Unlike the usual radiator heating, water began to come into fashion relatively recently. This system is designed for floor heating both in a private house and in an apartment. It is used simultaneously as both a radiator and a heat accumulator. It is able to evenly distribute all the generated thermal energy and also save a lot on it. Many are already thinking about how to make a warm floor from heating.
First of all, you need to figure out where you can install floor heating. Most often it is mounted in country houses, which is due to two main reasons. And the first of them - in apartments that are connected to central heating systems, installation is usually prohibited. warm floors. This is explained by the fact that there is a threat of increasing hydraulic resistance.
The second reason is if you connect to centralized system heating, then the water, having passed through all the pipes of the warm floor, will return to the common riser almost cold.
Given these nuances, in apartments it is best to use electric floor heating, and in country houses - on the contrary, water. In addition, experts recommend using the latter only in insulated buildings or rooms.
Warm floor in the apartment
Many experts do not advise making water floors in high-rise buildings. But still some of them say that there is an exception to the rule.
How to make a warm floor from heating in an apartment without harming neighbors? There is nothing easier, but this only applies to housing on the first (with top wiring) or last floor(at bottom wiring hot water). The fact is that in these apartments the water goes to the return line and it is quite suitable for floor heating, while the heat in other apartments does not decrease.
There is another heating scheme with underfloor heating that does not prejudice the interests of other users. It can be used in a combined bathroom or in the bathroom. But in this case, there can be no question of any temperature adjustment. It directly depends only on the water in the central heating network, and if the latter is too hot, then the floors will warm up accordingly.
Advantages
The use of underfloor heating in apartments and especially in private houses has many advantages over conventional radiator heating. The first of them and perhaps the most important is the most comfortable climate in the house. Uniform heating of the air in the room through the entire surface of the floor almost completely eliminates the risk of colds. The heat emanating from it does not allow the legs to overcool.
A warm water floor makes it possible to expand the space of the room by removing radiators from under the windows. This system is completely hidden under the flooring, does not take up space, and also allows you to make windows in the entire wall.
It can significantly reduce operating costs, as a temperature drop of 2 or 3 degrees will not entail any physical discomfort. In addition, the "warm floor" heating system evenly heats the entire room without creating chilled or overheated zones.
Another advantage is the absence of so-called convection currents. The radiator heating system works in this way - the air is heated, which rises and remains under the ceiling, and when it cools against the opposite wall, it descends to the floor. This is how a constant air cycle occurs, raising and carrying a lot of fine dust.
It should be noted that a warm water floor is an extremely reliable and safe system in terms of operation. Enough simple design and a well-established technology of creation and installation allows it to serve faithfully for a period of at least 50 years, and this is without additional operational maintenance.
Project implementation
Warm floors, where the source of heating is water, are considered low-temperature heating device. The maximum heating of the liquid in such a system is no more than 55 ⁰С. And given that the water pipes are not only under the layer concrete mortar, and finishing material, then the floor surface will be only 35 ⁰С. This temperature is enough to feel comfortable. But with more high rates discomfort will begin to occur when the skin of the feet touches the coating that is too hot.
Heated water floors are always convenient and comfortable. Especially if you do not need to install a water heating boiler. In private houses and apartments with existing radiators, you can make underfloor heating from central heating. To do this, a number of conditions must be met.
In any case, the heating system must be equipped with a circulation pump. If it is still not there, then it is best to purchase and install it than to make a gravity structure with a certain slope of the floor surface. The system can be of two types: one-pipe or two-pipe. In the first case, the supply pipe is connected after the circulation pump, and the return pipe is connected before the pump.
In addition, it is necessary to calculate the length of the contours. For a single-pipe type, it should not exceed 30 m, and for a two-pipe type - 50 m. It happens that the circuit is longer, then it is divided into several parts and laid in parallel or in different zones.
Required Items
Heating systems, where the connection of a warm floor to the boiler is provided, should consist of several main elements:
● metal-polymer or polymer pipes;
● thermal insulation materials;
● heating boiler;
● fasteners, manifolds and fittings;
● control fittings and shut-off ball valves.
Such heating system you can not only mount it yourself, but also make preliminary calculations. If the main source of heat is exclusively a water floor, then it is better to order the project from specialists.
Varieties
Water heating, which is installed on a plane, can be concrete and floor. The first type involves the installation of a warm floor using a concrete screed, and the second - without it. Flooring must be laid on special aluminum plates, pre-coated with a polystyrene gasket, or on wooden floor, as well as on pre-set lags. But still more common and popular is considered concrete screed.
Connection
The most simple circuit connecting a warm floor should look like this: the first collector combines the water supply pipelines, and the second, in turn, reverse. They are also connected to pipes with the coolant itself. This option has one significant drawback - it is simply impossible to regulate the temperature of the water coming from the boiler.
The maximum that can be done is to close the valves, but this does not solve the problem itself. It is known that some outdoor decorative coatings deteriorate if heated to more than 30°C. Therefore, it is desirable to provide for temperature control.
In order for the connection scheme of the warm floor to be complete, you need to add a few additional elements, such as a three-way mixer or pump-mixing unit, a circulation pump, an air vent and a drain cock.
In addition, instead of shut-off valves, it is better to install thermostatic mixers. By changing the size of the paraffin rod, it allows bandwidth crane to function without sudden drops.
The presence of a pumping and mixing unit in the circuit is also necessary. It adds chilled water to the supply when it needs to lower its overall temperature so that it does not exceed acceptable limits.
Worth paying Special attention to install a mixing pump. It must be between the supply pipe and the supply manifold. To its third output, the liquid output from the discharging collector is connected. This allows the pump to take some of the chilled water and add it to the supply.
Mounting order
Before proceeding with the installation of the system, you need to know the sequence of how to make a warm floor from heating according to all existing rules.
The installation procedure consists of several main stages:
● establishment of a collector group;
● leveling the floor surface and its preliminary preparation;
● laying pipelines future system heating;
● temperature control.
Collector group
Work on the installation of underfloor water heating begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, which should be located at the same distance from end users. For example, if the warm floor will be located on the territory of two rooms, then the box must be placed in the middle between them.
In order for the collector cabinet not to spoil the interior of the room, it is hidden inside the wall. During preparatory activities make a special niche with a grinder or puncher. Its size should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the cabinet, and it should be placed near the floor.
The auxiliary water floor system consists of a certain number of pipelines. They are joined in the manifold cabinet and pulled from main system heating. The box must contain both shut-off and control valves.
After installing the collector cabinet, supply and return pipelines are brought into it. Goes first hot water from the central system, and according to the second - already cooled is returned. At the ends of these pipelines, shut-off valves are installed in the form of valves or ball valves, which in right time water supply can be turned off. The transition between them is a special compression fitting.
All the constituent elements of the collector cabinet are connected to a rail with outlet pipes, to which the pipelines forming the circuit are drawn. As you can see in the photo, the scheme for connecting a warm floor is quite simple, so it can be done without the help of a specialist.
Preparing the floor
First of all, you need to check horizontal plane on which the heating system will be located. The warm water floor is laid only on a previously prepared and leveled surface. And this stage of work should not be neglected. The uniformity of heating directly depends on the same layer of screed over the entire surface of the floor.
After leveling, proceed to laying the waterproofing layer. Then, a special damper tape is glued to the walls around the perimeter of the room, which can compensate for the linear expansion of the screed or underfloor heating. The excess is cut off.
Heating "warm floor (water)" is installed only with the use of heat-insulating mats made from materials such as aerated concrete, veloterm, technical cork, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. They prevent heat loss.
Mounting
At this stage, they are engaged in fixing pipelines thermal circuit. The most popular way is to lay and fasten pipes to a special masonry mesh made of metal and laid on a heater. The pipeline is fixed on it with a knitting wire.
In the event that the thermal circuit exceeds a length of 70 m, then a second one is made. The pipeline is always carried out according to this principle - from the colder (windows and doorways) to the warmest zones.
Examination
Hydraulic tests of already laid pipes are carried out only before they begin to fill them. cement-sand mortar. They are considered successful if there are no leaks in the pipeline at a water pressure of 6 atmospheres. The time required for complete drying of the concreted floor is at least 10 days. Only if all installation conditions are met, water heating will be as efficient, reliable and durable as possible.
Adjustment
The temperature of water floor heating can be adjusted in two ways: manual and automatic. The first is done with ball valve, and the second - electric drives. It must be said that automatic adjustment is the most effective for water heating.
When building a new home, the question inevitably arises of what type of heating to choose. Considering all the pros and cons various kinds space heating, you can come to the only right decision, what the best system than water heated floors are simply not to be found. In addition, it can be connected to almost any heat source using various energy carriers. And since it’s not difficult to make a warm floor from heating yourself, you can also save a decent amount of money.
A well-functioning heating system is a guarantee comfortable living at home, regardless of the weather. Along with the traditional radiator technology devices heating circuit actively use the system of warm water floor. Its installation is laborious and financially costly, but this heating option pays off in 5 years.
In order to somehow save money, many equip a warm water floor in a private house on their own. Agree, the idea of getting efficient heating with minimal capital investment is very attractive, isn't it? However, its implementation requires certain knowledge and skills from the performer.
We propose for consideration detailed material for the arrangement of water heated floors. The article sets out the design rules, gives advice on choosing system components, and also describes the step-by-step progress of work on laying, connecting and starting the water circuit.
It is recommended to include the device of an additional heating circuit in the project even before the start of construction - it is easier to make calculations this way.
In a ready-made new house or building where the radiator system has been operating for a long time, installation of a water floor is also possible, but under certain conditions.
The advantages of water heating have long been appreciated by residents of Europe and Russia: it effectively heats rooms, saves expensive energy, creates the most comfortable environment in bedrooms, bathrooms and children's rooms
If the desire to insulate the floor arose after the construction of the house, it should be established whether the building is suitable for this. One of the main conditions is pre-made thermal insulation of the house, since heat losses above 100 W / m² will make floor installation useless.
Pay attention to the height of the ceilings: the installation "pie" with pipes takes about 15 cm, or even more from overall height rooms. After the implementation of the system, the dimensions must be maintained doorways, height from 210 cm and more.
Such schemes are recognized as the least energy-consuming, the most efficient and inexpensive to operate. Options with solid fuel boilers are also allowed.
The flawless operation of the system is possible only under two conditions: professionally performed design calculations and competently carried out installation.
Therefore, the first steps towards installing a water-heated floor in a country house or in a private house are the analysis of the structure, the choice of materials, and the preparation of a project.
The nuances of underfloor heating
The design of the construction of a water floor is complex and simple at the same time. It is multicomponent in composition, so the main thing is to follow the order of laying all layers.
No. 2 - we decide on a heater
The main purpose of the insulation is to separate the screed with pipes from the base so that the heat is transferred upwards, and does not go into the ground in vain. A heat-insulating layer is required; without it, the installation of a warm floor loses its meaning.
The article will give step-by-step instruction installation of underfloor heating with water coolant and practical advice professional specialists. We will pay main attention important nuances for the correct installation of the system.
Before starting work, you need to make a calculation of the heating system, determine the length and diameter of the pipes, controls and controls, and a list of shut-off valves. In addition, you must choose one of several possible types insulation and waterproofing. During the selection of materials and the calculation of the technical parameters of the underfloor heating system, the material of the flooring is taken into account.
The thickness of the thermal insulation made of foam plastic or expanded polystyrene is approximately 100 mm; for warm regions or second floors, this parameter can be reduced by 30-50%.
Let's consider the option of installing a warm floor according to concrete floors on the ground floor, for waterproofing we use cheap polyethylene film≈ 30–40 µm thick, upper screed with semi-dry concrete, finishing flooring- ceramic tile. We buy plastic pipes for the system, a metal mesh is used to strengthen the strength of the upper screed and fix the pipes.
Step 1. Preparing the base
The main attention should be paid to irregularities. Although expanded polystyrene has good performance physical strength, long-term loads in separate places cause it to deform. Accordingly, the pipeline system is deformed, the upper screed "sags", additional and unnecessary efforts for a break appear. In the most unpleasant cases, these phenomena can reach critical values and adversely affect the finish flooring. As a result, complex repairs will have to be made.
There is another nuance that you need to pay attention to during the preparation of the foundation. It means the place of fixation damper tape to Wall. In order to avoid the appearance of unnecessary air "pockets" at the junction of the tape, the wall must be leveled. You can use a spatula, but if you have enough experience in construction work, then you can do it well with a trowel, it will turn out much faster.
Step 2. Laying waterproofing and insulation
Film floor waterproofing
As we already mentioned, the thickness of the insulation depends on the floor and climate zone residence. If you need to make a thermal insulation layer thicker than 5 cm, then we recommend not buying one thick plate, but two thin ones.
Thick slabs can be used to insulate walls; in this position, bending loads do not act on them at all. The laws of physics say that two thin plates have a greater margin of bending before cracking than one thick one. It means that the total thickness is the same in both cases. Such features will allow insulation to compensate for possible flaws in the preparation of the base. Insulation must be laid in such a way that the joints overlap.
If the plates could not be accurately cut and noticeable gaps appeared at the joints, then they must be sealed mounting foam. Many builders advise fixing the damper tape over the insulation directly under cement screed, such an option has the right to be. We do not welcome this decision, after all, it is much more efficient and more reliable to fix it before insulation, it will help to ideally close the gaps around the perimeter of the room without using mounting foam.
Practical advice. It is not necessary to wait until the foam is completely dry and then cut off the excess. As soon as the first row of insulation is foamed, immediately put the second one on it. Fresh foam is an excellent adhesive for all foam materials, it will securely bind the two layers of insulation together, thereby increasing the strength of the lower layer.
Step 3. Installing the reflective film
Get one that has 5 mm square markings, this will help you accurately control the process of laying the pipelines of the system. Most of the "advisers" tell how this film should be hermetically sealed with adhesive tape at the junction and around the perimeter, what a huge heat savings this will result in. All this is not true, in this way it is necessary to seal the vapor and waterproofing, the film does not save any heat. If you have correctly laid the heat-insulating plates, then there is no need to waste time gluing the film. Hired teams are engaged in such a business for only one reason: this is very easy work, and the customer will pay good money for their implementation. Glue seams only if concrete base there is no waterproofing from a polyethylene film.
Although, as the practice of accidents with a thermal floor shows, any hydroprotection in these cases has a zero effect. The water will rise in level until it finds a leak. And she will definitely find it, rest assured. If you have made an ideal multilayer waterproofing and it does not go down, it will appear at the top. What difference does it make what needs to be repaired - the ceiling of the lower floor or the floor of the upper one? The sooner a leak is detected, the less damage to all structures. If water wets the walls for a long time, then a fungus will certainly appear on them, etc. During the installation of a warm floor with water heating, the main attention should be paid to the tightness of the system, and not to gluing the seams of the film with adhesive tape.
Step 4. Laying the pipes of the heating system
We strongly recommend that you draw several variants of schemes before laying. It takes very little time and avoids annoying mistakes. In addition, during the preparation of schemes, it is possible to select optimal location contours, taking into account their length and geometry.
practical advice. There is correct recommendations do not lay pipes under furniture installation sites, it will overheat and quickly lose its attractiveness. We advise you to act very thoughtfully. Who can guarantee that in these places the furniture will stand all the time, that you will not want to rearrange it or completely redevelop the premises?
The length of each circuit must take into account the power of the water pump, the data are indicated in the operating instructions, carefully study it before starting installation.
Otherwise, situations are possible when the floor temperature in different areas of the room will differ significantly, and it will become difficult to achieve comfortable room heating values.
Pipes can be fixed in two ways:
- special brackets immediately on the reflective film, to facilitate the process, a grid is applied to it. The system is fixed with special brackets. The method is not bad, the work is done quickly and efficiently;
- to the metal reinforcing mesh. She lays down on heat reflective film, pipes are fixed with plastic clamps. We believe that this method has no advantages over the first one. But it has disadvantages: an additional increase in the cost of installation and the danger mechanical damage pipes. As a reinforcing element in this position, the mesh does not play any role. According to building regulations it must be filled with concrete on all sides to a thickness of at least five centimeters, only in this position the mesh works in conjunction and increases the physical strength of the screed.
Very important. The way you connect the piping system determines the safety and durability of the heating system.
Never buy low-quality fittings and valves made of weak alloys. The fact is that they eventually crack under the influence of material fatigue phenomena. As a rule, leaks form at the junction of the nut and fitting. Visually, the crack is not visible, it seems that the reason is a poorly tightened gasket. Attempts to tighten the nut always end sadly - the threaded part of the fitting breaks off and remains in the nut. It is very difficult to take it out of there, most often you have to change a pair. Perfect option fittings are made of stainless steel, bronze is also suitable. All other non-ferrous alloys are not worth buying. No need to save on fittings, their importance in the heating system can hardly be overestimated.
One more nuance. Use for sealing connections only rubber gaskets, you should not use paronite, it must be tightened strongly, not all fittings will withstand such efforts. And the last. Elements working in pairs must be of the same metal. This is necessary in order to avoid the occurrence critical stresses due to the difference in thermal expansion.
There are several nuances during work with a screed along the contour of the water supply.
- The first. There are problems with the installation of beacons. Modern metal slats do not fit, you need to use the old technology. Make beacons from a mixture, pour longitudinal lines from it at a distance slightly less than the length of the trowel. Using the level to catch the horizontal. In order to speed up the setting time of the beacons, you can sprinkle them with dry cement several times. If there is not enough experience with the rule, then you need to put even metal or wooden planks on the beacons. They will not allow violations of the provisions upper surface beacons when the rule is pressed too hard.
- Second. During the work, try not to step on the joints and fixing of the pipes, they can become loose or completely slip out. This applies to those cases when the pipes are fixed with brackets directly to the insulation boards.
Dry screed has sufficient strength for installation of all types of finishing floor coverings, including those made of heavy natural stone. In addition, this method makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of building materials and reduce the time of work. Proceed to further work with a floor it is possible in 12 hours. For wet concrete, the time is at least doubled.
Practical advice. The temperature sensor is installed in the middle between the turns of the pipes. In order to be able to replace it if necessary, mount the sensor in corrugated pipe. Plug one end of the pipe.
On this construction works finished, you can connect the heating to the control and regulation system.
Video - Installing a warm floor in a two-story house
When building a private house, sooner or later the question arises of what kind of heating system will be created. All more people prefer warm floor, which is designed to perfectly heat the room, thereby creating unsurpassed comfort in it.
Now apartment owners also resort to this type of heating at home. Installation of a water floor can be done by hand, but you need to know how to make a warm floor from heating.
Characteristics of the warm floor
Underfloor heating from heating can be called the most economical option with central heating. In order to carry out its installation, it is necessary to take into account a number of aspects. The essence of such horizontal heating is the endless circulation of hot water from the central heating battery along a special floor circuit.
The floor can be single or double. The circuit itself is a curved pipe through which hot water passes. In the process of circulation, the pipe heats up and intensively gives off heat to the floor covering.
In order for circulation to occur correctly and productively, a special pump is needed. If the heating batteries do not have it, then it will be necessary to purchase it. Some homeowners decide to do without it by creating a slope in the contour with their own hands, but this process is too laborious and, in essence, impractical, because you can just buy a pump.
A system with a slope in the circuit implies circulation under the influence of physics, namely gravity. In this case, the movement of water will not have the required speed, and heating due to the slope will be uneven.
An important aspect is the calculation of the length of the contours. It depends directly on the area of the room. If the room is small, then one pipe will be enough. Its length should not exceed 30 meters.
If the quadrature exceeds 17 sq.m., then two pipes will be required. In this case, the length of the circuit should not exceed 50 meters. You can separate the contours if the length of the pipes is more than 30 and 50 meters, respectively, but they must be laid in parallel.
Preparatory work
A water heating system can be durable and extremely wear-resistant if installed in accordance with all the rules. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface for drawing the contour.
- It is necessary to free the floor from the floor covering with your own hands, if any. The subfloor must be "bare".
- The water floor system can only be installed on flat surface. If there are cracks or other flaws on the surface, they must be eliminated with cement. The presence of distortions can be seen using the level.
- If the irregularities are insignificant, then it will be enough to fill the perimeter with an even layer of sand. Some experts recommend using quartz sand. Since this is an additional thermal insulation of the layer.
- The use of a damper tape is an integral stage of work. It is glued to the wall around the entire perimeter of the room, as well as at the junction of the contours. This material absorbs vibrations and provides additional thermal insulation. The process of rapid heating and cooling, thanks to the damper, will not promise the destruction of the screed. For the convenience and speed of this procedure, it is recommended to purchase rolls with an adhesive side. The tape is attached to the concrete with dowel-nails.
The preparatory work for the water floor is completed on this, then you need to think about installing thermal insulation with your own hands.
Creation of thermal insulation
The heat-insulating layer is necessary so that the heat from the heater does not go down into the cement screed. To create this layer, you can use the most various materials of which the most popular are:
- Mineral wool or other fibrous filler;
- Quartz sand;
- Expanded clay;
- Styrofoam;
- Branded roll insulation with asbestos.
Each of these materials has excellent characteristics, but different cost. If you choose a budget heater for a water floor in an apartment, then you can stop at mineral wool, but she is very afraid of moisture. Styrofoam works great, but when ignited, it releases very toxic smoke that poisons everything around.
Expanded clay also has a low cost. If the choice fell on this bulk material, then you should choose fractions with a minimum number of pores and small size. This guarantees layer density and excellent performance.
In the conditions of an apartment, roll insulation of well-known brands is most often used. It perfectly performs its functions and, among other things, is not afraid of moisture and fire. All thanks to the presence of asbestos in the composition.
After installing the thermal insulation with your own hands, you should cover it with a dense plastic film. This is necessary so that the concrete screed, which will be poured underfloor heating did not penetrate the thermal insulation.
The scheme of the water circuit in the apartment should be thought out in advance. First, sheets of reinforcement are laid on a plastic film. They shouldn't be too thick. Many masters prefer a scheme in the form of a snake or a spiral.
The distance between the pipes should not be less than 15 cm. This guarantees excellent heating. If a severe frosts does not happen in a particular region, then the distance can be increased to 30 cm. Laying must take place in strict accordance with the plan. No overlap.
The do-it-yourself installation system must be done by two people. One pair of hands is engaged in laying the pipe, and the second is fixing with clamps. For this, the previously laid reinforcement is useful, because the pipe is tied to it with clamps.
The end of the contour must be led to the distribution point. There should also be a thermostat. The pipe tip is fixed with metal sleeves. Before the first water supply, it is necessary to test the system with air in order to identify unwanted holes in the pipes.
After a thorough check of the entire system and a full connection to the central heating in the apartment, the screed is poured. Its thickness depends solely on the thickness of the warm floor itself. The screed mixture may be different.
When creating a composition, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions, since deviation from them can reduce the service life of the future coating. Concrete and cement mixtures differ only in composition. Some are more suitable for rooms with high humidity, some ready to impact low temperatures. Pick up the most suitable option recommended with a knowledgeable person.
The thermostat in the apartment must be selected in advance. You can see in the store a wide range of such devices. The simplest of them are mechanical. They are easy to use and inexpensive. Automatic or sensor analogues are expensive, but they allow you to set a specific heating schedule and save the settings for several days or even months.
Today, the installation of a heating hydraulic circuit in the flooring is extremely popular among our compatriots. The reason for this is the extremely unsatisfactory operation of classical radiator heating with a centralized supply of coolant. The hype around the "warm floor" technology makes many "craftsmen" go for a direct ban by the authorities, arbitrarily installing heating in an apartment on the floor, violating the heat balance and increasing hydraulic resistance in the heating system (CO) of the whole house.
Legal ways to implement a water heated floor in apartments apartment buildings there is and you can connect the underfloor heating system from the central heating. This publication will consider several operating schemes that will not cause hydraulic and thermal imbalance in CO.
Scheme of the "secondary ring"
This scheme can be implemented with a single-pipe CO in an apartment. The primary ring is the central CO; secondary - the contour of the "warm floor".
- Insert in central system heating is carried out only in the return line, at the outlet of the radiator.
- Installed on the circuit shut-off valves, and on the return line the “warm floor” rings also check valve, preventing the movement of the coolant in the opposite direction.
- Water heated floor in the apartment is equipped with mixing unit, which includes a pump and a three-way valve.
Despite its simplicity, this scheme is effective, but only if correct installation and a clear assembly sequence.
Tip: The problem is whether you can prove to the utilities that this scheme efficient and does not lead to an imbalance in the centralized CO. As a rule, specialists of controlling services refer to the prohibition of making any structural changes to the heating system. Therefore, we strongly recommend that you consult with a lawyer and a professional heating engineer before creating a warm floor using this technology.
100% of heat engineers will say that without violating the law, you can create underfloor heating in an apartment with individual heating.
Despite the prohibition of public utilities on making any changes to the centralized heating system, experts came up with such a scheme, the implementation of which will create an autonomous CO, where the tank will act as a heat generator indirect heating (buffer capacity, heat accumulator), heat exchanger.
This system does not affect the design of the central CO in any way, does not change the pressure and does not increase the hydrostatic resistance. The numbers indicate the following equipment:
- 1 circulation pump
- 2 Three-way mixer
- 3 and 4 ball valves
- 15 Heat exchanger piping group which includes: check valve; ball valve with a mud trap.
To assemble a warm floor from heating in an apartment with your own hands according to this scheme, anyone can do it home master. For a clearer understanding of the assembly process, we recommend watching a video on the topic:
Nuances to keep in mind
Underfloor heating or radiator: which is better for an apartment
Every day, a huge number of our compatriots are wondering how to make a warm floor from heating, as they are firmly convinced that this apartment heating design is more efficient than a classic radiator one. Consider economic feasibility each SO.
- The underfloor heating system is more economical. This issue is especially important for the owner of autonomous COs and the owner of apartments with heat meters. For this design, as the main heating system, it is necessary to reduce the heat loss of the dwelling to the level of 40-50 W / m 2. But with such low heat losses, the radiator CO will be no less effective.
- There is a common belief that when heated by means of radiators, “it is hot at the top, and cold near the floor.” As a rule, everything rests, again, on the insulation of the home. If it complies with European standards, then the air temperature difference under the ceiling and near the floor, even with radiators, will be minimal, 1-2°C.
- The level of comfort increases significantly if you install the "warm floor" system in all areas of the apartment. Indeed, it is more pleasant to walk on such a floor, but answer yourself the question whether you are ready to find yourself in the whole apartment from carpet, linoleum and others. floor coverings in favor ceramic tiles with the best heat transfer?
And finally, compare the costs of implementing a "water-heated floor" project, including permits, a project with calculations, expensive installation and operability setup with high efficiency, which is quite controversial.
Tip: Competent calculation of a water-heated floor is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge of many nuances. That is why for their implementation, contact only professionals.
