximum volume of the fuel mass, based on the overheating. In general, the maximum fuel loading into the combustion chamber is 2/3 of its volume.

A complete calculation of the furnace is the lot of non-lovers and not even any heating engineer. Let's take at least such a "trifle" as a grate. It will let too much air through - the fuel will burn out faster than the body of the furnace will take its heat, the rest will fly out into the pipe. There is little air - the fuel will not burn out completely, and the unreleased heat will again go into the pipe with smoke. And the soot, and the ash that clogs the grate? And all this needs to be linked with other, no less significant nodes of the furnace, and for different types of fuel.

Fortunately, now there are many ready-made stove inserts for sale for different thermal outputs, for different fuels, with a deaf or transparent, for fireplace stoves, created. And cost finished firebox Cheaper than any homemade one. It is only necessary when choosing to pay attention to the following:

1. The dimensions of the firebox and its fasteners (pins, whiskers) must be consistent with the dimensions of the brick. Kiln bricks are produced in several standard sizes (see below), and the same firebox can be sold in several modifications for different bricks.
2. For a long-term furnace, a cast iron furnace must be taken. Welded from a sheet - for furnaces used occasionally.
3. You also need to pay attention to the depth of the narrowing of the combustion chamber to the grate - an ash mine, an ash well or just an ash pan.

Let's clarify the last point. If the stove will be fired mainly with high-calorie low-ash fuel in large pieces (coal, peat briquettes), then the ash pan should be taken deeper, up to 1/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. In a small ash pan, such fuel will burn out too quickly. If the stove is for low-calorie wood fuel, including pellets, then the depth of the ash pan should be no more than 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber, otherwise the bottom of the fuel mass will quickly become clogged with ash, the air flow will be reduced, and the fuel will not burn out.

As you can see, the fork of the depth of the ash pan is large. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little and take a multi-fuel firebox. Such complete combustion all types of fuel listed in the certificate are ensured by special design measures.

Note: raw firewood can be completely burned in a deep ash pan, and coal can be burned on a flat hearth, by choosing the right amount of fuel. But this requires the experience of a stoker and intermediate stoking with chiselling, which is no good at night.

Chimney

The calculation of the chimney is a separate topic, perhaps more complicated than the calculation of the entire furnace. Even on a computer, you have to restart the CAD 2-3 times, manually correcting the original data, before everything fits together properly. But for normal conditions (rectangular cross-section, vertical stroke without kinks, the height of the mouth of the chimney above the grate is 4-12 m), you can immediately give ready-made transverse dimensions for furnaces of different capacities:

• Up to 3.50 kW - 140 × 140 mm.
• From 3.50 to 5.20 kW - 140 × 200 mm.
• 5.20-7.20 kW - 140 × 270 mm.
• 7.20-10.5 kW - 200x200 mm.
• 10.5-14 kW - 200X270 mm.

These values ​​are the minimum. They are designed to avoid "whistling" when cold air is counter-currently drawn into the oven through a chimney that is too wide. "Shistling" is fraught not only with heat loss, but also with a lot of other serious troubles.

If the stove in the chimney chosen “offhand” smokes at least occasionally, it needs to be increased, only by 0.25-0.5 m. than the chimney.

But the best way is not to be lazy and put another 2-4 rows of bricks, not forgetting to make a new fluff. Have you ever seen a pipe with two otters? This means that the initially short chimney, according to the results of the ducts, was increased to the norm.

Note: it is often necessary to build up a pipe when the aerodynamics of the terrain change. Let's say the forest around has grown or high-rise buildings have been set up.

Furnace materials and appliances

Brick

The sources are often confused with refractory fireclay. They have only dimensions in common: if a single building bricks they are 250x125x65 mm, then for stoves they are 230x114x40 mm (standard) or, sometimes, 230x114x65 mm. In general, the oven brick is a high-quality red M150. You can build a Dutch stove and a Russian stove from it entirely. In terms of heat resistance (up to 800 degrees), it would also go to the fireplace, but it absorbs little heat and cools quickly, so it will fit only for a fireplace summer cottage, the fire in which only admire.

Note: the dimensions of the oven bricks have developed historically in the old days, so that anyone can distinguish it from building bricks. The firing of bricks then cost a lot of labor and expense, there was no concrete, and deposits of good clay are rare. Therefore, the then wandering stove-makers often hacked, putting into action a weakly burnt brick from unimportant clay.

Chamotte brick is used for laying the furnace parts of furnaces with a rather intense thermal regime: Swedish, bath, bell-type. Its main advantage for household stoves is not heat resistance, 1600 degrees does not happen in home stoves. More important here is the high thermal conductivity of fireclay in combination with high heat capacity: fireclay masonry is an excellent heat accumulator.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to build a furnace entirely from fireclay: at first it will become unacceptably hot, and then it will give off heat too quickly by radiation. Outside, fireclay masonry should be lined with ceramic on all sides, at least half a brick.

It is not entirely correct to judge the quality of fireclay bricks only by the depth of its color. fireclay clay from different deposits is very different in appearance. An almost black brick can be bad, while a light yellow brick is excellent. main feature qualities - a fine-grained structure without many visible pores and inclusions (upper left in the figure; nearby - suspicious). The next step in the test is tapping with a light hammer. A good brick gives a sonorous or clear jerky sound, and a bad brick gives a deaf stretched sound. Finally, if the knock didn’t really clarify anything, they check for cleavage, or, speaking in modern terms, they conduct a crash test: a brick is broken or dropped from a height onto a hard floor. A good brick has good cleavage, it breaks into large pieces with a granular fracture. A bad one gives more dust and crumbs than large fragments.

The sides of fireclay bricks are called the same as building ones, this is also shown in fig. Like building fireclay, chamotte is used in full-length, in 3/4 lengths (three-fours), halves and quarters. How they are indicated on the masonry diagrams is shown in Fig. bottom left.

Clinker bricks, or simply clinker (on the right in the figure), are well suited for laying the internal critical parts of household stoves. This is the same ceramic brick fired at high temperature. His appearance is unsightly, but the strength and heat resistance are increased. Clinker costs a little more than ordinary red brick, but significantly cheaper than fireclay.

Note: silicate brick is absolutely unsuitable for any parts of furnaces. It does not adhere to clay mortar, but from alternating thermal loads it draws moisture into itself like a sponge.

Sand

Sand in mortar for masonry stoves requires special consideration. For a furnace designed for more than 10 years of regular use without repair, mountain sand without inclusions is needed. In other types, there is too much organic matter, due to which the masonry seams crumble and crack over time.

Clean mountain sand roads. But the main thing is that now there is generally an ideal replacement for it on sale: clay sand for ceramic masonry and fireclay sand for fireclay. Do not be surprised by the phrase "clay sand", it, like fireclay, ground battle of the corresponding type of brick. Brick sand most often turns out to be cheaper than good mountain sand, and masonry on mortar with it comes out of exceptional quality.

Masonry mortars

For laying brick ovens are used. There are a lot of recipes, we will give the simplest and most high-quality ones. Fireclay requires fireclay marl or white kaolin. For ceramic bricks - any refractory ground clay; best gray kaolin, blue or gray Cambrian. In both cases, 100 pcs. brick will need 40 kg of clay.

When buying, they immediately check the clay for smell: any clearly tangible, pleasant or unpleasant, indicates an admixture of organic matter, such clay is not suitable for laying a stove. Next, you need to determine the required proportion of sand in the solution, because. clay of different deposits of the same quality has different fat content - a combination of adhesive ability with viscosity. 0.5-1 kg of clay powder is taken for a sample, poured with water in a bowl to the top of the backfill and allowed to sour for a day, gain moisture. Fireclay marl completely turns sour in 1-2 hours, overexposure is not terrible.

Sour clay, adding a little water, is kneaded to the consistency of a very thick dough or plasticine. Then the batch is divided into 5 parts and sand is added to each: 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% by volume. All samples are thoroughly, until completely homogeneous, knead again and dry for 3-4 hours.

Now the samples are rolled into sausages with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm, at least 30 cm long. Each sausage is wrapped around any round object with a diameter of about 5 cm and the result is looked at:

1. The solution according to the sample, which has settled down absolutely without cracks, will fit for any furnace, including the fuel part.
2. The dried crust was torn, forming a network of small cracks - the solution is also suitable for all furnaces, incl. for the Russian furnace and the Dutch furnace.
3. Cracks went deep by 1-2 mm - the solution is suitable for parts of the oven heated no higher than 300 degrees, for a barbecue and a country fireplace.
4. Deep cracks, breaks, breaks - there is too much sand, the solution is not suitable.

The main point of testing for the proportion of sand is to reduce the cost of construction: brick sand is much cheaper than high-quality clay. Accordingly, the more it goes into solution, the cheaper it will be.

Note: this test is only suitable for mortar on brick sand. For solutions on natural sand, other samples are used.

The working solution is prepared according to the same principle as the sample, but already in the required volume:

• Clay is soaked for a day; fireclay marl - an hour.
• Knead the mass to the test.
• Pass through a 3x3 mm sieve.
• Add sand according to the test results.
• Adding a little water, knead until the density of sour cream.
• The fat content of the solution is already checked in the usual way, by wetting the trowel.
• If necessary, add clay or sand (very little!), knead and proceed to masonry.

Note: on average, 3-4 buckets of ready-made mortar come out of a sales package of clay.

Furnace appliances

Furnace appliances (doors, valves) are attached to the body of the furnace either with a mustache falling on the seams of the masonry (on the left in the figure), or with a heat-resistant steel skirt wrapped with a 5-mm asbestos cord before installation, on the right there. The former, of course, are cheaper, but fireboxes, ovens and flame dampers are not suitable for working: during the life of the furnace they have to be changed several times, and it is bad to break the masonry, tearing the mustache out of the seams. And, of course, the installation dimensions of the devices must be consistent with the dimensions of the bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

Laying and dressing

Brickwork is spoon and bonder, depending on which side of the brick looks out. Bricks are laid on the bed. "Bed" masonry, when a brick is placed on a poke or spoon, is extremely fragile and SNiP is prohibited, but in exceptional cases it is used for exterior finish unloaded structures.

The masonry is carried out with dressing of the seams, i.e. the seams of individual bricks must have a run-up (offset) in a row of masonry (in one or two directions horizontally) and between rows (vertically). In unbonded masonry, any microcrack that cannot be avoided will inevitably creep further, destroying the structure.

Dozens of methods for dressing seams are known only in construction, and in the furnace business they also have to be changed in order to lay out complex smoke passages. However, you can check the finished project of the furnace or developed it yourself, guided by fairly simple principles:

1. Masonry begins and ends with tychkovy rows.
2. Any brick must rest on at least 2 others.
3. Bricks of adjacent rows must overlap by at least 1/4 in length or width.
4. All vertical seams must be filled with mortar, otherwise the masonry will delaminate into vertical layers.
5. The vertical seams of the butt and spoon rows should not match.
6. Protruding thresholds, areas under beams and liners should be bonded.
7. Hewn parts of bricks should not protrude outward. The exception is bricks processed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

The normal width of the seam when laying the furnace is 3 mm, the minimum is 2 mm. Widening up to 5 mm is acceptable; on underfloor rows and in the vault - up to 13 mm. At the junction of fireclay and ceramic masonry and around inserts made of any other material (stove appliances, concrete beams, hob pins, etc.), masonry is carried out with a seam of maximum width - 5 mm. The grates are placed in a nest on the bottom of the firebox dry so that they can be removed for cleaning.

All rows of masonry must be tied vertically. In extensive interior spaces rows, incomplete dressing in a row is allowed (see fig.), or laying by backfilling, i.e. filling them with bricks without dressing. Dressing between similar rows (for example, underfire) is conveniently done using the mirror reflection method, similar to how fence posts are laid out, on the right in fig.

Convector and shield masonry

When laying convector partitions, it is necessary to leave bypass windows at the top (passes) and at the bottom (overflows). There are no problems with the passes - it is enough not to report 2-3 bricks, and that's it. But you can’t lay the flow like that, you get a hanging wall. Partitions over the overflows are laid out, as shown in Fig. Supports from pokes alternate after 3-5 rows. The windows of the spoon row near the pokes are covered with brick halves.

The walls of the furnace convector are laid out in its order, and the walls of the heating shield are laid out with spoons with a simple spoon dressing. Her schemes for walls in half a brick, in brick and one and a half bricks are shown on the next. rice. In the latter, dressing is used by the method of mirror reflection.

Vault masonry

In household stoves, semi-circular (in the form of part of a cylinder) and flat vaults are used, see fig. below. In the best Russian stoves, very experienced stove-makers sometimes, on special order, make the arch of the furnace an oval four-center one, and in Pompeii ovens the vault is domed, but both require high skill and experience. In a mechanically lightly loaded furnace semicircular vault, the extreme stones of the wings - the heels - and the central stone - the castle - do not differ from the others.

The semicircular vault is laid out in the following order:

• Prepare a drawing of the vault on a scale of 1: 1.
• Thrust bearings are hewn along it - bricks on which the wings of the vault will rest.
• Thrust bearings are placed on the solution and the laying of the furnace is interrupted until the solution is completely dry.
• According to the patterns - circles - lay out the wings of the vault, observing the dressing between the rows.
• The solution is abundantly applied to the groove of the lock and key stones are inserted into it in turn, hammering with a wooden sledgehammer or log. A sign of a properly executed masonry will be a uniform extrusion of the mortar from the seams on the wings.
• They wait for the complete drying of the solution in the vault, remove the circles, continue laying the furnace.

The vertical seams of the lock should not coincide with the seams on the wings. To do this, already at the drawing stage, the wings must be performed in a mirror image, and not by simply shifting one to the other side. The maximum angle of divergence of bricks in the vault is 17 degrees. With bricks of standard size, an internal joint of 2 mm and an external joint of 13 mm, this angle will be maintained.

A flat vault is laid out on a flat pallet instead of a circle of shaped bricks, ready-made purchased or self-made. The masonry technology is the same, but keep in mind that a flat vault does not tolerate the slightest asymmetry! Slightly shifted all to the side - it will collapse on its own. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen lay out a flat vault from shaped bricks according to a proprietary template pallet.

How many bricks do you need?

How many bricks do you need per oven? After all, the amount of mortar and, consequently, the main costs of construction are tied to it.

Once upon a time, the number of bricks was calculated according to empirical coefficients for typical projects. The method gave up to 15% of the fight (and theft), which is unacceptable at current prices.

Now furnaces are calculated in computer-aided design systems (CAD). The program immediately gives out how many full-length, longitudinal and shaped bricks are needed. But, since they don’t build a blast furnace or a kiln for a factory at home, and mastering CAD requires a lot of work, time and special knowledge, the do-it-yourselfer has no choice but to simply count the bricks in order of the kiln. It will take an hour and a half for an average brownie stove, but, counting carefully, you can reduce the fight to 2-3%

Note: a correctly completed furnace project must be accompanied by a specification indicating the number of bricks, other materials and a complete list of appliances indicating their type and variety.

Tool

Tool for kiln works in general, the same as for other masonry (see figure below): a pick hammer (butt) with a butt in the form of a wedge for splitting bricks, a trowel (trowel), cutting for convex and concave joints, a mortar shovel. But the order must be added. In this case, this is not a masonry scheme spaced apart in its rows, but a tool for checking its correctness.

The fact is that the laying of the furnace with seams uneven in thickness will soon crack from temperature deformations. On the other hand, masonry on clay dries for a long time, at least a week, and even dried seams can be soaked and an unsuccessful structure rebuilt.

The ordering tool (on the right in the figure) is a flat wooden lath 50x50 mm, on the sides of which the row numbers for different types of bricks are marked, taking into account the thickness of the seam. At least 4 orders are needed per oven, and one for each additional corner, internal or external. Use the order like this:

1. Underfloor rows are laid out in the formwork.
2. Orders are fixed in the corners, with 2 staples with pointed ends each. Staples are pressed into the seams of the masonry.
3. A mooring cord is moored to the orders, along which the laying is carried out. For a Russian stove, the corners are additionally verified with plumb lines.
4. As the layout progresses, the upper bracket, shaking, is removed from the seam and inserted into the next one.
5. The holes from the bracket in the previous seam are sealed with masonry mortar.

Working principles

In all ovens without exception mechanical connections are relatively weak and the loads are high. Therefore, "brick on brick - drive, grandma, mogorych!" is not clear here. The stove, which has not yet been brought to the ceiling, will most likely collapse, as described by Makarenko in the Pedagogical Poem. When laying the furnace, the following rules must be observed:

• Bricks are laid only one at a time. For beginners, it is advisable to lay out the next row on a dry one, level it, and only then put the stones on the mortar.
• Each brick is mop before laying (not to be confused with scraping!): carefully cleaned of crumbs and dust with a hair brush.
• A ceramic brick is dipped in clean water for a second or two and shaken well, then it will immediately stick to the mortar.
• Fireclay bricks are not "bathed" in any case!
• It is difficult to apply a layer of mortar exactly in 3 mm with a trowel, so experienced craftsmen apply the mortar by hand. But this also requires some skill.
• The brick is put in place with one movement, you can’t push and tap!
• If the stone does not immediately lie down as it should, it is removed, the mortar is cleaned from the brick and its bed and laid again.
• The removed solution is thrown away, it is no longer suitable for use!

Design examples

For example, consider a couple of structures with which you can start the transition from theory to practice. On fig. - scheme and ordering of the simplest brick oven: a cooking stove that does not require a foundation. It will take no more than 130 ordinary red bricks, given the battle at the hands of a novice master. In the descent from the pass of the gas channel to the exit to the chimney (marked in red in the figure), you can build in a U- or W-shaped DHW heat exchanger with a storage tank made of a metal water pipe.

Despite its simplicity and small size, the heat output of this stove is about 650 kcal / h, which allows flue gases to pass through a heating shield that heats 20-25 square meters. m. of living space. A hob of standard size 1 is laid freely on mustaches 2 of 3-4 mm steel, embedded in the seam between 11 and 12 rows of masonry. Its thickness is 6 mm.

On the trail. rice. - a small order with a single-burner hob. It is also made of simple red brick M150. Taking into account amateur combat, they will need 270-280 pieces.

The cast-iron stove lies freely on the mustache, as in the previous stove. You can remove it and insert a barbecue grill into its nest, or lay skewers with kebabs on the stove opening. With an open (or transparent) firebox door, the stove turns into a fireplace.

It is no longer possible to put this stove on the floor, it is too high and narrow. But on soils with sufficient bearing capacity (loam, sandy loam, forest land, etc. "country" soils), the foundation for it can be a solid slab on a sand and gravel cushion, as for a barbecue hearth.

Video: an example of laying a simple brick oven

The most important principle

Finally, let's give the most main principle construction of brick household stoves: the stove and the house are closely interconnected, they can be friends and feuds. It is very simple to reconcile the stove with the house: any of them will show all its advantages only in a solid, well-insulated house.

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove will help out, which even a "humanist" can fold.

The article considers two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who do not pretend at all to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. A simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating appliances - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove, you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flame.

The design occupies a little more than half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a powerful foundation - it is enough to put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of the option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they are not beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of furnaces. But it is necessary to observe the order - this will make the design as efficient as possible in the context of its potential.

What is required for work?

It is not only simple but also a budget option. To build a structure you will need:

• brick:
• * fireclay - 37 pcs.;
• * red - 60 pcs.;
• the door blew;
• firebox door;
• lattice;
• valve;
• cast iron hob.

As a binder - clay solution. In total, about 20-25 liters of the mixture will be needed.

It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.

Training

The first step is to determine the location of the furnace. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no restrictions inherent in traditional brick solutions. Having fixed strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can be played by non-combustible material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. Ordering kiln masonry

The furnace order is as follows:

1. The first row is laid on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly according to the level. The bricks are smeared with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord that compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
2. After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a blower.
3. Fireclay is used (in the diagram it differs yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
4. Prior to this, the brick was laid flat. On this row, it is placed on the edge. A smoke channel is formed, inside which the basis for the partition is made. One of the bricks (it can be seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - subsequently it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with strips of asbestos before installation. But you need to do this so that the door opens well up. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
5. The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
6. Again, the turn of the “ribs” is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
7. The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made, again using the "on edge" format.
8. This closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle hob- in case the stove is used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
9. The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. This ensures the sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. The cast-iron panel cannot be placed directly on the clay mortar, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to cracks.
10. At this stage, the formation of a chimney pipe starts. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
11. Here a valve is mounted, sealed with strips of asbestos. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated with clay mortar. This is the final row, which completes the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be joined to a lighter metal channel.

After that, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, they clean construction debris smoke duct and stove surface.

Final works

The simplest stove does not involve serious embellishments. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation yellow plaque and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then the stains will not get rid of.

It is necessary to grease the seams between brick and metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between ceramics and cast iron.

Be sure to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will prevent sand from getting into the room. It is desirable to cover the joint with a sheet l-shaped. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves both as a decor and as an additional element that prevents the “foundation” backfill from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning furnace

The oven is ready. The entire process took less than one business day. Already now you can try to make a low-powered . Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. Wood-fired kindling will create too high a temperature, and the structure will crack. For a full setting of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

It is interesting: ? Overview of 10 options.

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating design. This oven with your own hands can be laid out in just an hour, even if the hands are generally far from being called golden.

Figure 4 The simplest option brick ovens

The principle of operation of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, here it settles under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a thrust that carries hot air currents upward. At the same time, firewood burns almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you only need two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that it makes no sense to describe the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Ordering the simplest brick structure

If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. Bricks are recommended to be connected with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without a binder - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.
Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Scheme of a simple stove

According to this scheme, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed to load firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney channel. Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this design will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will obey the specialist in a matter of minutes.

Figure 1 - Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular option for heating private houses. Of course, there are now many variety of options heating, but still the stove remains a very popular option for heating the house, its individual rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a dryer, steam room in the bath, make a lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick ovens?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

1. This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying the stove, only building materials of natural origin are used; when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
2. After heating, the stove keeps heat for a long time.
3. It can harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.
4. It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating rooms, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and the healing properties of therapeutic sleep on the stove are generally known.

What should I pay attention to when choosing the parameters of the furnace and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element, with its help you can maintain comfort in the room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of the dimensions of the furnace and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the stove, the more heat it will give, and the longer it will cool down after the heating is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, which give off the maximum amount of heat, look towards these rooms. It is no secret that the sides of the oven emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the furnace in the room.

What kind of brick should be used in the construction of the furnace?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the furnace, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, in which the smoke temperature will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Red kiln ceramic brick. It has best performance. Furnace brick withstands high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick lays out the furnace part.
3. Chamotte brick. This brick lays out the inside of the combustion chamber. It withstands temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has a high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

It is impossible to lay out the furnace only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the furnace must be laid out with stove bricks.

What mortar is needed to bond bricks?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different types of bricks. The solution in different parts will also be different:

1. Cement-sand. Parts of the furnace, which are laid out with ordinary red brick, are placed on an ordinary mortar.
2. Mortar based on M400 cement. A mortar based on cement of this brand and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
3. clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
   Clay is a very important component of the solution. It is best to use a red oven. When frozen, it should not crumble and crumble.
   The solution should be of medium density - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold the oven with your own hands?

To do this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove-maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step by step instructions.

Stage 1 - Choosing a place for the furnace

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove is heated, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage, does not block the light. There should not be any furniture or combustible utensils near the stove, which can ignite when the stove is very hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: lay firewood, take out and throw away ashes, work on the stove, etc. Also, next to the stove, there should be a place for storing a small pile of firewood, so that at any time you can add a couple of poleshin to the fire.

Step 2 - Sizing the Furnace

Everything is simple here: the larger the oven, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room for a greater amount of time. However, such a stove needs to be heated up longer and more firewood is needed for heating.
A small one is faster to drown, but there will be less heat from it and it will be faster.

Stage 3 - Choosing a brick and its quantity

Next, you need to choose a brick from which the furnace will be laid out. It is best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during masonry.

Stage 4 - Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface, cover it with roofing material. If necessary, formwork can be made from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done in good faith.

Stage 5 - Laying the first row - the underfloor part

The first row is the base future design. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level, if necessary, we make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 - Installing the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which ash from the combustion chamber will pour. To fix the door, the hardened wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks on the mortar.

Stage 7 - Laying out the flame section

The fire chamber is laid out from heat-resistant furnace and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will fall down.

Stage 8 - Installing the combustion chamber door

Important milestone construction works. It is installed by analogy with the blower door. The furnace door must be securely fastened as much as possible, because. it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 - Laying the rows of the furnace part

Stage 10 - Installing the plate

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well smeared with mortar and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not go through the cracks into the room, and flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 - Laying the chimney

Different parts of the chimney that will be affected by different temperatures are again laid out with different types of bricks. In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the view and the chimney valve. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is on, the damper is extended and allows smoke to escape through the pipe to the street; when it is not in operation or the heating is completed, the damper is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 - Exit the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

1. Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
2. Metal.
3. Stainless steel.
4. Brick. The laying of the furnace continues after the chimney, which smoothly passes into the pipe and exits above the roof.
5. Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
6. Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and fixtures for work

To perform the work you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Pick.
3. Building level.
4. Owl shovel.
5. Plumb.
6. Putty knife.
7. Roulette.
8. Pliers.
9. Bulgarian.
10. Sieve.

Figure 11 - Tool required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and fixtures:

1. Brick (furnace, construction, fireclay).
2. Formwork boards.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Chimney damper.
5. Chimney flue.
6. Form for mixing the solution.
7. Blower door.
8. Furnace door.
9. Cement.
10. Mountain sand.
11. Red clay.
12. Water.

Conclusion

Laying the stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a place, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the furnace. It is necessary to choose the right dimensions of the stove based on the size of the room and the purpose of the stove, correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To lay the oven, you need to prepare different types bricks, knead a quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the furnace and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors work properly, whether the structure is hermetically folded, etc. In case of finding minor flaws, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the heating is completed and the furnace has cooled down.