How to cut down a house from timber. House made of timber - we build a warm and beautiful home ourselves. Construction of ceiling and roof

Everyone dreams of their own own home. However, often, buying already ready house, you can purchase several unpleasant “surprises” bundled with it, and it’s already difficult to remake it to your liking.

It’s a completely different matter when a house is built from the very beginning to the end independently according to a personal project. The construction of a bathhouse from timber with your own hands is carried out in stages in the same way as at home, so you can consider it in the general case for these two buildings.

Construction stages

The entire process of building a bathhouse or house from timber or logs consists of several successive stages:

• project preparation;
• preparation of terrain, materials and tools;
• construction of the foundation;
• construction of the floor;
• walling;
• floor and roof installation;
• windows, doors;
• internal and external finishing.

Project preparation, preparation of terrain and materials

We can safely say that preparation is not subject to any standards. In this matter, everyone is their own boss, so there is no need to talk about any technology or rules.

As for materials and tools, it’s the other way around, everything is standard. For each hotel point necessary materials will be considered separately. The same applies to tools.

A house made of timber is being built with your own hands in stages on a flat and prepared site. But it is necessary not only to level the site, but also to remove all unnecessary things.

In rare cases, preparation includes a very labor-intensive process - replacing the soil layer. This is only necessary in cases where the soil has a very low resistance coefficient.

Construction of the foundation

There are currently three known types of foundations:

• columnar;
• tape;
• slab.

For a private house, a strip foundation is best suited.

It is more labor-intensive and expensive, but it has its advantages:

• has a huge bearing capacity, which allows you to avoid making the corresponding calculations;
• quite simple in its implementation;

These two advantages eliminate many of the difficulties that columnar foundation.

We will consider the technology of constructing a strip foundation.

To calculate materials for strip foundations, you can use the calculator:

To do this you will need the following tool:

• shovel:
• hammer;
• wood hacksaw;
• a welding machine or a crochet hook for steel wire, or a special machine for knitting;
• containers for mixing cement mortar, as well as containers for clean water.

1. So, it all starts with marking the terrain. You can do it using a rope and pegs, or simply by drawing lines on the ground. You can check the correctness of the markings using a tape measure.
2. You just need to measure both diagonals in the rectangle - they should be the same. This will mean that the foundation is level.

1. Next you need to dig a pit. He digs to the depth of laying the foundation, plus another 20-30 cm. The width should be 5-7 cm more than necessary.
2. It must be said that if you plan not to arrange formwork for the foundation, then the width of the pit can be the same as the width of the casting part of the foundation itself.

Advice!
If you are building a bathhouse from timber with your own hands in stages, then you can not make formwork for the foundation, since it is being erected with the aim of giving the tape an even shape, and in in this case this is not required.

1. Only in the case when the tape rises above the ground is it simply impossible to do without formwork.
2. So, the casting part of the foundation must have a width that will allow you to easily lay a beam or log on it. Often only 15 cm is enough for this, but such a foundation can simply crack.
3. The minimum width of the casting part should be 25-30 cm.
4. After the trench is dug, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured onto its bottom. The thickness of the layer is about 10-15 cm. Then the same layer of sand is poured. In this case, this layer is carefully compacted. Sand can be compacted using water.
5. Then you can pour the foundation. For a bathhouse, part of the trench can be filled with construction scrap, that is, pieces of broken slate, broken brick, glass, and so on. Every 30-40 cm of such a layer is shed with a liquid solution.

1. The last approximately 50 cm is filled with clean concrete.
2. If the foundation is being built for a house, then it is better not only to make it entirely from monolithic concrete, but also to reinforce. For reinforcement, steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is used. Belts are made from wire, and the frame is made from belts.

Concrete is prepared according to the following proportions:

• 1 part cement;
• 3 parts sand;
• 2 parts crushed stone or gravel;
• water.

This ratio is only suitable for cement grade M500 and higher.

If the formwork was not erected, then after the trench is completely filled, it should be allowed to dry. This may take from several days to 2-3 weeks.

After this, in any case, it is necessary to build a base. It can be made from red brick.

You can easily make even laying with your own hands using a plumb line or a water level.

After the foundation has completely dried, a layer of waterproofing is placed on top. It can be represented by a layer of roofing felt.

If formwork was erected, it is removed only after 3-4 days in normal weather, but the foundation should not yet be exposed, since it will not have time to gain the required percentage of strength.

Construction of the floor

For this work you will need the following materials:

• timber with a section of 100 by 50 mm;
• board with a thickness of about 25 mm;
• wood screws;
• dowel for beams;
• tow or moss.

It all begins with the erection of the first crown.

Advice!
The first crown must be laid as evenly as possible, since it is along it that all subsequent crowns will be laid.
In addition, the first crown needs to be impregnated with an antiseptic, since it is most susceptible to moisture from the soil.

The beams for the walls should have a section of 150 by 150 mm. For joists and internal walls - 100 by 50 mm.

To make a junction of beams, that is, a log, you can use two methods of attaching logs:

• half a log;
• "dovetail" or "frying pan".

Fastening in the second way involves coupling in such a way that both beams are in one horizontal plane.

This type of connection is shown in the following photo.

Frying pan connection

This method is the most optimal, although more labor-intensive. To connect two beams together, you can use the “tenon” method. To do this, a tenon is cut out at the end of one beam, and a groove of the same size is cut out at the end of the second beam.

Since sometimes the length of the log is quite large, pillars need to be erected under it. They can be made from bricks and mortar.

It is worth saying that it is better to lay beams for lags on the edge. The logs should be placed in increments of 40 to 100 cm, depending on the expected load.

After laying the logs, subfloor boards are placed on them. You can make a sheathing on the bottom of the joists, and lay a heat insulator on it. For the subfloor, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are used.

Afterwards, you can immediately lay on this subfloor fine coating, for example, tongue and groove boards 28 by 36 mm.

Walling

Step-by-step construction of a house made of timber with your own hands, the next step involves the construction of walls. This is done by sequentially erecting crowns of timber.

All beams can be fastened at the corners using the “half-log” or “tenon” method, which was discussed a little higher.

It is worth saying a little about profiled timber. It differs from the usual one in that it has ready-made grooves. Therefore, the stages of building a house from profiled timber, and specifically the process of erecting walls, are slightly different from the same work from ordinary timber.

The difference is that ordinary timber needs to be fastened every 2-3 crowns. This is done using . For them, a hole is drilled in the beams, which passes through several beams, for example, through two. A dowel is driven into this hole, which can be either wooden or metal.

The rest of the construction stages timber house made from profiled and ordinary timber is no different.

As for the internal walls, they should be erected simultaneously with the construction of the main walls.

Each subsequent crown should be placed on a layer of moss or tow.

Ceiling and roof

The ceiling is made from the same materials as the floor, that is, 100 by 50 mm beams are used as beams. Beams are laid in the same way as joists.

They are hemmed from the bottom and top. Placed on the boards of the lower cladding vapor barrier film, and a heat insulator is placed on top. The top of the beams can also be sheathed with boards.

The rafter system is also made from timber 100 by 50 mm. Rafters are installed at the same frequency as beams. The rafters must be attached to the beams.

The top of the rafter system is sheathed with boards that will serve as sheathing. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and roofing material is placed on top.

All photos from the article

We invite you to consider a step-by-step guide on how to build a house from timber with one or another type of foundation and a gable roof. It should be said right away that we will not go into the smallest details, since this material is intended for a reader who knows how to hold any instrument in his hands. All this is discussed below in the text, and you will also see a thematic video in this article.

Construction stages

Note. Don’t forget that the longest timber is only 6m long, and if you are planning, for example, a 7x8m house, then you will have to join the rows, which complicates installation.

Types of foundations used for wooden houses

Construction method:

• the pillar itself is usually made of brick or concrete blocks, 40-50 cm high, which mainly depends on whether there is a slope in a given area;
• a hole is made for masonry, 20-25 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide, a sand cushion is poured there, and then poured concrete mortar. With this pillow you can adjust the height of the pillar - simply by adding or removing a certain amount of concrete mixture;
• the distance between support points should be no more than 2m, besides, they should be at every corner and at every junction.

Construction method:

• regarding the location of the support points, the instructions here are the same as in the case of a columnar foundation - a distance of at least 2 m, plus supports at each corner and at each connection;
• to build such a foundation, take metal or asbestos-cement pipes of at least 20 cm in diameter and dig it into the ground 40-50 cm, thus obtaining a casing pipe;
• the pipe is then filled with concrete and reinforced, although this is not a necessary condition for steel elements.

Construction method:

• if the construction of a timber house with your own hands is done on a pile-screw foundation, then the quantity screw piles will be exactly the same as the number of cast-in-place piles or pillars;
• such a pile is simply screwed into the ground using a lever to any depth, although you still have to cut off the excess afterwards;
• such a foundation is very convenient for areas with a large slope - the pipe simply compensates for it.

Construction method:

• strip foundations can be monolithic, that is, poured into a trench or formwork with reinforcement cage, or prefabricated - assembled from brick, stone or blocks;
• the depth of the tape depends on the condition of the soil and the weight of the superstructure - they can be recessed or shallow;
• recessed foundations are used on heaving soils, and it should be 40-50 cm below the freezing point of the soil;
• such foundations are considered the best for buildings of any type, although this is not always advisable, since you can get by with cheaper versions.

A little about the timber

The beam has not only a different cross-section and length, but also in the type of profile - it can be profiled (have grooves for longitudinal connections). The percentage of subsidence of an architectural structure will depend on humidity - it can be wet or dried.

This material also differs in the type of production - it is made from solid wood or glued together from lamellas (the price varies greatly). Profiles can be made from different breeds wood, where Siberian larch is considered the most valuable, followed by Ural spruce.

All these nuances must be taken into account when designing a house. The fact is that joining into a smooth fugue requires a sealing gasket (jute or linen tape) and dowels for fixation.

In addition, it is very important to provide channels for communications, such as water supply, sewerage, heating, electrification and communications. It is advisable that all “wet” rooms such as a bathroom, toilet, kitchen are nearby - this will make it easier to insert channels.

Construction of the box

It all starts with the installation of the piping, which is installed on any type of foundation, having previously laid a cut-off waterproofing layer. When we build a house out of timber with our own hands, it is the lower crown that bears the greatest moisture load.

That is why a wedding board made of larch 50 mm thick can be additionally placed under it. Either the board or the lower crown must be impregnated with an antiseptic, which increases its service life by an order of magnitude.

But let's figure out what benefits a wedding board brings? Sooner or later, the bottom will rot and no preparations used to treat wood will help with this. But replacing a board is much easier and cheaper than replacing the entire crown!

When choosing technology and material for building a house, many owners prefer houses made of timber. This decision is due to several positive aspects, including the ability to independently carry out all the necessary work. Let's consider how to build houses from timber with your own hands so that the end result is a beautiful and reliable building.

Choosing the right one quality wood– the first and one of the most important aspects that determines the success of construction. And since wood, like any other material, has its own characteristics and advantages, it is worth taking a responsible approach to its selection and purchase.

The first characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing wood are its density and strength. For various breeds wood, this indicator is different and there are even some that are in no way inferior to metal. Therefore, during the selection process, it is important to pay attention to this, since even a small house made of timber must be built in such a way as to withstand heavy loads without problems.

Here are the basic requirements that must be met nice house from timber:

• walls must be strong, reliable and durable;
• the level of heat and noise insulation must be sufficiently high;
• the project must be designed in such a way that loads do not provoke subsidence and deformation of the walls.

If you decide to build a house from timber, then achieving these indicators is more than realistic. And, nevertheless, you still have to put up with some of the shortcomings of wood. For example, timber has an extremely low level of fire safety. In addition, it tends to react negatively to precipitation, partially deforming as a result of its impact.

Important! The process of sedimentary deformation is especially relevant for the first few years of operation of the house. In the future, if this is observed, it will be to a much lesser extent.

It is best to build a house from timber from coniferous species trees. Thus, you will receive several advantages at once: the service life of such timber is quite long, while it is extremely resistant to rotting processes, has a low weight, which has a positive effect on the foundation and does not crack over time.

Thus, choosing a suitable material is no less important than compliance with the prescribed construction technology. During the purchasing process, you should pay attention to the quality of the purchased wood, choosing only the best material that can last for many years.

Do-it-yourself timber house: which is better, solid, glued or profiled timber?

There are two types of timber: solid and profiled. Both options are used for building houses, but in order to make a choice in favor of the most suitable option, it is worth considering the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Construction of a wooden house from profiled timber: advantages and disadvantages

If profiled timber is used for construction, a profile will be required. In this case, these could be tenons or crown grooves. With their help, the timber is fastened along its entire length, after which it is polished. Typically, timber for construction is sold in full. finished form, so the owner can only assemble the structure from the provided elements. Here are the advantages of such a solution:

• The resistance to deformation of such buildings is extremely high;
• With this technology, costs are significantly reduced;

• the technology for building such a house is somewhat simpler than in all other cases;
• the surface of the walls is smooth, which eliminates the need for additional sheathing;
• Rain and melt water will not collect inside the walls, so the level of protection against rot can also be called quite high.

Important! In the process of producing high-quality profiled timber, certain calculations are made that help prevent precipitation from getting into the crown joints.

Clear and beautiful shape material allows you to quickly and efficiently carry out all the necessary construction work. In addition, such houses are characterized by a high level of thermal insulation and have an attractive appearance.

Once the profiled house is settled, there is no need to waste time and effort caulking the walls. The natural wind protection of the walls of such a house will be quite sufficient, and the thermal insulation is also quite decent due to the high density of the crown joints.

Of course, like any other material, profiled timber also has its drawbacks. For example, any weathering he doesn't tolerate it well. In addition, the material ignites extremely easily and actively supports combustion. In order to somehow reduce these negative factors, the wood must be treated with a special protective impregnation.

Important! Due to the influence of natural atmospheric humidity in warm time timber cracks quite often. Therefore, it is worthwhile to look for a material whose humidity was initially reduced to no less than 20%. They do this by resorting to chamber drying technology.

Another important aspect– the thickness of walls made of profiled timber is not enough for comfortable stay in the rather harsh climate of our country. Therefore, it is best to resort to additional external insulation.

Construction of a wooden house from timber: advantages of using solid timber

Of course, it is worth paying attention to the construction of houses from solid timber. Despite the fact that its appearance is significantly inferior to the first option, it is used quite widely in construction and has some advantages. One of the main ones is cost. Another important factor is that during the preparation of wood, its natural moisture content is preserved, which significantly reduces the duration of the preparatory stage and eliminates the need for a number of additional measures.

Buying solid timber is somewhat easier than any other type, since the production of this material takes significantly less time. Moreover, in order to build quality house made of timber does not require the use of special equipment.

But this solution also has its drawbacks:

• wall surfaces will definitely require serious finishing work, which will increase costs. Most often, such houses are sheathed with siding or clapboard;
• there is still a danger of acquiring low-quality material due to inexperience;

• solid timber is susceptible to fungus, since no special drying procedure is provided. This can be partly solved with the help of special impregnations, but this will also entail costs;
• Due to the roof joints, such a house is blown quite heavily. Therefore, you will have to think about high-quality thermal insulation in any case;
• Very often, after shrinkage, cracks appear in the wood.

Features of building houses from laminated veneer lumber

Turnkey houses made of laminated veneer lumber are not uncommon today. This wood product is very actively used in construction and is quite suitable for independent implementation of the project. One of the main advantages of this solution is that the frame of the house is built quite quickly. The walls are extremely durable and can withstand heavy loads.

Thanks to a special production technology, you don’t have to worry that the laminated timber will crack or deform under the weight of the roof, due to the fact that the fibers of the lamellas are directed towards different sides. Glued laminated timber can be called environmentally friendly pure material. True, there is one subtlety here - during production, it is important how high-quality the adhesive composition was used, since it is its components that can have negative impact on the health of people living in the house. That is why the price of a house made of laminated veneer lumber should not be too low.

Glued laminated timber resists fire better than all other similar materials. For such a house to catch fire, it will take approximately 10 minutes of continuous exposure. open fire. This type of timber is also resistant to rotting and mold.

Interesting! Insects do not live in walls made of glued beams, since each part is thoroughly dried and held together very tightly. For the same reason it does not get inside rainwater and snow.

The main stages and important nuances of building a house. Budget projects based on various materials and the right ways to save.

Taking into account the price of building houses from laminated veneer lumber, before starting construction it is useful to pay attention to what the owners of such buildings say, because only they can provide the most truthful information about the quality and practicality of using such houses.

“We contacted a company that builds houses from laminated veneer lumber on a turnkey basis. The construction itself took approximately 1.5 months. This is our second year living here and we have already survived one winter. I can say that the house is very comfortable. The heat is retained well, and there are no problems with the wind blowing.”

Vyacheslav, Yaroslavl

“It’s not surprising that the cost of a house made of laminated veneer lumber is the highest. While I was studying the options, I read many times that this is the most best option. That's why I built one for myself. In general, wooden houses made of laminated veneer lumber are like good designer“: it’s extremely easy to work, pleasant and everything is very fast.”

Yuri, Krasnodar

Wooden houses made of timber: preparation for independent construction

Having decided which type of timber is most suitable for building your home, you can move on to preparatory work and procurement of materials. The easiest way is to order timber required size. Then all that remains to be done is to put it in a box according to the instructions from the manufacturer.

During the preparation process, be sure to ensure that the wood used is of the proper quality. When large cracks are detected (especially through ones), the element in mandatory must be replaced. It is also necessary to inspect for traces of insects. In addition, we should not forget about the importance of treating the material with antiseptic agents.

In order to carry out all the necessary work on constructing a structure yourself, you will need a set of tools, which must include:

• electric or gasoline saw;
• building level;
• electric drill;
• measuring tape;
• perforator;
• axe;
• hammer;
• electric screwdriver;
• nails, screws and other fasteners.

It is equally important to have a drawing of a house made of timber. In the process of compilation detailed plan all necessary calculations must be carried out. And although all this can be done independently, many prefer to turn to specialists to eliminate the risk of an error that could lead to serious consequences.

On what foundation should you build a house made of timber: rules for choosing

Having prepared all the necessary drawings and materials, you can begin laying the foundation of the future house. And in order to choose the most suitable type of foundation in a particular case, it is worth taking into account the following factors:

• characteristics of the soil available on the site;
• calculations that allow you to determine the expected load on the foundation;
• other design features of the house.

Both wooden and concrete foundations can be used as a base. Moreover, they often resort to the second option, laying it on top brick plinth, and then laying out the walls from timber on top. Although a wooden base is also quite acceptable.

The construction of a timber house can be carried out on a columnar foundation, as well as on a strip foundation. They also resort to buried and to shallow foundation. But given the small final weight of the structure, usually the base is not made too large. Most often, 50-70 cm is enough for the house to stand securely.

How to build one-story houses from timber: step-by-step instructions for building walls

Building a house from timber with your own hands without construction experience is actually not such a bad idea as it might seem at first glance. It is quite possible to do the installation yourself, especially if you decide on the assembly technology in advance. The walls themselves are laid out in rows, simply laying the next layer on top of the previous one until the wall reaches the desired size.

The fit of the logs to each other is ensured by special grooves. But these places must be additionally insulated to prevent heat loss. And in order to increase the strength of the walls, it is recommended to additionally fasten the beams together using special spikes.

There will be a minimum amount of hassle if you use untreated pine timber, since due to its low weight, laying out can be done manually, without using special equipment for this.

When erecting timber walls yourself, it is worth remembering two basic rules:

• all seams must be caulked to reduce the wind flow of the walls;
• After the walls are laid, they must be opened with a special compound that will give them additional strength and fire resistance.

Otherwise, anyone can build one-story houses made of timber: glued, solid or profiled. A simple but effective technology will make the structure durable and reliable.

How to build a house from timber: features of roof and floor installation

In an attempt to save money on building a house from timber, many make the common mistake of not paying due attention to the quality of the roof. Cheap materials, such as ondulin, are often used for it. It is categorically not recommended to do this, since the roof is, first of all, safety.

Depending on the capabilities, as well as the individual preferences of the developer, the roof can have the most different kind. It depends on the type of roofing and rafter system. But in any case, each section should be equipped using boards of different sizes, for example, if elements of 150x40 mm were chosen for the rafters, then 100x40 mm should be taken for the racks and braces.

As for the features of floor arrangement, the main factor here is the choice of the home owners. The main thing is to take care of the proper level of heat and waterproofing so that the coating does not soon become unusable. The same applies to ceiling installation.

Important! If the house has a basement or basement, it is worth paying attention to the issue of waterproofing it. In this case, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material before leveling or pouring the screed.

In order to ensure the proper level of waterproofing in wooden house, you can use the following materials:

• waterproofing in rolls;
• coating materials;
• filling systems;
• penetrating moisture protection.

Of course, houses made of timber are for permanent residence require investment, but it is better to immediately take care of the availability quality basis and roofs, so that in the future you will not have to correct the consequences of mistakes made. The same applies to all materials for thermal and waterproofing.

Features of finishing a house made of timber: photo examples

Having understood the features of the technology for constructing houses from timber, it is worth paying attention to some nuances finishing. First of all, work is carried out on the installation of interior partitions, windows and doors. After this, the subfloor, insulation and finishing coat. Be sure to finish the ceiling.

Important! All work on laying communications (water supply, energy supply and heating) must be completed before the start of finishing work.

As for the exterior decoration, there are many options: you can leave everything as is, so that the log house looks as natural as possible. But in this case, you should make sure that the timber you use looks attractive enough for this. Another option is to cover the walls using siding and then paint it. Lining and other similar materials are used in the same way.

Turnkey timber houses: examples, projects, prices and descriptions

Despite the simplicity of the technology, not every site owner wants to bother with building a house on their own. Therefore, there are special companies that are ready to build a turnkey house from timber, implementing one of the standard ones or your personal project. Let's consider what the best construction companies are ready to offer their clients.

Turnkey house made of profiled timber from the DomaTo company

The first standard project of a turnkey timber house, the price and quality of which will pleasantly please the customer, is called D1. It covers an area of ​​7x9 m and its total area is just over 125 m². Such dimensions allow the whole family to comfortably accommodate.

This house is made of timber with an attic, that is, in fact it has 1.5 floors. In addition, the plan includes a spacious terrace, as well as a spacious balcony on the top floor of the house. IN summer time year, this territory is simply irreplaceable for recreation.

Let's take a closer look at the technical characteristics and features of this structure:

• Initially, the project provides for a columnar foundation, but if desired, the company’s specialists are ready to individually calculate a strip or pile-screw foundation for your home;

• the strapping is made of 100x150 mm timber. Elements of the same size are placed as floor joists, in increments of 90-100 cm;
• for the walls of the first floor, profiled timber 95 (145 or 190) mm by 145 mm on jute fabric is used. Interior partitions made of timber 95x145 mm;
• the walls of the second floor are profiled timber 95x145 mm;
• The windows are provided with double glazing. All accessories are also included. Entrance door metal, without fittings;
• for rafters, boards of 40x100 or 150 mm are used, maintaining a pitch of no more than 90 cm;
• the roof of the house is ondulin (you can choose the color: brown, red or green);
• the height of both the first and second floors is 2.5 m. Lining is used for lining the ceilings;
• The staircase to the second floor is wooden and can be either single or double flight.

The exact cost of building a house made of turnkey timber will be calculated individually by the company’s specialists, taking into account many factors, including the individual wishes of clients. The only thing that can be stated with complete certainty is the cost of materials that this company offers:

• timber 100x150 mm – 744 rubles;
• timber 150x150 mm – 806 rub.;
• timber 150x200 mm – 898 rub.

We can say with confidence that the construction of turnkey houses from timber may not be the most cheap option, but more than justifies itself, since it saves you from having to do everything yourself.

Useful advice! Before you finally decide on the company that will build your house, it is advisable to talk with specialists from several companies. You can order free construction cost estimates from them, and then choose the most profitable one for yourself.

To summarize, we can say that a house made of timber is great idea, which is actually not that difficult to implement. Almost all the necessary work, if desired, can be carried out independently. You can also contact one of the companies that specializes in this issue and can quickly and efficiently build a turnkey house from laminated veneer lumber.

“Woodstyle” - a house made of laminated veneer lumber: photos, description, reviews, cost

You can consider in more detail the question of how much it costs to build a house from timber using this model as an example. The construction company advertises the cost from 1,303,170 rubles. At the same time, the total area of ​​the house is 118.37 m² (9.7x9.3 m).

So, given price houses made of laminated veneer lumber from the manufacturer "Kedr" includes the following types works:

• laying the foundation;
• construction of walls from laminated veneer lumber 2.7 m high. The assembly technology involves the use of wooden dowels, which are located at a distance of 1.5 m. In addition, a 5-mm flax-jute fabric is laid between the crowns. All surfaces must be treated protective composition;
• used for floors waterproofing material– hydroglass insulation;
• to cover between floors, beams of 50x200 mm are used;
• For attic floor use timber 50x150 mm;
• rafters – timber 50x200 mm. made from edged boards 25x100, the pitch of which is 25 cm. It is used as a roofing material.

Interesting! This company offers its clients interesting service– weekly photo reports on the work done by email. This allows you to observe the process without wasting time traveling to the construction site.

Turnkey one-story timber houses: project OD-7 8x12

As an example one-story house Let's consider the project proposed by the Domabrus company. The price of building a house from timber in this case directly depends on the thickness of the material used. Customers are offered three options to choose from:

• timber 100x150 mm – 720,000 rubles;
• timber 150x150 mm – 806,000 rubles;
• timber 200x150 mm – 900,000 rubles.

Initially, a support-column foundation is provided, however, it is possible to replace it with a pile-screw foundation for an additional fee. For tying, timber of natural humidity 150x150 mm is used for the 1st row and 150-100 mm for the 2nd row. The floor joists are made of 50x150 mm timber in increments of 60 to 70 cm.

The material used for the walls is timber of natural humidity 90x140 mm along with jute insulation, the thickness of which is 4 mm. For partitions, the same timber is used, but without insulation. The log house is assembled on wooden birch dowels.

For the ceiling, take a beam of 50x100 mm in increments of 60-70 cm, and then additionally hem Eurolining of category “B” and roll insulation, which provides the proper level of thermal insulation. Vapor barrier material laid on both sides. Usually "Nanoizol" or its analogues are used.

Rafters – timber 50x100 mm, located at a distance of 800 mm. “Ondulin” is used as a roofing material in one of three colors: brown, cherry or green. The 30-centimeter overhang is hemmed with clapboard.

The windows in the house are wooden, with double glazing, as well as all the necessary fittings. In addition, solid interior doors are also installed.

Useful advice! If you are in no hurry to move, you can order a house made of timber for shrinkage. In this case, the structure must stand for 6-12 months without finishing materials.

Finnish houses made of laminated veneer lumber: what is it and how do they differ from the rest

Having become interested in the question of how to build a house from timber, every reader will certainly come across the wording “ Finnish house from timber." Let's look at what it is and what advantages these buildings have.

These houses got their name thanks to one Finnish companies, who were engaged in the production of laminated veneer lumber of excellent quality. Thanks to the latest technologies, as well as considerable experience in this field, their products have won a leading position in the market, which was the reason for the appearance of this name.

What advantages do they have in comparison with their Russian counterparts and why do many prefer them? The answer is extremely simple - it all depends on the quality of the raw materials used. Of course, the market situation is constantly changing, and today many domestic companies are quite capable of competing with Finnish ones, but the reputation of the latter still keeps them at the forefront.

The price of a house made of timber, built according to Finnish technology, is determined by many factors and aspects. This includes the materials used, as well as the size and complexity of the structure. All this can be calculated in advance by drawing up a detailed project and estimate.

What secret does Finnish-made laminated timber keep? Historically, in the post-war years, Finnish producers abandoned the use of trees that grew on their own. For this purpose, areas throughout the country were specially planted. The same growth conditions and care did their job, and almost all the trees were different same size and shape, which significantly improved the quality of the laminated timber that was made from them.

Interesting! Today, Finnish houses have extremely little in common with Finland, and in fact this phrase practically means just profiled timber made using special technology.

It is important to understand that the price of building houses from timber of this type is almost never low, and usually exceeds Russian analogues at least 2 times. This is due to many factors, including careful product quality control, as well as our own unique manufacturing technology.

Rules for caring for a house made of timber: how to extend the life of a wooden house

Looking through the options for houses made of timber: photos, prices and characteristics, many wonder what needs to be done to make the structure last as long as possible. Let's consider the recommendations of experts on how to properly care for a wooden house and what can be done for each of its component parts:

1. The roof of a timber house requires additional protection from exposure to moisture, since it is this that leads to the destruction of the structure. To avoid this, external roof covering must be complete and of high quality, and technical inspection must be carried out at least 2 times a year. You also need to regularly clean the roof of dry leaves, moss, lichens, etc. Otherwise, moisture may accumulate there. It is extremely important to prevent scratches on the surface, since even seemingly minor defects can cause a serious reduction in the performance of the roof.
2. The walls of a house made of timber also require maintenance, which should be reflected in regular treatment with a protective composition that prevents the appearance of fungus and mold. Joints are considered the most problematic area, so more attention needs to be paid to their inspection and processing. It will also be extremely useful to treat the surface with fire retardants, which will prevent combustion and protect the house in the event of a fire.
3. Oddly enough, windows and window openings wooden house also require careful care. So, in order to prevent rotting processes, it is necessary to apply to them several times during the year. special compounds V next order: antiseptic, primer, water-dispersion paint.

If you regularly pay due attention to a wooden house, you can be sure that it will serve well for many years without succumbing to destructive impact external factors.

How to build a house from timber yourself: video instructions for beginners

Since the price of a turnkey prefabricated timber house is often quite high for buyers, many prefer to carry out the installation themselves. And in order to avoid common mistakes in this case, it is worth watching the training video. Building a house from timber is a task that is feasible for everyone. You just need to listen to some tips and recommendations.

Land owners are increasingly choosing to build houses from timber. Additional benefit This solution is that, with a strong desire, each owner can build a house from timber with his own hands. By building such a house with your own hands, you get a high-quality, durable, reliable and comfortable home. The actual technology for constructing such buildings is extremely simple and understandable. The only skills you will need for the job are experience in handling a gasoline or electric saw.

A house made of timber looks very beautiful. But in order for it to be reliable, at the construction stage the timber must be treated with special means.

What kind of wood can be used to build a log house?

Before you start building a house from timber with your own hands, you need to choose the highest quality and suitable material for work.

The main qualities of wood are strength and density. For some breeds, these indicators reach the level of most metals, so quite high demands are placed on houses made of timber with your own hands. The walls of the building must be durable and strong. In addition, they must provide good heat and sound insulation. But wood also has a number of disadvantages. The main ones are low fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformation, which is especially pronounced during the first few years after completion of construction.

Coniferous woods are best choice for building a house from timber. The material has a long service life and is resistant to rotting; it does not crack and does not exert a significant load on the foundation. It is important to remember that not only competent construction technology, but also the material chosen according to all the rules allows you to build a good house from timber with your own hands. So the wood should be as wear-resistant and dense as possible.

Solid or profiled timber?

The timber can be profiled or solid. To build a house, you can use both the first and second options. To choose a specific type of material, consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each.

Profiled timber for building a house requires the presence of a profile. It may have tenons and crown grooves. Such connections are installed along the entire length of the material, after which the surface is ground. The timber for building a house is supplied ready-made. The owner can only assemble the building from the received elements. Among the advantages of houses built from profiled timber are:

1. High resistance to deformation.
2. Relatively low construction costs.
3. Low complexity of construction work.

The material has a precise shape, allowing all construction activities to be carried out as quickly as possible. short terms and with the most high quality. Houses made from this material have a more interesting appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of profiled timber include the smooth surface of the walls. They don’t even need additional sheathing, because... they look great anyway. Walls made of this material are protected from rotting, because... melt and rainwater will not collect in them. The profile is calculated so that precipitation does not get into the crown joints.

After shrinking a house built from profiled timber, you will not need to waste time and effort on caulking. This material provides excellent wind protection and high thermal insulation, because... the crowns have connections of sufficient density for this.

A house made of solid timber has a low level of thermal insulation.

But profiled timber also has its drawbacks. Firstly, it does not tolerate negative atmospheric influences very well. Secondly, the material supports combustion. In order to increase bio- and fire-retardant properties, wood must be treated with special impregnations.

The natural moisture of the material leads to cracks appearing on the timber during the warm season. Therefore, it is best to immediately look for a material whose moisture content has been reduced to at least 20% by chamber drying. The thickness of the walls of a house made of profiled timber will not be enough for comfortable use. It will be necessary to perform additional external insulation. Once construction is completed, it will not be possible to make any additions or change the layout.

Study the features of solid timber. Despite the fact that it does not have the most presentable appearance, the material is still quite widely used in construction. The main advantage is the relatively low cost. When preparing wood, its natural moisture content is preserved, which eliminates the need for additional measures and reduces the duration of the preparatory stage.

Solid timber can be purchased at any specialized market. You can choose exactly what you need without any problems. On average, it takes a week from order to delivery to the construction site. The simplicity and speed of production of the material allowed us to reduce the time so much. Another big advantage of using solid timber to build a house is that there is no need to use special equipment.

But it also has its drawbacks. These include:

1. Higher costs for finishing work. To obtain a beautiful and complete appearance of the building, it must be covered with siding or clapboard.
2. When choosing timber you need to be extremely careful, because... Unscrupulous sellers offer bad timber.
3. Fungus may begin to develop on the material. The reason is natural humidity and failure to undergo special drying. You, of course, can treat the timber with special impregnations to destroy and prevent the return of the fungus, but this will require spending additional money and time.
4. The inter-crown seams are blown out very strongly. A house made of solid timber is characterized by a lower level of thermal insulation.
5. After shrinking, the wood cracks. To prevent such damage, the walls have to be sheathed on both sides.

Preparation of materials, tools and project

After you decide on suitable look timber, proceed to purchasing materials, collecting tools and drawing up a project. If you wish, you can purchase the material in ready-made form. All bars will be cut to your size. The material will already have grooves, and all you have to do is lay out the building like a construction set.

If you want to save money, you can prepare it yourself. If you choose this method, pay attention to the following factors:

1. The wood must be healthy.
2. Through and large cracks are strictly unacceptable.
3. The wood should not show any signs of beetle damage.
4. Before use, the material must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

The work of building a house from timber will require the use of a whole set of tools, namely:

1. Gasoline saw. An electric one will do instead.
2. Electric drills.
3. Level.
4. Measuring tape.
5. Hammer.
6. Axe.
7. Nails, screws, jute.
8. Electric screwdriver.
9. Hammer.

After preparing the materials and tools, start drawing up a project for a house made of timber. During this process, you need to accurately calculate all the necessary calculations. You can create a project yourself, there is nothing complicated about it. If you wish, you can contact a specialized construction company. The company’s specialist will make the project in compliance with all rules, taking into account seismic resistance and other important factors.

What should be the foundation of a log house?

Construction of a strip foundation.

Having prepared or received a custom project, proceed to arranging the foundation. A house made of timber must be built on the basis of sufficient reliability and strength.

When choosing the type of foundation, consider the following parameters:

1. Main characteristics of the soil on the site.
2. Estimated load on the foundation.
3. Design features.

A house made of timber can be built on concrete or wooden base. Most often, a concrete foundation is poured, a brick plinth is laid on it, and the construction of timber walls begins on top of this structure. If you want to have completely wooden building, you can make the base out of wood.

A timber house can be built on:

1. Deep foundation.
2. Shallow foundation.
3. Belt type support.
4. Columnar base.

In the vast majority of cases, a shallow or strip foundation is prepared for a house made of timber. A laying depth of about 50-70 cm will be sufficient.

Step-by-step instructions for building walls

After arranging the foundation, proceed to laying the timber. The most important thing is to decide optimal technology assemblies. The timber walls are laid out in rows. Every new layer stacked on top of the previous one until a wall of the required height is obtained.

The bars have special grooves, which ensure a tight fit of the logs to each other. The grooves are insulated with special thermal insulation. In order to increase the strength of the walls, it is imperative to use spikes to connect the beams.

A simplified version involves the use of untreated pine timber. The bars themselves weigh quite little, so you don’t even have to call in special lifting equipment for construction.

In progress self-construction For walls made of timber, it is important to take into account a number of basic requirements. First, all seams must be caulked. This will prevent the wind from blowing through the walls. Secondly, the walls themselves are treated with special impregnations to increase fire resistance and strength.

Roof, floor and finishing installation

Quite often, developers try to save money on building a house from timber. And they do this with the help of a roof, using some cheap materials, for example, ondulin. But saving on material when installing a roof is categorically not recommended. This part of the house may have various options execution, it all depends on the rafters and roofing systems. It is recommended to equip each area using boards of different sizes. For example, rafters are assembled from 150x40 mm boards, and 100x40 mm material is used to install braces and racks.

When arranging a floor and choosing a floor covering, they are also guided primarily by personal preferences. The only mandatory point is waterproofing the ceiling and floor. In particular, you need to carefully approach the issue of waterproofing basements and basements. The floor is waterproofed before screeding or leveling. In a wooden house you can use:

1. Roll waterproofing.
2. Coating materials.
3. Penetrating moisture protection.
4. Jellied compositions.

Plinths and basements can be waterproofed with your own hands without any problems. There will be no difficulties when treating the floors of other parts of the house. Choose the material that is most suitable for you and begin installing it in accordance with the technology.

Floor is one of the main components of the interior of a home. The aesthetics of the interior design directly depends on its design. Therefore, the choice of coating also needs to be approached competently. On modern market a large assortment is presented floor coverings, namely:

1. Wood based coatings. This category includes parquet boards and parquet.
2. Cork covering.
3. Laminated panels.
4. Linoleum.
5. Floor tiles.
6. Carpets of various types.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For wooden floor Wood-based coatings are best suited: parquet and laminate are the most best option, this material is simple and easy to install.

As for more modern materials, then you won’t have any problems with their installation. Focus on your taste preferences and available budget.

Finally, installation work is completed interior doors, partitions and window frames. The subfloor is laid, then the selected insulation, the finishing component of the floor and the finishing coating are installed. The ceiling is being finished. At this stage, it is necessary to equip water supply, heating, sewerage and energy systems.

Exterior decoration is selected by the owner independently. If desired, the house can be left without any external decoration if the appearance and quality source material allow you to do this. If you want to get a different look, you can paint the house, cover it with siding, clapboard, or trim it with other available materials.

It is in this sequence that the construction of a house made of timber is carried out. By following the technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable structure without involving third-party specialists. Good luck!

Technology for assembling a log frame for a house or bathhouse

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or, better yet, both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is placed on spacers made of boards.

Next to the stack will be equipped workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads into the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the timber with a chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on upper crown log house The timber is moved along the slopes using a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log frame from timber with a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.

Scaffolding is constructed to install the upper rims of the log house and the roof.

Three-tier scaffolding on the gable of the house. 1 — extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped scaffolding stand of the first tier on side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — central racks; 5 — cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. The racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of constructing the roof (attic), on the facades where the installation of pediments is necessary, scaffolding has to be made in three tiers. To construct scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used. mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

Working from scaffolding is more convenient, faster and safer than from ladders - don’t forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house, which indicates: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly diagram is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking corner joints of timber and joints of parts of longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. A And WITH- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- internal wall made of timber - partition; 1 - joints of beams.

For the house shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams ranging in length from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam standard length 6 meters and extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, installation begins in a similar order, but on the right.

The parts of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one beam of a standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in external walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are made by making vertical cuts “into the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The timber in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root tenon (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark tenons, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of lumber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is using templates. The template is placed on the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It’s more convenient, faster to mark and it will be fewer errors, if the template completely follows the contour of the part and has the same length as the part being marked. I placed the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, we will need to make seven templates, corresponding to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored wall parts.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's look at how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the beams of the longitudinal walls. 4 — groove for the main tenon; 5 - groove for tenon interior wall; 6 - sample; 7 - finishing beam.

The picture above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

The templates are the same at first glance, but differ in that the grooves, item 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places of the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the parts of the extensions. To do this, on the templates at points b And With drilled through holes, and at points A And d cuts are made.

To mark the extension, the template is placed on the beam and points are made on the surface of the workpiece through holes and cuts.

Remember this technique when making holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed inch boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the connection “into the floor of the tree”. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to mark them out)
hatch) are cut with a chain saw.

How to mark parts with spikes? Obviously, the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, which means they must match each other in size and location. In a part with a tenon, a tenon is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with inter-crown insulation.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

The technical conditions (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviations in the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard sizes timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and length is 6 meters, then the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each beam in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

The variation in sizes must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the beams are different in width and length?

b — minimum width timber; delta b- the difference between a narrow and wide beam.

Obviously, using timber of different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall flat - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make the outside wall of the house smooth, then All beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of “delta b"(the difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment along the outer edge leads to an increase in gaps in the corner joint of the beams (see figure).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the “steps” from the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The outside of the wall is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the timber, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without cladding. Corner connections the beams are more dense and “warm”.

How and with what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. The dowels are placed at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is secured with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the beam.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the beams of the crowns, option a in the picture.

The upper ends of dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log house shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the timber and will lift the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason Driven pins cannot be made from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the crown beams from moving when the log house shrinks, even if the dowel is buried into the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter steel hammer-in dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel dowels with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden dowels, are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

When the dowel fits tightly into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 mm Convenient to cut from round cuttings for tools. Such cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from regular board"inch" dowels square section 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel, made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood, become crushed when hammered in, the wood becomes compacted, ensuring a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in timber for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free of chips.

For drilling holes in timber that are deep enough and large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The stop, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole from chips, grinds in and then easily comes out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a beam that is already installed on the wall in the design position on interventional insulation. But here it's usual A problem arises - the crown gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material simply wrap around the drill bit and clamp it.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily secured from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is moved from the wall and inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites the gasket is cut out sharp knife . Then, the removed beam is put back in place, this time on the gasket, and secured with dowels.

Drilling holes in timber laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can “bite”, a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from crooked timber

Some of the timber delivered to the construction site may be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or bathhouse. It is recommended to cut beams with curvature into smaller pieces and use them in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam into a wall with its convexity up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The crooked beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

The curved beam is drilled, aligning it with the straight beam at the drilling points. After laying the inter-crown insulation, the curved beam is fixed with dowels at one end and, when unbent, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

Unbending the beam does not require much effort. A lever and bracket will help make work easier

Inter-crown gasket - insulation, sealant

For cold protection, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or flax tow were used for this. Currently, special cushioning materials based on flax wool or flax jute are available for sale. The material is sold in the form of a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and secured with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should be 1-2 inches from the outer edge of the beam. cm., otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after the frame shrinks, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this option we have less consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking joints is quite labor-intensive and tedious. It is better to immediately lay a thicker sealant, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need to caulk horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

During the construction of a house or bathhouse, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of the log frame. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• The height of corners and walls.
• Horizontality of the crowns and upper edges of the timber.
• Straightness of walls.
• The quality of installation of inter-crown insulation.

For control of vertical angles The following method is used.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - lower trim; 2 - crowns; 3 — control lines; 4 - base.

On each side of the crown, a vertical line is drawn at the same distance from the corner edge.

At correct installation For crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontality of crowns and top faces timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be especially carefully and constantly checked. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the timber in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the rims in the sagging corners. Sometimes it helps if you tap a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the installation of inter-crown insulation is checked visually by inspecting the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown they begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of ​​openings has its own characteristics.

A - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. V — diagram of timber cutting, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - option for constructing an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening bars, item 7. d - option with installation of decks in the opening, item 6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for forming openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" in the picture. The opening is made in draft, only preparations are made to create an opening. The opening is not prepared for the installation of doors and windows immediately when assembling the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the frame has shrunk.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly work of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening to fasten the partition to the log house, item 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

During the shrinkage of the log house, the piers can “lead” inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - " d"in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, install decks (windows) in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, item 6 in the figure. The tenon of the wall beam fits into the groove. In this way, the partition beam is fixed from displacement. In this option, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (jambs) traditionally serve not only to connect timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes and window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed and chamfered.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a vertical frame board with a tenon strip, fits into the groove of the wall beam; 3 — plastic window frame; 4 — sealing tape PSUL

IN modern conditions, during installation plastic windows and the installation of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (jambs) can be omitted. The beams in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which secures the pier beams from displacement.

The length of the deck (plug) or slats should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for home, bathhouse in your city

How to properly install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in a rough version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting out the opening to the desired size. To do this, a lath is filled along the edge of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the beams are sawed off along the edge of the lath with a chain saw.

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rack; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — interventional insulation; 8 — shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then, using a circular saw, tenons are cut out at the ends of the wall beams (wall). The deck, pos. 11, is placed on the tenons, pos. 10, with a groove. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. This way the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window frame is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window box be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

An expansion gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Openings are prepared in the same way and doors are inserted into the walls made of timber.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) floor.

Can be a structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the structure of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology for installing a log house from construction timber.