How to brush a board. Brushing wood with your own hands: how to artificially age a tree. Painting after removing soft fibers

- This is a long and painstaking process, consisting of mechanical processing of wood and work with paints and varnishes. This finishing method is associated with Leon42, a participant in the forum "House and Dacha", with naturalness, antiquity, folk culture.

According to Leon42, buy furniture and brush it with a metal brush - this is not yet aging it, but simply scratching or, at best, making a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of lamellas and "skinny" - is not suitable for texturing, it looks rather sad and flawed.

leon42 believes brushed furniture should be rough and solid, able to capture the natural beauty of wood.

It is the superficial approach to the aging of wood, according to the forum member, that forms the opinion of many people about products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims”. Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like in the Middle Ages.

Under natural conditions, wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes "work" on the aging of a tree. How to do what has been happening for many decades, in a few days?

Material preparation

For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium hard wood with a pronounced texture, such as spruce, pine or larch. In these wood species, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when there is an intensive growth of annual rings, and they are more “loose”.

Wood with a uniform and unexpressed texture like beech and maple is not suitable for aging.

Before working with wood, prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, whether traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Process any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) after disassembling: you will spend less time and can get it everywhere with a brush.

brushing

Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing a tree is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of the roughness reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

You can pre-treat any part, say, a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep microrelief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Do not forget about the "traces" of the vital activity of bugs and worms. Simulate them before finishing with a drill or drill. You can also apply simple carving elements: pigtails, dragons, etc. - you will get "Scandinavian style".

Sanding: tools and brushes

At large enterprises, machines and automatic lines are used, where everything is provided - from the feed rate of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is expensive and, in general, an unnecessary pleasure. If you will do this type of work often, it is better to purchase a brushing machine. The most common and publicly available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a “grinder” or a drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The whole brushing process can be divided into three stages:

1. Rough selection of soft fibers
2. Grinding
3. Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushing) use metal (brushing). If you are making structures for the outdoors - a gazebo, a canopy, a fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processing with a metal brush, scratches can remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with kratsovka, you must adhere to the following rules:

• brush along the fibers, otherwise damage the annual rings and ruin the woody pattern;
• the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure should be approximately the same, otherwise pits will result;
• the light source should be placed on the side at an acute angle, directing the beam of light across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface to be treated;
• do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the engine, otherwise it may cause premature equipment failure;
• the speed of revolutions should not be higher than 3000, better - 2000-2500: the brush can quickly scatter;
• be sure to work with glasses, do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly off several meters, injuring others;
• take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even eyelashes are covered with “powdery mascara”, let alone the lungs;
• a new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “wave” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to process the surface cleaner;
• work only in one direction (rotation), the reverse should not be turned on - this will “kill” the metal brush;
• the humidity of the processed wood should not exceed 15%, otherwise, instead of a textured surface, you will get a shaggy-hairy one.

When processing sustainable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust extraction systems: the dust of these wood species is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want to get rid of lint and get a better finish, you will need another brush - plastic (nylon), or rather, a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

Abrasive brush - universal, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the item needs to be treated delicately or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 in order to extend the life of the brush. Dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so do not forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

• do not grind the edges-edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip off;
• do not make a deep relief on the seats, table tops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: spilled drinks, crumbs, etc. will clog between the fibers;
• in order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of a rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing - polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, metal wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, tinting is done (changing the color of wood by several tones), patination (underlining the texture of wood with special compounds that penetrate into the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give it an old look, it is covered with various compositions, dark colors look more natural.

It is the right play with the color of brushed wood that gives it an aged look. Areas with soft wood (pores or depressions) are unevenly painted in a darker color, with hard wood (ridges) - in a lighter color. Recently, options with light troughs and darker ridges have been popular.

The easiest way is to apply a generous amount of dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or a wide rubber spatula. In theory, stain should soak quickly into soft surfaces, but slower on ridges. However, this is often not the case in practice, so Leon42 I settled on a more complex method: after complete drying, the ridges are polished with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further processing with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the top layer that is opened remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint in two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the last coat dries, run with a wide rubber trowel, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first coat.

Proper texturing is a simple but messy, time consuming and unhealthy process.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will get decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high strength. Every detail, lovingly made with your own hands, will be unique.

According to the materials of the participant of the forum "House and Dacha"

Editor: Olga Travina

Wood aging is gaining more and more popularity among lovers of antique furniture. Russian manufacturers have noticed this trend. Many large factories in the Russian Federation have special lines that produce furniture using the technique of brushing or artificial aging. Not everyone can afford such furniture, but turning wooden boards into an old masterpiece at home is subject to even fragile female hands. Today we will get acquainted with 4 ways of artificial aging of a tree and learn how to apply them in everyday life.

Brushing - an analysis of the basics of popular technology

Take a wooden board and place it in front of you. What do you see? Tree pattern. Each breed has its own unique pattern, which consists of combined light and dark lines. They are created over the years as the tree grows. In winter, dark fibers with a dense structure grow, and in summer - soft light colors. Under the influence of moisture, sun, wind and weather conditions, the soft layer with light fibers is gradually erased, the board takes on an old look. To achieve the natural effect of aging wood will have to wait decades. Fortunately, there is a simple and quick procedure for brushing. As a result of thermal, chemical and mechanical impact, wood acquires a convex texture with worn edges and chips, which is characteristic of a "living tree" with a centuries-old history.

The brushing technique comes from the English word "brush", translated as a brush. For aging, a metal brush is really used. However, this is not the only tool that allows you to achieve the effect of an old tree.

After brushing with abrasive materials, the wood is covered with paint or stain, opened with varnish. Lacquer materials emphasize the new texture and extend the life of the wood. Standard paints can be combined with shades of bronze, gold, silver. To achieve maximum effect, it is important to choose the right wood. For brushing, wood species such as larch, merbau, wenge, alder, ash, oak, metoba, kempas are suitable. Spruce and pine look especially good in this technique. But beech, maple, teak, juniper, birch, alder, pear, cherry are bad examples for brushing. After processing, the drawing should be expressive and not merge, which cannot be achieved with the above breeds. So pay attention to the peculiarity of the pattern. The more expressive it is, the more interesting the result will be. The presence of chips, hollows and knots on the surface will be an additional advantage. Depending on the brushing method chosen, it takes from several hours to days to work.

What to age in the interior - we understand the issue in more detail

Aged wood in the interior is the main attribute of country style and Provence. It creates a rustic, country atmosphere in the house, close to nature. To emphasize this style, the brushing technique can be applied to the following interior elements:

• "pot-bellied" or ordinary chest of drawers;
• window sills and doors made of natural wood;
• solid wood for flooring and wall cladding;
• floor beams;
• backyard benches;
• shelves, tables, chairs;
• log cabins for wells;
• wooden fences.

Natural wood with the effect of aging goes well with other natural materials (stone, leather, metal). Brushing is often used by craftsmen who create handicrafts. Here are some more ideas from this series: a designer lamp, a notebook with rough leather and wood trim, wrought iron garden furniture

Method number 1 - a metal brush and translucent glaze

The easiest option for aging wood is to use a stiff metal brush with a handle. After intensive movements on the surface of the wood, the texture of the material appears on it, which is then emphasized by the finishing. Before aging the wood, we sand the surface with sandpaper with a grit of 150. Then we take a metal brush and go through it along the line of fibers until characteristic stripes and bulges appear. It should be noted that the manual brushing process is lengthy, so be patient. Intense movements paid off, soft fibers were removed and texture appeared on the surface. Remove the resulting wood chips with a soft brush, not with your hand, otherwise you can drive a splinter.

The tree is changing before our eyes. To emphasize its relief, we cover the surface with 2 layers of translucent glaze. Such material already looks attractive. After a couple of minutes, remove the extra layer of glaze with a sponge and open the tree with varnish. If it seems to you that something is missing, you can in the Provence style. Use white glaze, applying it after the first coat of translucent glaze. Remove the fresh glaze with a sponge after 3 – 5 minutes after application in a chaotic manner. The final stage is varnishing or transparent glaze.

Simplified to a minimum option - the use of a metal brush and white glaze. We pass over the surface with a brush, cover it with white glaze and again, after drying, brush off thick areas with a brush finish. Thanks to this simple method of wood aging, a whitewashed board with a light, long-term coating is obtained.

Method number 2 - multi-layer staining

To make wood look like real antiques, you need to work hard. One way to do this is multi-layer staining. What is needed for this, we will find out a little later, but for now we will work a little on the wood manually. Take an awl, a hammer, a file, self-tapping screws, rods and leave a mark on each tool. Small chips, cracks, scratches and abrasions will give the naturalness of antiquity. The main thing is not to overdo it.

Now let's move on to the paints, you will need:

• primer for wood Pinotex;
• tinting paint;
• white glaze;
• white spirit for dilution.

For the first layer, take a Pinotex wood primer and spread it over the entire surface. Pinotex primer is thicker than glaze. It is used in cases where it is necessary to create a thick base layer. After the first layer has completely dried, we apply tinting paint (antiseptic). Wait for everything to dry and move on to the next step. We take fine and large sandpaper, a metal brush. We work alternately with all the tools, creating a natural raid of time. Next, take the white glaze, dip the brush into it, remove the excess and spread it over the wood. It is not necessary to apply glaze densely and evenly. The lower dark layer should be visible through it. Again we take a metal brush and go through the dried surface, creating more visible gaps. Such aging of wood looks contrasting. To bring it closer to natural, the next layer needs to be made more muted. This can be achieved by diluting the white glaze with white spirit in equal proportions. Apply the diluted mixture to the surface and wait for complete drying.

Method number 3 - an electric drill with a nozzle and paint-lacquer

The mechanical method with a hand brush is reliable but time consuming. To age a tree with your own hands quickly, use an electric drill or a grinder with a hard nylon bristle attachment. We begin the work with the preparation of wood. Take a hand planer and make notches along the edges of the material. We do not recommend using the electric version of the tool, the result will look unnatural. Before proceeding to the next step, we put on goggles and a respirator to protect the mucous membrane of the eyes and nasopharynx from wood chips. Thick gloves won't hurt either. Take a drill or grinder, put on a stiff brush attachment and practice on a small area of ​​wood. Move strictly in the direction of the fibers, do not press the nozzle too tightly to the surface. If you're sure you're ready, move on to the main part. With light movements we move along the wood, remove the soft fibers.

To speed up the process and enhance artificial aging, before starting work with a drill or grinder, you can singe the tree with a gas burner. It is important not to hold the torch in one place too long to prevent the resin from igniting.

If you are not burning wood, then after using power tools, dampen the board with a brush and let it dry for 2-3 minutes. Next, sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper, collect wood dust. It is better to do this with a vacuum cleaner to completely eliminate the entry of drifts under the skin, or carefully walk over the surface with a soft bristle brush. Before finishing, holes can be made in the board with a depth of 1-2 mm with a blunt nail.

The last stage is coating with paints and varnishes. Use paint and varnish of your choice. Tip, so that the artificially aged tree looks as realistic as possible, we paint the recesses in light shades, and the convex parts in darker ones. If you decide to paint the board in one light shade, after drying, sand the surface to bring out the dark details. After finishing the work, we fix the finish with varnish. To enhance the result, instead of the usual varnish, you can use craquelure. After drying, it cracks, the lower layer of paint is visible in the voids.

Method number 4 - exposure to fire and a stiff brush

Aging wood with a gas burner or a blowtorch is widely used among craftsmen who want to get a deep effect. In addition, this is a quick option, which, depending on the use of additional tools, has its own characteristics.

If you just want to emphasize the texture of the wood, do not pre-treat the surface. Burn the board with a gas burner in separate places or completely, and then go over with fine-grained sandpaper. But pre-treatment will help to make the surface more convex and embossed. Remove soft fibers manually with a wire brush or go through with a drill with a nozzle. Carry out firing. After processing, such wood looks noble and more advantageous than the previous version due to a deeper effect on the material. Also, a special effect is obtained by completely firing the material with a gas burner and subsequent processing with a hard hand brush.

When working with fire, remember: you should not bring a gas burner or blowtorch close to a tree. Do not hold the machine for too long in one place, work quickly to avoid fire and be sure to follow safety precautions. Before starting work, put on thick gloves, a robe, goggles and a respirator. After cleaning the surface, varnish it.

Brushing is a unique technology that allows you to age and structure wood. This solution provides an opportunity to give new wooden products an aged noble look. More and more people prefer to create a unique interior in a house or apartment using wooden finishing materials. As a rule, a tree that has a more aged look looks very noble and luxurious. But not many people know that even new wood products can be given the luxury and nobility that a tree acquires after many years of operation. In this article, we will take a step-by-step look at the brushing master class.

Increasingly, when decorating the interior of a house, they use wooden products, beams, ceilings, doors with the appearance of aged wood.

Tools for casting wooden products:

• Grinder or electric drill with nozzles;
• Iron and abrasive brushes;
• Bulgarian;
• Wide brush for varnish and oil.

Stage 1. Rough wood finish

We take a wooden blank, in our case a board made of soft wood. Next, using a grinder and a special disk on wood, we make shallow notches, as shown in the photo below.

As a rule, this processing of wood by a grinder will already be enough for its further use on ceilings or in places where a person cannot touch it with his hand, since in this case, during the initial processing, burrs remain on it.

Stage 2. Fine finishing

In the event that you plan to use wood after the casting process for window sills, doors, furniture and other interior items, then additional wood surface treatment will be required. First of all, you need to slightly smooth and level the surface of the wooden product. For this we will use a metal brush. It is worth noting that it is necessary to work with such a brush on the surface without much effort so as not to spoil the already finished wood structure.

First of all, it is necessary to install an iron nozzle with a coarse fraction on an electric drill. As shown in the photo below, we carefully go through the entire processed rough surface of the wooden blank without undue effort.

It is worth noting that iron brushes are used to smooth the surface of a wooden product, and burrs are removed with abrasive nozzles. Thanks to this, the aging of wood looks not only plausible, but also safe for humans, since the surface of the wooden product will be perfectly smooth without burrs.

Stage 3. Surface treatment with abrasive brushes

After the entire surface has been passed with an iron nozzle, we proceed to a fine finish with abrasive nozzles. When working with abrasive nozzles, you should press hard to carefully remove all burrs on the wooden workpiece.

Stage 4. Finishing

After preparing the wood for finishing, you can use glazing or treat the surface of the wooden product with drying oil, oil, stain, varnish.

In the photo below, the wooden facade of the house has been glazed.

Oil coating allows you to get the effect of "aged" wood. To do this, we need a regular brush and wood oil in the interior. It is best to choose dark-colored oils, in which case wooden products will look more noble. We carefully cover the entire surface of the product with oil.

Stage 5. Giving the effect of "aged" wood

In order for the dark recesses to remain dark, and the light ones to remain light, we will need to treat the surface of the product immediately after impregnation with oil. To do this, we take an ordinary cotton rag. By carefully wiping the entire surface of the product with a rag, we create a visual effect of “aged” wood, as shown in the photo below.

Brushing wood with your own hands is an interesting technology that allows you to artificially age a tree. The natural aging process takes decades. But now, with the help of special tools, this effect can be achieved at home quickly and without significant material costs. Aged material is ideal for decorating classic, vintage and rustic styles.

Brushing wood with your own hands: how the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities increasingly prefer styles with a pronounced individuality in the decor of the room: classic, vintage, rustic and country.

The main detail of such interiors is wood. Thanks to this material, the design of the room acquires a uniqueness and inimitable charm. But for a classic and vintage style, a tree in its original natural form is not suitable. In this case, an aged tree is best suited, which has a more attractive and noble appearance. This material is suitable for the manufacture of any element of decor: a vintage lamp, a wooden chest of drawers, stylish doors and window frames, fireplace lining.

Under natural conditions, the process of wood aging drags on for decades, since the original patterns on the wood surface are formed slowly and unevenly. Therefore, this material is rare and expensive. But among modern technologies there is a simple and fast way to artificially age a tree. This process is called brushing. Interest in this method is shown not only by lovers of elite vintage furniture, but also by those who want to diversify the interior of country houses.

Do-it-yourself wood aging (brushing) is a decorative technology for processing wooden products, during which an artificial effect of antiquity is created for an ordinary wooden surface. The method got its name from the English word brush - brush. The aging process is also called wood structuring.

The method of artificial brushing is based on the difference in hardness of the layers that make up the wood. In the process of work, the soft light layer is removed. As a result, the areas become embossed, which gives the material a special look that is inherent only in fairly old trees.

Types of safe finishing materials for interior decoration, their specificity and features of use, prices.

Process automation: machines and machines for brushing wood

Mass production of artificially aged wood requires speed of work. Some stages of wood processing can be mechanized, which will simplify the work of obtaining aged wood. To do this, you will need drills with speed control and special machines for brushing.

Consider the most popular models of specialized techniques for structuring a tree.

Festool rustofix ras 180 wood trimmer or brush machine. Wood brushing brushes can be purchased with this tool. They are of three types:

• steel wire brush for primary processing of boards;
• brush with synthetic bristles for intermediate grinding;
• sisal or hair brushes for polishing the back surface of the product.

The Makita 974 grinder is used for brushing wood. But during operation, difficulties may arise with the processing of areas at the corners of the part. Therefore, at the joints, it is recommended to use a special angle grinder with different nozzles or use a nylon brush dressed on the grinder for brushing. Such a brush is highly wear-resistant and allows you to process the ends, edges and contours of parts with complex shapes.

The Felisatti AGF 110/1010E grinder is suitable for processing both smooth and uneven surfaces. The tool comes with nylon and metal brushes.

Helpful advice! It makes sense to buy a wood brushing machine only if large volumes of work are planned. Brushes for brushing wood can be bought both with a machine and purchased separately.

How to age a tree with your own hands: technology

The process of aging opens up the widest possibilities for the master to change the structure and color of different types of wood. Before proceeding directly to structuring, the wood must be prepared. The material for brushing should be free of defects, notches and irregularities, and the humidity should be 10-12%, but not more than 15%. If the tree does not meet these characteristics, then the wood fibers will tear during processing, and a beautiful result from structuring will not work.

Let us consider in more detail the process of how to age a tree at home. The work with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, it is necessary to perform the primary processing of the part, namely: to moisten the tree. This will prevent the spread of dust throughout the room during operation.

Next, you will need a manual brush for processing. Depending on the hardness of the wood, we choose the stiffness of the metal brush for roughing. The bristles of the tool must easily remove soft surface fibers, but must not damage hard ones. Move the brush in the direction of the fibers.

If you decide to automate the processing process with a brush for brushing wood on a grinder or grinder, then you should remember that the movements are carried out along the fibers. It is necessary to move the tool with such intensity that the fibers are effectively scraped out.

You need to carefully select the speed: too high a speed of the brush can cause the wood to bake. When using a hand tool, this problem does not arise, but more effort needs to be applied. Also, manual processing will be delayed in time.

Helpful advice! It is better to select the speed on a separate small sample of the tree. The optimal number of revolutions is 1500-2200, but for different breeds it may differ.

Then we carry out the primary grinding of the part. To do this, we use a polymer brush with an abrasive applied to it. This stage will remove roughness and fiber fragments from the surface of the part. By removing all unnecessary, you can evaluate how deeply and efficiently the structuring of wood is performed. If necessary, the grooves can be further deepened, making the structuring more distinct.

At the next stage, you can think about the decorative design of the part. For this, recesses and grooves of arbitrary shape are made with a chisel in different places of the part. In appearance, they will resemble cracks that appeared naturally.

Next comes the final polishing. To do this, you need a sisal or hair brush. This tool for wood will give the details a finished look, fully showing all the decorative texture. In manual processing, instead of a brush, fine-grained sandpaper with an abrasive surface is used. It will allow you to make a perfectly polished surface of the workpiece.

Then the wood must be well dried. It must be completely cleaned of dust and thus prepared for further painting and varnishing.

The application will make the product look old by creating contrasting textured patterns. A generous application of the compound with quick removal of excess will allow you to paint over parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with hard fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, which means they are dyed, while hard fibers do not have time to absorb the pigment during this time, so they remain light. A tree painted with gold or silver paint looks especially beautiful.

Against the background of the natural color of the tree, this pigment creates glare on the surface of the part in the sun. This gives the product an original decorative effect and luxury. The product will look especially presentable if the tree is patinated - painting over the deepest cracks with darker paint.

At the final stage, the product is polished again to remove the roughness and irregularities that appeared after staining.

Helpful advice! Lacquering is carried out on completely dry and cleaned wood. To paint brushed parquet, it is necessary to use a special parquet varnish. This will allow the finished coating to maintain a presentable appearance and performance characteristics for a long time.

Wood brushing: features of wood chemical structuring

Brushing with the help of chemistry is rare, even though the use of chemically active compounds greatly facilitates the process of artificial aging of wood. To carry out chemical processing of wood, it is necessary to have special knowledge and skills to work with chemicals. In addition, the method has a drawback - it is not always easy to buy the necessary reagents.

For the chemical structuring of a tree, acids are needed: hydrochloric and sulfuric, alkali and ammonia. Reagents applied to the surface of the material corrode the soft fibers. The master can only scrape off unnecessary wood.

Stages of chemical brushing of wood:

1. Surface grinding and decontamination.
2. Apply a thin layer of chemicals to the surface of the part. During chemical structuring, the evaporation of reagents must be monitored. If necessary, it is recommended to reapply them.
3. When the chemical has taken effect, that is, it has softened the outer fibers, the part must be washed under running water and the remnants of the reagent removed with a soft bristle brush.
4. Next, the tree must be thoroughly dried, painted or varnished.

The availability and demand for brushing allows you to perform this method at home. When structuring wood, it is imperative to adhere to safety regulations. Work with tools and a machine for brushing wood should be carefully and carefully. All artificial structuring processes must be carried out in special protective clothing, goggles and gloves. If antiseptic solutions are used during work or too much dust accumulates in the air from wood, then you should work in a respirator.

Brushing a wooden surface is an unusual way to make a piece of wood more beautiful, unusual and attractive. This method is very popular among interior designers and ordinary people, since everyone can artificially age a tree. You need to spend a little time and effort to get luxurious furniture or a chic original ceiling, stylized antique. For a better effect, patination of furniture can be carried out.

Artificial brushing of wood: the price of work

The main task of wood brushing is to create and emphasize the unique texture of the surface of the board. The result is a material with a clearly defined natural material pattern. The procedure is suitable for many types of material. The cost of standard brushing is 350 rubles. per sq. m. When ordering additional painting, the cost increases. The price of the work depends on the chosen type of wood, as well as on the size of the board.

The cost of each stage of artificial aging is usually calculated separately. You can order separately grinding or just impregnation. The most profitable option is a full brushing service from the beginning of work to the final coverage with the purchase of material. It is possible to perform artificial structuring from your material.

Wood brushing workshops perform an individual calculation of the cost of processing, depending on the type of wood, the size of the product and the list of services.

Brushing is performed over any kind of wooden materials:

• bar;
• lining;

• planks;
• block house;
• planks.

Scope of application of tree structuring technology

The structuring method is very popular in the manufacture of interior items and room elements. Such wooden products will be an original addition to classic and vintage interiors. In addition, the advantage of brushing technology is the ability to independently create exclusive things. In addition, this method belongs to the category of simple processes available to everyone.

Fireplaces, shelves, columns, wall panels, as well as aged wood are used as ceiling beams with a brushed board. This material creates a unique entourage for living rooms and halls, halls of cafes and restaurants. The interior design is filled with aristocracy and luxury, and aged wood creates warmth and comfort in the room.

Wooden furniture with brushed elements looks stylish and sophisticated. Artificial aging and patination of wood with your own hands allows you to make absolutely any furniture: cabinets, chests of drawers, pegs, beds. The use of brushed elements in furniture and interior design has no restrictions and prohibitions - it all depends on your imagination and creativity.

Brushing (or structuring) is a method of decorative wood finishing by artificial aging. The process of processing the material is not particularly difficult, so every home craftsman can brush wood with his own hands, using the step-by-step instructions of specialists and a tool suitable for the procedure.

Technology and Applications

The brushing procedure is used to give the wood a vintage look.

The main purpose of brushing is to give an ordinary tree the appearance of an old material by processing with tools. During surface treatment, soft fibers of a light shade are removed. After that, the surface becomes embossed, which is inherent in old wood.

During processing, the degree of soft tissue removal varies. Depending on the purpose, the depth of roughness can be from 0.5 to 2-3 millimeters. Deep processing is carried out when they want to give the effect of deep aging. The hard surface of the wood is exposed, and a beautiful texture is visible on it. Optimal is surface treatment to a depth of 0.5 to 1 millimeter.

The natural aging of wood reduces the strength of wood. Artificial brushing helps to increase the strength of lumber, prevents rotting and the formation of fungus. Such properties are given to the tree by treatment during the process with special antiseptic compounds.

To emphasize the relief, after removing the soft fibers, the surface is coated with color-imparting compounds. The tree is stained with shades of two tones so that the relief becomes as eye-catching as possible.

Brushing is a popular way of processing interior wood. Designers use it in the following cases:

• in the manufacture of stairs;
• in furniture production;
• when processing floorboards;
• in the manufacture of finishing lining.

Only wood species with a multilayer structure are subjected to such processing. An excellent result is obtained after brushing larch, spruce, oak. The structure of these rocks allows you to get unique rich drawings of a living tree.

Varieties with an implicit structure are unsuitable for brushing: cherry, maple, beech, alder, birch, teak. The fine-fiber structure of the wood of these tree species does not allow obtaining the effect of layering, therefore, decorativeness cannot be achieved by brushing.

Types of brushing

To obtain a more embossed surface, a mechanical brushing method is suitable.

There are two ways to process a tree to reveal its structure:

1. Mechanical. Wood is treated with a special tool that removes soft fibers and devices for polishing the surface.
2. Chemical. It consists in processing wood with special compounds (alkalis, acids, etc.), which corrode soft fibers.

The use of these types of brushing allows you to achieve different results. The mechanical method allows you to get a relief surface, the chemical one - smoother.

One of the techniques used by craftsmen is a combination of chemical and mechanical processing. Chemically, rough processing of wood is carried out, removing soft fibers. Further finishing and polishing is done mechanically.

Burning

Brushing by annealing gives the surface greater strength

One type of brushing is wood burning to remove soft tissue. The wood is burned with a blowtorch or gas burner, then washed and coated with oil polishing compounds.

With this brushing option, there is no need for subsequent tinting of the product, since the tree acquires a dark shade. If desired, burnt wood can be coated with colored stain.

A tree that has gone through fire and water becomes not only beautiful, but also more durable. It is practically not exposed to rotting or damage by insects, therefore it is often used for finishing facades and building fences. It is not necessary to paint such a fence, since the burnt boards do not change their quality for more than a dozen years.

Modern designers use fire-treated wood for interior decoration and furniture making. Not everyone likes things that look like after a fire, but they look stylish and very unusual.

DIY brushing tools

The process of artificially structuring wood is not difficult if you use the right tool to carry it out.

brushes

When choosing a mechanical brushing method, brushing brushes are indispensable

A brush-brush is a special tool for mechanical brushing by hand. These are coarse metal brushes with steel or brass bristles. It is preferable to choose a tool with a wide end part, close in shape to the roller. This shape will allow you to evenly treat the surface.

The thickness of the wire is chosen depending on the type of wood. The pile should be thinner than soft fibers by 7-10 times. Brushes with straight bristles are preferable to curly ones. If necessary, the ends of the wire are cut off - this technique allows you to make the brush more rigid.

Kratsovki remove the main part of the soft fibers from the tree. Surface roughness is removed with special nylon brushes with abrasive powder pressed into the bristles. Sanding with synthetic brushes removes the hairiness of the wood, preparing the surface for subsequent polishing and painting.

The cost of synthetic brushes for brushing is quite high, but it is advisable to purchase them. They allow you to carefully prepare the surface for finishing polishing and do the job efficiently.

For final polishing, brushes with woolen or sisal bristles are used. They give the surface maximum smoothness and a finished look.

After roughing, before finishing cleaning and polishing, the wood must be dried. Polishing a wet surface will cause the fine fibers to rise and break, ruining the look of the material.

Machine tools and machines

A brushing machine is needed if a large amount of wood is to be processed.

If it is necessary to process large volumes of material, it is advisable to use brushing machines. Specialists producing mass processing of wood use stationary brush machines. Round brushes are supplied with them for phased processing of the board:

• from steel wire - for primary processing;
• from synthetic pile - for intermediate stripping;
• from sesal - for finishing polishing.

The most popular models of machines and special machines:

• Router FESTOOL RUSTOFIX RAS 180 with a set of brushes.
• Machine Makita 974, equipped with nylon and abrasive brushes. The disadvantage of this model is the difficulty of processing corners.
• Grinding machine Felisatti AGF 110/1010E. A more advanced model for processing even and uneven surfaces. This model comes with a metal and nylon brush.

When choosing a specific model, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of purchasing additional brushes of a suitable design.

The purchase of a special machine for performing one-time work is impractical, since home craftsmen use grinders for smooth surfaces and angle grinders for processing joints to process wood. To equip grinders, special brush nozzles are purchased, similar to those intended for machine tools.

Brushing steps: step by step instructions

The sequence and correctness of actions during the structuring of wood is a guarantee of obtaining the desired result. Violation of the recommendations will lead to damage to the material. In general, the process consists of processing the board with a metal brush, grinding and polishing.

The scheme of work of the home master is as follows:

• Preparatory stage. Before starting work, the surface of the board is checked for moisture levels. If it is too wet, then you need to dry it. Too dry - moisturize.
• Processing with a hard brush-kartsovka. At this stage, it is important to evaluate the selection of bristle stiffness. For the efficiency of processing, it is important to ensure that the brush removes only the soft tissues of the wood, without disturbing the structure of the hard ones. Having selected the optimal hard, depending on the type of wood, you can start roughing. The surface is treated along, in the direction of the fibers. If grinding with a grinder, the rotation speed is adjusted on a separate sample.
• Sanding with a synthetic brush. The abrasive brush is intended for high-quality processing of wood. With its help, all fibers and roughness remaining after roughing are removed. As a rule, one or two passes over the surface are sufficient. Movements, as in roughing, are performed along the fibers. At this stage, you can give the surface a more decorative effect by deepening some of the grooves with a chisel.
• Wood polishing. The final stage of grinding is to make the surface smooth. Work with a sesal brush or fine-grained sandpaper. Careful polishing makes the surface perfectly smooth.

Video: Brushing a tree with your own hands

Staining - the final touch in the wood brushing process

Coating the surface of brushed wood with paint or tinting composition gives a special decorative effect. Staining is carried out with a brush or sponge. During the process, carefully monitor whether the fibers rise. If villi are noticed on the surface, it is additionally polished with fine-grained sandpaper.

The easiest coloring option is stain treatment. It quickly penetrates into the soft layers of wood remaining on the surface, without affecting the hard fibers. The result is a relief structure with a special decorative effect.

The original look has wood, covered with a golden or silver coloring matter. Pigment particles clog into depressions and microcracks, which subsequently glare in the sun.

An interesting coloring technique is the arrangement of tones, which repeats the play of light and shadow on the relief. The recesses are painted in a dark tone, the ridges in a light tone. Painting is carried out as follows:

1. A rich dark varnish or paint is applied to the entire surface.
2. The coated surface is wiped with a sponge or rag, removing paint from hard fibers where it has not had time to soak.
3. If large areas are painted, wait for the applied layer of varnish to dry, and then treat the surface with a petal disk with a grain size of 400 to 800. The bulges after this treatment are lightened, then they are covered with a colorless or light varnish.

Another option for coloring is to cover the upper tier with dark varnish, and the cavities with light lacquer. In this case, a dark varnish is applied to the surface and dried well. Then a light composition is applied and its excess is removed with a rubber spatula. As a result, a dark substrate appears on the ridges.

With some woodworking skills and the right tools, you can brush your own hands and get great results. Products made of structured wood have a high decorative effect and give the interior an exclusive, expensive look.