How to make a summer shower in the country. Do-it-yourself summer shower for giving with your own hands - we do it without mistakes. Wooden shower cubicle

So, you decided to equip a wooden shower in the country with your own hands - where do you start? Of course, with the choice of location for the shower and design. The next step will be.

After that, they move on to building walls. When this stage is over, you can do the floor, roof and door installation. Well, now about each of these stages in more detail.

Choosing a place for a summer shower cabin made of wood with your own hands

Before you make a wooden shower with your own hands, you need to carefully choose a place for it. If the heating of the water in the shower tank will occur only from the sun, then the place for the country shower should be located only on the sunny side.

The water tank should be exposed to sunlight for as long as possible during the day, especially in the morning. In this case, the water will warm up to a comfortable temperature. It is desirable that the sun illuminates the shower stall. In addition, it should be located in such a way that it is not blown by the winds.

Also, before making a shower out of wood, the place where it will be built must be equipped with a water supply and drainage system.

For the normal operation of a summer shower, a high-quality outlet and quick disposal of waste water are necessary. When the garden shower is located on an elevated place, a good outflow of water is naturally ensured. In the heat, the load on the outdoor shower increases significantly.

It is necessary to take into account the possibility of not only supplying clean water, but also constructing a concreted receiving well for wastewater. To do this, equip a drain pit with a volume of about 2 m. If a summer shower requires a small flow of water, then you can not make a drainage system. Water after bathing will be absorbed by itself, even if there is waterproof clay in the area under the soil layer.

If the family consists of 2-3 people, then a few tens of liters of warm water will be enough to take a shower. For 4 people or more, the amount of water needed to shower increases to several hundred liters.

If you make a wooden shower with additional heating with your own hands, you need to place it away from the apartment building.

When installing, you should remember about the nature and properties of groundwater. If the garden has sandy soil, then in depth it is usually underlain by clay rock. Then the used water from the shower can easily seep into the soil to the clay layer, and through it it will fall into the aquifer or into the local reservoir. In this case, there is a danger of runoff entering the well water.

How to make a shower out of wood: design

Before you make a wooden shower, you need to draw up a project. To do this, you need to determine the size of the future design. For a good pressure of the jets, it is necessary to place a container with water at a height of 2.5 m. The convenience of the cabin is of great importance so that you can comfortably wash in the shower at any time. If the dimensions of the booth are at least 2 X 1.5 m, then inside it you can place a clothes hanger, a shelf for soap, etc.

When equipping a wooden summer shower with your own hands, remember that the dimensions of the internal space in the booth should be at least 100 x 100 cm so that you can freely raise your arms or bend down without bumping into the walls.

The cubicle must have a shower compartment and a water-proof dressing room, which is usually at least 60 cm wide, so the interior space for an outdoor shower cabin cannot be less than 160 X 100 cm. It is advisable to design a structure of 190 X 140 cm. To these parameters should be added more wall thickness, resulting in 200 X 150 cm.

How to make the foundation of a wooden shower for a summer residence with your own hands

To build a wooden summer shower with your own hands, you do not need a special foundation. The installation technology implies strict adherence to the strict verticality of the frame racks and a strong connection with the strapping. In this case, the supports should rest tightly on the linings. Compliance with these rules is mandatory, since a heavy water tank will be installed at the top. After determining the dimensions, it is necessary to make markings, marking a rectangle on the ground with dimensions of 170 X 110 cm or 190 x 140 cm. The height of a summer country shower can be 2.5-3 m. With a small support area, it will not be stable enough. To avoid tipping over the structure, it is recommended to equip a pile or. It is easy to build, but it will reliably hold the shower in the wind and other loads, since the 200 l water tank has a significant weight. As a material for the foundation, you can use metal poles, metal or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 90-100 mm and a length of 1.5-2 m. After that, four wells 1-1.5 m deep must be drilled in the ground at the corners of the shower. insert pipes or poles in such a way that each of them rises above the ground level by at least 30-50 cm.

The bandaging of the pillars during the construction of a wooden summer shower for a summer residence with your own hands can be done in the form of a closed strapping, starting from the top.

This foundation design is a rigid frame. It is more convenient to assemble it on the ground, and then fasten it with long bolts.

The strength of the structure is ensured by the coincidence of all axes. In addition, fastening must be done using long bolts. In this case, it will be possible to install a water barrel with a volume of about 200 liters on the roof of the shower. A shower cubicle is considered the most stable if there are six foundation pillars under it. Under the columnar foundation, six holes should be dug with dimensions of 20 X 20 or 30 X 30 cm and a depth of 40-50 cm. The dimensions and depth depend on the structure of the soil. Pits must be filled with cement-sand mortar mixed with pebbles or gravel.

The places for the shower frame are ready. The base of the do-it-yourself wooden shower frame for the cottage should be made waterproof, with a slope to the drain, which is connected to the used water drainage system. Between the pits, it is necessary to remove the upper layer of soil to a depth of 20 cm, and along the edges of the formed pit, it is necessary to strengthen the formwork from boards or plywood.

The recess under the shower can be covered with roofing material or PVC film, but it is better to concrete it, forming a kind of water-resistant tray so that the earth does not silt under the country shower. After that, the bottom of the pit must be covered with sand, spilled with water, tamped, and then poured with a solution so that the platform rises 10 cm above the ground and grabs places for the foundation.

From the pallet, which has a slight slope, the water will go into the gutter, so the slope must also have a drainage gutter. Drainage of water from the summer shower must be organized into a special gutter (septic tank) located on the site or outside it. Water should be discharged through a pipe laid in a trench with a certain slope towards the sewage pit.

Under a wooden shower with your own hands, you can arrange a strip foundation up to 30 cm deep without a monolithic concrete platform. In order to give the future structure the correct geometric shape, it is necessary to check the equality of the diagonals of the foundation using a rope or a thick fishing line. After that, you can proceed to digging a trench 30 cm X 30 cm. The foundation should be poured with a concrete solution prepared from 1 part of cement, 3 parts of clean sand and 5 parts of fine gravel (5-20 mm).

Before preparing the solution, the sand must be carefully sieved. The solution must be poured into the excavated trench. When it completely hardens, use the level to check the horizontalness of the foundation.

If there are any irregularities, they must be leveled using a cement-sand mortar. If constant use of the shower is expected, then under the foundation it is necessary to pour a concrete platform or lay it out of brick in the form of a rectangle. Concreting of the foundation site should be done with a slope towards the sewer pipe, and a wooden grate should be placed on top.

How to make the walls of a wooden shower cabin for a summer residence with your own hands

When building the walls of a wooden shower cabin with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that with high humidity, the wood can begin to rot, so it should be treated with special anti-rot agents. It also has a number of advantages: it is an environmentally friendly, outwardly attractive and fairly durable material.

If it is not possible to make the entire booth out of wood, then you can use wood to build load-bearing poles. The remaining parts will be easier to attach to wooden poles than to metal pipes. The erection of the walls of the shower cubicle should begin with a rigid frame.

For a slate frame, you will need four cast-iron pipes, but any other material available can be used. For pipes in a concrete or brick foundation, holes should be prepared, pipes inserted into them and concreted for strength. When the cement mortar is completely dry, you need to proceed to the installation of slate sheets. For such a booth, three sheets of slate are required. They should be attached on three sides directly to the prepared frame.

On the fourth side there will be a door. The frame for the cabin can be made of metal corners. Its two elements are the lower and upper "circles" made of metal corners. For them, you can use corners 30 x 30 mm.

The third element of the frame is the binding "circles": pieces of metal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm and the required length. For greater structural strength, the lower "circle" of the frame should be concreted into the base. It is recommended to supplement the vertical reinforcement with several wooden bars to make it easier to fasten the material used to cover the booth.

Do-it-yourself wood shower poles are best sheathed on both sides with wooden clapboard. Such walls will reliably protect the building not only from the cold, but also from the heat. Since the frame pillars are usually located at a distance of about 1 m, it is not necessary to erect an intermediate frame.

Horizontal strips can be fastened directly to corner posts. For these purposes, slate, sheet asbestos cement or other materials should be used. Plastic and metal are allowed, but not recommended.

For the device of the simplest version of the shower cabin of the summer shower, you will need boards and bars for the construction of the room, as well as brick and cement for laying the base.

After marking and preparing the base, the bars should be attached to the foundation with brackets and anchors, then sheathed with boards or clapboard. Along the perimeter, the bars must be tied in three places.

When building a shower cabin made of wood with your own hands, it is recommended to choose a beam of 100 x 100 mm for the frame.

After carrying out work on laying the foundation and external strapping, it is necessary to make a dressing inside the frame, which will serve as logs for the shower floor. Rigid elements (slopes) must be made between adjacent pillars, which must be installed in the thickness of the wall itself. Most often, the walls of a summer shower are arranged in the form of shields from quarter-planed boards.

The construction of a summer wooden shower must be approached thoroughly. To give the entire structure the necessary stability, it is required to concrete the bases of the beams or dig them into the ground. Before that, they should be tarred or smeared with machine oil. In addition, they can be wrapped with roofing material. This is done in order to prevent the wood from rotting in the ground. The support posts from above must be interconnected by dressing from the same beam. This will give strength to the entire structure, which can withstand weights up to 200 kg. After that, you can proceed to the lower dressing, which will become the basis for the shower floor.

The walls should be upholstered with wooden boards, having previously treated them with drying oil, which will prevent the wood from rotting. It is recommended to insulate the walls using foam plastic or one of the modern foamed PVC insulation.

In hot weather, a summer shower for a summer residence is not a luxury, but a necessary outbuilding. The shower makes it possible to freshen up, wash off the dirt after gardening. The presence of a shower on the site ensures a comfortable stay in the country, especially if there is no nearby reservoir suitable for swimming. When designing a country shower, its size, materials used and the place where you plan to build it are taken into account. The cabin should be quite spacious so that it can comfortably accommodate everything you need and move freely. A comfortable shower height is 2.5 m, the most common cabins are 190/140 mm and 160/100 mm. Want more details?!

For a garden summer shower, it is better to choose a sunny place away from other buildings. In the sun, the water heats up quickly, which is convenient if you plan to build an unheated shower. If the tank is painted black, the water will heat up faster. Consider also the fact that the water supply to the shower is convenient, preferably automated. Climbing up the ladder with a bucket of water to fill the tank is not the best way.

So, the place for the shower is chosen. Now you need to prepare the base - remove the top layer of soil, level the site and fill it with sand. To create the right base, markings are made using pegs hammered in the corners and a rope stretched over them.

A shower can be a lightweight structure, or it can be a permanent building. The type of foundation depends on the materials used. If the shower is brick, a concrete foundation is used, the depth of which must be at least 30 cm. Before proceeding with pouring, a place for pipes is prepared - you need to lay a log wrapped with roofing material. The base is poured with concrete using guides and a level so that it is even. When the base is ready, laying can be done. A brick shower will be more hygienic and aesthetic if it is tiled. But this is an expensive labor intensive option.

Option # 1 - a budget frame summer tarp shower

This option will allow you to build a summer country shower without resorting to high costs. After all, if you come to the dacha only in the summer, you can get by with a simplified version. For example, build a canvas shower using a metal frame.

A metal frame will require the most cost, but it will still cost much less than a brick. For the construction of a frame shower, you will need: a canvas sheet (3/5 m), a metal profile (18 m, 40/25 mm), a plastic shower tank, preferably black (volume 50-100 l), a shower head, a ½ and a tap with such a thread. Parts such as a watering can, nuts, squeegee, faucet, gaskets and washers are very popular materials, which is why they are often sold in one set, which is especially convenient.

It is not difficult to build a tarpaulin shower, it is convenient and functional, the tarpaulin can be removed for the winter, the frame can be covered with cellophane so that it does not rust

A similar design to this is a shower for giving from flat slate. It has exactly the same frame, but in this case the profile replaces the square (40/40 mm).

Water from the base in the shower should drain towards the drain pipe, and a shield (usually made of wood) is placed on top, on which a person stands and performs hygiene procedures.

If you don’t want to build a shower yourself, you can buy a ready-made one - for example, with a polycarbonate cabin, or completely open, and enjoy water treatments right in the garden

Advice. It is better to make a water drain with a waterproof layer - lay a PVC film, hydrostekloizol or roofing felt on an inclined embankment. The slope is made in such a way that the drain from the shower is directed towards the trench or drainage tank. Well, if the drain is ventilated, this dispels unpleasant odors.

The problem of water flow today can be successfully solved using a septic tank. When installing a septic tank, do not place it directly under the shower. In the summer, when large volumes of water are consumed, the septic tank may flood and the drainage work poorly, resulting in unpleasant odors. It is better to arrange a drain at a distance of several meters from the shower, place a septic tank nearby.

Advice. Plants that grow well in moist soil will be appropriate near the shower - they will perform a drainage function.

Option # 2 - solid construction on a pile foundation

With a fairly high height, the shower structure must have a stable base. To build a summer shower of a strong structure, you can make a pile foundation from pipes. Pipes should be 2 meters high (diameter 100 mm), holes of one and a half meters deep must be drilled in the ground under them. Above the soil level, the pipe should rise by about 30 cm. The dimensions of the beam for the frame are 100/100 mm.

In order to drill holes for supports, you can call a team that installs fences, the work will take about half an hour

On the ground, a rectangle is measured according to the size of the soul, foundation supports are installed in the corners. The next step is the installation of the beam and the bandaging of the pillars. It is convenient to assemble the frame on the ground and fasten the structure with long bolts. Then a dressing is done inside the frame structure - these will be the logs of the floor in the shower. Rigid elements are placed between adjacent pillars in the thickness of the wall.

The floor can be made with gaps between the boards to drain water. But sometimes you have to take a shower in cool weather, and blowing air into the cracks will not add comfort. You can also install a tray, the water from which will drain through a hose. More convenient would be a shower consisting of a dressing room and a bathing area, which can be separated by a bathtub curtain. At the same time, the locker room should be separated by a threshold to avoid water leakage.

As an outer upholstery, lining, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, and fiberboard are most often used. If all the buildings on the site are made in the same style, the shower should not differ too much from them.

If you expect to use the shower outside of the hot summer weather, it needs to be insulated. It is most convenient to use polystyrene foam for this. As an interior finish, waterproof materials should be used - plastic, PVC film, linoleum. The woodwork needs to be sanded and painted.

A water tank is installed on the roof of the structure. It can be connected to the water supply or filled with a pump. It is good to equip the barrel with a plumbing valve that will shut off the water when the container is full.

In order for the water in the tank to heat up better, you can make a frame for the tank that acts as a greenhouse. It is made according to the size of the container from a bar and covered with a film. In such a frame, the water in the barrel will remain warm even if the sun hides. The wind will also not cause a decrease in its temperature.

As they say, it's better to see once:

A selection of diagrams and examples of a shower device

The drawings of the summer shower below will help you choose the right size, choose the right material, visualize what kind of shower you want to see in your area.

Shower cladding options with different materials: boards, clapboard, moisture-resistant wooden panels, various types of tanks

There are simple devices that allow you to use the shower more comfortably: a - the float intake will take warm water from the top layer; b - a tap driven by a foot pedal (a fishing line from the pedal is thrown through the block, it is connected to the retractable spring and to the tap that opens at a right angle, which will save water); c - an improved scheme for connecting the heater to the water tank will allow the water to warm up and circulate evenly

Heated summer shower: 1 - tank, 2 - pipe, 3 - faucet for supplying water from the tank, 4, 5 - blowtorch, 6 - watering can, 7 - faucet for supplying water from a watering can

The choice of design, materials, work on the drawing are important points that should be paid attention to so that the process of creating a shower is continuous and error-free.

The owners of summer cottages are trying to bring water to the house and equip basic amenities. You can build a summer shower in the country with your own hands, both temporary and capital - the type of future structure is selected depending on individual needs.

Before you build a shower in the country with your own hands, you need to correctly design, determine the location of the future building, and select materials. The room should be not cramped, as comfortable and convenient as possible for use.

Location selection

In order to ensure a quick drain of water, it is best to install the shower on a flat or slightly elevated area. You should not choose a site located in a strong lowland or in a pit.

To avoid stagnant water, choose the right place for building a summer shower

Optimal for a country shower would be an open area, well lit by the sun, which is located at some distance from other buildings. In this case, the barrel will naturally heat up under the sun, providing a supply of warm water. This condition can be neglected only if it is planned to build a shower with heated water.

At the same time, the site where construction will be carried out should not be too far from home - after water procedures, it is desirable to get out of the shower into a warm room as soon as possible.

Size calculation

When building a country shower, the following parameters are used as standard:

1. height - 200–300 cm;
2. length - 190 cm;
3. width - 140 cm.

An example of drawing up a drawing of a summer shower

The indicated dimensions are very convenient in that, taking into account the thickness of the walls, the building will ultimately come out with an area of ​​​​200x150 cm - this is a completely waste-free option when using boards of standard sizes. As a result, 100x100 cm will be allocated for the shower stall, and 600x400 cm for the locker room.

Necessary tools and materials

You will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• corner;
• level;
• a hammer.

In addition, you need to stock up on nails and a skein of twine. Separately, you need to purchase a tank, as well as pipes, a couple of taps and a shower divider. Brick, iron or plastic sheets, wooden boards are suitable as building materials for building a cabin, and pipes are suitable for building a frame.

Tools needed for building a shower in the country

For the foundation pouring and the erection of brickwork, a certain amount of cement, sand and concrete will be required, and for the final finish - insulation materials, paint, plaster, hooks for clothes, shelves for bathroom accessories and other accessories.

Options for shower designs for summer cottages

The easiest option for giving is a compact portable shower, which is suitable for one-time water procedures, has a standard volume of 20 liters and is designed to supply water for 10 minutes. The principle of operation is reduced to filling the reservoir with water and subsequent heating in the sun, after which the portable shower is attached to a height of 2 meters and is ready for use.

Portable shower

An open shower also has a simple design, the installation process of which boils down to the following steps:

1. fastening to the wall of a branch of a water pipe;
2. connecting a pipe and a watering can with a hose;
3. fixing the watering can holder;
4. screen installation.

A common option for a summer cottage is the so-called change house with a shower, the design of which assumes the presence of a one-piece modular container or a frame-collapsible block.

Options for a stationary summer shower for a summer residence

The installation of this design is quite simple - the territory is marked, the upper ball of soil is removed and leveled, a cushion of sand and gravel is created, on top of which the boards are laid. On the soil prepared in this way, a block assembled on site or a ready-made structure is installed.

Of course, a stationary shower will become the most solid, but it will take more time and effort to build it.

Foundation preparation

It is much easier to build a frame structure than a capital building - depending on the type of structure chosen, the stages of preparing the site for construction will differ.

For a temporary structure, it is enough to simply remove 10-15 cm of the top layer of soil from the site to level it, and then fill it with sand.

For a country capital soul, a foundation will be required, the depth of which is determined by the materials used for its construction. For example, for a brick shower, a foundation will be quite enough, the depth of which will reach 30 cm.

Foundation for the construction of a capital summer shower

The foundation is laid in the following sequence:

• pegs are driven into the outer corners of the future soul;
• a cord is pulled around the perimeter;
• a place is being prepared for pipes (a log or a branch wrapped in roofing material is laid);
• concrete mortar is poured.

Advice! The formwork equipment will allow extending the period of operation of the shower - it is recommended to raise the level of the entire foundation by 10 cm, raising it above the ground with the help of boards reinforced with stakes and spacers.

Drainage pit equipment

The volume of the pit is usually more than 2 cubic meters. m, while its walls must be strengthened in order to avoid possible scree. The drain is located a few meters from the shower, but not under the structure itself and not at its walls - this will lead to the destruction of the foundation in the future, as well as to the appearance of unwanted odors.

An example of equipment for a drain pit for a summer shower

The drain must be laid with a waterproof layer - roofing material, hydrostekloizol, PVC film or concrete screed (reinforced with a metal mesh) are used.

Attention! A common mistake is to use clay as an insulating material, which erodes and soon clogs the drainage ditch.

Installation of a frame for a temporary shower stall

If brickwork is performed for a capital structure, then a frame is usually installed for a temporary one: metal or wooden. In the latter case, the tree should be treated with special impregnations that will protect it from insects and moisture, preventing the formation of fungus and mold.

Wooden frame for summer shower

1. Marking is done - a rectangle is indicated right on the ground, the sides of which correspond to the dimensions of the future country shower.
2. Wooden bars are installed, the width of which reaches up to 10 cm.
3. Ligation is performed - starting from the top, the structure is securely fastened with bolts, after which the beams-basis of the shower walls are connected.
4. Walls are equipped, for the construction of which you can use both boards and slate or plastic panels.
5. Piping is in progress - the plumbing is installed so that the outlet of the pipe under the shower hose is higher than the level of the head (this will provide the necessary pressure for the movement of water). For runoff, a conclusion is made to a sump or to a specially equipped septic tank.
6. A tank is installed - a tap is made with a thread, a tap with an appropriate nozzle is placed, after which the barrel rises and is fixed.

As a tank for a country shower, a plastic container, which can be purchased at a specialized store, or another barrel available on the farm, is suitable. It is desirable that it be flat and proportionate to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, so that the weight is evenly distributed on the supporting structure. Its volume is selected at the rate of 40 liters per family member, but the barrel should not be too heavy - its maximum volume is not more than 200 liters!

solar water heating tank

Advice! So that the owner of the cottage does not have to carry water into the tank on his own every time, you can equip it with automatic filling.

Country shower lighting and ventilation

When doing the wiring yourself, it is important to follow all the rules of electrical installation and adhere to safety precautions. Separately, due to high humidity, care should be taken to insulate the wiring.

Ventilation window for summer shower

The interior shower finish should be made of moisture-resistant materials: plastic panels, pieces of linoleum, oilcloth, etc. If wood is used, then each individual board is covered with hot drying oil.

The concrete floor is usually covered with gratings made of plastic or wood, rubber mats are laid on top. It is quite convenient to equip a small locker room directly in the shower room. In order to prevent water from getting into it, the floors in it rise slightly by a couple of centimeters - this is easy to achieve by additionally placing a pallet.

Summer shower interior

As for the exterior finish, similar materials that have already been used to decorate the country house and other buildings on the site will look harmonious.

To use the shower not only in the summer, but also in the colder season, it is recommended to insulate it with polystyrene foam, which fits into the interior and is upholstered with PVC film on top. The walls are usually painted or plastered, sheathed with clapboard or siding.

How to build a summer shower in the country: video

Types of summer shower: photo

Many people in the summer prefer to leave stuffy city apartments and spend time in suburban areas. However, the absence of such a blessing of civilization as a shower can significantly spoil the impression of even the best outdoor recreation. The solution to this problem is an outdoor shower, the construction of which is devoted to this article.

General information

It is not difficult to build a summer shower on your own, and it does not even need to spend a lot of time on it.

All you need is:

• Prepare a tank of suitable volume;
• Make a frame for a future shower stall;
• Sheathe the frame with any sheet material.

The main part of the work is the manufacture of the frame. If you know how to work with a welding machine, then the best option would be a frame made of profile pipes. This material is inexpensive, strong and quite durable.

Advice! If it is not possible to make a shower out of pipes, you can use a wooden beam for this purpose, pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Below we will consider how to build a summer shower from pipes.

Construction features

materials

So, to build a summer shower from a profile pipe, you need to prepare the following materials:

Location selection

Before proceeding with the construction, you need to decide where the country shower from the profile pipe will be located.

The following requirements are imposed on the place for future construction:

• It is desirable that the shower is located on a hill, which will improve the outflow of water.. If there is no such place on the site, it is necessary to dig a drain hole.
• The place should not be shaded, which will allow the water to quickly heat up in the sun.
• If there is a well on the site, the distance from it to the future shower should be at least 8 meters. In addition, the shower should be located at a sufficient distance from the foundation of the house.

Project preparation

Any construction, as you know, begins with the preparation of a project, and the construction of a summer shower is no exception. At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the size of the future structure and its design.

Most often, summer showers have the following dimensions:

• Height - 2 -2.5 m.
• Length and width - 1.5 m.

Of course, you can change the dimensions if you wish. For example, many increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building and equip it with a locker room. The latter can be fenced off from the shower with a curtain or partition.

Preparation of the base and drain pit

Do-it-yourself construction should begin with the preparation of a drain pit and foundation. The size of the pit depends on the number of people living. The pit should be located close to the booth itself, for example, behind it.

The bottom of the pit is necessarily covered with sand and gravel, and the walls are laid out with stone or brick. When the pit is ready, you need to make a base with a drain.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• First of all, you need to prepare the site - remove debris and grass.
• Then it is laid so that it enters the pit at an angle. Drain is best placed in the center of the shower.
• Next, you need to mark out the future site and make formwork from boards or other material along the contour.
• After that, the bottom of the formwork must be covered with a layer of rubble and rammed.
• Then supports are installed at the corners of the formwork. To do this, the pipes need to be hammered 20-30 centimeters into the ground. Racks can be located vertically or at a certain angle, as shown in the diagram.
• After installing the racks, a metal reinforcing mesh should be laid, which should rise slightly above the surface of the rubble.
• At the end of the work, you need to pour the formwork with concrete.

Frame manufacturing

When the concrete hardens, you can make a frame for a summer shower from a profile pipe. Since the concrete screed will not be subjected to heavy loads during operation, it is not necessary to wait 28 days for the concrete to gain brand strength.

The manufacture of the frame follows from the execution of the frame for the tank. To do this, you need to connect the racks around the perimeter, as well as diagonally. Then the racks must be connected with crossbars located on three sides, which will add rigidity to the structure.

On this, the frame for the shower from the profile pipe is ready, now you can proceed to its arrangement and sheathing.

Shower arrangement

The arrangement of the shower begins with the installation of the tank. It is desirable that the container is flat and wide. In specialized stores, you can purchase a special tank for a summer shower with installed fittings.

If the container has sufficient surface area, it can serve as a cabin roof.

Otherwise, you will first need to lay the roofing material.

• In one of the walls of the tank, which will be facing the booth, a fitting should be inserted.
• After installing the tank on the roof, a ball valve and a shower head are attached to the fitting. The water supply is regulated by a ball valve.

Advice! To make the water heat up faster, the tank should be painted black.

As Ostap Bender would say, a dacha shower is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a remedy of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off bathing after a weekend at the dacha until they arrive home go to the doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; data of a similar nature are not available for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower room, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent an amount that is 2-3 times less, or even completely from improvised materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slimy konurka, the dream of a greedy dermatologist (there will be many patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the view of the building site to structures from, for example, construction waste, at the sight of which the experienced designer nods his head knowingly, see fig.

But, which is typical, there is no medical correlation with the type of shower - purchased, of different price categories, or home-made. A “super-duper firm” for 70-100 “sput”, with automation and touch-remote control, can turn out to be a hotbed of infection, and a shower concocted from a kondachka in the country will faithfully guard the cleanliness and health of the owners for many years and decades.

Do-it-yourselfers with manufacturers are not to blame here; and that, and others efforts, skills and considerations do not occupy. It's simple - no one really knows how to do it, a country shower. If there are any regulatory rules for its construction, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that you need to do a country shower correctly in essence, i.e. so that it does not infect, but does not infect, and so that the contents of wastewater do not kill the earth and spoil the crop, but how? It's dark here, like in Khrushchev's bathroom, when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is supposed to be 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard volume of flow, and in the country it is many times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry closets) allow you to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the toilet, but the processes in the cesspool do not fundamentally change. What volume and design do you need a cesspool for an outdoor shower? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other components and structural elements. In fact, those who want to make a country shower competently are pulled according to the norm from there, then from there, and there - maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they will disperse, and the byaka will come out.

Well, let's try to include what mother nature of the American president has yet to deprive a little, to say at the end: "Well, at least I've found a good ideal!". We will design a summer shower for ourselves, based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself nor the water for it should harm those washing, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - the drain from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near (in the form of compliance of the crop from the site with sanitary standards) or in the far (in the form of water quality from local water sources) perspective, in space and time.
• Practicality, it is also functionality - it should not only be possible, but it should be pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the country.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil the landscape design of the site, but, preferably, organically fit into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not conspicuous.
• Profitability - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, without prejudice to any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing norms and rules, but for verification, so as not to fantasize nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. The data in the regulatory documents is the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single code for country showers, you will have to turn to the basics. To properly build a shower, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle, then it will be easier. Realistically, in this order:

1. Base.
2. Stock and cesspool.
3. Design choice.
4. The possibility of combining functions (shower, combined with a toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
8. Additional equipment - water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. When it is violated, the case no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of such things as pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just hot or warm water.

Let's say it's +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: there will be only sense from warming (may the readers forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washing room. Without them, you will have to tremble and shiver for 2-5 minutes until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats up the cabin. In the meantime, hot water may also run out, the tank is not a vat.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. How to achieve this, we'll see when it comes to additional equipment; for now, as they say, we will tie a knot.

child question

Why is the shower separate? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewage. Here it is appropriate to recall the rule: the cesspool should be at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in miasma, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash away the foundation of the house with all that it implies. It is still possible to arrange a shower in a country house. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-weather.

Note: a bioseptic tank, which almost does not give harmful fumes, under certain conditions can be moved closer to the house by 4-5 m. But this topic already applies to the arrangement of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of country-shower work is eliminated in the following cases, see fig. below:

• When a compact portable shower is used, on the left in fig.
• If the shower with adjacent outbuildings are ready-made modular, in the center in fig.
• If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft skin, on the right there.

A compact shower in a suitcase (on sale - a large selection) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of water heating; it is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. To this, a soul and a cesspool are not needed - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and no matter how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley discharge.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are supplied with adjustable legs, which, when installed permanently, allows compensating for current soil movements. Modular common areas are more familiar to citizens from public dry closets, but besides them and modular showers, kitchens, shelters, etc. are also produced, so that a full-fledged utility block can be assembled from the modules. Pleasure is by no means cheap, more modules are used to organize the amenities of professional mobile teams. A cesspool is not required, you only need to change the filler of the built-in septic tank in a timely manner.

Frames of soft showers are put on stakes driven into the ground from reinforcing bars. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but by self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because. the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. Sheathing is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat then the cabin is not so parky, in the cool it is warmer, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick nasty to a wet body. Such a design will withstand a 12-point earthquake, if only the earth itself from under the shower does not go anywhere. A cesspool is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and more attractive on it.

Under plastic

It is possible to build a shower cabin from light, resilient and chemically resistant materials with rigid sheathing (see below) without a foundation, even on very heaving soil. So that it does not overturn, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-porous pillow is enough. Specifically - sand and gravel bedding in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages on meter-long black soil are not distinguished, so you won’t have to dig very deep, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after the winter, it still warps, you can move the booth, align the pillow, and put it back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes put on fittings driven into the ground, like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, then the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the bottom of the pillow, and it is better, if local conditions allow, to the freezing depth, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood, in principle, can also be placed simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the support frame and floor from decay for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can hold strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi with bacteria will get to where they stand and rub against bodies much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower room

The means to ensure these requirements has long been known - a columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and freely "acting out" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. There is no need to buy expensive ones, it is better to get by with homemade hammers. Simply - with pipe segments with a diameter of 60-150 mm (if available) with ends flattened into a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a home-made woman (it is much easier to work with her), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

Location of piles - 1 per corner and every full or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After cutting the protruding ends with a grinder at the hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; they are dressed and attracted by nuts with washers 40-60 mm in diameter, the lower support frame - the grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drilled piles from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells go to the same freezing depth with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle for it, with which wells are drilled under a strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcing piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to this case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height with a grinder with a stone circle before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are immured to a depth of 120 mm.

Under the metal

Under the shower on a metal frame, the foundation is made the same as under a wooden one: if the wood rots, then the metal rusts. In this case, piles are preferably driven metal, and a grillage from a channel of 50-80 mm is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in the country is a rarity, laborious and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it. It is enough to pass the return flow from the tank to the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator (see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30 mm packaging foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and a ceiling height of 2.2 m with +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, heavy, and therefore the foundation for a brick shower needs to be strong and stable. Since the structure in this case is small, the slab monolithic foundation turns out to be optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. Its device is simple: a solid (necessarily!) Reinforced concrete slab 170-300 mm thick is placed on the non-porous pillow described above and with a 0.3-0.5 m extension beyond the building contour, this will be a blind area.

The brand of concrete does not matter much, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If it is planned to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to pour the slab on the spot, encircling the recess under the barrel with formwork.

cesspool

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the sewage pit necessary for the disposal of effluents to a naturally recyclable level of pollution, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. For example, in the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks, it is clearly indicated: do not fill it, it will turn sour and stink. Do not let it dry out, the microflora will die, and generally stop working.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool in the country is obvious. But its chemical composition also matters: there is practically no household organic matter, a nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Polygraph Polygraphych Sharikov from "Heart of a Dog" uses the toilet. But in excess of alkalis (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc., which are harmful to them.

Therefore, to reduce drains from the shower and toilet in the country to a common pit is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry. The kitchen can still be combined with the toilet, but the shower must be taken separately to a special pit. In a city apartment, the matter is different: there, until the effluents reach the treatment facilities, everything will mix up and react so much that only the percentage composition for simple compounds and elements will matter. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewerage system separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: what kind of abominations do researchers not sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it's something necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: so what, take out the extra 2 cubes of soil? Since the septic tank does not recycle the shower drain? And the weaving of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, consumer supervision will screech with a screech when the analysis is done.

It is not at all necessary, given the time of heating the water, the maximum frequency of using a country shower resulting from it and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time flow). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to bring the runoff into the soil little by little, so that organic acids from the soil have time to neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil microanimal. And organic acids, a product of her vital activity, will seep from above.

Calculations, for a description of which, unfortunately, there is no space here, show that a drain of 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this, as they say, is above the roof), must be discharged into the ground at a depth of at least in 2 thicknesses of the humus layer. Conclusion: an ordinary 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will do, as long as its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (we take the tank capacity for it), and the height is at least 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the shell of the pit can be made from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour bleach into the pit, in the resulting side cavities, with frequent use, the wastewater will stagnate.

From theory to practice

It is not difficult to arrange a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel. First, we dig a pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, and we cut off a segment from the cover to make an inspection hatch; it needs a tight lid.

We install the barrel in the pit, backfill the soil. Next is the filter. We pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, we shake 1-1.5 kg of any clay to “milk”, and pour the filling evenly with a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water leaves and the clay dries up, we stir up the filtering layer, often piercing it thickly with a pointed armature. It remains to weld the lid, and after the construction of the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, it is more similar in bio- and simple chemistry to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: if construction is underway nearby, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous batch are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

The smell from such a cesspool is excluded constructively. It is convenient to inspect and, suddenly, need to clean it, and the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; useful area, except for the one under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the dacha of the author of the article, a shower cesspool from a barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. I didn’t need to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was overgrown with a dense layer of some chemical compounds, but it did not rust through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitation station, which invariably showed their full suitability for food. For the test, they scored a well for water 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower with toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the dacha is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention an antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool at all by arranging a powder closet. More precisely, powder sorter, because. it's a french idea. Sortie in French way out; toilet, respectively - a latrine. Powder-closet can be used only in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to arrange a shower area, and in what cases we can do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower will we do? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in the shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact is not compact

A portable shower does not have to be carried everywhere with you. No one bothers to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers to fill the wineskin with hot water, heated on a fire or in a stove, immediately before washing. The only thing that is required additionally is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold, complete with the actual shower or as an option. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - a shower enclosure is easier to make yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see Fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe, you can get by with propylene plumbing, put on all the same pins from reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew a curtain from a colored tarpaulin (preferably also propylene); why - said above.

Cabin on the street

Users of "stationary" showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin for water needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters is not enough for one person, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower, and there is a drain problem. Usually it is solved by lowering water down a slope or a gutter into a flower bed, on the basis that the flowers are not eaten. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this is, of course, wrong. And the earth, if the shower is often used, can turn sour, and then the whole flower bed will disappear. It’s better to choose the time, on the lower edge of the sewer slope (usually the blind area of ​​​​the house) to mold a catcher from cement, and bury a 40-mm PVC sewer pipe into the ground to the sewer pit. For the one described above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If you want to quickly and easily replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with rigid sheathing is made from a booth with a curtain is schematically shown in fig. Within the simplified blind area of ​​the building, only 60 cm wide, it turns out to be quite comfortable (passages 45 cm each, a semicircular washing room in terms of 60x120 cm) and a completely unpeepable booth. The material of the cladding and fences is any, sufficiently rigid and allowing some bending. Polycarbonate is best; it will be discussed further. In this case, the fence of the labyrinthine entrance can be bent, getting a completely elegant extension.

shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with a soft opaque lining, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is put in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will fully tolerate the increased flow.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on a foundation; it, as we will see below, may not be. There must be a dressing room in the capital shower room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, when washing, it is not necessary to demonstrate models of swimsuits, coupled with graceful forms or a relief torso, as shown in advertising shots.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and scars of clothing. Having become sour, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where they are least wanted. According to the rules of field work in countries that make extensive use of seasonal migrant agricultural workers, i.e. unaccustomed to dig in the ground, after the shift, having washed, it is imperative to wear clean underwear. Outerwear can be left working, but underwear - only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not yet dirt, and then it falls off on its own.

How a shower with a dressing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. A curtain protects clothes from splashes, and a lattice, wooden or made of propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, protects shoes from getting wet, see below. The curtain in this case is more suitable from the film - a tarpaulin that is not blown by the breeze will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, then it may soak.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that, bending over the dropped soap, not kicking the door and not breaking the walls with the fifth point, the dimensions of the washing room in terms of plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be a large side.

All in one

The change house in the country does not play the same role as at the construction site and field work. In any case, the cesspool should be carried away from housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And to have a meal, since you have already fled from the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and useful in the free air. Therefore, a kitchen with a veranda is often included in the composition of a country change house, along with a shower and a toilet.

The limiting, if I may say so, schemes for the arrangement of summer cottages are shown in fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet - powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - from aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is flat sloping slate. As a refuge, if there are a lot of people, a large shower room can also be used; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or put a wood-burning stove. It is built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of an assistant, over the weekend, except for the technological break for the curing of concrete and the time for finishing work.

Note joke: do not rush to build this, otherwise who knows when hands will reach a real house.

In the house

A country shower in a house, since it is in a residential area, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some features in relation to the cottage will be discussed later in the course of the presentation.

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too laborious and expensive. In a cabin with dimensions up to 1.5x1.5 m, if a tongue-and-groove board is taken for flooring, logs are not needed. If the cabin is not square, the deck boards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. In our time, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with oil zinc or titanium white, etc. The preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for further processing in the evening if processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the morning of the next day.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. It is only necessary to read on the package whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure, this is not suitable. It is desirable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

After 3-4 hours after impregnation, acrylic varnish can be applied in 2 layers. The first will dry up in the evening, then you can varnish again. The next morning the floor can be laid. So, if you pick a nice day, a floor that lasts at least 10 years can be done in a weekend, and there's still time left.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you don't already know it, are low and high. The first fit into a cutout or recess in the floor, and the second is actually a standing bath: they are installed on legs and are equipped with a screen. Those and others come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm, straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Manufactured from acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the second is cheaper.

For a cottage with a separate shower on the territory, a straight low shower tray is needed, see the figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Ease of installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and immediately, until it has hardened, a pallet is laid; squeezed out excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and work: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the width of the inside to the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to upholster the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in a hole.
• Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Durability in suburban conditions: acrylic pallets in summer cottages do not withstand the estimated service life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear with sand, from which you can’t get anywhere outside the city.

Note: if the shower is with a dressing room, you can take a pallet 800x1000, see above. If in the country there are people with a corpulence above average, then the best would be a pallet 1200x1200

The country shower room in the house requires an already high pallet. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the full pattern. Yes, and then the mortising and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus beat the channel for the sewer. Suddenly, the house has not yet been built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the lag installation step turns out to be too large for flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes up much less usable space in a small room and is even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for the installation, it is desirable to do it yourself. Firstly, the departure of the master out of town will be too expensive, his day disappears, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and runoff in the country are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the intricacies of precisely the corners:

In addition, before buying, you will need to familiarize yourself with the company instructions, because. installation methods for showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under your feet is a must so that your shoes do not get wet. In a washing room with a low tray, a grate above it is also highly desirable, because. due to the lack of a threshold, the risk of slipping and crashing when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to 100x40 boards. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but instead of varnishing, if funds allow, it is desirable to cover the grate with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear by shoe soles will increase significantly. Yes, and for the floor, coating with a compound will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, the thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the price of varnish, then a cheaper grill is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes are needed 1/2 "; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The pitch of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grate, a little mounting foam is launched into all the gaping ends so that the grate inside does not sour from dampness.

Tank

The shower tank in the country house must be equipped with a sanitary drain with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least for a week), the tank is completely emptied through the drain. It is advisable to regularly, with the same frequency, drain the sludge and with constant use. Please note that in the country the probability of getting spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms into the tank is many times higher - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author knows the case when in the shower tank were found ... crucian piglets. They apparently fed on the larvae of mosquitoes, which swarmed there.

The second condition is that the selective pipe must be placed higher so that clean water splashes from the watering can, and not sediment. Finally, if there is water heating in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go to waste. That is, the hot water inlet should be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from the water supply, then it needs a float valve and an overflow with a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bat least 2 of those of the supply pipe. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, without locking the water supply to the end. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in fig.

For a tank filled manually, the layout of the pipes changes, because. the water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the hot water supply should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the source of selection, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be moved away from the source of the outlet; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

What is he from?

Ready-made tanks for showers of different sizes, containers fully equipped with fittings, are commercially available in a wide range. But, since our task is to implement everything entirely with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks of country showers are made from barrels laid on their side; then it is convenient to place a drainage system, and the flow of water into the sludge becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out in a 200-liter steel barrel and through it, after welding the pipes, the container is painted from the inside with yacht acrylic enamel or the same bath repair compound. An outdated long way - primed with a rust primer and painted with iron minium in oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but the problem of sealing the joints arises: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and it is impossible to connect by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic barrels are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install M12-M16 threaded fittings with a flange and a rubber gasket, and outside - also with a gasket and a washer; everything is tightened with a nut. So that the pipe does not turn out with thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for season 2-3 the joints leak.

About the tank from the old washer

It's no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washings hastily, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the input-output of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners. By covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we get effective solar water heating (see below), because, repeatedly reflecting from the internal shiny walls, the solar radiation is almost completely absorbed by water.

Cabin

Grillage

The cabin support frame is most often made of wood; in the conditions of suburban operation, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but it will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, a 100x100 or even 60x60 timber is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is impregnated twice or thrice with heated bituminous mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will provide a durability of at least 12 years; WPE, penetrating deeply into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet tub, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet, this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. need 2-3 more steps at the entrance.

frame

A wooden shower is assembled, as well as - on load-bearing poles, only the problems of the roof disappear: it either does not exist at all, or it is simply sloping. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or its own, spread in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cab.

A professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2 usually goes to the metal frame. The profile frame is assembled by welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but they do not last long, this material is not intended for outdoor use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2″ and 3/4″ polypropylene water pipes. The assembly scheme is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. Soldering plastic in this case is not required, it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe enters them more tightly, and assemble it on self-tapping screws. In the shower, phosphated (black) ones hold better. Self-tapping screws diameter - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not protrude and scratch.

sheathing

In general, any sheet finishing materials for outdoor use are suitable for sheathing a shower: corrugated board, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, the top row in rice; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Of all the sheathing materials, polycarbonate stands out. Its main advantage is a self-heating shower made of polycarbonate. Features of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap at the bottom. Cellular polycarbonate was originally developed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of ​​its glazing is large relative to the volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of the 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for shower sheathing. You should not be afraid of peeping: especially for showers, milky, non-translucent, polycarbonate is produced.

The second important factor is that a honeycomb sheet, if it is oriented vertically with internal channels and bent, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PNC): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very strong and light round cabin can be made on a frame from only 2 hoops, upper and lower, bent from PP pipe. The hoops will also be prestressed and add a lot of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly winding the sheet to the curvilinear template and heating for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular also for original frameless showers, see fig. on right.

It is widely used for showers and the good old wood, pre-treated, as well as for the floor, and even raw, at least in the form of wattle, the bottom row in fig. above. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - wood holds heat well. Heat loss through wooden sheathing from a forty board is less than through a half-brick brick.

Note: it is undesirable to use laminated and modified wood materials for sheathing showers - plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - they delaminate.

fittings

A garden shower is distinguished from an ordinary shower by a shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes a control valve, see fig. If there is hot water separately in the country house, then this one is not suitable - diffusers with a regular two-way valve are not on sale. However, it is easy to make a watering can with a valve yourself, it does not have any fundamental features. Other shut-off valves - any ordinary one, but pipelines are easier and cheaper to make flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now let's finally figure out what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, heating the washing room will ensure that the return flow from the tank to the water heater passes through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of residential premises, this scheme is utter heresy, but in the soul it is quite efficient without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a low-power flow gas boiler or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. We will leave one and the other, because. it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside of industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only a base, automatic temperature control is also needed, emergency from boiling up, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to scale buildup or sedimentation, and some other necessary little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, than from time immemorial and used by summer residents, is to heat water with the Sun. But the well-known bitumen-drenched tank is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 ways of primitive solar water heating are shown in fig. on right. The first one (left pos.) uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV). The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, on the right pos. the own heat capacity of the hose is used: when the water flows, it gives it the accumulated heat, so it is possible to get more warm water than it was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and season: clouds have come running - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. For good water heating not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a shower water heater must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively large. An indispensable condition in order to “sew” these requirements is thermosyphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is a second matter.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with an inclination, in the middle there; then the hot side must be raised above the cold side by at least the value of the internal diameter of the tube, otherwise internal convection may develop, boiling up and bursting even with a relatively small influx of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to have a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of "theromosiphonism" is observed here by the fact that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible above the cold one. In this case, sealing is needed complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The hot water register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a question of how the stoves are arranged, and by and large, where the hot water goes then, the stove doesn’t care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for a shower. In our latitudes for cooking, it is not very suitable, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see Fig.) In the spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the next. rice. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors only the visible part. For IR, clouds are much more transparent, while UV carries a lot of energy even in small quantities.

The scheme of a stationary solar oven is more complicated, but much more efficient, is shown in the following. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (you can cut off) galvanized on silicone. Fragments of the reflector are installed one by one, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this furnace and the heat exchanger described before it, a compact one is required; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not that complicated and do not require any alignment. These are, in fact, blackened from the inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in fig. Modern solar panels use truly space technologies, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at -20 outside give water to the system at a temperature of +70.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most unpretentious design, like those shown on the trail, will also cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in fig. below (on the top position - with an installation diagram and a use case for heating a house) - drawings of home-made solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; the heat exchanger is soldered from a copper tube. In the one below, a radiator from an old unusable refrigerator went to him; the dimensions of the box are adjusted to the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen in the country is gasified, anyway, from a mains or a cylinder, then you can heat water for a shower for nothing at any time of the year, in any weather, day or night. How? Due to waste heat (in essence, own heat loss) of a gas stove. To do this, the burners are circled with a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube, as shown in Fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's times, when the people heard that somewhere up there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to withstand other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else needs to be remembered is that the slope of the hot pipe should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats up well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn gas idly, you need to heat water during cooking. As a rule, in an hour of cooking dinner, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, let's mention one curiosity - a supposedly hydromassage shower. On fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations are produced with 6 and even 10 diffusers, loudly referred to as nozzles in advertising brochures.

Such scents are only a tribute to fashion, if not inventions of marketers of the consumer society; simply a split. For a real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone in conditions of hydroweightlessness, which cannot be without a bath with water.