How to make a round wooden table yourself. Kitchen table: we make it ourselves from wood - quickly, simply, beautifully and reliably. Assembly of the support structure

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Not everyone likes to buy ready-made products for home use. The soul of some people requires creative and practical self-realization. The editors of the online magazine site invites those who wish to learn how to make a wooden table with their own hands, what is required for this, and whether there are pitfalls in such work.

A beautiful piece of wood for the kitchen or living room, made with love

Professional carpenters are unlikely to need our step by step recommendations, but for beginners, advice will come in handy. To begin with, consider what products you can make with your own hands from wood.

Of course, the more skills a person has, the harder model he can do. But in order to build a table with your own hands from wood, there are ready-made drawings and photos to help beginners.

How to choose material for self-production of a wooden table for home and garden

What to make a dining table with your own hands? The best is wood. The most malleable for the newly-minted master will be pine. Poplar products will look more solemn. For the street, you can take mahogany.

If you want an option for home and easier, then you should consider laminated chipboard with an optimal thickness of 25-35 mm. You can take it on the table wooden planks, birch plywood with a thickness of 35 mm. Legs can be made of metal or wooden beam(about 50 mm thick).

In order not to make a mistake with the amount of material, make a preliminary drawing future design with exact measurements.

Advice! Suitable product height varies between 750-800 mm.

Related article:

DIY furniture made of wood: for garden, children's room, kitchen, sauna, garden, arbor; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and recommendations from experts - read our publication.

What tools are needed to make a wooden table with your own hands

It doesn’t matter what shape the future table will be: a certain set of tools is required to work with wood. You can’t do without a jigsaw, and it will be much easier to work with electric model. To fix all structural elements, either a drill with a multi-stage drill for holes, or confirmations is used. To grind the product to perfection, you need either a special nozzle for a drill.

For greater fastening strength, carpentry glue is included in the tools.

How to make a wooden table with your own hands - step by step instructions

We have selected four types of structures that you can make on your own, even with a minimum of carpentry skills. We offer you to learn about the stages of manufacturing a round and rectangular table, a coffee table and a model for garden gazebo.

Making a wooden round table

It is easiest to make a round table top and a binder ring from either 1500 × 1500 mm and 1280 × 1280 mm. You will also need two strips of chipboard (1110 × 120 × 25 mm). We will make the legs from four wooden bars measuring 120 × 50 × 750 mm.

How to make a tabletop

How to draw a circle perfectly even? On a sheet of plywood in the center, place your own thumb with a string attached to it with a pencil. The length of the rope from the base to the top should match the radius of the future tabletop. Holding your finger in one place, draw a circle with a pencil around the full length of the rope. It remains to cut it with a jigsaw.

The circle-underframe is cut out in a similar way.

Leg manufacturing

A round table made of wood or chipboard will look charming if done consistently. You don’t have to mess with the legs if there is no excessive originality in the plans. The bars are divided into 4 parts according to the desired table height minus the thickness of the table top. First, one leg is cut off, and the other three are already aligned along it.

All processing grinder carried out immediately.

Advice! Sanding should not be rushed, as the first coating with varnish will give out all the shortcomings.

Assembly of the structure and processing of the finished product

Assembly is carried out in stages. First, the strips are aligned groove into groove. Then the crosspiece of the slats is connected with the legs with confirmations, as in the figure below:

If you want to make the structure stronger, before connecting the legs to the tabletop, their upper base is smeared with glue.

Advice! Nails are not used in such work: a self-tapping screw or confirmation can be unscrewed without problems, and the connections will be much stronger.

Making a rectangular wooden kitchen table

The rectangular design is classic and very useful in everyday life: it is convenient to cook on such a table and you can comfortably dine at it.

How to make a tabletop

The tabletop made of wood for the table is made either from a whole sheet of plywood, or from individual edged boards processed to perfect smoothness.

Having fastened the boards with screws and glue, they begin to manufacture the frame.

Production of wooden legs for the table and frame

At the heart of quadrangular models is a frame. It serves to securely fix the legs, ensuring the stability of the entire structure. The tabletop is turned over, measured 3-4 cm deep on each side and the measurements are transferred to the boards. As a result, you will need two boards of smaller length and two larger ones.

The frame is made of four elements: according to the approximate ratio, these are two boards of X cm and two of 2X cm. They are overlapped with each other in turn, building a rectangle. In order not to break the angle of 90 °, any board is used while working with a screwdriver: they press the structure with it while tightening the screws.

As soon as the frame box is ready, they begin to make legs. You can take ready-made balusters for the table, buy metal supports or cut them out of the bars according to the desired length according to the drawing.

Both the frame and the legs are subject to obligatory thorough polishing!

Product assembly and finishing

The frame is screwed to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. Then the product is turned over and the legs begin to be attached.

Important! It is better to make holes for the screws in advance. This eliminates the possibility of splitting the tree.

Why not use nails and a hammer? Not everyone has the skills to work with a hammer - here it is dangerous not only to hit your finger. From excessive zeal, it is easy to damage the wood by splitting it. Confirmates and self-tapping screws hold the tree much stronger.

As soon as the leg is fixed, the angle is immediately checked: there should not be any deviation from 90 °. The operation is repeated with other legs. You can attach the legs directly through the countertop, but this will affect the aesthetic component of the product.

Related article:

: a photo best ideas. What can be done from a pallet for an apartment, office and cottage; rules for the selection and processing of pallets; master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and shelving - read in our publication.

Making your own wooden coffee table

Not only a beautiful element of the interior, but also useful. No need to look for where to put a book, gadget, glasses, TV remote control in a conspicuous place. Such necessary structures are made from different materials: metal, glass, plastic, chipboard, wood. But let's leave other materials alone and concentrate on working with wood.

Choice wooden tabletop for the table depends on the expectation of the owner of the product. Someone wants something massive, while someone prefers lighter options. Let's go with a simple solution.

We buy five boards 30 × 150 mm and process them to perfect smoothness. We immediately saw off the desired length on the countertop: you should get 6 identical canvases. We take four bars on the legs, 6 canvases of shorter length on the lower tabletop, 4 narrow slats for the frame.

Illustration	Action Description
	For brushing wood, use a grinder with a brass brush head. The procedure will expose the structure of the tree, giving the product a special flavor.
	We pass back and forth on each board from the side that will be the front.
	We process wood with fire. The flame is gradually moved from place to place: the board will acquire a beautiful darkish tint. The procedure will finally destroy unnecessary soft fibers wood. We actively wipe the entire surface with a felt boot or a piece of felt.

We proceed to the process of assembling a small table with our own hands from wood.

The lower and upper tabletops are stacked on work surface wrong side towards you. The boards are laid tightly to each other, gluing them together. As soon as the boards grab, slats are attached to the top tabletop. They will serve as a frame and a fastening element. They can be glued or screwed with screws. The self-tapping screw is screwed in the center of the rail into each of the boards.
The legs are screwed to both the table top and the rails. You can use furniture corners.

Video: the process of making a wooden coffee table

Making your own wooden table with benches in the gazebo

It's time to take the time and build a garden wooden table.

It is best to take boards of standard sizes. AT hardware store studs are purchased (suitable with a length of 16 cm), washers (24 pieces). Long nails (8 cm) will fit for a garden gazebo.

To paint a product or just varnish it is already a matter of taste.

A circle - perfect figure. It is no coincidence that it is he who has the most analogues in nature: solar circle and the disk of the moon in the sky, vegetables and fruits round in section, annual rings on the top of a tree...

It is noted that harmonious the shape of the circle also contributes to the psychological comfort person. Yes, to create laid-back informal atmosphere at a business meeting round table.

round table fine fits in in any interior, be it small kitchen or spacious living room. The lack of corners makes the table elegant, but more costly. The budget solution is make him on his own. For all the seeming complexity, cutting and assembling a round table is not a problem for a home masters.

Round table options

It would seem that everything is clear here - round countertop on legs. However, manufacturers offer such diversity round tables that run your eyes!

The first thing you notice is the amount supports. Options several:

one big central leg or cabinet;
3 legs;
4 legs;
several legs in the middle.

However, the number of legs design differences round tables are not limited. The table can have shelves, cabinet, sliding boxes and various add-ons. Like other tables, there are round folding and sliding, as well as transformers.

Barbecue table, also known as a barbecue table or a fire table.

Round folding table,

Round (roulette + card table).

Finally, material from which the round table is made. Classic variant – tree array. The wooden table looks nice and solidly looks great in both classic and modern interior.

Also for the manufacture of round tables are used such materials, how:

chipboard, chipboard;
MDF;
plywood;
natural or fake diamond;
glass;
plastic;
metal.

Round table made of wood

For starters, you need to decide on dimensions table. It can be small, medium or large, depending on whether it is or, for example,

It also takes into account such an important factor as dimensions the room for which the future table is intended.

We will manufacture small and very simple wood table with three legs.

Materials and tools

To do wooden round table with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

beam, boards;
carpentry glue for wood;
metal corners(3 pieces for each table leg);
self-tapping screws;
waterproof impregnation for varnish.

Required tools:

pencil, ruler, meter, roulette;
saw, jigsaw;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
drill and drills;
clamps;
brushes;
Sander and sandpaper;
building compass.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. We coat the sidewalls with wood glue boards and put them together. We fasten the structure clamps. For additional strength of the table, you can fasten the boards slats from the wrong side.

Step 2 We draw a circle countertops. To do this, we use the construction compass. If it is not there, it is enough to fasten two bars with a self-tapping screw at the angle we need. Glue an awl to one bar with tape, to the other - pencil. Draw a line. After measuring with a ruler or meter, the resulting circle. If required, repeat the procedure or draw irregularities by hand.

Step 3 Electric jigsaw neatly we cut out the resulting circle. If the countertop is additionally reinforced with slats, then this procedure will take a little longer.

Step 4 grinder we process everything surfaces countertops. Grinding is very thoroughly, you can't skip anything. The edges of the table are rubbed with emery medium grain paper. on the table and ends there should not be a single chip.

Step 5 Table top edges round off up and down.

Step 6 The legs will be made of timber 40 x 40 mm. Cut to desired length - 70 cm sanding with machine and sandpaper. rounding all corners.

Step 7 On three sides, we fasten on each leg metal corner. It is important to fix all the corners in the same plane. To do this, put a leg on any even surface for attachment to the tabletop. We attach the corners and mark their location with a pencil. Then, in a position convenient for us, fasten corners to the leg with self-tapping screws. This should be done with each leg. This will make the mount more durable because all the corners will have the same position.

Step 8 We mark the location of all legs on the tabletop. For complete compliance, you can turn the table top and put it on the legs. Fasten the legs with screws countertop.

Step 9 From bars of the same or smaller size, as the legs, we make jumpers. We fasten them to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Step 10 We process all parts of the table water repellent by impregnation at least 2 times. Drying of each impregnation layer should be complete (8-10 hours). After that we cover the table varnish. clear lacquer it is enough to apply two layers, color - 3-4 layers to get more rich shade.

Note: the surface of the table can be left natural, only emphasizing the natural beauty of wood, or decorate different ways.

Round glass table

Great option for manufacturing - hardened shockproof glass with a thickness of at least 5 mm. This glass is used to make many things, including - showers cabins.

This glass will withstand colossal load and will not break. It can only break pinpoint hard hit in the rib.

At the same time, tempered glass will not fly apart into pieces and fall many rectangular pieces that not dangerous for a person.

However, for cutting and processing hardened glass need special equipment.
At home, you can use to make a table triplex, matte or toned, as well as ordinary glass. If a cutting glass is not your strong point, it would be better to entrust this work specialist. He is professional cut out countertop of the required diameter.

Attention: self cutting tempered glass may damage the material.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. Draw on a sheet of glass a circle. This can be done using compass, stuck in the middle sucker and sticking the needle into its center. Another option could be sample, cut from a sheet of whatman paper or other material. Apply it to glass circle marker.

Step 2 Flip the glass over facial side and clean it from dirt. We wipe soft cotton or microfiber cloth. The glass surface must be clean and dry.

Step 3 Lay a sheet of glass on a flat surface hard surface. In this case, we move the edge close to the edge of the surface. Begin cut from the farthest point of the marked circle. Cutting is done by one continuous movement. If used roller glass cutter, then first you need to dip it in oil(for example, machine). Then around the perimeter we carry out lines from the edge of the circle to the ends of the sheet. Should work Sun.

Step 4 Under the circle of stele soft tissue or a towel and gradually break off all "beams".

Step 5 Clean under running water edge the resulting circle. Water will soften machining glass. Large burrs are removed with file, the rest is polished sandpaper coarse, medium and fine grit. The file can be wetted with kerosene(turpentine).

Step 6 Required for grinding drill or Bulgarian special nozzle. On the nozzle is glued first sandpaper with coarse grain. Then you need to go around in a circle with medium-grit sandpaper and finish with fine-grit sandpaper. Necessarily round off edge edges (top and bottom).

Note: the edge is processed at low speeds to prevent overheating of the glass.

Step 7 We polish the countertop with a circle of felt and polishing paste. If the glass is frosted, then polishing is carried out without paste.

Step 8 As supports for our table we take chromed legs with nickels, which are glued to the tabletop with a special glue, fixed with a UV lamp. In this way, you can fix the legs from any material.

Another way fastening the tabletop to the legs: drill holes in the countertop for nickels using a special drilling crowns with abrasive coating (sold at any hardware store). In this case, it is necessary to mark the location of the legs. To drill did not move from the intended place, you need to stick around the glass with plasticine and pour water there or cut out a bar slightly smaller than the size of the crown and put it inside. When drilling constantly add on a glass of water or wet the crown.

Another option - make from chipboard a circle the same diameter as the countertop, and insert screws into it around the entire perimeter with suckers. Such a connection holds much better if it is not glued simple glue for glass, and glue for UV lamps.

Attention: wear protective gloves or mittens when cleaning and processing glass.

Product finishing

Decorate The finished product can be produced in a variety of ways. Each of them will make the most ordinary table unique, an author's thing and emphasize the individuality of its owner.

Finishing the table will help more harmoniously put it in the general interior rooms.

In addition, with the help right selected decor can be adjust blunders in the processing of a wooden surface, hide or somehow beat darkening glass tabletop.

Wood the table can be decorated in the following ways:

painting;
mosaic;
marquetry(veneer inlay, wooden mosaic);

craquelure(artificial aging of the surface).

Design techniques glass table:

photo printing;
stained glass painting;
sandblasting treatment;
fusing;
decoration with various fillers.

How to make a wooden round table with your own hands, see video:

If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot then you just need big table, behind which the company of your friends and relatives can be accommodated. And you can do it yourself, spending quite a bit of time on it. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands will not hurt.

This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a wooden table for a summer residence.

So that you have a choice, we offer you four project options at once country table- two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural unit, and, finally, a round table. You must think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of the table that suits your needs and matches the style of decoration of your backyard.

Folding picnic tables - mobility is paramount

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly, practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can neatly fit folded into the garage, and if necessary, move again to the street. Furniture mobility is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a master wakes up in a person, a carpenter, a carpenter, a gardener, in general, a master. Buying furniture for a suburban area is a simple matter, but not everyone can make a wooden table for a summer residence with their own hands. You should immediately be ready to make a garden table with your own hands for several days. But the tips below will help you make a solid table yourself.

Today we will design a fairly simple country table with our own hands in the Provencal style. Such tables not only look great, but also have a fairly reliable design. It is worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer residence, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

Bearing frame - section 38 X 90 mm.
Tabletop - section 38 X 140 mm.
Supporting bars - section 19 X 64 mm.

Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find it on the Internet, or to independently make drawings of a table for a summer residence with your own hands. An accurate schematic designation will allow you to select lumber that will be most suitable in cross section for the dimensions indicated on the diagram. It doesn’t matter if the dimensions don’t exactly match each other, because you can always make an adjustment with an electric planer.

Material preparation

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the issue responsibly, as the life of the furniture will depend on this:

purchase of blanks. Professionals advise to purchase lumber from coniferous trees, which was previously well dried. Its main advantages are:
- price;
- simplicity and ease of processing by hand;
- beautiful structure;
glue for furniture;
4 X 65 mm screws;
3 mm drill;
drill;
tape measure, pencil, sandpaper for grinding.

Further actions

We will need:

two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
four legs for a country table with your own hands, size 38 X 90 X 695 mm;
two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
two pieces of braces of 38 X 90 X 772 mm;
blanks for countertops - seven pieces, size 38 X 90 X 2337 mm;
six support bars - 19 x 64 x 432 mm.

Tip: get to work on flat surface. It is imperative to observe the angles of joining parts. The blanks, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10 °. The slices must be parallel. But the blanks of the bowstring, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the cross beams and fasten this entire structure with screws. Each connection has two screws.

Diagonally fasten the bowstring to the leg with inside, in the same way fastening the structure with two screws.

The lower beam must be connected to each other by both bowstrings. As mentioned above, with the help of screws.

Further in the upper longitudinal and cross beams holes are made first fastener, called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with the available screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for extra strength. Remove excess immediately.

We plant the braces on the screws.

Tip: workpieces intended for braces should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

Do-it-yourself blanks for the table top are fastened with screws to the transverse beams.

How to make a rectangular table for a summer residence

After developing a work plan and approving the drawings of a table for a summer residence, purchase all the materials needed for this project. Choose wood designed for use on outdoors- pine, cedar, mahogany or pressed wood. When buying, check each board: they must be perfectly even and without any visible defects. Do not save on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all the weather.

There are a few important points, which you must take into account if you want the result to be high professional level. Do not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of professional tools when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the design, you can additionally use waterproof glue to fasten the parts. Round open edges with a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Sizes are converted from inches and may not match metric measurements. Choose lumber that is as close as possible in size. Or just customize yourself.

Tools needed to implement the project:

hacksaw, jigsaw;
milling cutter;
drill and drills;
chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
safety goggles and gloves.

Time:

From one day to a week, depending on the chosen project. If you have power tools at your disposal, you can finish the job even faster - in just a few hours.

Tips:

A milling cutter will help smooth the edges of wooden bars and boards.
Before driving screws and self-tapping screws, drill into wooden elements design guide holes.
The heads of the screwed self-tapping screws should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this the inlet parts of the holes must be countersinked.
Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
Do not apply excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

DIY picnic table. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

A - Legs: bars 5×10 cm, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
B - Frame: bars 5 × 10 cm, 87 cm long (2 pcs.);
C - Table top: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
D - Table top base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is the manufacture of table legs. Saw off the bars of the required size. To speed up the process, you can use a circular saw. Smooth out the edges of the bars and saw-off lines with sandpaper.

Connect the bars so that you get an X-shaped structure, and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, remembering to pre-drill the pilot holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps left.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal bar using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars, as shown in the figure.

Lay the boards intended for the manufacture of countertops on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will allow you to form uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the table top and secure them by screwing in the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure that the legs and the tabletop are perpendicular using a spirit level.

Post on bottom side tabletops sawn pieces of 5x15 cm boards and fix them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will act as reinforcing supports for the structure, at an angle of 45º. Install the supports in their place and secure with 90mm self-tapping screws at an angle.

And finally, last but not least: check if the heads of the screws protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all the cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, coat them with several coats of exterior paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instruction with drawings

Materials:

A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pieces);
B - Crossbeams: bars 5 × 10 cm long 160 cm (2 pcs.);
C - Tabletop fastening: bars 5×10 cm, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
D - Inclined supports: bars 5 × 10 cm long 84 cm (2 pcs.);
E - Worktop: boards 5×10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

It is worth starting work with the manufacture of legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sidewalls of the table must be identical, only in this case you can hope for an excellent end result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making a wooden tabletop. We recommend that you put it together on the ground (floor), and then fasten it to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Tip: Remember to check the verticality of the side walls of the table with a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.

Rigidly fix the entire structure with inclined supports. Their ends must first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now it remains only to build benches. saw off the boards right size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several pilot holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To keep the seat boards evenly spaced, place studs or pieces of plywood between them before fixing them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small, but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wooden surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from water and sunlight.

Round table. We do it on our own in the country

Materials:

A - Base: bar 5x10 cm long 102.5 cm (1 pc.) and 47 cm long (2 pcs.), bars 2.5x10 cm 9 cm long (4 pcs.);
B - Racks: bars 10 × 10 cm, 60 cm long (4 pcs.);
C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm long 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To articulate its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the joined beams are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting from rainwater, place it on small stands made from 2.5x10 cm board scraps.

Now you need to attach four racks made of bars to the base square section. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical with a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from that suggested by us, depending on this case you should, first of all, focus on your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of countertops. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Fasten one end of a 60 cm rail at this point. Rotating the second end of the rail, mark the outlines of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.

After sawing the boards of the future tabletop, we recommend that you fasten them together with waterproof glue and additionally fix them with a few clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the picture (yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green - from 2.5x10 cm bars).

Tip: Use waterproof glue and galvanized self-tapping screws (30mm self-tapping screws for 2.5x10cm bars and 50mm screws for 5x10cm bars) to fasten the bars to the countertop.

After the glue has dried, you must attach the legs to the base of the tabletop with 90mm self-tapping screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and the tabletop.

To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of outdoor paint or wood stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base supports are also untouched by water, place the table on a concrete surface and insulate them hermetically.

Now you know how to make your own picnic table. One has only to make a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations of friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with the family at a large table.

A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from floor to upper surface covers. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the occupant's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Spike connections provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. For the manufacture of dining table joiners combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models vary from the simplest utility to multi-rack. Structural advantage multi-column supports in increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of fastening parts collapsible table shown on the next page.

Design options

Think about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat - simplest way change the appearance of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and X-shape was very popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today the most common is H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each sheet of the table top must be at least 60 cm - optimal location for one seated person.

Design options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with kings, then with sliding option work as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the folding tables one of the most interesting designs is a drawer system. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during high humidity combs can stick in the grooves. Basic option configured normally as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. good options such applications include side table (as base), side table (shown here) and other tables and tables special purpose. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nonetheless sliding mechanism fits here too.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses retractable holders - you lift the board and extend the support brackets from under it (approximately as drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was received in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long utility table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design options

If the base dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, then a table with folding boards can be of almost any size, proportions and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - Russian name table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the side-leg-prong. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has a lot structural elements, reflecting the state of carpentry art of the 16th century, when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a table in the style of Queen Anne as the "basic" table, the swivel leg was used in the tables different styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the additional leg (or legs) in the unfolded state. When the card table is folded and stands against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Retractable legs are also a great addition for long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

Wood is the most traditional material from which a table can be made. Moreover, both high-quality raw materials and various boards, cuttings, cuts, even stumps. A little imagination, work, and with your own hands turn flaws into virtues. After all, tables can be very different: for home, summer cottage, garden, magazine, large dining, very tiny - for the gazebo, others. Drawings, diagrams, photos, detailed descriptions make it easy to deal with.

Place for family lunch

It is not necessary to spend a lot of money to do something necessary, useful. If boards, slats remain from previous work different sizes, you can try to make a decent dining table or a small decorative table out of them with your own hands. They will find a place in the country, in a city apartment.

Materials and tools for making a dining table

9 boards or bars made of poplar wood 0.35x0.35x90 cm;
a piece of plywood 20 mm thick with parameters 140x260 cm;
2 poplar boards 1.8x3.5x250 cm;

4 beams of 70 cm (table legs);
3 beams of 90 cm (fractional parts of the frame);
4 beams of 45 cm each (transverse frame parts);

cuttings of 20 mm boards of different parameters and plywood of the same density;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
glue;
stain (optional), furniture varnish.

This list can be adjusted depending on what you have.

You should also prepare:

desktop circular saw;
miter saw;
electric drill;
device for countersunk screwing;
grinding machine wooden surfaces;
roulette, square;
pencil.

The drawings simply and clearly show how the parts are connected. Please review the image carefully.

In the country house or in the garden you can not do without special furniture. It should be simple, reliable, stable. Doing it yourself, a table of boards, do not forget to leave free place between the pieces that make up the tabletop. This will allow outdoor furniture to serve you longer - water during rain will not collect and stagnate on the surface, but will quickly drain.

Get ready for work

You should prepare materials and tools:

2 boards of 85x10x2.5 cm;
4 boards of 168x10x2.5 cm;
17 boards of 95x10x2.5 cm;
2 boards of 1530x10x2.5 cm;
4 boards of 75x10x2.5 cm;
screws, bolts, nails;
glue for wood;
level, tape measure;
screwdriver or drill;
saw;
protective gloves, goggles;
pencil;
stain, paint.

Consider the proposed drawings, the manufacturing sequence, the methods of fastening the elements of a wooden table.

The table will be assembled by hand after you screw the legs to it. This can be done with self-tapping screws.
Finishing done at the discretion of the master. Processing the finished product with stain, varnish, paint will make the wood more resistant to destructive external factors: sun, rain, wind, etc.

A small but very original table will not leave indifferent either the owners or their guests. During the day it will become a place for a cozy feast, and in the evening it will amaze with a bizarre glow. To make it, you will not need complex drawings, but only original idea and desire.