The frame of the house is 6 by 12 two stories. How to build a frame house: the main stages of construction. Shallow strip foundation

Have you ever encountered the topic of “correct” or “wrong” frame house popping up in discussions on forums? Often people are pointed out that the frame is wrong, but they find it difficult to really explain why it is wrong and how it should be. In this article I will try to explain what is usually hidden behind the concept of a “correct” frame, which is the basis of a frame house, just like a human skeleton. In the future, I hope we will consider other aspects.

Surely you know that the foundation is the foundation of the house. This is true, but a frame house has another basis - no less important than the foundation. This is the frame itself.

Which frame house is “right”?

I'll start with the basics. Why is it so difficult to talk about the right frame house? Because there is no single correct frame house. What a surprise, isn't it? 🙂

Why, you ask? Yes, very simple. A frame house is a large constructor with many solutions. And there are many decisions that can be called correct. There are even more decisions – “half-correct” ones, but the “wrong” ones are legion.

Nevertheless, among the variety of solutions, one can single out those that are usually meant when speaking about “correctness.” This is an American and, less commonly, Scandinavian type frame.

Why are they considered examples of “correctness”? It's very simple. The vast majority of private homes for permanent residence in America, and a very significant percentage in Scandinavia, are built using frame technology. This technology has been used there for decades and perhaps even a hundred years. During this time, all possible bumps were filled, all possible options were sorted out and some universal scheme was found that says: do this and with a 99.9% probability everything will be fine. Moreover, this scheme is the optimal solution for several characteristics:

1. Constructive reliability of solutions.
2. Optimal labor costs during construction.
3. Optimal cost of materials.
4. Good thermal characteristics.

Why step on your own rake if you can take advantage of the experience of people who have already stepped on this rake? Why reinvent the wheel if it has already been invented?

Remember. Whenever we talk about the “correct” frame or the “correct” components of a frame house, then, as a rule, this means standard solutions and components used in America and Scandinavia. And the frame itself satisfies all the above criteria.

What frames can be called “semi-regular”? Basically, these are those that differ from typical Scandinavian-American solutions, but, nevertheless, also satisfy at least two criteria - reliable design and good solutions in terms of heating engineering.

Well, I would classify all the rest as “wrong”. Moreover, their “wrongness” is often conditional. It is not at all a fact that the “wrong” frame will necessarily fall apart. This scenario is actually extremely rare, although it does occur. Basically, the “wrongness” lies in some controversial and not the best decisions. As a result, things get complicated where things can be done easier. More material is used where less is possible. The design is made colder or more inconvenient for subsequent work than it could be.

The main disadvantage of “wrong” frames is that they provide absolutely no benefits compared to “correct” or “semi-correct” ones - neither in reliability, nor in cost, nor in labor costs... nothing at all.

Or these advantages are far-fetched and generally doubtful. In extreme cases (and there are some), improper framing can be dangerous and will result in a major home renovation being required within just a few years.

Now let's look at the question in more detail.

Key features of the American frame

The American frame is practically a standard. It is simple, strong, functional and reliable as an iron saw. It is easy to assemble and has a large margin of safety.

Americans are tight-fisted guys, and if they manage to save a couple of thousand dollars on construction, they will definitely do it. At the same time, they will not be able to stoop to outright hackwork, since there is strict control in the construction field, insurance companies in case of problems will refuse to pay, and customers of unfortunate builders will quickly sue and rip off negligent contractors like a stick.

Therefore, the American frame can be called a standard in terms of the ratio: price, reliability, result.

The American frame is simple and reliable

Let's take a closer look at the main points that distinguish the American frame scheme:

Typical components of a frame house

Timber in racks and frames is almost never used, unless this is due to some specific conditions. Therefore, the first thing that distinguishes a “correct” frame house is the use of dry lumber and the absence of timber in the walls. By this criterion alone, you can discard 80% of Russian companies and teams working in the frame market.

Points that distinguish the American frame:

1. Corners - there are several different schemes for implementing corners, but nowhere will you see timber as corner posts.
2. Double or triple racks in the area of ​​window and door openings.
3. The reinforcement above the openings is a board installed on the edge. The so-called “header” (from English header).
4. Double top frame made of boards, no timber.
5. The overlap of the lower and upper rows of trim at key points - corners, various fragments of walls, places where internal partitions join external walls.

I didn’t specifically mention Ukosina as a distinctive point. Since in the American style, if there is cladding with OSB3 (OSB) boards on the frame, there is no need for miters. The slab can be considered as an infinite number of jibs.

Let's talk in more detail about the key features of the correct frame in the American version.

Correct corners of a frame house

In fact, on the Internet, even in the American segment, you can find a dozen schemes. But most of them are outdated and rarely used, especially in cold regions. I will highlight three main angle patterns. Although realistically, only the first two are the main ones.

Nodes of corners of a frame house

1. Option 1 – the so-called “California” angle. The most common option. Why exactly “California” – I have no idea :). From the inside, another board or strip of OSB is nailed to the outer post of one of the walls. As a result, a shelf is formed on the inside of the corner, which subsequently serves as a support for the interior decoration or any internal layers of the wall.
2. Option 2 – closed corner. Also one of the most popular. The essence is an additional stand in order to make a shelf on the inner corner. Among the advantages: the quality of insulation of the corner is better than in option 1. Among the disadvantages: such a corner can only be insulated from the outside, that is, this must be done before sheathing the frame with anything from the outside (slabs, membrane, etc.)
3. Option 3 – “Scandinavian” warm corner. A very rare option, not used in America. I have seen it in Scandinavian frames, but not often. Why did I bring him then? Because, in my opinion, this is the warmest corner option. And I'm thinking about starting to use it at our facilities. But you need to think before using it, since it is structurally inferior to the first two and will not fit everywhere.

What is unique about all three of these options and why is timber a bad option for a corner?

Angle made of timber, the worst option

If you noticed, in all three versions of boards the corner can be insulated. Somewhere more, somewhere less. In the case of timber in a corner, we have two disadvantages at once: firstly, from the point of view of heating engineering, such a corner will be the coldest. Secondly, if there is a beam in the corner, then there are no “shelves” from the inside to attach the interior trim to it.

Of course, the last issue can be resolved. But remember what I said about the “wrong” frames? Why make it complicated when you can make it simpler? Why make a beam, creating a cold bridge and thinking about how to attach finishing to it later, if you can make a warm corner from boards? Despite the fact that this will not affect the quantity of material or the complexity of the work.

Openings and top trim are the most significant difference between the American frame design and the Scandinavian one, but more on that later. So, when they talk about the correct openings in a frame, they usually talk about the following scheme (window and door openings are made according to the same principle).

Correct openings in a frame house

The first thing (1) that people usually pay attention to when talking about “wrong” openings is the double and even triple racks on the sides of the opening. It is often believed that this is necessary to somehow strengthen the opening for installing a window or door. In fact, this is not entirely true. A window or door will be fine on single posts. Why then do we need cohesive boards?

Everything is elementary. Remember when I said that the American frame is as simple and reliable as an iron saw? Pay attention to Figure 2. And you will understand that solid racks are needed solely to support the elements lying on them. So that the edges of these elements do not hang on nails. Simple, reliable and versatile.

In Figure 3 there is one of the simplified versions, when the lower frame of the window cuts into a torn mullion. But at the same time, both window frames still have supports at the edges.

Therefore, we cannot formally say that if the racks are not doubled, then this is “wrong.” They can also be single, as in the Scandinavian frame. Rather, the mistake is when the racks along the edges of the openings are solid, but do not bear the load from the elements resting on them. In this case they are simply meaningless.

In this case, the horizontal elements hang on fasteners, so there is no point in doubling or tripling the racks on the sides

Now let's talk about an element that is already more critical and the absence of which can be considered as an “irregularity” of the opening. This is the “header” above the opening (header).

Window header

This is a really important element. As a rule, some kind of load will come from above onto the window or doorway - the floor joists of the second floor, the rafter system. And the wall itself is weakened by deflection in the area of ​​the opening. Therefore, local reinforcements are made in the openings. In American it is headers. In fact, this is a board installed on edge above the opening. Here it is important that the edges of the header either rest on the posts (if the classic American scheme with solid opening posts is used), or are cut into the outer posts if they are single. Moreover, the cross-section of the header directly depends on the loads and dimensions of the opening. The larger the opening and the stronger the load on it, the more powerful the header. It can also be double, triple, extended in height, etc. – I repeat, it depends on the load. But, as a rule, for openings up to 1.5 m in width, a header made from a 45x195 board is quite sufficient.

Is the absence of a header a sign that the framework is “wrong”? Yes and no. If we act according to the American principle of “simple and reliable,” then the header should be present at every opening. Do this and be sure of the result.

But in fact, you need to dance from the load falling on the opening from above. For example, a narrow window in a one-story house and the rafters in this section of the wall are located along the edges of the opening - the load from above on the opening is minimal and you can do without a header.

Therefore, the header issue should be treated as follows. If there is one, great. If it is not there, then the builders (contractor) must clearly explain why, in their opinion, it is not needed here, and this will depend, first of all, on the load falling on the opening area from above.

Double top harness

Double plank top frame, also a distinctive feature of the American frame

Double top harness

The double strapping again provides reinforcement along the top of the wall for deflection from the load from above - the load from the ceiling, rafters, etc. In addition, pay attention to the overlaps of the second row of strapping.

1. Overlap in the corner - we tie two perpendicular walls together.
2. Overlap in the center - we tie together 2 sections of one wall.
3. Overlap along the partition - we tie the partition together with the outer wall.

Thus, the double piping also fulfills the second task - ensuring the integrity of the entire wall structure.

In the domestic version you can often find the top frame made of timber. And this, again, is not the best solution. Firstly, the beam is thicker than a double frame. Yes, it may be better for deflection, but it is not a fact that it is necessary, but the cold bridge at the top of the wall will be more significant. Well, it’s more difficult to implement this overlap to ensure the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, we return again to the question: why make it difficult if you can make it simpler and more reliable?

Correct jib in a frame house

Another cornerstone. Surely you have come across the phrase “jibs made incorrectly.” Let's talk about this. Firstly, what is a jib? This is a diagonal element in the wall, which provides spatial rigidity for shear in the lateral plane. Because thanks to the jib, a system of triangular structures appears, and the triangle is the most stable geometric figure.

So, when they talk about the correct jib, they usually talk about this option:

Correct jib

Why is this particular jib called “correct” and what should you pay attention to?

1. Such a jib is installed with an angle of 45 to 60 degrees - this is the most stable triangle. Of course, the angle may be different, but this range is best.
2. The jib cuts into the upper and lower trim, and does not just rest against the rack - this is quite an important point, in this way we tie the structure together.
3. The jib cuts into every post in its path.
4. For each node - adjacent to the harness or rack, there must be at least two fastening points. Since one point will give a “hinge” with a certain degree of freedom.
5. The jib cuts into the edge - this way it works better in the structure and interferes less with the insulation.

And here is an example of the most “wrong” jib. But nevertheless, it occurs all the time.

This is just a board stuck into the first opening of the frame. What is so “wrong” about it, since formally it is also a triangle?

1. Firstly, the angle of inclination is very small.
2. Secondly, in such a plane the jib board works worst of all.
3. Thirdly, it is difficult to fix such a jib to the wall.
4. Fourthly, pay attention to the fact that cavities that are extremely inconvenient for insulation are formed at the junctions with the frame. Even if the jib is carefully trimmed and there is no gap at the end, there is no escape from the sharp corner, and properly insulating such a corner is not an easy task, so most likely it will be done somehow.

Another example, also common. This is a jib cut into the posts, but not cut into the harness.

The jib is not embedded in the harness

This option is already much better than the previous one, but, nevertheless, such a jib will work worse than one embedded in the harness, and the work will take 5 minutes more. And if, moreover, it is fixed to each rack with only one nail, then its effect will also be minimized.

We won’t even consider the options for all sorts of small inferior “braids and braces” that do not reach from the top harness to the bottom.

Formally, even the most crooked jib makes at least some contribution. But once again: why do it your own way if a good solution already exists?

This is where we finish with the American frame and move on to the Scandinavian one.

Correct Scandinavian frame

Unlike America, where frames are practically standardized and there are very few differences, there are more variations in Scandinavia. Here you can find both the classic American frame and hybrid versions. The Scandinavian frame, in essence, is the development and modernization of the American one. However, basically, when they talk about a Scandinavian frame, we are talking about such a design.

Typical Scandinavian house kit

Scandinavian frame

Corners, jibs - everything here is like the Americans. What should you pay attention to?

1. Single strapping along the top of the wall.
2. Power crossbar embedded in the racks along the entire wall.
3. Single posts on window and door openings.

In fact, the main difference is this very “Scandinavian” crossbar - it replaces both the American headers and the double harness, being a powerful power element.

What, in my opinion, is the advantage of the Scandinavian frame over the American one? The fact is that it places a much greater emphasis on minimizing all kinds of cold bridges, which are almost all solid boards (double strapping, racks of openings). After all, between each solid board, a gap could potentially form over time, which you may never know about. Well, it’s one thing when the cold bridge is the width of one board, and another question is when there are already two or three of them.

Of course, you shouldn’t focus on cold bridges. There’s still no escape from them, and in fact, their importance is often exaggerated. But, nevertheless, they exist and, if it is possible to minimize them relatively painlessly, why not do it?

Scandinavians in general, unlike Americans, are very interested in energy saving. The colder, northern climate and expensive energy resources also have an impact. But in terms of climate, Scandinavia is much closer to us (I’m talking primarily about the North-West region) than most American states.

The disadvantage of the Scandinavian frame is that it is slightly more complex, at least in the fact that in all racks you need to make cuts for the crossbar. And the fact is that, unlike the American one, it does require some kind of mental effort. For example: large openings may require double racks to support horizontal elements, and additional crossbars and headers. And somewhere, for example, on the gable walls of one-story buildings, where there is no load from the joists or roof, perhaps a transom is not even needed.

In general, the Scandinavian frame has certain advantages, but requires a little more effort and intelligence than the American one. If the American frame can be assembled with the brains completely turned off, then in the Scandinavian one it is better to turn them on, at least in the minimum mode.

“Semi-regular” frames

Let me remind you that by “semi-correct” I mean those that have every right to exist, but differ from the typical Scandinavian-American solutions. Therefore, calling them “semi-correct” must be done with caution.

Let me give you a few examples.

An example of how you can “overdo it”

The first example is from our own practice. This house was built by us, but according to a design provided by the customer. We even wanted to redo the project completely, but we were limited by deadlines, since we had to go to the site; In addition, the customer paid a significant amount for the project and formally there are no violations in the design, but he has come to terms with the stated shortcomings of the current solution.

Why then did I classify this frame as “semi-regular”? Please note that there are Scandinavian crossbars, American headers, and double trims not only at the top, but also at the bottom of the walls. In short, there is an American scheme, and a Scandinavian one, and another 30% of the Russian reserve is thrown on top, just in case. Well, the prefabricated stand of 6 (!!!) boards under the glued ridge beam speaks for itself. After all, in this place the only insulation is isoplate on the outside and cross-insulation on the inside. And if there was a purely American scheme, then there would simply be no insulation in this section of the wall, bare wood from the outside in.

I call this frame “semi-correct” because from the point of view of structural reliability there are no complaints about it. There is a multiple margin of safety “in case of nuclear war.” But there are an abundance of cold bridges, a huge waste of material for the frame, and high labor costs, which also affects the price.

This house could have been made with a smaller but sufficient margin of safety, but at the same time reducing the amount of lumber by 30 percent and significantly reducing the number of cold bridges, making the house warmer.

Another example is a frame using the “double volume” frame system, promoted by a Moscow company.

The main difference is that it is actually a double outer wall, with racks spaced apart relative to each other. So the frame fully satisfies the strength criteria and is very good from the point of view of thermal engineering, due to the minimization of cold bridges, but loses in manufacturability. The problem of eliminating cold bridges, which is primarily solved by such a frame, can be solved by simpler, more reliable and correct methods such as “cross-insulation”.

And, curiously, usually “semi-correct” frames somehow contain Scandinavian-American solutions. And the differences are rather in an attempt to improve the good. But it often happens that “the best is the enemy of the good.”

Such frames can be safely called “semi-correct” precisely because there are no gross violations here. There are differences from typical American-Scandinavian solutions in attempts to improve something or come up with some kind of “trick”. Whether to pay for them or not is the customer’s choice.

“Wrong” frame houses

Now let's talk about the “wrong” frames. The most typical, I would even say collective, case is presented in the photo below.

The quintessence of “directional” frame house construction

What can you immediately notice in this photo?

1. Total use of natural moisture material. Moreover, it is a massive material, which dries out the most and changes its geometry during the drying process.
2. The beams in the corners and on the straps and even on the racks are cold bridges and an inconvenience in further work.
3. Lack of headers and opening reinforcements.
4. Do not understand how the jib is made, poorly fulfilling its role and interfering with insulation.
5. Assembly on corners with black self-tapping screws, the purpose of which is to fasten gypsum boards during finishing (and not for use in load-bearing structures).

The photo above shows almost the quintessence of what is commonly called an “irregular” frame or “RSK”. The abbreviation RSK appeared in 2008 at FH, at the suggestion of one builder who presented a similar product to the world, called Russian Power Frame. Over time, as people began to figure out what was what, this abbreviation began to be deciphered as Russian Strashen Karkashen. Like the apotheosis of meaninglessness with a claim to a unique solution.

What is most curious is that, if desired, it can also be classified as “semi-correct”: after all, if the screws do not rot (black phosphated screws are by no means an example of corrosion resistance) and do not burst during the inevitable shrinkage of the timber, this frame is unlikely to fall apart. That is, such a design has the right to life.

What is the main disadvantage of “wrong” frames? If people know what they are doing, they will come to the Canadian-Scandinavian pattern pretty quickly. Fortunately, there is a wealth of information now. And if they don’t come, then this says one thing: they, by and large, don’t care about the result. The classic answer when trying to ask them why this is so is “we have always built it this way, no one has complained.” That is, the entire construction is based solely on intuition and ingenuity. Without trying to ask how it’s generally customary to do this.

What prevented you from making a board instead of timber? Reinforce the openings? Make normal jibs? Collect on nails? That is, do it right? After all, such a frame does not provide any advantages! One large set of not the best solutions with claims to super strength, etc. Moreover, the labor costs are the same as the “correct” ones, the cost is the same, and the material consumption is perhaps even greater.

Let's sum it up

As a result: the American-Scandinavian frame scheme is usually called “correct”, due to the fact that it has already been tested many times on thousands of houses, proving its viability and the optimal ratio of “labor-input-reliability-quality”.

“Semi-regular” and “irregular” include all other types of frames. In this case, the frame may be quite reliable, but “suboptimal” in terms of the above.

As a rule, if potential contractors cannot justify the use of certain design solutions other than the “correct” American-Scandinavian ones, this indicates that they have no idea about these very “correct” solutions and are building a house solely on a whim, replacing knowledge with intuition and ingenuity. And this is a very risky path that may come back to haunt the home owner in the future.

That's why. Do you want guaranteed correct, optimal solutions? Pay attention to the classic American or Scandinavian frame house construction scheme.

About the author

Despite the fact that the general construction season is ending, some developers continue to build houses. How can this be, since with the advent of cold weather, construction usually comes to a standstill, the unfinished project is mothballed and waits for the next season? All this is true when it comes to brick, stone or block buildings. However, frame houses can be built year-round. Therefore, if you have not yet managed to acquire your own home this year, do not despair - find out how to build a frame house in one season!

What is the essence of frame buildings?

First, let's look at frame technologies. What does "frame house" mean? These are, as a rule, wooden buildings, which are based on a frame. The frame can be made from dry solid or laminated veneer lumber. It is installed on the foundation, fixed to it using strapping. All work can be done with your own hands, since working with wood does not require any special skills that the average man does not possess. We will look at how to assemble the frame correctly later.

The next stage is insulation and waterproofing. We insulate the frame so that the wall looks like a multi-layer cake. Insulation, most often mineral wool, is fixed on the frame. It is overlapped and glued. You can use rolls, mats, liquid alluvial, polystyrene foam and other types of insulation. The outside of the house can be additionally insulated with foam boards, providing wind protection and sound insulation.

Waterproofing is carried out with films and membranes. They protect the walls from moisture getting inside.

Vapor barrier in a frame house is an important element of the wall. Without it, the wall becomes covered with condensation, and in addition, moisture accumulates at the dew point, which is located at the center of the insulation. As a result, the insulation quickly becomes unusable, and the walls become covered with fungus and mold. Good vapor barrier acts as ventilation gaps, but this applies to modern membranes, not films. Films are significantly cheaper, but not as functional. A properly assembled wall pie guarantees the warmth of the house and reduces its energy loss.

At the next stage, we cover the filling of the wall with OSB-3 sheets. It is advisable to foam the joints, ensuring that there are no cold bridges.

Next we carry out the interior and exterior finishing. The inner wall is most often covered with wallpaper, and the outer side is painted. However, you can also use siding, block house, stone finishing, “brick-like”, “beam-like” and any other.

You can read about Finnish houses built using frame technology. And about Canadian frame houses -.

The foundation for a house is the basis

Despite the fact that there is a huge selection of foundations for a frame house, experts recommend choosing strip foundations. The strip foundation has undeniable advantages:

• can be done by hand
• inexpensive
• reliable
• it's quite easy to do

So, if you decide to make a strip foundation with your own hands, you will first have to work with the site. Determine where your house will be located, taking into account the neighbors, the fence, the installation of a septic tank, the location of the well, etc. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances, check whether it will be convenient for transport to enter, whether there is enough space for other buildings if you want to build a garage or bathhouse later . It is advisable to have the area level; you may have to use equipment to level it by removing the top layer.

When the area is prepared, we begin marking. You should already have a ready-made project or plan with the dimensions of the house. Based on these parameters, using rope and pegs, we mark all load-bearing walls.

Next, if we decide to do everything ourselves, we need to either take a shovel or hire equipment. We dig a trench under the foundation, about 40 centimeters wide. Next, we install the formwork, which you can buy, rent, or assemble with your own hands from boards. The formwork should rise above the ground by about half a meter - a high foundation looks more beautiful and protects less durable walls from snow.

The finished formwork, if it was made by hand, must be covered from the inside with film, fixing it to the formwork. This is necessary so that liquid cement does not seep into the cracks between the boards, and it will be easier to remove the formwork - the cement will not stick to the rough wood. Under the weight of cement, the self-supporting formwork can split apart, and the film will hold the cement mortar.

If you have clay soil, add 20 centimeters of PGS to the bottom of the trench. Pour cement over the sand to the edge of the formwork. This must be done quickly, as the cement hardens. Most likely, you won’t be able to do it alone, and you’ll have to call two or three people for help.

Let the foundation harden, this will take at least a week. If the forecast is for rain, cover the surface with film. We leave the foundation for the frame house for about a month, and only then can we do the strapping.

A strong frame is the key to a strong house

As the name itself suggests, frame houses are houses built on a frame. Thus, the frame is the main element of the entire building, so it must be mounted correctly.

How to make a harness - read here. When the piping is ready, we begin the construction of the future wall. You can mount a wall using the following timber elements:

• racks
• braces
• inserts
• cross members

All these are elements of the wall. The racks are a vertically placed beam, which is located between two trims - lower and upper. The top trim refers to the floor beams.

Braces are timber placed at an angle between the posts. They are also fixed to the top and bottom trim (not to the posts, as some people mistakenly assume).

Inserts are small pieces of timber used to provide additional strength to the frame.

Cross members are timber placed strictly horizontally between vertical posts. They are fixed on racks.

The racks should be knocked down with 80 mm nails, at a distance of 450 mm from each other. They are nailed to the harness with 2 120 mm nails on top and 2 of the same on the bottom. Using metal corners, the structure can be made stronger. All materials used in construction must be treated with a septic tank.

Particular attention must be paid to the corners. Here it is necessary to strengthen the racks with jibs.

Don’t forget to check the geometry of the house after each stage - all horizontal beams should lie strictly horizontal, and vertical beams should lie straight up. The piping must be laid evenly, and for this, the surface of the foundation must be flat around the entire perimeter - an error of 1 cm is allowed. The upper piping is also checked with a level. If there are errors on the foundation, it is topped up with cement to level it out. If the level shows slight unevenness, we use parts of the timber, having previously treated it with a septic tank, and level the surface. We check the evenness of the walls with a plumb line.

All components of a frame roof

The roof is the most important element, and in a frame house the roof can be installed with your own hands if you have some experience. However, before installing the roof, it is necessary to make the top trim of the walls and check its level. How the overlap will lie depends on the evenness of the strapping. If there are small irregularities, we eliminate them with our own hands by placing wood chips under the lower part.

There are two ways to install the rafter system:

• layered method
• hanging

Both types of rafter systems are used in frame construction, however, the beams in a hanging rafter system rest on the mauerlat. The Mauerlat is made by hand; it is a timber beam with a cross-section of 10.0×10.0 cm, which is arranged around the perimeter of the building and fixed to the surface of the load-bearing walls on the top row of the frame. On the upper side, the rafter legs are attached to each other using a ridge beam.

The inclined structure is made with your own hands in a different way; it is not attached by rafters to each other in the upper part. The rafters rest at the top on the longitudinal central wall or specially provided support columns.

Which rafter system to choose in your case will be determined by the dimensions of your building. The hanging roofing system is suitable for small buildings, the distance between the load-bearing walls of which is no more than 6 meters.

First you need to assemble the rafter legs in the amount of 2 pieces. Ties are necessary to connect the first rafter legs in their lower part; they are attached to the rafter legs using anchor bolts. The legs are placed against the Mauerlat and secured using sawn grooves. We cut out the grooves of the correct shape with our own hands. Rafters are installed in the grooves, the distance between which depends on the size of your roof. The approximate step is about 1 meter.

If your roof is higher than three meters, pay attention to rafters with a vertical direction.

Thus, the frame of your roof will consist of:

• rafters
• support board
• ridge beam
• racks
• attic floor beams that overlap above the internal load-bearing wall
• run
• rafter leg
• bed
• contractions

When the roof frame is assembled, it is necessary to make lathing. This is the most important element of the roof, so when doing it yourself, be careful and careful: the sheathing is not only necessary for fastening the roofing material, but also for tying together all the structural parts of the roof frame. The lathing ensures the stability of the frame, so before installing it, it is necessary to organize a temporary strapping on the bottom side. The sheathing can be:

• solid
• intermediate

The choice of type of lathing primarily depends on the material with which the roof will be covered. Continuous sheathing is used for soft roofing, which is best suited for a frame house. Metal tiles or slate can be laid on the intermediate sheathing.

Basic rules of frame construction

Frame house is the best choice

To avoid getting a frame house of poor quality, you must follow some rules:

1. Only high quality materials. If you choose wooden construction, use either laminated veneer lumber, or technically dried timber, or do not undertake construction at all. The timber sold at sawmills is raw - after 3 years of operation, 90% of the timber will crack, and the remaining 10 will twist so that the screws are pulled out.
2. If you don’t know how to do it yourself, trust the professionals. Do not experiment with complex construction work - entrust something to the specialists. This is especially true for work at heights, electrical wiring and other complex, narrow-profile work.
3. Don't skimp on the little things. You won’t save much on small things, but you can significantly damage your future home. This primarily concerns wood impregnation. Make two layers, and choose European fire protection.
4. Down with Chinese materials. Do not buy Chinese insulation and insulation, they are not only of low quality, but also emit harmful substances. European materials have confirmed certification and safety class.

The housing issue will never lose its relevance. This explains why two-story frame houses are so popular.

Such projects are practical, functional and inexpensive. They are equally appropriate in the capital region and in provincial towns.

Algorithm for building a two-story country cottage

In order for the country house to be durable and cozy, it is necessary to carry out construction according to the specified scheme.

• Pouring the foundation.

A light strip foundation is quite sufficient. The weight of the frame is small, there is no point in pouring a heavy foundation or driving powerful piles.

• Communications liner.

Electricity, gas pipeline, sewerage - all these utilities must be connected to the cottage at the initial stage of construction.

• Installation of the frame.

The base of the building is assembled from a house kit. This assembly takes a matter of days. It does not require the use of heavy construction equipment.

• Roof installation.

Once the roofing materials have been selected, you can begin installing the roof. This is an important process that determines how warm, reliable, and durable it will be.

• Insulation of frame and roof.

If the house is intended for year-round use, then this item is required. If you plan to use the cottage only in the summer, then you can save on thermal insulation.

• Installation of doors and windows.

The simplest stage of construction. It will only take a few days to implement it.

• Exterior finishing.

Turnkey construction work involves finishing the facade of the building, installing a porch, and equipping extensions such as a veranda and terrace. Finishing is included in the total price of the entire building.

Advantages of two-story frame houses

The main advantage of such buildings is their affordable price. This concerns not only the cost of the building, but also its subsequent maintenance. For its owner, maintaining such a house will cost 2-3 times less than maintaining a similar brick cottage.

In addition, frame cottages are distinguished by good thermal efficiency, environmental friendliness and ease of construction.

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of building a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.

Step No. 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

Preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

1. Site preparation
2. House marking

Site preparation

First, you need to clear the area of ​​vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the marking and allow you to make it more accurately.

If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will make your work much easier, and measurements in the grass may be subject to a large error.

House marking

Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depends on it. If the marking is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next stages.

Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.

If you want to learn how to correctly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all the walls and corners are level and correspond to the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, it had to be submitted separately.

Step No. 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and it’s up to you to decide which one to choose.

Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is used, and also give links to their detailed description.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since installing a pile-screw foundation is not difficult even with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except rocky ones. Particularly suitable for swampy soils, where dense soils are located deep and other types require huge costs.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundations are also used quite often for construction. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated in soils with very high groundwater levels and swampy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, slab foundations have become increasingly popular for building a frame house with your own hands. Despite its considerable cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not spend money on it separately.

Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step No. 3: Installing the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instructions, we will look in detail only at the wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything into one article.

Concrete floor installation

It is worth noting that a concrete floor in a frame house is installed in cases of a slab foundation or a strip foundation. With a slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is strip, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor installation

Let's look at the construction of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For a strip one, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, which can be made of thinner timber. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The installation of a wooden floor begins with tying the foundation. As a rule, the piping is made from timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber should be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the tying process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:

1. The timber is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, don’t forget about waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing material.
   
2. The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber; they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
   
3. The timber is joined with an overlap of 20-30cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, so-called “locks” are cut out from the end.
   
4. The corners fit almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
   
5. The beam is attached to the foundation using bolts or studs. To do this, you need to drill holes both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails measuring 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
   
6. Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the internal walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.
   

When the piping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if you plan everything in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.

The next step is to install the joists on top of the trim. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use timber measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a 50x200mm or 50x150mm board, sewing them together in twos.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board measuring 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installation of logs is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be covered in these instructions:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while preventing moisture from entering the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself is laid tightly, without gaps.

So we have reviewed the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it’s time to start working on the walls.

Step No. 4: Construction of the walls of a frame house

Our next step instructions I will be installing the walls myself. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners; some fastenings can be made with studs.

It is worth noting that almost the entire frame is assembled from boards measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required thickness of insulation.

Some people think that it would be better to install timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and I’ll tell you why a little later, during the installation process.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for installing the walls of a frame house into several stages:

1. Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
2. Installation and fastening of walls vertically on site

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the already finished floor of the frame house; this is the most convenient option. But we must take into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions be accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already installed floor.

To make it clear what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house , and then I will tell you everything in order.

Now let’s look at step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with your own hands:

1. First of all, we need to decide on the ceiling height in the house. Let's assume that the height of the rough ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical posts of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265cm. The diagram shows where the 15 cm came from.
   
2. The distance between the racks, as a rule, is selected based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
   
3. The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
   
4. It is worth noting that each wall will be smaller in wall thickness than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible in the diagram.
   
5. If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the entire assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
   
6. As a rule, to add rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the racks. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they are installed one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo; in the case when they are made one at a time, they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb boards, depending on further work.
   
7. Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
   
8. This is what it looks like “live”.
   

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Putting the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Top trim and structural reinforcement

So, the frame of the walls has been assembled, now you need to make the top frame from the same board as the walls.

The top trim is necessary, first of all, for stronger adhesion of the corners, and will also give unity to all parts of the frame walls and distribute the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails over the walls, along the entire perimeter, including the internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are covered with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for the corners, where the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the wall.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement using plywood or OSB board.

As a rule, having pierced one side along the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB boards, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The construction of internal partitions is almost no different from the construction of external walls, except that they have more lenient requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

1. Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort in terms of sound insulation.
2. The insulation inside the partitions will serve primarily as a sound-absorbing material rather than as thermal insulation.
3. Internal partitions can be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between internal walls and external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.

Step No. 5: Roof of a frame house

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof of other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I’ll even say more that installing a roof for a frame house will be less labor-intensive than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much simpler.

It is worth noting that building a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complex house layout, then you can easily do it yourself.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame one, is a very large topic with many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably move this topic to a separate article.

Step No. 6: Insulating the frame house

So we have come to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction; here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the characteristics of wood, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a short instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:

1. Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side should be in the instructions for it.
2. From the inside of the house, between the studs, insulation is laid in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid overlapping the joint of the previous one to avoid cold bridges.
3. Floor insulation occurs in the same way.
4. It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic by first filling a vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with boards or plywood.
5. After laying the insulation, it is necessary to stuff a vapor barrier film over it; it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
6. Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is placed on the walls on top of the film - boards or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.

As you have already seen, there was a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here DIY frame house, despite the fact that some points were included in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.

The situation when a large beautiful house grows on an empty plot of land in just a few months is probably familiar to many of us. No, it’s not about the financial capabilities of the owner of the building, but about the technology used. Using this technology, it is possible not only to significantly reduce construction time, but also to reduce the costs of purchasing materials and ordering special equipment.

On the wooden house-building market today, tens of thousands of proposals are available from development companies that specialize in the construction of frame houses using Canadian, Finnish and SIP technologies. Each of them guarantees high-quality turnkey work, a European level of service and an individual approach to each client. But is it possible to build, for example, a one-story DIY frame house? Answer: yes, it is possible! To do this, you will need a project and our step-by-step instructions for a general understanding of the construction process.

Project preparation

Design is the most important link in the investment process associated with the construction of a frame house. Through the implementation of this task, many technological, engineering, structural and architectural solutions are solved, which together determine the effectiveness of investments. Therefore, it is so important to entrust this part of the work to specialists and use the services of designers who will prepare a project for you for a fee.

What is usually included in the project? Typically, a frame house project includes two parts. This is the visual component and design of the building. The first part is mainly devoted to the visual display of the house and its facades from several sides, floor plans indicating the rooms, and the placement of window and door openings. The second part is a detailed design of the foundation and rafter system, roofing, drawings of walls, floor beams and ceilings. It also includes an estimate for the amount of materials, a design of all components in the structure, wall and floor cladding.

By having a detailed design, you can avoid the hassle of including ineffective square footage, lots of trim, and wasted money. Of course, you can create a frame house project with your own hands. But for this you will need, at a minimum, to study special literature on the design and construction of “frameworks”. And this takes time, a lot of effort and possible mistakes!

In our opinion, the importance of design cannot be overestimated. By saving on this part of the work, you risk incurring large costs. After all, an unsuccessful or incorrect project is not only a house that is far from ideal, but also a wasted investment!

Calculation and ordering of materials

As a rule, the calculation of building materials is the responsibility of the designer. But preliminary calculations can be done independently. If the drawings are already ready for a frame house (beam flooring, frame), then calculating the volume of materials is quite simple. For example, based on the drawings, you can find out how many meters of strapping and frame supports are required.

In the absence of special drawings, they proceed from the area of ​​the lower and upper floors, as well as the number of linear meters of walls. To determine the number of frame supports, the linear meters of walls are divided by 0.6. For strapping, the volume of material is calculated by multiplying the linear meters by 3. The same is done with the number of beams in meters: for this, the area of ​​the lower and upper floors is divided by 0.6 and added to the length of the strapping beams. However, it is recommended to check these indicators with the designer. Then the calculation will be more accurate.

Foundation structure: MZFL and pile-screw

Lightness of construction is one of the main differences between a frame house and a classic brick house, which affects the choice of foundation. The weight of the “framework” usually does not exceed 20 tons, this makes it possible to reduce the cost of the structure, not to deepen the foundation and not make it massive. Most often this is a MZFL (shallow strip foundation) for frame-panel houses or a pile-screw foundation for SIP houses designed according to.

1. A strip foundation is a concrete strip that runs under all the load-bearing walls of the house, both external and internal. Strengthening – reinforcement frame. This is the preferred option for a frame house, due to which the customer can afford to install a basement or ground floor. The secret of the popularity of MZLF also lies in the ease of construction with your own hands and the affordability of the price.

The main stages of installing a strip foundation include:

• Preparing the soil, followed by removing the fertile layer and leveling the surface;
• Creation of sand and crushed stone cushion and installation of mortgages for laying communications;
• Installation of formwork and waterproofing, production of reinforcement frame;
• Pouring concrete mixture;
• Dismantling the formwork after the concrete has hardened and acquired strength.

A prerequisite for MZLF is the absence of a high groundwater level. Otherwise, the creation of an effective drainage system will be required.

2. costs the customer much less than MZLF, which is explained by the use of a fundamentally different approach, less expensive materials and simplified installation technology. You can get a high-quality and durable foundation for a frame house with your own hands in just one day, and it can be used immediately after installation.

Installation of a pile-screw foundation begins with a soil survey to indicate the depth of the load-bearing words and determine the required length and number of screw piles. The project is being finalized taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the designated length of the piles. Based on this, piles are purchased and delivered to the construction site. Installation of this type of foundation is carried out according to the plan of the pile field, regardless of the time of year.

Its advantage lies not only in the speed of installation, but also in the absence of harm to the landscape due to the absence of sand and crushed stone preparation and excavation. There are no traces of heavy special equipment, the usual mountains of construction waste and dirt. In addition, the use of screw piles helps create an air gap under the house, preventing the appearance of dampness in the room and retaining heat.

Floor construction

Building a floor in a frame house with your own hands is not much different from installing a floor in a brick house and can be made of wood or concrete. The choice may be influenced by the type of foundation, financial capabilities and preferences of the developer.

Let's take a closer look at installing a wooden floor with your own hands based on a pile-screw foundation.

The start of work is tying the foundation, which is carried out using timber 150x150 or 150x200, which depends on the distance between the piles and the thickness of the walls. The higher these indicators, the thicker the material should be. This is necessary to avoid cases of sagging, distribute the load, and give the foundation rigidity and reliability for the next stage of floor arrangement.

Schematically, the process of tying the foundation with your own hands can be divided into several stages:

1. Laying out timber around the perimeter, precise marking of walls, lining roofing felt under the trim;
2. Marking the joining points of the beams, taking into account the location of the piles;
3. Joining timber with an overlap of up to 30 cm using “locks” cut from the end;
4. Joining corners using a similar principle;
5. Preparing holes and fastening the timber to the foundation using studs and bolts, the protruding parts of which are recessed. At the joints, nails of suitable sizes are additionally used.

At the final stage, piping is carried out under the internal walls. In this case, the fastening of the beam goes to the already installed external one. Metal corners are additionally used for strengthening.

Construction of the floor frame

Logs are installed on top of the trim. For this, timber 100x150(200) or sewn boards 50x150(200) are used. This is a simple part of assembling a frame house with your own hands, but it requires observing certain points. This:

• Maintaining the distance between the logs taking into account the size of the insulation. For example, if the developer uses 100x60 mineral wool, its dense placement will require reducing the distance to 58 cm, i.e. several centimeters less than the width of the material itself;

• Installation of logs is carried out using fastening angles and nails. They do not go level with the harness, but are mounted on a smaller “matchbox” (5 cm). This is necessary so that in the future another board can be placed here and all the gaps around the perimeter will be closed;

A mandatory element is also a 50x150 (200) board between the joists, which is nailed in order to increase the rigidity of the structure.

Insulation and waterproofing of the floor

Perpendicular to the joists, a 100/150x25 board is attached joint to joint using self-tapping screws. Next, a waterproofing membrane is placed, and on top of it, between the joists, is insulation, up to 20 cm thick. All insulation joints must be overlapped.

The next layer is a vapor barrier, followed by an OSB board or tightly sewn boards (at the developer’s choice). Installation of vapor barrier, as well as waterproofing, is carried out with an overlap to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.

Wall construction

To install the walls of a frame house with your own hands, nails and mounting angles are used in the same way. It is also possible to use pins. For the frame of the walls, a 50x150/200 board is used, which is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the wall itself.

Ideally, the walls are assembled on a ready-made floor. The main thing is that the dimensions are accurate, otherwise the walls risk being longer or shorter than the floor. In order for you to understand what we are talking about, pay attention to what the wall of a frame house looks like in section.

First of all, you need to decide on the ceiling height of the future frame house. Let's assume that the rough ceiling will be 280 cm high. This means that the height of the vertical posts will be 265 cm (10 cm from the top frame of the walls and 5 cm from the floor level are not taken into account).

A distance of 60 cm is maintained between the racks. For cotton-based insulation, this figure can be reduced to 58 cm to ensure tighter contact. To simplify the process, the top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor, after which markings are applied where the vertical posts will be fastened with nails.

If the length of the wall exceeds that of the board, the wall is assembled in parts. This is also done in cases where the developer works alone, since the entire assembled wall has considerable weight. Studs are used for connection.

The next step is to install jumpers between the racks while preserving space for door and window openings. As a rule, these are two units per gap with the expectation that they will be used as an OSB board joint.

Important! In order not to make mistakes in the calculations and to make the wall of the required thickness, during the process of assembling the wall, you should take into account the thickness of the board used.

The final stage is the assembly of all the walls of the frame house with subsequent installation. They start by putting up one wall, which is strengthened with temporary supports. Here it is important to monitor the vertical angles, for which they use a plumb line or a long level. It is desirable, of course, that this be a plumb line, since the board cannot be perfectly flat.

All other walls rise one by one. Nails and studs are used for installation. Prefabricated walls (from several parts) are given special attention, making sure that the length of the bottom and top is the same. Instead of timber, the corners are filled with insulation. To strengthen the walls, use any thin board that is nailed diagonally. A cord that is pulled between two corners will help ensure that the walls are evenly positioned.

Upper harness

To strengthen the structure and securely adhere the corners, use the same board as for the walls, plus 120 mm nails. This will distribute the load between all parts of the frame walls. The strapping is carried out along the entire perimeter, including over the internal load-bearing walls. Here it is important to cover all joints, leaving an overlap of 25 cm. For corners, the amount of overlap will be equal to the thickness of the walls.

Interior partitions

The installation of interior partitions is similar to the installation of external walls, with the caveat that the requirements for them regarding insulation and thickness are more relaxed. Therefore, they are installed in such a way that sound insulation is maintained.

The best assistant in this regard is insulation. Waterproofing and vapor barrier materials can be used as desired.

Do-it-yourself roofing installation for a frame house

Installation is in many ways similar to roof construction in other houses, but still surpasses them in ease of installation, which is explained by simplified fastening to the walls. This is a very important part of the work, especially when it comes to building a two-story frame house, but if you have a simple house layout and a “one-story” house, then you can easily cope with it alone and do everything with your own hands.

We will not delve into the description of all stages of roof installation here, since this is a very broad topic that requires a separate article, but we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for constructing a frame house, which describes in detail all stages of construction, including the arrangement of the roof.

Download the directory “Individual house “Platform”. Design and construction"

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house

One of the final stages of construction. Everything is insulated, including walls, floors and ceilings. When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house with your own hands, they proceed from the characteristics of the material and the characteristics of the wood itself, with which the insulation will combine well.

Key points on insulation:

• A special waterproofing membrane is stretched over the OSB boards. The side of application to the sheet is usually indicated in the instructions;
• The insulation is installed from the inside of the building, between the studs. The number of layers depends on the thickness of the wall and the requirements put forward for insulating a frame house with your own hands. To prevent the penetration of cold, an inlet is used;
• Floor insulation is carried out according to a similar scheme;
• The insulation of the ceiling is preceded by attaching a vapor barrier film to the ceiling beams and lining them with a board from below. It is recommended to start work from the attic;
• A vapor barrier film is stuffed over the insulation to create protection from moisture from the inside.

If necessary, sheathing in the form of OSB sheets can be applied over the film, after which the final finishing begins.

This concludes our step-by-step instructions for building a frame house. The Southern House company is ready to assist you in the construction of a frame house. For you this is: individual design, turnkey construction, installation of a terrace or canopy, laying any foundation, facade finishing, electrical work and installation of a drainage system.

If you have any questions related to receiving the project, the possibility of making adjustments to it, calculating the cost of the project and building a house, you can contact the managers of our company at the specified telephone numbers. You can also leave a request by filling out a special form on our official website, after which our specialist will contact you to clarify the details.