Kuznetsov's fireplace stove: ordering, laying, materials and execution. Do-it-yourself bell-type stove for heating a house: step-by-step instructions for laying Kuznetsov's heating stoves made of bricks

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For more than 50 years, Kuznetsov's stoves have occupied a high position among heating structures for the home, and this is not surprising, since stoves have many advantages and are strikingly different from channel stoves, not only externally, but also in their characteristics. Kuznetsov was the first person who dared to test the most practical and convenient system of furnaces.

In all furnaces, hot air moves through the channels, and passing through them heats up the walls of the furnace, but the air itself quickly cools. Such a movement of air can only be in the presence of optimal traction, that is, forced, but at the same time the furnace body heats up unevenly, which leads to cracking of bricks and the appearance of unwanted cracks. Thanks to Kuznetsov, an independent principle of air movement in the furnace arose. Furnaces have a second name - domed, which they acquired due to their unique design.

The hoods of this furnace must certainly communicate with each other using a dry seam - a space of 2-3 cm, which is not filled with a solution and a heat insulator through which gases pass from one hood to another. In simple terms, the principle of operation of Kuznetsov's furnaces is as follows: gases circulate and pass through the pipe due to their own gravity, and not forcibly, as happens when moving through the chimney.

In channel furnaces, the smoke, as it were, is drawn out through the pipe, and in a bell-type furnace it is pushed out. In this case, the cap can serve as a container for heating water or serve as a place for cooking. Even the simplest domed oven can perform a dual function.

The figure below shows in detail the principle of the movement of gases in the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace.

The red arrows clearly show how hot air moves, and the blue arrows indicate the movement of cold air, which enters the furnace from the outside through the blower. Due to the fact that the weight of cold air is greater than that of hot air, it will not be able to rise up and will go down without affecting the overall temperature in the hood. In turn, hot air collects under the hood, gradually cooling there, and then it will be displaced by gusts of hotter air that rise up.

Advantages, disadvantages and differences

The advantages include the following features:

• The ability to heat the stove with different fuels
• Uniform heating of the walls
• Good heat dissipation
• Does not emit smoke or soot when burning
• The need for cleaning the oven is minimal.
• The oven does not crack
• Holds heat well
• Shape and design may vary
• Fuel economy
• The ability to heat the stove even with raw wood

One of the main distinguishing qualities of Kuznetsov furnaces is an increased efficiency value. In an ordinary Russian oven, it is 30% -40%, and in these ovens it is almost 95%, which distinguishes these ovens from ordinary Russian ones. The internal concept is thought out in detail and competently, thanks to which the heated air lingers in the stove for a longer period, and the cold air, on the contrary, quickly exits into the chimney due to a special recess. It is also worth noting that Kuznetsov's stoves can be fired with various types of fuel, even such low-grade fuels as sawdust, on which equipment that provides hot water supply can be installed.

Kuznetsov was the first in the world to use automatic distribution of thrust through the channels, which makes it possible to eliminate waste even with an open view. This system distinguishes Kuznetsov furnaces in that it is unique and simple. In furnaces of this design, heat is not wasted, but immediately begins to work for space heating or hot water supply, since the emitted gases do not twist into a vortex, as in channel structures, but give their energy to impregnate the furnace.

If in channel furnaces the remnants of the fuel masses simply “fly out” into the pipe, then the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace is arranged differently. When there are few fuel masses left and they begin to burn out, the caps play the role of storage, trapping heated air masses under their arches and giving all the energy to the walls of the stove.

Of the shortcomings, which are not so many, we can name the following:

• It is necessary to carefully follow the order in order for the design to turn out to be of high quality.
• In the manufacture it is necessary to use only high-quality materials.

Types of ovens

All Kuznetsov models are bell-shaped, but they also have different classifications. To date, several types are known:

• Bell-type furnace - has one hood.
• Two-cap - two caps.
• Dome-in this type of furnace there can be several caps. Dome stoves are used more often than others, as they can be designed for any room and supplemented with any devices.
• With a water heating boiler - it is possible to install additional equipment for such furnaces.
• With a bench - this is a stove on which a place for lying is provided.
• OVIK heating and cooking stoves - such stoves not only heat the house, but also make it possible to cook on a specially provided stove.
• The oven-oven - not only heats, but is also equipped with an oven in which you can bake.
• The fireplace stove is ideal for warming up the house and spending the evening near the fire.
• Two-story - these are furnaces that can perform several functions at once. For example, to heat a room, serve as a hob, have a stove bench and an oven. The only disadvantage that the Kuznetsov two-story bell-type furnace has is its bulky dimensions. This oven is ideal for large spaces.
• Russian stoves RTIK - in addition to heating and a hob, the stove is equipped with an additional one on which you can dry firewood or shoes.
• Outdoor ovens are more like outdoor complexes, as they include a grill and barbecue for outdoor cooking.

The models listed above are far from the entire list of furnaces for various purposes, which were developed according to Kuznetsov's schemes. There are also many drawings with which you can make mixed options with different functions. In addition to stoves, according to Kuznetsov's developments, fireplaces and stoves for saunas are also being made. These designs have increased heat dissipation, which allows you to quickly heat up the room.

How to do it yourself

Most often, heating and cooking stoves OVIK 5 are used in houses, we will consider just such a stove as an example.

To make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, you will need the following:

Material

• Two types of bricks: solid red (M150) and heat-resistant fireclay (SHB-8)
• Sand and cement (3: 1), but you can also take a ready-made factory mixture
• Accessories for the furnace: cast iron doors, ash chamber, doors for cleaning holes, valves, grate and views
• Wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of 10 m. Bricks will be tied with it
• Steel corners (2 pcs.)
• Reinforcing mesh for the foundation

Tools

• Master OK
• A hammer
• Trowel
• Stitching
• Basin or bath to mix the mortar
• Roulette
• plumb line
• Level
• Drill with mixer attachment
• Bulgarian

Foundation

Before making a furnace, it is necessary to prepare the foundation. When it bookmark you should be careful and do everything exactly according to the instructions, otherwise the foundation will settle under the weight of the furnace, and the furnace may crack, which will further lead to collapse.

The foundation should be 15-20 cm larger than the furnace parameters. Only in this case it will meet all the requirements of the regulations.

To make a foundation for the Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, you will need to do the following:

1. First of all, we dig a pit with a depth of at least 1 m, it is at this depth that the soil freezes in winter. The edges and walls of the pit must be made as even as possible, which will allow you to spend less cement mortar.
2. Next, we make the so-called "pillow" of sand. It is desirable to fill in the sifted sand so that it is compacted more densely. The height of the pillow should be about 20 cm. Then leave the pillow for a couple of days to shrink.
3. Next, you need to make formwork. The best option for formwork would be boards, although other material can be used. The upper part of the formwork should match the level of the floor in the house.
4. Next, we proceed to the installation of fittings. As a reinforcement, a mesh with cells from 50 mm and a bar thickness from 6 mm is suitable. The grid must be positioned so that it is either in the middle of the foundation, or before the concrete comes out of the soil to the outside. The last option is the most optimal.
5. The final stage of the foundation is the pouring of concrete. In addition to concrete, heavy mineral impurities or gravel can be added to the composition, and a water repellent will be the best addition, which will not allow moisture to be absorbed into the foundation and extend its service life. After the concrete is poured, its surface must be leveled with a spatula and immediately remove all defects on the surface.

After completing the above work, the foundation must be left for a while to dry. Ideally, at least 30 days, depending on weather conditions, but it hardens in a week, so you can proceed with the further construction of the furnace.

Let's move on to construction. Since the bell-type furnace is considered the most common design, this is what we will do. Before laying, you need to pay attention to important points:

• On the foundation before the first laying, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer, which can be roofing felt or foil isothermal film. If foil is laid, then it must be laid with the shiny side up so that it reflects thermal energy.
• Do not make changes in the order, as this may affect the operation of the furnace and its service life. An exception can be made only in rows of solid overlap and change their appearance.
• To make the front side look solid, you need to take good quality bricks, even and without cracks.
• If you need to cut a brick, then you need to do it with a grinder, the edges and planes should have an even shape.

1. The first two levels must be laid out with fireclay bricks using a furnace bonding mortar. The refractory layer will not allow thermal energy to escape into the foundation. From the second row, you need to start preparing the ash pan and blower. Bricks must be placed in a checkerboard pattern and only on clay mortar. It is also necessary to observe the thickness of the seam, which must be at least 5 mm.
2. In the third row, we begin preparing the trajectory of the smoke channels.
3. To make the furnace easy to maintain, four standard-sized cleaning doors must be made in the chimneys.
4. The grate for the grate must be laid at the fifth level, and partitions between the blower, the hood and the firebox are also laid at this level.
5. From the 5th to the 14th rows, a combustion chamber made of fireclay bricks is laid out. It is important not to forget about a very important factor: there must be a compensation gap between fireclay and red masonry bricks. It is needed so that the furnace is not damaged by the resulting thermal expansion of the material.
6. It is necessary to install the doors of the firebox and the blower with the help of an asbestos sealant.
7. In the 17th and 18th rows, the cap overlap has a solid plane, without holes for the chimney.
8. As you can see in the order, in the 21st row there are two passages that are located along the inner walls.
9. In the 28th, 29th and 30th rows, you can make a slight deviation from the order if you want to change the shape of the oven. In the case of a low ceiling, fire cuts should be made.
10. As the laying out, the lining of the inner surface of the brickwork should be made. It is necessary to smooth the joints with a solution, adding heat-resistant material to it.
11. The overlap must be carried out with 2 cast-iron support angles, the length of which should be at least 45 mm, but the exact size should be chosen taking into account the load.

During the construction of Kuznetsov furnaces, building materials will be required much less than for channel furnaces, since dome structures contain more empty space inside. For this reason, the stove can be considered as an economical option, and the shape of the structure can be completely different, including the corner one.

Before you make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, you should carefully study the orders and not deviate from them even a centimeter, otherwise the correct design may be violated. Also, do not forget that you should choose a high-quality and reliable material that will meet all safety standards.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsovskaya sauna stove

The 1st row must be laid so that its surface is even, which is easy to check with a level, and the shape should be in the form of a rectangle.

As already mentioned, in the 2nd row the first cap and blower will begin. To do this, you need to take a brick, divide it in half and put each part so that they are pushed out slightly outward, as shown in the figure. There is no need to use a solution. After the masonry is completed, these halves are pulled out.

14 bricks will be needed for the 2nd row, and after the bricks are laid, it is necessary to install the blower door, which must be supported with several bricks. We wrap the frame with a cord, as mentioned in the recommendations. It must be fixed with wire, which must be laid in the seams. Also, the wire is used to reinforce the walls of the furnace, which must be laid in every even row.

We lay out the third row, in which the bricks included in it should fix the blower door well.

The blower door in the 4th row should be blocked with hewn ceramic bricks, which should look outward, and with hewn fireclay bricks, which should look inward. Between them there should be a thermal gap of 5 mm. To make a gap, you will need a gasket made of packaging corrugated cardboard. Such a gap must be made in all places where two types of bricks intersect.

In the fifth row, the fireclay brick, which forms the side walls of the furnace, must be slightly shifted so that the bricks of the lower row form a shelf, the width of which must be at least 15 mm. This is necessary for the grate. In the same row, we begin to form a vertical channel that connects both caps. After the row is fully laid out, we install the grate, and fill the gaps between it and the brick with sand.

During the laying of the sixth row, a furnace door is also installed. An asbestos cord is laid between the door frame and the brick, and it is fixed at the bottom with a wire, and at the top with an iron strip.

When laying the seventh row, the assembly from the brick that forms the back wall of the firebox leaves a gap of 30 mm - this is the beginning of a dry joint.

Following the scheme, lay out the eighth row.

In the ninth row, a channel is formed that connects the firebox with the lower cap. In the diagram, those bricks in the side walls of the furnace are highlighted in lilac, the upper faces of which should be 10 mm below the plane of the row.

When laying the tenth row, do not forget that ceramic bricks are placed on the asbestos lining that covers the fireclay bricks without mortar. In the ceramic bricks surrounding the firebox, you need to make a cutout for the hob. The size of the cutout should be such that there is a gap of 5 mm around the plate. At the point of contact between the fireclay brick and the panel, a gap of 10 mm must be left. Such bricks, cut at an angle, are located on the right and in front, and are indicated in the drawing in yellow.

In the eleventh row, the walls of the cooking chamber begin, and the door for the chamber is also installed in it. Do not forget to wrap the frame with asbestos cord and fix it tightly with wire.

From the 12th to the 14th row we make the masonry according to the order.

After the laying of bricks in the 15th row is completed, the cooking chamber is covered with a sheet of steel, the thickness of which should be 3 mm, and the size is 60X55 cm, with a cutout for the exhaust duct. To strengthen the sheet, we use 4 segments from the corner and a steel strip.

The 17th row is done in order, and in the eighteenth we begin to form the upper cap.

From the 19th to the 27th row we put the oven in accordance with the order. In the 28th row, we proceed to install the main chimney valve. Here, too, you will need to leave a gap of 6 mm around the valve, and the depth under it should be 11 mm.

After the masonry is completely completed, the stove must be left to dry for a while, and the fire should be started with a small amount of firewood.

The bell-type sauna stove has also gained considerable popularity, as it heats all the main bath rooms and has good heat dissipation with minimal fuel consumption. Kuznetsov's two-tier sauna stoves are simple and effective. The problem of heating water in the shower is easily solved by the register built into the stove.

If you decide to make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, then it is worth exploring several options for ordering that will help you make it correctly and in accordance with safety measures.

The principle of operation of Kuznetsov devices takes into account the natural properties of hot air and gases released during the combustion of fuel. The design of a brick oven is different in that the smoke is kept inside the stove itself. For this, a so-called hood is equipped - a combustion chamber, which is a closed dome, where the hottest air rises, displacing the cooling air through the lower side outlet.

Photo 1. Scheme of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace, showing the features of the movement of gas flows in the device.

The ventilation hole under the bottom of the furnace ensures a constant supply of cold air. Due to the fact that hot air is kept in the stove for as long as possible, the heat transfer efficiency increases three times compared to other similar devices.

The designers also tried to achieve such results in the case of traditional stoves - for this, models with a system of chimney channels were developed. In them, hot air is also retained inside the device, but the lengthening of the chimney in a natural way worsens the hood, so the heating efficiency does not increase much.

In the case of Kuznetsov's devices, the draft is not disturbed, and hot air is retained not by increasing the length of the channel. It happens due to the natural properties of hot gases, they rise and displace colder ones. The dimensions of this type of stove can vary depending on the required power and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room that needs to be heated. Models with one cap are usually compact and suitable for arranging a small country house.

double bell oven

The most common option for high-quality heating of a private house is the Kuznetsov device with two caps.

Its efficiency is much higher due to longer retention of hot air.

Caps made of heat-resistant bricks are located one above the other with a slight offset - the air displaced from the first cap immediately enters the second one, from which it already goes into the exhaust pipe.

The size of such a stove is directly dependent on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, even a building with an internal up to 5 cu. m. The firebox usually occupies the entire area of ​​​​the base, this helps to increase the heating power of the air in the furnace.

Reference. In the design of a two-bell furnace, special valves are often installed to isolate the second bell and reduce the heat transfer of the device. It's necessary during the warmer season when high heating power is no longer required.

When using dampers, hot air from the first hood is directed directly into the chimney.

Heating and cooking version of the device

A feature of this design will be the changed location of the first cap - it is made protruding and a hob is installed in its vault most often made of cast iron.

The stove must be solid, because due to the design, the smoke is not drawn out of the hood, so it will inevitably enter the room through split burners.

Sometimes a stove is also installed above the second hood - it does not heat up so much and cannot be used for cooking, but it will be an excellent tool for drying vegetables, fruits, mushrooms and herbs. They often make a niche for storing logs and drying them before use.

You will also be interested in:

With bread chamber

This option is almost the same as a standard heating and cooking stove, but additionally equipped with an oven, mounted in the space of the first cap. The chamber is usually made of cast iron or extra strong steel, lined with fireclay bricks on the inside to provide a softer heat for baking.

In addition to the bread chamber, they often install water heating tank- the area of ​​the second cap is also suitable for this. Depending on the number of additional functions, the size of the furnace will increase, it will require large fuel costs.

Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

According to the principle of operation, the sauna stove does not differ from the options described above. But still she has several features:

• built into the bottom cap of the device tray with stones;
• the device is provided water access and steam outlets;
• has thicker walls for maximum heating of the stones and to avoid overheating of the room.

Furnace drawings

Photo 2. Drawing and ordering of the two-bell Kuznetsov furnace. The device is presented in one piece and in section.

Photo 3. Drawing of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace. Also, the device is equipped with a system of chimney channels.

DIY construction, device ordering

Before undertaking work, it is necessary to correctly calculate the design of the device, For this, the following factors are taken into account:

1. Furnace power- depends on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the quality of its thermal insulation.
2. Number of caps- in Kuznetsov furnaces they are often made three or more, which significantly increases the heating efficiency, almost without requiring extra fuel consumption. Only the change in the massiveness of the device is taken into account.
3. The main function of the furnace- whether the device will be used only for heating or additional features will be needed: cooking, heating water.

Photo 4. Step-by-step ordering of the Kuznetsov furnace. The finished device is also shown from different angles.

A common option for construction is a two-bell oven with a hob. It is functional with a fairly compact size and is well suited for placement in small country houses.

materials

A very high temperature forms inside the cap area, so only refractory brick and chamotte clay with fine sand for masonry mortar. Homemade mix is ​​often recommended to replace ready mixes from building stores- this reduces the risk that the cap will crack during operation and lose sealing.

For laying out external walls and upper tiers, ordinary ceramic bricks with a density of M150 and cement mortar.

When working, we must not forget that laying ordinary and fireclay bricks in one row is excluded - they have different expansion rates and the masonry will collapse during operation.

In addition to masonry materials, you will need to purchase additional elements- metal corners, doors and hinges, latches, hob. All this is available for purchase in specialized stores. You will need reinforced wire to perform the binding of the masonry.

Tools

For all types of work you need to prepare a set of tools in advance:

• a container for preparing the solution and a shovel for mixing it;
• furnace hammer-pick for breaking bricks;
• grinder with a cutting disc for stone;
• pliers and scissors for metal for cutting wire;
• trowel for applying mortar;
• leveling rule;
• protective gloves and goggles.

To check the correct masonry, you will also need various measuring instruments: tape measure, building level, plumb lines, cords, etc.

Site preparation

The construction of a brick oven always begins with the equipment of the base. For blacksmithing suitable for a standard type foundation- depth half a meter and with sides that go beyond the perimeter of the future masonry on 10 cm. Operating procedure:

1. A pit is being prepared, the bottom on 15-20 cm closes the drainage - a layer of sand and crushed stone.
2. A wooden formwork is placed on a well-packed drainage, protruding above the surface by 20 cm
3. The foundation is poured with concrete mix and left to solidify.
4. After the correct laying of the foundation, a flat platform is obtained, protruding above the floor surface by 10-15 cm(depending on shrinkage).

Base surface closed waterproofing layer(roofing felt is good), then it is laid reflective layer metal industrial foil. In the case of the construction of a blacksmith, the heat from the furnace will be stronger than from conventional appliances, especially in the lower tier, so the foundation is protected from overheating.

The walls adjacent to the future location of the device are closed thermal insulation material, it is recommended to stuff a metal sheet on the floor in front of the firebox to avoid the risk of fire from falling coals. The location of the chimney is calculated in advance - it is not recommended to place it next to the roof ridge.

Masonry

After the foundation has been prepared, work begins on the construction of the device itself:

1. The solution is mixed in the prepared container- before starting work, the clay is soaked for two days. In addition to a shovel, the use of a construction mixer will be effective for mixing.
2. When laying, it is recommended each row is first laid on a dry surface to accurately determine the dimensions of the cutting of bricks. The first row of the base is made solid.
3. Starting from the second row the blower is laid out, and then the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe first cap. Hinges for the furnace door are installed as necessary. Every third row masonry is connected with wire, the cut pieces of which are laid in the solution.
4. The interior of the firebox laid out with fireclay bricks, outdoor- ordinary ceramic. Between these layers there is no binder solution, a small gap is left. Bricks from two rows should also not protrude, intersect with the adjacent layer.
5. Inside the vault of the first cap, on supports made of fireclay bricks, cast iron hob, which is hermetically fixed with a solution.
6. After completing the set first cap, laying out the base for the second begins with a slight offset ( to the width of the hob).
7. Giving all the best second cap, chimney column, valves are installed to isolate the second level in the summer.

After laying out the top and installing the chimney pipe, the finished stove is left to dry, which takes at least a month. First two weeks the device is dried with open windows and doors, starting from the third week produce gradual heating, increasing the volume of fuel until it reaches a full bookmark.

Possible difficulties

The blacksmith masonry has some specifics, therefore In the absence of experience, mistakes are often made:

• No gap is left between the walls of the firebox and the outer- fireclay brick expands when heated, so it can destroy the masonry.
• No wire is used for tying masonry- due to the greater degree of heating, the walls of the furnace may crack.
• No gap left when installing metal parts- also leads to the expansion of the metal with strong heating and the appearance of cracks.
• Wrong warm-up disrupt the drying process of the masonry and lead to the occurrence of deformations, cracks.
• Not properly insulated walls and ceilings (at the installation site of the chimney) - due to the high heating temperature, the risk of fire in the case of using a blacksmith is higher than that of a simple furnace.



Due to the very high temperatures inside the combustion chamber, most of the ash and soot burns through, reducing the frequency of cleaning.

One of the advantages of blacksmithing is the ability to choose any currently available solid fuel: firewood, dry pieces of peat, sawdust.

With small changes in the design, it is possible to install a heating system with gas or electricity. It is possible to connect the stove to a water circuit, which will allow high-quality heating of remote rooms. The undoubted advantage will be relatively low cost of materials, the ability to perform all stages of work independently.

Stove heating in village houses, country cottages, in dachas is not such a rarity. In the urban private sector, along with centralized systems, many people use fireplaces as a heating structure and a decorative interior element. And for those who plan to install a powerful universal heat source in the house, replacing radiators, and a hob, and an oven, a bell-type stove, an invention of Russian engineer Igor Kuznetsov, is suitable.

The heating effect of an open fire was noticed by our ancestors, lighting fires in caves. Bonfires were replaced by partially closed hearths, and then by the first inefficient fireplaces, most of the heat of which went into the chimney.

The Russian stove, laid out according to the channel technology, in contrast to the famous "blacksmithing", is only 30-40% effective

Over time, they came up with a kind of cap that traps hot gases inside the structure, and learned how to divide the hot air into several streams. A turning point in technology occurred when I. S. Podgorodnikov, a well-known heating engineer in our country, took up the issue. He invented a "two-story hood", which organized the exit of flue gases in a slightly different way. However, practice was not enough, and the idea was finally brought to life thanks to I. V. Kuznetsov.

A variant of the bell-shaped device of a wood-burning stove with an oven

Igor Viktorovich created a powerful theoretical base on bell combustion, which he managed to successfully put into practice. It was only thanks to his work that stove heating became truly effective. He has developed more than 150 different standards, collected dozens of standard solutions and schemes. The most advanced modifications became popular, hundreds of craftsmen adopted the orders of Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces. Let's try to figure out how the blacksmith works.

The principle of operation of the bell structure

Previously, before Kuznetsov's discoveries, heating was ducted, that is, hot air from the furnace rose up inside the device, heating its walls. Giving heat to the bricks, the gases cooled and, under the action of thrust, went into the pipe. Over time, due to uneven heating, cracks appeared, and the masonry required repair. Cons of duct heating - rapid cooling, a large amount of soot.

The movement of gases, according to Kuznetsov's theory, occurs freely. Hot air inside the structure is retained by two hoods, located either one above the other, or side by side. There are options with holes in the middle of the domes. Both elements are connected by means of the so-called "dry seam" - the free space necessary for the circulation of gases.

Scheme of the movement of gases in a bell-type furnace

When the fuel burns, hot gases enter under the first hood, connected directly to the firebox. Expanding, they cannot move up and stop in a limited space, where they cool over time, or go down, reducing traction and delaying the combustion process. Thus, the regulation of temperature and combustion power occurs independently.

The second cap creates additional thrust, as a result of which the solid fuel is first completely burned, and the resulting heat is stored due to the pyrolysis gases accumulated under the roof. Due to the fact that hot air does not evaporate instantly, but circulates inside the device, the efficiency of the heat source reaches 93%. In addition, there is a tangible saving of fuel (briquettes, firewood or coal), and soot deposition is minimized.

The construction of "blacksmiths": schemes and orders

Creating a "product" for the mass user, the author took care of the practical application of his research, creating a huge set of diagrams and drawings. For the accurate construction of a great many modifications of bell-type furnaces, orders are used - step-by-step diagrams depicting each row of bricks.

Ordering the stove for a bath

Unlike Russian stoves, "blacksmiths" are smaller in size and, accordingly, take up a minimum of space. The number of bricks is also reduced, which is explained by the large amount of free internal space. Due to the optimal wall thickness, they warm up quickly, and what is especially valuable, they cool down rather slowly. If you carefully analyze the dome arrangements, you will see how much empty brick space is inside the structure.

Multifunctional version of the Kuznetsov furnace

Part of the free space is occupied by caps fixed in a horizontal or vertical order, not necessarily symmetrical. The size of the domes can be the same or different. The vertical arrangement is often used to save space in the room, especially if an oven or dryer is planned. Due to the variability of the installation of domes, it is possible to build a structure of any shape, designed for a specific room or special conditions.

The space under the second hood is often used for mounting heat exchangers, hobs, bread ovens, etc. In projects drawn up for a bath, a hot water tank or heater is installed in it.

If you correctly “read” the order drawn up by an experienced master, you can achieve amazing results. For example, to maintain room temperature in a house made of logs in winter, you need 2 fireboxes (in the morning and in the evening), only 5-6 logs each, in the off-season, one firebox is enough.

Orders for building a fireplace

Various modifications of bell-type furnaces

The followers of I. Kuznetsov created countless options suitable for self-construction, but each time they started from one of the standard projects. Consider some of them that can be used to improve a private house or cottage.

Heating facilities for the home

There are more than 25 standard schemes for the construction of heating structures inside house structures, some of which perform only a heating function, but some options have useful additions in the form of a stove bench or oven.

The place is chosen not near the wall, but in the center of the room, which entails a number of advantages:

• uniform and efficient heating of the room;
• lack of a cooling element (outer wall of the house);
• the possibility of free access for maintenance (for example, cleaning the vaults);
• the possibility of adding built-in elements (hob, dryer, hot water circuit).

The aesthetic perfection of bell structures should be noted: they take up a minimum of space and look elegant, despite the presence of such details as the foundation. Modifications made "under the ceiling" have a short pipe (a characteristic feature of many "blacksmiths") and slender outlines. The design possibilities are endless and depend solely on the taste and wishes of the homeowners.

Cooking modifications for the kitchen

It is not so difficult to turn a heating brick device into a cooking one - just add a metal stove with a pair of burners and slightly change the design of the base. However, full-fledged cooking facilities include several additional horizontal surfaces (trays or grates for drying), as well as an oven.

Cooking "blacksmith" in the interior of a village house

In terms of the quality of cooked dishes, the dome device is not inferior to the branded gas or electric equipment that city residents are used to using. Among the typical designs there are specially created for baking bread, which are called bread. For farmers, gardeners and inveterate gardeners, this is a real find: you can steam berries, dry fruits with mushrooms, and preserve vegetables according to old recipes.

Obviously, the cooking device is also a source of heat, so its more accurate name is heating and cooking. The best place for installation is a kitchen or a large hall, which combines both a kitchen room and a dining room, and sometimes a living room - in Russian national traditions.

Sauna stoves

To designate bath devices, there is a special marking - BIC. Even outwardly finished "blacksmiths" compare favorably with other heaters. On the one hand, the material for manufacturing is carefully selected, on the other hand, the installation of the dome does not interfere with the construction of neat and practical configurations. For example, bathhouse owners appreciated the rounded corners, which minimize injury and burns.

Sauna stoves

By installing the stove in the right place, you can simultaneously heat and supply several rooms with hot water - a steam room, a shower room, a dressing room (or a rest room). Moreover, the parts of the structure that open into a particular room will perform various functions: create steam for a steam room, heat water for a washing room, moderately heat a dressing room.

In the bath, the principle of long-term preservation of heat, characteristic of blacksmiths, is perfectly implemented. Maintenance is reduced to a minimum, as logs or briquettes need to be thrown occasionally - and all thanks to the domed design.

Fireplaces to decorate the living room

Kuznetsov's fireplaces, unlike most dome modifications, have an open design and a reduced efficiency, but their heat transfer parameters are quite high. The cap prevents the rapid release of heat into the chimney, retaining hot gases in the upper part of the building. When using a conventional fireplace, at the end of the combustion process, the room begins to cool, with bell heating, a comfortable microclimate is maintained in the room for a long time.

Construction of a fireplace in the order of Kuznetsov

The possibilities to change the design and decorate the facade of the fireplace are endless. In addition to the usual shelves, you can build a number of functionally useful elements - small dryers for shoes or clothes with niches and hooks, as well as clad the outside with ceramic tiles or tiles. It is interesting that fireplaces are included in the design of some multifunctional buildings.

Outdoor Cooking Solutions

Especially for outdoor cooking, entire oven complexes have been developed that are distinguished by functionality and ease of use. The simplest design is a brick mini-barbecue structure. It keeps the heat for a long time and allows you to increase the cooking period.

Barbecue, built according to the drawings of Kuznetsov

Fans of summer cuisines, shish kebabs and grilled dishes will be pleased with the structural variety of outdoor ovens with layered, pyrolysis, lower and upper combustion types. There are models that allow you to simultaneously fry, bake, stew several dishes at once. Order options for bell-type ovens with an oven or grill can be found in the public domain or on the official website of the author.

Having decided to build a furnace according to one of Kuznetsov's orders with your own hands, get ready for careful and scrupulous work. On the diagrams you will find a graphic representation of each row, however, before starting laying, you need to get acquainted with the features of the technique, in particular:

• selection and pre-treatment of bricks;
• purchase of metal parts (plates, dampers, doors, valves);
• determining the most suitable location;
• preparation of the base and foundation;
• the possibility of equipping a chimney, etc.

Fireclay refractory bricks (Sh-5, ShB-8) are recognized as the best material for the internal laying of "blacksmiths", and ceramics (M-150) for external design. To reinforce brick walls, metal elements (reinforcement, wire) are used. In order for the furnace to function with maximum heat output, experienced craftsmen hone not only their skills, but every brick - literally. They polish every detail, which is why projects made by professionals look flawless.

Firebrick masonry

A selection of thematic video tutorials

Construction of a heating and cooking furnace

The process of erecting a "blacksmith" with a bench

Heating and cooking option project

The construction of the Kuznetsov furnace is one of the most successful solutions for a country or village house. A professional dome structure made according to your order will become an indispensable assistant and decoration of the interior. If you want to build a heat source yourself using the order, start with a simple option, such as a summer cooking stove.

The first Kuznetsov bell-type furnace was built in the 60s of the last century. The unique development belongs to Igor Kuznetsov, whose main activity is the design and improvement of brick ovens for heating.

Kuznetsov's heating furnaces are efficient and reliable designs that use various fuel materials.

Currently, more than 150 types of furnaces have been invented, each of which has a high efficiency rate - from 80 to 94%.

Characteristics

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces have a number of distinctive characteristics and advantages that distinguish them from the main competitors in the home and bath heating equipment market.

The principle of operation of such a device is quite simple: the lower level (tier) and the firebox are a single structure - a cap, which is designed to effectively move gases formed during the combustion of fuel. In this case, the accumulation of light gases is carried out at the top of the cap, and heavy gases - at the bottom. Gases with an average heating temperature are concentrated in the middle.

"Kuznetsovka" made of bricks provides for a long-term retention of heated air inside the hood for efficient heat accumulation inside the room, and then the rapid removal of combustion waste through the chimney.

A feature of the furnace is to maintain the maximum combustion temperature. In addition, the Kuznetsov stove has a high efficiency, which is several times higher than that of a classic Russian stove.

The specific advantages of such ovens are as follows:

• High efficiency - up to 94%.
• High temperature mode of combustion of the fuel material.
• Fast accumulation and long keeping warm.
• Low level of soot deposition.
• Ease of care and unpretentiousness.
• Insignificant material consumption with high heat output.
• Possibility of additional embedding of a contour for hot water supply.
• Increased draft with small dimensions of the chimney.
• Attractive design and wide choice of constructive forms. An improved version is the two-bell Kuznetsov furnace, which can be designed for any type of room.
• Fast distribution of thrust between channels in automatic mode.

Kinds

According to the purpose and design features of the "blacksmith" can be divided into several types:

• Heating. The devices are designed for efficient and safe space heating.
• Cooking. Used for cooking. This includes ovens for baking bread and bakery products.
• Bath. The Kuznetsov sauna stove is designed for simultaneous heating of the main bath rooms. Such devices have high heat transfer with minimal fuel consumption.
• Street. Oven complex, consisting of a grill or barbecue, for outdoor cooking.
• Fireplace. The equipment is used as a decorative element of the interior or as an additional heating option. Some are equipped with special sunbeds for a pleasant pastime.

The most popular are complex devices that are distinguished by their multitasking. A striking example is the Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove, which is intended both for heating residential premises and for cooking.

Despite their functional features, all stoves work on the same principle - the efficient distribution of heated gases in the hood into separate streams.

It is noteworthy that furnace hoods can be equipped with additional equipment - electric heaters, hot water tanks, steam generators, an oven and a stove.

A well-designed and erected Kuznetsov sauna stove will provide reliable heating in all functional areas: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a rest room. In addition, it will allow you to quickly heat water, accumulate hot steam and purify the air.

What explains the high efficiency of furnaces

The reasons why bell-type ovens are so efficient compared to traditional devices are as follows:

• Correct distribution of flue gases according to the heating temperature outside the furnace compartment.
• A large number of caps contributes to the retention of hot gas and more efficient heat accumulation inside the device.
• The correct location of the cap helps to contain the heated gases and maintain a high temperature regime. This leads to the collection of products of combustion of fuel in one place and a decrease in the level of soot formation in the chimney. For this reason, "blacksmiths" do not require frequent cleaning of soot.
• The heat exchanger is located in the hood, so it does not retain the heat produced by the furnace and does not reduce the level of efficiency.

It is not so easy to build a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, but all that is required from the master is to follow clear step-by-step instructions.

Materials and tools

To equip a brick "blacksmith" for a house or bath, first of all, you should prepare working drawings and orders. The author himself has developed over a hundred different furnaces with step-by-step instructions for their construction.

The ordering of the furnace is a complete guide that clearly explains the correct laying of each individual row in the prescribed sequence. Beginning craftsmen are advised to strictly follow the orders of Kuznetsov's furnaces, which will allow them to build a reliable and durable structure.

For construction work, it is necessary to prepare the basic materials and working tools:

• solid red fire-resistant brick;
• fireclay brick;
• fire-resistant clay of medium fraction;
• mountain sand (twice the volume of clay);
• steel wire;
• metal corner;
• structural elements: doors for a blower, fireboxes, a grate for a grate, a valve, a stove for a hearth.

Attention! If desired, instead of clay and sand, you can purchase a ready-made masonry mixture, which is sold in specialized stores. It has all the necessary proportions of the main components.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov's furnaces have their own subtleties of construction, therefore, before starting work, the masonry scheme of the device should be carefully studied.

Construction technology

Even beginners can build such a device on their own, the main thing is that the construction technology and the working scheme are observed.

Foundation arrangement

The first stage is the construction of the foundation, which can be planned during the construction of a house or a bath. Otherwise, it is necessary to prepare a new base for the stove.

The base should exceed the dimensions of the furnace by 15 cm along the entire future perimeter, which will ensure high strength and wear resistance of the finished structure. For the arrangement of the foundation, it is worth considering the following:

• The base for the stove is not recommended to be connected with the foundation of the house or bath.
• When the furnace is located along the wall, the foundation must be 6 cm away from the main base, and the distance between them is protected by a sand layer.
• To protect the base from high humidity and groundwater, reliable waterproofing is required - a sand cushion at the bottom of the trench and a rolled roofing material over the concrete layer.
• To increase the strength, the foundation must be reinforced with a special reinforcing frame.

Brickwork

After the concrete foundation has completely hardened, you can proceed to the brickwork. The Kuznetsov furnace is correctly lined up only if the order proposed by the inventor is followed.

Before starting masonry, it is worth considering the location of the chimney pipe inside the room and outside on the roof, which must meet certain requirements. Recall that any Kuznetsov furnace has ready-made drawings, in accordance with which construction work is carried out.

1. Fireclay fire-resistant bricks are used for laying the first two rows. A special one is being prepared to connect the bricks. It is not recommended to use a mixture prepared for arranging the foundation. After completing the laying of the 1st row, the corners are checked, each of which should be 90 degrees. From the 2nd row, the arrangement of chimney channels begins.
2. To improve the heat output of the device, it is recommended to install 4 cleaning channels for the channels - in the back, in the blower and on the sides. The sizes of cleanings are chosen individually. At this stage, the horizontalness of all surfaces is checked using a corner.
3. From the 2nd row, an ashpit and a blower are formed. These working chambers are designed to clean the ash and create the necessary draft for combustion. Brickwork is carried out in a checkerboard pattern with a seam 6 mm thick. To fix the bricks, a solution based on refractory clay is used.
4. Next, partitions are installed for internal compartments, a wall is formed between the blower and the working part of the furnace. When laying the 5th row, a grate is installed, the thickness of which is determined by the degree of loading of the chamber with fuel. When installing the grate, technological gaps of 7 mm are observed between the grate for the grate and the outer wall of the stove. The grille is mounted at a slight angle with respect to the door.
5. Here is the installation of the door for the firebox. When arranging the combustion chamber, it is additionally lined with fireclay bricks, which are laid with an edge. This provides reliable protection of the outer walls of the furnace from high temperatures.
6. Until the 16th row, laying is carried out similarly to the previous rows. From the 17th row, a cap is installed, after which you can begin to equip the second chamber located above the first. It will be the second cap. At this stage, the cap is covered, and on the 21st row, passages are arranged that are directed along the inner walls on both sides.
7. The work is carried out in accordance with the proposed order until the 26th row, after which the upper part of the cap is securely closed with brickwork.
8. 24 hours after the completion of the masonry, a test run of the stove can be carried out with the addition of a small amount of fuel material. This will allow you to check the finished structure for tightness and the absence of gaps between the bricks. If even minor deficiencies are found, they must be eliminated immediately.

Any "blacksmith" must have a floating firebox, for the arrangement of which a special seam is made.

A dry seam in Kuznetsov's furnaces is a small technological gap in the extreme corner, almost at the bottom of the furnace. It provides a safe separation of gases in the furnace into cold and hot.

This process contributes to the unhindered rise of hot gases to the top of the hood with their subsequent cooling. Further, the cooled gases are discharged into the second hood and through the chimney to the outside.

1. The first hood must not be connected to the combustion chamber. This is due to the fact that the fuel material must burn separately - to create a high temperature regime. The connection of the hood and the firebox is allowed in a classic Russian stove with less efficient draft.
2. Each even row of brickwork should be fixed with metal wire to create additional strength and stability of the structure.
3. After completion of the masonry, it is recommended to treat the brick with a protective fire-resistant composition.
4. Decorative and functional elements of the metal furnace are installed taking into account the possible expansion when heated. The distance between them and the brickwork is protected by a special gasket.
5. The first furnace of the device is carried out at minimum temperatures with a small amount of fuel.
6. When heated, the brick expands, so the internal structure of the furnace made of refractory material must be designed so that there are technological gaps on each side.

The most accessible design of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace can be built with your own hands. When planning a complex and multifunctional device, the technology of its construction can also be complicated.

Ideas for the creation of super-economical furnaces by I. V. Kuznetsov are borrowed all over the world, including the USA and Europe. With a responsible approach, you can make one of the furnaces according to the Kuznetsov model with your own hands.

Application of the Kuznetsov furnace

For many years of inventive activity, IV Kuznetsov has developed about 150 models of furnaces designed for use in all spheres of human life without exception, where heat generation is required. By type of specialization "blacksmiths" are:

• heating;
• cooking;
• heating and cooking;
• bathhouses
• outdoor, designed for smoking food, barbecue and grilling;
• fireplaces with an open hearth, allowing you to admire the flames.

Examples of the execution of the Kuznetsov furnace

Advantages and disadvantages

The wide popularity of Kuznetsov's furnaces and the deep respect that people who understand the furnace business have for them are due to a number of advantages:

1. The efficiency of "blacksmiths" exceeds 80%, and for some models it can reach 95%.
2. Furnaces operate in high-temperature conditions, but at the same time they do without materials and technologies that are available only in the factory.
3. The high-temperature mode allows you to heat the furnace even with the most waste and low-quality fuel.
4. Again, due to the high combustion temperature, the fuel is almost completely oxidized, so soot is formed in minimal quantities. The oven may not require cleaning for several years.
5. The design of the furnace provides a very uniform heat transfer between the furnaces, while less material is required for it than in the construction of traditional technology.
6. In furnaces equipped with a heat exchanger, the heat for heating water is taken from the flue gases, and not from the furnace, so that the "blacksmith" can easily perform the function of a boiler without compromising performance.
7. The principle of operation of the stove provides good draft, so there is no need to build a high chimney.
8. "Kuznetsovka" is very plastic both in terms of design and in terms of design. That is, it can be easily adjusted to any room without sacrificing performance and economy.
9. The furnace is designed in such a way that after the firebox its chimney does not need to be covered with a windshield. Carbon monoxide poisoning is completely eliminated.
10. The design assumes a uniform distribution of heat in the furnace body, so cracks from local deformations do not develop in the masonry.

What can be said about the shortcomings? Technically, they are not, but something still needs to be taken into account. The Kuznetsov furnace cannot have massive walls - this would nullify many of its advantages. But at the same time, it is subjected to rather high thermal loads. Therefore, this unit must be carefully calculated and verified at the development stage and just as carefully, with scrupulous observance of all technology requirements, built. At the slightest deviation from the technical regulations, the blacksmithing will turn out to be very short-lived.

You can also fold a Russian stove with your own hands if you follow the detailed instructions. You will find them in our next article:.

Design and principle of operation

The inventor I. V. Kuznetsov took as a basis a bell-type furnace, known for its efficiency.

It looks like a bell-type furnace - a prototype of the Kuznetsov model

The high efficiency of such furnaces is due to the nature of the movement of flue gases. If in channel furnaces they are drawn into the chimney, often without having time to give off heat to the brick mass, then in bell-type furnaces they swirl for a long time under the arch of the hood until they cool down. Only then do they fall down to the outlet, from where they then enter the chimney. The cap filled with gases simultaneously plays the role of a view: cold air from the chimney cannot penetrate into it, just as water cannot fill an inverted diving bell. This effect is called the gas view.

The inventor worked with a complicated version of such a furnace with two hoods.

Scheme of a two-bell model

As can be seen, the caps are connected in series, that is, the flue gas heat is removed in a two-stage scheme. Previously, the construction of furnaces with such a design was not taken very willingly - not only because of the complexity, but also some undesirable features. So, for example, thrust in the second cap can easily break the gas plug in the first one, negating the effect of the “gas view”.

The master dealt with this shortcoming in the following way. The furnace was equipped with the so-called downstream channels, laid around the heat-accumulating parts of the array. While the flame is burning in the furnace, the convective flow formed by it ensures the operation of the thrust in the normal mode. When the fuel is used up and the convection stops, the thrust will redistribute itself in such a way that the cold air flow will follow through the lower channels, and not through the heated body of the furnace.

This solution not only compensated for the instability of the gas view, but also turned out to be more reliable: the plug formed by the gases can be pulled out by a strong gust of wind, while in the Kuznetsov furnace, under any conditions, the draft is redirected away from the hot massif. In addition, due to the presence of downstream channels, there is no need to equip the ventilation of the room.

How does it work

Here is the sequence in which the processes take place in the Kuznetsov furnace:

1. Due to the air entering through the blower (pos. 1) in the furnace (pos. 2), the fuel burns, the resulting mixture of flue and pyrolysis gases rises into the lower hood (pos. 3). Under its arch (pos. 4), the pyrolysis gas finally decomposes into combustible components, which burn out here. This design provides the effect of self-regulation: with a strong burning of the flame, the gas plug increases and blocks the draft; due to the weakening of the draft, the combustion in the furnace also weakens, the gas lock, cooling down, decreases and the draft resumes.
2. Conditionally cold gases from the lower cap enter the upper one (pos. 5). If the furnace is round (this is the ideal shape for a two-bell scheme), then its body plays the role of the upper bell. In its upper part (pos. 6), carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxide are oxidized, so that the exhaust entering the chimney (pos. 7) mainly consists of carbon dioxide and water vapor. The gases entering the second hood are no longer super-hot - the temperature is from 200 to 400 degrees - and chemically aggressive, so a water heat exchanger made of ordinary structural steel can be installed here. The selection of heat for water does not change the operating mode of the furnace, since the high-temperature part - the furnace + the lower hood - are insulated with a brick wall.

Due to the high combustion temperature, the fireclay firebox in Kuznetsov furnaces should be made isolated from the main mass or, as they say, floating. None of its elements should be embedded in ceramic brickwork, otherwise the latter, even if there are expansion joints during the furnace, will break - the difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of these materials will affect.

The firebox must be surrounded by a so-called dry joint. This is a seam between fireclay and ceramic bricks, which, instead of clay mortar, is filled with asbestos or basalt cardboard lining.

An annular gap (L1) is arranged between the furnace and the lower hood, and another one (L2) - between the hoods. If the width of L2 is made larger than that of L1, the gas view will be more stable.

Calculation of the Kuznetsov furnace

"Kuznetsovka" is a very complex heating device and attempts to calculate it and design it on your own will not lead to anything good. You just need to choose from all the available options the most suitable for yourself - the author does not make secrets from his achievements. If the characteristics of the model you like do not indicate the heat transfer power, it can be calculated approximately: a stove that is heated twice a day, every sq. m of its surface gives off approximately 500 W of heat.

The OVIK-9 furnace, the manufacturing procedure of which we will consider, with dimensions of 1015x630x2100 mm, has a heat transfer capacity of 3.6 kW.

Model OVIK-9: general view

Preparatory work

First of all, you need to choose a place for the construction of the furnace. The easiest way to do this is before building a house - then both the stove and the building are designed together so that three or at least two rooms are heated. With a ready-made house, the situation is more complicated. In this case, they tend to build the furnace into an interior partition, since its introduction into a load-bearing wall requires complex calculations and dangerous labor-intensive work (part of the wall will have to be dismantled, keeping the load from overlapping with a system of lintels and columns).

You can, of course, limit yourself to a simple wall-mounted location, but then only one room will be heated.

A reinforced concrete foundation must be built at the selected location. Its dimensions must exceed the dimensions of the oven by at least 100 mm on each side. It is not allowed to combine the foundation of the furnace with the foundation of the building - both structures give a different draft and one of the bases will pull the other along, causing it to skew.

Under the furnace, a reinforced concrete foundation must be equipped

The depth of the foundation depends on the bearing capacity of the soil, the depth of its freezing, the method of building operation (periodically / constantly). Usually in buildings with year-round residence of people located on stable ground, the foundation is deepened by 400-600 mm. At the bottom of the excavation, gravel should be poured as a reinforcing layer, and a sand cushion should be placed on top of it.

Further, everything is done according to traditional technology - formwork is installed, the reinforcing cage is fixed and poured with concrete. It is necessary to proceed to the construction of the furnace only after the concrete has fully matured and gained sufficient strength - this usually takes about a month.

Before laying the 1st row, a waterproofing layer of two layers of roofing material or roofing paper should be laid on top of the foundation. The contours of the future furnace are applied on it with chalk - this will make it easier to navigate.

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

• trowel;
• level;
• mallet and other construction tools.

To divide the bricks, you will need a pickaxe hammer and a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Such a set of tools will be needed for work

The furnace will be built from two types of bricks: ordinary ceramic full-bodied with a brand of M150 (250x120x65 mm) and fireclay brand ShB-8 (250x123x65 mm) or Sh-5 (230x114x40 mm). Fireclay bricks will lay out the walls of the furnace.

When purchasing fireclay bricks, you should be very careful. Unscrupulous sellers can pass off an acid-resistant brick for it, which is similar in appearance, but does not withstand high temperatures. So it will not be superfluous to ask for a certificate.

Brick for laying the oven

It is often recommended to choose fireclay bricks by color - the darker, the better. But this rule does not always apply. If clay taken from different deposits was used, then the characteristics of a light brick may well turn out to be higher than that of a dark one. It is more correct to evaluate the quality of fireclay bricks according to the following criteria:

• the structure should be homogeneous and fine-grained - without pores and inclusions visible to the naked eye;
• when tapped with a metal object (light hammer or wrench), the brick should make a clear jerky and sonorous sound;
• when falling, it should break into large pieces (low-quality crumbles into small fragments up to sand).

For a structure with dimensions of 1015x630x2100 mm, 430 ceramic bricks (excluding the chimney) and 22 fireclay bricks will be needed.

How to prepare a solution

The solution is applied clay. The clay and sand used for its preparation should not have organic impurities that can lead to cracking of the seams. In clay, the presence of these impurities can be recognized by a clearly audible smell (it can even be pleasant) - normally, clay almost does not smell.

Sand should be used either mountainous or made by grinding brick - in these varieties, the content of organic impurities is minimal, or they are completely absent. Brick sand usually costs less than mountain sand, but it is not inferior in quality. Just pay attention to the following circumstance: for ceramic masonry mortar, sand from ceramic bricks is needed, and for fireclay, respectively, from fireclay.

Pay attention to the grade of clay. The solution for fireclay masonry should be prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Any clay with refractory properties is suitable for ceramic masonry, for example, gray or blue Cambrian, gray kaolin.

Clay of the same grade, but from different deposits, can vary greatly in viscosity, fat content and adhesive properties. Therefore, the solution recipe, namely the optimal ratio of sand and clay in it, should be selected empirically. In the case of using brick sand, this is done as follows:

1. A portion of clay weighing 1 kg should be filled to the top with water and left for a day.
2. After that, the muddy clay is kneaded with the addition of water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough and stops sticking to the hands.

• in the first - 10% of the volume of clay;
• in the 2nd - 25%;
• in the 3rd - 50%;
• in the 4th - 75%;
• in the 5th - 100%.

Each portion must be thoroughly mixed until smooth and dried for 4 hours. Don't forget to mark how much sand is contained where.

After that, each portion of the mortar should be rolled into the shape of a cylinder 30 cm long and 1–1.5 cm in diameter. They are all wrapped around a round blank with a diameter of about 5 cm. The test samples should now be dried for two weeks at room temperature and without drafts .

After that, it remains to evaluate each of the options:

1. If there are no cracks on the cylinder at all or they are in the form of a very fine mesh, such a solution can be used for any part of the furnace.
2. If the crack depth reaches 1-2 mm, the solution can withstand temperatures up to 300 degrees. This mixture can be used for laying a country fireplace or barbecue.
3. In the presence of deep cracks or gaps, the solution is considered unsuitable for use - the proportion of sand present in it is excessive.

Usually, about 0.2 cubic meters is spent on laying 500 bricks. m of a mixture of clay and sand.

Note! If you are not embarrassed by additional costs, you can purchase a ready-made mixture for preparing a furnace solution in a specialized store.

Having thus determined the optimal combination of clay and sand, they begin to prepare the solution:

• the required amount of clay (about 40 kg per 100 bricks) is again soaked for a day, kneaded to the consistency of the dough, but after that it is still rubbed through a sieve with a 3x3 mm cell;
• then, according to the recipe selected empirically, sand is added;
• gradually adding water, the solution is stirred until a creamy state;
• evaluate how the solution wets the trowel, and, if necessary, adjust its composition by adding a small amount of clay or sand.

What else is required

1. Furnace door, for example, brand DT-3, with opening dimensions of 250x210 mm.
2. Blower door, for example, WPC brand, with an opening of 250x140 mm.
3. Grate grate size 250x252 mm.
4. Cast iron cooking plate for two burners, size - 586x336 mm.
5. Doors measuring 510x340 mm in the amount of 2 pcs. - for the cooking chamber.
6. Gate valves with a flow area of ​​130x130 mm in the amount of 2 pcs. – for the cooking chamber and for switching between summer and winter operating modes.
7. Gate valve with a clearance of 250x130 mm - for a chimney.
8. Pieces of an equal-shelf angle 36x4 600 mm long (4 pcs.).
9. A piece of steel strip 40x4 mm, 600 mm long.
10. Steel sheet 3 mm thick, size 600x550 mm.
11. Steel sheet 3 mm thick, 500x700 mm in size, to protect the floor in front of the firebox.

Replace steel with any other non-combustible flooring, for example, ceramic tiles.

Ever dreamed of having a magical fireplace in your home? You can fold it by hand. And the following guide will help with this: .

Masonry: ordering and step by step instructions

The sequence of work looks like this:

The 1st row is laid out of 20 bricks, which should be an ideal rectangle with a strictly horizontal surface.

First row diagram

"Rectangularity" is checked by measuring the diagonals - they must be equal. In the absence of experience, the row must first be laid out without mortar, and only then, when everything is adjusted and checked, apply the mortar. The thickness of the seams should be 5 mm.

Advice. To make the stove look more attractive, install rounded bricks at the corners. It is not necessary to cut them yourself - such blocks are sold ready-made.

In the 2nd row, the first (lower) cap and the blower chamber originate. Two halves of the brick are laid without mortar and slightly pushed out. When the masonry is completed, these bricks will need to be removed, which will make it possible to clean the base of the cap from mortar splashes and brick fragments. After cleaning, the halves are finally planted in the solution.

Second row scheme

When the 2nd row is laid out (14 bricks are required), a blower door is installed on it, supporting it with several bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with an asbestos cord, which will simultaneously act as a seal and an expansion joint. It is fixed in the brickwork by means of a wire that is laid in the seams.

Having laid out the 3rd row according to the scheme (the bricks included in it should tightly fix the blower door), proceed to laying the 4th. Here, in addition to ceramic bricks, fireclay is used - we begin to lay out the side and back walls of the furnace.

Third row scheme

The blower door is covered with hewn ceramic bricks, looking outward, and hewn fireclay - looking inward. They must be separated by a thermal gap of 5 mm. You can arrange it in the following way: a gasket made of packaging corrugated cardboard is laid between the bricks - it just has the desired thickness; when kindling, the cardboard will burn out and the gap will form by itself. Temperature gaps must be provided wherever fireclay bricks are adjacent to ceramic ones.

Fourth row scheme

In row No. 5, the fireclay bricks that form the side walls of the furnace are slightly shifted so that the bricks of the 4th row under them form a shelf 10–15 mm wide for the grate. The bricks should be moved apart so that a gap of 5 mm remains between them and the grate, which is necessary for the free expansion of the heated metal.

Fifth row scheme

The brick that forms the front wall should be cut at an angle.

In the same row, the formation of a vertical channel connecting both caps begins.

When the row is laid out, the grate should be installed in its place, filling the gap between it and the bricks with sand.

Installation of grate

In parallel with laying the 6th row, you need to install and fix the furnace door. Direct contact of its frame with a brick is not allowed - it is necessary to lay an asbestos cord as a gasket. From below, the door frame can be fixed with wire, but a more reliable element is required from above - the wire will quickly burn out. Instead, a steel strip is used.

Sixth row: installation of the furnace door

When laying row No. 7 on the side of the brick that forms the back wall of the furnace, a gap of 20–30 mm wide is left. This is the beginning of a dry seam.

Scheme of the seventh row

Having laid row No. 8 according to the scheme, proceed to laying the 9th row. At this stage, a channel is formed that connects the firebox with the lower hood. Lilac color indicates bricks in the side walls of the furnace, the upper faces of which should be 10 mm below the plane of the row. An asbestos strip 10 mm thick will need to be laid on the left wall, so that it is flush with the plane of the row.

Eighth row scheme

Pay attention to how the furnace door is blocked: the bricks are cut at an angle to make the masonry “in the castle”.

Ninth row diagram

When laying out the 10th row, it should be remembered that ceramic bricks must be laid on an asbestos lining (it covers fireclay bricks in the furnace wall) without mortar.

Tenth row of order

In the ceramic bricks surrounding the firebox, it is necessary to make a cutout for the hob. Its dimensions should be such that a temperature gap of 5 mm remains around the slab, that is, the bricks will need to be cut by about 10 mm. And in the contact zone of the hob with fireclay bricks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. Such bricks, cut at an angle, are located in front and on the right (indicated in orange).

If the slab is equipped with stiffening ribs from below, it is necessary to additionally cut out grooves in the brick for them - so that the slab is supported on the brick along the entire edge. Install it immediately after laying the row - on an asbestos cord soaked in clay mortar. The gaps between the slab and the bricks are filled with sand.

Near No. 11, the walls of the cooking chamber begin. A door for it is also installed here, the frame of which must be wrapped with an asbestos cord. For fixing, you can again use the wire.

Scheme of the eleventh row

Rows 12, 13 and 14 do not need comments - just lay out according to.

After laying out the bricks of the 15th row, the cooking chamber is covered with a steel sheet 3 mm thick and 600x550 mm in size with a cutout for the exhaust duct. From above, the sheet is strengthened with 4 segments of the corner and a steel strip. The steel ceiling prevents various small debris from getting into the food, which could pour into it from the brickwork.

Installing the hob

In the bricks of the 16th row, framing the exhaust and front vertical channels, cutouts are made for the valves, taking into account a 5 mm temperature gap.

Scheme of the 16th row

When the row is laid out, the latches are installed in place.

Valve installation

After the 17th row, the formation of the upper cap begins (18th row). Here, too, it is necessary to leave slightly extended halves without mortar, by removing which it will be possible to clean the base of the cap from the mortar and various debris that fell during the laying process. After cleaning, the removed bricks are coated with mortar and finally installed in their place.

The eighteenth row of the order - the beginning of the formation of the cap

Rows from the 19th to the 27th are laid out according to the order.

In the 28th row, the main chimney valve is installed. Under it, cutouts should be made in the bricks with a depth of 10 mm (indicated in lilac) and such a width that a temperature gap of 5 mm remains around the valve body.

Scheme of the 28th row

The valve must be installed immediately after laying out the row, and it is laid on the mortar.

Installing a flue damper

In rows No. 29 and 30, the furnace is blocked, and next to No. 31, a built-in pipe with a smoke outlet into brick (270x140 mm) begins.

Packed tube formation

The finished oven must be thoroughly dried. To do this, it is kept for some time with the doors and valves fully open. Things will go faster if you hang an electric light bulb with a power of 200-400 watts in the furnace. It will provide not only heat, but also a steady convective flow, which will remove all moisture in a short time.

The first furnace should be made with a small portion of fuel - the fire must first harden the walls of the furnace.

You should not take on the finishing of the furnace before it has fully worked out the first season - the decorative coating may be damaged during shrinkage processes.

Operation in various modes

In summer mode, the Kuznetsov stove turns from a heating and cooking oven into a cooking one. To do this, it is enough to open a special valve (it is called the valve of the summer run), after which the flue gases will enter the chimney directly, bypassing the caps. Accordingly, only the hob will be heated.

The temperature inside the cooking chamber can be regulated by a damper installed on the exhaust channel extending from it. By closing the valve and the door of the chamber, it can easily be turned into an oven. For ease of use, shelves for baking sheets can be fixed in the walls.

If you need to quickly warm up the room or dry out, the door of the cooking chamber is opened. At the same time, the temperature on the burners remains high enough for cooking.

Video: building a two-bell oven with your own hands - part 1

Video: part 2

The Kuznetsov furnace has the highest technical characteristics, but at the same time it is quite affordable for a master in the novice class. But experienced stove-makers should be careful - they often overestimate their knowledge and do something in their own way, neglecting the recommendations of the inventor. Such deviations are not allowed - as was said, the Kuznetsov furnace is calculated with high accuracy and must be built just as accurately. Follow the instructions in the article, and you will be insured against errors.