Yellow plaque on the ground in a pot. Why does a white coating appear on the ground in a greenhouse, and how to get rid of it? Mold - what is it

Growing cacti, palm trees and other varieties of house plants at home is not difficult. I have been doing this almost since childhood. And it is very important for me to know the smallest details of caring for my beloved household. One of the main problems, I think, is a white coating on the surface of the earth of the plant.

I did not immediately figure out where he came from, but the neighbor quickly solved my problem, telling in detail the reasons for his appearance and how to deal with him. Everything turned out to be quite understandable and quite simple. Now I will tell you the secrets of white plaque and methods of dealing with it.

Often a white or yellowish coating can be seen on the surface of the soil and on the inside of the pot. Where it comes from and what to do with it, now you will learn more in the article.

Reasons for the appearance of white plaque

  • Water. When watering domestic plants with unsettled tap water, a white coating forms on top of the ground and on the walls of the container. This is lime sediment.
  • Insufficient watering. The plant must be watered sufficiently to soak all the soil. If you water only the upper layer of the substrate, then a layer of mineral plaque will form on the surface. The pot should also not be poured, which can lead to the death of the plant. When watering the next time, you need to make sure that the soil is completely dry.
  • Extra land. If you have planted a small plant in a large pot, expect a white coating to appear soon. This is due to the fact that the root system does not fill the entire capacity of the pot, as a result, it cannot absorb and absorb all the moisture. The water will evaporate and leave a salt crust on the ground.
  • Dry air. If there is dry air in the room, then all the moisture quickly evaporates from the ground and raises salt to the surface, forming the same crust.
  • Soil composition. Incorrectly selected composition or mechanical content of the substrate for the plant can contribute to the formation of this problem.
  • Drainage. The absence of a drainage system in the tank results in poor air permeability through the soil and difficult water permeability.
  • Fertilizers, or rather their overdose. Care should be taken when using top dressings and fertilizers for houseplants. In case of an overdose, not only a white coating may appear, but other problems may arise, up to the death of the roots of the plant. Before applying the fertilizer, read the instructions carefully and apply the preparation correctly. Fertilizer should not be applied during dormant periods of the plant.

Having dealt with the causes and knowing the consequences, we can proceed directly to solving problems. Of course, it is necessary to “treat” the soil from white plaque, leaving the cause of its formation. By following the tips below, we can avoid future soil problems.

Tips on how to avoid the problem of white plaque:

  1. Before planting, the land is not fertilized, but a clean substrate is taken. Top dressing is given to the plant after it gives new roots and adapts well to the new environment. Fertilize the soil moderately.
  2. River sand mixed with pebbles of different sizes is poured onto the surface of the soil and mixed shallowly with the soil. Such a mixture will allow the water not to stagnate and quickly evaporate without forming a salt crust.
  3. The plant is watered only with softened water. To do this, it must be defended for at least two days.
  4. Plant the plant in relation to its size and the size of the pot.
  5. Be sure to make drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot.
  6. If the air in the room is too dry, you can use humidifiers. They are useful not only for plants, but also for the human body.
  7. If it is possible to pass water through a filter with ions, the plants will be grateful to you, as many harmful microelements will leave the composition of the water.

The method of getting rid of white or yellowish plaque is very simple. It is enough to remove from the flowerpot the entire top layer of the earth, which is defeated by plaque, and remove plaque from the walls of the pot, if any. You can do this with a washcloth. Next, fill the pot with new fresh soil and try to get rid of the cause of the appearance of plaque.

Mold

If the plaque on the ground has a white or grayish tint, and most importantly - fluffy in its structure, then this is mold. Basically, it appears from an excess of moisture in the tank and when the temperature in the room drops. It can rarely be brought in with poor-quality earthen substrate.

Mold is not a threat to adult house plants, but it is dangerous to a young individual or seedlings. There are a couple of ways to get rid of mold:

  • Reduce the amount of watering and its volume. It is also necessary to transplant the plants into another container with a new substrate.
  • Pour ash or crushed coal on the surface of the earth with mold, dry and remove everything, capturing the top layer of soil. After done, add new soil.

To prevent mold:

  1. Potassium permanganate (solution) or special preparations for harmful fungal raids are used.
  2. The pot is boiled before use, or at least doused with boiling water. This procedure is mandatory if there was already a plaque in the pot.
  3. To kill harmful microbes and mold spores, the earth is calcined in an oven or steamed. This is not only done with garden soil, but even purchased substrate can often be contaminated. It is not difficult to steam the earth. You should pour the soil into a colander and put it on a pot of boiling water. The soil is ready when it is hot.

Summing up, we can say

  • White plaque is not a threat to the life of the plant.
  • You can easily get rid of it.
  • If the plaque is fluffy, then this is mold, so slightly different methods of struggle will be needed.
  • To avoid raids and mold in the future, it is necessary to carry out preventive actions and create favorable conditions for house plants.

Hello! We have a slight white coating on the ground in a polycarbonate greenhouse. What could be the reason for the appearance of white plaque and is it dangerous for plants grown in a greenhouse? How can you eliminate white plaque on the surface of the soil in a greenhouse?

White mold on the ground in a greenhouse is a common problem. Many gardeners note the appearance of a similar problem, and finding the cause is not always easy. The fact is that with careful watering, sedimentation of white salts can be observed on the surface of the soil. In this case, only a complete replacement of the soil in the greenhouse can solve the problem. An excessive excess of salts that have entered the soil from fertilizers and water can adversely affect plant growth, but there will not be a total loss of yield.

It is impossible to take any targeted measures to reduce the acidity of the soil during the cultivation of plants, as this can ruin the entire crop. Only after harvesting, it is possible to carry out the liming procedure of the earth or replace its top layer, so that next year you will not encounter a similar problem.

It should be borne in mind that if a white coating appears on the soil almost every year on the site and in the greenhouse, it is necessary to change the approach to watering.

The fact is that when water is taken from a well or from a city water supply system, the earth is salted and oxidized much faster. It is best to water the soil in a greenhouse with pre-collected rainwater.

With this option, to fix the problem, you must first of all reduce the amount of watering and thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse by opening it all night. Airing the greenhouse and reducing humidity will remove moss and pathogenic fungus that forms a white coating. These measures are temporary and can significantly reduce the risk of plant damage. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that after harvesting, it is necessary to thoroughly disinfect both the greenhouse itself and the land in it.

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White mold forms in flower pots. In addition to worries about how to get rid of it, the question arises: what is the reason for its occurrence?

Factors contributing to the formation of mold

The main reason for the appearance of white plaque on the soil is a fungal infection. There are several conditions necessary for its development. Mold in a flower pot is formed due to both low temperature and high humidity in the room, and improper watering (excessive or frequent). Also contribute to the development of the fungus clogged drainage holes at the bottom of the vessel for plants, the substrate that does not match the variety of plantings.

Mold in a flower pot often appears when autumn cloudy days come. During this period, less water is absorbed by plants, and what remains in the ground due to a decrease in air temperature evaporates slowly. Accumulating, moisture creates favorable conditions for the development of infection.

Prevention measures and ways to get rid of mold

To stop the formation of fungal plaque in the pot, it is recommended to reduce the amount of water for watering the plant and the frequency of the procedure. For the speedy evaporation of excess moisture, you can carefully, so as not to damage the roots of the flower, loosen the substrate around it. It should be remembered that improper care can lead to the development of infection in both anthurium, which requires a lot of moisture, and cactus, which is unpretentious. Having found out why there is mold in a flower pot, one can come to the conclusion that its appearance does not depend on the state of the plant, but on external factors.

To combat the fungus, you should clean the bottom holes of the plant vessel, provide good drainage and reduce the frequency of watering. Perhaps the flower does not have time to absorb the entire volume of moisture, as a result of which it evaporates and forms a salt coating on the surface of the earth. It is better to water the plant less often and more abundantly than poorly, but often. This contributes to the complete washing of the soil layer.

Change of scenery as a way to save the plant

If changing the watering regime does not bring an effective result, the mold in the flower pot can be defeated in another way. First of all, the plant should be transplanted into a smaller vessel. If the root system does not allow this, then you can only replace it. Before transplanting, it is recommended to thoroughly wash the pot and scald it with boiling water. The ideal option is to boil it completely in a pot or bucket for a while. Then you need to dry the vessel, pour drainage material on its bottom. In order to get rid of microorganisms that form mold in a flower pot, the new earth must be calcined on a stove or steamed over boiling water before planting. This rule also applies to soil purchased from a specialized store, since it can also be contaminated, which means that it needs to be processed. For steaming, the earth can be placed in a colander over boiling water.

This problem is probably familiar to many who are fond of houseplants. Sometimes it happens that the top layer in pots with your favorite flowers begins to slowly turn white. It looks like it doesn't look like mold. Then why is the earth covered with such a coating, and what is it lacking.

Why is the earth in pots covered with white bloom?

I think many people understand that most of these problems in the same home floriculture usually reflect our mistakes in caring for plants. A similar "white veil" is an ordinary crust of salt. It can be white, and sometimes white-yellowish. In such a crust arises in pots simply - when the physical evaporation of water from the soil significantly prevails over the evaporation of the same water from the plant itself. Again, there are several reasons for this, as always:

  • Perhaps the mechanical composition of the mixture that is in the flower pot is too heavy. That is why there is a high (sometimes even excessively) its capillarity, and because of such capillarity, water is more intensively drawn to the soil surface.
  • Again, mistakes are not ruled out when watering the plant. Perhaps you are pouring immediately with water that you just poured directly from under your tap. You don’t need to do this, let it at least settle a little.
  • Drainage at the bottom of the pot may be difficult. If so, then again, evaporation from the very surface of the soil in the pot will be the main way to expend moisture.
  • Perhaps you just overfertilized the mixture or you have already purchased such a mixture. Indeed, many manufacturers of such soil mixtures sin precisely with this, especially if they make this mixture for vegetables.
  • "Got too far" with top dressing.
  • And the simple reason that immediately comes to many minds is the banal dryness of the air itself. It is precisely because of the dryness that the evaporation increases many times over and the salts are thus "drawn" to the surface.

In addition to all these points, white plaque can easily appear due to fungal microflora. This microflora is again created by our diligence, which we show excessively when watering. Therefore, to get rid of such a plaque, water your flowers correctly (read about it). That is, when the top layer of earth in the pot is already dry.

What to do and how to get rid of?

In order to have less such white (and any other) plaque, you just need to cover the soil from above with expanded clay. Of course, such a raid after some time may appear on expanded clay. Then they simply remove it, wash it well and put it back in place.

  • Another option is to sprinkle the earth in a pot with river sand. After that, the top layer along with the sand should be loosened. The very addition of sand and the subsequent loosening of the soil is very beneficial for the roots of your plant. Also, you can remove the top layer itself and simply add good leafy soil or no less good humus in its place.
  • The easiest way is to remove all this "whiteness" along with the earth, and then add a new one there.
  • If the water in your house is hard (and it is for the most part), then you should use filters. You can also water for irrigation and soften. To do this, simply drop a rag bag into the jar, where you need to put a little peat.

One of the options for the appearance of such a raid is dry air, which is not uncommon in our apartments in winter. Because of this, we begin to water the plants more often, and for this reason the soil is covered with such a coating. (How everything is interconnected turns out to be!?) To avoid such mistakes, watch this video.


1. Where does the white coating on the ground come from? The land was bought from a store. Why does plaque appear on some pots, but not on others. What is the reason and how to fight?

Answer: A salt crust of white or white-yellow color on the surface of the soil mixture in a pot appears due to the predominance of purely physical evaporation of water from the soil over transpiration by the plant. There are several reasons.

    1. Too heavy mechanical composition of the soil. As a result, its high capillarity and intensive pulling of water to the soil surface.
    2. Difficult drainage at the bottom of the pot and, as a result, evaporation from the soil surface, as the main way of water consumption.
    3. Irrigation mistakes: poor watering, when the amount of water applied in one irrigation is only enough to wet the surface layer. Watering can be rare, but should be plentiful with washing the entire soil mass.
    4. Re-fertilized soil mixture. Many of their manufacturers sin with this, especially when preparing mixtures for vegetables. In general, this is a problem when using purchased formulations. For some reason, manufacturers in the mass are sure that fertilized soil mixture from the heart is a virtue. As if they do not know that all transplants are only in an unfertilized environment! The next careful top dressing only after obvious signs of rooting.
    5. Violation of the principle of matching the volume of soil in a pot and the assimilation ability of the roots of a given plant. There should not be significant volumes of soil that are not mastered by the root system. Otherwise, again the predominance of physical evaporation over transpiration.
    6. Errors in the dosing of top dressings (overdose), as well as the introduction of top dressings during the dormant period of the plant. For some reason, current manufacturers began to recommend solution concentrations of 2 g / l or more. This is not true. A guaranteed non-toxic concentration in the general case can be recognized as 1 g / l, and for certain groups of plants (ferns, orchids) 0.5 g / l and even 0.1 g / l.
    7. And of course, the notorious softness of irrigation water. Look at its quality, everyone in your city. If the amount of water required for irrigation is insignificant, you can use filtration using some fancy filter with an ion exchanger: chlorine, calcium, magnesium will be removed, and, for example, useful potassium will be added. But this is not for bucket volumes - it's expensive. A reliable softener is oxalic acid, but litmus control is required, because. the initial content of Ca and Mg in water is generally unknown.
    8. Dry air. Dry air strongly stimulates physical evaporation, which again leads to the removal of salts to the soil surface. Salts that come with water from the soil, after its evaporation remain in the leaves - this is the normal mechanism of mineral nutrition. But with increased evaporation, excess salts accumulate in the leaves, and over time, their concentration rises to a dangerous level. In dry air, evaporation from the soil surface is also high, and salts also accumulate there. Soil salinity occurs (in the form of plaque on the soil surface), which provokes plant diseases. In the room where flowers grow, air humidity must be constantly monitored and regulated. That is why there is no salt crust with a "bottle" culture, in various closed greenhouses and greenhouses. However, raising the air humidity in an apartment is an even more dreary task than cleaning irrigation water.

Of course, any of the above reasons can be combined!

And yet - a white coating on the surface of the earth in a pot can be caused by the development of fungal microflora from excessive watering, and in order to get rid of it, you need to water the plant only after the top layer of earth in the pot has dried.

Sometimes mold lives in the purchased land. Not necessarily from excessive watering, often purchased land is just that. One even gets the impression that from one container it is scattered into different packages. Yes, from one package, in one case, the soil may "bloom" with white mold, or "wait" for some time. Adult plants usually do not suffer much from this, but there is some danger. But young seedlings may die. Mold, even with ordinary watering, in especially sad cases, grows and permeates the entire earth in a pot. Then you need to replant, completely change the whole earth, use fungicides - in general, a long song. But a white-brown coating sometimes appears due to waterlogging of the soil. It has also been noted that the coating on the surface depends on the composition of the earth, the more peat is in the ground, the stronger the coating on the surface (see paragraph 1).

There are many ways to get rid. There is less white and any other plaque if you fill the earth in a pot with expanded clay from above. Then a white dried precipitate appears on the expanded clay itself, collect it from time to time and wash it, then put it back in place.

It is recommended to sprinkle the earth with river sand and loosen the top layer of soil (together with sand). Loosening the soil with the addition of sand is very useful for plant roots. You can remove the top layer and add high-quality leaf or humus soil.

You can simply remove the entire white layer of earth and add a new one.

Stores sell soil softener. The top layer of the earth with a touch is removed and a little deeper and a deoxidizer is poured. It is good to water the flowers with aquarium water.

If it is still mold, drying the earth gives a temporary suspension of the process, but at the next watering it starts with a vengeance. Collect it and sprinkle the earth in a pot with crushed activated charcoal, this prevents rotting and mold growth. In addition to coal, periodically loosen the top layer, add another, healthy earth. Well, in the future, it’s better to transplant the plant into a normal substrate, wash the pot with a stiff brush and laundry soap. From serious events, you can shed the soil with foundationazole, hom or oxych.

2. A white coating appeared on the pot. What is it? How to get rid?

Answer: Maybe it's mold - wet the outside with water and see if it's slippery to the touch. If yes, then mold, then wash the outside of the pot with a cloth and soap and reduce watering - let the earth dry out a little.