How to plaster penoplex indoors. How to plaster penoplex: the choice of materials and technology. Which mixture is best

Penoplex is one of the best modern species material for insulation of plinths, facades and internal walls. It has good strength, high heat-insulating ability, which is further improved by foam plaster. Despite the significant cost, more effective method it is difficult to find insulation of buildings of internal premises.

Features of penoplex

Synthetic foam products from polystyrene have been made for a long time, for more than 70 years. Penoplex differs from traditional plates in production technology, in which extrusion is used. Blowing agents are initially added to the polymer, which ensures an even distribution of cavities throughout the mass. As a result, after extrusion, a structure with closed microscopic cells is formed, the size of which does not exceed 0.2 mm.

The main qualities of the plates are as follows:

• low density;
• light weight;
• well-defined ability to retain heat;
• minimal tendency to absorb moisture.

With all its advantages, the material requires increased attention due to its high flammability and poor vapor permeability. It is necessary to use penoplex correctly, taking into account the obligation to ensure good ventilation of the walls and the need for especially strict adherence to the rules fire safety. To protect against external influences, plaster is applied to the foam.

Why plaster

Plastering is a necessary part finishing works, allowing you to safely invest in thermal insulation without fear of its destruction in the future.

External plaster protects the facade from wind, precipitation, which can damage the material. The internal plaster layer on extruded polystyrene foam can serve as an additional decorative finish.

Penoplex is a durable polymer, however, with strong local mechanical loads, dents can form on it, due to which cracking on the sheets is not excluded. If the coating is plastered, its impact resistance will increase, an additional layer of protection of the synthetic board from the action of UV rays will appear.

The heat-insulating coating of foam sheets has joints that are usually sealed mounting foam. Ideal for shaping flat surface, to protect the seams from aging, plaster must be applied on top of the sheets and seams.

Necessary tools and materials

In order for the case to be argued easily and quickly, you need to think through everything in advance, collect necessary materials, aids, tools.

There are different brands of plaster mixes, priming agents that have a similar basic composition, which does not exclude the presence small features in the nature of the impurities. To finish the wall, the room as a whole, it is advisable to stock up on a sufficient amount of material from one manufacturer. This will eliminate the possibility of incompatibility of mixtures, they will be ideally combined with each other in work.

Advice! Prepare mixing equipment ahead of time plaster mixture. There are many options: from the usual long wooden spatula or spatula to a drill with special nozzle. Pick up good, comfortable spatulas with an ergonomic handle that allows you to easily move them around the plane.

To improve the adhesion of foam plastic with a paste-like mass of plaster, the surface is treated wire brush or needle roller. Roughness will improve adhesion, ensure reliable adhesion of the composition to the insulation.

Finishing the outer corners requires special perforated corners and levels to check the correct installation. Be sure to buy a reinforcing mesh, without which all work loses its meaning. In some places, you will need glue to fix it. Study the composition, recommendations for use in advance. To grout the surface, you need to purchase a plastic grater with sandpaper. The final finish is conveniently carried out with a roller with a small dense pile.

Types of mixtures

Stucco on foam plastic for the facade requires strength, it should not change under the influence of precipitation. There are compositions for universal and narrowly targeted purposes. When choosing, consider all possible types coating loads.

Multifunctional tools

The universal composition can be used at several stages of finishing work. With such plaster, you can fix the penoplex to the wall, then fix the reinforcing mesh on the outside on the sheets. With a universal mixture, you can not only plaster, but also pre-prime surfaces. The tool costs a little more expensive than trains strictly directed action. More high price offset by the possibility of multifunctional use.

Mineral Remedies

Popular with craftsmen is a cement mixture, which includes sand and a small amount of polymer filler, which improves the fixing of the material on the surface. Often such plaster is called mineral because of the predominant amount of inorganic components. The mixture must be prepared in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturers, which often contain instructions on the need to add PVA glue to the mass. If the accompanying documents do not specify the introduction of additional components, there is no need to do this yourself. Some plasters contain gypsum and stabilizers. Such mixtures are very plastic, stick to foam more slowly.

If funds for the purchase finished plaster not enough, you can make the compositions yourself from two components:

• cement and lime;
• clay and lime;
• clay and cement;
• clay and plaster.

It's not the best the best solution, especially since the grade of clay is fundamental to the quality of the plaster. With the right clay, quality cement and slaked lime, the mixture can turn out to be quite successful. Mineral compositions can be plastered facade insulation outside and putty penoplex inside the room.

Acrylic

Mixtures based on acrylic polymers are intended primarily for finishing areas located in areas high humidity, high mechanical loads. The cost of polymer plasters is more than mineral compositions, but greater resistance to external influences justifies the difference in price. Acrylic plaster masses have great elasticity, which makes it easier to work with them.

silicate

A successful combination of properties is demonstrated by silicate plasters that do not contain polymer additives and therefore do not electrify. Silicates pass steam well, do not collapse under the influence of atmospheric moisture, and do not undergo microbiological destruction. This is the most acceptable mixture with which you can plaster both external and internal walls. It is enough to correctly process the surfaces once and you can not have problems long years. Silicate material is environmentally friendly, does not contain harmful impurities, guarantees the cleanliness of the adjacent airspace.

Notable Manufacturers

On the domestic market of plastering materials, products from different manufacturers. The following three brands are most widely used:

• "Ceresite";
• "Ecomics";
• "Stolit".

There are imported products and mixtures of other domestic companies, the characteristics of which are always indicated in the attached instructions.

Ceresit products are presented in a large assortment, including all types of plaster: silicate, silicone, acrylic, cement. The products have good performance characteristics, easy to use due to elasticity, durable.

Ekomiks plasters can be used for outdoor work or for interior walls. The compositions are characterized environmental safety, resistance to moisture. Work on finishing facades using plaster of this company must be carried out in warm time year, at temperatures not less than +7 °С. Mixtures can also be used to eliminate defects: chips, cracks, deformations on old surfaces covered with plaster for a long time.

The range of the company "Stolit" is represented by compositions based on cement, to which stabilizers and modifiers are added. Due to this, the plaster has high heat resistance, does not react to elevated and negative temperatures, and is well attached to the foam.

Solution preparation

Recommendations for the preparation of mixtures available for sale are contained on the packages and in the accompanying documents. When buying, you can get additional advice about the features of the funds, the specifics of their preparation.

At self-manufacturing plasters should remember the main points. The components taken in accordance with a specific recipe must be well sieved and mixed. It is advisable to check the stickiness of the mass before starting work. If the plaster adheres strongly to the trowel, it will be difficult to apply. In this case, the amount of filler should be increased. If the mixture does not stick at all, you need to increase the amount of astringent additives. By sampling, the average fat content of the mixture should be selected, because with excessive viscosity, the plaster layer may crack after drying. Insufficiently sticky mixture is not very convenient to use, forms a layer with little strength.

Reinforcing mesh installation

Before applying a layer of plaster, foam plastic must be strengthened with special nets. For reinforcement the best way polymeric cellular sheets with a density of at least 140 g/m2 and not more than 160 g/m2 are suitable. General rule such - the smaller the cells - the better the reinforcing properties. High quality mesh suitable characteristics helps to level and strengthen the surface of the foam.

Note! If cement-based plaster is to be used, the mesh must be inert to an alkaline environment.

Reinforcement must start from the corners. To do this, cut strips from the grid, the width of which should not be more than 35 cm, and the length is determined by the length of the corner. The strip is folded in half along the length, the composition for fixing is applied to the penoplex and the mesh is pressed against it.

Similarly, the reinforcement of the entire wall is performed. First, a layer of fixing mixture (plaster) is laid, then the mesh is pressed against it, smoothed and made sure that it is fixed. The reinforcing fabric should be overlapped, because areas not covered polymer mesh, will stand out noticeably against the general background. On top of the cellular coating, a thin layer of fixing mixture is applied, which ensures its snug fit, strong fixation.

Grouting and leveling

High-quality wall decoration cannot be carried out hastily. The reinforcing layer must be completely dry before starting the next stage of work. Knocking may be needed for final drying in winter, in summer it is enough from 4 to 6 hours. When the coating is completely dry, before it can be plastered, it is necessary to carry out a thorough grouting of the surface.

This physically demanding job is done with an emery-coated plastic float. The grout is carried out in a circular motion over the entire area until the surface becomes evenly rough.

Coating decoration

After grouting, the plastering of foam plastic is easy and relatively fast. To decorate the coating, you can use a sponge with large pores or a special grater.

There are ready-made decorative plaster compositions that create an unusual texture of the outer surface.

Bark beetle plaster, in addition to the usual basic components, contains white powder and small pebbles with a diameter of up to 2.5 mm. With certain skills, the master can make different drawings from the same mixture, directing the movements of the spatula in a certain way. The work of a plasterer thus becomes the work of a decorator.

If the mixture contains larger pebbles, with sizes up to 4 mm, the relief is completely different. Granules are crumbs from natural raw materials: granite, marble. Pebble plaster gives the facade an unusual, beautiful view, provides shine in the beams sunlight. On sale there are white cement plaster mixtures with the addition of large granules of quartz, dolomite, marble. For some unknown reason, she was called lamb. Perhaps the appearance of the facade reminded someone of the wool of sheep.

Due to some features of penoplex, it cannot be left unprocessed. With constant exposure ultraviolet rays it can crack and lose its strength. In addition, it is easily damaged by mechanical stress. Therefore, it is necessary to find out whether it is possible to plaster penoplex and what is the best way to do it. The article will describe the preparatory and practical stages of work.

Do I need to plaster

The structure of the foam makes it a rather rigid material, but it is not enough to withstand installation. exterior finish. Under mechanical action, it is easy to wash it, which will reduce the insulation layer. With prolonged heating of the foam, which consists of polystyrene granules, the emission of harmful substances may begin. In this case, the plaster will provide an additional layer of foam that will prevent this process. Continuous exposure to ultraviolet rays paired with changes in temperature and humidity can render the insulation unusable without it being properly finished. A layer of plaster will additionally protect the foam from the possibility of fire when exposed to a fire source from the outside.

How to plaster

Manufacturers who are engaged in the manufacture of adhesive compositions for gluing penoplex also made sure that a special mixture for plastering was released. Facade plaster for foam plastic can be purchased from the manufacturers Stolit, Ceresit and Ekomiks. On the packaging of each product, instructions are given on what proportions should be for plastering foam. It is necessary to follow these instructions in order for the mortar to gain the required strength. For mixing, it is better not to use improvised means, but to use a mixer, it will achieve high uniformity. For various tasks glue should have a different consistency. When installing the mesh, its density should be higher, and when leveling, lower.

Preparatory stage

The surface of the insulation is very smooth, so before plastering foam, you need to do some preparatory work. The first step is to carefully examine the seams of the penoplex. During installation, it had to be filled with adhesive. If this has not been done, then it is necessary to walk and seal them with foam. Great option there will be Ceresit CT-84, but ordinary polyurethane will do. This is an important stage, if it is not followed, then finishing may crack over time due to the presence of voids. The next step is to monitor the evenness of the plane. The wall should not have drops and protrusions. To verify this, you need a rule with a length of 3 meters. It needs to be changed to different points watching for fluctuations.

If there is a protruding fungus, then it is necessary to try to drown it by tapping. If it is impossible, you will need to cut off his hat and hammer another next to it. If there is a convex part of the insulation itself, it is necessary to clean it with a grater. To increase the adhesion of the adhesive to the insulation, you need to make it a little rough. To do this, you can use various improvised means. Simply put, it needs to be scratched. Before plastering the penoplex, a primer is applied. It must be shaken well and poured into a convenient container where the roller can fit. The application layer should be such that there are no drips. After the first layer dries, another one is applied.

Mesh installation

An important component that can give the required rigidity to the insulation is a special mesh. Therefore, it must be fixed before plastering foam. It is necessary to purchase one that has sufficient resistance to the effects of various building materials. The cells in it should be as small as possible, since such a grid has a high resistance to mechanical impact. In addition to the foam mesh, you will need metal corners that are mounted on outside corners. First of all, glue is applied to the caps of the foam mounts, they should not interfere with the process.

For adhesive application, you will need a wide trowel and a notched trowel. Using a conventional spatula, the surface is covered adhesive composition. Its layer should be no more than 3 mm. Penoplex must be completely covered without gaps. After that, it is necessary to walk along the plane with a notched trowel. It will remove excess glue. The mesh is cut depending on the length and height of the surface to be plastered. It is applied to the glue and pressed into it a little with a conventional spatula. To do this, the spatula simply needs to be carried out from above. The solution that was applied to the penoplex through the cells will be pressed through and form a homogeneous mass, covering the mesh from above.

Note! Work is best done from the bottom up. In this case, the mesh should be immersed exactly by half the thickness of the solution. In this case, it will be quite firmly glued both to the foam itself and will be able to hold the outer layer of plaster.

Individual mesh strips are laid without gaps. Between them there should be an overlap of at least 10 cm. It will be more convenient to work if no more than one meter of the composition is applied at a time in width. metal corners for putty will simplify the process of processing corners. If their use is not planned, then you will need to cut off a strip of mesh with a width of 30 cm. It bends exactly in the middle to form a rosary angle. After that, it is applied and recessed into the composition. After covering the entire surface, you must wait for it to dry completely. A video of gluing the mesh can be viewed below.

After drying, the surface is grouted. To do this, you will need special half-wires, on which sandpaper can be fixed. In a circular motion, which will be directed counterclockwise, it is necessary to process the entire wall. For personal safety, it is better to use goggles, gloves, and a respirator that will prevent dust from entering the respiratory tract. The next step in the external plastering of foam plastic is the application of a leveling layer. For this, the same composition is used on which the mesh was glued. The layer is also no more than 3 millimeters, and you need to work with a straight spatula.

Advice! It should be borne in mind that in hot, dry weather, the drying of the composition occurs several times faster than in cold and humid.

Final stage

After a day after applying the leveling layer, it is necessary to repeat the grouting procedure. You should not wait too long for this process, because the composition will be quite solid and the task will become more complicated. At the same time, you should be careful that notches form on the plaster for foam plastic during the grouting process. After grouting the plaster, which is applied to the facade along the foam, it is necessary to prepare the surface for further finishing. To do this, the plaster is covered with a primer. His choice will depend on how the foam will be finished further. If desired, cover the surface water-based paint for exterior decoration, you will need a primer that will bind all the grains of sand, forming a perfectly flat surface.

If the plans include the presence of bark beetle or another type of finish, then the primer composition should contain quartz additives. They will contribute to the perfect fixation of the finish. It is necessary to apply a primer on the plastered foam insulation so that there are no drips. At proper preparation surfaces with foam finish will not have any difficulties. The composition is mixed with water in the required proportions. After that, it is applied with a spatula to the wall. Its layer will depend on the size of the constituent grains. Grouting or finishing is done with various tools. The bark beetle pattern, for example, is given by the direction of movement of the trowel.

The final layer after drying can be covered with paint or protective layer which will prevent it from cracking. Interior decoration is carried out according to the same algorithm, but the finishing layer can be, for example, tile. It must be glued with special glue. It is advisable to choose the same manufacturer as the glue that was applied to the foam. Or be sure that the different compositions will interact well with each other. You can watch the finishing video below.

Conclusion

Self-plastering the penoplex and its finishing will take a lot of time if this is done for the first time. The main condition for successful completion will be the lack of haste and focus on the process. Don't spare money for quality materials, since the service life of the coating will depend on them.

Penoplex is one of the most common heaters today. However, despite this, not everyone knows that his exterior finish requires a special approach, different from the finishing of foam or mineral wool. Therefore, so that your efforts, time and money are not wasted, in this article I will tell you how to properly finish the facade with foam plastic.

Features of penoplex

In order to further understand the subtleties and nuances of the foam plastic finish, we first get acquainted with the features of this material. First of all, I note that its correct name is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation was called Penoplex by the people in honor of the Penoplex company, which, as you might guess, is engaged in its production.

The foam is based on ordinary expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), which is subjected to special processing under the influence of high temperature. Thanks to this, he acquires the following qualities:

• higher strength;
• homogeneous smooth structure;
• zero moisture absorption;
• vapor permeability;
• lower thermal conductivity than conventional foam.

Often, manufacturers add fire retardant additives to the composition of the foam, as a result of which the material acquires a flammability class G1. True, only the most expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam from well-known manufacturers have this quality.

On the one hand, due to these properties, extruded polystyrene foam is a more attractive insulation. But on the other hand, due to zero moisture absorption and a smooth, homogeneous structure, this material has very poor adhesion. Therefore, initially it is generally not intended for use in "wet facade" insulation systems.

A big mistake for beginners is that they try to finish foam in the same way as regular foam. This leads to the fact that the reinforcing mesh lags behind it along with the plaster (glue), immediately after hardening.

The price of penoplex is several times higher than the cost conventional foam. Therefore, this material makes sense to use only where its qualities, such as strength, are really important. For example, it can be used for finishing basement floors.

Penoplex finishing technology

The process of finishing penoplex can be divided into several stages.

Extruded polystyrene foam can also be used in the arrangement of hinged (ventilated facades). In this case, work is carried out in the same way as in the case of using other heat-insulating materials, such as foam.

Instrument preparation

So, before finishing the penoplex, you need to prepare a certain set of materials:

• adhesive primer, for example, Ceresit CT19;
• Ceresit CT83 glue or its equivalent;
• fiberglass mesh for outdoor use;
• perforated corners;
• universal facade primer;
• decorative facade plaster;
• facade paint.

In addition, you should prepare the following inventory:

• needle roller or metal brush;
• a set of spatulas;
• plaster grinder;
• building level;
• construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle;
• paint roller and pallet;
• paint brush;
• mounting knife.

Now you can get to work.

Reinforcement preparation

Preparation for reinforcement is the most critical stage of work, since adhesion depends on it. finishing materials to foam, respectively, and the durability of the entire finish. Execution instructions preparatory work looks like that:

1. primarily the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam must be roughened. To do this, treat the insulation with a needle roller or a metal brush. You can also use ordinary sandpaper stretched over a jointer for these purposes;

1. then the surface should be additionally treated with an external adhesive primer. To do this, pour liquid into the roller tray and dip the roller itself into it. During the application, make sure that the primer lays down in a thin, even layer.
   After the first layer of soil dries, the procedure is repeated again;
2. then you need to stick perforated corners on the outer corners of the foam using Ceresit CT83. In the process of their installation, use the building level so that they are located strictly vertically or horizontally.

That's all the nuances of preparation. Now you can start reinforcing the foam.

Reinforcement

Do-it-yourself foam reinforcement is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, cut the fiberglass mesh into sheets of the desired length. Keep in mind that the mesh should be placed with a twist at the corners and an overlap of about 100 mm;
2. then prepare the Ceresit CT83 glue according to the instructions on the package;
3. after that, apply glue to the area according to the size of the mesh with a thickness of about 5-7 mm;
4. then treat the area covered with glue with a notched trowel, while discarding the excess glue that will remain on the trowel back into the container with glue;
5. now attach the mesh to the glue, having previously leveled it, and iron it with an even wide spatula. As a result, the mesh should be completely immersed in the adhesive;
6. according to this scheme, it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface of the insulation;
7. after hardening, drying of the surface, you need to apply another layer of glue about 3 mm thick. For the second layer, you can make the adhesive thinner to make it easier to work with.

In the process of applying the second layer, try to get rid of all the flaws in the surface, as if you were filling the walls.

This completes the reinforcement of the insulation.

decorative trim

Decorative finishing of penoplex outside is carried out as follows:

1. start work with surface treatment with universal facade primer. This work is carried out according to the scheme described above;
2. then you need to mix decorative plaster in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which is available on the package;
3. then the surface is covered with decorative plaster using a bevel or a wide spatula. The solution should be applied as thinly as possible.

In the photo - mashing decorative plaster

1. after 5-7 minutes, when the plaster begins to set on the walls, grouting is performed. To do this, place the malka flat, and, slightly pressing it against the plaster, make circular or reciprocating movements with your hand;
2. after the decorative plaster dries, you can start painting the facade. The easiest way to do this work is with a paint facade roller.

Try to apply the paint in a thin, even layer, and, of course, avoid streaks. To qualitatively paint over the surface, paint in two or even three layers.

It is necessary to apply decorative plaster within one wall in one go, i.e. without interruption. Otherwise, the transition will be evident even after painting.

This completes the exterior. I must say that you can use penoplex for interior decoration walls, for example, if you need to insulate a loggia or. In this case, instead of decorative plaster, you can cover the reinforced surface with putty and then any top coat.

Conclusion

Despite poor adhesion, penoplex is quite amenable to finishing, which allows it to be used as a facade insulation. The only thing is that this procedure requires strict adherence to technology. Especially responsibly it is necessary to approach the preparation of the surface of the insulation for reinforcement.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Penoplex is a popular material used for thermal insulation. Its main advantages are high strength, density and water absorption. Used for thermal insulation of walls and floors country houses. The plastering process has its own characteristics, knowing that all work will be carried out efficiently and quickly.

Required fixtures and materials

To plaster the heat-insulating material, you will need:

• putty;
• mixture for plastering;
• putty knife;
• grater;
• scissors;
• reinforcing mesh;
• capacity;
• gloves;
• roller;
• sponge.

Surface priming

Compared to classic plastering, the thickness of the soil when finishing foam is 2-3 mm. Its main purpose is to mask the results of reinforcement on the surface and prepare the surface for the final cladding.

It is necessary to apply a primer to the penoplex after the first layer has set and the rough sweep sandpaper walls. And although stripping is not a mandatory procedure, it helps to reduce the amount of adhesive required for surface treatment. At temperature regime 20 degrees and medium humidity, the leveling primer layer is distributed after 6-12 hours. The curing speed depends on the absorption of the material by the walls. More primer needs to be applied thick consistency than when attaching a reinforcing layer

Solution preparation

It is best to apply ready-made store mixes to penoplex. For wall cladding, the consumption will be 6 kg per 1 m2 and 4 kg for fixing the mesh. When mixing the solution, you should strictly follow the instructions on the package.

For gluing plaster mesh, it is necessary to use a mixture of consistency slightly thinner than indicated by the manufacturer. To level the layer, the mixture is diluted so that it literally drains from the spatula.

Sticking plaster mesh

When plastering foam milestone Reinforcement of the plaster with mounting mesh remains. Without this process, the dried layer will crack, and after a while it may completely fall off.

It is advisable to purchase a mesh designed for external works on the facade, which is made of plastic resistant to alkaline environment. Otherwise, the reinforcement will be adversely affected by the cement mixture. The mesh density should be in the range of 140-160 g/m2. This indicator affects the smoothness of the layer and the ease of application of the material, which is extremely important for inexperienced craftsmen.

Procedure

Processing corners and slopes. Special mounting brackets are suitable for corners. But you can use a piece of a regular mesh, after bending it so that the edge is clearly defined.

Mesh preparation for walls. Cut off pieces from the roll, the length of which will coincide with the height of the wall, and the width is 60-100 cm. In this case, you should focus on the convenience of work in order to quickly glue the strips until the mortar sets. Spread the glue using a spatula, the width of which matches the width of the mesh pieces.

Mesh sticker. Attach the grid to the leveled plaster. To do this, you need to attach a strip to the upper edge, fix it with hand pressure and smooth it with a spatula, starting from the center. In order for the leveling to go as high as possible, a trowel is used, performing wide circular movements.

Using a similar procedure, you need to glue the subsequent strips of mesh on the foam until the entire surface of the outer walls is processed. The edges of the pieces are recommended to overlap each other by 5-10 cm.

If, in the process of smoothing the mesh with a spatula, “gaps” appeared in the resulting layer, then it is necessary to add an adhesive mixture to these places.

It is only necessary to wait until the applied plaster dries (in case of strong heat, the drying time will be about 2 days). Then take a grater with an emery cloth, put on a respirator and goggles. With smooth movements in a circle, start processing the applied layer, moving counterclockwise. The grater should be lightly pressed against the surface of the foam.

When troweling still slightly damp plaster, the grater's emery cloth must be changed frequently.

Plaster surface

At the final stage, roughing is performed - applying the main layer for leveling.

Procedure

Using a narrow and small spatula, you need to put on a wide spatula cement mixture and spread over the surface of the foam in the form of even vertical stripes. In this case, it is necessary to place the joints of the leveling compound in the middle of the strips of the reinforcing mesh. Then the joints will not seem thick.

For high-quality smoothing of the layer, a rule and a trowel are suitable. The thickness of the plaster on the penoplex is 3-5 mm. To check the evenness use the building level.

The layer should dry out, it will take 1-4 days. At this time, you need to wipe the rough plaster with sandpaper, by analogy, which was used to process the reinforcing layer.

The longer the leveling layer dries, the higher the strength of the plaster will be. If it is dried out, it will take more effort and material to grout the wall.

At the end of all the work, the walls will have to be beautifully decorated. Paint can be used for this. It's simple and inexpensive option, but it will not give the plaster additional protective properties, while reducing the life of thermal insulation and will not last long.

The simplest and most interesting outwardly are facade plasters: “fur coat” or “bark beetle”. The peculiarity of these materials is that the composition contains large particles, due to which an unusual texture pattern is formed on the surface. The sale of such material is carried out in finished semi-liquid form in plastic container. Consumption will be 1-2 kg per 1 m2 with a layer thickness of 2-5 mm.

The final stage begins with the application and distribution of the mixture over the surface of the wall. Next, you need to form a relief. For these purposes, special graters are used, but experienced builders create texture with such improvised materials as a sponge, a hard brush or a crumpled plastic bag.

It is important to ensure that the pattern is the same over the entire surface of the wall. If any plastered area differs in color, then this can be masked with a layer of paint. But differences in the relief pattern will be noticeable even on a painted wall.

Conclusion

The foam plastering process is a simple process that even an inexperienced master can do with his own hands. The main thing in this matter is to fix the material with high quality so that the structure does not deform. At this stage, beginners will not be hindered by the help of a specialist, since he is the most basic, and the rest of the work is done alone. In addition, it is worth using materials of proper quality, in order to avoid problems in the process of plastering and extend the life of the structure.

Expanded polystyrene plates can, perhaps, be considered the most the best option insulation for external walls. Judge for yourself: it is not blown by the wind, is not afraid of rodents, practically does not absorb moisture. And yet, it has sufficient rigidity so that it is possible to plaster the walls lined with it.

How to plaster penoplex outside, and what is the essence of this technology in general? You will learn about this from the video in this article, which is a visual application to its theoretical part.

Advantages and characteristics of penoplex

The main advantage of the Penoplex Wall insulation, which you see in the photo below, is the low coefficient of thermal conductivity, which does not exceed 0.03 W / M * 0C. At the same time, its compressive strength is 0.20 kgf/cm2, and its density is not less than 25 kg/m3.

So:

• Low vapor permeability, with which only materials based on foamed polyethylene (penofol, isolon) can be compared, allows you to omit such technological operation like mounting vapor barrier films. Since penoplex does not corrode, its service life is at least half a century.

• The structure of the plates is homogeneous, with evenly distributed pores, which greatly increases the strength of the material. But at the same time, it can be easily cut with a clerical knife, which makes it possible for any owner to insulate the house with their own hands.
• Thanks to high density, wall polystyrene foam does not change over time geometric parameters, and it can be used as a base for plaster. Its resistance to moisture allows the installation of plates on the facade in any weather.

Foam sheets have standard size 1200*600 mm. At the same time, the thickness can vary between 30-100 mm, on which its price depends. It is sold in packs, in which the number of plates depends on their thickness. The package contains 14 plates with a thickness of 30 mm, and it costs 4900-5000 rubles.

What you need for plastering on insulation

For the installation of penoplex, one device is needed, for plaster - others. Therefore, in order to plaster the walls with insulation, a fairly large list is collected. Let's take a look at what it includes.

Tools and Consumables

To perform measurements and control planes, you need a tape measure; metal square; plumb; two-meter bubble, and water levels. To prepare the surfaces, they use a steel brush, a brush-brush, which is also useful for applying a primer, as well as masking tape and polyethylene, which is used to cover window blocks and doors.

You will need:

• Perforator or drill with drills and a “mixer” nozzle, it will be needed both for drilling holes in the walls and for mixing the adhesive and plaster mixture. A hammer in the form of a pickaxe is used both in the preparation process and for driving dowels into holes.

• For fixing heat-insulating plates, not ordinary dowel-nails are used., and dowel-fungi, which are also called dish-shaped. They have a wide flat head, which does not allow fasteners to "drown" in the thickness of the plate. You should take fasteners with a diameter of 10 mm, but the length of the dowel is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. Since it must exceed the thickness of the material to be reinforced by 30 mm in length, then for a 50 mm thick insulation, an 80 mm long dowel is needed. They are sold in packs of 1000 pieces, although the price is per piece (8-10 rubles). To tighten the cores of the dowels, you must have a screwdriver, or an appropriate nozzle on the drill.
• Plates are cut either with a knife with a blade length of at least 250 mm, or a fine-toothed universal hacksaw. It is also necessary to have two types of scissors in the arsenal: for metal, for cutting the base profile, and simple ones, for cutting fiberglass mesh.

Note! A mesh with a cell of 4 * 4 or 5 * 5 mm is used to reinforce the screed, which will become the basis for the finishing layer. It is sold in rolls of 50m, and, depending on the width, it costs between 1900-2500 rubles. When buying a grid, you need to pay attention to the fact that the label says: “facade”, as there are also painting and plastering options that are not suitable for the facade.

• List Supplies must complete the plinth profile, which in this case plays the role of a starting bar, and serves as a support for the first row of insulation. To connect its ends, special docking elements are needed. To adjoin the grid to the door and window openings was of high quality, the abutment profile is used.

• To protect the corners of the house from mechanical damage need plaster corners with mesh, and for leveling profiles along the plane - plastic expansion joints. Since the penoplex is attached not only with dowels, but also sits on glue, respectively, you will have to buy glue for insulation, and a water-dispersion primer that will strengthen the base base.
• But for mounting the grid, you need not glue, but adhesive putty. For the best adhesion of the finishing layer of plaster, with a reinforcing layer, it is necessary to use a primer - a primer, which should be selected for the type of mortar that will be applied to it. By the way, about the decorative layer: most often, so-called warm plasters are used for this purpose.

And they are called so, because in them, as a filler, there are materials that are raw materials for the manufacture of heaters. These are balls of foamed glass, perlite, vermiculite - and the same polystyrene, only granulated. Such plaster itself is a heat-insulating material, and thus improves the thermal engineering of the facade as a whole.

As for the tools for applying mixtures, you will need the usual arsenal of a plasterer: a set of spatulas, including notched ones, through which glue is applied to the plates; straight and corner trowels; graters made of stainless steel and plastic; as well as aluminum rule, roller, and sanding block (see Wall Plaster Tool: What You Need for the Job).

Tools that are considered general construction are in almost every home, and what is not, you will have to buy or borrow. But about consumables, you can not bother, but buy a warm plaster system from the manufacturer. In this case, you will be offered a kit that has everything - from mounting profiles to dry plaster mixture.

Plastering process

So, let's figure out how facade plastering is done on foam plastic. As always, work begins with the definition of the geometry of the facade and the preparation of the surface of the walls. Those who do not think that it is necessary to spend time on this are greatly mistaken.

Where the foundation is not properly prepared, problems begin in the first place:

• To polystyrene boards well glued to the walls, their surface should not have any dust or sagging masonry mortar, no residue old plaster. Any stains: mastics, rust, mold are also removed. But the surface should not only be clean, but also even.
• This is very important, since on walls with bumps and cavities, there will be too large joints between the heat-insulating plates. So if there is a curve at the base Brick wall, then it should be leveled with cement plaster, let it dry, and only then proceed with the installation of the plates.