Insulate a private house from the outside with your own hands. Insulation of the house from the outside: selection of materials, main standards and installation methods. About foamed polymers

The essence of the question of how to insulate the walls outside in a private house is not only familiarization with the technology this process. The right choice of insulating material is extremely important. Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the house, you need to carefully study specifications proposed heaters and rules for working with them.

To choose the right way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you need to take into account such important points, as the climatic conditions of the region at the location of the house, the material from which it was built, the intended finish, the main purpose of the house. A country house, which is almost never used during the cold season, there is no need to insulate as carefully as a house or cottage for permanent residence.

Among the many materials offered, choose exactly the insulation for the walls of the house outside, which will be most effective in a particular case. The main technical characteristics of the material should be selected according to the above parameters. These are thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, vapor permeability, strength, biological and chemical stability and Fire safety, as well as high density insulation.

The thickness of the selected material is determined according to the instructions and recommendations of GOST and SNiP. This takes into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, the power of the heating system, the size and number of window and doorways and some other criteria. Thinking about how to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you should remember the following types of wall insulation:

extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
basalt slabs;
cellulose insulation;
liquid polyurethane foam.

Almost all heaters for the exterior walls of the house, except for the last one, do not require special skills when working with them. The technology for mounting them is quite simple and understandable to the average homeowner.

Preparation for wall insulation

To insulate the house outside with your own hands, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

plumb lines and beacons;
construction roulette;
building level;
technical knife;
electric drill or hammer drill;
drills and drills of the required size;
a hammer;
screwdriver;
brushes and rollers.

Warming outside a wooden house or any other begins with surface preparation. The exterior walls of the house must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small debris. If the existing plaster or thermal insulation has become unusable, it is better to remove it by clearing the surface of the walls to the ground. The prepared wall must be primed using a deep penetration compound.

A special mesh will help to evenly lay the insulation for the walls outside. For its device, a thick thread is pulled along the upper edge of the wall. Plumb lines are hung to it. Horizontal threads are stretched between them, parallel to the upper thread. Such a grid will help to evenly equip the frame and lay the insulation.

Highlights of insulation work

First, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier material. Then a heater, on top of which is laid windproof film. This film promotes the removal of moisture from the wooden wall and prevents its penetration from the outside. Final stage- finishing. It could be decorative plaster, siding or other finishing material.

The insulating coating of the outer walls of the house is a multilayer structure. Its main components, located on the surface of the walls, are:

plaster;
fixing primer;
adhesive composition of high adhesive properties;
actual heater;
reinforcing putty or special glue;
polymeric or mineral decorative plaster;
acrylic paint.

Apart from adhesive composition for fixing the insulation are used:

plastic dowels;
metal cores with plastic insulated heads.

Warming in this way provides reliable protection from cold, moisture, steam. At the same time, the total weight of the structure is relatively small. Capabilities finishing practically unlimited. The main thing is that the insulated wall is absolutely even and can withstand a load of about 35 kg per 1 sq. m. When mounting such insulation, the main point is to protect the inner layers from moisture.

Another method of insulation is a hinged ventilated facade. In this case, an air cushion (gap) with a thickness of at least 6 cm must be left between the insulation and the wall of the house. Facing material in this case, it is mounted on a base of supporting profiles and brackets. This method does not require preliminary alignment of the walls.

Penoplex is a very easy-to-use, high-quality insulating material. For insulation of external walls, penoplex brand "31" or "35" is usually used. Prepared walls are covered with fresh plaster mixture on which foam sheets are glued. They need to be aligned using the grid described above and pressed lightly to improve adhesion.

Additional protective layer plaster is applied over the insulation. The next layer is a mesh of alkali-resistant fiberglass. When the top layer of plaster dries, the walls are primed. Now you can start finishing work.

It is easy to insulate the house from the outside with penoplex with your own hands, the video material found on the Internet will help you see with your own eyes all the subtleties of this process.

Insulation with sandwich panels

Some homeowners still doubt whether it is possible to insulate the house from the outside using the so-called "sandwich panels". However, this material is gaining more and more popularity. This is a three-layer building structure in which the insulation is located between two sheets of cladding. A house covered with sandwich panels does not require additional finishing. The panels themselves are resistant to corrosion, atmospheric influences and mechanical damage. The installation of this material is facilitated by a small specific gravity.

For the installation of wall sandwich panels you will need:

sealants;
flashings;
corners;
fixing material.

Sandwich panels are attached to the wall of the house using a frame made of wood or reinforced concrete. Docking of panels among themselves is provided with tongue-and-groove connection. Seams and joints are additionally sealed with special mastic, tape, gaskets or polyurethane foam. Mounting foam is poured into the end seams or mineral wool is laid. On top are special flashings. Around window and door openings, at corners and joints with ground floor are located corner panels or corner profiles are used.

Insulation under siding

Siding is one of the most popular and inexpensive modern materials for finishing a private house. To carry out such a finish correctly, you must first choose a heater for the walls of the house outside under the siding. This is also necessary in order to increase the service life of the building and its exterior finish. The main criteria for choosing an insulating material are the design of the house and the cost of the insulation. Most often, under the siding fit:

fiberglass;
penoplex;
polyester foam;
mineral wool.

Many homeowners prefer to insulate the house outside with mineral wool under the siding. It's reliable durable material having a small specific gravity. Mineral wool has such valuable characteristics as:

environmental friendliness;
thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
soundproofing.

Mounting mineral wool, subject to certain rules, will not be difficult.

Installation of insulation under siding can be carried out in a budgetary way or using interframe insulation. Both options require advance preparation.

First, the outer surface of the walls is prepared. They need to be cleaned of old coatings, dust and debris. Wooden walls must be treated with an antiseptic or engine oil waste. After that, the wood should dry out. Therefore, work is best done in warm, dry weather.

The treated dried walls are covered with a waterproofing layer with an overlap (from 10 to 15 cm). It is fixed with a construction stapler. Scotch tape is applied at the joints.

Next, the crate is mounted on the walls. It might be ready metal structure or homemade from wooden slats or bars. The distance between the rails is determined by the width of the insulation. It must be laid tightly without any voids. The crate is mounted perpendicular to the intended laying of the insulation.

Soft insulation is cut and placed between the elements of the crate. For its fastening, special "fungi" are used. Solid tiled insulation begins to be laid from the bottom up. The bottom slabs are laid 10 cm above the top edge of the plinth. Such a heater is attached with mounting glue.

A windproof coating is laid on top of the insulation. It is fastened with a stapler to the crate (a step of at least 50 cm) with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The connecting seams are glued with adhesive tape.

Next, another crate is mounted, on which the siding is attached. The elements of the upper crate are attached with a screwdriver to the lower structure perpendicularly. Thus, a ventilated gap of 0.2 to 3 cm is created, depending on the thickness of the bars. The second crate is mounted from elements of a smaller section. Its main purpose is to press the wind insulation to the insulation, and all structural elements to the wall surface. To protect against rodents, a fine-mesh metal mesh is applied over the foam insulation.

Now you can mount the siding - vinyl or metal. Vinyl panels are cheap but less durable. They require careful care. High price metal panels fully justified by their strength, durability and reliability.

The solution to the question of how to insulate a wooden house from the outside with your own hands begins with the construction of a primitive crate of wooden planks. They are installed vertically, the step between them is equal to the width of the insulation. The layers of insulation are attached to the slats of the frame with the help of special plastic dowels.

Warming a private house from the outside is a simple process. The main thing is to choose the right insulation and other materials, prepare everything you need in advance and follow the instructions exactly during work. A well-insulated house acquires additional strength.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Warming the house from the outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure that you can handle on your own, even without any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation raises a lot of questions, moreover, it requires strict adherence to technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below I will describe to you several ways to perform external insulation as efficiently as possible and without damage to the structure.

External insulation methods

Many people who encounter insulation for the first time do not know how best to place the insulation inside or outside. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, in private houses, for a number of reasons, external thermal insulation should be performed:

if you place the heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before the insulation. Moreover, a heat insulator will form in the space between the wall and the insulation;
from the inside it is impossible to provide thermal insulation of the ceiling, as a result of which the insulation is defective;
internal thermal insulation reduces living space.

Thus, the answer to the question posed above is unequivocal - internal insulation is performed only in cases of emergency.

So, if you decide to insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you will need dry heat-insulating material in the form of plates or mats for this purpose. As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as a heater. With their help, you can insulate the facade in several ways:

wet facade- the technology consists in gluing insulation and applying plaster over it. This method is widely used due to its relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and fragility, compared with other finishing methods;

hinged facade- is a frame to which facade materials are attached (siding, lining, facade, etc.). The insulation is located in the space between the finishing material and the wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time more expensive;
cladding with thermal insulation blocks, which can be made of wood concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, etc. It must be said that thermal insulation properties these materials are worse than polystyrene or, for example, mineral wool. However, they are more durable.

If, for example, you need to insulate an old wooden or country house frame house, then this method of insulation is best solution. Moreover, block insulation can be combined with other heat insulators.

Everyone should decide how and with what to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the situation, financial capabilities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you can see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we will consider in more detail all the insulation options described above.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to properly perform a wet facade. For this you will need the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or plates (mineral wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam);
special dowels for insulation ("fungi");
glue for insulation;
perforated aluminum corners
fiberglass mesh;
primer;
decorative plaster;
dye.

Before buying a heat insulator, people are always interested in - what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save money and use foam. If the structure is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool, which will serve as protection against fire.

The process of installing a heater with your own hands looks like this:

first of all, you need to prepare the facade for work - dismantle all the elements that will interfere with the installation of insulation;
then you need to dilute the glue with water according to the instructions on the package;
then the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue with "blunders" in the corners and in the center, which will give more opportunity to align the plates with respect to each other.

It should be noted that at this stage it is necessary to ensure a smooth vertical surface of the walls, therefore, in the process of gluing the insulation, you need to use a level and beacons (a horizontally stretched thread along the wall, along which each row of the heat insulator is aligned);

further, the insulation is additionally fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall directly through the slabs or mats. It is necessary to hammer in the dowels so that they are recessed and do not protrude above the wall surface;

according to the same scheme, slopes are pasted over, the only thing is that they are not fixed with dowels;
after that, the evenness of the walls should be checked by the rule, if necessary separate sections can be rubbed with a grater;
after that, perforated aluminum corners are glued to all external corners;
then the hats of the self-tapping screws are smeared with glue;
The next step is to glue the mesh. To do this, use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A mesh is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is drawn along it, as a result of which it is embedded in the adhesive composition.

I note that the mesh must first be cut into canvases of the required length, taking into account the fact that it should overlap and turn into corners;

after drying, the glue is re-applied to the surface of the walls with a thin layer. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
when the glue dries, the surface is treated with a primer using paint roller. The composition is applied in two passes;

after the soil dries, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and leveled with a small one. When the composition begins to set, the plaster is rubbed with small circular or reciprocating movements;
the final step is painting. There is nothing complicated in this procedure - the roller must be dipped in a bath of paint and then treated with a wall. The paint is applied in two layers.

This completes the work. It should be noted that this technology can be used to insulate not only a private house but also an apartment.

hinged facade

To make a hinged facade on your own is no more difficult than a wet one. To do this, prepare the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or plates;
metal profile or wooden beam for mounting the frame;
adjustable brackets;
vapor barrier film;
dowels for insulation;
finishing material for the facade.

Many people are sure that the cheaper the heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or polystyrene can be different quality. For example, cheap mineral wool can be exposed to moisture, and foam plastic can easily ignite and support combustion, so it is better to use materials from famous brands even if they are not the cheapest.

The instructions for warming look like this:

after preparing the facade, you must first perform installation. There are quite a few options for its design and location of the insulation in it. Most often, racks are mounted on brackets, between which mats or plates are placed.
I must say that the installation of the frame is the most critical stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks must be placed in the same vertical plane;

then a heater is laid between the racks and fixed with dowels;
then a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation. As a rule, it is fixed on the frame. To do this, you can use rails that are mounted horizontally, while the film is located between them and the racks;
at the end of the work, the frame is sheathed facade material, after which additional elements are installed - ebbs, corners, etc.

This completes the installation of the hinged facade with your own hands.

Facing with heat-insulating blocks

If you need to insulate an old, for example, log house, then it is better to build for it additional walls, which will serve as a heater. Of course, this will have to spend more time and effort, but the result fully justifies these costs.

There are quite a few options for cladding walls. The most common materials are:

blocks of Sibit (it is more correct to say aerated concrete, since Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which the people began to call the material it produces);
wood concrete blocks - made from wood chips mixed with cement;
gas silicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, lime is used as the basis for their composition. In addition, this material is obtained by autoclave;
from polystyrene concrete - contain foam granules in their structure;
from expanded clay concrete - contain expanded clay granules in their structure.

So that you can decide on the materials yourself and understand, for example, the better a block of gas silicate is in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will give a table with the main characteristics of these materials:

As we can see, some materials win in strength, others in thermal conductivity. For example, gas silicate block more durable than arbolite, but at the same time it is more heat-conducting.

Of course, an important factor The choice is still the price of the material. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cube, and polystyrene concrete material costs about the same. The price of gas silicate is a little cheaper - about 3,000 rubles per cubic meter.

The house cladding technology is as follows:

around the perimeter of the house is performed shallow foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information on the arrangement of such a foundation;
then the foundation is waterproofed with several layers of roofing material;
further along the perimeter of the house a wall is being erected. Since the blocks have big sizes, masonry is much easier than brick. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie flat and in the same plane, therefore, in the process of work, it is necessary to use the level, plumb lines and beacons;

if faced with wood Vacation home, after several rows, pins are laid in the facing wall, which are pre-hammered into a wooden wall. The pitch of the pins should be about a meter and a half.

Walls built from heat-insulating blocks need further finishing, for example, plastering. Therefore, this technology of insulation is rarely used. Most often it is used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen and insulate a garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can brick it and place it between the walls mineral mats. Of course, the costs in this case will be much higher, but it will not be necessary. additional finishing, and the building will acquire a solid and presentable appearance.

Here, in fact, are all the options for external insulation of houses that I wanted to acquaint you with.

Conclusion

As we found out, there are several ways of effective external insulation of houses, which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of the technology that will be optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to violate the sequence of actions described above and do the work carefully.

For more information, see the video in this article. If during the process of warming you encounter any difficulties or some points are not completely clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

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After the introduction of a new standard for the thermal protection of buildings, insulation has become relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of older buildings can do nothing but be prepared to pay rising energy bills. And the projects of new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003. There are several technologies that allow you to provide regulatory performance for buildings from any materials. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside in each case.

The house must be kept warm

Why external insulation, and not internal

The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the usable volume of residential and office premises.

Builders are guided by the standard, according to which the insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Warming from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can be carried out only in exceptional cases. For example, when it is impossible to carry out work outside due to structural features or the facade “belongs” to the house, which belongs to architectural monuments.

Video description

The result of the correct internal insulation at home on video:

Internal wall insulation is allowed provided that a durable and continuous vapor-tight layer is created from the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor gets into the insulation or onto the surface cold wall, then condensation is inevitable. And the reason for this is the “dew point”, which will move either inside the layer of heat-insulating material, or to the border between it and the wall.

Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against wetting the wall - water vapor will find a “way” at the joints of the film and attachment points

That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory guidelines- outside.

Popular thermal insulation materials

From a large list of thermal insulation materials, several of the most popular and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons can be distinguished. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and relatively low cost.

Styrofoam

Better known as "styrofoam". To be precise, in addition to plates, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.

Its thermal conductivity depends on density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. Popularity is explained by availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.

Styrofoam is considered low-flammable, and with the marking PSB-S - self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But in case of fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of "breathable" materials for insulating walls.

Insulation of the wall of the house from the outside with foam

Extruded polystyrene foam

It differs from polystyrene in a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the same polystyrene granules serve as raw materials. In some respects, it surpasses its "relative". It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), an average of 20-30% lower thermal conductivity (table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), several times lower vapor permeability and higher compressive strength. Thanks to this set of qualities, it best material when insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the "zero" floor. The disadvantages of EPPS are the same as those of polystyrene, and it costs more.

XPS is usually made "colored"

Stone, she is basalt, cotton wool

This is a subspecies of mineral wool, the raw material of which is rocks of stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured by the fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn and does not smolder (combustibility class NG). Refers to "breathable" materials - according to the new standard, this sounds like low "breathing resistance".

Mineral wool mats for wall insulation should be "hard"

But there are other materials for warming the house from the outside, which, although they are used less often, have their own advantages.

Thermal insulation materials - novelties on the market

Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are slightly more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.

Foamed polyurethane

Common polymer material"home use". Also well known as furniture foam (in the form of "soft" mats) or as a gap-filling foam. When insulating, it is also used in the form of plates or sprayed insulation.

Polyurethane foam boards have low tear holding capacity, so it is not used in systems " wet facade».

But it is a common heat-insulating material for the manufacture of sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. Such a panel is a heat-insulating board with a decorative layer already applied at the factory ( clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second - three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: on dowels / anchors ( open way) or on your concealed fixing system.

Three-layer thermal panel

Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, there was the only technology for applying such a layer - using professional installations working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).

PPU spraying on the basement of the house

Now in Russia for domestic use The production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), do-it-yourself insulation of 1 m2 is much cheaper than when concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises using professional equipment. And this option than to insulate the house from the outside is quite attractive, if literally 2-3 cm of the heat-insulating layer is missing.

Insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam "Teplis"

Ecowool

Relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology for insulating enclosing surfaces is based on cellulose fiber material, which is applied to walls using special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying with an adhesive binder on the wall with the crate installed (and subsequent installation of facade panels).

Of the traditional materials, glass wool (a subspecies of mineral wool) can be mentioned, but due to fragility and the formation of the smallest “dust” with sharp edges during installation, it was replaced by stone wool safe both during installation and operation.

The better to insulate the house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

If follow regulatory documents, there are two options for insulating a house from the outside by the number of structural and heat-insulating layers: two-layer and three-layer. And in the second case exterior finish panels or plaster are not considered as an independent layer, although their thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the structural material acts as the outer (third) layer.

Brick cladding with insulation

In addition to this classification, there is also a division according to the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.

brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible connections), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
wooden houses- Enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and with a ventilated air gap;
frame houses with thin-sheet sheathing - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with ventilated and non-ventilated air gaps;
blocks of cellular concrete- double layer walls brick cladding, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.

In practice, for the insulation of low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to a choice between a “wet” or hinged facade. Although, as heat-insulating materials, they consider exactly those recommended by the standard - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS as an alternative).

But each case has its own preferences.

Video description

Clearly about the choice of how to insulate the house from the outside in the video:

The better to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the material of the walls

For warming brick house there are no restrictions on the choice of technology. Different variants can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:

Facing brick. This is classic three-layer construction walls on flexible connections. Even using expanded polystyrene, they provide for the presence of a ventilated air gap for weathering water vapor and preventing wall materials from getting wet.
Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The first option is preferable ceramic brick vapor permeability is higher than that of foam. And according to paragraph 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the arrangement of layers should contribute to the weathering of water vapor in order to prevent the accumulation of moisture.

Wet facade scheme

Ventilated facade. with cladding wall panels or large-format porcelain stoneware on the crate. Insulation is traditional for all hinged facades - mineral wool.

Scheme of a ventilated facade

Wooden houses (log or timber) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using the hinged facade technology.

For them, you can find examples of the use of expanded polystyrene and plaster using the "wet facade" method. In this case, a ventilated gap is made between the wall and the foam plates using a remote crate. Although this loses the main advantage of the "wet facade" - the simplicity of design and installation.

How to calculate the thickness of the insulation

If you “flip through” offhand SP23-101-2004 or similar in content, but a later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that it is not so easy to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

Each building is "individual". During the development of the project and its approval, such a thermal calculation is done by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters is taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, the duration of the heated season, the average number of sunny days), the type and area of \u200b\u200bglazing at home, heat capacity floor covering, roof insulation and basement. Even the number of metal bonds between the wall and the cladding matters.

But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new norms introduced in 2003 are much tougher than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters of the "standard thickness" of insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And there is no need for precision calculations. There is such a scheme, which shows the equivalent dimensions of the thickness different materials(in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.

Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation

And then it's simple. They take the thickness of the wall from a certain material, see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the wall of the house from the outside should be added. Taking into account that the wet facade has another layer of plaster, while the ventilated facade has an air gap, plus the interior decoration of the facade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.

And the question of roof insulation, floors and choice good windows decide separately.

Even easier is to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.

How to properly install insulation on the facade

Before installation, the facade must be prepared: cleaned of old finish, remove dirt and dust, dismantle attachments engineering systems, remove ebbs and visors (you still have to change to wider ones), remove signs, signs and facade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips should be repaired, crumbling areas should be cleaned, a deep penetration primer should be applied.

Applying a primer

For reliable fastening of expanded polystyrene or rigid mineral wool mats in the wet facade system, the wall surface must be as even as the unevenness can be leveled with adhesive mortar. With a height difference of up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with irregularities from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of "cakes" on 40% of the slab surface.

The first row of plates is mounted with an emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are set with a shift of the vertical seam (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the plates do not intersect in their corners. Each plate is additionally fixed with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.

The surface of the plates before applying the plaster is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of the layer of adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.

The density of expanded polystyrene is chosen equal to 25-35 kg/m3.

Video description

Visually about the insulation of mineral wool in the video:

Russian mineral wool mats trademarks for the “wet facade” system, they must comply with index 175, imported ones must be labeled “facade” and have a density above 125 kg / m3.

Attention. In the "wet facade" system, the insulation is mounted in only one (!) layer. The vertical surface of two layers of "soft" slabs with a load in the form of plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be deluded by the arguments that the second layer of plates overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates "cold bridges".

Rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3 or more are used in the ventilated facade. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after they are attached to the crate, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.

The step of laying out the crate is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the crate, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.

The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.

Important. Size 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air gaps.

For ventilation of the layer in the cladding, inlets are arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bthe basement and outlets - under the roof eaves. The total area of the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of the wall.

Ventilation grilles in the wall

As a result - is it worth it to insulate

Home insulation is a profitable investment even in the short term. Invested funds will quickly pay off due to lower heating and air conditioning costs.

Our website also lists companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of houses Low-rise Country.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

If you want to insulate the house, then any specialist will tell you that it is better to do it outside. However, in some cases it becomes necessary to insulate the walls from the inside, for example, if the facade is already finished or the external insulation is not enough. Therefore, below I will tell you how to insulate the house from the inside so that this event is effective and does not lead to mold and destruction of the walls.

Features of warming the house from the inside

Many people who have not previously encountered insulation are interested in whether it is possible to place insulation on internal walls? Of course, this is perfectly acceptable, and, if the procedure is performed correctly, the house will become much more comfortable and economical in terms of heating.

after the installation of the insulation, the walls of the building will no longer be heated, as a result of which there is a possibility of cracks;
condensation occurs under the insulation;
decreases effective area premises;
there is no way to insulate the ceiling, as a result of which a cold bridge remains.

Therefore resort to this method should be used only in cases where it is really impossible to implement other options for insulation. If, despite these disadvantages, you still decide to carry out insulation from the inside, you must strictly adhere to the technology, which we will discuss below, especially when it comes to wall insulation.

If you insulate an extension, for example, a veranda, you can increase the living space of the house. The only thing before the extension is insulated, you need to eliminate the gaps in the windows and doors.

Warming technology

materials

So, if you take this work independently, then the first question that will arise in front of you is the better to insulate the walls inside. The most common are the following materials:

mineral mats - are an environmentally friendly fireproof material with vapor permeability. The cost of mineral wool is 1500-5000 rubles per cubic meter, depending on the brand and manufacturer;
expanded polystyrene - has a small weight and costs a little cheaper - its price ranges from 1000-3000 per cubic meter. True, expanded polystyrene is more fire hazardous and does not "breathe", unlike mineral wool, however, with good ventilation, this drawback does not matter.

In a wooden house, it is better, of course, to use mineral wool. If the house is brick, you can also perform insulation with foam.

In addition to insulation, you will also need other materials:

wooden slats with a section of about 20x20 mm;
wooden bars or a profile for mounting drywall;
adjustable brackets;
vapor barrier film.

It makes sense to insulate the house not only if you will live in it in the winter. If you insulate the garden house from the inside, then in the summer it will become cooler and more comfortable for relaxation. This is especially true of the thermal insulation of the roof, which is heated during the day under the sun.

Floor insulation

It is necessary to carry out insulation from the inside of the house in a complex manner, i.e. in addition to the walls, the floor and ceiling should also be insulated. Therefore, first of all, I will tell you how to carry out this procedure with the floor.

If the floor is wooden, the instructions for warming it are simple:

first of all, you need to dismantle the floor and place bars with a section of about 15x15 mm near the lag;
then the base is laid on the bars. To do this, you can use thin boards, moreover, they do not have to be fixed to the bars;
further, the resulting shields should be covered with a waterproofing film, which must be laid directly on top of the log. At the joints of the canvases, it is necessary to provide an overlap of about 10 cm;

after that, a heater is laid on the film, which should fit snugly against the logs, leaving no gaps. I must say that not only polystyrene or glass wool can be used as a heater, but also bulk materials, for example, expanded clay, ecowool or even sawdust;
laid on top of the heater waterproofing film. It also needs to be laid with an overlap, moreover, it is desirable to glue the joints with adhesive tape;
after that, you can lay boards on top of the log or other draft material.

For warming wooden floor can also be used natural material- reeds. To perform insulation with reeds with your own hands, you need to stock up on them with the onset of the first frost. Dry the stems well before use.

If the floor is concrete, you can make a dry screed with your own hands. To do this, you must perform the following steps:

first of all, a waterproofing film is laid;
further, beacons are installed to level the dry surface. Special beacons are used aluminum profiles, which are stacked on lumps of cement. To install beacons, you must use a level so that they are located in the same horizontal plane;

placed around the perimeter of the room damper tape, which prevents floor squeaks and other unpleasant moments;
after that, expanded clay is poured into the space between the beacons and leveled with a rule or just a board along the beacons;
sheets of plywood, chipboard or drywall are laid on top of the expanded clay, on which the finishing floor covering is subsequently placed.

Another floor insulation technology is to pour the screed directly onto the mineral mats. This is done as follows:

the base is waterproofed with a film;
then mineral mats are laid;
then waterproofing spreads over the mats;
beacons are mounted on top of the waterproofing and a screed is poured. At the same time, it is desirable to use fiber for reinforcement, and not metal mesh so as not to damage the waterproofing film.

On our portal you can find more detailed information on how to install beacons and pour the screed.

Wall insulation

Carrying out insulation inside the house Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the thermal insulation of the walls, since the effectiveness of this event largely depends on them. The wall insulation process is as follows:

first of all, it is necessary to fix the rails with a section of 20x20 mm on the wall. Most often, the slats are placed horizontally in increments of a meter and a half. To fasten the rails, you can use dowel-nails;
then a film is stretched over the rails. I note that it must be exactly stretched so that between the wall and the insulation is formed ventilation gap. The latter is necessary to remove condensate, which will certainly form in winter.
To fix the film, you can use a construction stapler;
further to horizontal rails should be attached vertical racks, between which the insulation will be located. The most difficult thing at this stage is to correctly install the racks so that they are located strictly vertically and in the same plane. It depends on how smooth the walls will turn out.
The step of the racks is the width of the insulation. Moreover, the latter should go in tightly so that it does not need to be additionally fixed;

after mounting the frame, you need to fill the space between the racks with insulation from the floor to the ceiling;
after filling the frame with insulation, another layer of vapor barrier film should be fixed on it;

at the end of the work, a finishing material is attached to the frame. If you are insulating a country wooden house, you can sheathe the walls. If you want to stick wallpaper or use other finishing materials, you should use drywall.

If the house is built of CBB, aerated concrete or other material that does not hold ordinary dowel-nails, special butterfly dowels or chemical fasteners should be used.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of thermal insulation of walls. However, the insulation of the house has not yet been completed.

Attic insulation

Finally, I will tell you how to properly insulate the attic. This procedure resembles floor insulation, however, there are some nuances.

I must say that the insulation of the ceiling can be implemented both from the inside with your own hands, and from the side of the attic. From the inside, the work is done as follows:

you need to start work with attaching a vapor barrier film to the floor beams and attic flooring;
then a heater is laid in the space between the beams and fixed with slats;
from below, another layer of vapor barrier is attached to the beams using a construction stapler;
at the end of the work, the ceiling is hemmed with drywall or other material.

By the same principle, attic insulation is carried out.

I must say that it is very difficult to insulate the ceiling from the inside alone with your own hands. Therefore, to perform this operation, it is better to call an assistant.

Attic insulation from the outside is carried out in the same way as floor insulation. In particular, loose thermal insulation materials that are mentioned above.

The heat insulator can also be placed between the floor beams if the house is two-story. This will provide sound insulation.

Here, in fact, are all the main nuances regarding the insulation of the house from the inside. Finally, I note that in order to achieve the maximum effect from insulation, you need to pay attention to windows and doors. In case of poor sealing, it will leave through the cracks a large number of heat, which can be seen if you look at the house through a thermal imager.

Conclusion

Warming the house from the inside, although it contains a number of disadvantages, nevertheless, allows you to make housing much more comfortable and economical. Moreover, if you do the work yourself, which, as we found out, is completely simple, then this will not entail large financial costs. The only thing, as mentioned above, is to adhere to the technology and perform thermal insulation carefully, without leaving cold bridges.

For more information, see the video in this article. If some points are not completely clear to you or you encounter difficulties in the process of warming your home, leave questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

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General provisions.

The point of insulation is not only to increase comfort in the house, but also to reduce heating costs. Therefore, it is worth choosing an economically viable way to save heat. Special interactive calculators make it possible to calculate the heat loss of a house before and after its insulation.

When it comes to insulation, there are two things to keep in mind. important rules. Firstly, it is better to place the insulation outside the walls. With such a scheme, the walls will accumulate heat in themselves and give it inside the room when the heating is turned off. At the same time, the microclimate in the rooms will not fluctuate very sharply when the weather and heating and ventilation modes change. If the insulation is located from the inside, then the walls will freeze through every winter, which will lead to a decrease in the service life of the entire building.

But this rule is true in relation to houses of permanent residence, as well as to country houses regularly visited in winter. With rare races, you will have to warm up the entire thickness of the walls of the house, which will increase heating costs.

Secondly, it is important to design the "pie" of enclosing structures in such a way that moisture does not accumulate in it. Condensation leads to the appearance of harmful mold, building construction begin to collapse, and the thermal properties of most heaters deteriorate.

We start warming from above

The attic floor is an outpost in the battle to keep your home warm and lower your heating bills. After all, it is known that warm air rises, and if the ceiling is cold, the cooling of the air will be intense. Signs of insufficient ceiling insulation may be thawed patches on a snow-covered roof, large icicles on overhangs on the north side of the roof. The presence of condensation on the structures of the attic is already a clear distress signal.

How to insulate the ceiling wooden beams? First you need to remove old insulation and dry all structures. It may be necessary to clean them of mold and treat them with bioprotective compounds. Then you need to lay the vapor barrier film. It is better to hem it below the beams, on the draft ceiling. But if this is not possible, then you can cover the ceiling with it from above. As a vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary thick plastic film, but it is better to buy a special one - it is not much more expensive, but stronger and more convenient to use. The vapor barrier layer must be sealed. Butyl rubber is used to glue the film sheets. adhesive tape or, in extreme cases, you can get by with metallized adhesive tape, which is somewhat cheaper. The edges of adjacent sheets of film are glued together with an overlap, and the edges of the extreme ones are glued to the walls.

Now you need to lay the heater. The choice of modern heaters is very large, but you can use traditional materials. For example, the cheapest option would be dry sawdust, sprinkled with a layer of 25-30 cm. To protect against mold and mice, they are mixed with lime.

Of the heaters produced by the industry, the most inexpensive option It's probably cellulose wool. It is made from waste paper with the addition of borax and boric acid. Thanks to these chemicals, cellulose becomes slightly combustible and resistant to decay. Usually this insulation, also known as "ecowool", is applied using blowing machines. In order not to call a team of specialists for this, some craftsmen adapt garden vacuum cleaners to apply ecowool.

But the ceiling can also be insulated manually. To do this, it is enough to pour the cotton wool out of the bag in small portions and fluff it with a conventional electric drill with a mixer attachment. The main thing is to stock up on a respirator, because there will be a lot of dust. For the Moscow region, the thickness of the layer of cotton wool over the floors should be approximately 25 cm. Manufacturers of this material advise increasing the thickness of the layer around the perimeter of the attic in order to protect it from freezing upper part walls.

Advantage bulk insulation in that they can be used on ceilings of any design and with any distance between the beams. Comparable in price to cellulose insulation - glass wool. But it is produced in rolls or mats of a certain width and requires an appropriate distance between the beams. This drawback has a more expensive analogue - basalt wool.

But on a smooth concrete floor, you can use any of these heaters. You just need to remember to put a vapor barrier under it.

Is it worth it to cover the insulation from above? Usually this is not necessary. In addition, open insulation dries better after accidentally getting wet. However, if necessary, the insulation can be covered with a superdiffusion membrane, which will allow the wool to dry out, protect it from accidentally spilled water and from blowing out.

Floor insulation

The wooden floor is insulated in the same way as the attic - either with bulk or cotton wool insulation. Only the vapor barrier here needs to be laid on top, from the side of the room, under the floor. From below, from the side of the underground, the insulated ceiling should be hemmed with a superdiffusion membrane. For such a design, it is very important that the underground is dry and well ventilated. If the air left in the basement is not enough for this, then it is necessary to increase ventilation, for example, remove the pipe from the underground to the roof. In extreme cases, you can try to remove the ventilation pipe from one of the ducts and fix it on the wall at a height of two to three meters. From above you need to install a bell, which will direct the air flow away from the facade.

To reduce the likelihood of moisture in the underground, you need to cover the soil under the house polyethylene film or ruberoid.

The concrete floor of the foundation can be insulated without dismantling the floors. It is enough to glue the foam plastic from the bottom of the ceiling (usually this polystyrene boards) with a thickness of 10-20 cm. There are cement-based adhesives for such work (they are designed for the “wet facade” system, but they are quite suitable here as well). Before starting work, you need to thoroughly clean and primed concrete surface overlap.

Instead of expanded polystyrene, you can use basalt wool with a density of 80 kg / m 3, and strengthen the fastening to glue with the help of dish-shaped dowels.

House wall insulation

Works on external wall insulation willy-nilly will be associated with the renovation of the facade. The insulation can be covered with a hinged facade ( vinyl siding or grooved board) or plastered (the so-called "wet facade"). There are a lot of subtleties in creating a “wet facade” that are difficult to take into account if you take up the matter for the first time. So for independent work it is better to use hinged facades.

The most popular insulation under the hinged facade is basalt wool. It is ideal for insulating houses made of timber, as it does not support combustion. High-quality basalt wool can get wet and dry several times without losing its properties. But still, it is better to keep it dry - wet cotton wool conducts heat well and ceases to function as a heater.

Sometimes, polystyrene foam plates are also attached under the hinged facade. But in this case, there is a risk that condensate will accumulate under them. It is better to use this insulation on walls made of silicate brick or concrete - materials with high thermal conductivity and low vapor permeability. The advantage of expanded polystyrene is that it is not afraid of getting wet, its fire-resistant types do not support combustion.

Under hinged facades ecowool is also used. In this case, it is applied using blowing machines with the "wet-glue method" - before application, it is moistened and mixed with glue. This mass adheres to the wall and, after drying, forms a seamless “fur coat”. This method is perhaps the most reliable for warming a log house or uneven walls from brick.

The use of all types of cotton wool insulation on the facade requires a ventilated gap. The wool is covered with a superdiffusion membrane, and a gap of about 3 cm must be left between the membrane and the outer skin, which is set by the thickness of the crate.

Insulation of the house from the inside.

There are cases when the choice of insulation and methods of its installation is limited. For example, if you need to insulate the walls in an apartment on the ninth floor. Here you will need heaters that do not allow water vapor to pass through and do not accumulate moisture. The choice is small. These are foam glass blocks, extruded polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam.

Foam glass can be plastered - it will turn out strong and warm wall. Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) has a glossy surface and does not adhere well to the wall with cement adhesive. If the plaster on the wall is even, then it is better to use not cement glue, but glue-foam (similar in composition and packaging to ordinary mounting foam). It will provide a tighter fit of the insulation to the wall and a connection more resistant to deformation. All seams between the insulation boards must be sealed with polyurethane foam. There are also special adhesives for this material.

From above, EPPS can be plastered or covered with plasterboard sheathing.

The most affordable insulation for indoor use is polyethylene foam and its variety - foil PPE. The latter is practically indispensable for the insulation of walls and ceilings of temporary and technical structures ( construction cabins, unheated attics, boiler rooms), heated infrared heaters. Radiant heat is not absorbed by the walls, but is returned back to the room. In addition, the foil plays the role of a vapor barrier, which is especially important for wet rooms in frame and wooden buildings.

House insulation - drawings-schemes:

Figures - numbering from left to right

Rice. 1. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE ATTIC FLOOR:

2 - bulk insulation(the layer thickness is increased along the perimeter of the overlap);

3 - additional insulation with expanded polystyrene in the Mauerlat zone;

4 - vapor barrier film from the side of the room;

5 - rough ceiling lining (OSB, plywood, etc.).

Rice. 2. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE FOUNDATION COVERING:

1 - foundation; 2 - wall; 3 - concrete floor; 4 - blind area; 5 - insulation of the basement from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam (the insulation can be plastered); 6 - it is recommended to cover the soil surface under the house with roofing material; 7 - mineral wool insulation is mounted to the ceiling with cement glue, the fastening is reinforced with dish-shaped dowels.

Rice. 3. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE WALL WITH POLYSTYRENE FOAM UNDER THE HINGED FACADE:

1 - wall made of material with low vapor permeability;

2 - the first layer of expanded polystyrene is attached to the wall with cement glue and dish-shaped dowels;

4 - the second layer of expanded polystyrene is inserted between the guides and fixed with mounting foam;

5 - vinyl siding sheathing.

Rice. 4. OPTION OF INSULATION OF THE WALL WITH MINERAL WOOL UNDER THE HINGED FACADE:

1 - a wall made of a material with high vapor permeability (wooden beam);

2 - horizontal crate;

3 - first layer basalt wool 50 mm thick (inserted between the bars of the crate);

4 - vertical crate;

5 - the second layer of basalt wool 50 mm thick;

6 - superdiffusion membrane;