The street toilet with a cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. A new house and even a small cottage should please the owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for the building, if you approach the design wisely and use modern materials and technologies. During the construction of a house, the drain system is laid at the design stage, along with other engineering communications, but it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort in an old house.
All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewer, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the arrangement of communications inside the premises for these cases will be the same, the only difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.
General principles for installing sewerage in a private house
In principle, the sewerage in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of a smaller diameter, through which drains from a sink, toilet bowl, etc. flow into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into large-diameter horizontally located pipes, and from them into the centralized sewerage system or adjacent autonomous treatment facilities.
When planning a sewer in a house under construction, it is worth having the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewer goes outside. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other in order to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.
In a large house with a large number of bathrooms, with a complex sewer system, it is rational to install a sewer pump. A pump may also be needed if the site has absolutely no slope.
When designing sewers, the following are also taken into account:
- site landscape - wastewater flows down and the septic tank or cesspool should be at its lowest point,
- the type of soil, its freezing and the height of groundwater - this determines the depth of the external sewage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities
Material selection
At the present stage, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride is the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require a welding machine to assemble them. In addition to pipes, you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with a sealant.
The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet bowl is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet bowl. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then the pipes are taken with a larger diameter.
Pipe installation and plumbing connection
Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in a computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewerage should go at a slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. blockage prevention.
The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent drains from entering them.
Sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are supplied with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped with a layer of mineral wool or closed with a plasterboard box.
Sanitary fixtures are connected to pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Fetid gases from the sewers cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathrooms come with a siphon already installed, others will require an additional purchase, toilets have a built-in siphon.
The riser is connected to the external pipes by means of horizontal pipes of the same or large diameter, located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory on turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe lies in the ground or an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the point of exit from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and through a hole in the foundation they are joined to the external sewer.
Sewer pipes are attached to the walls with clamps. Additional fasteners are installed near the tie-in points in the riser, connections and transitions.
sewer ventilation
A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example, from a toilet bowl, moving along the pipe, creates an area of discharged space behind it. In the absence of air entering the system, water from the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe leaves, and an unpleasant odor appears. For this reason, the sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.
For riser pipes, they are extended to the roof, the upper end does not close, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently, an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from being discharged in the pipe.
Outdoor sewerage
Outside the house, it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. For their laying, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured on its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep occurrence, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.
Inspection hatches are installed at the place of connection to the house and near the docking with the central sewer or autonomous treatment facilities. It is advisable to install a check valve in the pipe. It will protect the house sewer from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool is overflowing, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.
Wastewater treatment plant
An autonomous sewer at the end may have:
- cesspool,
- biological treatment plant.
Each of these options has its advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can be recommended only for cottages where they do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. The biological treatment plant is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and its emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. A septic tank is the best option, you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.
Properly designed and installed sewerage will make living in your own home even more comfortable.
It is hard to imagine a country cottage without a civil toilet and a cozy bathroom. But not every village is equipped with a waste collection system. Therefore, sewerage in a private house is performed separately. Don't know which system to choose? This article will tell you about all the features of sewerage in a private house.
We have described possible ways of organizing waste collection, outlined their features of arrangement and use. They also gave step-by-step instructions on drafting a project, installing a sewer pipeline, installing a septic tank and a drainage well.
There are several types of waste collection systems: central, accumulative, draining, filtration.
Central. The sewer pipe of the house is connected to the public sewer network, through which organic waste is collected in the city sewer.
Depending on the distance of the central pipeline to the house, a decision is made on the advisability of using an autonomous or central sewerage system
Accumulation system- modern prototype. The main difference is the complete tightness of the waste collection point. It can be: concrete, brick, metal, plastic. To do this, a ditch for a container is dug on a piece of land remote from a residential building.
The principle of operation of the storage system is to discharge organic compounds into a sealed container. When it fills up, the contents are pumped out. cesspool machine.
This scheme for installing an individual sewerage system in a private house has gained wide popularity due to its low cost.
Pipe ventilation arrangement
The exhaust sewage system is designed to balance the negative pressure inside the pipeline. Due to the connection of sewer pipes with the atmosphere, the system is aligned.
As a ventilation system is used:
- air valve.
fan hood is a continuation of the central riser. It is brought out above the roof ridge at a distance of 30-50 cm. To protect against precipitation, a deflector is attached to the outlet, which further enhances traction.
Installing a fan hood for a private cottage is extremely impractical. Such a system will require insulation of the pipeline, as well as the allocation of a separate ventilation duct in the partitions.
Air valve- perfect option. It is easy to mount it in the pipeline. The device is installed directly in the room. The valve is equipped with a soft rubber membrane that only lets air in.
For a two-story house, one device is enough. The valve is mounted on the second floor.
Scheme of connecting waste water discharge points to the central pipe. The difference in the height of the connection of the outflow of the dishwasher and the toilet bowl determines the total angle of inclination of the pipeline
Stage number 3 - installation of a septic tank
If a decision is made to make a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands, then it is better to install a septic tank from concrete rings or a ready-made plastic tank.
The volume of the container for collecting and settling organic waste is determined by calculation. Be sure to add an extra cube. The pipe insertion point is located at a distance of 2/3 from the upper edge of the septic tank, so it is not filled to the top.
Septic tank device
The first step is to dig three holes for the installation of containers. To save time and financial costs, it is advisable to combine two settling tanks into one.
The bottom of the dug hole should be reinforced with a concrete base. Concrete cannot be laid on the ground, so pour a layer of crushed stone, 20 cm thick.
For the device of the base, a formwork from a building board is exposed. It must be fixed with reinforcement along the outer and inner perimeter.
The composition of the mixture is the same as for pouring the foundation. At the same time, be sure to lay a knitted mesh as a reinforcing element. It is better to take cement grade M500, since the weight of the filled container will be large.
After the base hardens, and this will happen no earlier than after 3 weeks, proceed to the installation of drives.
With the help of a crane, they are installed in a dug hole. When the first link is laid, the joint with the base must be smeared with cement mortar or tile adhesive. This is how you achieve tightness.
Do the same with subsequent rings. Before installing the second and third, pre-apply a layer of mortar to the joints. After mounting all the links, once again process the joints inside the container. When the tank is installed, a brick partition is made inside.
For cleaning are mounted. The horizontal partition is made of a concrete slab with holes for plastic covers.
The last step is all the inner surfaces of the two containers.
It should be borne in mind that the outlet from the first container should be 10 cm lower than the first - the entrance from the house.
The angle of inclination is determined by the same parameters as for home wiring: with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, the height difference per 1 m is 20 mm.
Scheme of installation of a draining septic tank with two sealed tanks. The presence of a second tank allows you to filter water from silt and other contaminants
To ensure that the slope of the pipe complies with the standards, the inlet of the second sump is lowered by 10 cm relative to the first.
Insulation is attached to the upper part of the tanks, as well as to the inside of the cleaning hatches. Cleaning or inspection hatches are installed directly above the bypass pipes so that they can be cleaned.
A concrete base is not required for installation. Here, the soil under the rings must pass water and retain sewage.
Therefore, a sand-gravel cushion is poured at the bottom of the pit. The thicker the layer of rubble, the longer the well will perform its functions. After 5 years, you will have to replace the top layer of rubble with a new one, because the old one will silt up.
Keep track of the level. When installing the first ring on crushed stone, one edge may warp. If this happens, simply lift the link with a crane and level the level with rubble.
The joints of the rings must be treated with a solution in order to achieve tightness. The device for waterproofing and an inspection hatch occurs by analogy with a sump.
Organization of septic tank ventilation
Installation of ventilation pipes for septic tanks is justified only if aerobic bacteria are used. They strongly absorb the air that is supplied through the hood.
Another type of biological bacteria are anaerobes. The process of their vital activity proceeds without oxygen.
It is important not to confuse these two concepts, as some anaerobes die if there is air in the environment.
are added to the sedimentation tanks. Bacteria completely convert organic matter into water. In practice, this effect can only be achieved by installing complex filtration systems, but still they must be used. Therefore, install a ventilation pipe in both sumps.
A PVC sewer pipe for outdoor use is led out of each tank through the lid. A deflector is installed at the end.
Stage number 4 - laying the central pipe
The sewer pipe, which removes sewage from the house, is diverted from the basement to a distance of 5 m. The pipeline for outdoor use is painted orange. Such a product differs from "home" pipes in thicker walls. Permissible laying depth - 3 m.
At the bottom of the dug pit, as well as on top of the laid pipe, a layer of sand of 8-10 cm is poured. To ensure the best removal of organic sewage from the house to the septic tanks, the pipe should go in one line. Turns of the central drain are strictly prohibited.
Alternatives to a drainage septic tank
A modern device that allows you to purify wastewater by 90% or more is a deep cleaning station.
Biological filtration devices are equipped with three levels of purification $
- biological purification by bacteria;
- mechanical filtration with meshes;
- final cleaning with chemicals.
It will not work to independently install such a sewer. The stations are produced in a single container, divided inside into several compartments. The device is volatile.
The compressor unit pumps air into the aerobic compartment for increased bacterial activity. The percentage of water purification, depending on the model of the septic tank
When the power is turned off, the bacteria will continue to live for up to two days. After this period, the installation loses its effectiveness. It will take several days to grow a new crop
Deep purification of organic matter allows the use of waste water for watering plants. For this, a storage tank with a pump is installed.
Deep treatment stations are advisable to use when groundwater is located too close to the surface of the earth. Also, if the site has clay soil, natural drainage will be difficult.
In addition to a biological septic tank, a sealed tank can serve as a way out of the situation. It will have to be pumped out often, but you will not have other problems.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The intricacies of arranging sewerage are outlined by the author of the video, who is busy laying sewer pipes:
The device of a septic tank made of concrete rings will be discussed in the following video:
Sewerage in a private house is an important stage of construction. Even at the design stage, the owner should think about the future design of septic tanks, their location, as well as the filtration system.
The comfort of all those living in the house will depend on the proper arrangement of the sewer system, therefore, if there is doubt in one’s abilities, it is better to entrust its arrangement to specialists.
Ensuring comfort and quality of life in a country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to ensure a comfortable life is the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. Properly calculated at the design stage and subsequently properly built sewage in a private house will be the key to long-term operation, in which there will be no problems. You can create a similar design with your own hands, if you approach the issue with maximum responsibility.
Primary requirements
In order to avoid any problems in the process of creating a sewerage system in your own home, it is best to follow as much as possible in this process all the requirements and standards that are described in the regulatory documentation - SNiP. In this case, everything will definitely function flawlessly for a long period of time.
In any building where a water pipe is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be made that will remove the runoff masses. Mechanisms for drainage should also be created at the sites. In general, such a network can not only provide a comfortable life, but also do not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time of using the building.
Typically, sewerage consists of the following systems:
- storm, which diverts water;
- outdoor;
- internal.
They must be laid in such a way that various building sanitation requirements for sewerage in your own home are met.
Among these requirements are:
- ensuring normal cleansing;
- no risk of flooding the building;
- ensuring the required volume of wastewater;
- tight accumulation and transportation of sewage.
If we talk about the requirements for internal systems of this type, then they should consist of the following elements:
- a riser to which all pipes are attached;
- dilution of pipes, which pumps wastewater in the direction of the riser;
- plumbing fixtures for drainage.
According to the norms, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for the free transportation of liquid from the places where the drain is carried out to the pipes that lead out of the building. When laying sewers inside the building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymers are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, in this mechanism there must also be ventilation. Usually it is carried out through the riser. Above each element, an exhaust space is made that overlooks the roof.
If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP number 2.04.03-85.
The following points should be taken into account in this document:
- wells for maintenance and cleaning should be installed in the mechanism;
- to clean up effluents, an installation using biomethods is needed;
- if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
- pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at the level of ten to twelve centimeters;
- if there are few floors in the building, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
- if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to opt for a pressure sewer.
Another important point is the choice of design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.
There can be three options for septic tanks that are used:
- aeration tanks;
- storage septic tank;
- treatment.
Now let's talk about them a little more. Aerotanks are the latest solutions using several cleaning methods. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is cleared to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily drained into the ground, a reservoir and used for irrigation. The storage category septic tank is an improved version of the cesspool, in which cleaning is not carried out, but only drains are collected. When the septic tank is filled to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done with the help of special sewage equipment.
If we talk about the differences from the cesspool, then no filtration into the soil in this case is carried out. This means that no harm is done to the environment. But still, this type of septic tank has been used extremely infrequently in recent years due to the high cost of the cost of services of special sewage equipment. This type can be used only if you live in the house relatively infrequently.
Treatment septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for the purification of sewage. As a rule, at first, the effluents in them are settled, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground for this purpose.
Their use allows you to purify the water by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.
For this reason, the best types of soil for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the earth is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It’s just that then the installation of a septic tank will turn out to be too expensive, since there will still be the necessary special installation to create filtration fields.
Kinds
In your own home, sewage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.
There are usually three of these criteria:
- the location of the sewer;
- the purposes for which it will be used;
- difference in the type of waste that will be collected.
If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is as follows.
- outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other facilities and transporting them to special treatment facilities or a place of discharge into a centralized sewerage intake. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as wells of a rotary and revision type.
- Internal. Such a sewerage system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special water intake devices and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the main line to a special external sewerage complex.
- Cleaning waste. Before wastewater is discharged into the ground or a reservoir, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).
If we take the criterion of collected effluents, then sewage is next.
- Domestic. It can also be called household or household fecal. It is usually referred to as K1. This type of sewage includes the whole complex of devices that are connected to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, drains, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines, which consist of pipes of different sizes, fasteners and fittings.
- Industrial or industrial. Usually in the schemes, its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type of sewerage is intended to divert water, which is used in some kind of technological process. This type of sewerage is not used in their own homes, but it is impossible not to say about it.
- Stormy or rainy. This type is usually referred to as K2. Such a system is a whole set of downpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels, and so on. Usually, most of such a mechanism is laid in the open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.
It should also be noted that sewerage in a private house can be of two types:
- autonomous;
- centralized.
The type chosen will depend on where exactly the sewage type will be drained - into your own septic tank or into the central line through a collector type well. If the local sewerage runs close to the house and connection to it will be cheap, then it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the costs of use in this case will still be lower.
In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.
These are the following types:
- septic tank:
- dry closet;
- biocleaning with the help of a special unit;
- cesspool.
The septic tank has already been mentioned, and therefore let's talk about other types. A dry closet would be a suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. Yes, and he does not solve the issue of drains from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is advantageous due to high performance and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs for this option will be considerable due to the need for energy costs and the high cost of equipment. The cesspool option was the most common not so long ago. But recently, the number of drains has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.
Preparatory work
Each of the above solutions for wastewater treatment plants requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting sewerage work, the necessary preparations should be made so that the system can really work efficiently after it is built and put into operation.
What should be taken into account?
Before you start creating a sewer, you should calculate everything to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of a place for installing the system.
Its placement will be influenced by such factors.
- How close are groundwater.
- Relief features of the territory where the sewerage will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means that the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
- The physical structure of the soil.
- Presence or absence of sources of drinking water.
- How much does the soil freeze in winter?
Sandy soil is usually loose, which means that liquid can easily pass through it, which means that there is a possibility of contamination with household waste. Using the simplest solution as an example - a septic tank made of concrete rings or tires, we will consider what needs to be considered. First you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in the house takes two hundred liters of water, which must be settled for three days.
That is, for a family with four members, a septic tank with a volume of just under 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.
In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same to the neighboring site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a reservoir or a water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if an elevated level of groundwater is observed on the site, then the design must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.
Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials.. It is from this factor that the time of using the entire mechanism will depend. If we talk about sewage of an internal type, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross section of 11 centimeters are usually used here, and for breeding - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be longer.
Connections should usually be made with rubber cuffs that are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then use other orange pipes. They are made in such a color scheme to make it easier to find them in the ground. They are made of especially strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.
Design
As it became clear, any installation and construction work cannot be carried out without the preliminary creation of project documentation. And plumbing is no exception. A sewerage scheme is being formed from a general layout plan for the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured in any way, depending on the wishes of the customer.
Here are some important things to keep in mind:
- sewage discharge from the room where the toilet is located should be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross section of 10-12 centimeters and a length of at least 1 meter;
- under drains from the shower room and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or five-centimeter-sized polypropylene pipes;
- if the building has two or more floors and there will be more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (this rule does not work for a one-story house and you can place it anywhere);
- wiring bends should be made by combining two plastic elbows, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk that the sewer will clog;
- the toilet should be connected directly to the sewer riser at a minimum distance from the pipe;
- other plumbing fixtures should be connected to the sewer network above the place where the toilet is connected in order to exclude the possibility of feces getting into the drainage lines;
- the sewer riser must be taken out to the roof and a fan hood should be installed on it to ensure ventilation of the sewer inside;
- the greatest distance for connecting plumbing-type appliances to the riser should not be more than three meters, and the toilet bowl - a meter.
In addition, other expert advice should be given:
- when creating an internal sewerage project, you must first draw up a building scheme on a scale, before that, having carried out all measurements with a tape measure;
- now it is necessary to determine the place of installation of risers;
- conditionally on all floors we mark the location of plumbing fixtures;
- depict the location of the pipes on the graph;
- determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe based on the number of devices;
- we find the exit point of the sewer from the building;
- sum up the length of all pipes and carry out the calculation of shaped elements;
- now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage scheme.
Mounting
So, now let's move on to the direct installation of sewage in our own home and find out how to properly carry it out. Laying the sewer after the project has been made and calculated, should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. In advance, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the septic tank, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process it will not be superfluous to involve special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.
Now we create a formwork structure from boards or chipboard, which must immediately be reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. To tie up such rods for greater confidence, you can use steel wire. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe trims in them. These segments will become the entry points for the system highway and the overflow pipe that connects the sections of the septic tank.
Now the entire formwork structure should be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to evenly distribute the solution. Note that this design must be monolithic, which is why it is usually poured once. It should also be cited as an example if a two-chamber septic tank is required. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure where the waste will settle. It is in this part that solid large waste fractions will settle below. But in the second part, a slightly purified liquid will accumulate.
Due to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go to the adjacent chamber.
There is no need to make a bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be stacked one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter drains. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. Between the parts we install an overflow pipe. It is located somewhere at the level of the upper third of the wells. Note that usually summer residents use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewerage installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide higher quality cleaning.
It is also easy to make a ceiling for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork construction. Or you can take a reinforced concrete slab. In this part, a special inspection hatch must be made. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as filling the sections. After all this, when the installation is completed, it is required to fill the pit with sand or earth. It is necessary to clean the sump somewhere every two to three years.
The next step will be laying the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must go as if on a slope so that the waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for the high-quality operation of the line. But the average is about two degrees.
Note that the sewer should be laid lower than the freezing level of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying the pipes at the bottom of the trench, a dense sand cushion should be created, compacting it well. This will allow for reliable pipe fixation and prevent the line from collapsing during seasonal soil displacement.
If we talk about the most correct scheme, then for giving the best solution would be to lay a direct line from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well for inspection in this place. You can use cast-iron or plastic pipes intended for the external type of sewage. At the joints, everything should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is covered with sand, and only then soil is laid on it.
Corrugated pipes are used to connect the inside to the outside. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.
To lay pipes in a building, we will need:
- sharper knife;
- saw for working with plastic;
- rubber seal kits.
First we need to prepare the shaped elements.
These are the following elements:
- transition sleeves that can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
- connection fittings for three or four holes, which allow you to make a pipeline branching;
- transitional branches necessary for the formation of transitions between pipes with the same size;
- bends that form angles, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.
In general, sewer installation in your own home will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, vertical risers are installed in the required quantity. Usually they are installed from the basement to the roof, so that the whole structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The place for installation is usually selected closer to the toilets, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, one below the other, and the house is small in size, then one riser for such a building will be quite enough.
Note that the farthest plumbing fixture should not be further from the riser than five meters.
Now the pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After that, the side branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be attached to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the overall performance. The last step will be to connect the devices in question using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the land, as well as how groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case, everything will be individual.
It will also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a country sewerage mechanism without pumping. Summer residents are looking at such systems more and more often, and therefore it will not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by a two or three-chamber septic tank, which will be active at the same time. If the mechanism has two tanks, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chamber ones - one second. In the first part, the sedimentation of heavy substances is carried out. As it fills, the liquid also enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters a well for drainage or a filtration field. It is important that both containers are airtight.
This type of system requires pumping, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewer pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Similar equipment will be used to remove the sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be affected by both the composition of wastewater and the size of the reservoir. The structure will be subject to cleaning when the height of the sludge reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.
For six months, somewhere around 70-80 liters of sediment usually accumulate in the tank.
Standards for the location of sewer outlets for different plumbing fixtures
Any sewer can be designed in such a way that all plumbing fixtures that are connected to it have a minimum number of different intermediate elements, which will only complicate the arrangement of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. The ideal solution is when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected with a smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer socket. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located even before creating the project. And it would be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given place.
At the same time, for different categories of plumbing equipment, there are features that make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of various plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of the clean type floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of the equipment and sewer sockets and the location of the water sockets are being set. This parameter should be known in advance, which is why the installation of sewage pipelines can be carried out even before the floor screed is poured and a finish type coating is applied.
Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.
- The height of the siphon connection to the sewer socket for the washbasin should be at the level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the clean floor. Its center should be directly in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
- The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters, if we are talking about a wall-hung toilet.
- In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
- If a garbage grinder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but shifted to any side.
- For an attached toilet, this figure will be somewhere around 18-19 centimeters.
- For washing machines and dishwashers, the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
- For bathtubs, as well as shower cabins with a tray, it is necessary that the bell-shaped center of the sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters be at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. If this is not possible, then the installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of bath models, the connection of which is carried out at the level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.
These recommendations work almost always, as manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted standards, which, by the way, are not legally prescribed anywhere. But in reality, anything can happen, so the actual presence of equipment that will be installed in a predetermined place will be a big plus.
Possible problems and solutions
It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, there are problems in the sewerage system in your own home.
The most common troubles are as follows.
- The sewer smells bad. To eliminate the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are attached to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always a little water. A barrier of this type does not allow unpleasant odors to pass through.
- blockage. It often happens that the system is clogged, even if the installation was carried out according to all the necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special fittings so that there is no need to disassemble the system until the plug is removed.
- Freezing sewers. This is another problem that comes up frequently. The reason is that many simply lay sewers above the freezing level of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
- Mismatch between different elements. To avoid such a situation, installation should begin with the installation of an outlet-node connecting the riser to the pipe, which is suitable for the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe trim. Its diameter must be larger than the size of the riser pipes. Usually we are talking about the figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should crawl out of the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.
To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, the following principles should be followed during the installation of such a system:
- if the pipes have different diameters, then they must be joined using special adapters;
- using oblique type tees, you can connect risers and pipes;
- the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
- installation of external sewerage should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
- as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
- where the kitchen and bathroom pipes intersect, a collector should be placed.
In order for the sewer mechanism in your own home to always work efficiently and efficiently, and also function well, experts recommend following a few simple rules. The first thing to do is to constantly flush the pipelines of the external and internal type with plenty of hot water. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is required to use garbage nets to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.
Another important recommendation of specialists is to pump out various sedimentary masses from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause a breakdown of the entire system. Another tip from the experts is to not allow waste grease to go down the drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause clogging of the pipe.
When purchasing components and pipes, experts recommend checking whether there is a rubber lining in the socket, as it is constantly lost by many people. Under no circumstances should a vent pipe be connected to the ventilation mechanism. According to experts, when inserting PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints due to the fact that the connecting places are extremely fragile and unstable.
It is also recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is usually mounted as close as possible to the area where the pipe enters the building in an accessible place. In addition, if there is a usual set of water consumption points in the building, then it is completely optional to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.
In general, as you can see, the creation of sewerage in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and a lot of attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, much will depend on what type of sewerage will be created. Pressure sewage will have its own characteristics, and external or internal - their own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with experts.
For a comfortable life in a modern private house, amenities are simply necessary. In this, the main role is given to proper sewage. Doing it yourself is not easy, but possible. To do this, you need to have some knowledge.
Sewerage should begin with the drafting of internal and external systems for the removal of wastewater.
Scheme of the internal sewer system
This system must be thought out even before the construction of the house, at the design stage. The first thing you need to know is what volume the container will be, where all the waste received for processing will be processed.
The average volume is from 200 to 250 liters. The next step is to decide on the type of sewerage system. According to the rules for building houses, it is worth placing all rooms with high humidity in one corner or one above the other. For example:
Basic rules for organizing internal sewage
- No other equipment may be connected to the sewer pipe between the toilet and the riser. This is due to the fact that during flushing, water will be sucked out of all the siphons connected to the system. This is why the toilet must be connected to the riser with a separate connection.
- In order to better clean sewer pipes, their slope should be from 2 to 15 degrees, this corresponds to 2-15 centimeters per meter of length.
- Be sure to take care of the ventilation of the risers. Without it, after a while, an unpleasant odor will appear. In addition, this will lead to the emptying of the siphons and the appearance of air pockets in the pipes, preventing the drainage of water. Ventilation should take place separately from the general channel of natural exhaust at home. In order for the ventilation of the risers to work properly, it is necessary that it be brought out half a meter above the roof. For this purpose, a sewer aerator is perfect;
- Sanitary appliances located on the same floor must be connected to the riser above the toilet connection. If the appliances are lower, then dirty water will get into them when flushing the toilet.
- The riser should be at least 10 centimeters in diameter (if a toilet is not connected to it, then it is possible to use a pipe from 5 centimeters).
- the riser must be soundproofed. To do this, it can be sheathed with drywall, placed in a wall niche or covered with mineral wool.
- Pipe bends must be made smooth, 30-60 degrees. It is strongly recommended to avoid 90 degree turns.
- Each riser must have a check hatch at the bottom.
- To all sanitary appliances, except for the toilet bowl, you can bring a common pipe for discharging water into the sewer.
- It is important to lay the outer pipe below the freezing point. Also, it needs to be insulated. For her, a revision well is being equipped near the house. To prevent flooding, a sewer check valve is mounted in the pipe. General Sewer Design Tips
In order to properly design a sewer, it is important to take into account the location of the house and calculate the distance to the proposed cesspool.
- The best option would be 5-10 meters.
- You also need to keep in mind that the law provides for the installation of a septic tank at a distance of 4 meters from the neighboring area.
- If you build a cesspool too close to your own home, this can lead to the destruction of the foundation. If you make the cesspool further than 10 meters from the house, this will provoke blockages and other problems in the sewerage system.
Important: when drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account the location of the collector pipe and riser, the relief of the site, its area and soil composition.
It will be necessary to order compilation axonometric scheme systems, which will help to detect and solve installation difficulties. It is necessary to think over the turns, the dimensions of the pipes, interchanges, connections, angles of inclination and rise.
All risers in the house must be brought to the central sewer. If this is not possible, then:
- Arrange local treatment facilities near the house. Waste water will be discharged into the ground. This option is costly during construction, but cost-effective.
- Water must be diverted to a septic tank, and waste is subject to periodic pumping and removal. This method will not require large installation costs, but during operation it will cost a pretty penny.
Drains are cleaned in several ways:
- Aerobic devices- septic tanks- special bacteria that purify wastewater in the course of their life. This method is also called septic tanks without pumping.
- treatment ground facilities- equipped with a filter and drainage through the soil layer. Here it is important to take into account the composition of the soil (soil from sandy loam and sand proved to be a good filt, and from clay and loam - according to chemical indicators). This method is suitable for economy class houses.
If up to 1 m 3 is produced per day (the norm for 4 permanent residents in the house) of drains, then you can arrange well for filtration, if more than 1 m 3, then - drainage well.
Sewerage design with a filter well
This sewage option is suitable for areas where a well can be located at a distance of more 30 metrov wells, the distance from the house and the fence should be at least 2 m, from large shrubs and trees - 3 m. Also, soil must have high filtering properties, so you can use any kind of soil except clay. In addition, groundwater must flow at a depth of 1.5 m, that is, be lower than the drainage level.
Local sewerage project, provided that it is laid in the ground with low filtration rates and with a high groundwater flow:
- As a result, accumulates in the well warm purified water, which can be used for irrigation or simply drained in a convenient place.
Project of a sewage treatment system in sandy soil
Sewerage scheme for sandy soil - This option is designed for low water levels in the ground, where treated wastewaterpour directly into the water. Crushed stone is needed only to improve the efficiency of the entire system (if the absorption goes well, then you can not use it). The outlet pipe goes below the freezing point and must be insulated.
External sewerage project with gravity drain organization
- Most economical option. Due to the lack of pumps, wells and other additions, the cost is reduced to a minimum. This option can be used if the terrain allows and for a short distance.
Sewerage design with drainage system
This version of the sewerage system is easy and easy to design and assemble by yourself, and also it convenient to operate. Project example:
The system provides for a cesspool, with its own installation rules. The septic tank is located next to the house so that the water entering it does not have time to cool. Under influence elevated temperaturedrainsintensify decomposition processes waste. If the septic tank is sealed, then it can be installed even in the basement of the house.
Important condition: it is obligatory to have an exhaust through the sewer riser.
In addition, there are leaky cesspools. They need to be located at a distance of more than 5 meters from the house.
July 7, 2016Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.
Of course, it is best if the wiring of the sewerage in a private house with your own hands is carried out simultaneously with the laying of the foundation, even before the construction of the building box. Of course, this requires preliminary design and layout, but in this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation tape and dismantling the flooring.
But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.
Sewer pipeline installation
Five essential requirements
First, I want to list five basic requirements for you, without which not a single sewer pipe layout in a private house can do. But I will do it briefly to focus your attention on further installation instructions.
- In any case, wherever you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to observe a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to the storage or flow tank - the quality of the drain depends on the correct slope. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again prerequisites for blockage will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
- If this is a sewerage wiring in an apartment, then short sections of the pipeline are obtained there, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on the site exceeds 10 m, revision wells should be equipped there.
- When laying a sewer system in a private house (meaning underground installation), certain distances to objects and structures should be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
- In order to avoid freezing of the system in winter, the laying of the pipeline should be carried out at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
- Pipe laying should be done only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects the PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.
Sewer wiring in the room
First of all, it should be firmly understood that the sewerage wiring diagram in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in its principle. In 99%, the toilet drain will always be the most extreme point - this is a 110-mm pipe, where all the other bathrooms are already inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the upper diagram.
In any case, a 110 pipe is used at the exit from the room, whether it be a riser or a deck chair, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other sewage systems are connected there.
Of course, the slope is also important in the room - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drain is forced - there is even a counter-slope, if required by the features of the room.
In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main sewage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you'd better use the table that I give below.
Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes
For joining pipes to each other, turns and transitions to a different diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, everything, even the most complex interchanges, is carried out. Basically, there is a sewerage distribution in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is concentrated, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.
A washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons are produced with a special outlet, as shown in the top photo.
By and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such a branch, but I personally prefer to make a drain with a 32 mm pipe for this, cutting it into a 50 mm pipe through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.
The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets - they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room that does not have to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.
If you need to hide the pipes, then there are certain inconveniences. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal tape hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.
It happens that during assembly one pipe enters the socket of the other very tightly, while crushing the sealing rubber ring - this usually happens when elements from different manufacturers are connected.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring with liquid dishwashing detergent and all problems are left behind.
Underground installation of the pipeline on the street
| City and surrounding areas | Depth in cm |
| Khanty-Mansiysk | 240 |
| Novosibirsk, Omsk | 220 |
| Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk | 210 |
| Orsk, Kurgan | 200 |
| Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm | 190 |
| Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar | 180 |
| Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk | 170 |
| Samara, Ulyanovsk | 160 |
| Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda | 150 |
| Tver, Moscow, Ryazan | 140 |
| St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd | 120 |
| Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov | 110 |
| Astrakhan, Belgorod | 100 |
| Rostov-on-Don | 90 |
| Stavropol | 80 |
| Kaliningrad | 70 |
| Khanty-Mansiysk | 240 |
| Novosibirsk, Omsk | 220 |
Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia
As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions of Russia is very different from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the site above sea level and the condition or type of soil.
Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the depth of freezing. That is, simply to find out from neighbors or acquaintances at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best orientation.
As I said, the instructions for burying the pipeline are sometimes too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is mounted at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene or mineral wool can be used for this.
There are also special heaters that are made in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal section for installation.
I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although of high quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the cotton wool with a nylon thread, and then cover it all with roofing material, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.
Only wool is needed here either basalt or glass - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.
You will nullify everything if, after insulating the track, you leave revision wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will get bare areas that will be. For their insulation, you can also use mineral wool or polystyrene, but it is much cheaper to do it with expanded clay, but it also needs waterproofing - just cover the pit with roofing material.
Table of required distances between various objects and sewers
In the third paragraph of the heading about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between sewers and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to clearly adhere to such provisions, or your “friendly” neighbors may unreasonably assert this.
Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and outlets of the internal sewerage - this will solve such problems.
Laying stages: 1 - pour the pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - close it with sand
And now I will tell you how the process of laying the pipeline into the trench with your own hands to the storage or flow tank takes place - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to fill in a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm and plan it in accordance with the required slope (on the 110th pipe 18-20 mm / linear m).
Then you lay the highway itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the layer thickness above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.
Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the volatility of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I pour plenty of water on the sand, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour the soil.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I want to add that you may need to insulate the pipeline not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not cancel the sand cushion. But if you have any questions about this topic - ask them in the comments.
July 7, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
