When it became necessary to add another bed in the country house, it was decided at the family council that it would be a double bed. The dimensions of 1.6 by 2.0 meters were determined for a reason, but because this is a very common mattress size (the same in a city apartment) and its purchase will not cause problems. And so it turned out later.
I will make a double bed according to my drawings and of course with my own hands. I will carry out the installation right at the installation site, having previously prepared all the details.
The article turned out to be voluminous detailed, so be patient.
If you are going to make such a double bed with your own hands, then below you will find details, drawings with dimensions, photographs, as well as a 3D model of this bed.
Since the project is quite difficult, before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials.
Tools
- Circular saw.
- Drill.
- Set of drills.
- Screwdriver.
- Electric jigsaw or wood saw.
- Sander.
- Construction corner.
- Clamps.
- Roulette.
- Pencil.
- Putty knife.
materials
- Bar 100*100*330 mm - 4 pcs. (bed legs).
- Board 195*45*1690 mm - 4 pcs. (front - back frame board and headboard).
- Board 95*45*1690 mm - 1 pc. (back of the bed).
- Board 195*45*2000 mm - 2 pcs. (side boards of the frame).
- Board 95*45*1400 mm - 2 pcs. (internal front and rear frame boards).
- Board 95*45*1800 mm - 2 pcs. (inner side boards of the frame).
- Board 95*45*1910 mm - 1 pc. (internal longitudinal frame board).
- Lamel for a bed (820*63*8 mm curved plywood) - 24 pcs.
- Latoderzhateli laid on for shooting (under the lamella 63 * 8 mm) - 48 pcs.
- Birch dowel 10x50 (30pcs)
- Steel corner 50 * 50 mm - 12 pcs.
- Self-tapping screws 5 * 80 mm - 150 pcs. (for assembling bed parts).
- Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 35 mm - 50 pcs. (for fastening steel corners).
- Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm - 100 pcs. (for attaching lat holders).
- Joiner's glue.
- Wood putty.
According to materials:
As a result, I bought 2 boards 195*45*6000 mm and 2 boards 95*45*6000 mm. All boards are dry and planed.
I cut it to size on the spot in the store (for a fee), so all the materials fit into the trunk of my car with the rear seats folded down.
As a result, I "killed" two birds with one stone: they sawed the boards exactly to size and saved on shipping.
I had a piece of timber 100 * 100 mm after the construction of the barn, and that is why I decided to use it to make the legs of the bed. You can use any other material as legs.
Look for lamellas (lats), as well as lat holders, in specialized stores or online stores; they are rare in ordinary building hypermarkets and, if available, then in a small assortment.
By size:
Using the basic dimensions for the desired mattress size (I have 2000 * 1600 * 180 mm), you can change the dimensions to those that are convenient for you. For example, the height of the legs of the bed or the height of the boards of the sidewalls.
The only thing that is not worth it is to reduce the thickness of the inner longitudinal board (45 mm), which divides the bed in half, because. this value is determined by the seat of the lato-holders on one side and the other.
Bed assembly: diagrams and dimensions
So, if all the tools are prepared, and the materials are cut to size, then you can start assembling the bed. And let's start, of course, with the base frame.
Frame manufacturing
We start the assembly with the main boards and legs of the bed, fastening them together with self-tapping screws.
Using clamps, we fix the legs to the side boards. We drill holes in the boards - the diameter of the drill should correspond to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Don't forget to countersink the holes for the screw head.
Side and center boards should be fastened 10 mm lower, because. they will be equipped with lato-holders with lamellae. The photo below shows why this should be done.
Before assembly, I smeared all the details with carpentry glue and for reliability (reliability is never superfluous), I reinforced all the corners in the joints of the bed frame with steel corners. You can see it in the photo below.
Under the middle board for reinforcement, I made and installed a leg-stand from a piece of timber. You can use any other design, for example, make boards from scraps or buy a finished cylindrical metal if you find the right size.
Sanding and sanding the frame
Now that the bed frame is basically ready, you can begin to improve the appearance, namely, puttying the mounting holes, as well as other visible wood defects. To do this, use a special wood putty.
Apply the first layer of putty, trying to fill the holes as much as possible, leave to dry, following the manufacturer's recommendations on the package.
Important! Do not try to putty all the problem areas the first time - it still won't work. Correct puttying should be done in 2-3 stages, with intermediate drying and abrasive treatment.
Treat the dried putty with a sandpaper with a coarse abrasive, for example P80. I used an orbital sander with velcro pads. It is possible to grind with a piece of skin on a flat bar, but this is more laborious.
After blowing off the remaining dust, apply a second layer of putty and repeat the drying-sanding stage.
At the end, we grind the entire surface of the frame to a pleasant smoothness. First with P80 abrasive and then with finer P120-180 abrasive. Of course there was a lot of dust...
While the putty dries, we do not waste time - you can start making the headboard, unless of course you need it. Below I will tell you how I did it.
Assembling the backboard
Since the double bed turned out to be quite heavy, I decided to make the backrest removable, in case the bed needs to be moved to another room.
For the headboard, you can take a ready-made furniture board, or you can do it yourself. I bought two six-meter boards and from the leftovers, I just got three trimmings for making the back (they are higher in the list of materials).
I decided to splice three boards into a shield using dowels and glue. In order for the holes for the dowels to match perfectly, I applied the following “trick” - marking the centers of the holes on the edge of the board, I punched carnations without a hat into them.
So that all the cloves stick out at the same height, I hammered them with pliers as in the photo below.
Having combined the second board from above along the edges, he tapped on top with a mallet and received reciprocal dents on it.
To drill holes for the dowels to a certain depth, I glued red tape on the drill - so that it could be seen.
Having prepared the holes (clean from sawdust and cut off burrs), I put dowels on the glue (pictured below). Having smeared the mating edge with carpentry glue, with the help of a mallet I drive the second board into place.
The same operation must be done with the third board of the headboard.
Due to the lack of wide clamps (I will definitely have to buy), I am smart and with the help of a car jack (I used it for laying floors) I squeeze a shield of three boards in the doorway and wait a couple of hours until the glue dries.
After gluing, I send the shield for trimming and grinding. The most suitable place for this dusty work is the yard.
Having cut off the upper corners, I grind with an orbital, P80 abrasive. By grinding, I remove small steps at the junction of the boards and sharp corners.
The result is a pretty decent shield for the headboard.
It remains to put the back in place and fix it. To do this, I do the same operation with dowels, only without glue. 
Installation of slats
Since the length of the lamellas exceeds the required one, they should be cut to the desired size.
Having put lato-holders on the ends of the lamellas, we fix them to the support boards with self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm. The distance between the lamellas in my case is 92 mm.
3D model of a double bed
Click on the picture, wait for it to load and use the left mouse button to rotate the model. Rotate the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Watch in full screen - icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.
To fully view 3D models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer program from the official website (for free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the viewing window.
The average person spends almost a third of his life in a dream, and his activity in the waking state, and hence success in business and personal life, depends on a good rest at this time. The quality of a night's rest largely depends on the comfort of the body position during sleep, which a comfortable bed should provide.
Nowadays, in the assortment of furniture stores, you can pick up almost any, even a very unexpected version of this necessary piece of furniture, but for various reasons it is far from always possible to purchase a model that suits all parameters. Therefore, the question often arises of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and at the same time save a decent amount.
Variety of bed models
Before choosing a bed model for manufacturing, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them in order to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, furniture designers and designers have developed a huge number of options, and many of them may well be implemented at home.
The main difficulty of the self-manufacturing process mainly lies in the preparation and processing of structural parts, since for these operations it is often simply necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, in order to decide on the creation of this piece of furniture, it is worth first of all to consider some models of various levels of complexity, made from different materials.
Bed with drawers
The bed, equipped with drawers, can be single, one and a half or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there are usually a large number of toys and items for various educational activities. This design is convenient in that it is possible, without cluttering up the room with unnecessary furniture, to create a place to store various things. Moreover, by pulling out such drawers, you can immediately see all the contents, and not delve into the jungle of a massive deep cabinet, where it is sometimes difficult to find the right thing.
A bed with drawers is a great solution for a child's room By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated than the usual one, where free space is left under the bed. The main thing is to draw up high-quality drawings, put down the correct dimensions in them, process all the parts intended for assembly well, assemble them carefully and find fittings that are easy to use. In this case, the sliding elements should be easy to move, slide out and slide in freely, and for this you can pick up special side guide mechanisms or fix small wheels on the bottom of the box.
hanging bed
This original version of the bed is not so difficult to manufacture, as it might seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be met for the effective functioning of this design is the sufficiency of free space, since the bed is designed for rocking in a certain amplitude range.
The bed itself consists of a frame - a frame and lamellas, but you need to take into account the fact that all parts must be made of high-quality material and securely fastened together. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high a load on the supports. The same quality should have a mattress, which sometimes has an excessively large unnecessary weight.
metal bed
A bed made of a metal corner, a rod, a strip and fittings is available for execution only by an experienced welder, but this option will last a long time without repair, and will not bother you with a creak. A metal bed is especially well suited to a certain style of interior, for example, retro, empire and even modern.
Such a "work of art" is available only to an experienced master Stable and heavy in weight, the design nevertheless looks light, almost weightless, so it will perfectly fit into any environment and become an element decorating it. Metal causes negative associations for many due to rust, which can leave ugly stains on the mattress and bedding. You should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technology, varnishes and paints have been developed that will protect not only bed accessories from rusty stains, but also the metal itself from this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not sag, since the frame has sufficient rigidity and solidity.
Bed-wardrobe transformer
A bed that turns into a closet is indispensable in the cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this option, the bed should be easy to clean and imitate a closet or cabinet.
They can be different in size, imitate a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow chest of drawers with a tabletop on top. The latter option can be used both for a children's room and as an additional, reserve bed - in case guests arrive. In addition, this design is sometimes installed in a loggia or on an insulated balcony, because in the summer it is so nice to relax in the fresh air.
Bed-cabinet - always ready to reserve a bed The most difficult thing in the manufacture of such a model is to choose the right lifting mechanism, and, of course, it is good to process all the details of the structure so that it can be easily installed and removed, without distortions and jamming.
Bed-podium
Another bed option that will help save space in the small spaces of modern apartments is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the bed will not take up a single extra centimeter in the room, since the bed is removed for the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a usable area, for example, by equipping it for a workplace.
It is also not so difficult to make a similar model, but a lot of high-quality materials will be required for the bed and the podium, and the work itself will take a lot of time. However, the result will exceed all expectations, as the output will not only be a comfortable sleeping place, but also an original interior design.
In addition to the mentioned beds, popular, often chosen models include such as a design with a lifting mechanism, an orthopedic frame, bunk beds, a frame made of wooden slats, a sofa bed and others. Some of them will be discussed further in more detail, with illustrated instructions for their manufacture.
Find out by examining the two available options in a dedicated article on our portal.
We make a bed with our own hands
Double wooden bed
Wooden double bed "classic" type This ordinary bed of standard sizes is made of natural wood, which can be processed by yourself, bought ready-made or taken to a carpentry workshop for precise sawing and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed, you will need the following materials:
- Pine timber for the box and legs with a section of 50 × 50 mm, 2200 mm long - 15 pieces.
- Pine planed board 2000 mm long, 100 mm wide, 20 mm thick - 22 pcs.
- Carpentry glue or PVA for furniture.
- Self-tapping screws 65 and 40 mm.
- Metal corners with a shelf width of 50 mm.
The frame to be made is designed for a mattress measuring 2000×1600 mm, so the inner space should have dimensions of 2100×1700 mm, and when measured along the outer edge - 2200×1800 mm.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | Since the box for the bed frame must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a wall width of 50 mm, the timber must be glued (3 or 4 pcs.) To do this, the sides are smeared with wood glue, the bars are superimposed on each other, compressed in clamps and left to dry completely. |
 | Further, the resulting glued blanks must be adjusted in size. So, to assemble the box, you will need two side panels (side panels) 2200 mm long, one 2100 mm for the middle longitudinal jumper, and two end side panels 1610 mm long. |
 | In order to get a reliable locking connection at the corners, 50 mm are measured at the edges of the sides, on the upper and lower bar of the blanks - these fragments must be carefully sawed off and removed without affecting the middle bar of the panel. On blanks for the end sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle bar, and then carefully removed. Then, the protruding middle parts of the bars of the sides are smeared with glue and installed in the resulting gap between the two bars of the end panels of the box. After that, they need to be compressed in clamps and left to dry completely. |
 | You can do it differently by using the connection of the bandaging of the timber. In this case, the bars are glued into the box already cut. To do this, the first row of timber is laid out on a flat floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its sides should be 2100 mm, end - 1500 mm. The end parts of the timber of the side panels are smeared with glue, and the bars of the end sides of the box are pressed against them, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The corners of the rectangle are set using a building square, and checked by measuring the diagonals - they must have the same length. Further, the middle row is glued to the bottom row, in which the length of the side bars is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm. Its ends are smeared with glue, and it is laid between two bars of the sides, and then fixed. Then, the middle row, in addition to gluing, is fixed to the bottom row with self-tapping screws. In the last, top row, the beam has the same dimensions and is laid in the same way as the first, lowest row. The timber is glued, screwed with “under-sweat” screws and left to dry. This assembly method is more complicated, since if the master does not have the appropriate experience, the corners can go awry. |
 | The next step is to fix the middle structural element - a jumper glued together from two bars 2000 mm long. Before fixing the jumper, the bed frame is turned over, the end sides are marked from the inside in order to accurately find their middle. The jumper at the bottom should match the level of the box. Then, on the bottom row of the box beam, in the designated places, stop bars 150 mm long are screwed. They will serve as a support for the central longitudinal partition. For docking with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower beam of the jumper. Fastening is made on glue and self-tapping screws. A metal corner with a 50 mm shelf can also be used as a support - appropriate holes are drilled in it for fastening to the walls of the box and to the crossbar. The finished jumper will become an additional basis for the boards laid on top of the bed frame. |
 | The bed model under consideration has 4 legs in the corners - it is also convenient to immediately fasten them with self-tapping screws or bolts now, while the bed frame is upside down. The legs will serve as segments of the same bar 50 × 50 mm. The legs are fixed to the structure first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws or through bolts, and it is additionally recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners. The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be chosen arbitrarily, but usually it is from 200 to 300 mm. The shorter the legs, the more stable the bed will be, but on the other hand, the low height complicates cleaning. |
 | In addition, so that the center does not sag, it is necessary to fix an additional one or two supports of the same height to the middle lintel - then the structure will have higher rigidity and reliability. The middle support legs can be fixed in different ways. This illustration shows an option when the legs are fixed with bolts on both sides of the jumper. |
 | After the glue has dried in the joints of the supports, the bed frame is again turned over to its normal position and installed on the already mounted "regular" legs. |
 | Further, on the side long panels of the box, lines are marked along which a beam or board with a width of about 30 ÷ 40 mm and a thickness of 25 ÷ 30 mm will be attached. This will be a support for the subsequent installation of overlapping boards. The support shelves must be placed so that they are flush with the center lintel. Usually they are guided by the gluing line of the upper beam of the sides of the box - if everything was done correctly, then the overall level will be ensured. |
 | The next step is to lay boards on top of the prepared support shelves. They should not rest against the sides of the box, otherwise unpleasant squeaks may appear during the operation of the bed. Therefore, a gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm on each side must be maintained between the walls and boards. |
 | The flooring does not need to be made solid at all - the boards are laid out at a distance of 20 ÷ 40 mm from each other. |
 | The boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the supporting shelves, and in the center - to the longitudinal jumper. At each attachment point, two self-tapping screws 40 mm long are screwed in. To avoid the appearance of cracks on the edges of the boards or on the shelves on which they abut, it is recommended to pre-drill holes for self-tapping screws with a small diameter drill - 3 mm. |
 | After the installation of the boards is completed, it is necessary to revise all surfaces of the structure. If necessary, glue streaks, large burrs, etc., are removed. |
 | Move on to finishing the assembled bed. First you need to bring all surfaces to a perfectly smooth state. For such wood processing, it is better, of course, to use a belt, eccentric or vibration type grinder, on which sandpaper with the desired grit is successively installed, ranging from 80-100 to 280-400. |
 | In the absence of a special tool, you can use an electric drill by installing a grinding nozzle on it. If woodworking was carried out with the help of power tools, then after them you need to carefully examine the product, since it is possible that in some places you will have to finish the work manually. After grinding is completed, the finished bed must be well cleaned of dust and small sawdust, that is, prepared for coating. |
 | If the product will immediately be varnished, then the parts must first be treated with a primer. If the wood is darkened with stain, then it is used first. The coating process is carried out with a brush or sprayer. |
 | Further, if it is planned to emphasize the textured pattern of wood, then after the stain has dried, the surface is once again passed over with sandpaper. |
 | It is desirable to carry out the coating not only from the outside of the bed, but also from the back, invisible to the eye. The fact is that the wood stain to a certain extent is an antiseptic and is able to protect wood from "traditional" pests - microflora or insects. |
 | The next step is varnishing the product. For this, it is best to use water-based compounds, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment. Such varnishes do not have a toxic odor, are environmentally friendly and dry quickly enough, and after drying they give a pleasant matte sheen. To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will have to apply several thin layers of varnish. Moreover, subsequent layers are applied only after the previous one has completely dried. |
 | When finished, a stained and varnished bed should look something like this. |
 | In between varnishing the bed, while the next layers dry out, you can make a full-fledged or impromptu headboard. In this case, the day panel of the back is made of boards and mounted in the form of a decorative lattice. It will require three boards 100 ÷ 120 mm wide, 1600 mm long, and 11 ÷ 12 pieces 400 ÷ 460 mm high. The lattice is also processed with sandpaper and covered with the same compounds as the bed itself. |
 | In this model, the headboard is not fixed to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress. The last step is the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for use. |
Double bed with installed lifting mechanism
Another option for a double bed is a model made using chipboard. In this design, unlike the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. The advantage of this bed can also be called the ability to usefully use the closed space under the bed, as the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily raise the wooden frame without removing the mattress.
The disadvantages of this model include its massiveness, which makes it impossible to install it in a small room. In addition, chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, since it is made using binders, which can often release toxic fumes into the environment, which is completely unhealthy for humans.
It should be taken into account that when choosing furniture made of chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for effective ventilation of the room in which it will be located. And for the manufacture of bed parts, chipboard panels with a formaldehyde emission class of E1 should be purchased.
So, in order to make a bed with a standard mattress size of 1800 × 2000 × 200 mm, you need to prepare the following materials:
- Chipboard sheet with a thickness of 16 mm and a size of 3500 × 1750 mm.
- Two sheets of fiberboard 5 mm thick, standard size 2745 × 1220 mm.
- Beam with a section of 50 × 50 mm, 18 m.
- Board 10 ÷ 15 mm thick, 60 mm wide - 20 m or plywood 10 mm, size 1525 × 1525 mm.
- Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
- Self-tapping screws, bolts.
- Metal corners.
- Upholstery fabric, 1500 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
- Sintepon 1600 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
- Foam rubber 2 sheets, 10 mm thick and 3000 × 1000 mm in size.
- Brackets for stapler 8÷10 mm.
Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.
BUT. From chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm are made:
- headboard - 1 piece, size 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have right angles;
- side panel of the box - 2 pcs., 2330 × 350 mm;
- end panel of the box - 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;
– internal partition – 1 piece, 2010×280 mm.
B. Details from a bar 50 × 50 mm, fixed in a box:
- longitudinal elements fixed on the side panels - 2 pieces, 2010 mm long;
— transverse part fixed on the end panel – 1 piece, length 1810 mm.
- racks with a height of 100 mm - 4 pcs.
AT. Details from a bar 50 × 50 mm for the manufacture of a lifting frame:
- longitudinal elements of the inner crate - 5 pieces, 2005 mm long;
- transverse parts of the inner crate - 2 pcs., 1805 mm long.
G. Plank or sawn plywood (10 mm) lamellas 60 × 15 × 1805 mm in size - 11 pcs.
D. Sheathing of the bottom of the box - 2 sheets of fiberboard 1650 × 2330 mm each.
Having made all the elements necessary for assembling the structure, you can proceed to sheathing and assembling parts.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | If the headboard will have a rounded shape, then the template for it is first made on paper, and then transferred to chipboard and cut out with an electric jigsaw. It is very important to consider that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - so the design will be more rigid. Usually, at the junction of the floor and the wall, there is a plinth having a certain width. Therefore, in the upper part, in the center of the headboard, a special supporting element is fixed from a bar or a piece of chipboard, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth. With its help, it will provide an emphasis on the back against the wall. You can do it differently by removing a section of the plinth from the place where the bed will be installed. |
 | Further, the fitting of the details of the box and headboard is performed at the installation site. Then, the exposed panels of the chipboard box are fastened together at the corners using pieces of timber or metal corners. The headboard panel is not attached yet, as it must first be sheathed with fabric. Details from a bar are tried on the fixed panels. |
 | Lamellas are tried on across the timber laid on the chipboard, and their location is marked. |
 | The next step is the head of the bed is sheathed with foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and staples. The foam is leveled and first fixed on the front side of the panel. |
 | Then, its edges are wrapped and shot with staples from its back side. |
 | From above, the foam rubber is covered with the fabric chosen for this. It is recommended to purchase a dense material that can repel dust. |
 | The sheathing work is carried out starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is carefully stretched and fixed in the same way as the foam rubber on the back of the headboard. |
 | Now the upholstered back can be installed in its permanent place. |
 | Next, the frame of the lifting frame is made. Its parts are assembled and fixed with metal corners. All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, starting from the middle of the structure. The middle beam should rest on a chipboard partition fixed in the bed frame. Having assembled the frame, it is temporarily set aside. |
 | Further, both inside and outside, the walls of the box are sheathed. First, a synthetic winterizer is also fixed on them with the help of a stapler, and then the same fabric as the head of the bed was previously sheathed. |
 | The next step is to mark and fix the elements of the lifting mechanism on the frame. |
 | Further? the frame is fitted onto the box and the place of installation of the beam on the side panels of the box is marked, on which the second side of the elements of the lifting mechanism will be fixed. |
 | Then, the beam is fixed, and the fixed part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the structure is tested. The beam is fixed on the chipboard using self-tapping screws 50 mm long. Their hats must be sunk into the wood by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm. |
 | After that, lamellas are fixed to the frame, across the bars, with the help of self-tapping screws. |
 | When folded, the lifting mechanism looks like this. It is located in the resulting niche between two bars. |
 | In the illustration presented, you can see a semicircular cutout made in the central partition. This space is necessary for the free lifting of the frame lattice. |
 | Further, the design must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work. |
 | The next step is to prepare fiberboard sheets, which will sheathe the bottom of the bed box. This will create a full cabinet, suitable for storing various things. |
 | Sheathing can be done with staples or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide caps. |
 | After mounting the bottom part, the bed is lowered and installed in place. |
 | In this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks fixed on the side inner beam. Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side beam, but also at the corners of the box. They are mounted at the same height, and are necessary for rigid support of the movable frame when it is in the folded state. |
 | For the convenience of raising the frame together with the mattress laid on it, loops sewn from fabric or peculiar handles are fixed in its front part. They are screwed with two or four self-tapping screws with wide caps to the end beam of the frame. |
 | A bed with an open mattress looks like this. |
Single bed
This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or teenager, as it has quite suitable dimensions. As for any piece of furniture installed in the bedroom or children's room, for this product you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material.
single bed
Dimensions in these drawings are in inches, 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will be easy to translate the presented sizes into units familiar to domestic masters.
This table shows the manufacturing process of this simple bed model:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | For the manufacture of this bed model, the following materials and parts will be required, which are listed in accordance with the diagram shown in the illustration: - A - legs. For the manufacture of these parts, a bar with a section of 2 × 2 ″ (50.8 × 50.8 mm) is required. The height of the beam for the headboard - 33½ ″ (851 mm) - 2 pcs., for the footboard - 17¼ ″ (438 mm) - 2 pcs.; - B - the back and front walls of the bed frame, as well as the wall located at the foot, are made of a board with a section of 1 × 9¼ ″ (24.5 × 245 mm), the length of the side elements is 75½ ″ (1918 mm) - 2 pcs., footboards - 39″ (991 mm) -1 pc. - C - longitudinal beams for flooring, made of boards with a section of 2 × 1 ″ (50.8 × 25.4 mm) and a length of 75¾ ″ (1910 mm) - 2 pcs.; - D - overlapping boards 1 × 4 ″ (25.4 × 102 mm) and length - 39 ″ (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.; - E - bottom piece of headboard 1x6″ (25.4x152mm) - 1 pc. and the upper part with a section of 1 × 9¼ ″ (25.4 × 235 mm) - 1 pc., The length of both parts is 39 ″ (990.6 mm). In the future, a curly back will be cut out of the board prepared for the top element. |
 | The first step is to make structural details and assemble them into separate sections from which the bed will be assembled. The most complex detail in terms of shape is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curvilinear shape, but also must have a perfectly finished top and bottom edge. The indicated dimensions are applied to the prepared board, with the help of an impromptu compass the rounded upper part of the back is determined. You can make a so-called pattern (pattern) on paper, and then transfer the form to the board. Then, sawing is performed using an electric jigsaw, processing the edges with a milling cutter and grinding with a grinder or manually. It is very important that the surfaces are brought to a perfectly smooth state, as they will not be sheathed with fabric or other material. In addition to this detail, the bottom panel for the headboard is cut out. It is much easier to deal with it, since the most difficult task will be to cut off the edges evenly, and then process them well. |
 | Then, legs 851 mm high are cut out of a beam with a section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm. They also need to be well processed and cleaned. After that, on the sides of the bars that will be turned inward, markings are made to connect them to the crossbars. |
 | To assemble the headboard neatly and have strong connections, you can proceed according to the presented scheme. To do this, 2 ÷ 3 holes are drilled in the bars and end sides of the boards for each of the elements. Next, dowels 80 mm long and 8 mm in diameter are prepared. Then the dowels and the joined end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue. Further, the dowels are carefully driven through the beam into the transverse parts of the headboard. If the process is carried out in this way, then the joints on the outside of the legs are closed with a wooden lath, which is fixed to the glue, and for the period of its drying, the leg is squeezed in clamps. |
 | Provided that the closing decorative rails are glued, landing grooves for the side panels of the bed (side rail) are left on the outside of the legs. In this case, they are attached to the side of the legs, which is the most durable connection. If it is not planned to fix additional pads covering the dowel connections on the leg, then the holes in the bars are not drilled through, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25 ÷ 30 mm. Then, also with the help of glue and dowels, the headboard parts are interconnected. This assembly method is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a careful approach and precise work, it is quite doable. |
 | Next, the legs and the panel for the footboard are made. The height of the beam for them should be 438 mm, and the size of the panel should be 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm long. The connection of the footboard parts is carried out in the same way as in the headboard section, that is, with the help of dowels and glue. |
 | The next step is to connect the side panels (tsargs) to the head and foot sections. They can be fixed in different ways. The most common option is metal corners. They are screwed to the tsargs and legs with self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to metal corners, there are special parts for connecting these parts, called bed ties or hooks. With their help, the side panels are hung on the headboard and footboard legs. If hooks are used for connection, then the design will be collapsible. |
 | The next step to the tsargs is to fix the supporting shelves or elements made of timber or docks. They are fixed along the lower edge of the sidewall. |
 | Glue is applied to the beam, then the part is leveled on the side and pressed against it with clamps. When the glue is completely dry, the parts are screwed with self-tapping screws. |
 | The next step is to lay out and level the prepared boards on the bars fixed to the tsargs. |
 | When fixing the lamella boards to the bars, the entire structure acquires the necessary rigidity. Each of the boards is screwed with two self-tapping screws on both sides. Holes for self-tapping screws are marked by drilling (3 mm). |
The bed options presented above can be considered the most affordable for self-production. In order for the work to be effective, it is necessary to prepare well for it by equipping the home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality material. Having fulfilled these conditions and performing all technological operations carefully and slowly, it is quite possible to get a high-quality piece of furniture that will last for many years.
Video: DIY bed making master class
When bed rest, we advise you to make the bed higher. It will be more convenient for you and easier for the one who cares for you: your back will not be so tired.
Here are three options for how to increase the height of the bed.
If you are undergoing a course of physical therapy, you should check whether the bed can withstand the additional load.
How to increase the height of a metal bed
Since it is difficult to drill and attach metal or wood to a metal bed, it is easier to put the bed legs in small wooden boxes. This stand method can be used for any bed, especially if you need to give the bed its original height.
Material
A. Base - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 90 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Smaller sides - plywood 9 mm x 72 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
C. Large sides - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
D. Churban - strong wood, area corresponding to the stand, x required height.
E. Forged wood screws No. 8 x 25 mm.
Fastening with glue and screws.
Operating procedure
1. Drill holes for base A and sides C.
2. Drill auxiliary holes in sides B with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the screw.
3. Attach sides B to sides C.
4. Attach assembled sides B and C to base A.
5. Sand and paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.
6. Cut the logs to the correct size.
This way to increase the height of the bed is simple and effective, but take the time to choose the material. The wood must be well dried so as not to crack under the weight of the bed itself and lying on it. Glued plywood is suitable for this purpose.
Material
A. Extensions - well-dried wood, diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the bed leg, length - the height to which the bed needs to be raised + 150 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Nuts and bolts - approximately 5 mm, 8 pcs. C. Washers - as large as possible so that the wood does not split when tightening the nuts.
Operating procedure
1. Drill holes in the bed legs and extensions A for the bolts.
2. Bolt the extensions to the legs of the bed.
3. Paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.
Metal stands for wooden beds
An angle steel or angle aluminum stand is very durable. It can be installed quickly.
Gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) develops when the stomach sphincter spontaneously opens and acidic contents are expelled back into the esophagus, damaging the lining of the esophagus. One of the most effective preventive methods for GERD is to change the tilt of the bed. The position of the body is adjusted using a lifting mechanism, therapeutic cushions or both methods at the same time. Using the tips below, you can greatly relieve the pain caused by reflux disease.
Steps
Part 1
Changing the tilt of the bed- Leaving the shoulder blades at the same height, you may find that the reflux has not disappeared anywhere, and the general condition has even worsened, as tension and pain in the neck and back have been added.
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Never use multiple pillows to raise the headboard. In this case, the angle of elevation of the head can cause compression of the stomach, due to which reflux will increase and the general condition will worsen.
- Try to avoid using regular pillows while you sleep, as they can put extra pressure on your stomach area by pushing out the contents of your stomach. You can also easily slip off such a pillow, and the therapeutic effect will be lost.
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Understand why these methods work. In an upright position, acid reflux occurs less frequently as gravity pulls the acidic contents downward. As soon as you change the position of the body, gravity ceases to contain its contents in the stomach, and you are surprised to find it back in your mouth.
- Raising the head of the bed significantly reduces the likelihood of contact of the esophageal mucosa with the acidic contents of the stomach. In some cases, getting up also relieves sleep disorders.
Part 2
Preventing Acid Reflux-
Don't eat before bed. A late meal will negate all your efforts! Go to bed with an empty and dry stomach. The last meal is at least 3 hours before bedtime, and it is better not to drink anything 2 hours before you go to bed. Violation of this rule increases the likelihood of acid reflux.
- Never lie down after eating. Wait at least 3 hours before taking a horizontal position. This is enough to digest food so that the stomach becomes empty.
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Avoid fatty foods. Fatty foods (fried foods, fast food, etc.) take longer to digest, so the stomach is fuller. And the longer the food is in the stomach, the greater the chance of reverse reflux.
- Chocolates are high in fat and caffeine, which also negatively affects GERD. Also, chocolates can contain coconut oil, which stimulates the production of acid in the stomach, and the likelihood of acid reflux increases even more.
- Stomach acid production is stimulated by foods such as fried foods, tomato paste, alcohol, garlic, and onions.
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Chew gum. Chewing gum increases saliva production, which is a natural remedy for acid reflux. Knowing that you will have to eat something inappropriate, bring a package of chewing gum with you to reduce the chance of possible complications.
- Choose your gum carefully. Peppermint flavoring can cause acid reflux because the mint immediately relaxes the muscle valves and simultaneously increases the production of acid in the stomach.
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Wear loose clothing. Clothing that is too tight puts pressure on the stomach, and the additional pressure on the acid looks for any exits from the stomach, therefore increasing the likelihood of acid reflux into the esophagus.
- If you are going to have a big feast or acid reflux foods, try not to wear tight clothing (including underwear) to help ease your condition.
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Refrain from coffee and orange juice. Drinking coffee makes a person energetic due to the caffeine it contains. But caffeine also stimulates the production of stomach acid, and increased acidity increases the likelihood of stomach contents passing backwards. Likewise, one should refrain from anything that increases acidity (such as orange juice).
- Juice from oranges and other citrus fruits contains a lot of vitamin C (or ascorbic acid). Ascorbic acid increases the acidity of the stomach, increasing the chance of acid reflux.
- To reduce acid production, carbonated drinks and caffeinated teas should also be avoided.
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Start playing sports. Physical activity reduces pressure inside the abdomen and has a beneficial effect on a person with GERD. The main thing is that the duration of the workout should be at least 30 minutes a day. You can divide this half hour into several smaller sets. For example, a 10-minute walk three times a day equals one 30-minute walk.
- A daily 30-minute walk also promotes weight loss. If you are bored just walking, try gardening, swimming, walking the dog, or window shopping, i.e. window shopping without shopping.
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Control your weight. Being overweight and obese increases the chance of GERD. The stomach is under pressure from stored fat, and the chances are increased that its contents will escape into the esophagus. In some cases, losing weight is enough to get rid of GERD.
- Avoid overeating. This will allow you to simultaneously control weight and reduce the likelihood of acid reflux. It is better to divide the same amount of food into small portions, increasing the number of meals, and the stomach will not be overloaded.
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Quit smoking. Smoking is one of the risk factors for developing GERD. Long-term smoking experience also increases damage to the esophagus and can cause cancer. When you quit smoking, you will feel instant relief.
- Quitting smoking isn't just about getting rid of GERD. By quitting smoking, you will significantly reduce your chances of developing diabetes, heart disease, cancer, and other diseases, and notice that your skin, hair, nails, and teeth look much better.
Part 3
Medical therapy-
Consider taking antacids to neutralize the acid. Magnesium aluminum hydroxide (liquid) and other antacids neutralize hydrochloric acid in the stomach and esophagus. Relief, accompanied by a feeling of mild cooling, is already observed when the fluid passes through the esophagus.
Taking Proton Pump Inhibitors (PPIs) is one of the best ways to prevent acid reflux. Inhibitors block the activity of the pump that produces hydrogen, which is necessary for the formation of acid. Accordingly, reducing the amount of acid reduces the likelihood of acidic contents entering the esophagus. For maximum effect, PPIs are taken 30 minutes before breakfast.
- Daily dose of different PPIs:
Omeprazole - 20 mg once a day
Lansoprazole - 30 mg once a day
Pantoprazole - 40 mg once a day
Esomeprazole 40 mg once a day
Rabeprazole - 20 mg once a day. - PPIs inhibitors can cause side effects such as headache, abdominal pain, and vomiting.
- Daily dose of different PPIs:
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Consider taking an H2 receptor blocker (histamine). H2 receptors are designed exclusively for the production of acid in the stomach, therefore blockers H2 receptors counteract acid production. A doctor may prescribe them as an alternative to PPIs inhibitors.
- The daily dose of various H2 receptor blockers is:
Cimetidine - 300 mg 4 times a day
Ranitidine 150 mg twice daily
Famotidine - 20 mg 2 times a day
Nizatidine - 150 mg 2 times a day - H2 receptor blockers can cause side effects such as headaches, constipation and diarrhea.
- The daily dose of various H2 receptor blockers is:
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Visit a doctor for an expert opinion. Medical therapy is an essential adjunct to the treatment of GERT at home. As a rule, medications neutralize acid or block its production. In addition to antacids (which are available at any pharmacy and even the grocery store), your doctor will be able to prescribe the best remedy for you.
- Acid is an important component of digestion and stomach immunity. Long-term drug therapy can disrupt the digestive system. The use of any medication for more than 4 weeks is possible only with the permission of your doctor.
Part 4
Explore GERD-
You are not alone. GERD syndromes are widespread among the population of most countries. Recent studies have shown that 7% of the US population experiences acid reflux daily, and 15% of the population experience acid reflux at least once a week.
Understand what is happening in your body. The esophagus is the food tube that connects your mouth and stomach. In the stomach, food is mixed with acid to prepare it for absorption by the body. This is where "acid" comes in and "acid reflux" is born.
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Find out the risk factors. In everyday life, there are many factors that contribute to the appearance of GERD. Among other things, acid reflux is caused by:
- Pregnancy . Elevation of the uterus changes the position of the stomach and other internal organs, pushing them up and forward, which creates the prerequisites for acid reflux.
- Smoking. Smoking increases stomach acid levels. It also weakens the sphincter, which blocks the return of food from the stomach to the esophagus.
- Obesity. Excess fat compresses the stomach and increases pressure in it. When the pressure is very high, acidic contents are forcefully squeezed out into the esophagus.
- Tight and tight clothes. Any restriction in the abdomen increases the pressure inside the stomach, causing acid reflux.
- Plentiful food. The stomach is stretched at the top to increase in volume. Because of this, the amount of acid increases near the junction of the stomach with the esophagus.
- Horizontal lying on the back. The horizontal position of the body (especially after eating) shifts the contents of the stomach into the junction with the esophagus.
- Diabetes. If diabetes is left untreated, nerve tissue is damaged, including the vagus nerve, which is responsible for controlling the stomach and intestines.
Choose a material. The choice of method and material must be balanced. It is best to use a therapeutic wedge pillow or bed lifters (any material). These funds will ensure sufficient height for a long time and at the same level. You can use one of three main methods:
Set the correct bed angle. The angle of elevation must be carefully measured. Most studies state that the height of the headboard should be at least 15-20 cm. Medical sources confirm that this angle of inclination does indeed prevent acid reflux when lying down.
The area of the shoulder blades also needs to be raised. The transition of the esophagus to the stomach is located in the region of the lower edge of the shoulder blades. Accordingly, in order to stop acid reflux, the area of the shoulder blades must also be elevated.
In the modern market of goods and services, you can find absolutely everything, but many people prefer to make an interior item on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists. A do-it-yourself double bed made, the drawings and diagrams of which are attached, can become a real decoration of the bedroom interior. To make such a bed, you need to familiarize yourself with the general recommendations of specialists, make a drawing and a plan for successive actions. The drawing is needed to calculate the necessary materials, funds for their purchase and draw up a sequence of installation work.
Preparatory work
A do-it-yourself double bed has a number of advantages - it is the ability to choose the required size, design, shape of the legs, as well as the quality of the finished product in the end result, thanks to which the bedroom turns into a masterpiece.
The main details in its manufacture are:
- design, which can be classic or with a lifting system;
- a drawing that helps in the preparation and manufacture of parts;
- action plan.
Drawings and diagrams
Not a single work on the manufacture of interior items is complete without drawings and diagrams. The manufacture of a double structure was no exception. Below you can see several options for drawings and diagrams often used in the manufacture of double models.
Having decided on the type and size of the double bed, you need to make a detailed drawing. The scheme allows you to buy the required amount of building materials of a certain size or order their production in a furniture workshop. The drawing is also used throughout the entire construction process, for the manufacture of individual elements with their own hands and their fasteners.
Double bed with several drawers 
Assembly diagram 
Bed with two drawers on the sides 
Main details 
Beds with nightstands 
Side view 
Frame assembly Materials and tools for work
The double bed can be ordinary or with a lifting mechanism. Their manufacturing technique is slightly different from each other, since the product with a lifting mechanism has an additional box for storing things and a lifting bed frame.In order to determine the size of the product, you need to take into account the dimensions of the factory mattress that you plan to purchase.To make a standard double bed with your own hands, you will need such materials.
When choosing a material, many are faced with wood of different qualities. Experts recommend choosing high-quality wood only for the supporting structure. For the legs and bottom rails, second-rate material can be purchased. If there is not enough money for high-quality material, you can purchase chipboard or plywood.
If you plan to make a product with a lifting mechanism, then a little more materials will be required. Since, in addition to the main frame, it is also necessary to make a lifting frame of the bed. For its manufacture, you can use metal building material. The drawing should include not only the building material, but also the type of lifting mechanism, because its installation plays a big role.
Choosing a board Tools that will be required:
- roulette;
- pencil or marker;
- brushes;
- sandpaper;
- wood putty;
- varnish, stain;
- glue for wood;
- self-tapping screws (30, 50, 60 mm);
- measuring square;
- drill;
- jigsaw;
- clamps;
- grinding machine;
- construction stapler;
- hacksaw.
When cutting parts according to the dimensions of the drawing, it is necessary to mark them as accurately as possible.
Main frame
The process of making a double bed with your own hands begins with the main frame. The product with a lifting mechanism is also made from its base, which consists not only of four boards, but also of the bottom, as in the photo.
Frame collection Frame manufacturing steps:
- in the prepared parts, it is necessary to make holes for fasteners with a drill. The diameter must correspond to 30 mm self-tapping screws that are used to fasten the boards;
We prepare holes for fastening - clean the ends of the boards with sandpaper or a grinder;
We clean the ends of the boards with a grinder - open them with wood glue;
- insert self-tapping screws into the drilled holes, fasten the boards with a screwdriver or screwdriver;
We fasten the boards with self-tapping screws - after finishing bonding, you need to remove all excess glue with a damp cloth;
Remove excess glue with a damp cloth - at the end, it is necessary to check all the corners of the structure, make sure that they are straight, using a building square;
- after drying the frame, you need to paint it. The color of the stain is chosen solely from the personal preferences of the owner;
Finished frame after painting - if the frame is made in the form of a box, it is necessary to make a bottom, which can be solid (made of plywood), or slatted.
Fastening supports for the slatted bottom
Supports for laying rails are attached according to the same principle as the frame.
Technology for fastening supports for the rack bottom:
- in the supporting boards, it is necessary to drill holes for the thickness of the self-tapping screws, in increments of 25 cm;
- for fastening the boards, it is better to put the frame on its side and drawing a line at a distance of 5 cm from its bottom, you can proceed to the installation steps;
To fix the boards, put the frame on its side - before fixing the support boards, they must be lubricated with wood glue;
- fastening is carried out along the frame along its edges, using 50 mm self-tapping screws;
- for stability during the drying of the glue, the support bar must be pressed, for this you can use clamps. An example can be seen in the photo;
The frame with the bar was fixed until completely dry. - the middle support board is fixed parallel to the two previous ones, at the same height, by drilling holes in its ends;
- the remaining holes from the fasteners must be sealed with putty and cleaned after it dries with sandpaper.
legs
Making legs with your own hands is the easiest step in the entire construction process.
Whole manufacturing process:
- a prepared timber with a section of 10x10 cm must be cut into 6 bars 10.5 cm long;
Preparation for future legs - fastening is made to the supporting bars;
- for the strength of the frame, two additional legs are attached under the central support, at a distance of 50 cm from the edges of the frame;
- to decorate them, you can give them any shape. You can saw off one of the corners at a distance of about 3 cm from the bottom, at an angle of 45 degrees, as in the photo;
- at the end of the work, it is necessary to sand all sides.
Fastening of all created elements:
- as mentioned above, the legs are attached to the frame support boards. To do this, use 60 mm self-tapping screws. For each leg you need to spend at least two;
This is what the legs look like from the inside. - holes are pre-drilled with a drill, with a drill, the diameter of which coincides with the cross section of the self-tapping screws.
Legs attached to the frame Before screwing in the screws, you must first drill holes, which will reduce the risk of splitting the boards..
decorative elements
Decorative elements play an important role in the decoration of the product, thanks to them the bedroom will sparkle with new colors. One of the options for finishing elements are wooden slats, 5 by 2.5 cm thick, which should also be included in the drawing.
Manufacturing process:
- it is necessary to make the required size of the rails from the prepared materials;
- prepared slats must be sanded, painted with a stain, the color of which is chosen from personal preferences and the design of the room;
- after drying, they are coated with water-based varnish;
- after opening the first layer of varnish, you need to polish the rails from the appearance of all kinds of bubbles. Next, apply two more coats of varnish;
- the painting procedure must also be carried out with the legs.
Fastening:
- decorative trim is attached with glue;
- it is necessary to apply glue to the surface of the frame and finishing rails;
- using clamps, press them for a while, preferably until the glue dries completely;
- all excess glue must be wiped with a damp cloth;
- fastening of rails can be done both with nails and self-tapping screws.
Mounting the lifting mechanism requires additional skills, since its installation must be of high quality and safe. There are three types of mechanism, the installation of each of which occurs in different ways. Therefore, choosing a certain type, you need to carefully study the scheme of its installation or resort to the help of specialists.
Reiki
To make classic beds with your own hands, the slats are laid on the frame support boards. And in products with a lifting mechanism, they are placed on a lifting frame. Or it is possible to lay them on two frames at the same time, since on the frame they are used for the bottom, and on the lifting frame, for laying the mattress.
Reiki are made very simply:
- according to the given dimensions, it is necessary to measure the length of the rails and saw off from the purchased boards;
Marking boards for the manufacture of rails - for convenience and practicality, so that there are no discrepancies in the length of the rails, the first bar can be used as a sample, and subsequent boards can be marked on its basis;
- after finishing the process of manufacturing rails, you need to grind each.
How to make a headboard and what you need for this
A headboard in a double bed is necessary for three main reasons:
- it is a decorative element;
- protects the wall covering from rubbing;
- for convenience.
The headboard can be of different sizes, shapes and finishes, it all depends on personal preferences, the interior of the room and financial possibilities. Here is a photo of a few examples.
Before making it, you also need to make a drawing with your own hands, which will indicate the dimensions and necessary materials. Plywood sheet, upholstery fabric and foam rubber are mainly used to create softness and airiness of the headboard.
Complete manufacturing technology:
- The first thing to do is measure the width and height of the headboard. Transfer all dimensions to a sheet of plywood and cut out the details;
Cut the foam according to the dimensions of the workpiece - if the rectangular shape of the headboard does not suit you, it can be made rounded or ornate. To do this, prepare a pattern and a jigsaw in advance;
- irregularities and notches resulting from the sawing process must be processed with sandpaper;
- to make an upholstered headboard, you will need foam rubber, a stapler and upholstery fabric. Attach the foam rubber to the headboard blank with a stapler and upholster with the prepared fabric;
Foam rubber must be attached with a stapler and covered with upholstery fabric - if you plan to make an ordinary headboard, then the plywood blank must be opened with varnish or paint;
- the finished headboard can be attached directly to the bed or to the wall.
The bedroom should create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, which is achieved through design and furniture attributes. A good bed is needed not only to decorate the room, but also to ensure the sound, comfortable sleep that can be achieved with the right bed. You can not only buy it, but also make it yourself. Having fulfilled all the requirements, the product will last a long time, performing all the intended functions.
