Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels with insulation. Do-it-yourself installation of pvc facade panels. Surface preparation, lathing

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Landscape designer with 4 years experience

Today they offer many systems and options for finishing the facade: you can sheathe the house with brick, wood panels, achieve a spectacular imitation of natural stone. Houses with Japanese materials look neat and representative. Is it possible to install facade panels with your own hands, what features should be taken into account?

How to properly install siding

It is worth taking care of the equipment of the tool in advance. Installation of facade panels will necessarily require the presence of the following things:

1. For marking surfaces: an ordinary mounting level, a tape measure, a plumb line, a water level or a laser level, a chalk line, a square, a pencil.
2. For sawing and cutting panels, battens: a fine-toothed saw, or a hacksaw for metal, an electric jigsaw and a grinder to speed up the process, metal shears, a cutter knife.
3. To install facade panels: screwdriver, screwdriver.

Before starting work, it is reasonable to sketch out a drawing of the building for the correct distribution of panels over the entire surface, determining the required number in order to avoid a large number of unusable trimmings. The most important event in the installation of facade panels is the preliminary preparation of the plane: marking the vertical guides of the frame with a step and according to the scheme recommended by the manufacturer, installing the crate with a starting horizontal bar exclusively by level. Further actions are primitive and do not cause any particular difficulties.

Step by step instructions for installing siding

The entire technology for installing facade panels can be divided into 6 parts in stages:

1. wall preparation;
2. installation of vertical guides of the crate, if necessary, laying insulation;
3. fixing the lower starting horizontal trim of the facade;
4. J-profile installation;
5. corner device;
6. cladding with facade panels.

Wall surface preparation

If the wooden wall is even, which is rare, then the siding can be mounted directly on it, without crates. Flat is not a perfectly smooth surface, but the absence of bulges and dips that are detected upon careful visual inspection. At the walls of the log, the seams must be caulked, the wooden surface must be treated with an antiseptic and dried. On the old building, the surface of the wall is cleaned from the previous finish, nails, crumbling blocks or rotten boards, and weak points are strengthened. Work is underway to insulate the building.

Basic installation rules

The bars under the frame must be dried and treated with biosecurity, otherwise the whole siding will lead over time. In this regard, it is more reliable to carry out the installation of facades with a galvanized metal profile lathing, using nails or screws protected from corrosion. For the extreme vertical guides, beacons with a stretched rope are installed, then the rest of the planks are stuffed along the plumb line.

The easiest way to achieve perfect evenness is with a metal profile and drywall mounts, with which the gap between the rail and the wall is adjusted. Installation of basement siding from Docke vinyl panels under brick or natural stone implies a step between vertical slats of no more than 400 mm. In general, you need to calculate so that the lath of the crate corresponds to the attachment point in the middle of the panel - there should be three attachment points in total along with the central one.

In this matter, it is better to follow the recommendations of the siding manufacturer, especially for heavy or long materials, such as porcelain stoneware, wood, steel. For the less common vertical arrangement of facade panels, a horizontal crate is similarly performed. Siding is installed from left to right, rows from bottom to top.

If metal siding is being installed, then at the attachment point it is important to leave a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the perforated plank, with the expectation of thermal expansion of the material. Before joining the panel to the corner, a gap of at least 6 mm must be maintained. At temperatures during installation below +5 ° C, the interval should be increased to 9 mm. Such amendments are especially true for vinyl siding (Deck or Alt), which "walks" when heated, and warps when there is no room for "walking". Temperature gaps must be observed at all points of joining with the profile.

The starting strip, from which the fastening of the facade panels will begin, is marked along the entire perimeter of the building with a chalk cord fixed on nails driven into the corners. The location of the drive-in is determined by the water level with alignment under the "horizon" from the lowest point of the wall. The profile is fixed from this point. If the house is on a slope, then it may turn out that in some places the length of the crate is not enough. To adjust, cut the planks of the required size and build up the frame.

At the corners, mark the width of the corner profile, after which you can proceed with the installation of the starting strip indented from the corner marks. When joining and fastening the profile, the rules for observing temperature gaps apply. Be sure to check the evenness of the horizontal installation with a conventional level. If a basement tide is provided for fastening, then the starting profile is stuffed over it along the horizon line.

For edging the slopes of window and door openings, the factory of facade panels fastens the J-profile, it is also possible to replace the internal corner profile with it. When making openings in the profile, cuts are made on the mounting side with a step of 50-100 mm. External docking can be done both directly and at an angle of 45 ° using cuts and folds, after analyzing the necessary parameters of the external view. Internal corners are connected using one or two universal J profiles.

Mounting corners

The last preparatory stage before installing the siding is the installation of external corners. The fasteners should recede from the roof eaves by 3 mm, the lower end should protrude beyond the starting bar by 4-6 mm. Verticality is checked by a level. Docking is carried out at the same distance at all corners of the building, overlapping with the top element overlapping the bottom one.

• Start installation from the least visible wall of the building, which will give you the opportunity to "fill your hand" and eliminate shortcomings.
• Every 2-3 rows of cladding panels, check the facade structure for horizontal level.
• 2 days before installation, store the panels in a warm room to start installation with optimal thermal expansion of the material.
• Screw the screws in the center of the mounting hole.

Where to order and how much does the installation of facades cost?

Services for the installation of facade panels are provided by construction and repair teams specializing in the external cladding of buildings. You can find these on the recommendations of friends, ads in information publications or online using the services of construction portals. In June 2016, the following prices for siding installation were formed:

• installation of wooden crates per sq.m. from 100 rubles, metal - from 380 rubles, the cost of performing work on a brick or concrete wall increases by 20-50%;
• installation of vinyl panels per sq.m. - from 250 rubles, metal - from 210 rubles, fiber cement boards - from 680 rubles, basement siding - from 300 rubles.

Video: do-it-yourself siding installation

When the house is built, you should take care of the facade decoration, which should be not only beautiful, but also functional. Today, there is a huge variety of materials that protect the walls of a frame house from moisture, natural precipitation, and wind. The most common material today can be called facade panels.

Installation of facade panels

The surface on which the facade panels are attached must be clean (without fungus and mold formations), as well as smooth and without cracks - they must first be eliminated.

A crate made of metal treated or treated with an anti-corrosion spray, such as zinc, is mounted around the perimeter.

The formed frame creates and provides a flat surface. A heater or is added to the resulting voids. This is necessary for the so-called heat shield effect, it effectively retains heat indoors.

Installation of the first facade panel

With
the tart plank is attached at the lowest point of the building, it is necessary to leave 10 cm from each edge of the wall in order to mount the outer corners there. It is important that its position remains horizontal, since the rest of the panels will be oriented towards it.

Sometimes it is necessary to cut the panels of the 1st row, for this you can use a circular saw, in such situations the starting profile is not used: the panels are only fastened through the front side with 5 nails or more, if necessary. A separate hole is drilled under each nail.

Subsequent rows of façade panels should be installed with a small distance so that the material has room for expansion.

Often the top row also needs trimming, do not violate the integrity of the protective layer in this case, otherwise the facade panels will not only look ugly, but their technical characteristics will deteriorate.

Types of facade panels and the specifics of their installation

• Fiberboards and Japanese fiberboards

Consist of reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are distinguished by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), or to the supporting frame of the building (16 mm panels and more). Thin panels are mounted on galvanized screws, thicker ones are fixed with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on the frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall on brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on the frame structure at the time of settlement). A vapor barrier film is placed between the cells of the frame, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.

Additional workflow levels: a basement ebb is fixed to the frame (above the blind area by 5-10 cm);

Kleimers for installation of plates are placed on all vertical guides.

A seam bar is made to properly position the plates relative to each other.

On the clamps located below, fiber plates are put on and fixed with fasteners. All joints are processed and painted in the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous decoration of the house, remove irregularities. Then the walls must be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. It can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area and. The cells of the lattice are also filled with insulation and film.

The specificity of the work lies in the fact that plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting locks and attaching them to self-tapping screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

Differ in the increased level of durability and a polymeric sheeting. requires a metal crate, which is attached to the walls with perforated hangers.

Insulation is laid in the cells, but it is necessary to provide for such an aspect as the possibility of a facade, otherwise the condensate formed under the metal will begin to destroy the wooden surface.

Mounted from the bottom corner.

Installation starts from the left corner in the starting profile, the clamps are fixed on the spikes, to which the next thermal panel is attached.

• Sandwich panels. Mounting. Facade of a frame house

This name is not accidental, since the panel contains 3 layers, one of which is a heater.

Such panels are not easy to install alone: ​​first, a U-profile is attached, where the 1st panel is inserted, and a frame from the corner of the building. Everything is set according to the level, the plate is attached directly to the frame.

Owners of private houses are often looking for the most simple, but beautiful and individual way of decorating walls. More recently, facade panels have appeared that, at a low cost, can perfectly cope with the tasks. Installation of facade panels is so simple that you do not need to invite a specialized team, but you can do everything on your own.

This method of finishing external walls is so popular that you immediately want to figure out what the secret is. Those who have already been lucky enough to sheathe a house in this way give extremely positive feedback.

• Price. The cost of the panels themselves, as well as all the necessary materials for fastening and arranging the frame, is much lower than for natural materials.
• Mounting. The whole process is quite simple. If you carefully read the instructions and strictly follow the recommendations, then you can handle it on your own. For installation, you do not need to buy special expensive tools. There will be enough of those that each owner has. Well, at least you can borrow.
• The ability to heat and soundproof the building. Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels is carried out according to the principle. That is, the frame is first installed, and then the lining is attached to it. Insulation can be laid in the space that has formed between the main scrap wall and the sheathing. It will keep all the heat inside the premises, and not release it into the atmosphere. The same layer will help protect yourself from external noise.
• The weight. Natural materials create a large load on load-bearing walls, and not every structure is able to withstand this. Facade panels weigh relatively little, which is why they are an excellent option for those houses. Which lacks strength.
• Lifetime. Thanks to synthetic components, facade panels serve for a very long time - up to 50 years. But this figure will depend on the correct installation, and on the quality of the selected material.
• Variety of colors and textures. Manufacturers, seeking to conquer a wider range of the construction market, create a wide variety of shades and textures. Thus, among the facade panels you can find a wide variety of imitations, ranging from brickwork to wood or stone.
• Ease of care. To wash the cladding, it is enough to douse it with water from a hose, but rainwater will also cope with this task perfectly.

Varieties of finishing materials

For cladding, different types of facade panels are used. They differ in the materials that were used for production, some technical characteristics and, of course, the price. The following varieties are found on the construction market:

1. Fiber cement panels.
2. Sandwich systems.
3. Thermal panels.
4. Siding.

Fiber cement panels

The basis includes cement, wood and synthetic additives that give the material plasticity. This option is the most environmentally friendly. It perfectly passes moisture to the outside, does not burn, resists putrefactive processes and reliably protects the main structure.

Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels is carried out on the frame in 2 ways:

1. Open. Mainly used for fiber cement boards up to 14 mm thick. Through holes are made in the element, through which galvanized self-tapping screws are screwed into the frame. After the whole process is completed, the hats need to be painted in a suitable color. This will help both mask the fasteners and protect them from moisture. A small gap is left between the tiles for filling with a hermetic composition.
2. Hidden. Suitable for heavier tiles with a thickness greater than 16mm. In this case, clamps are used as fasteners. This method allows you to more securely fix the element and hide the horizontal seam.

Sandwich system

This is one of the modern ways of finishing. This finish consists of 2 sheets of metal between which there is a pressed insulation and a vapor barrier membrane.

The main advantages of these facade panels are:

• Soundproofing.
• Resistance to jumps in ambient temperature.
• Protection against precipitation and mechanical damage.
• Inertness to biological effects.

Installation of facade panels is carried out on the frame in an open or hidden way. To begin with, a starting profile is attached, where the elements of the first row will be placed. Joints are treated with sealant. The corners are closed with special external and internal profiles.

Thermal panels

This material for exterior decoration solves 2 questions at once:

1. What to insulate?
2. How to update the facade?

Front panels consist of a heater and facing material. They are securely fastened to each other. A house finished in this way retains heat, lets steam out, and does not feel the effects of the external environment. The decorative layer can be an imitation of brick or masonry, in different colors.

The installation technology differs from the previous two options. In this case, a special adhesive is used. The panels are fixed directly on the pre-prepared wall of the house. Begin installation from the bottom corner of the house. For reliable fixation of each row, take small breaks of 20-30 minutes.

The adhesive is applied to the panel with a notched trowel. The element is mounted to the wall and after 2 minutes they come off. After waiting another 2 minutes, it is glued back. If the facade panel adhered well, it means that no mistakes were made in the technologies for mixing the solution and applying it to the slab.

Siding

1. Metal - used for finishing small private houses or garages.
2. Vinyl - has a wider application.

PVC siding is the most affordable option for facade decoration. It is lightweight, reliable, well protects the main structure from weathering. But with this material you need to be careful. During the installation of facade panels, the fasteners are not tightened much, leaving a small gap.

This is necessary so that the material can move freely under the influence of temperature. Otherwise, the element may be deformed and ruin the entire cladding.

Installation steps

Before you independently decorate the house with facade panels, you need to read the instructions and do everything without missing a single step.

• Training. Clean the walls of the old cladding, remove all fasteners, shades and other protruding parts. Inspect the base for dirt, traces of fungus and mold. Repair cracks and holes.
• Treat the surface with a deep penetration primer.
• Cover the walls with vapor barrier film. Protects the insulation from excess moisture.
• Install the frame for the ventilated facade.
• Install heater.
• Protect the insulation material with a waterproofing membrane.
• Install front panels.

If all the steps are done correctly in the exact order, then the lining will last for many years and will delight the eyes of both the owner and passers-by.

Ventilated facade

Facade panels should be fastened according to the principle of a ventilated facade. To do this, directly on the wall of the house, they mount a frame made of wooden beams or a metal profile. Professionals recommend using the second option. The metal is more resistant to aggressive environments and is able to withstand heavy loads.

The tree, in turn, must be treated with protective agents to extend its life. When installing, be sure to make sure that the lower sections do not touch the ground, otherwise they will absorb moisture from the ground and quickly become unusable.

The crate is created from vertical and horizontal guides. First, the vertical parts are installed. 10-15 cm recede from the corners of the wall and attach the first elements. Each subsequent detail is placed after 40-50 cm. It all depends on the width of the insulation and the dimensions of the panels to be installed. Then they deal with horizontal guides.

Be sure to monitor how smoothly the profiles are attached. To do this, use the building level and plumb line. When all the details are securely fixed, you can start laying the insulation material.

If the owner is afraid to install facade panels himself, then it is better to use the services of a professional team. They know how to do everything right and in the shortest possible time.

Installation of Docke-R facade panels for country houses is impeccable quality at a reasonable price. The Docke-R is manufactured in Germany by Döcke Extrusion, one of the largest manufacturers of PVC siding and gutters.

Docke-R are created taking into account the most modern technologies, all products are certified. High quality and reliability are confirmed by the experience of using products in Europe and Russia.

Photo of a building lined with deck

Advantage Features

They are made from polymers by injection molding. They perfectly imitate a wide variety of surface textures - video materials presented on the Internet allow you to navigate the proposed variety.

The following types of finishes are made: under brick, under stone, under sandstone, under slate, etc.

They differ in many advantages that distinguish this material from the background of analogues presented on the domestic market:

Features of installation work

Installation instructions for facade panels:

• For sawing products and battens, you will need a hacksaw (you can use a saw with fine teeth), a grinder, an electric jigsaw, metal shears, a cutter knife.
• For marking you need: tape measure, level, plumb line, pencil, square, coated cord.
• For installation work, you will need a screwdriver and a screwdriver.

Surface preparation, lathing

Works are carried out at any time of the year at a temperature not lower than -15 0 C. A wooden or galvanized crate is used, the pitch of which is determined by the size of the panels. The crate is installed vertically (under vertical attachment points and corners) and horizontally (under horizontal attachment points, under the starting and J-profile).

Installation rules

Since Docke-Rs expand and contract with temperature changes, there are certain rules that must be followed to ensure a reliable installation.

• Self-tapping screws should be screwed in the center of the hole strictly horizontally
• Between the surface and the head of the self-tapping screw, you need to leave a small gap (up to 1 mm)
• Products are inserted into each other until it stops - thus providing a thermal gap.

Installation of starting bars

Using the water level, the basement of the building is measured along the perimeter “to the horizon”.

If the foundation is perfectly aligned, “starting corner strips” are installed in the corners of the house. Between them (for installing basement panels) - “starting strips” are mounted on a horizontal level.

If the foundation is uneven, a blind area is made with a slight slope (parallel to the horizontal line measured earlier). Starting profiles are mounted (they are not used if the slope is too great). With a large slope, the height of the second row of panels is determined.

And from this level the required size is measured, the lower parts of the profile are cut to the required size. Front plates are mounted by fastening in vertical lateral and horizontal top openings. You can make additional holes (in the places of the "seam").

Attention! It is impossible to screw in self-tapping screws outside the nail holes (directly in the panel) - this can lead to irreversible deformations of the material.

Installation of the universal J-profile

It is used for lining the inner corner, as an edging profile.

Important! For the effect of the natural look of stone (brick) masonry, each subsequent row is shifted by one brick (or by an arbitrary amount.)

Corner mounting

The corners are set on the starting strips and fastened with self-tapping screws in the upper part (self-tapping screws up to 50 mm long are used). It is important that the corner cover 15 mm of the front plate, the distance to the inner edge of the corner is 12 mm. The corners are mounted sequentially - after the installation of each row.

Facade slabs Deke - modern, high-quality, outwardly respectable. With proper installation, such a facade will delight you and your loved ones for many years!

One of the most practical ways to finish the facade is paneling. Their main advantage is ease of installation, which means that everyone can perform finishing work. Facade panels perfectly protect the walls from wind and rain, contribute to the preservation of heat in the house, and at the same time have a very attractive aesthetic appearance.

Now on sale there are a lot of facing panels and plates from a variety of materials. Siding is very popular, the demand for polymer, fiber cement and porcelain stoneware slabs is growing. There are even options made of wood, with enhanced protective properties.

Facade cladding technology with siding

The most popular finishing material for facades is siding. It is lightweight, conveniently fastened thanks to the locking system, does not require special skills and equipment.

The cladding process consists of four stages: preparing the walls, installing the battens, insulating the facade and fixing the panels themselves. For unheated buildings, insulation is not used. The durability of the coating and the appearance of the facade depend on the quality of surface preparation.

All work can be done independently in 2-4 days, depending on the area of ​​​​the walls. But first you need to correctly calculate the amount of material, so as not to overpay too much, and in the process of work not to be interrupted to purchase the missing material.

Prices for different types of siding

We calculate the amount of material

So, for calculations, you will need a schematic drawing of the building with all the main parameters - the height, width and length of the building, the dimensions of the openings (window / door). After taking measurements, you should determine the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheathed surfaces: for this, first calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach wall separately and sum up the resulting figures. Then take away the total area of ​​windows and doors.

For example, you need to clad a bath 3x4 m, 2.5 m high, with two windows 0.6x0.9 m and a door 0.7x1.8 m. The area of ​​​​the side wall is equal to

• 3x2.5= 7.5 m2,
• facade area - 4x2.5 = 10 m2.

Total wall area:

• 7.5 + 7.5 + 10 + 10 = 35 m2.

Now, in the same way, we calculate the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors:

• 0.6x0.9 = 0.54 m2 (window);
• 0.7x1.8 = 2.5 m2 (door);
• 0.54x2 + 2.5 \u003d 3.58 m2 - the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bopenings.

Subtract the second value from the first value and get the size of the working area:

• 35 - 3.58 = 31.42 m2.

Now it remains to divide the resulting value by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel. Usually it is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, next to other siding parameters.

Siding - dimensions

For example, let's take Block House vinyl siding: its width is 0.232 m, length is 3.66 m, area is 0.85 m2. We divide 31.42 by 0.85 and get the number of panels - 37 pieces. Since waste is inevitable in the process of work, the material must be taken with a margin - 7-10%. There are 10 panels in a pack, so for cladding you need to buy 4 packs of siding, and the extra three panels will just be that supply.

The starting profile, which is used to fasten the lower tier of panels, is measured in running meters, so for calculations it is enough to know the length of the perimeter of the bath. In our case, this is 14 m (3+3+4+4). Since the profile is overlapped, you need to add another 0.5-0.7 m to the length of the docking sections and 30-40 cm to the waste when fitting.

Corner profiles are also measured in linear meters, and usually have a length of 3 m. For complex buildings, two types of profiles are needed - for external and internal corners. To calculate the number of elements, the height of the building should be multiplied by the number of corners and divided by three. For example, if a bath with a height of 2.5 has a rectangular shape, then the total length of the corner profiles is 10 m. Dividing by the length of one profile, we get 3.3, that is, you will need 3 whole profiles and a piece 30 cm long. This means you need purchase 4 profiles for external corners. Elements for internal corners are calculated separately according to the same principle.

To join the panels, you will need H-shaped and T-shaped connecting profiles.

They are produced in lengths of 3 m, calculated individually. Since the length of the siding does not exceed 3.8 m, it is not difficult to determine the junction of the panels. Mark these sections on the diagram and calculate how many profiles you need to connect along the entire height of the facade.

Finishing strips are mounted horizontally above and below window openings, so it will not be difficult to calculate their number, as well as the number of window and door trims. The dimensions of these elements are necessarily indicated in the price lists and catalogs of the manufacturer, and it will not be difficult to select the necessary components for the panels if there are measurements of the building.

For convenience, you can use an online calculator, this will provide more accurate calculations and save time.

Surface preparation

The wall under the cladding must be strong, without cracks and breaks. Any defects reduce the strength and durability of the skin, and therefore preliminary surface preparation is very important. First, remove the trim from windows and doors, then remove everything that protrudes beyond the plane of the wall - decorative elements, lighting fixtures.

Carefully inspect the walls, basement, corners, sweep the lower part of the building around the entire perimeter with a broom. Sometimes small cracks and chips can hide under a layer of dust and dirt on the base. Peeling plaster must be scraped off with a spatula so that it does not interfere with the snug fit of the crate. Large cracks are embroidered along the length and sealed with a cement solution, small ones are simply overwritten with the same solution.

If the walls are wooden, be sure to check the integrity of the logs, especially the lower rows. It is recommended to caulk dried crowns, treat the tree with an antiseptic. Rotten areas need to be replaced, because the fungus will develop under the skin, damaging an increasing area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall. If the wood is in good condition, simply prime the entire surface.

Wooden house processing technology | Home treatment with antiseptic

Crate. Installation instructions

The crate for fastening siding panels can be made of metal or wood. In the first case, it is recommended to use a galvanized profile SD-60, in the second - a dry bar 30x40 mm or 50x60 mm. To fasten the frame elements, you will additionally need metal U-shaped hangers, self-tapping screws and dowels (if the walls are concrete or brick).

First you need to determine how the panels will be located - horizontally or vertically. The location of the profiles depends on this: they must be perpendicular to the siding panels. That is, with horizontal sheathing, we fasten the frame profile vertically on the walls, and vice versa. For example, consider the horizontal skin.

Prices for galvanized profile

galvanized profile

Step 1. Make markings on the walls: step back from the corner 5-7 cm and draw a vertical line along the entire height of the wall. Then they retreat 40 cm and again draw a vertical, and so on until the end of the wall. The extreme line should be at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the corner. The rest of the walls are marked in the same way.

Step 2 Perforated hangers are screwed to the wall along the marked lines, which are also used for plasterboard profiles. The perforated elements must be fixed in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 40 cm. Hangers are screwed to a wooden wall with self-tapping screws, to a concrete / brick wall - with dowels, having previously laid a paronite gasket in the space between the hanger and the wall. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Step 3 Now you need to lay the insulation. Mineral wool slabs 50 mm thick are perfect for this. The first layer is tightly laid between the racks of the frame, the second is fixed over the profiles. Plates are fixed to the wall with dowels-fungi. The ears of the suspensions must be passed through the insulation, cutting small holes in the plates. Thermal insulation must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the building.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Step 4 A windproof membrane is pulled over the thermal insulation, through which the protruding edges of the suspensions are also threaded. The membrane is fastened with an overlap, at the joints it is fixed with construction tape.

Step 5 Control grid. A horizontal narrow profile is fixed along the bottom of the wall, along the base, and along the top, into which the ends of the vertical racks of the frame will be inserted. Both profiles must be strictly in the same plane. Further, at the corners of the wall, extreme profiles are attached to the suspensions, screwed with self-tapping screws. A cord is pulled between the profiles to align the plane of the future frame. After that, all other vertical profiles are screwed, horizontal jumpers are installed in the upper and lower parts of the window opening. At the junction of the planks, the frame is also strengthened with horizontal jumpers with a vertical step of 40 cm.

Step 6 The racks of the crate at the corners need to be connected to each other: for this, they take a segment of the same profile, cut it into pieces 15-25 cm long, bend them in the middle at a right angle, and then apply an overlap to the corner posts of the frame and fix with self-tapping screws. The distance between the fasteners is 40 cm. Thus, all corners of the crate are strengthened.

The installation of a wooden crate is carried out in almost the same way: the timber is cut along the height of the wall, markings are made for attaching the brackets. Next, the bars are set according to the level and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-60 cm. The insulation is inserted between the cells of the crate. If you do not plan to use a heater, the beam can be fixed not to the brackets, but directly to the wall, leveling the frame using mounting wedges.

Video - Mounting the frame for siding

Facade cladding with siding

When the crate is ready, you can proceed with the installation of panels. You need to start with the installation of starting strips, corner elements and framing details for openings.

Step 1. The lowest point of the wall is determined and the horizon is set with the help of a water level, marking with a pencil in each corner of the building. Next, measure the width of the starting bar and note this distance from the bottom point of the corner up. To simplify the markup, you can drive a nail in one of the corners at the desired height and tie it with a strong thread. Going to the next corner, they align the level horizontally, drive in a nail again and pull the thread. As a result, a nail will be driven in in each corner, and a thread will be pulled along the perimeter at the desired level.

Step 2 The starting bar is applied to the marking with the upper edge and fixed with self-tapping screws every 35-40 cm. The ends of adjacent bars are fixed at a distance of 5 mm from each other, this is a prerequisite for high-quality installation.

The starting bar is mounted around the entire perimeter of the sheathed surface. When its installation is completed, you can attach the corner elements.

Step 3 The corner profile must be located strictly vertically. Its lower edge is lowered 8 mm below the starting bar, the upper cut is 6 mm below the eaves. Screw it with self-tapping screws on both sides of the corner, in increments of 40 cm.

Step 4 Next, they begin to finish the openings: around the perimeter of the windows, the starting strips are screwed so that their corners do not touch. Each platband is cut along the edges at an angle of 45 degrees, and installed on top of the starting bar. The sections are combined with each other, leaving a smooth, neat joint without gaps. In the same way, make out the doorway.

Step 5 Now you can put the facing panels. Start from the bottom - from the starting bar. The panel is applied to the wall, the lower edge is inserted into the bar and the horizontal is checked with a level. If the first panel lies unevenly, all subsequent cladding will also be skewed, and it will not work to align it during installation. After making sure that the panel is positioned correctly, screw the screws into the holes and install the next element. The ends of the facing strips lead into the corner profiles or between the corner and H-shaped profile.

The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 40 cm, after installation, each part must be moved from side to side. If the panel moves with difficulty or does not move at all, the fasteners should be loosened. Too tight connection contributes to the deformation of the web and the formation of a wavy surface.

Step 6 Before laying the top row, you need to fix the finishing bar.

It is located at the very top of the wall horizontally, fixed, like other elements, with self-tapping screws. Next, measure the remaining space between the panel and the plank, and cut the siding for the top row according to the measurements. The cut edge is brought under the fold of the plank after fastening with the penultimate row.

The final siding sheet is cut to size and fastened without self-tapping screws - from below to the lock behind the previous panel, from above it is inserted into the finishing bar

Pediment sheathing

Very often, when facing the facade, they sheathe siding and the pediment. So the structure looks more neat and aesthetically pleasing. The process of sheathing is quite simple, although you have to work at height. Before starting work, install reliable strong scaffolding to protect yourself from falling.

Step 1. Using a level, mark up a triangular-shaped frame. Next, two guide strips are attached to the sides along the roof overhang, a vertical profile is screwed on the sides of the doorway in the attic.

Step 2 The opening is reinforced with horizontal lintels in the upper and lower parts. The profile is cut along the height of the pediment and attached to the base with suspensions in increments of 40 cm. In the lower part, the profiles are reinforced with a horizontal bar. All elements of the crate should be located in the same plane.

Step 3 An ebb for the pediment is installed on the press washers, the sheets of metal are overlapped by 10-15 cm. Then the starting slats in the doorway and the slats above the tide are screwed.

Step 4 Siding panels are cut so that on one side the cut is transverse, and on the other at an angle. Since the pediment has a triangular shape, the ends of the panels must correspond to it. The panels are fixed in the manner described above, trying to accurately align the seams on both sides of the doorway. At the edges, be sure to leave gaps between the elements for expansion.

Step 5 After fixing the siding panels, the roof overhangs are hemmed on both sides and the eaves. Here the panels are located not along, but across, so the skin looks more attractive.

The cuts on the edges are closed with wind strips, which are superimposed on the roofing on one side and fastened with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Video - Gable sheathing (part 1)

Video - Gable sheathing (part 2)

On this, the facade cladding is considered complete. Properly performed installation will provide such a sheathing with durability and aesthetic appearance, as well as additional protection for the walls of the house. It is not difficult to take care of the siding: dust and any dirt can be easily washed off with ordinary water. Other types of facade panels are mounted in a similar way: the surface is prepared, a metal or wooden frame is installed, and the sheathing is attached. Of course, each material has its own characteristics, so you should first study all the nuances of the lining in order to avoid annoying mistakes in the work.

Video - Cladding the facade with panels