Hello everybody! The simplest milling table for home use can be made by hand with little or no financial investment and with a minimum set of power tools available. Of course, you should not expect maximum functionality and quality from such a homemade product, but it is quite a suitable tool for performing simple tasks and for a beginner homemade product. The desire to make something like this arose long ago and the hand milling machine Interskol FM-32/1900E acquired in the distant past was looking forward to it. I have no experience in this area, so do not judge strictly, advice and criticism are welcome.
After monitoring the World Wide Web and considering many options, I decided to make for the first time the simplest and most inexpensive, in my opinion, table for a manual router.
Materials and tools for manufacturing:
Plywood 18 mm.
Sheet steel 2 mm thick.
Stud 12 mm, nuts
4 bolts 4*80 and 8 nuts
2 bolts 8*80, washers, wing nuts.
Self-tapping screws.
Plug, socket, circuit breaker and box.
PVA wire 2 * 1.5 - 3 meters.
Tools:
Frazier
Electric jigsaw
Drill
Bulgarian
Welding machine (if possible)
Measuring corner
Drill
File round
First you need to decide on the size of the working surface. There are many options on the Internet with completely different sizes, and in this case the main problem is the material from which to make the table. It can be thick plywood, chipboard or similar material, the main thing is that the surface is flat and fairly rigid. After the repair, a piece of birch plywood 1500 * 450 * 18 mm remained in stock, from which the cutting made the main elements of the table. In this embodiment, the working surface has dimensions of 80 * 44 cm. From the rest of the plywood, I later made a parallel stop and an elevator for the router.
I removed the sole from the manual milling cutter, with the help of which I marked out and sawed out a through contour in the tabletop with the help of an electric jigsaw. I made a hole in the tabletop a little more than the sole, so that the router plate would freely enter.
As a future steel plate, I sawed out a rectangle from sheet steel 2 mm thick, which is about 3 cm on each side more than the sawn contour in the table. Since the iron was not used new, the peeling nozzle on the grinder helped to get rid of the old paint. Iron in 2 mm. this is what was available but in my opinion it is better to use 3 mm. a sheet with a flat plane, dents and bends are unacceptable.
On the countertop, I marked out the contour of the steel plate and, with the help of a still manual milling cutter, drowned the future sole flush. Perhaps, due to the lack of experience, it was not possible to mill perfectly accurately and during installation it had to be adjusted to one plane, using linings for the plate from scraps from a plastic bottle.
Marked and drilled holes for attachment to the router. I drilled all the holes with a drill of a larger diameter, so that the heads of the bolts and self-tapping screws for fastening the plate to the router and to the table were flush.
I fixed the milling cutter, and marked the center of the future hole for the cutter. At this stage, several questions arose, namely, what diameter to make a hole for the cutters and whether it is worth making a composite plate to be able to install large cutters. I decided to abandon the sectional plate, as this complicates this design, and the initial goal was to make a simple milling table. The cutter hole diameter was decided to be slightly larger than the largest cutter that was available, namely 32 mm in diameter. Most likely this will be enough for this table, and in case of an urgent need to use cutters of a larger diameter, you will have to make another steel plate or improve the existing one. The hole was drilled with a drill of small diameter along the outer circumference, followed by processing with a round file - this is the most time-consuming stage.
As a base for the table, I used a mezzanine from the old wall, after removing the sidewall and placing it on its side. Cabinet dimensions: height - 90 cm, width - 55 cm, depth - 42 cm. After the test, the desire to finish the table intensified.
Then proceeded to the manufacture of a parallel stop. To do this, I cut out two strips 72 cm long and 14 cm wide from the remaining piece of plywood. The ends of the strips that will be connected together should be perfectly even. To do this, with the help of a guide ruler and a milling cutter, I trimmed these edges. In the strips in the center, I sawed grooves for the cutter with dimensions slightly wider than the hole in the plate and slightly higher than the full overhang of the cutter.
To move and fix the parallel stop in the base, I made cuts for an 8 mm bolt. set the stop so that it completely blocked the hole for the cutter and drilled holes in the countertop at the far edge of the base cuts.
From the underside of the tabletop, I drilled a hole for pressing the nut into the body of the tabletop. This is to keep the nut from turning.
After that, for convenience, instead of nuts, I pressed the bolt heads into the table, and instead of the nuts, I installed “lambs” through the washers from above. I connected the stop strips at an angle of 90 degrees and reinforced with stiffeners from the same plywood.
The entry-level parallel stop is ready, it remains only to check the correctness of the 90-degree angle, I initially did not match a little. To adjust the angle under the mounting corners, I put thin linings.
The next step is the elevator for the router. Initially, three versions were considered: with top adjustment, with adjustment with a car jack, and with a threaded stud. With top adjustment - a convenient option, but it requires a change in the design of the router and the most time-consuming, and since this is a trial version, I had to abandon it. There was no extra car jack available, therefore, the second version also disappeared. Started to implement the third version.
The pusher for the router was made from a 2 mm sheet of iron slightly larger than the back cover of the router, four long 4 mm bolts and 8 nuts for fixing. As you can see in the photo, the load is evenly distributed on the four fasteners of the back cover of the router and a ventilation gap is provided between the tool cover and the pusher base.
The emphasis for the elevator was made from the same plywood with dimensions: height - 38 cm, width - 30 cm, depth 14 cm. As a fixed part of the threaded elevator, I used nuts welded to small areas of 2 mm sheet iron. and fixed on both sides of the lower part of the stop with self-tapping screws.
The rotation of the hairpin is carried out not by the usual disk, but by a typesetting polygon made of plywood squares. So, in my opinion, it is easier and more convenient. I used five-layer plywood, although three-layer plywood is enough.
The multifaceted disc is fixed motionless on the stud with two nuts on both sides. To reduce friction on the base of the pusher, the pin was sharpened under a cone.
On the pusher, at the point of contact with the stud, I drilled a little with an 8 mm drill to self-center the stud cone. I lubricated the thread and cone of the stud with lithol.
Buying furniture in a store may not always meet your expectations. Now you can quickly and easily make a table with your own hands, which will come out much cheaper. Even without carpentry experience, you can assemble a rather original table model, and then decorate it as you wish. Moreover, you know exactly what your interior needs and what exactly it can harmoniously complement.
Don't worry if you don't know how to make a plywood table. The site has a large number of tips on how to do everything right, as well as photo and video instructions. You can make a folding table for the living room, kitchen table or any other model. The main thing is to draw up drawings in advance and follow the preliminary sketches during the entire process of work.
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If you decide to make a plywood table with your own hands, then take care of a sufficient amount of material. There must be several bars, which will later become the legs of the product. In order for the final work to turn out to be worthy, every detail needs to be prepared, and in this case you will need:
- jigsaw;
- building level and tape measure;
- drill;
- pencil;
- Sander;
- construction adhesive.
Making a table with your own hands, you can be sure that it will serve you for many years. Each manufactured part is subjected to a thorough inspection, and the removal of irregularities, splinters and other shortcomings is mandatory. Before assembly, to increase the service life and appearance, all parts can be varnished.
Plywood countertop can have absolutely any shape. It all depends on your imagination. For a sample, you can take photos from the site and supplement them. Plywood is very easy to transform, so you can easily make even a round table. Remember that when choosing a material for a countertop, you should pay attention to its thickness. The most optimal option is considered to be 20 mm, since such a thickness can withstand quite a lot of weight.
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Table assembly
A plywood table should begin to be assembled from the legs. This is the basis that must firmly hold the finished product. You can fasten them with a screwdriver, but it is advisable to additionally coat the joints with glue, it will allow you to more firmly fix the parts. Remember that you must definitely follow the schemes that you must prepare in advance. Any deviations threaten that the structure will soon loosen and cease to fulfill its functions.
The tabletop is attached according to pre-marked schemes. If you later decorate the surface, you can attach it with a screwdriver from above. In order for the surface to remain completely clean, you can fix the tabletop from below to the building corners.
As a result of the work, you can make sure that making furniture at home is not only quite economical, but also interesting. And the completed project will surely please your loved ones.
In order to make the furniture look more aesthetically pleasing, you need to hide some of its parts. For example, the edge of the countertop looks ugly if you do not put a special construction edge on it. It will not only hide the flaws, but also extend the life of the table. Moisture, which during operation can get on the countertop, will quickly destroy it, and the edging will protect it from this problem for a long time.
The edging gives the table a finished look
Be sure to cover the entire finished structure with varnish, even if you have already done it disassembled. This coating hides all the flaws that arise during the assembly process, and also strengthens the protective properties of the material. Even if you decide to paint it in any color, do not skimp on varnish, the shade of paint from it will only become brighter.
The material that makes up the countertop must be durable and preferably new. Even small cracks will greatly reduce its service life, and chips will spoil the appearance. With the right approach, you can assemble the finished product in one day, and for those who already have carpentry experience, sometimes a few hours are enough.
Made by hand - priceless, heavy powerful countertop and storage space for yourself - also 5 points. Of course, sawing / drilling on the knee is not worth the possible savings of 1000-1300 rubles, but only if the cutting is done in a normal workshop. If there is the same dude, who has no idea about disks and other basic knowledge, is also on a staggering, “like a table” killed in the trash in a “like a workshop”, sometimes even with an amateur jigsaw, it’s easier to cut it yourself.
I will share my vision of the shortcomings, I have a table from scratch in the foreseeable future, now I live with a monster "from the store" radically altered for myself and got for free.
1. The system unit is on wheels, or rather, on powerful rollers, I didn’t have good wheels with movement in all directions, and it’s not necessary, as experience has shown, it’s enough back and forth. Firstly: it is more convenient to clean, around and under the SB. Secondly: access to the back of the system unit is greatly facilitated (it generally needs to be moved to the left, since the cabinet is on the right), it only seems that you plugged it in and forgot it once, USB extension cords do not always solve the situation completely (more precisely, they never solve). Do not forget, along with the rollers, to provide a locking-safety bracket from any material at hand at the back, so that when you move sharply towards the wall, the system manager does not drive the protruding plugs with all its foolishness.
2. A mess with cables needs to be addressed immediately and radically. Above the countertop, you can use penny ties, but they still collect dust, it’s better to come up with something with trimming a box or pipe along the far edge of the countertop. Below the tabletop, the U-shaped corners on the back wall solve the horizontal (cables are again pulled together, better in separate bundles for their intended purpose), vertical plastic ties as a completely temporary option, optimally ties from Velcro pieces sewn or glued to a rigid braid. One edge of the braid can be screwed to the side wall, or you can hang these rings with a cable on the nearest U-corner.
Electricity needs to be solved by two pilots with the maximum number of seats (there are never many of them, 6 + 7 is not enough for me). We go from the socket to the first pilot (you can even use an extension cable), which we hang on the side wall, between the table top and the system unit, closer to us. Be sure to leave 2-3 free cells, stick in the rest easily disconnected like charging and lighting, and most importantly, a co-pilot, of good quality and with good protection (normal filter). It can be hung on the same wall, but further away, we turn on the power supply of the SB, monitors, printer in it, which is still rarely pulled out there. You can also have a router, but ideally it’s generally in a separate outlet so that you can turn off the entire table, and the router remains working. And it doesn’t belong on the system unit, it’s better for him to live on the top shelf, all you need to do is change the standard meter short cable from the kit for a longer cable. If you catch an installer dragging the Internet to neighbors or acquaintances, it will not cost a penny, a sincere "thank you" is enough
The reserves of natural building materials on our planet are limited, and they are replenished much more slowly than they are consumed - therefore, the idea of using recycled materials to make useful things is far from new and has been especially popular lately. Moreover, some types of such raw materials are ideal for making an excellent dining table in the country or in the gazebo. And if you put in quite a bit of effort and imagination, you can make an excellent table for the kitchen.
We will tell you more about some interesting and original ideas for making stylish and, most importantly, comfortable tables. But to make such tables, bringing your “zest” to their design is your task.
Pallet table - solidity, solidity and reliability
To understand how to make a table out of pallets with your own hands in the simplest way, you must first decide which of the elements of the pallet will be used to make the table.
The design of the pallet is shown in Fig.1.
Flooring from the extreme and intermediate boards is most often used for the tabletop and side planes of the table, and the checkers (in some types of pallets they can be replaced with bars running along the transverse boards) are used as nodes for connecting the parts of the table.
Loft-style table - or designer table
For a table measuring 800x1200x750 mm, 3 pallets are required. The table shown in photo 1 will require as many as 6 of them, and may have a different configuration, as it consists of two identical modules. Having made such a couple, you can model the kitchen space in different ways.
In addition to pallets, we will need: a nail puller, a hand saw, confirmations (or nails) for screeding parts of the structure, a grinder, a spatula, putty and wood paint, varnish.
Preparing for the assembly of the structure. Dismantle the pallets as follows:
We assemble the U-shaped design of the table, connecting the table top with pallets placed on the ribs and pulling them together with confirmations.
For reliability, you can additionally install furniture corners on the back of the tabletop.
We connect the central checkers of the side parts of the table with an additional crossbar made of a transverse board left after the dismantling of the first pallet.
Finishing of the structure. Carefully putty the roughness of the outer surfaces of the table, paying special attention to the countertop and the ends of the boards. Allow the putty to dry and re-sand the outer structural elements. Paint in the desired color and cover with two layers of varnish.
As you can see, making a pallet table with your own hands is very simple - all you need is imagination and attention to detail. Try to make a table with photo 2 yourself - you will see, you will succeed!
Table from a postforming tabletop: a classic of the genre in the right sizes
And again, the good old classics, but created with their own hands.
You need a very small piece of furniture countertops to significantly save on buying a dining table for the kitchen. We will talk about how to make a table from the countertop with your own hands. The classic kitchen table (photo 3) practically does not differ from the furniture bought in the furniture store - except, perhaps, the size of the countertop, ideal for your kitchen.
We will need the following materials and tools:
- A piece of countertop made of chipboard (if you buy it for these purposes, ask the sellers to immediately cut it to the right size);
- A set of legs for the table - it would be optimal to buy round legs with a height of 710 mm (diameter 60 mm);
- T-shaped furniture edging (with girths and an installation spike). All listed materials can be seen in Fig.3.
- Markup. In accordance with the drawing, parts A and B are absolutely identical in contour, the difference is only in the depth of the assembly grooves. Therefore, it is better to make one template (from drawing paper), and use it to make markings on plywood. Pay attention to the highlighting in red: the stops of the grooves should be on the same line, and their width (as well as the height of the puzzle ledges in the upper part of the parts) should be equal to the thickness of the plywood.
- Sawing and detailing. Attention and precision are important here: the strength and stability of the product depend on them. Sanding, toning and varnishing should be carried out on all parts of the parts, including the ends.
- Assembly. With the quality of the previous stages, the assembly will not take much time: we connect parts A and B (in the groove), we put part B on top of the puzzle ledges. If the fasteners of the underframe protrude somewhat above the plane of the tabletop, they must be leveled (with a grinder). We cover the details with a finishing layer of varnish - the table is ready!
Of the tools we need: a jigsaw, a grinder (preferably a belt grinder), a drill with a cutter head (or a circular saw blade), a screwdriver. You also need a hammer with a rubber nozzle, sealant, self-tapping screws for attaching the legs to the table top, a caliper and a regular drawing compass.
After all the material has been collected, the tool has been prepared - you can begin to make a table from the countertop with your own hands.
1 stage of work - the manufacture of countertops:
Shaping;
a) We make marks 10 cm from the corner, on each side of the countertop. The center of the rounding is at the point of intersection of the perpendiculars drawn from these marks to the sides of the tabletop rectangle. The radius of the compass solution is 10 cm. We draw the rounding of all corners;
b) With an electric jigsaw, carefully file the corners of the countertop along the marked arcs. To avoid chipping the finish of the slab, a jigsaw file must be taken with a reverse direction of the teeth;
c) Carefully process the cuts with a grinder;
edging;
d) With a caliper we measure the distance from the side of the edge to its spike. At the same distance from the top plane of the countertop, we draw a line along its end;
e) With a cutter, select a groove along this line;
f) With a hammer with a rubber nozzle, carefully hammer the edging with a spike into the groove. For greater strength, it is desirable to apply silicone to the end;
Legs;
g) We mark places for the legs of the table;
h) We fasten the holders with 25 mm screws;
i) Install the table supports.
Table - a puzzle made of birch plywood: originality, simplicity and style
How to make a table out of plywood with your own hands can be seen in the diagram (Figure 4). This table will decorate any room.
The material for the manufacture of such furniture is better to take birch, sheet thickness - 30-35 mm.
You will need: sheets of plywood - 2500x750 mm and 1500x1500 mm, a drawing tool, a jigsaw, PVA glue (if the product is planned to be non-separable), a grinder, sandpaper and finishing materials.
The peculiarity of a plywood table is assembly without a single fastener, and how you can make it as convenient as possible in terms of height and size of the tabletop with your own hands is up to you. The round table in figure 4d has a height of 750 mm and a tabletop diameter of 1500 mm.
The manufacturing algorithm is as follows
One of the most budgetary tables in the manufacture is a table made of plywood. In this article, we will gradually analyze the technology for making a table from plywood. In addition to the material, we attach photos of production, a drawing and even a video instruction, which you will find at the bottom of the page.
Tool and material for making a plywood table
Tool:
Electric jigsaw
screwdriver
Sander
construction corner
Construction tape measure (meter)
Pencil or pen
Construction line
Wood drill - 5 mm. diameter
Material:
Sheet of furniture plywood - 152x152 cm.
masking tape
Furniture bolts
Furniture corners
Wood screws
As for the drawing of the table, everything is simple here. We produce: 2 legs measuring 76 cm high, 46 cm wide, a tabletop measuring 100 cm long, 60 cm wide and a stiffening bar measuring 77 cm long, 52 cm wide.
Countertop manufacturing
To make a countertop, we need to cut a sheet of plywood in half into two parts. As you remember, we took a sheet of plywood measuring 152x152 cm.
Dividing the sheet in half, we got two rectangles measuring 152x76 cm. Here, one of the squares will just go to the countertop, we measure 100 cm long and 60 cm wide, draw lines with a pencil or pen. 
By the way, many are wondering how to cut plywood so that it does not tear. We answer this question, if you remember, then in the list of materials we mentioned molar tape. So, we take this adhesive tape and glue it tightly, then rub it against the line that we drew, look at the photo: 
If you still have questions, then at the bottom of the page you can watch a video on this topic. There we show in detail how to make plywood not tear when cutting.
We take a jigsaw and cut along the lines that we drew. Peel off the remnants of masking tape from all sawn off sides. Now, taking a round shape, we took a metal bowl, you can use whatever you like. And we put the tabletops on the corners, so that we have a semicircle, that is, we round off the sharp corners, something like this: 
We make roundings at all four corners and also glue along the lines with tape. Carefully saw off with an electric jigsaw. 
After sawing and removing the remnants of the masking tape, you need to take a grinder, put on it a sanding belt with a grit size of No. 100 and grind the rounded corners. 
The tabletop is almost ready, it remains to sand all the bumps on the surface of the plywood. Given that the plywood is more or less even, it won’t take much time, this is how the countertop will look like in the end: 
Let's start making a table stiffener
The bar of stiffness or otherwise it is called lateral stability. It plays the role of a support for the table, thanks to this bar we will fix the legs of the table and the table top, thus, the unsteadiness will go away and the structure will become stable.
We take the second half of the sheet and mark the rectangle - 77x52 cm. We also glue the lines with tape and cut them off with an electric jigsaw.
As for the drawing of the cross bar, you can see from the video how to make markings in the form of a wave. After marking and sawing off, you should get such a table stiffness bar: 
Making two table legs
It is difficult to make a plywood table on four legs, so we will make two wide, beautiful and voluminous legs. The rest of the sheet is just enough for two pieces. We mark out two rectangles, each measuring 76x46 cm, where 76 cm is the height of the legs, and 46 cm is the width.
We glue it with adhesive tape and saw off with an electric jigsaw. You will also find how to make markings for a beautiful shape on the sides of the legs in the video clip. We have this drawing: 
Cut in the same way. We transfer the finished leg template to the second rectangle, make markings on it and saw off again. Now we grind all the blanks, except for the countertop, here we have such a set of finished blanks: 
Assembling the table frame
Let's start assembling the frame of the dining table. We take the transverse stability and put marks where the furniture bolts will be twisted. Be careful here, because at this step it is very easy to make a mistake.
Let's get down to business, take the stiffness bar and divide it into three equal parts. If you did according to our instructions, then you should have marks for drilling holes: the first mark is 7 cm, the second is 26.5 cm and the third is 45 cm. The first mark should be applied from the top of the plank, where the countertop lies . 
We take a drill for wood with a diameter of 5 mm. and make holes in the ends of the stability bar. The drilling depth should be 5.5-6 cm, since the length of a standard furniture bolt is 5 cm. We transfer the same dimensions that we made on the stiffness bar to the table legs.
We also begin to put marks on top of the legs, where the countertop will lie. We divide the legs in half in width from top to bottom, draw a thin line with a pencil and put marks on it at 7 cm, 26.5 cm and 45 cm and make through holes with the same wood drill.
After all the holes are made, take one leg and bait all three furniture bolts. We attach the stability bar and fasten all the bolts with a screwdriver. On the other hand, we attach the second leg and also fasten it.
This is how the table frame looks like: 
Now, take the countertop and put the table frame on top. We measure the same distance over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe countertop and fasten it with wood screws using furniture corners.
Since the thickness of the plywood is 18 mm. wood screws should be taken 15 mm. The product is ready, it remains to process the table (carry out paint and varnish work), here, if desired, you can paint, freeze, varnish the product or in any other way.
