How to make a partition from a profile. How to make a round wall of drywall - detailed instructions. What materials and tools will be needed

Drywall is a building material for walls and ceilings. Most often it is used for leveling the surface or for mounting partitions. A rounded shape is not a very common option, but sometimes it is a great way to decorate a room in an original way. It is advisable to mount a round wall when you need to slightly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone room at the expense of another. It is also a great option to smooth out sharp corners. It has been proven that the protruding parts of the layout are more susceptible to mechanical damage than the rounded ones. And if you have small children, it is also much safer.

Required materials and tools

To make a rounded partition, you will need drywall sheets with a thickness of 6.8 or 9.5 mm. There are also thicker plates, but they are not suitable for our purposes. You will also need a profile on which drywall sheets will be attached. You will also need yaminvata, as well as screws or self-tapping screws for fasteners.

From the tools, prepare a hacksaw, a grinder, a construction compass, metal shears, a pencil, a level, a needle roller, a screwdriver, a square, a construction knife. This set will be quite enough to implement the idea.

How to make a round wall of drywall with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Carefully thought out step-by-step actions will lead to the desired result. To begin with, determine the exact place where the partition will stand and roughly estimate its dimensions. And after preparing all the tools and materials, you can proceed with the installation.

Stage 1. Template preparation

The template is made from an ordinary piece of cardboard, plywood, and best of all - their piece of drywall. It is necessary to carefully measure the required bending radius, and then, using a construction compass, draw a semicircle on the material. We cut out the shape with a hacksaw or a construction knife - the template is ready.

Stage 2. Markup

Attach the template to the walls to be joined and, using a simple pencil, make markings on the floor. In this case, the flat side of the workpiece should be inside the room. Strictly parallel, the same markup should be done on the ceiling. If drawing a semicircle is difficult enough, you can simply screw the cardboard blank with a couple of screws to keep it in place. Another option is to fix a cardboard template on the floor, and on top - its trimmings of the same shape. The position of the templates above and below must be exactly the same.

Stage 3. Preparing the guides

For the installation of a drywall wall, a metal profile is suitable, which must be correctly bent. To do this is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. For. To give the profile an arcuate shape, you need to mark it every 5 cm and draw lines along it. Along these lines, using a grinder, make cuts on one of the sides of the profile. And then cut the base with scissors. Thanks to these manipulations, the metal profile can now be easily bent into an arc of the desired shape and size. Make two such blanks - for the floor and for the ceiling. The arc must match the drawn lines.

Stage 4. Mounting the frame

Attach the previously prepared arcs from metal guides to the ceiling and floor using self-tapping screws. Now you can insert vertical frame elements into them. It is not necessary to make a continuous crate, but the smaller the gaps between the vertical profile, the smoother the semicircular wall will turn out. The guides must be strictly vertical, without slopes and bends.

In order to simplify the further installation of drywall on the frame, make markings on the floor exactly where the profile is located.

Stage 5. Installing the outer side of the wall

In order for drywall to take the desired shape, it must be moistened with water. Despite the fact that the outer parts of the material consist of ordinary cardboard, it will not soften or fall apart. Leave the plasterboard sheets for about 20 minutes so that they can be completely saturated with moisture. After that, they must be handled very carefully so as not to tear or damage the top coating.

Take the drywall sheet and attach it to the vertical profiles. Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, screw the edge of the sheet to the first profile, and then carefully bend the drywall until it touches the second post. After attaching to the second rail, repeat the procedure until you complete the installation.

Long sheets are inconvenient to mount, and in the process they are easy to damage. Cut drywall in advance so that the wall consists of two horizontal layers.

Stage 6. Soundproof layer

Mineral wool is an excellent soundproofing material. In addition, it is very easy to lay it in the gaps between the guides. The thickness of the soundproof layer will be equal to the thickness of the metal profile. Cut mineral wool slabs into thin strips so that they are removed between the racks. It is not necessary to fasten them in a special way, they will hold perfectly anyway. It is even better if the mineral wool partially goes inside the guides.

Soundproofing is optional, but then be prepared for the fact that the hollow wall will let through and even amplify even the slightest noise in the next room.

Stage 7. Installing the inside of the wall

Mounting the inner part of the arc is similar to mounting the outer side of the wall. To begin with, you should also moisten the drywall boards and wait for them to soften. And after about 20 minutes, you can proceed to the installation. For convenience, a needle roller is used, which rolls the inside of the gypsum board until the desired bend is obtained. Attach the sheet to the extreme rack of the frame and attach it with screws or self-tapping screws. Next, continue to firmly press the already curved sheet against the guides and secure it. As in the case of the outer skin, it is also advisable to make the inner skin in two rows in order to avoid cracking and breaking of the plates.

Stage 8. Installation of the second layer of drywall

To obtain a solid and reliable construction, plasterboard partitions are made of several layers of material. On the already finished semicircular sheathing, you need to attach another layer of drywall. Here, the actions will be absolutely similar to the installation of the first sheets, but things will go much faster and easier. Moisten the drywall, wait for it to soften, and work with a spiked roller to make it bend better. First, fix the sheets on the outside, and then on the inside of the wall, while it is important not to get screws into those places where they already exist. Sheets are fixed on the previously fixed drywall.

Stage 9. Alignment

In order to perform further finishing of the round wall, it must first be leveled. This will require a putty suitable for drywall work. With its help, you need to close up all the joints between the sheets, as well as the places where the drywall sheet is fixed with screws. When the composition dries, it must be sanded to perfect smoothness.

The drywall wall is ready for finishing. If the alignment is done well, then even thin paper wallpapers can be glued to such a wall. In general, a plasterboard partition can be finished in any way possible.

Despite the fact that the installation process is not difficult, the advice of professionals will help you avoid mistakes and increase the efficiency and speed of work.

• When installing a rounded wall, the main thing is a careful development of the project, including all the nuances of lighting, the arrangement of interior doors and communications.
• To wet drywall sheets, it is advisable to use a spray gun, with which uniform spraying is achieved.
• When choosing drywall, consider the type of room where the rounded wall will be installed. For an ordinary room - a bedroom, a living room, a nursery, an office - a standard GKL sheet designed for dry rooms is ideal. It is easy to give it the desired shape. For rooms with high humidity, use moisture-resistant GKLV material.
• When mounting the sheet to the guides, try to wrap the screws in a checkerboard pattern, this will increase the strength of the structure, the drywall sheets will not hang on the frame.
• If you are planning to wallpaper or paint your wall, pay close attention to the finish of the drywall sheets.

Installation of a rounded plasterboard partition is easy to do with your own hands. After studying the theory, you need to draw up a design project directly for your room. A step-by-step master class for installing a rounded drywall partition is presented in the video tutorial

The main task of repair in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal. Indeed, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly even walls. Aligned on the principle of "at least somehow." You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster over the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: to level the surface of the wall with drywall (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the repair process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions, put new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell in the article.

How to sheathe walls with drywall

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. The first is that not everywhere there is glue under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fasten something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a mortgage beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. There is a difference of 2-3 mm. Between the "pieces" of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, it's not a bad way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to the wall, we will talk about the frame and mostly metal. The rules for fastening to wood are the same, just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. The standard dimensions are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a “non-standard” of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers positions thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If you need to join the sheets in height, arrange the joints so that you do not get a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid apart or with a shift. At the same time, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you will get rid of cracks with almost 100% probability (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet located on top should be installed so that the junction of the bottom one falls on its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

What to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take TN25 self-tapping screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores, they are called “for drywall”. Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, they are selected close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the desired depth during installation: the cap must be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard must not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how to simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two along the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls on the middle of the profile.

Stepping back from the edge of 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Mounted around the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially true for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (excluding the features of installing profiles).

Drywall partition

Installing the partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

markup

First mark the place of installation of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use the usual construction (good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark the line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Like it or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as how thick the insulation and / or soundproofing material can be laid there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing the load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that a heater is then installed.

Racks to the rails are attached in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. Amateur builders, when working with drywall on their own, attach to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). Racks are fixed on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One moment: if you put a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then put a special film or some kind of material between the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, which will prevent squeaking. When people walk, there are vibrations that are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and creak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided and there are no unpleasant sounds.

Rack spacing is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the drywall sheet (drywall), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bump” - the sheet will stagger and sag. Another point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, and attached to a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the beam does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

Jumpers are usually located at the height where two sheets will be joined. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - put it in 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars are required above the doorway: at the height of the door frame. It is also desirable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and electrical wiring. It is desirable to mount all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If you put a partition in a wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized steel frame, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses from non-combustible raw materials (there is a “NG” mark).

Plasterboard sheathing and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, they begin to install drywall sheets. They are mounted in the same way as when sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall sheathing begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, a heater and / or a sound insulator are installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the GKL wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and partitions made of drywall use the usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line on the front side with a pencil along which drywall should be cut;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, because of which the gypsum breaks along the cut line;
• break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the hardest part. And on how correctly the frame is made, it depends on how even the wall or partition will be.

How to make a false plasterboard wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but this does not mean that it is wrong. Racks are really more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from drywall. This is where reinforcement comes in handy. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved. There are different models of profiles on the market, including those with uneven, but rough walls and sidewalls. With an equal thickness of the metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite affordable, you can take it as a basis and build plasterboard walls with your own hands.

Our topic today is the technology of making a plasterboard wall. We have to find out what and how to make the frame of the future partition, how to properly sheathe it and prepare it for fine finishing. Let's get started.

First, a few words about the materials from which plasterboard walls are built in apartments and private houses.

frame

This is done in two cases:

1. under wallpaper. They are firmly glued to the GKL shell, and when you try to remove the coating during the next repair, you have every chance to tear the kraft paper from the gypsum base. A layer of putty will allow you to remove the wallpaper without damaging the wall;

1. For leveling the surface at the level of the seams, in the event that they remain visible after puttying. If the factory edges of the PLUK (thinned with rounding) allow you to bring the reinforced seam to the same level with the surface of the sheet, then the rectangular edges of the sheets cut in place do not provide such an opportunity. A millimeter layer of putty will completely hide the seams.

A few subtleties of putty:

• When mixing putty, pour gypsum into a container of water, and do not pour water into a container with dry mix. The price of non-compliance with this requirement is insoluble lumps at the bottom, which will leave grooves when puttying;

• The manufacturer's instructions for the dosage of water and dry gypsum mixture must be strictly observed. Too liquid putty will constantly drain from the spatula, and you will not be able to apply too thick a thin layer on the wall;
• When sealing joints, close at a time no more than 1-2 kilograms of dry mix. Gypsum putty is suitable for work no more than 45-60 minutes and is produced rather slowly;
• Be sure to wash both the dishes and spatulas after working out the next portion of gypsum. Otherwise, the seized putty from the previous portion, again, will leave grooves in the finish;

• When applying the second layer of putty to the seams and when filling the entire surface of the plasterboard, use a wide spatula, applying narrow gypsum to it;

• If it is difficult for you to apply a uniform layer of millimeter thickness - putty the wall in two layers “on a peel”. The final coating thickness will be the same.

Prefinishing

Preparation for fine finishing consists of three stages:

1. The wall is polished in bright oblique light. Lighting will let you see the slightest putty defects. For work, you can use a manual grater, vibration or disc grinder;

1. The surface is then cleaned of dust. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner (preferably industrial, its filters will completely trap gypsum dust) or with an ordinary whisk;
2. GCR is primed with penetrating soil using a wide brush or roller (see Do-it-yourself drywall primer).

Attention: wallpaper can be glued immediately after the primer has dried, but painting with water-dispersion paint must wait at least two weeks. If the gypsum hydration processes are not completed in the putty, the seams will stand out in a shade, regardless of the number of layers of paint.

Problems and Solutions

How to make the walls in the drywall hall absolutely impervious to sound?

Make the frame of the partition double (with a minimum distance between the rails and uprights) and sheathe it in two layers. This design will provide maximum sound insulation due to the acoustic decoupling of the two sides of the skin.

How to build sliding plasterboard walls (with a sliding door)?

In the same way, but with an increased distance between the frames. In the role of a jumper, a beam is mounted above the opening, with a section of at least 100x50 mm: it will have to take the load from the weight of the doors.

By the way: a double frame with a gap is also used in cases where large-diameter communications (ventilation or sewerage) need to be laid in the wall. Racks of frames for greater rigidity are interconnected by horizontal jumpers.

Is it possible to make a wall as rigid as possible without increasing its thickness?

Yes. Here are the easiest ways to achieve this:

1. Insert into the rack profiles along a bar with a section of 5x5 cm;
2. Insert PS profiles into each other and mount them in pairs;

1. Reduce the spacing between posts to 300 or 400 mm. The main thing is that the width of the GCR remains a multiple of this step.

How to install a door in a wall made of plasterboard?

This is done when mounting the frame:

1. Make a gap in the bottom guide to its width;

1. Expose one of the racks adjacent to the door and fix it;
2. Assemble the door block and wedge the door leaf in the box to avoid rubbing jambs with it in the future;
3. Apply a strip of mounting foam to the rack and tighten it with self-tapping screws to the door block that is set strictly vertically;
4. On the opposite side, fasten in the same way and pull the second rack to the guides;
5. Connect the racks with a horizontal jumper.

How to make it possible to install hanging furniture on a plasterboard partition?

Place wooden mortgages (timber or thick plywood) into the frame from the side of the shelves or cabinets.

Conclusion

We hope that our advice will help the reader in the repair and decoration of their homes. You can see more clearly how drywall partition walls are assembled in the video in this article. Good luck!

Drywall (GKL) consists of two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core with various additives that give additional properties: moisture and fire resistance, strength, etc. It is an easy-to-process, versatile sheet material suitable for leveling walls and installing interior partitions. GKL is not suitable only for rooms with constantly high humidity.

We level the wall with drywall with our own hands

There are two ways to cover surfaces with drywall sheets: on the frame or directly to the wall. It is impossible to do without crates if:

• the walls are very crooked - the deviation from the vertical is more than 4 cm;
• heat and noise insulation is required - a heater is placed between the wall and the GKL layer, and a frame is needed to obtain a gap.

Frame method

The standard step between the axes of the vertical racks of the lathing under the plasterboard is 60 cm. This size is linked to the width of the drywall sheet. The frame is mounted from a special metal profile or wooden bars. Disadvantages of wood: rots, swells or cracks, treatment with antiseptic and flame retardant agents is required.

Types of steel wall profile for frames under plasterboard:

1. Guide (П-shaped, PN, UW). It is installed along the perimeter of the plasterboard wall, as the basis of the crate.
2. Rack-mounted (C-shaped, PS, CW). It is mainly used to make vertical jumpers between the guides.
3. Corner (perforated, with reinforcing mesh, PU). It is designed for finishing outside corners. This profile is glued to drywall with putty.

The guide and rack profile is available in several sizes. For a single-layer sheathing, a width of 50 mm is sufficient, for a two-layer sheathing - at least 75. When choosing, the height and width of the wall, and the load are also taken into account. If there is a layer of insulation between it and the GKL, then the profile is taken wide, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Advantages of frame cladding:

1. Strong fixation of drywall.
2. The ability to hide electrical wiring or pipes, no need to ditch the walls.

Disadvantages:

1. Space is “eaten up” - at least 6 cm from each sheathed wall.
2. Low strength, as there is a gap behind the drywall. If you need to hang cabinets or heavy shelves, then the sheathing has to be done in two layers (total thickness of at least 18 mm) or the step between the racks of the crate should be reduced to 40 cm. Furniture fasteners are placed on the profile. The advantage of a two-layer sheathing is good heat and noise insulation.

A metal profile of any kind has a standard length of 3 m, a rack profile can be found 4 meters long - it is chosen if the wall height is more than 3 m. A frame made of extended pieces of a 3-meter profile will be fragile. Cutting is most conveniently done with simple metal scissors.

Frameless way

If the walls in the room are relatively even, then you can save on the frame and save the usable area. GKL to the sheathed surface is fixed with dowels or on a special plaster glue. You can combine both methods. Instead of glue, it is allowed to use mounting foam.

If the deviation from the vertical is from 2 to 4 cm, then first beacons from drywall scraps are attached to the wall. The first ones are installed in the corners, a rope is pulled between them, along which additional beacons are glued every 40 cm. Their level is regulated by changing the thickness of the gypsum adhesive layer. Markings are applied to the wall, this helps to glue the sheets evenly.

You can start sheathing after the glue has completely set under the beacons

Fastening to the frame: step by step instructions

The procedure for sheathing the frame with drywall:

1. Start work from the corner.
2. It is recommended to cut the edge on the GKL at an angle of approximately 30 ° (one third of the thickness). This is necessary to press the putty into the seams. On sale there is drywall, in which the edge already has the desired shape. On cut blanks (for example, when finishing openings), cuts along the edges are mandatory.
3. Set the screwdriver to medium speed and put a self-tapping screw on the bit.
4. Place a stand up to 1 cm thick from below under the first sheet to create a gap.
5. Firmly press the GKL to the frame.
6. Screw in the self-tapping screws so that they are recessed into the surface by about 1 mm. Then the hats are easy to putty. The step between the screws is no more than 20 cm, if the skin is made in two layers, then on the first one you can do up to 75 cm. The first layer is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws that fix it on the second. The distance from the top or bottom of the sheet to the screw is 15 mm, to the right and left they recede by 10 mm.
7. Consistently fasten all sheathing sheets. Each is attached to at least three profiles, the edges of the plasterboard must fall exactly in the middle of the rack. Small cuts can only be fixed to two profiles. When installing the top sheets under the ceiling, also leave a gap.

On adjacent sheets, self-tapping screws are placed with a slight offset. If the cladding is done in two layers, then the second one is started to be mounted only after the putty has dried in the seams of the first one.

GKL dimensions

Standard dimensions of wall drywall: 2500 or 2700 mm by 1200 mm, thickness 12.5 mm. If the distance from floor to ceiling is more than 2.7 m, then sheets 3 m long are taken. For wall cladding on which heavy objects will hang, high-strength drywall 15 mm thick is chosen. On sale there are also small-format sheets - 1500 x 600 mm. It is convenient to work with them alone. Minus - more seams.

For a two-layer finish, you can buy plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm (ceiling).

How to dock

If the length of one sheet is not enough for the entire height of the wall, then the upper parts of the skin are fastened so that the seams between them do not coincide with the joints between the lower ones. Otherwise, you will not achieve sufficient strength. The seams are sealed with putty and reinforcing tape.

When performing double skinning, the joints on the first and second layers should also not coincide. If the distance between the racks of the frame is 60 cm, then the seams of the first layer are made on even profiles, the second on odd ones. If it is impossible to comply with this condition, then the displacement is performed arbitrarily - a minimum of 5 cm.

How to fix

GKL is attached to the crate with special self-tapping screws for drywall for metal or wood (selected for the frame material). The screw must protrude at least 10 mm from the back of the crate. This also applies to self-tapping screws for the second layer of double skin. For fixing a standard wall plasterboard (12.5 mm) in one layer, the optimal length of the self-tapping screw is 25 mm, in two layers - from 40 mm. The minimum consumption of screws is approximately 20 - 25 pieces per 1m2 of sheathing.

Distance

Between the plasterboard sheathing and the floor or ceiling, gaps of 5 - 10 mm are left. This is necessary to compensate for the effects of possible shrinkage or temperature changes. For the same purpose, leave a distance of 1 - 2 mm between adjacent sheets of plasterboard lining.

Drywall partition

In the manufacture of an interior partition, the installation of a frame is mandatory. It is made from the same materials as the crate for wall cladding. The frame can be double - higher strength, easier to place insulation, wires, etc. Sheathing is done in 1-3 layers, the third is needed with increased requirements for insulation or fire safety.

markup

Installation of a drywall partition begins with drawing up a frame diagram, taking into account the location of the sheathing sheets. It is marked on it. Procedure:

1. Using a rule or paint cord, draw a line on the ceiling at the location of the upper guide profile of the crate.
2. Check the angles of conjugation of the line with all surfaces. They should be exactly 90 °, if the project for finishing the room does not involve the installation of a partition on an oblique path.
3. Using a plumb line, transfer the basting to the floor.
4. Connect the markings on the floor and ceiling with vertical lines on the walls.

How to assemble a frame

The basic rules for mounting the lathing of the gypsum board partition, the step between the profiles, etc. are the same as for the wall sheathing.

Racks of opposite walls of the double frame are installed on the same line. From above and below, between the guide profiles, short segments are attached to connect both parts of the crate into a single whole.

The same segments are installed along the entire height of the frame in places where horizontal jumpers are located.

Communications in the partition

For laying pipes or cables, the frame must be made double with a gap between the walls. Wires and pipes are passed into this slot up to the bulkhead sheathing in such a way that the risk of their damage on the sharp edges of the profile is excluded. Be sure to take a picture of the location of communications before attaching drywall. This will facilitate the repair or partial replacement of the cable or pipeline. Sheathing is done in two layers, the maximum height of the partition is 6.5 m.

Frame sheathing and heat and sound insulation

Sheet joints located on opposite sides of the partition should be offset relative to each other. The recommended distance is 60 or 40 cm, depending on the pitch between the frame posts.

The interior wall can be insulated, for example, with mineral wool slabs. They are placed between the racks of the frame by surprise without fasteners to the skin. Most heat-insulating materials also have sound-absorbing properties. The best result can be achieved using a special soundproof plasterboard.

Basic rules for installing a plasterboard wall

Installing a plasterboard wall with a frame:

1. First, guide profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels according to the markings.
2. The frame is also fastened to the walls with dowels. Be sure to use hangers. These are narrow short steel strips, sold in the same place as the profile. To fix the details of the crate, they are shaped like the letter P.
3. When installing rack profiles, be sure to immediately check the correctness of their position with a level.
4. If the wall is high, then to increase the rigidity of the structure, horizontal jumpers are placed in height increments of 80 cm.
5. The profiles are interconnected with self-tapping screws "bug".
6. To tightly adjoin the frame to the walls, floor, ceiling, improve insulation, self-adhesive sealing tape is glued to the profiles located along the perimeter of the crate.

Wallpaper, paint, tiles, decorative plasters are suitable for finishing GKL. The finished lining for paint is completely puttied, for wallpaper and tiles it is enough to fill the joints and cover the screws. To improve the adhesion of GKL with wallpaper, a primer is applied.

GKL cutting

Drywall is cut with a simple construction knife. The sheet is placed on a table or other flat surface above the floor. Markup is done on a ruler or with the help of a paint thread. The knife blade is extended to a distance not exceeding the thickness of the gypsum plasterboard, and is drawn several times along the intended line.

The sheet is broken by sliding it so that it hangs over the floor, then turned over and cut the cardboard on the back. If you need a piece in the shape of the letter G, then a short cut is made with a hacksaw, a long one with a knife. Curvilinear cuts are made with a jigsaw. Holes for sockets, etc., are made before attaching the sheet to the crate - rectangular with a knife, round with a drill with a drywall crown.

Even a person who does not have experience in construction work can independently level the wall with drywall or make an interior partition of a simple shape. This method is more economical and less labor intensive than plastering or masonry with bricks or blocks.

Useful video

Redevelopment is a favorite method of changing the geometry of rooms by interior designers. The main tool in this business is the installation of drywall partitions.

These are lightweight, inexpensive and prefabricated structures. In this article, we will tell you in detail how to properly mark the partition with your own hands, mount the frame from the profiles and sew it up with drywall.

Drywall compared to other building materials (brick, partition blocks) has more advantages. Sheets of the big sizes that allows to level the big area in a few minutes. They are cut and installed without dust and dirt. The material is resistant to fire, and acts as an additional soundproof barrier.

Main advantages:

• light and fairly durable material;
• low cost compared to other materials;
• ease of installation - even a person without experience can handle it with a minimum set of tools.

Can I make my own partition?

A drywall partition may well be made even by non-professionals. Of course, you can first consult with an experienced craftsman, read the information in order to avoid imperfections and defects. We recommend that you take the advice from our article as a basis.

In general, you need to provide yourself with a set of tools, the necessary amount of materials, and, well, put this article in the "bookmarks". By the way, you will most likely need an assistant, because. it is almost impossible to mount a large sheet of plasterboard alone.

What to buy, how to calculate?

First, you need to decide on the size of the required partition. Having determined the number of sheets on one side, do not forget that the same volume of sheets will be required to sew the second side of the partition. Among the materials you will also need:

• Guide profiles, size 50x40. You need enough profile to sheathe the entire perimeter of the partition with it.
• Rack profiles 50x50. They differ from guides by shelves at the top and bottom. The calculation is carried out individually, based on what type of installation will be used by the master.
• Dowels and self-tapping screws, 45 mm long - for fixing the guide profiles to the floor, walls and ceiling
• Self-tapping screws for metal 35mm - for fixing drywall to the frame;
• Self-tapping screws with a 10 mm press washer for attaching profiles to each other;
• Perforated paper and plaster putty.

In addition to the material, you need to ensure the availability of construction tools. If there is no such thing at home, in order not to spend money on buying it, you can rent equipment. In the installation, a puncher, drill, plumb line, level, screwdriver are useful.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard partition

The technological process of installing drywall partitions consists of four stages, except for puttying and finishing. Everything starts with a markup. Despite the seemingly simple stage, it needs to be given a lot of time. After marking, they proceed to the installation of guides and the installation of rack profiles. At the last stage, sheets are sewn onto the frame.

This is how the schematic work plan looks like. However, for accuracy, we will consider each of them in detail.

markup

We immediately note the importance of the stage. If you make a mistake in marking, this can lead to the fact that the partition will not be strong, not the correct shape.

The markings for the future partition begin to be done from the floor. To do this, on the surface, using a marker or pencil, make marks for the location of the front and rear walls of the structure. If the skin will consist of one layer, then an indent of 1.2 cm is made from the marked mark ( thickness of one sheet of drywall). According to the new marks, the guide profiles are laid out.

Next, we proceed to transfer the marks to the ceiling and side walls. The procedure is complicated (in the absence of a laser level), but everything is solved. This will require a plumb line. With it, we mark the marks on the ceiling and side walls so that the perimeter of the structure is in the same plane.

Frame installation

The fastening of the guide profiles starts from the floor. If soundproofing is required in the room, you can glue a special sealing tape to the floor and ceiling at the installation site of the guide profile (you can ask a consultant in the store).

The guides are fastened with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws ( if the floors are wooden).

When the perimeter of the future partition is marked with guide profiles, we proceed to cutting the rack profile to size. The main thing is to place the vertical profile in level, leading it into the already mounted guides. The height of the rack profile should be 10-15 mm less than the height of the ceiling, which will make it easy to expose the product.

The metal profile must be located in the place of the future doorway.

The distance between the profiles must be exactly 60 cm so that the joints of the drywall sheets ( their width is 120 cm) fell in the middle of the rack profile. You can strengthen the structure with horizontal jumpers.

Also, you can additionally fix wooden blocks in the places of doorways ( "mortgages"). This solution will avoid difficulties in the installation of the door block.

We fasten drywall

In order to conveniently fix drywall sheets to vertical profiles, their middle marks are made on the ceiling and floor. Installation begins with fixing solid sheets with self-tapping screws. Fastening to profiles must be done in increments of 20-30 cm. The type of self-tapping screw is gypsum metal.

It is desirable that there be as many whole sheets as possible, and fewer segments. In this case, the integrity and stability of the partition is increased. When all solid sheets are fixed, you can start cutting. To cut correctly, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure, a mounting knife and a ruler. After making an incision with a knife, the sheet breaks and is cut from the other side.

The first side of the structure is sewn up first. After sewing, insulation is laid between the profiles, as a rule, it is mineral wool. However, the task of wool in this case is not so much to insulate, but to increase soundproofing properties. When the insulation is laid, you can start sewing the second side.

Very often, the design of the room is accompanied by curves and curly lines, and the same features are transferred to the partition.

How to cut drywall

As a rule, drywall sheets are cut using a mounting knife. To do this, a deep incision is made along the entire length on one of its sides, then the sheet is taken for a break. Due to the fact that the outer layer of cardboard is cut, the inner filling of gypsum breaks easily. it remains only to cut the bottom layer of cardboard with a knife. The result is a fairly even cut, but if irregularities are present, they can be easily eliminated with a planer or the same knife.

In addition to the knife, you can use a number of other tools:

• hacksaw ( the most common, with fine teeth);
• electric jigsaw - with its use it is easy to cut curly parts, if any are present in the project;
• milling cutter and drill with a crown - suitable if you need to make a round hole.

Reinforcement of the bulkhead for the attachment of heavy equipment

Often, on assembled partitions, the owners plan to hang a TV, music system, shelf, etc. If there are such plans, then you need to take care of them even at the frame assembly stage, in other words, mark the places when marking and reinforce them with wooden beams. They are mounted along the entire length of the rack profile.

The choice of type of reinforcement depends on what load will be applied to the surface.

For example, tiles will become one of the sides as a finish. In such a situation, moisture-resistant drywall is attached to the profile, and the frame is reinforced with horizontal jumpers from the profile, since the tile is heavy, and even a layer of glue.

Putty joints

At the end of the fastening of drywall sheets to the frame, it is considered that the installation process is completed. Now begins a new stage of finishing work and finishing decoration with finishing materials. However, before that, it is necessary to putty the seams.

The puttying of the seams occurs using a sickle mesh ( in fact, the sickle mesh is an outdated material. It is more practical to use strips of perforated paper for putty), which is glued at the joints of the sheets. The paper tape is glued to the seams either with PVA glue, or simply by moistening it with water.

Let's start mixing putty. It is important to understand that you should not immediately knead a large bucket, as it must be worked out before the mixture begins to solidify. The hardened mixture is not subject to re-mixing of water, since its properties have already been lost. The putty is applied to the joints with a spatula, while the master must smooth and level it as much as possible so that there are no problems with the finishing putty of the sheets.

Not only the joints are sealed with a mixture, but also the caps of the self-tapping screws. The mesh is not glued onto the hats, and you do not need to worry that when the putty dries, rye spots form. The hardware used for fixing is resistant to moisture, and their surface is resistant to corrosion.

Further actions depend on the chosen decorative covering of the partition. If the wall is to be painted, then, of course, a second layer of finishing putty will be required over the entire surface. For wallpaper, panels, tiles and other types of finishes, you do not need to spend money on putty. Although some experts still recommend going through the putty a second time over the entire wall area.

After the mixture dries, the wall is sanded with fine sandpaper. Thus, it is possible to achieve maximum evenness and smoothness.