The sequence of processing aerated concrete for decorative plaster. Plaster of aerated concrete walls. Technology of plastering aerated concrete facades

Indoor plastering of aerated concrete walls is one of the topical issues in the construction of gas blocks. The fact is that the material needs to be plastered for a number of reasons, the main of which are the cleanliness and smoothness of the surface, since without additional measures the finishing layer will not hold well. To make it clearer, all these nuances should be understood in detail.

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by ease of use: the material is warm and light. This facilitates their trouble-free cutting to obtain the required dimensions. However, a completely logical question may arise, why do we need aerated concrete plaster? The fact is that the blocks have a smooth surface, which will not allow you to properly fix the finishing layer. In this case, the choice plaster mixes for a gas block should be approached very carefully. Plastering walls from the inside allows you to solve the following tasks:

protects the surface from sudden temperature fluctuations;
provides a good level of adhesion to other materials;
improves thermal insulation characteristics;
provides vapor permeability;
protects against moisture.

It should be borne in mind that aerated concrete, like foam concrete, has a cellular structure. Therefore, plastering must be carried out in compliance with the technology. Otherwise, air circulation is disturbed, which leads to a deterioration in the properties of the material. Plastering of aerated concrete walls outside the premises is also necessary. The outer finish protects against the effects of precipitation and the accumulation of harmful gases and dust.

When to plaster?

The gas block, due to its porous structure, easily absorbs moisture, so it must be immediately protected from such negative impact. If the building material gets wet, there is nothing critical in this. However, you should not allow freezing of water in the block. As a result, cracks may simply appear, the strength will decrease, and there is no need to hurry with the cladding. After the masonry is completed, the walls must dry. Therefore, aerated concrete walls must be plastered only in heat. If the blocks are not laid on a special adhesive mixture, due to which a seam of small thickness is provided, the drying time increases.

There are situations when warm time year there is no possibility to perform finishing work. In this case, the walls are covered with deep penetration soil, which will reduce moisture absorption. In addition, it is recommended to cover the walls with plastic wrap. If you follow the advice of the masters, then it is best to finish the walls of aerated concrete during the period when the temperature at night does not fall below 0˚С. Depending on the region, these temperature indicators correspond to the time from the end of March to the beginning of October. From the above, we can conclude whether it is necessary to plaster aerated concrete walls.

Types of plaster mixes

Before you figure out how to plaster aerated concrete walls, you need to decide on the materials that are suitable for these purposes. Building mixtures can be purchased ready-made or kneaded independently immediately before application. To prepare a high-quality solution, it is necessary to use a filler, which is used as sand, gravel, sawdust or stone chips and a binder ( slaked lime clay, gypsum, cement). Water is added to these components. Cement-sand plaster and mixtures, which use slaked lime, cement and sand, are prepared on construction site. To date, clay is used quite rarely.

As for ready mixes for plastering, they are supplied in dry bags. They include:

cement;
gypsum;
sand;
fillers.

Such mixtures are divided into cement and gypsum, which have their own properties and features in application. Cement-based compounds have a longer drying time, are subject to cracking and sedimentation. Plaster on aerated concrete is applied in a layer 5-10 mm thick.

What mixture to choose?

All mixtures listed above have different properties and when applied to a building material, they act differently. But the question of which plaster is better to plaster aerated concrete walls remains open. First, consider what is used to protect the outer walls, which are constantly exposed to precipitation, wind and temperature. As a rule, these are mortars based on cement and sand. They have proven themselves in constant contact with moisture. But the question is - can they be used for plastering aerated concrete? Due to the porous structure, the gas block quickly absorbs moisture, as a result, the cement simply does not have time to gain the necessary strength.

To plaster aerated concrete walls cement mortar, you need to do it right, i.e. with technology. To keep moisture out building mix not soaked into the block, the surface needs to be prepared. For this purpose, it is covered with several layers of a deep penetration primer, with each layer being completely dry before applying the next. Before applying the plaster, the surface of the wall is wetted. To avoid cracking, it is recommended to use a mesh.

How to plaster aerated concrete inside the house? Gypsum mortars, unlike cement mortars, dry faster, and the surface is less prone to cracking. Mixtures based on gypsum are used for partitions and internal walls, since such compositions are of little use for external use due to the constant influence of moisture. Ready-made plaster mixtures contain various additives and fillers in their composition, due to which the surface is endowed with resistance to cracking and negative influences.

If there is a choice between the finished mixture and the one made before use, then it should be taken into account that the properties of dry plaster are more predictable. In the process of production of such compositions, the moisture content of the sand, the quality of the cement, the accuracy of all components are controlled. As for mixtures that are prepared on site, it is quite problematic, if not impossible, to check the quality of cement. The main disadvantage of dry plasters is the high cost.

Preparatory activities

To fully answer the question of how to properly plaster an aerated concrete surface, it’s worth starting with the tools that you need to work. In fact, the tools used are the same as for applying a traditional plaster mixture. To prepare the solution, you will need a container, which can serve as a plastic bucket or tank. By volume, they should be sufficient to stir all the components.

After pouring the dry mixture into the container, add water. To mix the solution, use a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle. To achieve the required consistency, the proportions of water and material are determined according to the inscriptions on the bags with dry plaster. To work, you will need the following tools:

Master OK;
plaster ladle;
trowel.

Plastered aerated concrete is rubbed with a grater, while the excess mortar is removed with a trowel. Beacons are used to level the surface, the solution is pulled together using the rule. An obligatory tool for checking defects on the surface of the walls is a long rail from floor to ceiling. The maximum deviation should be no more than 7 mm.

Plastering the surface from the inside

After deciding how to plaster aerated concrete, proceed directly to the workflow. As with any other type of finish, you first need to prepare the surface. Gas blocks must be cleaned of the remnants of the masonry mixture and seal the seams. As already noted, a primer is applied before plastering. Internal plastering of aerated concrete walls consists of the following steps:

Reinforcing mesh attachment. To increase the strength of the rough finish, you can use a chain-link mesh with a small mesh size. In addition, a reinforcing material with alkali-resistant fiber is added to the composition of the mixture. The mesh is fastened with nails 120 mm long, which are well driven into the aerated concrete wall.
If the reinforcement process is not expected, special grooves must be made for better adhesion of the block surface with finishing materials. For these purposes, any suitable tool such as a hacksaw.
Applying the plaster mixture on the reinforced base. In this case, they resort to applying the mixture by spraying, when the voids of aerated concrete are completely filled. The first layer of plaster is not leveled, which will provide better adhesion.

A primer must be applied over the rough layer of plaster. It is recommended to add slag sand to the priming solution. It is desirable to apply the finishing layer of plaster using building mixtures with fine sand in the composition, which allows you to get a smoother surface. At the end of the process, the already dried solution is smoothed to make the surface as even as possible. As a rule, smoothing is started 24 hours after application. To make the surface smoother, the blocks are sprayed with water.

The final stage is painting work, which involves the use of paints. Materials in this case are selected with a high degree of vapor permeability. After the surface is painted, it is recommended to apply a water repellent, which will increase the durability and strength of the finishing layer. Lifetime interior decoration depends on many factors. One of the main ones is the quality of the materials used, i.e. should be based on cost. The characteristics of the gas block are no less important, because on the surface Low quality even a good finishing mixture will not hold well.

Exterior wall plastering

The most budgetary and common plaster for outdoor use is cement-sand. However, the mixture is not suitable for aerated concrete due to low vapor permeability. For these purposes, mineral, silicate or silicone facade plasters are used. They have nearby required characteristics: vapor permeability identical to aerated concrete, good adhesion, have a beautiful appearance. They start plastering the facade only after the completion of all processes, as a result of which moisture is released inside the room, and the surfaces are completely dry. Gas blocks must be dry, and as much as possible permissible humidity is 27%. If this figure is too high, the water vapor that will escape to the outside will cause peeling of the finishing layer. Facade plaster for aerated concrete should be endowed with the following qualities:

frost resistance;
high adhesion to the base;
increased compressive strength;
weather resistance;
decorative.

Plaster for exterior decoration can be applied to the walls of the house in a thick layer (thick layer) or thin (thin layer). Thin-layer plaster is characterized by the fact that the material is applied in several layers with a thickness of not more than 10 mm. After preparing the surface and covering with soil, a thin layer of plaster (up to 5 mm) is applied and reinforced with a mesh.

For reinforcement, metal (wire diameter - 0.1 mm, mesh size - 0.16 * 0.16 mm) or fiberglass mesh (mesh size - 50 * 50 mm) is used. Its installation is carried out with an overlap of 50 mm. In addition, the corners of the building are formed, for which they are used perforated corner with a mesh that prevents cracking due to shrinkage of the building. Using a spatula, the mesh is sunk into the applied mixture. Reinforcing material must be installed at the locations of doors and windows. Then the plaster layer is leveled and waiting for it to dry. The second layer is considered leveling, so you need to strive to create the smoothest possible surface. After the finishing layer is applied and the surface is rubbed with subsequent grouting. It remains to cover the building outside with paint, apply textured plaster and a hydrophobizer.

What plaster for aerated concrete fit better of everything, and how to apply it correctly - owners of buildings made of aerated concrete blocks often face these questions. In order to qualitatively plaster walls, you need to understand all the nuances of not only building mixtures, but also the material itself.

Aerated concrete - what is it and what is it eaten with

Blocks are made from cement, lime, water, quartz sand and aluminum powder. All components are mixed and fed into the autoclave under pressure. There, the mixture foams due to the reaction of alkali with aluminum, and a porous material is formed, which is becoming more and more popular every year in low-rise construction. The material is light, but at the same time strong enough. It is easy to use, since an ordinary saw is used for sawing it.

Besides, aerated concrete blocks are not subject to reproduction of a mold and a fungus, being an environmentally friendly material. Aerated concrete has poor thermal conductivity, therefore, in a building built using this technology, it will always be cool in summer and warm in winter. Although aerated concrete blocks are a popular material in construction, they are still a little capricious. The fact is that they quickly absorb moisture, which must be taken into account when carrying out finishing work. Aerated concrete plaster always starts from the inside of the building. This is due to the fact that the moisture contained in the building mixture must have time to evaporate before the exterior of the building is finished.

Lime, acrylic or silicate - what to choose

The main advantage of aerated concrete blocks is their ability to "breathe". For this reason, plaster for aerated concrete should not clog the pores of the material. In addition, as already noted, the material strongly absorbs moisture, which can lead to cracking. Therefore, it is forbidden to use in the process, which in most cases are used for rough finishing work.

Choose mixtures that can preserve the microclimate of the room, pay attention to compositions specially designed for cellular concrete. Some experts suggest using mixtures in the finishing of aerated concrete that create a vapor barrier. In this case, the life of the building is increased due to the fact that the blocks are saturated with moisture as much as possible.

In modern practice, they use the following types materials:

Lime (cement-lime) compositions. The most popular blends on the market. They have not only excellent vapor permeability, but also good adhesion, and are resistant to low temperatures. The most popular manufacturers Knauf, Prospectors, Founding and Volma.
Acrylic plasters. An expensive type of finish, which without fail requires the arrangement of good waterproofing before application. Judging by the reviews and recommendations of experts, preference should be given to such brands as Ceresit, Baumit, Bolix.
silicone blends. Perhaps, perfect material for finishing interior spaces. They are crack-resistant, but quite expensive. Outstanding representatives - ceresite and Baumit.
silicate plasters. They are generally used for exterior finish. They are made on the basis of potassium liquid glass, and the most famous brands are such as Caparol, Baumit, Ceresit.
Gypsum mixtures. They make it easy to create the perfect flat surface, but their only drawback is that they do not tolerate high humidity, therefore, they are categorically not suitable for bathrooms and require a mandatory one. good mixes offer campaigns such as Knauf, Velvet, Bonolit.

Surface preparation is the key to a quality finish

The plastering of walls from gas silicate blocks must be carried out in compliance with the technology, otherwise in the future it will be possible to get a surprise - cracking of the plastered surface. At the very beginning, inspect the surface for the presence of large chips and residues of glue, with which the masonry was carried out. A planer is suitable for you, with which all these influxes are combed. After cleaning the surface, treat it with a primer. To save money, we do not recommend diluting the finished solution with water, it is better to moisten the wall with a wet roller, and then treat the surface with a primer. In dry rooms, a simple primer is used, but in wet rooms it is replaced with a deep penetration composition.

To create a reliable and durable surface internal plaster blocks of aerated concrete should be made on a reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, you can use a galvanized or fiberglass version. Attach it to the surface with nails or dowels. We install beacons on top of the grid, according to which plastering work. Lighthouses are installed strictly according to the level at a distance of 130-160 cm from each other. This length is considered optimal for work, but some masters may choose it depending on personal preferences and experience. Ready options there are beacons made of galvanized steel in the store, or you can make them yourself from a plaster mixture.

When choosing a reinforcing mesh, it is worth giving preference to a material with small cells.

Applying mortar to the wall - how to accurately follow the technology

After completing all preparatory work proceed with the facing of gas silicate. The first step is spraying - this is a method of applying a rough layer of plaster. Not a large number of the mixture is thrown onto the surface with a layer of no more than three millimeters. Further work is stopped until the solution sets. The next step is to apply the base layer. This process is called primer and consists in applying the plaster mixture to the surface with a spatula or other tool. This fills all the space between the beacons. After that, take the rule. It is applied strictly horizontally to the beacons at the very bottom, and then gradually, making zigzag movements, you need to lift it up.

During alignment, a mortar will remain on the tool, which must be removed and thrown onto the wall over the main mass or in those places where depressions have formed. The alignment process is repeated until the rule is clean. After the mortar has set, beacons must be removed from it (if they were not made of plaster). The cavities remaining after this are covered with a plaster solution flush with the entire surface. Then the surface is given time to dry, after which you need to apply last layer, called a cover. Its essence is to create the most even surface, so its thickness does not exceed 1-3 mm.

After all these steps, smooth the surface with a grater. After wetting the wall with water, leave it to dry completely, after which you can proceed to. When plastering on aerated concrete, special attention should be paid to the formation of corners. To do this, use metal or, which are attached to the surface and then plastered. If it is not possible to purchase them, then take a small spatula and apply the solution to the surface on one side. After the mixture has hardened, remove the excess with a knife and carry out the same procedure on the other side of the corner. Clean the surface if necessary.

As you can see, the interior of aerated concrete is not so great work. It remains only to decide how to plaster aerated concrete inside the house. Usage quality materials will allow you not to worry about the reliability of the finish, only from time to time you will need cosmetic repairs.

A house that is made of such material as aerated concrete has many differences from houses that were built using foam concrete or brick. Aerated concrete is light artificial stone, which has a porous structure and high thermal insulation performance, and this suggests that the plaster for aerated concrete is not ordinary.

So what kind of plaster should be used for exterior decoration of houses made of aerated concrete blocks? What kind of solution should it be, and why can't ordinary mixtures be used?

As you may have guessed, to perform outdoor protection walls, it is impossible to use an ordinary cement-sand plaster mortar. The reason for this ban is that ordinary plaster has lower vapor barrier parameters than the aerated concrete blocks that make up the building.

There is an unspoken principle that any multi-layer breathable wall construction should be built in such a way that each subsequent layer has a greater vapor permeability compared to the previous one. The closer to the street, the greater the permeability.

As an exception, you can allow all layers to have a given indicator of the same level, but this is not welcome.

For work with aerated concrete blocks, you should use only special facade plaster for aerated concrete, which is called so.

How to plaster aerated concrete

Plastering of aerated concrete walls is done as follows: apply on the walls facade plaster for aerated concrete blocks. This material is a special porous plaster mixture, which has high vapor-permeable properties.

It is desirable to apply the plaster on the mesh so that it does not crack and does not fall off when it dries.

The plaster, which is used for finishing buildings made of aerated concrete, must have the following necessary qualities:

bulk weight - about 0.8 kg / dm³;
fraction within 2 - 4 mm;
it must be a light plaster mortar belonging to group P I plasters;
resistance to compression pressure - class CS I;
low coefficient of water absorption;
incombustibility - class A1.

The plaster mixture used for finishing the facade of houses made of aerated concrete must have good performance plasticity, it should be easy to process and should be applied over the base. Such plaster can be applied in a layer, the thickness of which does not exceed 1.5 cm, at a time.

hardened, this plaster should have good water repellency.

However, nevertheless, it should implement a good throughput in relation to water vapor, and in addition, it must easily cope with the harmful effects of adverse weather conditions.

How to plaster aerated concrete video

It should be said right away that plastering work on aerated concrete is not an easy and cheap matter.

If you have already made a firm decision to perform plastering work in an aerated concrete house, then use only suitable materials. Do not forget, this is the guarantee that the work you have done will be of high quality, and the plaster will delight your eye for many years.

Aerated concrete is a cellular type of concrete, has a porous structure. Therefore, buildings made of aerated concrete blocks easily absorb moisture. Accordingly, for their greater resistance to bad weather, the material requires protection. Among the most common methods is the use of plaster. Let us consider in more detail the features of plastering gas blocks, where to start, what tools will be required, what finishing technologies exist in this way.

Aerated concrete absorbs moisture very well, so you need to protect it

When to start finishing the walls of aerated concrete

Basic hallmark aerated concrete is its increased hygroscopicity. Moreover, when the structure gets wet, when the temperature is above zero, negative consequences it will be possible to avoid it - it will simply dry out, everything will be fine, but when water enters the pores of the stone in winter, it freezes, respectively, expands, cracks may appear.

Considering this, it would seem that before the wall will be plastered, the better. But this approach is wrong. It is ideal to carry out these activities for the next season, when the surfaces are completely dry after laying. Drying time depends on which mortar was used during masonry. For example, a joint made with a concrete-sand mixture will take longer to dry than one where the adhesive mixture is used, since it is much thicker.

Plastering is recommended for the next season

Another condition for finishing walls made of aerated concrete, which is recommended to be observed in order to achieve a high-quality result, is the need to do everything in warm weather. Optimal time experts call March-October when the air temperature is above zero. If this is not possible, it is necessary at least to cover the stone with a primer, cover it with plastic wrap, so that it will stand until the moment without losing its properties. complete finishing. The most effective water absorption will be reduced by a deep penetration primer.

But sometimes there is no opportunity to postpone finishing work - it is required to carry it out immediately after the completion of the construction of the walls of the building. Here, experts recommend paying especially close attention to the composition of the solution. It must have good plasticity, vapor permeability, then moisture can freely go outside.

If you need to plaster immediately, then you need to carefully select the material

Which side to start finishing the gas block building

There are three options for where to start covering aerated concrete wall blocks. Each has its own characteristics, and only one is considered correct. In particular, you can start:

outside;
from within;
simultaneously from both sides.

Start plastering outside experienced builders recommended only when the dwelling is located near water bodies. The primary task here is to protect aerated concrete from water and wind. Under other circumstances, the method of processing from the outside is not suitable - if you plaster the stone from the outside, all moisture will go inside the house, which may cause cracks, and the drying process of the joints after the masonry is completed will be significantly delayed. In addition, the stone itself may begin to break down. Plastering walls made of aerated concrete indoors will help to avoid the above problems - this method is considered the most preferable due to its effectiveness. The third method is considered the most unpopular way to finish walls made of aerated concrete - despite good properties vapor permeability, having “blocked” moisture from both sides, it will have nowhere to go, which sooner or later will lead to the detachment of the finishing mixture from the block itself, and subsequently even the destruction of the latter.

Plastering only needs to be done on one side.

Sequence of work

Plastering aerated concrete blocks contains three stages. Before plastering aerated concrete, it is necessary to apply a special primer with a brush or roller, designed for building materials that absorb moisture well. The greatest efficiency is achieved by applying the solution evenly, that is, there should be no dry spots. After the end of this stage, the primer should be absorbed and dry.

At the second stage, a special reinforced mesh resistant to alkaline components. The mesh is fixed at a certain distance from the stone - there must be free space between them.

The final, third, stage is directly plastering walls from aerated concrete. Here it is important to choose materials whose vapor permeability properties are higher than those of aerated concrete itself. It is possible to increase the service life of the surface, while maintaining its attractive appearance, in a year by covering it with a water repellent.

The material for plaster must be chosen with greater vapor permeability than that of aerated concrete

How to plaster - requirements, nuances

Plaster on aerated concrete will be of the highest quality, it will not have to be short term carry out on a new one, if the composition of the mixture meets certain requirements, and the packaging contains special markings. Among other things, it must be characterized by:

resistance to cracking, drying out, fading;
increased ductility without compromising strength;
good adhesion to porous types of concrete;
water-repellent properties;
high level of vapor permeability.

Compliance with such criteria is especially important when applied outside the building.

Even taking into account the large number of different types of modern plaster mortars, only a few have these characteristics, therefore, the following are most often used when processing aerated concrete.

Silicone plaster is perfect for finishing aerated concrete outside.

Silicone plaster for aerated concrete has the most advantages. Resistant to adverse weather conditions, has good vapor permeability, water repellency, and is easy to apply. There are no disadvantages of this type in operation, except for its high cost, which is nevertheless compensated by the long service life of the coating.

The second place belongs to silicate plaster for aerated concrete, which has a suitable level of vapor permeability, low water absorption. The main disadvantages are small color palette plus loss of original attractiveness appearance silicate when exposed to dust.

In third place is plaster based on cement with lime. It also has the necessary qualities to cover this type of structure.

Plastering aerated concrete can be carried out with a mixture based on cement

Often, gypsum mixture is also used in such houses. Its advantages: it dries quickly, subsidence is excluded, there is no need to apply a finishing layer of plaster, in addition, you can make the surface as smooth as possible. However, the solution has its drawbacks. This includes average vapor permeability characteristics, susceptibility to rapid wetting from precipitation, in addition, spots may appear during its operation.

In addition, acrylic solutions are used for processing. Their rather significant advantage is strength, but one must also remember about the disadvantages - low fire resistance, which is why it is used only in certain rooms, relatively small level vapor permeability. To prevent condensation from accumulating in the pores of aerated concrete, experts recommend using additional ventilation or internal waterproofing.

Having studied the characteristics of all the materials presented, everyone can independently choose how to plaster aerated concrete.

Aerated concrete finishing scheme

Tools Used

Plastering of aerated concrete walls is carried out by means of tools used in the processing of other surfaces. Beating off the protruding parts of the walls, making them smoother, installing notches where they are needed, is done with a plaster hammer or hatchet. The deep penetration primer is applied with a special brush (brush). You will also need a plumb line (it helps to install beacons to cover the desired surface with a solution), building level, square, metal shears, perforator, hacksaw, other standard tools. Regarding lighthouses, there are several options. The first one is to buy hardware store specialized metal beacons, fortunately, their choice is now quite wide.

Before starting work, you should prepare everything necessary tools

The second, “old-fashioned”, method is to use improvised means: even blocks of wood, pipe trimmings, and other suitable “details”. Thanks to the beacons, the plane is perfectly flat, the angles are correct. The listed tools will come in handy if the plastering of aerated concrete walls is done manually.

Special equipment can provide faster uniform application. The method is more expensive financially, but this is fully compensated by the quality of the end result: due to the implementation of plastering under pressure, the bonding of the solution to the surface of aerated concrete is quite strong.

Plastering by machine a little more expensive

Coating Technology

The technology for finishing walls with plaster for aerated concrete is quite simple - it is performed in four steps:

preparatory stage, where, before plastering aerated concrete, it is leveled, thus reducing the consumption of the solution;
padding;
coating with a thin layer of plaster of aerated concrete walls, which will continue to act as a base when fixing the reinforced mesh;
mesh reinforcement (to prevent cracks).

For reinforcement, a metal or fiberglass mesh is used. And Special attention when installing it, it is necessary to give windows and doors - places where the most significant load is.

Having fixed the grid, the plane is covered finishing layer plaster, and when the coating dries, the so-called grouting is performed, that is, the surface is relieved of bumps, roughness, and other minor defects.

Before plastering aerated concrete, the wall should be leveled

Features of finishing aerated concrete

Starting to cover aerated concrete with plaster, you should take into account the features of this material. First of all, experts recommend avoiding the traditional combination of cement and sand. The corresponding coating can crack, fall off over time, and it also contains a lot of water, which has a devastating effect on the walls themselves.

When plastering gas blocks required condition – intended purpose all means specifically for cellular material.

Experts recommend not to use cement mixtures for finishing aerated concrete

It is important to start work on outer cladding facade, when all the “wet” internal work has already been completed, then condensation can be avoided inside the walls. Moreover, the thickness of the plaster layer inside the building should be twice as large as the outer one, otherwise the water vapor will remain inside the blocks, they will become damp. This is the only difference between carrying out these works inside and outside - the technology itself remains unchanged.

If you take into account the recommendations of experts, aerated concrete will serve you for a long time.

Thus, we see: with all its advantages, the building material is still quite fastidious and requires special treatment. And so that he preserves his beneficial features a number of measures need to be taken. But following the above recommendations, he will prove himself to be very reliable material, will last a long time, and the home will be cozy, comfortable.

Video: Aerated concrete plaster, base preparation

Video: Aerated concrete putty and plaster

Aerated concrete blocks are increasingly used in the field low-rise construction. That is why the question of how the internal plastering of aerated concrete walls is done is becoming more and more popular.

In this article, we will consider the features of the use of various plaster mixtures in the finishing of low-rise buildings, mainly for residential purposes.

The need for timely wall decoration

Before deciding on the better to plaster aerated concrete walls, let's figure out what this material is and what are its characteristics that can affect the finishing work.

Aerated concrete has a low specific gravity, which minimizes the degree of mechanical load on the foundation. The light weight of the building material is explained by the cellular structure of the blocks. And, if low weight is an advantage, then the cellular structure turns into a disadvantage.

The fact is that aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low hydrophobicity. They literally absorb moisture, both from the external environment and from inside the building. Absorbing moisture, the blocks lose their original heat-saving qualities. In addition, excessive moisture leads to the gradual destruction of building materials and structures built with its use.

It is for this reason that plastering of aerated concrete walls should be carried out in a timely manner.

Features of wet plastering of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Plastering of building objects erected with the use of cellular concrete is mandatory carried out both from the outside and from inside. The finishing process should begin from the inside and then proceed to the facade cladding.

The gross mistake is external plaster aerated concrete walls carried out during the warm season. In this case, interior decoration begins with the onset of cold weather. Meanwhile, the water used in the manufacture of wet plastering mortars will, for the most part, permeate to the outside both through ventilation and through blocks of cellular concrete.

As a result, water vapor will condense inside the blocks at the line of their separation from exterior trim, since the walls will eventually be covered with plaster on both sides. With a significant decrease in ambient temperatures, the external plaster, due to the freezing of moisture in the walls, will crack and peel off.

The technology of plastering walls made of aerated concrete does not provide for the use of cement-sand mortars, since such a coating will eventually become a serious obstacle to vapor permeability. As already mentioned, excess moisture in the walls must find a way out, otherwise the external plaster will deform over time and become unusable.

Solve output problem excess moisture without compromising the microclimate inside the room, there are two ways:

Through the use of plaster mixtures specially designed and manufactured for finishing foam concrete structures.

Speaking of special mixtures that do not interfere with the removal of steam, we mean plaster mixtures with high content plaster.

Today, in any hardware store you can buy a wide range of gypsum putties, both for outdoor and for internal works. The composition of high-quality modern putties, in addition to gypsum, includes slaked lime and fine-grained perlite sand. Due to such components, the mixtures are characterized by a high degree of adhesion, and therefore before finishing works, it is not necessary to prime the surface of the walls.

The finished plaster layer of putty acts as a filter material, due to which water vapor is effectively removed to the outside, while moisture from the outside practically does not enter the walls.

Using a vapor barrier film installed from the inside of the room.

Vapor barrier material - penofol

The film laid on the wall, before applying wet plaster, prevents the penetration of moisture into the blocks, so the type of exterior finish is not fundamentally important.

At first, the plastering of the walls inside the room was carried out using the usual polyethylene film. As it turned out, the use of such a vapor barrier is not The best decision, as there is a high probability of accumulation of condensate and swelling of the plaster. The solution to the problem is the use of polyethylene nonwoven fabrics with microperforation.

When using a moisture barrier, it is allowed to use cement-sand plaster mixtures made without the use of dolomite flour or lime as fillers.

The choice of tools for finishing work

Before plastering aerated concrete walls, you need to decide on the choice of tools.

In principle, the tools required are the same as for conventional plastering:

a plastic container for stirring the solution with a volume of at least 10 liters;
perforator with speed control and special nozzle for mixing;
plaster rule;
spatulas different widths(wide 50 cm and narrow 10-15 cm);
medium-sized trowel or plaster ladle;
water level;
graters for leveling and grinding.

The technology of applying gypsum putty

The modern technology for plastering aerated concrete walls inside and out using gypsum putties is as follows:

We prepare the surface. To do this, carefully clean the walls from dirt and dust.

To increase the adhesion of the putty and the surface, we use an acrylic primer, which can be applied with a wide brush or roller. At the same stage, we install beacons. Of course, you can work without beacons, but with special guides, the finish will be faster and better.

If the wall does not have significant irregularities, we choose the thinnest beacons to reduce the consumption of putty. The installation of beacons is carried out on a thick gypsum or alabaster mortar.

We prepare a solution. In accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, pour water into a previously prepared container and pour dry gypsum mixture.

Tip: It is advisable to knead no more than 10 liters of solution at a time, since this amount is on average enough for 1 hour of work.
If knead large quantity solution, it is likely that it will seize before it is fully used.

You can find a detailed description of the technology of mixing gypsum putty in the relevant articles on our portal.

We apply the first layer of putty. Plastering on the lighthouses, we apply the solution from the bottom up to about the bottom of one third of the wall. You can throw the solution into the gap between adjacent lighthouses on a pre-moistened wall with a trowel, or you can apply it with a spatula. The outline layer should be 1-2 cm above the level of the surface of the beacons.

Align the applied solution. To do this, we apply a plaster rule to the surface of neighboring beacons and lead it up, periodically shifting the tool from one side to the other. In the process of leveling, putty accumulates on the rule, which must be removed in a timely manner with a spatula and mixed with the bulk of the solution.
After the first layer of plaster dries, you can proceed to the final leveling. A new putty mortar is diluted, which is applied and smoothed with a wide spatula.
The final stage of plastering is grinding the finished surface and applying a primer layer. After that, the wall covering is completely ready for painting work or to the application of decorative plaster.

Features of the use of cement-sand mortar

As already mentioned, before plastering the walls of aerated concrete cement-sand mortar from inside the room, it is necessary to take care of an effective vapor barrier.

Therefore, the work instructions are as follows:

The surface of the wall is cleaned of contaminants, after which a film vapor barrier is applied to it. Vapor barrier film fasten layers overlapping each other.

We stuff plaster mesh. In this case, it is best to use metal mesh chain-links with a cell side of no more than 3 cm. Of course, you can use a plastic mesh, but metal chain-link has a relief, which allows the solution to better adhere to the wall surface.
We fasten the grid strips vertically with a gap between the previous and subsequent strip for the width of the beacon.
We install beacons in the gap between the grid stripes. We select beacons so that they are about 5 mm thicker than the mesh.
Cooking plaster mortar in the proportion of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. We mix all the components in a dry form until a homogeneous mass is formed.
After that, add water in small portions to the dry mixture and mix until the solution reaches the desired consistency.
The readiness of the solution is determined as follows: we collect the solution on the trowel, tilt the trowel and watch how the solution slides down. The solution, ready to use, slowly slides, and does not drain or fall down in clods.

Sketching and leveling, in this case, is performed exactly the same as in the previously described method.
After the sketch and leveling of the solution is completed, the dried surface is rubbed with a foam float. Grouting is carried out in a circular motion with periodic spraying of the surface with water from a spray bottle.
After the grout is completed, you can start applying decorative plaster.

Dry plaster technology

Finishing the walls of aerated concrete blocks with your own hands, you should not forget about dry plaster. Wall decoration with GVL, OSB and other materials in the form of plates is becoming increasingly popular everywhere.

Of course, this type of finish will be an excellent solution for interior work, while outer side walls can be plastered in the usual wet way.

Consider the technique of frame wall cladding drywall sheets, especially since the price of such a solution is affordable for most people.

Important: average cost running meter frame profile is - 30 rubles, while 1 sq.m. drywall will cost from 100 rubles.

Finishing work is carried out as follows:

We equip the walls with vapor barrier. For these purposes, we use glassine, membrane or polyethylene nonwovens with microperforation. We fix the vapor barrier vertical stripes with an overlap of 10-215 cm on each other.
We mount the crate from a metal profile. Until recently, the crate was made exclusively using wooden beam. But wood is a short-lived and expensive material. Therefore, metal galvanized profiles, which are light, inexpensive and stainless, have replaced wooden products.

To finish the walls inside the room, you will need a guide, rack and corner profile.

We fix the rack profile at a distance of 60 cm from each other, while the guide profile can be installed in increments of 1 meter. We fasten the profile with special dowels for working with foam concrete.

Important: To prevent the appearance of the drum effect, mineral wool slabs should be laid between the gypsum board and the vapor barrier.

We fix drywall plates with self-tapping screws, but not closer than 15 mm to the edge of the sheet.
We install the drywall of the upper row with some offset relative to the lower row.
After the wall decoration is over, you can start puttying the joints between adjacent drywall slabs. We do this with the help of a special mesh tape, which we glue to the joints with a putty mixture.

Conclusion

Now you got general idea about what is the instruction for finishing walls from aerated concrete blocks. Despite the fact that there is a common opinion about the fragility and fragility of this material, aerated concrete blocks are not much inferior to other building materials.

However, this is possible only if the walls of the foam blocks are protected in a timely manner with high-quality plaster from the negative impact of environmental factors. Again, despite the fact that the plaster of such walls is considered problematic, the right approach to the point, in accordance with the above recommendations, will ensure the proper quality of the finished result.

You can find more useful and informative information by watching the video in this article.